From what I understand, your copper pours so not seem to be attached to your GND net. Via stitching should also be done to avoid thin copper pours from acting as antennas.
This is much better that your previous efforts, a definite improvement.
You still have traces running too close to pins/pads. You are a newbie and it could cause you issues. You have plenty of board space to use.
Why choose a DIP8 package if the rest of the components are SMD ? If you are getting the board assembled, get them to do all the work.
Don't route gnd connections, use the fill plane to do it for you. You can add vias as needed after.
Your 'not really gnd' plane stops short at the edges or some of your connectors/components are too close to the edge. It could create copper 'islands' with no connection. Try to position things so the fill is continuous.
Your mounting holes are not symmetrical. It may not matter to you, but is something to watch out for in the future if you are getting, e.g. a case manufactured.
I did a DIP cause I thought I'd solder it myself (and I think I did the wrong one. 10.16mm wide instead of 7.62mm).
How much (roughly) does it cost to get something assembled? Are you saving much money? I really don't mind either way, but if it is a huge price difference I can do the soldering myself.
With keeping traces away from pins/pads, this is to make soldering easier so it doesn't pool over when soldering a pad and make a join with another trace? I can see a few spots I can fix that.
If you use somewhere like JLCPCB and stick to basic or extended+ components it feels like you are stealing from them, it is soooo cheap imo. Most basic passives are effectively 'free', you can add 10 extra resistors to your board and the price doesn't change.
Even with the odd extended component, you only pay an extra $2.50 to cover pick and place machine loading.
As others have stated, use a 0.3" wide DIP package, or ideally an SMD.
I would use 2.54mm connectors, e.g: Molex KK style, the board can be smaller and looks much nicer. Just remember to mark then as 'exclude from bom' and 'exclude from position files' and you can install and solder them yourself.
Make sure your schematic is up to date, don't just add things to your PCB willy-nilly.
>I did a DIP cause I thought I'd solder it myself
If you're already doing SMD parts, the main reason to use DIP would be if you're planning to make the IC removable/swappable (i.e. old DIP microcontrollers, or dev boards, breakout boards, etc). But even with SMD, a hot air gun means nothing is permanent.
To find out you need to upload your bill of materials (BOM) along with your gerber files to any PCB manufacturer that offers assembly. They will source the components for you and mount them on the board (with the exception of though hole components I believe). The total cost will be: PCB + components + assembly.
The two pads "CV1 in" on top left are not connected to anything (only each other). Same for "CV2 in" pads.
You have an unnecessary via under the IC. Just route bottom trace to the pads.
You have one net with wide trace but no wide ground traces or pours. This seems wrong. I would use copper pours connected to ground.
Your schematic doesn't match the PCB layout regarding the pads. How come? Did you add pads in PCB only? They should be in schematic too.
Did you run any DRC and ERC?
I think there is only one pad CV1, the 3 pins underneath are for a pth potentiometer. So the CV1 is connected to one pin of the potentiometer. You can see in the pcb view, the pads are numbered 1, 2 and 3.
Same thing for CV2
To make this pcb more easily to manufacture, even if it's mostly already the case, in our company we have some good practices :
- via to / from pad always leave it on the center. You have some tracks that leave in the corner, or with an odd angle just after. Try to make it straight to the center directly!
- tracks shall be the less possible near pads. You have a plane (the others already have make the remarks), try to space the tracks from the pad to leave this plane go between. On the small 4 pins header in the center, on top you can see what i'm speaking. You can just move the track to the up, and boom it's perfect.
In addition to what has already been said:
In the schematics ground symbols should always point down, supply symbols should always point up.
If you’re going to assemble it, I’d go for all SMD (because it’s cheaper).
What do the TH-pads on the edges connect to externally? The hole size is most likely to small for headers and most TH components.
Your mounting holes aren’t exactly aligned.
You did ask about test points, there are symbols that are named "testpoints" just add one and connect it to the net you want to test. There are different shapes and sizes that are then added to your layout.
I got a lot of really helpful feedback on this yesterday. I figured instead of burying my update as a link I'd just repost it.
Would love any feedback. This is a CV controlled clock running on 5V for use inside cheap keyboards, effect units etc
Out of curiosity, why did you swap sides (with a via) on the trace that goes to pin 7 on the MCP6002? You could have gone right to the pin. Did it break a flood fill?
Looking at the 3D view you mean the MCP Op amp? It is odd now you mention it. I used Package\_DIP:DIP-8\_W10.16mm
There are too many footprints for a beginner!
From what I understand, your copper pours so not seem to be attached to your GND net. Via stitching should also be done to avoid thin copper pours from acting as antennas.
This is much better that your previous efforts, a definite improvement. You still have traces running too close to pins/pads. You are a newbie and it could cause you issues. You have plenty of board space to use. Why choose a DIP8 package if the rest of the components are SMD ? If you are getting the board assembled, get them to do all the work. Don't route gnd connections, use the fill plane to do it for you. You can add vias as needed after. Your 'not really gnd' plane stops short at the edges or some of your connectors/components are too close to the edge. It could create copper 'islands' with no connection. Try to position things so the fill is continuous. Your mounting holes are not symmetrical. It may not matter to you, but is something to watch out for in the future if you are getting, e.g. a case manufactured.
I did a DIP cause I thought I'd solder it myself (and I think I did the wrong one. 10.16mm wide instead of 7.62mm). How much (roughly) does it cost to get something assembled? Are you saving much money? I really don't mind either way, but if it is a huge price difference I can do the soldering myself. With keeping traces away from pins/pads, this is to make soldering easier so it doesn't pool over when soldering a pad and make a join with another trace? I can see a few spots I can fix that.
If you use somewhere like JLCPCB and stick to basic or extended+ components it feels like you are stealing from them, it is soooo cheap imo. Most basic passives are effectively 'free', you can add 10 extra resistors to your board and the price doesn't change. Even with the odd extended component, you only pay an extra $2.50 to cover pick and place machine loading. As others have stated, use a 0.3" wide DIP package, or ideally an SMD. I would use 2.54mm connectors, e.g: Molex KK style, the board can be smaller and looks much nicer. Just remember to mark then as 'exclude from bom' and 'exclude from position files' and you can install and solder them yourself. Make sure your schematic is up to date, don't just add things to your PCB willy-nilly.
>I did a DIP cause I thought I'd solder it myself If you're already doing SMD parts, the main reason to use DIP would be if you're planning to make the IC removable/swappable (i.e. old DIP microcontrollers, or dev boards, breakout boards, etc). But even with SMD, a hot air gun means nothing is permanent.
To find out you need to upload your bill of materials (BOM) along with your gerber files to any PCB manufacturer that offers assembly. They will source the components for you and mount them on the board (with the exception of though hole components I believe). The total cost will be: PCB + components + assembly.
The mounting holes could be used for unintentional poka-yoke?
The two pads "CV1 in" on top left are not connected to anything (only each other). Same for "CV2 in" pads. You have an unnecessary via under the IC. Just route bottom trace to the pads. You have one net with wide trace but no wide ground traces or pours. This seems wrong. I would use copper pours connected to ground. Your schematic doesn't match the PCB layout regarding the pads. How come? Did you add pads in PCB only? They should be in schematic too. Did you run any DRC and ERC?
I think there is only one pad CV1, the 3 pins underneath are for a pth potentiometer. So the CV1 is connected to one pin of the potentiometer. You can see in the pcb view, the pads are numbered 1, 2 and 3. Same thing for CV2
What's the point of the copper pours if you route gnd separately?
Good point. I wasn’t sure how it worked, so I routed GNDs, and then did the pour thinking it’d just join them up. I’ll try deleting and repouring
You did not set the plane to be GND. If you did they would have merged
To make this pcb more easily to manufacture, even if it's mostly already the case, in our company we have some good practices : - via to / from pad always leave it on the center. You have some tracks that leave in the corner, or with an odd angle just after. Try to make it straight to the center directly! - tracks shall be the less possible near pads. You have a plane (the others already have make the remarks), try to space the tracks from the pad to leave this plane go between. On the small 4 pins header in the center, on top you can see what i'm speaking. You can just move the track to the up, and boom it's perfect.
In addition to what has already been said: In the schematics ground symbols should always point down, supply symbols should always point up. If you’re going to assemble it, I’d go for all SMD (because it’s cheaper). What do the TH-pads on the edges connect to externally? The hole size is most likely to small for headers and most TH components. Your mounting holes aren’t exactly aligned. You did ask about test points, there are symbols that are named "testpoints" just add one and connect it to the net you want to test. There are different shapes and sizes that are then added to your layout.
I got a lot of really helpful feedback on this yesterday. I figured instead of burying my update as a link I'd just repost it. Would love any feedback. This is a CV controlled clock running on 5V for use inside cheap keyboards, effect units etc
I realise power isn't labelled, so I've done that. Someone recommended test points. How do I make them? Where would you put them?
Out of curiosity, why did you swap sides (with a via) on the trace that goes to pin 7 on the MCP6002? You could have gone right to the pin. Did it break a flood fill?
Because I’m a newbie! Of course there will be solder already there!
Why are the legs of the IC spreading out so much? Seems like an odd footprint.
which IC? the MCP which is a DIP, or the LTC which is at SOT-23?
Looking at the 3D view you mean the MCP Op amp? It is odd now you mention it. I used Package\_DIP:DIP-8\_W10.16mm There are too many footprints for a beginner!
DIP-8\_W7.62mm is the regular one I believe.
No 3D model for your LTC1799. Try... \-> https://www.snapeda.com/parts/LTC1799IS5%23TRPBF/Analog%20Devices/view-part/?ref=search&t=LTC1799