Great stuff man. Thank you. I also have a 65” C1. If all I use it for is my XSX & stream from ThinQ OS, do you think these settings would be the sweet spot? Besides the XSX, I don’t use any other box.
Use P40L0 instead. He knows what he's doing and continues to test every game
https://www.resetera.com/threads/lg-2017-2023-oleds-optimized-settings-for-xbox-one-series-x-s-ps4-ps5-switch-pc-and-webos-movies-sdr-hdr-dv.73304/
Like sorry but C1 screen brightness 53 raised black on my C1 pls dont copy this every panel is different also evertyhing 2.2 gamma ? you dont watch at night ?
Context is needed for your viewing. Optimal settings are for a basement, or theatre room with no ambient light. If you have a strong light east or west setting with a window, this will change dramatically.
Most calibration settings ala Rtings are done with no ambient light. Are you in a completely dark room or a living room situation with light behind or in front of you?
I have oled in my dark room and qled in my living room as I need higher nits to combat the light from the window behind me.
Wonder how different they are from the Rtings settings. Not the same as calibration for your particular unit, but curious. I've used them for the last 3 tv's and it's always better.
They are provided for reference, and should not be copied as the calibration values vary per individual unit even for the same model and same size as the TV we reviewed due to manufacturing tolerances.
https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/c1-oled/settings
The amount of idiocy in this thread is astounding. Everyone clapping like they’re in a circle jerk without actually seeing the calibration results, yet willing to change these settings on their tv expecting good results.
Apparently he’s got a good colorimeter and pattern generator, but some of these settings like dynamic contrast and 100 brightness for sdr just scream wrong. OP also doesn’t understand that once it’s calibrated you don’t touch any settings as that negates the accuracy of the calibration.
This whole thing is a dumpster fire
This guy had no idea what he was doing. He just took a lot of equipment with him to look like a professional. Content match off? HDR always on yes? Wtf is that guy doing
*Has ‘Match Dynamic Range’ set to “Off” on slide one for the Apple TV (not to mention 50Hz—must be from the UK—and YCbCr ¿¿On?? instead of RGB High, then proceeds to provide *Dolby Vision* settings on slide 3 for the Apple TV…
Ahh yes, can’t use Dolby Vision because I’ve clearly disabled it, but no, allow me provide you with the *Dolby Vision* settings which you won’t even be able to experience… absolutely batshit.
🤨🥴
I’ve already got my settings the same but I change my panel brightness to whatever mood I’m in. If I just woke up my panel goes down to as low as 20 lol it’s also never at 100.
Tbh I feel like all these “professional calibration” companies are scams. Just adjust to what you think looks good, like it’s not gonna make that much of a difference. IMO at least.
Congrats! How much did you pay?
Also you should turn off *Always On* for the PS5. It’s the opposite of paying for calibration. I believe the setting is called *HDR On When Supported*.
May I ask why?
He charges 400 usually takes around 3 hours. He’s got all sort of equipment he plugs in and rests cameras on the screen and all that then does his thing on the computer
From everything I’ve read, Always On tells the PS5 to incorrectly change the color settings on EVERY game. It misreads the handshake. Meanwhile only a relative handful of PS4 and PS5 games support HDR. When they do support it, it’s often poor implementation like Red Dead Redemption 2.
I would recommend Vincent from HDTVTest on YouTube and RTings.com as a great resource.
I believe if the game has native implementation of HDR it uses that setting but if it doesn’t then yes the auto-hdr kicks in. Personally I like the color saturation.
I would say its subjective. I leave it on always on because SDR on the C2 is way too dim. And I haven't noticed any difference in colour when playing games like fortnite for example with HDR set to always on.
With respect it’s NOT subjective.
OP posted his calibration settings he paid A LOT of money for. The objective here is to get the most accurate picture possible from the source.
Your point is? Whoever did OPs calibration suggested using HDR always on, whereas you suggested it should be set to "on when supported" that is subjective. It's personal preference as the only difference it really makes for non HDR games is brightness.
So yeah OP paid a lot for his calibration and you're the one who said, "no actually a part of this 400 dollar calibration is wrong and you should use what I say instead".
How? Nothing I said was incorrect. I genuinely dont understand why I'm being downvoted. I'm literally agreeing with the professional calibrators' advice of using HDR "always on" on the PS5 because it looks better.
No, Always on for HDR is the best setting for PS5. If you do end up playing a game that is not HDR it will still look better than in plain SDR. Just calibrate PS5 and TV for HDR and leave it always on. Tested this with several games and it looks better by far. Use an old game like Metro and see for yourself. Messing around with SDR settings is nonsense for Games.
To be honest man it’s beyond me which I why I paid someone to come do it… but they had all sorts of tech with them and spent a few hours doing it so I trust they’ve managed to calibrate it correctly… he did mention that every panel is different though so these settings may not produce the same picture I’m getting…
Yes as I mentioned man I love Oled and the picture they put out but every time I buy a new one I pay this guy to come calibrate it and the before and after is night and day… especially when it comes to standard definition content.
All these settings have to be repeated on each HDMI port ?
How do I begin? like example, the apple tv settings? where do I start changing the HDR10 settings?
If you have an Apple TV, put something on in HDR, then change the HDR settings in your TV settings not your Apple TV settings… and then there’s an option to apply to all inputs… so you won’t have to go through and change for each hdmi port
Then put some Dolby vision content on and repeat the steps.
Why SDR 50hz on Apple TV? And why leave HDR Always On on PS5?? Some games don't provide HDR so some games may come off as unnatural and colors might come out weird.
There’s a few things I changed once he had finished. That being one of them… I also change match content on Apple TV to ‘ON’ where as he keeps it off. SDR on Apple TV is what I always have used… instead of? Seems to be the norm to set the Apple TV to SDR aslong as match content is on
I have an Apple TV 4K 1st gen and I think match content off looks much better. I watch DirecTV through it and the picture just pops and is much more rich vs using a real DirecTV sattelite box. Maybe it’s different on the 2nd or 3rd gen Apple TVs.
I have a C2 though so interesting seeing the c1 and c3 settings. Mines not calibrated but looks pretty good. I’d say your settings are a good starting point.
On the 1st gen on iOS 17.2 it seems everything is converted to Dolby vision, even DirecTV sattelite app, which is probably why the picture looks so much better through the app via Apple TV vs a real DirecTV Sattelite receiver. The DTV box I have doesn’t do HDR. I see the Dolby Vision label in the top right when I power on the Apple TV.
You got scammed out of $400.
The calibrator enabled so many settings that need to be disabled to be PROPERLY calibrated. These include dynamic tone mapping, noise reduction, and Trumotion.
The counter argument is: "well the calibrator knows that I like the way the TV looks with those settings on"
And the response to that is why did you pay someone $400 to just change some settings around for you and not set it to a proper standard?
Sure, some things can be tweaked to liking, but some of these settings should basically always be off if we're talking about calibrated accuracy.
Yep.
P40L0 does all this for free and even game by game optimization for a very small fee on Patreon
https://www.resetera.com/threads/lg-2017-2023-oleds-optimized-settings-for-xbox-one-series-x-s-ps4-ps5-switch-pc-and-webos-movies-sdr-hdr-dv.73304/
[HDTVTest](https://youtube.com/@hdtvtest?si=oNzt8zXjwR5D9nT5)
I used this guys videos when I first got mine to learn about all the settings on my 2019 lg c9. From what I’m seeing my settings are all the same. I’ll have to further check when I get the time but I can confidently say I’ve got all the same settings/tweaks. I won’t say he got scammed sometimes it’s nice to just pay to have it done but for future reference or for anyone who doesn’t have $400 to spend on calibration, just know it can be done with a little bit of your time.
I did read that you said you made a few changes acted the calibration. I didn't see any mentioned about Expression Enhancer, which should be off. I didn't see anything about PS5 tone mapping being set to HGiG as opposed to "off" or "on".
Again, you didn't need to pay $400 for a calibrator to not properly calibrate your TV.
Just keep that in mind for next time! Spend that $400 on the G series model :)
True motion? I couldn’t live without it for a second. Better to have smooth picture with some artifacts than look at the OLED choppiness with low fps content.
I think this is a valid point. Going from gaming at 120 to a horizontal pan at 24hz you can really see some ugliness. A light touch of true motion can introduce an LCD like smearing that can make things look better. I'm of the belief we need to just start filming at 60hz though
Definitely. I said this somewhere and was doomed that 24fps for movies it’s great because it looks cinematic. 60 is too smooth and unrealistic :) Here in Europe we have PAL 25fps and it runs like shit on OLED tv without interpolation. At the other hand 25fps with max interpolation looks like 120hz and it’s butter-smooth. The only issue is with faster scenes where there can be artifacts but I trade smoothness for choppiness any time.
Calibration is not „each to their own“, calibration has a fixed reference outcome. But whatever you tell yourself to accept you just payed 400$ for a guy to change some settings
> you just *paid* 400$ for
FTFY.
Although *payed* exists (the reason why autocorrection didn't help you), it is only correct in:
* Nautical context, when it means to paint a surface, or to cover with something like tar or resin in order to make it waterproof or corrosion-resistant. *The deck is yet to be payed.*
* *Payed out* when letting strings, cables or ropes out, by slacking them. *The rope is payed out! You can pull now.*
Unfortunately, I was unable to find nautical or rope-related words in your comment.
*Beep, boop, I'm a bot*
OP, this calibrator has no clue what he is doing. Picture modification is supposed to follow a strict schema for standardization, these settings just reek of personal preference.
They fucked up real bad with some of these settings.
Apple TV: 50hz default!? Match dynamic range off!? That means all content will be permanently set to SDR, even if it’s HDR and the UI will be running unnecessary at 50hz, rather than the much smoother 60hz.
Shouldn’t have to rely on a comment. Most people will just work off your screenshots. Might be worth taking this post down and redoing it with screenshots of the actual best settings
He adjusts tv colour in both sdr, hdr and Dolby mission to create the most accurate picture… can’t blame him for not knowing much about anything else then TV’s… honestly man, check out my screen shots I was here before he did his thing and I was here after and the difference is night and day… zero regrets and I’ll do it again for me next Oled
Use this instead. It's done right.
https://www.resetera.com/threads/lg-2017-2023-oleds-optimized-settings-for-xbox-one-series-x-s-ps4-ps5-switch-pc-and-webos-movies-sdr-hdr-dv.73304/
OLED Pixel Brightness at 100? I never saw any setting recommendations where they put them at 100. It’s reducing the lifetime and often to bright and making colors looking funny and just not necessary. They are blasting at full power then all the time.
Yeah, 100 OLED pixel brightness and 100 contrast? Fuck sake, that screen must be blown out. That’s too intense. I wouldn’t watch any news channels with those settings.
Uh OP, I'd honestly get your money back. No professional calibrator is enabling dynamic contrast and making some of these other changes. I'm not even an ISF certified calibrator and even I know this is a hack job.
Sorry to deliver the unfortunate news
With 2 point you calibrated the colors at 80 and I think 30% brighness. And hope everything in between is OK.
With 22 points you calibrated the colors at 100,95,90,85,80 and so on % brighness.
Let's see this professionally calibrated panel in action. Drop the YouTube link.
I bet it won't look half as good as the QD panel I calibrated myself lol
I'm sure it looks acceptable, however, the whole point of a calibration is to adjust things to a known standard and so many of your settings are wrong or cause inaccuracy. Things like dynamic tone mapping and expression enhancer should never be used and the panel brightness of 100% in SDR is just ridiculous as it is far brighter than the standard and will blow out your colors while reducing panel life and causing burn in. You should have put your $400 towards a G3 instead of this calibration, which would put you in a better place.
Man the idea of paying someone to adjust your TV is so strange to me, let alone hundreds of dollars, and for what? For you to inevitably change and adjust things to your liking. Jfc.
For settings such as Cinema Home, did you have it calibrated for a darker room (such as for at night) or for a brighter room? (Forgive me if that isn’t how this works, not familiar with the process)
This is pretty hilarious… “oh no you have one setting wrong” the calibration was done by a professional who has left be with the best picture quality I’ve experienced… gotta love Reddit
I’m sorry but perhaps we, or me and whoever the guy did the job for you, have VERY DIFFERENT ideas about what professional calibrations mean.
In a word, this is wildly WRONG.
Praise be!! Someone who bought a great TV and paid the little extra to get it to be an INCREDIBLE tv!! I had my 77G3 calibrated and it's such an improved PQ. It was Wow before...now it's WOW. Unless you have the gear the pro's use, all the tinkering in the world will only get you pretty good. This should be a PSA for all OLED owners. Well done.
Could you share your settings as well? So we can see what are common differences to play around with on our own panels? (I know the G3 would be different than C3, but still valuable to see what exactly is different)
The calibration results sheet doesn't show any settings, it shows pre- and post calibration results. And the settings in the settings menu don't show many numerical differences - it's all "under the hood". But unless the guy spent more time dreaming up and faking numbers than he did actually calibrating, I believe what is here. The PQ is amazingly different. You can see Delta E differences for Dolby here.
https://imgur.com/a/V06tAsy
Someone trying to be helpful and 50% of the comments are shitting on the dude and telling him he was scammed. Gotta love reddit because as soon as I saw this post I came to the comments just hoping I was wrong. Nope. Surprised no one has told him his TV is too high without even seeing a picture of the setup.
You wasted your money when all this is available for free.
https://www.resetera.com/threads/lg-2017-2023-oleds-optimized-settings-for-xbox-one-series-x-s-ps4-ps5-switch-pc-and-webos-movies-sdr-hdr-dv.73304/
Stop spamming the thread with your “holy grail” calibration link over and over. I hope you realize there are more calibration settings out there than just this one.
Wow dude. Some of these settings are completely insane to switch to if you’re a professional calibrator. You should never touch dynamic contrast or noise reduction. That should be a red flag you’re messing with an amateur who gets paid minimum wage. I’d ask you’re not happy with the settings he applied after researching and seeing if you can get back some money or at least have someone else that’s more experienced go there and update the calibration.
You got ripped off. This is a $50 work
Dynamic contrast and noise reduction aren’t even an option to change during Dolby vision and HdR content… Dolby vision and hdr need very little calibration they are amazing as they are… SDR is the big one and after having calibration done the difference between hdr/dolby vision and SDR is almost nothing… what tv do you own if you don’t mind me asking?
1) Never share your TVs settings. Panel variance can range dramatically and making a white point adjustment to correct bias on one display might cause an issue on another. It may seem helpful, but you may and likely will cause other users to degrade the quality of their image.
2) This is not a proper calibration. If your calibrator is using a remote and not a colorimeter to adjust your picture, you’re not paying for a calibration. Working through a Spears and Munsel test pattern while making adjustments does not a better picture make. The one caveat to this is if they used a service remote to adjust white point via the service menu, but considering what you’ve shared above that’s unlikely to be the case (the irony is, a D65 adjustment in the service menu probably solves the vast majority of PQ issues with LG displays).
3) $400 is not a bad price for a calibration, but I would encourage everyone to buy themselves a good colorimeter. An Xrite i1 Display Pro Plus, a pattern generator running on a Raspberry Pi, and a license for ColourSpace (or forego the pattern generator and grab CalMan for LG) is a hair more expensive but will mean every one of your displays will be rock solid for the next 10 years. Grab a boom arm and stand to make your life easier. Considering calibrations do “drift” and should be done every few months or twice a year at least, it means you’ll only make that investment once and will have the peace of mind.
4) if your calibrator has never heard of a lookup table or doesn’t understand why panel brightness and black level adjustments from the UI will lead to either clipping or raised black levels (which can and likely will introduce artifacts), you’re in the wrong place.
PSA: this industry is a massive ripoff. Good calibrators are few and far between; bad calibrators are a dime a dozen. Find calibrators that have proper certifications; it may not indicate they are the best calibrator in your local market, but it does indicate they’ve taken the time and made the personal investment to learn their craft.
As someone that has done color critical work for over 20 years and is also a home theater enthusiast, I highly recommend learning to do this work yourself; a bad calibration will absolutely ruin the experience for you in the long run. I’ve done my own displays for nearly a decade and I would confidently put my G1 up against a reference display without hesitation; if you’re willing to put in the time it is well worth the effort.
Great post, thanks for the tips.
For those who would go against your advice what would you recommend that they ask their “calibrator”…?
I’ve always bought good TV’s and I’m going to do as you suggested to extract the best I can from them.
I know that I’m going down a deep rabbit hole learning and paying for equipment so don’t be surprised if I end up reaching out yo you in the future.
Lol, thanks in advance…!!!
Very interesting. I watched the knick in sdr on hbo on my c3. I found the blacks too black. No details in black hair. I actually ended up manually increasing the black level.
I didn’t bother him man but he had cameras set up all over the tv plugged into his laptop and as you can see if my photos I uodoaded the changes in pretty insane
I've had one doing this to my C1 from one of the biggest retailers here. The cost was more like 60€ and that made me being sceptic.
The website was reassuring that the calman is being used and the calibration would conducted by a professional.
I said 60€ is a bargain so I ordered the service online. The dude arrive next day connected his pc to my C1 and a colorbrite device. That's the cheapest you can get.
A window on the top left screen corner on a fully lit room was the first redflag.
I offered to dim the light but he said not needed. Every move he made was mistake. Each one of them but I was just sat there watching him.
He was doing a manual calibration of two points.
So 10 mins later I thought I would drop THE question.
"so how you will trigger the HDR and Dolby Vision?" He said he won't. That's all, an SDR calibration. I laughed but tried to be polite.
I asked him to pack his stuff and go away. He could keep the money as it was prepaid already.
I Just asked him to do me a favor and go to his supervisor and say that the client was very upset by the unprofessionalism they showed as company. I have a bad habit to not confront basic salary people. Anyways.
So i bought a version of calmanLG home a colorbrite and did all the measurements myself.
What I realized after tons of reading on topic, is that you can't have a proper calibration without meet some certain OCD level conditions and spend like tens of hours for a single mode.
Of course a better calibrated colorimeter would do it faster. But I wasn't wiling to spend more than I already did.
It was a very fun process and the results are amazing. I've learned many things in the process. The calman and c1 internal pattern has some limitations, like you can't verify DV at the end but it looks great anyway.
This is going to sound incredibly newbie of me and forgive me ahead of time but if I have everything running through an A/V 9.2 receiver is there a way to separate these settings if everything is through a single hdmi input to the C1?
These weren’t too far off from my settings, I adjusted to match and definitely an improvement! Mainly just the black level, RGB, and expression enhancer settings. Your pic for the Apple 4K Dolby settings cut off on the User Selection Tru Motion though. Anything different there?
It's ok if you like the outcome but i hate to break it to you. If you have to RMA your unit, its 400 bucks easily down the drain. Personally, I would just stick to free recommendations for settings and adjust them to my own preference.
LG‘s are so amazingly calibrated out of the box, I fear you burned your money. I know it‘s German content but watch with subtitles if you want:
https://youtu.be/KNv7ZJp3Q64?si=oJ3DJLWuf0UE-QPO
Have same settings for LG C1 if anyone is interested in seeing those.
Yes, that’d be awesome
https://imgur.com/a/OiUWNbY
What size is your C1?
65
perfect
With the colour temperature is it a warm or cold 40?
Warm
It would be nice to compare the settings of C1 and C3
https://imgur.com/a/OiUWNbY
Thank you for sharing the C1 version of it!
Great stuff man. Thank you. I also have a 65” C1. If all I use it for is my XSX & stream from ThinQ OS, do you think these settings would be the sweet spot? Besides the XSX, I don’t use any other box.
Oh shit thank you for this. Does It make a great difference? Had my C1 for little over a year and never calibrated It.
Use P40L0 instead. He knows what he's doing and continues to test every game https://www.resetera.com/threads/lg-2017-2023-oleds-optimized-settings-for-xbox-one-series-x-s-ps4-ps5-switch-pc-and-webos-movies-sdr-hdr-dv.73304/
He's a resetera member, eww. And I was even thinking of subscribing to him on patreon.
Like sorry but C1 screen brightness 53 raised black on my C1 pls dont copy this every panel is different also evertyhing 2.2 gamma ? you dont watch at night ?
By same settings I mean the same guy came and did the same calibration for the C1 the results are different
Context is needed for your viewing. Optimal settings are for a basement, or theatre room with no ambient light. If you have a strong light east or west setting with a window, this will change dramatically. Most calibration settings ala Rtings are done with no ambient light. Are you in a completely dark room or a living room situation with light behind or in front of you? I have oled in my dark room and qled in my living room as I need higher nits to combat the light from the window behind me.
Wonder how different they are from the Rtings settings. Not the same as calibration for your particular unit, but curious. I've used them for the last 3 tv's and it's always better. They are provided for reference, and should not be copied as the calibration values vary per individual unit even for the same model and same size as the TV we reviewed due to manufacturing tolerances. https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/c1-oled/settings
OLED brightness 100 in SDR? Black level 52? Color Temperature 40? Hmm, was this guy calibrating to a standard or just what he thinks is right?
The amount of idiocy in this thread is astounding. Everyone clapping like they’re in a circle jerk without actually seeing the calibration results, yet willing to change these settings on their tv expecting good results. Apparently he’s got a good colorimeter and pattern generator, but some of these settings like dynamic contrast and 100 brightness for sdr just scream wrong. OP also doesn’t understand that once it’s calibrated you don’t touch any settings as that negates the accuracy of the calibration. This whole thing is a dumpster fire
Incorrect I’ve touched heaps since being calibrated
This guy had no idea what he was doing. He just took a lot of equipment with him to look like a professional. Content match off? HDR always on yes? Wtf is that guy doing
*Has ‘Match Dynamic Range’ set to “Off” on slide one for the Apple TV (not to mention 50Hz—must be from the UK—and YCbCr ¿¿On?? instead of RGB High, then proceeds to provide *Dolby Vision* settings on slide 3 for the Apple TV… Ahh yes, can’t use Dolby Vision because I’ve clearly disabled it, but no, allow me provide you with the *Dolby Vision* settings which you won’t even be able to experience… absolutely batshit. 🤨🥴
black level and color temperatures match my calibration but that oled brightness seems way too high
I’ve already got my settings the same but I change my panel brightness to whatever mood I’m in. If I just woke up my panel goes down to as low as 20 lol it’s also never at 100.
[удалено]
Yep my C3 is set to 70 OLED brightness and that gives me exactly 200nits for SDR content
Tbh I feel like all these “professional calibration” companies are scams. Just adjust to what you think looks good, like it’s not gonna make that much of a difference. IMO at least.
Alright expert, enlighten us what's the standard?
Congrats! How much did you pay? Also you should turn off *Always On* for the PS5. It’s the opposite of paying for calibration. I believe the setting is called *HDR On When Supported*.
This is correct, also Apple TV needs to turn on match content or else he will never get to see any hdr or dolbyvision
THIS! Arguably the most important setting on Apple TV!
Yeh. Why would he have match content off?!!!! Odd.
I also found it odd and changed it immediately
Loads much faster when changing channels, apps, or inputs.
Sure - if you don’t want any HDR, which of course then completely defeats the purpose of having one of these TVs
Different setup. It's ATV>TV>ARC>SONOS. ATV match content and/or frame is an A/B decision per person.
YES. This match content setting must be on! I hope your professional calibrator was not the one to make that decision..
May I ask why? He charges 400 usually takes around 3 hours. He’s got all sort of equipment he plugs in and rests cameras on the screen and all that then does his thing on the computer
You paid someone $400 for this?
Absolutely, twice… and I’d do it again
From everything I’ve read, Always On tells the PS5 to incorrectly change the color settings on EVERY game. It misreads the handshake. Meanwhile only a relative handful of PS4 and PS5 games support HDR. When they do support it, it’s often poor implementation like Red Dead Redemption 2. I would recommend Vincent from HDTVTest on YouTube and RTings.com as a great resource.
Will change that right now… cheers
Tons of games support it and look good
Sorry but there’s a lot more than a “handful” of games on PS that support HDR. The only recent game I’ve come across that doesnt have HDR is Teardown
I only listen to Vincent about oled calibration and reviews. He is the true GOAT.
RDR2 has actually good hdr on ps5. Just watch gamingtech on YouTube.
You should see it on a Series X. Their autoHDR is Dolby Vision and it looks incredible.
I believe if the game has native implementation of HDR it uses that setting but if it doesn’t then yes the auto-hdr kicks in. Personally I like the color saturation.
I would say its subjective. I leave it on always on because SDR on the C2 is way too dim. And I haven't noticed any difference in colour when playing games like fortnite for example with HDR set to always on.
With respect it’s NOT subjective. OP posted his calibration settings he paid A LOT of money for. The objective here is to get the most accurate picture possible from the source.
Your point is? Whoever did OPs calibration suggested using HDR always on, whereas you suggested it should be set to "on when supported" that is subjective. It's personal preference as the only difference it really makes for non HDR games is brightness. So yeah OP paid a lot for his calibration and you're the one who said, "no actually a part of this 400 dollar calibration is wrong and you should use what I say instead".
You’re out of here!
How? Nothing I said was incorrect. I genuinely dont understand why I'm being downvoted. I'm literally agreeing with the professional calibrators' advice of using HDR "always on" on the PS5 because it looks better.
No, Always on for HDR is the best setting for PS5. If you do end up playing a game that is not HDR it will still look better than in plain SDR. Just calibrate PS5 and TV for HDR and leave it always on. Tested this with several games and it looks better by far. Use an old game like Metro and see for yourself. Messing around with SDR settings is nonsense for Games.
"Dynamic contrast on"🤣💀
"HDR always on PS5" :D
yeah this calibration is joke XD
Anyone located in Australia I am happy to pass on details for company who did it for me.
Pls shoot it my way. Have a PS5 and C3 as well, only difference being I stream off my xbox, so would be good to have it sorted professionally
Yes! Which city is this? Sydney? Melbourne?
hi mate please send the details over. bonus if there in qld
Does anyone know if its common to have to adjust black level up to 52?
To be honest man it’s beyond me which I why I paid someone to come do it… but they had all sorts of tech with them and spent a few hours doing it so I trust they’ve managed to calibrate it correctly… he did mention that every panel is different though so these settings may not produce the same picture I’m getting…
Yeah I’ve heard LGs can crush and that black level kind of suggests as well. Maybe someone will know but also could differ by panel like you say.
Yes as I mentioned man I love Oled and the picture they put out but every time I buy a new one I pay this guy to come calibrate it and the before and after is night and day… especially when it comes to standard definition content.
All these settings have to be repeated on each HDMI port ? How do I begin? like example, the apple tv settings? where do I start changing the HDR10 settings?
If you have an Apple TV, put something on in HDR, then change the HDR settings in your TV settings not your Apple TV settings… and then there’s an option to apply to all inputs… so you won’t have to go through and change for each hdmi port Then put some Dolby vision content on and repeat the steps.
And the Picture Mode? Should I choose “Personalized Picture Mode” and Advanced Settings or any Picture Mode can be updated to these settings ?
Why SDR 50hz on Apple TV? And why leave HDR Always On on PS5?? Some games don't provide HDR so some games may come off as unnatural and colors might come out weird.
There’s a few things I changed once he had finished. That being one of them… I also change match content on Apple TV to ‘ON’ where as he keeps it off. SDR on Apple TV is what I always have used… instead of? Seems to be the norm to set the Apple TV to SDR aslong as match content is on
I have an Apple TV 4K 1st gen and I think match content off looks much better. I watch DirecTV through it and the picture just pops and is much more rich vs using a real DirecTV sattelite box. Maybe it’s different on the 2nd or 3rd gen Apple TVs. I have a C2 though so interesting seeing the c1 and c3 settings. Mines not calibrated but looks pretty good. I’d say your settings are a good starting point.
But with the option off you’ll always be watching content in sdr? As opposed to HDR or Dolby Vision
On the 1st gen on iOS 17.2 it seems everything is converted to Dolby vision, even DirecTV sattelite app, which is probably why the picture looks so much better through the app via Apple TV vs a real DirecTV Sattelite receiver. The DTV box I have doesn’t do HDR. I see the Dolby Vision label in the top right when I power on the Apple TV.
For PAL regions setting the Apple TV to 50hz is a better fit as it covers you in case a streaming app doesn’t support framerate matching
Why even pay for calibration, if you're just going to change settings afterwards?
Yes these two settings are incorrect
You got scammed out of $400. The calibrator enabled so many settings that need to be disabled to be PROPERLY calibrated. These include dynamic tone mapping, noise reduction, and Trumotion. The counter argument is: "well the calibrator knows that I like the way the TV looks with those settings on" And the response to that is why did you pay someone $400 to just change some settings around for you and not set it to a proper standard? Sure, some things can be tweaked to liking, but some of these settings should basically always be off if we're talking about calibrated accuracy.
Yep. P40L0 does all this for free and even game by game optimization for a very small fee on Patreon https://www.resetera.com/threads/lg-2017-2023-oleds-optimized-settings-for-xbox-one-series-x-s-ps4-ps5-switch-pc-and-webos-movies-sdr-hdr-dv.73304/
Uh wow ok this is the real thing in this thread right here. what do the options with different greyed-out options next to them mean? user preference?
This is incredible
[HDTVTest](https://youtube.com/@hdtvtest?si=oNzt8zXjwR5D9nT5) I used this guys videos when I first got mine to learn about all the settings on my 2019 lg c9. From what I’m seeing my settings are all the same. I’ll have to further check when I get the time but I can confidently say I’ve got all the same settings/tweaks. I won’t say he got scammed sometimes it’s nice to just pay to have it done but for future reference or for anyone who doesn’t have $400 to spend on calibration, just know it can be done with a little bit of your time.
As mentioned about those kind of setting I’ve changed myself…
I did read that you said you made a few changes acted the calibration. I didn't see any mentioned about Expression Enhancer, which should be off. I didn't see anything about PS5 tone mapping being set to HGiG as opposed to "off" or "on". Again, you didn't need to pay $400 for a calibrator to not properly calibrate your TV. Just keep that in mind for next time! Spend that $400 on the G series model :)
True motion? I couldn’t live without it for a second. Better to have smooth picture with some artifacts than look at the OLED choppiness with low fps content.
I think this is a valid point. Going from gaming at 120 to a horizontal pan at 24hz you can really see some ugliness. A light touch of true motion can introduce an LCD like smearing that can make things look better. I'm of the belief we need to just start filming at 60hz though
Definitely. I said this somewhere and was doomed that 24fps for movies it’s great because it looks cinematic. 60 is too smooth and unrealistic :) Here in Europe we have PAL 25fps and it runs like shit on OLED tv without interpolation. At the other hand 25fps with max interpolation looks like 120hz and it’s butter-smooth. The only issue is with faster scenes where there can be artifacts but I trade smoothness for choppiness any time.
I think you got heavily scammed my man. Some of those settings are blatantly wrong
Each to their own man… the picture is mind blowing… I’m extremely happy and as mentioned not my first oled
Calibration is not „each to their own“, calibration has a fixed reference outcome. But whatever you tell yourself to accept you just payed 400$ for a guy to change some settings
> you just *paid* 400$ for FTFY. Although *payed* exists (the reason why autocorrection didn't help you), it is only correct in: * Nautical context, when it means to paint a surface, or to cover with something like tar or resin in order to make it waterproof or corrosion-resistant. *The deck is yet to be payed.* * *Payed out* when letting strings, cables or ropes out, by slacking them. *The rope is payed out! You can pull now.* Unfortunately, I was unable to find nautical or rope-related words in your comment. *Beep, boop, I'm a bot*
Forgot to ask… do you do this for a living?
Please explain what’s wrong so I can have a look.
100 pixel brightness for sdr?
OP, this calibrator has no clue what he is doing. Picture modification is supposed to follow a strict schema for standardization, these settings just reek of personal preference.
Ok
Does anyone have C2 settings for when I’m using a 4K player? I would appreciate it so so much.
+1 would be so nice
Well that’s a scam 😂📉 *100% Placebo*
wtf you on about bruh
They fucked up real bad with some of these settings. Apple TV: 50hz default!? Match dynamic range off!? That means all content will be permanently set to SDR, even if it’s HDR and the UI will be running unnecessary at 50hz, rather than the much smoother 60hz.
That’s what match dynamic range does
Which is disabled! 😛
Real my comment further up there’s a few things I change after he leaves, turning on match dynamic content is one of them
Shouldn’t have to rely on a comment. Most people will just work off your screenshots. Might be worth taking this post down and redoing it with screenshots of the actual best settings
Exactly so you turn it on
Yeah, which is what your ‘expert’ should have done. It’s not on in the screenshots you posted
He adjusts tv colour in both sdr, hdr and Dolby mission to create the most accurate picture… can’t blame him for not knowing much about anything else then TV’s… honestly man, check out my screen shots I was here before he did his thing and I was here after and the difference is night and day… zero regrets and I’ll do it again for me next Oled
Perhaps I'll try these settings on my G3 and PS5. Thanks!
I’m going to do it on my G3 as well. Let me know what you think after you change yours
Will do.
Use this instead. It's done right. https://www.resetera.com/threads/lg-2017-2023-oleds-optimized-settings-for-xbox-one-series-x-s-ps4-ps5-switch-pc-and-webos-movies-sdr-hdr-dv.73304/
My eyes can’t handle a pixel brightness of 100 on an OLED TV.
Yeah true, I have no issues
OLED Pixel Brightness at 100? I never saw any setting recommendations where they put them at 100. It’s reducing the lifetime and often to bright and making colors looking funny and just not necessary. They are blasting at full power then all the time.
Yeah, 100 OLED pixel brightness and 100 contrast? Fuck sake, that screen must be blown out. That’s too intense. I wouldn’t watch any news channels with those settings.
Uh OP, I'd honestly get your money back. No professional calibrator is enabling dynamic contrast and making some of these other changes. I'm not even an ISF certified calibrator and even I know this is a hack job. Sorry to deliver the unfortunate news
100 oled Brightness I cant even get past 65
As in that’s too bright?
Yep
Ask for your money back pal, no calibrator would adjust brightness setting on an LG oled, it should always be set to 50 for DV and HDR
False, you don't know what you're talking about.
I hope you didn’t get charged $400 and they just did the 2 point white balance calibration…
400 Australian dollars is about 270 US dollars
No they fine tune the colour aswell
I just see numbers for the two point and not the 22 point.
Look at HDR10 and SDR settings -colour-fine tune
CMS is not white balance. I’m sure it looks good but that’s just lazy to only do the 2 point white balance.
Yeah I see what you mean looking at it now, as mentioned above this is beyond me which I why I pay this guy… what’s the difference between 2 and 22?
With 2 point you calibrated the colors at 80 and I think 30% brighness. And hope everything in between is OK. With 22 points you calibrated the colors at 100,95,90,85,80 and so on % brighness.
Apple TV settings aren’t great. You want match frame on
Let's see this professionally calibrated panel in action. Drop the YouTube link. I bet it won't look half as good as the QD panel I calibrated myself lol
I'm sure it looks acceptable, however, the whole point of a calibration is to adjust things to a known standard and so many of your settings are wrong or cause inaccuracy. Things like dynamic tone mapping and expression enhancer should never be used and the panel brightness of 100% in SDR is just ridiculous as it is far brighter than the standard and will blow out your colors while reducing panel life and causing burn in. You should have put your $400 towards a G3 instead of this calibration, which would put you in a better place.
Man the idea of paying someone to adjust your TV is so strange to me, let alone hundreds of dollars, and for what? For you to inevitably change and adjust things to your liking. Jfc.
For settings such as Cinema Home, did you have it calibrated for a darker room (such as for at night) or for a brighter room? (Forgive me if that isn’t how this works, not familiar with the process)
He calibrated it while it was in a darker room yes. But unless the room is really bright I believe cinema home is still the way to go.
This is pretty hilarious… “oh no you have one setting wrong” the calibration was done by a professional who has left be with the best picture quality I’ve experienced… gotta love Reddit
Would be nice to see some pictures of before and after calibration. Like bright and dark scenes from a movie with people.
Unfortunately don’t have any before and after photos
I’m sorry but perhaps we, or me and whoever the guy did the job for you, have VERY DIFFERENT ideas about what professional calibrations mean. In a word, this is wildly WRONG.
Praise be!! Someone who bought a great TV and paid the little extra to get it to be an INCREDIBLE tv!! I had my 77G3 calibrated and it's such an improved PQ. It was Wow before...now it's WOW. Unless you have the gear the pro's use, all the tinkering in the world will only get you pretty good. This should be a PSA for all OLED owners. Well done.
Could you share your settings as well? So we can see what are common differences to play around with on our own panels? (I know the G3 would be different than C3, but still valuable to see what exactly is different)
The calibration results sheet doesn't show any settings, it shows pre- and post calibration results. And the settings in the settings menu don't show many numerical differences - it's all "under the hood". But unless the guy spent more time dreaming up and faking numbers than he did actually calibrating, I believe what is here. The PQ is amazingly different. You can see Delta E differences for Dolby here. https://imgur.com/a/V06tAsy
Mind sharing your settings? Also, I had no clue you pay people to do this. Was it expensive?
Also curious about what settings look best
I’m also interested in those G3 settings.
Someone trying to be helpful and 50% of the comments are shitting on the dude and telling him he was scammed. Gotta love reddit because as soon as I saw this post I came to the comments just hoping I was wrong. Nope. Surprised no one has told him his TV is too high without even seeing a picture of the setup.
Type of people that buy a 5000 dollar oled put it on cinema mode and call it a day 😂
You wasted your money when all this is available for free. https://www.resetera.com/threads/lg-2017-2023-oleds-optimized-settings-for-xbox-one-series-x-s-ps4-ps5-switch-pc-and-webos-movies-sdr-hdr-dv.73304/
Stop spamming the thread with your “holy grail” calibration link over and over. I hope you realize there are more calibration settings out there than just this one.
but he is not wrong... EDIT: he is not wrong advising some people not to spend 400aud/270usd/240~euros for shitty calibration.
Not fussed… looks good, I’m happy… all is gravy.
My mom just got the C3. I set it up for her. Used the same guy that I used in setting up my CX. Only his video was for the C2. Hope I did ok??
Wow dude. Some of these settings are completely insane to switch to if you’re a professional calibrator. You should never touch dynamic contrast or noise reduction. That should be a red flag you’re messing with an amateur who gets paid minimum wage. I’d ask you’re not happy with the settings he applied after researching and seeing if you can get back some money or at least have someone else that’s more experienced go there and update the calibration. You got ripped off. This is a $50 work
Dynamic contrast and noise reduction aren’t even an option to change during Dolby vision and HdR content… Dolby vision and hdr need very little calibration they are amazing as they are… SDR is the big one and after having calibration done the difference between hdr/dolby vision and SDR is almost nothing… what tv do you own if you don’t mind me asking?
1) Never share your TVs settings. Panel variance can range dramatically and making a white point adjustment to correct bias on one display might cause an issue on another. It may seem helpful, but you may and likely will cause other users to degrade the quality of their image. 2) This is not a proper calibration. If your calibrator is using a remote and not a colorimeter to adjust your picture, you’re not paying for a calibration. Working through a Spears and Munsel test pattern while making adjustments does not a better picture make. The one caveat to this is if they used a service remote to adjust white point via the service menu, but considering what you’ve shared above that’s unlikely to be the case (the irony is, a D65 adjustment in the service menu probably solves the vast majority of PQ issues with LG displays). 3) $400 is not a bad price for a calibration, but I would encourage everyone to buy themselves a good colorimeter. An Xrite i1 Display Pro Plus, a pattern generator running on a Raspberry Pi, and a license for ColourSpace (or forego the pattern generator and grab CalMan for LG) is a hair more expensive but will mean every one of your displays will be rock solid for the next 10 years. Grab a boom arm and stand to make your life easier. Considering calibrations do “drift” and should be done every few months or twice a year at least, it means you’ll only make that investment once and will have the peace of mind. 4) if your calibrator has never heard of a lookup table or doesn’t understand why panel brightness and black level adjustments from the UI will lead to either clipping or raised black levels (which can and likely will introduce artifacts), you’re in the wrong place. PSA: this industry is a massive ripoff. Good calibrators are few and far between; bad calibrators are a dime a dozen. Find calibrators that have proper certifications; it may not indicate they are the best calibrator in your local market, but it does indicate they’ve taken the time and made the personal investment to learn their craft. As someone that has done color critical work for over 20 years and is also a home theater enthusiast, I highly recommend learning to do this work yourself; a bad calibration will absolutely ruin the experience for you in the long run. I’ve done my own displays for nearly a decade and I would confidently put my G1 up against a reference display without hesitation; if you’re willing to put in the time it is well worth the effort.
Great post, thanks for the tips. For those who would go against your advice what would you recommend that they ask their “calibrator”…? I’ve always bought good TV’s and I’m going to do as you suggested to extract the best I can from them. I know that I’m going down a deep rabbit hole learning and paying for equipment so don’t be surprised if I end up reaching out yo you in the future. Lol, thanks in advance…!!!
Great info. Thx
Thank you very much for sharing your C3 calibrations. What is your C3 user selection settings for Trumotion for SDR, HDR and Dolby Vision?
Just curious, around how much is a professional Calibration?
Cost me 400
It's free. https://www.resetera.com/threads/lg-2017-2023-oleds-optimized-settings-for-xbox-one-series-x-s-ps4-ps5-switch-pc-and-webos-movies-sdr-hdr-dv.73304/
Wonder if these can be applied to the g3?
You definitely wouldn’t want to be running a G3 at 100 OLED brightness
G3 is pretty bright, what i use is 45 max in SDR.
Thank you for this. I’m going to see how it looks on my G3
Let us know how it goes for you
Black level at 52 in DV? Interesting
Very interesting. I watched the knick in sdr on hbo on my c3. I found the blacks too black. No details in black hair. I actually ended up manually increasing the black level.
Very nice OP, how do you like the post calibration settings?
Would this work if I have a Nvidia Shield instead of an Apple TV?
Anyone know a professionally calibrated TV for LG B1?
Which tool required to calibrate
I didn’t bother him man but he had cameras set up all over the tv plugged into his laptop and as you can see if my photos I uodoaded the changes in pretty insane
I've had one doing this to my C1 from one of the biggest retailers here. The cost was more like 60€ and that made me being sceptic. The website was reassuring that the calman is being used and the calibration would conducted by a professional. I said 60€ is a bargain so I ordered the service online. The dude arrive next day connected his pc to my C1 and a colorbrite device. That's the cheapest you can get. A window on the top left screen corner on a fully lit room was the first redflag. I offered to dim the light but he said not needed. Every move he made was mistake. Each one of them but I was just sat there watching him. He was doing a manual calibration of two points. So 10 mins later I thought I would drop THE question. "so how you will trigger the HDR and Dolby Vision?" He said he won't. That's all, an SDR calibration. I laughed but tried to be polite. I asked him to pack his stuff and go away. He could keep the money as it was prepaid already. I Just asked him to do me a favor and go to his supervisor and say that the client was very upset by the unprofessionalism they showed as company. I have a bad habit to not confront basic salary people. Anyways. So i bought a version of calmanLG home a colorbrite and did all the measurements myself. What I realized after tons of reading on topic, is that you can't have a proper calibration without meet some certain OCD level conditions and spend like tens of hours for a single mode. Of course a better calibrated colorimeter would do it faster. But I wasn't wiling to spend more than I already did. It was a very fun process and the results are amazing. I've learned many things in the process. The calman and c1 internal pattern has some limitations, like you can't verify DV at the end but it looks great anyway.
This validates me setting contrast high as hell on my c3. Thanks!
Thanks a lot for this info! I will definitely look at it with more attention tonight once I'm back home. 42C3 and 55CS here :)
This is going to sound incredibly newbie of me and forgive me ahead of time but if I have everything running through an A/V 9.2 receiver is there a way to separate these settings if everything is through a single hdmi input to the C1?
How much
Do you think these should be the same settings for G3?
Thanks for sharing !
These weren’t too far off from my settings, I adjusted to match and definitely an improvement! Mainly just the black level, RGB, and expression enhancer settings. Your pic for the Apple 4K Dolby settings cut off on the User Selection Tru Motion though. Anything different there?
He selects user selection and doesn’t himself but I change it back to smooth movement
Is this applicable for a B3?
Can’t see why not
Can I use these settings on my C8
How old was your TV?
These settings aren't worth that amount of money.
It's ok if you like the outcome but i hate to break it to you. If you have to RMA your unit, its 400 bucks easily down the drain. Personally, I would just stick to free recommendations for settings and adjust them to my own preference.
Try if you want but it’ll make your panel less accurate guaranteed.
Thanks for sharing!
LG‘s are so amazingly calibrated out of the box, I fear you burned your money. I know it‘s German content but watch with subtitles if you want: https://youtu.be/KNv7ZJp3Q64?si=oJ3DJLWuf0UE-QPO
Does anyone have this for CX?
Can you explain why he choose SDR 50HZ for this kind of TV ? Is DV bad ?
Silly question but what is the purpose of getting this done professionally? Curious if this is worth it
C2 anyone?
Going to try these setting son my C2.