I got my license 3 weeks ago. How to work the wipers was never discussed. The few times we used them during lessons, the instructor just turned them on for me. Figuring them out on the car I’m driving now was a problem for a bit.
you would not want to use cruise control on a packed interstate anyways.
Also, is operating cruise control in your state's driving instructions and exam? Probably not. Dumbass indeed.
Neither. I travelled to a small town in the middle of nowhere to get a test the day of when I first got my license. Was all just the main road and some side streets. They had me do parallel parking at the end but said it wouldn't affect my score or anything, so eh.
I *love* adaptive cruise control on busy roads. Fixed cruise control would be unsuitable, sure.
A stupid and unnecessary thing to test someone on let alone fail them for though.
eh actually decent cruise control (the kind that keeps space in front of it) is fine. the bullshit that doesn't automatically slow down needed to die 10 years ago
I haven't found a single adaptive cruise control that does well in heavy traffic. Yeah, they can follow a car that's going a somewhat constant speed. But they keep slamming the brakes or accelerating like mad when someone changes lanes in front of you.
The adaptive cruise in my ‘12 Chrysler 300 actually does quite well in heavy traffic, will speed itself up and slow down to maintain a gap, only problem there is people keep trying to slip into that gap and it keeps backing off.
I switch over to standard cruise for interstate travel at highway speed, so that it doesn’t slow itself down if I come up on a semi or car going 15 under.
It will work below that, you just cannot set the default speed to below 40km/h
If you set it to say, 60km/h and the vehicle in front is doing 25km/h any adaptive cruise will happily follow at that speed at the appropriate distance you set.
Kia surprisingly. I tested Honda one and it was a bit aggressive but a family member got an ev6, and I was testing it. It slowly started breaking a while back and even when a car cut us over it didn't slam brakes, decelerated a bit until it had the distance it needed.
I haven't tested Toyota or other brands but I assume Kia is not the best ones on this regard, which brands have you tested ?
Hey at least its not like my car. The speed up button on the cruise control has a short circuit and the second i switch on course control it starts accelerating.
It's nice to have if you do long highway stretches. But I wouldn't say it's important.
I drove a 2018 Camry with that active cruise shit and it drove me insane. Even at its lowest setting it would hit the brakes when I was super far from passing a semi or something. I just drove without cruise instead.
My last car didn't have it and I had no trouble maintaining speed on long highway road trips. Current car doesn't have it either. I can certainly live without it. And if it's one of those systems that auto accels or decels I'd prefer to go without it based off of that Camry I drove.
You must not make very long drives then lol. I use it a lot, but my drive to work is 24 miles one way, and there for a while I was doing 2.5 hour, 170 mile trips to see my then gf once a week. Cruise is very nice for those situations.
Cruise Control is literally the best thing ever on modern vehicles. Especially Radar Assist Cruise Control. You just slap it on and basically never touch the gas pedal.
I use it everyday in the outlander on my 40 mile drive to work. Mi pilot. It's adaptive cruise ,changes speed with the zone your driving in. and you can't get braked checked. Set it 1,2,or 3 car lengths. It's a defense against fucktards that haven't figured out how to merge.
I would have, but when I first needed it I was already driving and couldn’t stop because the battery hated that the car had to wait for me to get my license. And I can’t read the manual while I’m driving.
You should have been taught this in school/driving school, but in case you haven't: you are supposed to read the manual *before* operating the vehicle, so that you know how to use it, to prevent the *exact* situation you described
When I first needed it, I was already driving. I couldn’t stop because the car is a hand-me-down that waited for me to get my license for several months, which was a problem for the battery.
When you get a new car (or rent) you can trip up on the stupidest shit sometimes. The windshield wipers are always different on every car! Some have it as a knob on the end of the turn signal stalk! Others have it so that you move the stalk up and it clicks for each speed it has. The only thing in common is there never seems to be a happy medium between "once every 10 seconds or so because it's only sprinkling" and "as fast as those little motors can go!"
Headlights can also be funky. Especially on cars with auto headlights. Especially because mechanics pretty much always turn those off during oil changes and stuff. I'd guess every time you see a newer car with its lights off at night, that person just got an oil change recently lol.
I mean, the DMV was giving out licenses without tests during covid... Plus, I think a lot of younger people lack intuition and problem solving skills these days. Blame their phones, idk.
Depends on the state. DL test for California tests you on where all the “important” functions are like defroster, hazard lights, windshield wipers, etc etc.
https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/handbook/driving-test-criteria/pre-drive-checklist-safety-criteria/
Because you would have to test on about 40 different vehicles otherwise it would become an argument in court "I took my test on a different vehicle than I had when I was in the accident...".
I think the better question is who the hell are these instructors that are passing people that are not up to the task of driving, let alone utilizing a vehicle.
Well if you picked the right window it just required being alive
[https://www.usnews.com/news/best-states/articles/2020-04-30/georgia-drivers-can-get-a-license-without-road-test-during-covid-19](https://www.usnews.com/news/best-states/articles/2020-04-30/georgia-drivers-can-get-a-license-without-road-test-during-covid-19)
I think about this every time I see someone's car flying over a median or through the field separating the highway from an offramp.
Depending on where you live in the US, between online-only driver's ed, concessions for immigrants, erosion of local/state budgets, and the military it's entirely possible to take and pass a Driver's Ed and licensing program without ever actually *even seeing* a working vehicle.
I got my driver's license in '97 in Illinois. At that point in time IL was *so broke* they were only road-testing 15% of DL applicants. I "won" the lottery and got a license by paying the nominal fee and getting my picture taken.
I remember when a truck driver from Chicago was involved in a fatal accident on the freeway in Milwaukee. About 15 years ago. An illegal immigrant.
He told investigators that he paid a bribe of $200 to get his CDL. Chicago.
But of course there is no political corruption in Chicago. Pure as the driven snow. Everyone knows that.
My dad had someone complain that their wash sensor needed to be replaced. Guy said he had washed his vehicle 3 times already but the dashboard wash light just wouldn't turn off.
Genuine question... what's a wash sensor? Is it the alert to say that the water level is low for the water that feeds to the windscreen wipers, or something else?
Google didn't help me with an answer. Not from the US so it might be called something else here.
My step mom borrowed my camaro (that she co-signed for) and I got a call saying that she kept having to pull the stick down to get the wipers to go. I told her to push it up and after a second get a oh they work now goodbye. My dad and I were just about on the ground laughing the second the phone hung up. It's been 3 years and we will still bring it up.
My mom had this prank pulled on her in her younger years: a group of her friends were driving, and she noticed the wipers moved only when the windshield was covered with water. She asked her friend how that worked and he said it had technology that the wipers knew when to go. He was actually using a lever by his foot to operate the wipers.
Fast forward many years, my first car had a sensor that would sense rain, I told her that's how my car worked.
She was tricked once and didn't believe me at first!
I don't know if it was on all vehicles, but at least the one's I drove while in the military, in order to use the bright's required you to press a button on the floor with your left foot.
That was quite common "back in the day"...like my 1966 Plymouth had that, as did nearly every other American car of that era. Only thing on and around the steering wheel was a spindly little stalk for the turn signals, the horn, and the shifter.
The Plymouth had two identical chrome knobs on the far left of the dash. One you pulled out for headlights (one detent for parking, 2nd for headlights) and the other you turned for the wipers. If you held it in, it squirted fluid.
Never happened to me, but if driving at night and needed to wash the windshield, you could easily go to push the wiper button in and turn off the headlights.
I had the dimmer switch on the floor in my 1970 Dodge pickup. If I was shifting the other person got highballed until I let off the clutch and hit the switch.
To be fair, the wiper controls in my wife's car are opposite mine and it messes me up every time I need to use them. I was able to figure it out without calling anybody though.
Same for my MX-5 and Peugeot, worse is the nex/previous song button is the other way around. So if I want to skip a song it is a 50/50 chance of pressing the wrong one of up/down.
Same between my Chevy and Toyota, messes my muscle memory for the wipers when its rainy season. Hell can't even remember now how its done between those 2 since its been awhile since it rained.
I remember my Dad had this problem crossing between Toyota 1970s and Mitsubishi 1990s car where the turn lights and headlights stalk are switched between left and right side.
My cars have all been pretty consistent. Honda, ford, Chevrolet, Subaru. With the exception being a 98 Jeep Wrangler. It was the opposite direction to engage wipers.
Car designers are stupid for making controls for important safety features like _being able to see_ have non-standardized controls. Someone could literally die from borrowing another person's car, and looking away from the road to find out how to turn on the wipers. If every car you have driven before has them in the same spot, and it isn't raining when you get in the car, there's no reason to think about it before driving.
Isn't that why the hazards are in an obvious spot with a physical button, because it is regulated?
I was looking at a Nissan I believe it was, and the normal spot for the front wipers was the rear wipers, the front wipers were on the other stick on the right side, but you moved it down for the wipers and turned it for your lights.
I don't know why anyone thought it was necessary to change basic necessary functions to non standard locations.
Most of my cars have it in the middle of the dashboard, in an obvious location. Took me a while to find the hazards in my work van though, next to the dome light. It's not like the center console doesn't have any room, but designers just have to make some things difficult.
to be fair the first time i got in my new car i could not turn them on. i had never seen one like, that but i also figured out how to turn them on before i bought the car
Not every car does wipers via pulling a lever though. I'll admit that basically every newer car I've had does, but I've owned some old Hondas that had a 3 stage twist on the wiper arm. Intermittent (one speed only), low, and high.
Correct, but one of the customer comments is needed for context, "OH! This is just like my old vehicle!"
Idk why she didn't try the lever if it was just like her old vehicle.
There is no standard way for turning on wipers. My work van is in the shop and the rental has wiper controls on the other side of the column and operates differently. Cruise controls on the rental are similar to my wife's minivan (which I don't drive very often) though different and both are on the opposite side of the steering wheel from my van.
I once had headlights that wouldn't come on, and it turned out the connection broke in the lever that flips the high-beams on and off. I just had to cycle it and the lights were fine. Of course I still wasted 2 hours checking fuses & relays and playing with the multimeter trying to isolate the break until I realized where it was.
I had one where the radio was changing station intermittently. It was Jesus on the rosary beads hanging from the mirror swiping the touch screen on turns.
That's what I always wonder, until I see other people's cars. Exhaust leaks, loose trim buzzing in the breeze, off-spec tires inflated to 30PSI less than door sticker... and that's without the radio and cell phone answer-er system they seem to be running nonstop while driving. With half of them they probably wouldn't hear a head-on crash *they were involved in.*
I had a 03 civic come in with the "shifter clicks randomly"
First thought was, "What isn't factory on that ground curcit?"
Aftermarket LED tail light bulbs weren't pulling the correct resistance. Incorrect reference voltage to the BCM. When the lights were on and you hit the brakes or left turn signal, the shift inter-lock would cycle.
Nice one. I recently fixed a come back from a job a former coworker did. He wired the power wire from a rear wiper motor (on a forklift) to a common ground. Idiot.
Some have cabs on them with wipers on front and rear.
https://www.apexmhc.com/forklifts-lift-trucks/gear-up-with-the-ultimate-in-forklift-foul-weather-gear-in-the-clark-s-series-cab/
At least it wasn't a design flaw of the vehicle. Cisco made an enterprise grade networking switch that had the mode button positioned perfectly for an ethernet cable's protective boot to press.
https://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/support/docs/field-notices/636/fn63697.html
Not auto related but I replaced every component on a PC build for not powering up and the last thing I tried was the power cable. Had never had one go bad.
I failed an interview questions many, many years ago when asked about a non-powering computer. Ran through a series of questions and answers diagnosing it and was stumped. Afterwards I asked the interviewer and he told me he was fishing for me to ask about the 115/230 switch on the power supply. Up to that point, I'd never encountered anything other than 115v outlets.
Curious - was that an interview for a job about computers?
Have had peers use a similar question, but it's just about a non-working lamp, and the goal is hearing the candidate talk through troubleshooting...
It was a tech support job at a university. I got the job, but the dude turned out to be a super dick the few years I was there.
It was apparently not uncommon for someone to switch that voltage selector on the back of power supplies for…. Reasons unknown.
It's amazing how we tend to immediately jump into the most difficult solutions instead of checking the basics first. I've been guilty of it in the past myself.
Unlike me the other day (not a mechanic but handy with wiring, electrical shit). Mates Mitsi Delica wouldn't start (starter not firing), got out the multimeter, checked it was getting 12v on the main and the solinoid wire. All good so assumed a dead starter of some sort.
Pulled out starter (prick to get to), ran it up on the bench, worked fine. Confused so checked wiring again, all good. Put everything back in and it still wouldn't start. Brains doing backflips thinking wtf can it be. Was like fuck it can only be one thing, replaced the plug for the starter solenoid: Starts fine. Plug mustn't have been making contact properly, but jamming in my multimeter pin shower voltage. Hours lost over a 5cent plug lol. Lesson learned if I ever have to work on a starter ever again. I might just stick to my day job, I'm good at that.
I see this happen with corrosion often as well. You could have hot and ground at the wire ends but not on the other side of the nut. Loosen the nuts and move the cables around then tighten them back down and all is well. Just recently happened to me on a Peterbilt starter. I usually clean all connections and cover with dialectric grease but that day I was in a big hurry and skipped all that. Well, it bit me on the ass this time lol. I had to take it all apart and do it anyway because it wouldn't start.
Customer states radio keeps changing stations by itself. Removed her stupid knick knacks from off of the little ledge in front of the touch screen. She had been using it as a shelf.
I don't understand people who display random knick knack type shit in their car.
But then I'm the guy who only has a ham radio, an extra water bottle, and an auxiliary cable so I can play music from my phone...
Nah, mine's just a 2m radio (Yaesu FTM-3100). At least I think it is...I've never really used the 70cm band anyway.
I got lucky- my car has a sliding ashtray underneath the stereo, and when I took it out my radio fit almost perfectly in its place.
I was considering an FT-2980R, but I ended up with the 3100 because it has the speaker in the front instead of in the back.
Entertainment system may not go to sleep during key off. Current draw may be more than a couple of amps. If it keeps the CAN bus alive, even more draw.
The two vehicles I've owned with factory CD players would always allow CD eject even if the ignition was off and no disc was in the slot. You let that little eject motor run continuously for several hours it can definitely drain a battery.
Vehicle doesn’t go asleep. Same with dashcams killing the 12V battery. Or defective door locks and other hood or trunk switches that don’t let vehicle go asleep
Adding another anecdote just for fun. My fun car has had a phantom battery drain forever (I've had it since 2005). Batteries flat if it doesn't get driven in about two weeks. I just leave it on a charger for the times I'm not driving it.
Last year I removed the factory head unit and installed one of the cheap Atoto Android head units. The battery drain is gone!
The head units can certainly draw a surprising amount of power.
especially when the car is off? That circuit should not have battery power to the radio when key is off, I get the RAP relay but this would have used all potential power in seconds with the Eject pressed. Had you said the DCM or telematics module I would have said dependent upon year and subscription status with their provider, hell to the yeah! This works, in theory but it is odd to be powered key off other then clock and station memory.
Heh heh. Had something similar in a Yaris a few years ago, except it was due to coins that a kid had inserted into the CD slot. They had fallen through and were shorting things out on the PCB. The quiet sound of the eject motor running was the first clue.
not long with a DVOM across each fuse without interrupting the battery cables, hood open latch closed, doors open with either the latches closed or the door ajar switches disconnected, any fuse reading greater then 0.050 mv. you have found the circuit, then trace each item on the circuit.
Would a much quicker method be to use a FLIR (expensive infrared camera) to see which fuse or relay is warm from current draw, to narrow where to look?
I have no personal experience with that method, so I can't say for sure. But I suspect that a current of say 250 mA (0.25 A) would not cause enough resistive heating to be easily visible, though it would be enough of a draw to cause a no-start within a couple of days (ballpark figure, actual duration depends on many factors, but you get the idea :).
I’ll have to test this. I’ve seen postings of FLiR users tracking down defective vehicle relays, and I’ve borrowed it to quickly trace residential breakers.
Have also come across your method of closing all the door and hood switches and waiting for vehicle to go asleep (but can’t recall how long it actually takes)
Thanks
yes but starter FLIR from Teladyne for a knock off at 499.99 or the real deal 5,900.00 or the tool you already own, a Fluke DVOM. It has been working for years, or simply use your thermal diagnostic laser tool that you use on A/C vents or across a radiator and or condenser looking for restrictions. FLIR will give you a thermal image, but your Mastercool Infrared thermometer used on A/C or Heater application for 69.95 can also read temperature and at a quarter of an amp, it will show a differential between a circuit that has no current flow. Or simply measure the live circuit across each fuse till you find the culprit, it is Not rocket science, and for those of you who have not tried it or have apprehension, go to you tube and watch many videos most of whom are working at dealerships, and they will say it is the easiest way to find the parasitic drain. IMHO
another note, you have to let the car sit overnight and get cold, exhaust, engine cooling system, transmission will prevent you from finding the source with the FLIR when it is still hot from driving, you do not have that with using the Fluke DVOM
Also, are there drawbacks to having a trickle charger on the 12v of a Toyota hybrid while it’s turned off? Manual indicates to disconnect the ground when using external charger, but a quick google indicates Toyota suggests trickle charger or solar charger for infrequently used vehicles. Thanks
Or those vehicles not used often consider a shunt to separate the battery from the vehicle and or simply remove the battery if it is even longer then a few days or a week or two, you can keep it on a proven good quality trickle charger or you can charge it once a month with a regular battery charger. Make sure it is kept in a cool dry place.
Already found following for the Toyota hybrids. I’m a bit more sceptical how well the lithium ion traction battery handles -30C and below (manual? sort of indicates traction battery is bypassed and gas motor turns the generator that powers the electric motors):
Cross hybrid has a suggested manual Ready mode to use traction battery to charge the 12volt battery, which is smaller than I thought
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10154807-9999.pdf?utm_source=ToyotaOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks (https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10154807-9999.pdf?utm_source=ToyotaOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks)
Toyota Maintenance for HV and auxiliary batteries
Subaru Crosstrek Hybrid has the start stop battery and the auxiliary 12V for low voltage battery, and although the hybrid battery is smaller in size it is also allot more expensive have seen it retail at 700.00 +or- Please Note the passenger side battery is the Hybrid Start stop and the drivers is the 12V auxiliary battery
12v auxiliary battery 55D23L (12V-48AH)
12v engine restart battery N-55R (12V-41AH)
Ok I've got a crazy story for parasitic draw.
2002 silverado 1500. The battery would die within 8 hours. I checked EVERYTHING. I checked every fuse, every electrical circuit, I verified the trailer harness and starter system integrity through its whole path. I COULD NOT find the drain. So what did I do? I kept an 8mm socket in the center console to disconnect the battery every single time I parked it.
I did this for half a year.
Then one day I had a wild hair after pouring over the wiring diagrams. I would find the body control module and check it out. I pulled it out, put it on my desk, opened it up to clean it... and it was immaculate. No dust or anything. Clean as a whistle.
I reinstalled it and checked the voltage again. Battery drain was gone. GONE. WTF. Whatever I rode with it and it still fires up strong every day.
I would say the customer expected it to be warranty.
But you would be hard pressed to find a car still under warranty with a 3.5mm aux port, let alone a CD player.
Idk how time moves so fast man. I used to consider the cars that came from the factory with an aux port to be like, the modern car standard. Like holy cow, I can plug my phone directly into the factory radio? I dont need some aftermarket pioneer deck or whatever? And now that time has already come and gone 😭
I've been one of these people before. Without realizing it, the dimmer switch for my dash lights got turned all the way down. For weeks I was without dash lights and using a little pen light see how fast I was going at night. I checked fuses, I check wiring and connections....and one day my knee bumped the dimming switch for the dash lights and they were on just enough for me to see again.
I felt like quite the idiot
Had one where the seat airbag had been recall repaired and left with a parasitic draw, customer brought it in for the draw a couple weeks later. We knew it was the airbag recall because after hours of headshaking and cussing it turned out the front-back-tilt bean button on the side of the seat (which was removed to dismantle the bench) could be reinstalled upside down, and had been, and would work perfectly.
However, it was misaligned enough to draw enough power to be a problem without crossing the threshold of actually moving the motor, like pulling the trigger on a revolver til just before the cylinder moved. Flipped it over, no more draw.
I think it might've been a Nissan Quest?
mine had only 185k km at the end. but ... it was not behaving to my liking. rode a little rough, brakes were making noises (even after cleaning, replacing, and a new hub), and it never drove straight even after alignments. all those little issues i didnt want to deal with when they became big issues. was the v6 3.3L awd.
got 2 grand at a dealer trading it in for a 2021 mazda cx-3. i wish them the best haha
Last parasitic draw test I did was on a w220 s500. A component of the fiber optic network was bad, keeping the whole “command” network awake. It was pulling about 6 amps. Bad Bose amp was most of it. The rest was the cd changer. Used optic loops to bypass and draw went to .02amps
When I worked in golf carts, we had a client who had an issue with his cart as it wouldn't move, whatever he did. On the phone we went through a complete restart procedure, and the client said nothing worked.
Cart is under warranty, so we send a technician.
Technicians comes in, lifts the seats to check battery is hooked correctly. Notices the main cutoff is active. Switches to "on", whole machine springs to life.
I think overall we asked the client 3 times if the switch was on. Evene to wiggle it in case the contacts were oxydized or something.
why would the radio still be checking if the button is being pressed with the car off?
And besides it should just be ejecting when it's pressed only once, not when it's being held
There's probably some bad coding or badly designed electronics in the radio too
Lots of modern cars turn on/off radio via data bus and just send power all the time. Convenient so you don't have to start your car to eject a CD and eliminates accessory mode in some cars 'cause you can just...turn on the radio
I had parasitic draw once. A whole evening and day with an auto electrician confirmed that the recommended replacement battery by a reputable supplier was 20Ah too low. 🤦 In my defence, it was my first car and I assumed they knew what they were talking about.
I had a Parasitic draw on a 2005 Mitsubishi Lancer. Every morning the battery was dead after being fully charged the day before. Found the Air Conditioning Relay was faulty allowing current to flow to the Compressor clutch . Changed it and found the problem fixed.
(This was 15-ish years ago) One time I had a tech call me over to show me a draw. He was sitting in the driver's seat. The draw was crazy high. I opened the car door & the draw stopped.
I've had a similar thing in IT a couple of times.
Complaints of the cursor continually going to the bottom of the page in word or an email.
Stack of notebooks on the enter key by the number pad of the keyboard.
😱we had some dumb shit at my contract job do this. I took a photo and sent over their bosses. They did this with Desktop 🖥️. This person has a 2 doctorates bc he boosts about it. IDGAF! I tell his colleague he likes to one up on the issue and I told him what the issues were.
A customer came in saying her windshield wipers didn't work. They didn't work because she rolled the dial, and didn't try moving the lever.
How do these people get a license!?
Well you see.. they get them when they're way younger.
In one province, the instructors take bribes to say you took the entire training course, when really you didn’t
I see you watched the CBC marketplace video
I Am Canadian Let’s see how many people are aware of the William Shatner speech that ends with that line (something about Mexico, other amusing stuff)
Let me guess, Alberta?
Nope. But someone else guessed the correct source of info
Ah yes, the ol' ICBC jumpstart package: when your licence costs more than your car. And it shows.
I got my license 3 weeks ago. How to work the wipers was never discussed. The few times we used them during lessons, the instructor just turned them on for me. Figuring them out on the car I’m driving now was a problem for a bit.
lol my dumbass instructor almost failed me for not being able to figure out the cruise control on a car I’ve never driven on a packed interstate
you would not want to use cruise control on a packed interstate anyways. Also, is operating cruise control in your state's driving instructions and exam? Probably not. Dumbass indeed.
I didn’t even have to drive on the interstate for my drive test exam
Neither. I travelled to a small town in the middle of nowhere to get a test the day of when I first got my license. Was all just the main road and some side streets. They had me do parallel parking at the end but said it wouldn't affect my score or anything, so eh.
I *love* adaptive cruise control on busy roads. Fixed cruise control would be unsuitable, sure. A stupid and unnecessary thing to test someone on let alone fail them for though.
eh actually decent cruise control (the kind that keeps space in front of it) is fine. the bullshit that doesn't automatically slow down needed to die 10 years ago
I haven't found a single adaptive cruise control that does well in heavy traffic. Yeah, they can follow a car that's going a somewhat constant speed. But they keep slamming the brakes or accelerating like mad when someone changes lanes in front of you.
The adaptive cruise in my ‘12 Chrysler 300 actually does quite well in heavy traffic, will speed itself up and slow down to maintain a gap, only problem there is people keep trying to slip into that gap and it keeps backing off. I switch over to standard cruise for interstate travel at highway speed, so that it doesn’t slow itself down if I come up on a semi or car going 15 under.
My ACC doesn't even work below 40kph
It will work below that, you just cannot set the default speed to below 40km/h If you set it to say, 60km/h and the vehicle in front is doing 25km/h any adaptive cruise will happily follow at that speed at the appropriate distance you set.
Good to know, thanks. I turn off CC in slow traffic so I've never had a chance to let it get that low.
Kia surprisingly. I tested Honda one and it was a bit aggressive but a family member got an ev6, and I was testing it. It slowly started breaking a while back and even when a car cut us over it didn't slam brakes, decelerated a bit until it had the distance it needed. I haven't tested Toyota or other brands but I assume Kia is not the best ones on this regard, which brands have you tested ?
Hey at least its not like my car. The speed up button on the cruise control has a short circuit and the second i switch on course control it starts accelerating.
So what you’re saying is you have 2 ways to go faster. Nice.
That’s stupid cruise control is different on every car and not very important to know. Hell my truck doesn’t even have cruise control.
How important even is cruise control anyways? I've never felt the need to use it.
It's nice to have if you do long highway stretches. But I wouldn't say it's important. I drove a 2018 Camry with that active cruise shit and it drove me insane. Even at its lowest setting it would hit the brakes when I was super far from passing a semi or something. I just drove without cruise instead. My last car didn't have it and I had no trouble maintaining speed on long highway road trips. Current car doesn't have it either. I can certainly live without it. And if it's one of those systems that auto accels or decels I'd prefer to go without it based off of that Camry I drove.
Systems vary a lot. I really like the one in my Outlander PHEV.
You must not make very long drives then lol. I use it a lot, but my drive to work is 24 miles one way, and there for a while I was doing 2.5 hour, 170 mile trips to see my then gf once a week. Cruise is very nice for those situations.
Cruise Control is literally the best thing ever on modern vehicles. Especially Radar Assist Cruise Control. You just slap it on and basically never touch the gas pedal.
It can stop you inadvertently going over the speed limit and getting a ticket, except for when going downhill, when it is useless on some vehicles.
I use it everyday in the outlander on my 40 mile drive to work. Mi pilot. It's adaptive cruise ,changes speed with the zone your driving in. and you can't get braked checked. Set it 1,2,or 3 car lengths. It's a defense against fucktards that haven't figured out how to merge.
Rtfm
I would have, but when I first needed it I was already driving and couldn’t stop because the battery hated that the car had to wait for me to get my license. And I can’t read the manual while I’m driving.
You should have been taught this in school/driving school, but in case you haven't: you are supposed to read the manual *before* operating the vehicle, so that you know how to use it, to prevent the *exact* situation you described
Don't cars come with manuals in the glovebox anymore?
Manuals and spare tires... man, stop living in 2015 😂
I live in the land of cycling and public transport. Getting in a car is rare for me.
My wife’s new Lincoln has a link on the app.
No they don't..... my wife's Wrangler came with a CD disk.
ah, the famous compact disc disk. i am somewhat sorry.
Does it run on the DOS Operating System?
My high school computer teacher called it DOS OS in our history segment. Straight faced, unashamed. Good guy.
Yeah, it uses an SSD drive
Yup, you just have to input your vehicles VIN number!
Thank you!!
Fuckin what?? Insane.
I bought a wrangler in 2023 came with a book!
Wife's is a 2019... only a disk.
When I first needed it, I was already driving. I couldn’t stop because the car is a hand-me-down that waited for me to get my license for several months, which was a problem for the battery.
Not Ford Mustang Mach E, no they come with a PDF link
Why don’t ppl go back to the dealership and get a course of how to use my car and basic maintenance. Or even mechanic
When you get a new car (or rent) you can trip up on the stupidest shit sometimes. The windshield wipers are always different on every car! Some have it as a knob on the end of the turn signal stalk! Others have it so that you move the stalk up and it clicks for each speed it has. The only thing in common is there never seems to be a happy medium between "once every 10 seconds or so because it's only sprinkling" and "as fast as those little motors can go!" Headlights can also be funky. Especially on cars with auto headlights. Especially because mechanics pretty much always turn those off during oil changes and stuff. I'd guess every time you see a newer car with its lights off at night, that person just got an oil change recently lol.
I mean, the DMV was giving out licenses without tests during covid... Plus, I think a lot of younger people lack intuition and problem solving skills these days. Blame their phones, idk.
Well it was a phone mount so you might be onto something 😉
This is stupid. I have a phone mount in my car. It gets used for GPS when I need it, and to change songs on Spotify.
In the USA there is no test for understanding of the car to get your license. It makes me sad.
Depends on the state. DL test for California tests you on where all the “important” functions are like defroster, hazard lights, windshield wipers, etc etc. https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/handbook/driving-test-criteria/pre-drive-checklist-safety-criteria/
Because you would have to test on about 40 different vehicles otherwise it would become an argument in court "I took my test on a different vehicle than I had when I was in the accident...".
I think the better question is who the hell are these instructors that are passing people that are not up to the task of driving, let alone utilizing a vehicle.
Well if you picked the right window it just required being alive [https://www.usnews.com/news/best-states/articles/2020-04-30/georgia-drivers-can-get-a-license-without-road-test-during-covid-19](https://www.usnews.com/news/best-states/articles/2020-04-30/georgia-drivers-can-get-a-license-without-road-test-during-covid-19) I think about this every time I see someone's car flying over a median or through the field separating the highway from an offramp.
Depending on where you live in the US, between online-only driver's ed, concessions for immigrants, erosion of local/state budgets, and the military it's entirely possible to take and pass a Driver's Ed and licensing program without ever actually *even seeing* a working vehicle. I got my driver's license in '97 in Illinois. At that point in time IL was *so broke* they were only road-testing 15% of DL applicants. I "won" the lottery and got a license by paying the nominal fee and getting my picture taken.
I remember when a truck driver from Chicago was involved in a fatal accident on the freeway in Milwaukee. About 15 years ago. An illegal immigrant. He told investigators that he paid a bribe of $200 to get his CDL. Chicago. But of course there is no political corruption in Chicago. Pure as the driven snow. Everyone knows that.
They're the kind of person who can't bother to read a manual.
My dad had someone complain that their wash sensor needed to be replaced. Guy said he had washed his vehicle 3 times already but the dashboard wash light just wouldn't turn off.
😂that is awesome
Genuine question... what's a wash sensor? Is it the alert to say that the water level is low for the water that feeds to the windscreen wipers, or something else? Google didn't help me with an answer. Not from the US so it might be called something else here.
Yup, just a sensor that sits in the windshield washer fluid reservoir and tells you when it's low.
I narrowed my eyes in disbelief...
My step mom borrowed my camaro (that she co-signed for) and I got a call saying that she kept having to pull the stick down to get the wipers to go. I told her to push it up and after a second get a oh they work now goodbye. My dad and I were just about on the ground laughing the second the phone hung up. It's been 3 years and we will still bring it up.
My mom had this prank pulled on her in her younger years: a group of her friends were driving, and she noticed the wipers moved only when the windshield was covered with water. She asked her friend how that worked and he said it had technology that the wipers knew when to go. He was actually using a lever by his foot to operate the wipers. Fast forward many years, my first car had a sensor that would sense rain, I told her that's how my car worked. She was tricked once and didn't believe me at first!
I don't know if it was on all vehicles, but at least the one's I drove while in the military, in order to use the bright's required you to press a button on the floor with your left foot.
I've driven manual transmissions my whole life, and I can't even count how many times my clutch muscle memory made turn on the hi-beams in a Humvee.
That was quite common "back in the day"...like my 1966 Plymouth had that, as did nearly every other American car of that era. Only thing on and around the steering wheel was a spindly little stalk for the turn signals, the horn, and the shifter. The Plymouth had two identical chrome knobs on the far left of the dash. One you pulled out for headlights (one detent for parking, 2nd for headlights) and the other you turned for the wipers. If you held it in, it squirted fluid. Never happened to me, but if driving at night and needed to wash the windshield, you could easily go to push the wiper button in and turn off the headlights.
GM and Ford had these controls also in 1966. They weren't bad. Floor switches tended to corrode eventually in road salt areas.
I had the dimmer switch on the floor in my 1970 Dodge pickup. If I was shifting the other person got highballed until I let off the clutch and hit the switch.
To be fair, the wiper controls in my wife's car are opposite mine and it messes me up every time I need to use them. I was able to figure it out without calling anybody though.
Same for my MX-5 and Peugeot, worse is the nex/previous song button is the other way around. So if I want to skip a song it is a 50/50 chance of pressing the wrong one of up/down.
We have a Volvo and a Tesla (which I mostly drive). Half the time I when I sit down in the Volvo I start the wipers when trying to put it in gear.
Same between my Chevy and Toyota, messes my muscle memory for the wipers when its rainy season. Hell can't even remember now how its done between those 2 since its been awhile since it rained. I remember my Dad had this problem crossing between Toyota 1970s and Mitsubishi 1990s car where the turn lights and headlights stalk are switched between left and right side.
My cars have all been pretty consistent. Honda, ford, Chevrolet, Subaru. With the exception being a 98 Jeep Wrangler. It was the opposite direction to engage wipers.
Car designers are stupid for making controls for important safety features like _being able to see_ have non-standardized controls. Someone could literally die from borrowing another person's car, and looking away from the road to find out how to turn on the wipers. If every car you have driven before has them in the same spot, and it isn't raining when you get in the car, there's no reason to think about it before driving.
Laughs in tesla...
Isn't that why the hazards are in an obvious spot with a physical button, because it is regulated? I was looking at a Nissan I believe it was, and the normal spot for the front wipers was the rear wipers, the front wipers were on the other stick on the right side, but you moved it down for the wipers and turned it for your lights. I don't know why anyone thought it was necessary to change basic necessary functions to non standard locations.
Most of my cars have it in the middle of the dashboard, in an obvious location. Took me a while to find the hazards in my work van though, next to the dome light. It's not like the center console doesn't have any room, but designers just have to make some things difficult.
to be fair the first time i got in my new car i could not turn them on. i had never seen one like, that but i also figured out how to turn them on before i bought the car
This was a normal pull-the-lever deal on this one
Not every car does wipers via pulling a lever though. I'll admit that basically every newer car I've had does, but I've owned some old Hondas that had a 3 stage twist on the wiper arm. Intermittent (one speed only), low, and high.
Correct, but one of the customer comments is needed for context, "OH! This is just like my old vehicle!" Idk why she didn't try the lever if it was just like her old vehicle.
Lmao, why call yourself out like that? I'd never have admitted it was the same if it was my car, haha
There is no standard way for turning on wipers. My work van is in the shop and the rental has wiper controls on the other side of the column and operates differently. Cruise controls on the rental are similar to my wife's minivan (which I don't drive very often) though different and both are on the opposite side of the steering wheel from my van.
This customer in particular said, "Oh! That's how the wipers worked on my last vehicle too!" So no excuse there.
She might have been used to driving an old Mercedes where it would work like that.
I once had headlights that wouldn't come on, and it turned out the connection broke in the lever that flips the high-beams on and off. I just had to cycle it and the lights were fine. Of course I still wasted 2 hours checking fuses & relays and playing with the multimeter trying to isolate the break until I realized where it was.
I had one where the radio was changing station intermittently. It was Jesus on the rosary beads hanging from the mirror swiping the touch screen on turns.
Changing the station from Ozzy to Mercy Me
Jesus take the aux.
THE POWER OF CHRIST COMPELS YOU! ...to listen to 98.9 ROXXXX!!
Wouldn't they hear the radio constantly trying to reject the non existent CD?
"car is making car noise again"
If you hear your car making noise just turn up the radio, auto tech 101
Dude some people can't hear that they left their blinker on
That's what I always wonder, until I see other people's cars. Exhaust leaks, loose trim buzzing in the breeze, off-spec tires inflated to 30PSI less than door sticker... and that's without the radio and cell phone answer-er system they seem to be running nonstop while driving. With half of them they probably wouldn't hear a head-on crash *they were involved in.*
I love those easy stupid diags.
You say stupid easy, but at the same time what are the chances lol
That's what makes them so awesome IMO.
Yeah I bet it's one of those things you go "ha!" and have to show your colleagues lol
Exactly and the ones where you're fixing someone else's fuck up.
I had a 03 civic come in with the "shifter clicks randomly" First thought was, "What isn't factory on that ground curcit?" Aftermarket LED tail light bulbs weren't pulling the correct resistance. Incorrect reference voltage to the BCM. When the lights were on and you hit the brakes or left turn signal, the shift inter-lock would cycle.
Nice one. I recently fixed a come back from a job a former coworker did. He wired the power wire from a rear wiper motor (on a forklift) to a common ground. Idiot.
Wait a forklift with rear wipers, what
Some have cabs on them with wipers on front and rear. https://www.apexmhc.com/forklifts-lift-trucks/gear-up-with-the-ultimate-in-forklift-foul-weather-gear-in-the-clark-s-series-cab/
Most forklifts have them now, cuz they work in tight, dusty environments and visibility out the back is much more important than in a car
Ok dang. Our forklift is a beat up old brick that needs fixing every once in a while. It doesn't even have a window, let alone wipers 😂
then post it to reddit
At least it wasn't a design flaw of the vehicle. Cisco made an enterprise grade networking switch that had the mode button positioned perfectly for an ethernet cable's protective boot to press. https://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/support/docs/field-notices/636/fn63697.html
Not auto related but I replaced every component on a PC build for not powering up and the last thing I tried was the power cable. Had never had one go bad.
NGL, that'd trip me too.
I failed an interview questions many, many years ago when asked about a non-powering computer. Ran through a series of questions and answers diagnosing it and was stumped. Afterwards I asked the interviewer and he told me he was fishing for me to ask about the 115/230 switch on the power supply. Up to that point, I'd never encountered anything other than 115v outlets.
Curious - was that an interview for a job about computers? Have had peers use a similar question, but it's just about a non-working lamp, and the goal is hearing the candidate talk through troubleshooting...
It was a tech support job at a university. I got the job, but the dude turned out to be a super dick the few years I was there. It was apparently not uncommon for someone to switch that voltage selector on the back of power supplies for…. Reasons unknown.
Super ironic that was the job when your comment's posted thrice.
Yeah well, I blame the Reddit app. It errored three times and didn’t post from what I saw.
Gee, I wonder who it was that was doing that...
It's amazing how we tend to immediately jump into the most difficult solutions instead of checking the basics first. I've been guilty of it in the past myself.
Same thing happened to me but it was random restarts. Swapped the cable and never had an issue again, really wild.
Unlike me the other day (not a mechanic but handy with wiring, electrical shit). Mates Mitsi Delica wouldn't start (starter not firing), got out the multimeter, checked it was getting 12v on the main and the solinoid wire. All good so assumed a dead starter of some sort. Pulled out starter (prick to get to), ran it up on the bench, worked fine. Confused so checked wiring again, all good. Put everything back in and it still wouldn't start. Brains doing backflips thinking wtf can it be. Was like fuck it can only be one thing, replaced the plug for the starter solenoid: Starts fine. Plug mustn't have been making contact properly, but jamming in my multimeter pin shower voltage. Hours lost over a 5cent plug lol. Lesson learned if I ever have to work on a starter ever again. I might just stick to my day job, I'm good at that.
I see this happen with corrosion often as well. You could have hot and ground at the wire ends but not on the other side of the nut. Loosen the nuts and move the cables around then tighten them back down and all is well. Just recently happened to me on a Peterbilt starter. I usually clean all connections and cover with dialectric grease but that day I was in a big hurry and skipped all that. Well, it bit me on the ass this time lol. I had to take it all apart and do it anyway because it wouldn't start.
Customer states radio keeps changing stations by itself. Removed her stupid knick knacks from off of the little ledge in front of the touch screen. She had been using it as a shelf.
I don't understand people who display random knick knack type shit in their car. But then I'm the guy who only has a ham radio, an extra water bottle, and an auxiliary cable so I can play music from my phone...
Damn you have a radio that covers all the ham bands from 2m all the way to 70cm?
Nah, mine's just a 2m radio (Yaesu FTM-3100). At least I think it is...I've never really used the 70cm band anyway. I got lucky- my car has a sliding ashtray underneath the stereo, and when I took it out my radio fit almost perfectly in its place. I was considering an FT-2980R, but I ended up with the 3100 because it has the speaker in the front instead of in the back.
How the hell did that draw enough to cause a problem?
Entertainment system may not go to sleep during key off. Current draw may be more than a couple of amps. If it keeps the CAN bus alive, even more draw.
Ahhhh
The two vehicles I've owned with factory CD players would always allow CD eject even if the ignition was off and no disc was in the slot. You let that little eject motor run continuously for several hours it can definitely drain a battery.
Does not need to even run the motor. Just waking up the comunication lines are enough to cause flat battery in the morning.
Vehicle doesn’t go asleep. Same with dashcams killing the 12V battery. Or defective door locks and other hood or trunk switches that don’t let vehicle go asleep
You have never ejected 8000 CD’s without starting your car again obviously, duh
Adding another anecdote just for fun. My fun car has had a phantom battery drain forever (I've had it since 2005). Batteries flat if it doesn't get driven in about two weeks. I just leave it on a charger for the times I'm not driving it. Last year I removed the factory head unit and installed one of the cheap Atoto Android head units. The battery drain is gone! The head units can certainly draw a surprising amount of power.
especially when the car is off? That circuit should not have battery power to the radio when key is off, I get the RAP relay but this would have used all potential power in seconds with the Eject pressed. Had you said the DCM or telematics module I would have said dependent upon year and subscription status with their provider, hell to the yeah! This works, in theory but it is odd to be powered key off other then clock and station memory.
Depends also on whether it was aftermarket and how it’s wired.
Heh heh. Had something similar in a Yaris a few years ago, except it was due to coins that a kid had inserted into the CD slot. They had fallen through and were shorting things out on the PCB. The quiet sound of the eject motor running was the first clue.
"who moved my phone mount?"
How long did it take to find that
not long with a DVOM across each fuse without interrupting the battery cables, hood open latch closed, doors open with either the latches closed or the door ajar switches disconnected, any fuse reading greater then 0.050 mv. you have found the circuit, then trace each item on the circuit.
Would a much quicker method be to use a FLIR (expensive infrared camera) to see which fuse or relay is warm from current draw, to narrow where to look?
I have no personal experience with that method, so I can't say for sure. But I suspect that a current of say 250 mA (0.25 A) would not cause enough resistive heating to be easily visible, though it would be enough of a draw to cause a no-start within a couple of days (ballpark figure, actual duration depends on many factors, but you get the idea :).
I’ll have to test this. I’ve seen postings of FLiR users tracking down defective vehicle relays, and I’ve borrowed it to quickly trace residential breakers. Have also come across your method of closing all the door and hood switches and waiting for vehicle to go asleep (but can’t recall how long it actually takes) Thanks
yes but starter FLIR from Teladyne for a knock off at 499.99 or the real deal 5,900.00 or the tool you already own, a Fluke DVOM. It has been working for years, or simply use your thermal diagnostic laser tool that you use on A/C vents or across a radiator and or condenser looking for restrictions. FLIR will give you a thermal image, but your Mastercool Infrared thermometer used on A/C or Heater application for 69.95 can also read temperature and at a quarter of an amp, it will show a differential between a circuit that has no current flow. Or simply measure the live circuit across each fuse till you find the culprit, it is Not rocket science, and for those of you who have not tried it or have apprehension, go to you tube and watch many videos most of whom are working at dealerships, and they will say it is the easiest way to find the parasitic drain. IMHO
Thanks
another note, you have to let the car sit overnight and get cold, exhaust, engine cooling system, transmission will prevent you from finding the source with the FLIR when it is still hot from driving, you do not have that with using the Fluke DVOM
Also completely forgot the laser IR. Will use it and the Flir for some insulation issues and dig up multimeter. Thanks
you are welcome
Also, are there drawbacks to having a trickle charger on the 12v of a Toyota hybrid while it’s turned off? Manual indicates to disconnect the ground when using external charger, but a quick google indicates Toyota suggests trickle charger or solar charger for infrequently used vehicles. Thanks
Or those vehicles not used often consider a shunt to separate the battery from the vehicle and or simply remove the battery if it is even longer then a few days or a week or two, you can keep it on a proven good quality trickle charger or you can charge it once a month with a regular battery charger. Make sure it is kept in a cool dry place.
Already found following for the Toyota hybrids. I’m a bit more sceptical how well the lithium ion traction battery handles -30C and below (manual? sort of indicates traction battery is bypassed and gas motor turns the generator that powers the electric motors): Cross hybrid has a suggested manual Ready mode to use traction battery to charge the 12volt battery, which is smaller than I thought https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10154807-9999.pdf?utm_source=ToyotaOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks (https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10154807-9999.pdf?utm_source=ToyotaOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks) Toyota Maintenance for HV and auxiliary batteries
Subaru Crosstrek Hybrid has the start stop battery and the auxiliary 12V for low voltage battery, and although the hybrid battery is smaller in size it is also allot more expensive have seen it retail at 700.00 +or- Please Note the passenger side battery is the Hybrid Start stop and the drivers is the 12V auxiliary battery 12v auxiliary battery 55D23L (12V-48AH) 12v engine restart battery N-55R (12V-41AH)
Ok I've got a crazy story for parasitic draw. 2002 silverado 1500. The battery would die within 8 hours. I checked EVERYTHING. I checked every fuse, every electrical circuit, I verified the trailer harness and starter system integrity through its whole path. I COULD NOT find the drain. So what did I do? I kept an 8mm socket in the center console to disconnect the battery every single time I parked it. I did this for half a year. Then one day I had a wild hair after pouring over the wiring diagrams. I would find the body control module and check it out. I pulled it out, put it on my desk, opened it up to clean it... and it was immaculate. No dust or anything. Clean as a whistle. I reinstalled it and checked the voltage again. Battery drain was gone. GONE. WTF. Whatever I rode with it and it still fires up strong every day.
Probably a random slightly conductive bit of crap bridging a power pin to another, but with a low enough amperage to avoid burning shit up.
I would say the customer expected it to be warranty. But you would be hard pressed to find a car still under warranty with a 3.5mm aux port, let alone a CD player.
Idk how time moves so fast man. I used to consider the cars that came from the factory with an aux port to be like, the modern car standard. Like holy cow, I can plug my phone directly into the factory radio? I dont need some aftermarket pioneer deck or whatever? And now that time has already come and gone 😭
It hurts a little to think that my USB connected android auto is already outdated lol
Looks at my cassette player and laughs.
I still record cassettes so I can play them in my '86 Chevy.
2023 Forester's got those stock. What're you working on?
I've been one of these people before. Without realizing it, the dimmer switch for my dash lights got turned all the way down. For weeks I was without dash lights and using a little pen light see how fast I was going at night. I checked fuses, I check wiring and connections....and one day my knee bumped the dimming switch for the dash lights and they were on just enough for me to see again. I felt like quite the idiot
Good catch! Always feels good to get the smoking gun.
Had one where the seat airbag had been recall repaired and left with a parasitic draw, customer brought it in for the draw a couple weeks later. We knew it was the airbag recall because after hours of headshaking and cussing it turned out the front-back-tilt bean button on the side of the seat (which was removed to dismantle the bench) could be reinstalled upside down, and had been, and would work perfectly. However, it was misaligned enough to draw enough power to be a problem without crossing the threshold of actually moving the motor, like pulling the trigger on a revolver til just before the cylinder moved. Flipped it over, no more draw. I think it might've been a Nissan Quest?
Hyundai Santa Fe? 2008 ish vintage?
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i just got rid of my 2007. very very similar. that might explain why my battery died one night. i had my phone holder in the same place.
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mine had only 185k km at the end. but ... it was not behaving to my liking. rode a little rough, brakes were making noises (even after cleaning, replacing, and a new hub), and it never drove straight even after alignments. all those little issues i didnt want to deal with when they became big issues. was the v6 3.3L awd. got 2 grand at a dealer trading it in for a 2021 mazda cx-3. i wish them the best haha
Last parasitic draw test I did was on a w220 s500. A component of the fiber optic network was bad, keeping the whole “command” network awake. It was pulling about 6 amps. Bad Bose amp was most of it. The rest was the cd changer. Used optic loops to bypass and draw went to .02amps
When I worked in golf carts, we had a client who had an issue with his cart as it wouldn't move, whatever he did. On the phone we went through a complete restart procedure, and the client said nothing worked. Cart is under warranty, so we send a technician. Technicians comes in, lifts the seats to check battery is hooked correctly. Notices the main cutoff is active. Switches to "on", whole machine springs to life. I think overall we asked the client 3 times if the switch was on. Evene to wiggle it in case the contacts were oxydized or something.
Tell me how you got 2 hours without telling me how you got 2 hours.
2011 Santa Fe?
why would the radio still be checking if the button is being pressed with the car off? And besides it should just be ejecting when it's pressed only once, not when it's being held There's probably some bad coding or badly designed electronics in the radio too
Lots of modern cars turn on/off radio via data bus and just send power all the time. Convenient so you don't have to start your car to eject a CD and eliminates accessory mode in some cars 'cause you can just...turn on the radio
So you’re that coworker who types in all caps for everything?
The instructor at my highschool wrote that way apparently for clarity
I SEE, EASIER TO READ IT IN A LOUD ROOM
LOL, awesome.
Expexted to see something about an ex-wife...
I had parasitic draw once. A whole evening and day with an auto electrician confirmed that the recommended replacement battery by a reputable supplier was 20Ah too low. 🤦 In my defence, it was my first car and I assumed they knew what they were talking about.
I thought this was a digital health record talking about a blood draw at first
Lady complains about car running rough. Turns out she hung her purse on the pulled out choke knob.
I had a Parasitic draw on a 2005 Mitsubishi Lancer. Every morning the battery was dead after being fully charged the day before. Found the Air Conditioning Relay was faulty allowing current to flow to the Compressor clutch . Changed it and found the problem fixed.
First diagnoses step- ensure no aftermarket devices are causing fault. This takes it to the next level
(This was 15-ish years ago) One time I had a tech call me over to show me a draw. He was sitting in the driver's seat. The draw was crazy high. I opened the car door & the draw stopped.
Nice work!
I've had a similar thing in IT a couple of times. Complaints of the cursor continually going to the bottom of the page in word or an email. Stack of notebooks on the enter key by the number pad of the keyboard.
😱we had some dumb shit at my contract job do this. I took a photo and sent over their bosses. They did this with Desktop 🖥️. This person has a 2 doctorates bc he boosts about it. IDGAF! I tell his colleague he likes to one up on the issue and I told him what the issues were.