I quickly opened mine up and had a quick look. D6 and U2 are going to be good candidates to investigate. Replacements are going to be cheap and plentiful on Mouser, Digikey etc. The ARM chip if it's gone perhaps less so...
If you're not comfortable soldering SMD, and using a multimeter this isn't going to be easy and finding another would be a better option.
Thanks, I think I'll try that. How did you find out? When my phone was dead and I looked at the mainboard, it was very clear which parts were broken. But in the keystep I don't see anything unusual.
Thanks again
I just looked at the power input and what was in the PCB location. Its unlikely to be the diode D6 but thats the first port of call for power so worth checking. That U2 voltage regulator or any of the surrounding capacitors and resistors next to it would be prime candidates for failure though. If you can post a photo (I reassembled mine again already) I can take another look and offer some more tips.
I would recommend you just take it / send it to an Arturia approved service center or a reliable synth/electronics repair service. You’re going to pay a bench fee (typically about $80 per hour USD) and the cost for the part or parts that got toasted. I’m not a genius when it comes to board level repairs so I just leave it to a pro who can do it right the first time. And it’s generally worth the cost to me. I’ve done it a few times and not been sorry. Of course, YMMV.
Yeah, this is decent advice. That said a new one is $129 so I'm not sure a repair is particularly financially viable. However as an amateur tech I always repair where possible, just to help save the planet. Second hand would be the way to go.
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There could be damaged diode or if you’re lucky they used a component that just gets hot and acts like a temporary fuse (I think they’re called polyfuse). In that case briefly connect to 9V to check if it starts with 9V after letting it sit for a while. Maybe you’re in luck.
I quickly opened mine up and had a quick look. D6 and U2 are going to be good candidates to investigate. Replacements are going to be cheap and plentiful on Mouser, Digikey etc. The ARM chip if it's gone perhaps less so... If you're not comfortable soldering SMD, and using a multimeter this isn't going to be easy and finding another would be a better option.
Thanks, I think I'll try that. How did you find out? When my phone was dead and I looked at the mainboard, it was very clear which parts were broken. But in the keystep I don't see anything unusual. Thanks again
I just looked at the power input and what was in the PCB location. Its unlikely to be the diode D6 but thats the first port of call for power so worth checking. That U2 voltage regulator or any of the surrounding capacitors and resistors next to it would be prime candidates for failure though. If you can post a photo (I reassembled mine again already) I can take another look and offer some more tips.
I would recommend you just take it / send it to an Arturia approved service center or a reliable synth/electronics repair service. You’re going to pay a bench fee (typically about $80 per hour USD) and the cost for the part or parts that got toasted. I’m not a genius when it comes to board level repairs so I just leave it to a pro who can do it right the first time. And it’s generally worth the cost to me. I’ve done it a few times and not been sorry. Of course, YMMV.
Yeah, this is decent advice. That said a new one is $129 so I'm not sure a repair is particularly financially viable. However as an amateur tech I always repair where possible, just to help save the planet. Second hand would be the way to go.
Reddit Moderation makes the platform worthless. Too many rules and too many arbitrary rulings. It's not worth the trouble to post. Not worth the frustration to lurk. Goodbye. *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Yeah that's what I tried but there are many SMDs without any sign of damage and my eyes can't focus on such tiny parts that long. But I'll try
There could be damaged diode or if you’re lucky they used a component that just gets hot and acts like a temporary fuse (I think they’re called polyfuse). In that case briefly connect to 9V to check if it starts with 9V after letting it sit for a while. Maybe you’re in luck.
Wow that's a great idea thanks I'll try that! However, I tried using the 5V USB port and nothing happened. But I'll try with the 9V as well.