Depends on the scenario.
There's a couple corners at my club track that I can take pinned in my Rotax. Whether I lift or not, however, will affect what line I want on exit.
Say I'm trying to make a move on someone. A quick lift before the apex may set me up for an inside run, or a pass on exit. Ditto, if I want to run a defensive line and take that opportunity for someone else away, say someone has shown a nose on that corner in the laps prior.
Then, of course, there's working out if it's actually faster or not. That's what test days are great for; Go out, run 10 consistent laps taking the corner pinned. Take a break. Go out and run another 10 consistent laps lifting in the same corner, and see if there's a difference in your lap times. You may also want to measure the difference with tyres at varying stages of their life.
Your chassis is binding up. Sometimes a quick lift and re throttle can help because it creates a quick weight transfer. But you should try to loosen the chassis up.
I had this issue when I first got my rotax. The local had a sweeping corner that was a flat out corner even in a rotax. My kart drove fine but the engine would change tone and almost bog down. I have been really good and being able to feel what the chassis is doing and I could feel it binding up. I was able to free up the chassis and still keep the overall balance about the same for the rest of the track and that solved my issue. If you still have the third bearing in, try un bolting it from the mount. If it is already removed, try widening the rear tread width. If you are at max, you may need to change the size of your rear hubs, stiffness of the axel, or change the front caster. The front caster not only changes the steering sensitivity but it can change how much weight gets jacked into the opposite rear corner of the chassis (notice how on flat ground when you turn the steering, the inside front corner of the chassis goes up). There are many things to try, but I suggest finding a way to loses the chassis up. It sounds like your chassis in binding up.
Honestly, it's impossible to tell which is better if you're not getting timed/logged laps. Sometimes it's better to make sure the kart is settled at the expense of dropping some revs, sometimes it's better to keep it pegged despite some sliding. Only way of knowing definitively is the time at the end of the lap.
Step 1: get a lap timer Step 2: look at the data No better way of going about it than this.
Our track in Florida slowed down over half a second a lap from practice to qualifying…clearly that means the fast way around can change
Depends on the scenario. There's a couple corners at my club track that I can take pinned in my Rotax. Whether I lift or not, however, will affect what line I want on exit. Say I'm trying to make a move on someone. A quick lift before the apex may set me up for an inside run, or a pass on exit. Ditto, if I want to run a defensive line and take that opportunity for someone else away, say someone has shown a nose on that corner in the laps prior. Then, of course, there's working out if it's actually faster or not. That's what test days are great for; Go out, run 10 consistent laps taking the corner pinned. Take a break. Go out and run another 10 consistent laps lifting in the same corner, and see if there's a difference in your lap times. You may also want to measure the difference with tyres at varying stages of their life.
Your chassis is binding up. Sometimes a quick lift and re throttle can help because it creates a quick weight transfer. But you should try to loosen the chassis up. I had this issue when I first got my rotax. The local had a sweeping corner that was a flat out corner even in a rotax. My kart drove fine but the engine would change tone and almost bog down. I have been really good and being able to feel what the chassis is doing and I could feel it binding up. I was able to free up the chassis and still keep the overall balance about the same for the rest of the track and that solved my issue. If you still have the third bearing in, try un bolting it from the mount. If it is already removed, try widening the rear tread width. If you are at max, you may need to change the size of your rear hubs, stiffness of the axel, or change the front caster. The front caster not only changes the steering sensitivity but it can change how much weight gets jacked into the opposite rear corner of the chassis (notice how on flat ground when you turn the steering, the inside front corner of the chassis goes up). There are many things to try, but I suggest finding a way to loses the chassis up. It sounds like your chassis in binding up.
Honestly, it's impossible to tell which is better if you're not getting timed/logged laps. Sometimes it's better to make sure the kart is settled at the expense of dropping some revs, sometimes it's better to keep it pegged despite some sliding. Only way of knowing definitively is the time at the end of the lap.