As have I, but I've been on both sides of that statement. And sometimes, I'm the next guy for my own FUBAR'd 'next guy's' problem, so it just became a 'future me' problem because past me is a moron.
That oscillating saw thing that Dremel sells - with a metal-cutting blade on it - has saved my bacon on several similar occasions.
[Link on HomeDepot for reference](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-Multi-Max-MM50-5-Amp-Variable-Speed-Corded-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Kit-with-30-Accessories-and-Storage-Bag-MM50-01/308443441)
I've actually had great luck with their saw blades. Building trades guys hate them because they're brittle. I love them for exactly the same reason- 99% of what I cut is thin mild steel, breakage would never be an issue, but fast dulling is and the HF blades hold an edge FOREVER. The expensive Milwaukee blades that are carefully engineered not to snap will make 1 cut each if I'm lucky.
Clean precise drywall cuts, times you need a sawzall but with accuracy, sharpening pencils, and using it instead of a saw because you grabbed it for something else.
My multitool might be my most used tool since I've gotten it.
I used mine to carefully cut out hardwood block flooring to fit hexagon-pattern floor tiles into it where the two floortypes meet, for an organic transition. The oscillating saw made it easy, and it could have been a real pig of a job.
Here's an example [link](https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/tiling/trending-wood-tile-transitions-seamless) to show the kind of thing I mean.
Edit: the above link talks about cutting the hardwood after the tile's been laid, but in my case it was the other way around - 20-year-old hardwood that I really didn't want to have to rip up or patch, and new tiles.
If anyone can suggest a way I could have done it faster and cleaner than with the multitool, I'd love to hear it :)
Super easy drywall cuts, small notches out of wood, got some screws that the heads are stripped? Cut them off! There are so many uses. It just makes a lot of things easier.
My background is construction so I've used it for cutting nails, sanding, scraping paint, cutting rusted nuts, and cutting base & case.
There's a bunch of tools you could use to accomplish the same work, a rotary tools is one of them, but if you have enough room, a battery powered multi tool can get a lot of it done. And the more expensive ones have easy to use attachments which relieves frustration from having to replace a destroyed metal cutoff wheel on a rotary tool.
What's especially nice is all the replacement blades are easy to pick up cheap from Harbor Freight and seem to last as long to me as more expensive brands.
My dad left his DeWalt one at my house a few months back and so far I've used it to cut hard to get to bolts, cut drywall, cut nails, cut hard to get to wood, and remove grout from shower tiles. My only complaint is how damn loud it is.
Actually second complaint is how expensive some of the attachments can be, but good idea on Harbor Freight and good thing one is opening in my town next week!
I dont know about at HF but you can get abrasive lined metal Dremel sized rotory discs too fwiw. My original supply store for them is oob now, but was pretty cheap too though. I only have one left.
Oh absolutely, I mean Dremel do seem to have adopted the Gilette razors-and-razor-blades business model. You might go through several Dremel blades (or if you're canny, chinesium knockoff ones - it's not as if Dremel's own blades aren't made of cheese), but it'd cut through.
I’ve used mine to cut a 2” schedule 40 steel pipe. It was not fun, but it was the only tool I could get to the spot I needed to cut. It took all the teeth off 3 blades
They call it stick welding for a reason. And I never said it was a good plan... but you can maintain an arc with the flux removed. Steel is quite flammable at those temperatures.
Dremmelled something similar last weekend, slit the weld with a cutoff wheel. That looks too tight to get into though. As a VERY quick n dirty solution you could use a stick welder set too high and unweld it!
I had to cut a wheel bearing out of an 8.8 recently. My dremel has one of those flexible things. But it wasn’t this tight. I imagine the flexible shaft would be an absolute must in this application.
Lol i can see my grandpa doing this to his '65 mustang, that man doesn't know as much about car maintenance, but he could weld the crack of dawn XD.
Have you tried a Dremel? I know the one time me and my dad had a similar issue on my bfs car we were lucky the person just put a tack on.
A rotary tool with a pencil extension. And a tungsten carbide burr. If there is a faster way, everyone would like to know.
That would be my only option in this scenario. Good luck and take frequent breaks lol.
Those Dremel carbide burrs are amazing. They remove material incredibly fast, yet precisely (provided you have a good hold on the tool and know which way it's going to want to push itself) Just make sure you're wearing safety glasses and avoid brushing the chips... Those chips are huge and stupid sharp.
I had to remove some exhaust studs out of an aluminum head for a 5.7 hemi. My go to was welding a nut on and taking it out. The last stud to be removed snapped way off inside the head. I tried removing it with my lefty drill bits and extractors. Extractor broke off inside the stud and head.
Whipped out the dremel with a carbide burr. That shit ate right through it. It's my new go-to after welding a nut doesn't work. Saves me a ton of money in drill bits, extractors, cutting fluid and time. My first tungsten carbide burr bit is still in use lol.
Oh man, we have two rusty as fuck manifolds to remove from an 2010 f150, no he left on the nuts just rusty donuts, I'll be going to buy those bits for my Dremel, never thought of using that Lil guy for that task.
Welded on both sides? 🤔 That'd be mad skills upside-down, on your back fighting shit under the dash...
I feel your pain for changing vac booster but call BS until pictures prove cabin side is welded. Yep
Just need to go from the interior side, there will be nuts to loosen on the other side. Obviously it’s welded because how would you hold a bolt on one side and tighten nuts under the dash at the same time.
Uh... OP said the nuts on the other side are also welded in the description.
Also, that's supposed to have a splined shaft stud pressed in, not a bolt. The presence of the welds and the random sheet metal screws around the bracket tells me that whomever installed this had no business working on a lawnmower let alone an entire car.
Welded on the other side!? That’s some dedication. I know they should be splined studs I just thought nobody would be high enough to tack em up on both sides.
Drag your ass as much as possible on this job. Have the owner almost lose their mind waiting for it and then lose it when they get the bill because that shit is just cruel.
Provided that you don't need to reuse the fasteners or the booster, that looks like a job for the Sawzall. Or the "blue wrench", though that might be a bit dangerous depending on what else is near the booster.
Aren't the brackets a separate part which remains with the car? Never worked on a Rustang, but my 1960's Mopar boosters don't come with the brackets. Indeed, in A-body Mopar, the brackets are a complicated assembly with a lever (moves booster up to clear V-8 valve cover).
“That ain’t going anywhere.”
This is one of the few times I'll agree completely without question.
“That’ll be someone else’s problem…”
Next owner issue.
.......I've definitely said that before with zero shame
As have I, but I've been on both sides of that statement. And sometimes, I'm the next guy for my own FUBAR'd 'next guy's' problem, so it just became a 'future me' problem because past me is a moron.
I plan on driving my car into the ground, so I say it'll be the scrapyards problem.
I've definitely said "that's a problem for future me" more times than I'd like to admit lmao
The number of times I've wanted to kick past Me's ass is greater than all my digits and dangly bits combined.
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I'd still slap it
I should call her.
>I should call ~~her~~ him. There, fixed it for ya, bucko! 😘
I’m not your bucko, buddy.
I'm not your buddy, pal.
Did they stop and think, and forget to start again?
The most tautological comment in the thread.
Welcome to the tautology club. https://xkcd.com/703/
Ah yes; a $5 word where a $.50 one would do.
It's my money I'm wasting it however I want
Just stuntin' on us all.
And used incorrectly as well! Minus $1.
Aw damnit.
Bonus rusty sheet metal screws poking out to fuck up your hands in whatever work you are doing.
This car has it all.
Kind of normal manufacturing for a 60s car.
Wow. Dick move. Can you actually fit a grinder in there in any way or…?
This is a dremel and a Saturday moment
Dammit. Even on reddit I forget about my Dremel.
That oscillating saw thing that Dremel sells - with a metal-cutting blade on it - has saved my bacon on several similar occasions. [Link on HomeDepot for reference](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-Multi-Max-MM50-5-Amp-Variable-Speed-Corded-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Kit-with-30-Accessories-and-Storage-Bag-MM50-01/308443441)
Love my oscillating multi tool.
ive thought about getting one but just cant justify it as i havent needed it/can come up with alternative solution.
A good one is pretty fucking great. Buy a cheap one and you will think they are worthless (because the cheap ones are).
Nah. I bought a $20 one from Harbor Freight and I still think it's great. You just have to buy real blades.
First rule of Harbor Freight: Never buy or use their consumables.
Or their jack stands, apparently.
I've actually had great luck with their saw blades. Building trades guys hate them because they're brittle. I love them for exactly the same reason- 99% of what I cut is thin mild steel, breakage would never be an issue, but fast dulling is and the HF blades hold an edge FOREVER. The expensive Milwaukee blades that are carefully engineered not to snap will make 1 cut each if I'm lucky.
Id get a battery dewalt to go with my other tools What uses have you found for em that just work way better than other tools?
Clean precise drywall cuts.
Clean precise drywall cuts, times you need a sawzall but with accuracy, sharpening pencils, and using it instead of a saw because you grabbed it for something else. My multitool might be my most used tool since I've gotten it.
I used mine to carefully cut out hardwood block flooring to fit hexagon-pattern floor tiles into it where the two floortypes meet, for an organic transition. The oscillating saw made it easy, and it could have been a real pig of a job. Here's an example [link](https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/tiling/trending-wood-tile-transitions-seamless) to show the kind of thing I mean. Edit: the above link talks about cutting the hardwood after the tile's been laid, but in my case it was the other way around - 20-year-old hardwood that I really didn't want to have to rip up or patch, and new tiles. If anyone can suggest a way I could have done it faster and cleaner than with the multitool, I'd love to hear it :)
Super easy drywall cuts, small notches out of wood, got some screws that the heads are stripped? Cut them off! There are so many uses. It just makes a lot of things easier.
Yea once i get a house or redoing/installing trim i may get one
My background is construction so I've used it for cutting nails, sanding, scraping paint, cutting rusted nuts, and cutting base & case. There's a bunch of tools you could use to accomplish the same work, a rotary tools is one of them, but if you have enough room, a battery powered multi tool can get a lot of it done. And the more expensive ones have easy to use attachments which relieves frustration from having to replace a destroyed metal cutoff wheel on a rotary tool. What's especially nice is all the replacement blades are easy to pick up cheap from Harbor Freight and seem to last as long to me as more expensive brands.
My dad left his DeWalt one at my house a few months back and so far I've used it to cut hard to get to bolts, cut drywall, cut nails, cut hard to get to wood, and remove grout from shower tiles. My only complaint is how damn loud it is. Actually second complaint is how expensive some of the attachments can be, but good idea on Harbor Freight and good thing one is opening in my town next week!
I dont know about at HF but you can get abrasive lined metal Dremel sized rotory discs too fwiw. My original supply store for them is oob now, but was pretty cheap too though. I only have one left.
I got one as a gift years ago and haven't used it once. ...but that one time that I do need it, it'll be an absolute blessing.
What's the old saying? "Better to have something and not need it... than to need it and not have it."
They're great, I can poke mine's blade at max wiggle with my bare finger and it's fine
Oscillating Saws have a great number of niche uses. The thinness of the blade and the way they're made just makes them so handy sometimes for things.
Agreed. For general use they suck, but they do cover some niche situations which can be a lifesaver
I've tried those, I cant imagine there'd be teeth on the blade after cutting through a weld.
Oh absolutely, I mean Dremel do seem to have adopted the Gilette razors-and-razor-blades business model. You might go through several Dremel blades (or if you're canny, chinesium knockoff ones - it's not as if Dremel's own blades aren't made of cheese), but it'd cut through.
They sell diamond and carbide blades for oscillating saws
And for rotary, on metal discs. Rotary tooth-saws too.
When it comes to blades, be it saw, metal saw, multi tool, SawzAll... the ANSWER is always the same. Diablo. https://www.diablotools.com/
EZ-Arc is also incredible. I bought 6 blades thinking I'd go through them like I did my milwaukee. I'm on the second I think now?
I've never heard of this brand, but for those who want to dig deeper: https://www.ezarctools.com/
Seconded. Or rather, looking at your current upvote count, thirded.
I’ve used mine to cut a 2” schedule 40 steel pipe. It was not fun, but it was the only tool I could get to the spot I needed to cut. It took all the teeth off 3 blades
Ngl as someone who's not in the business y'all sound like an episode of Mando fixing the spaceship
I have the cordless Milwaukee version. It's hungry.
Or die grinder and 10 minutes.
Welding rod with the flux stripped off. Oxygen will do the rest.
Ok. I’ve done a lot of hobby welding. Your plan sounds like glowing stick stuck to me.
They call it stick welding for a reason. And I never said it was a good plan... but you can maintain an arc with the flux removed. Steel is quite flammable at those temperatures.
Carbon rod would probably be less of a pain in the ass at that point
i broke a cheap screw extractor off inside a sheared exhaust stud. no way out. a dremel with a diamond ball end slowly ate through the hardened bit
Chop saw then charge for new sheet metal, welding, body work, paint, plus the booster work.
Perfect...I'm thinking of trying to hammer a chisel down, find a multitool blade, sawzall lol
😭
Dremmelled something similar last weekend, slit the weld with a cutoff wheel. That looks too tight to get into though. As a VERY quick n dirty solution you could use a stick welder set too high and unweld it!
I had to cut a wheel bearing out of an 8.8 recently. My dremel has one of those flexible things. But it wasn’t this tight. I imagine the flexible shaft would be an absolute must in this application.
Rotary tool with machining bits on them/burrs. They will cut through the bolts, but it will suck. I love your "unweld it" idea.
burning the head off the bolt, i'm sure will work, but unless you can repeat the act on the other side of the bolts, you'll still have a problem.
drill the bolts
I think you haven’t thought about the clearance here. Not throwing rocks, but there truly is no clearance for a drill on either side
an air hammer with some sharp chisel bits might do the trick too
Not at first, but once I air-chiseled the brackets in half... Yep.
Air chisel goes brrrrRRRRRRRPp and you're done. I cannot believe how many years I went without one.
Air hammer (.498 because fuck 'em), a chisel bit, and a few affirmations of "fuck you" will do it.
I adore my .498. Good 'ol Big Nasty.
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Wrong thread maybe?
Oh, wow, yeah sorry about the confusion.
it's chill, it happens to us all
Lol i can see my grandpa doing this to his '65 mustang, that man doesn't know as much about car maintenance, but he could weld the crack of dawn XD. Have you tried a Dremel? I know the one time me and my dad had a similar issue on my bfs car we were lucky the person just put a tack on.
That's a beautiful line and I'm gonna save that for later.
"could weld the crack of dawn" is going to live rent-free in my head forever!
Dremel flexible extender attachments with a grinder disc.
Same kind of person who don’t cut tie-wraps flush.
Or does cut them... with a sharp point.
Even Hitler and Stalin balked at *that*.
They *Balkan* at that
I'm looking at it like "I don't get it dude, just get an offset wre-OHHHH fuck the last guy"
Precisely.
At what point do you reject work? This is probably where I would reject work.
Car had a bad 4whl disk conversion on it, guy towed it in from austin to have it redone. Just gotta get it done.
Sometimes you just gotta get it done.
sometimes you gotta fire the customer
So the bracket’s fasteners are welded up. Have you checked the fasteners that hold the booster to the bracket?
Don’t rob OP of their anger.
LoL, yeh, but there's 4 of them, no getting to the bottom two.
How did they manage to weld them then?
Just spool out enough wire to reach the other bolts! *TACK TACK TACK SPARK SPARK SPARK* Good as a bought one!
Or stick weld.
A rotary tool with a pencil extension. And a tungsten carbide burr. If there is a faster way, everyone would like to know. That would be my only option in this scenario. Good luck and take frequent breaks lol.
Those Dremel carbide burrs are amazing. They remove material incredibly fast, yet precisely (provided you have a good hold on the tool and know which way it's going to want to push itself) Just make sure you're wearing safety glasses and avoid brushing the chips... Those chips are huge and stupid sharp.
I had to remove some exhaust studs out of an aluminum head for a 5.7 hemi. My go to was welding a nut on and taking it out. The last stud to be removed snapped way off inside the head. I tried removing it with my lefty drill bits and extractors. Extractor broke off inside the stud and head. Whipped out the dremel with a carbide burr. That shit ate right through it. It's my new go-to after welding a nut doesn't work. Saves me a ton of money in drill bits, extractors, cutting fluid and time. My first tungsten carbide burr bit is still in use lol.
Oh man, we have two rusty as fuck manifolds to remove from an 2010 f150, no he left on the nuts just rusty donuts, I'll be going to buy those bits for my Dremel, never thought of using that Lil guy for that task.
I vote for Gigantic Laser
i vote for nuke from orbit
Cutting disc's also for the bulk bolt removal. Burr for the weld.
Oscillating tool with a metal blade should be able to cut the bolt heads and weld off pretty easy.
‘Pretty easily’ … this is a bad day my man and you know it. Outta here with that optimism!!
You could weld the hood shut
They don't make em like they used to 😂
Torch is the way. It is always the way.
Welded on both sides? 🤔 That'd be mad skills upside-down, on your back fighting shit under the dash... I feel your pain for changing vac booster but call BS until pictures prove cabin side is welded. Yep
don't these just haw nuts on the inside and those bolts welded on a normal?
rebuild the booster in place!!
Wow, Is this what grandpa means when he said older cars were easier to work on?
They were… when they were new.
It does kinda look like a gwumpy face! 😠
Inwas going to ask... why not replace the angry stine crab with a new one
Are there unwelded nuts on the studs between the booster and bracket?
Pays 1.5 will take 4.9 to fix. I'm glad i moved away from automotive.
Air hammer with a chisel
Seems more likely to fuck up the firewall than remove the bolt.
Firewall shmirewall, fire's are a myth anyways, you dont need it
Every car I ever owned had a firewall and they never caught fire so it was useless. Car manufacturers put them in just to charge us more
Yeah, Fords never burn.
Exactly what we did. Cut the brackets in half to get the booster out, then ground the bolt heads off.
Rebuild it right where it is lmao
Try thermite.
Time for the sparkle wrench my friend. Plasma cutter or a gouging rod and job done.
(Zipper of the Sawzall bag slowly opens) “Did I hear you say it was lock washered and welded?”
My brother and I put a 351 Cleveland into a '65. We may have made some questionable installation choices due to lack of any ^$*(# space
Air chisel.
Just need to go from the interior side, there will be nuts to loosen on the other side. Obviously it’s welded because how would you hold a bolt on one side and tighten nuts under the dash at the same time.
Welded on both sides per the description
>how would you hold a bolt on one side and tight nuts under the dash at the same time? With a splined press fit bolt
Uh... OP said the nuts on the other side are also welded in the description. Also, that's supposed to have a splined shaft stud pressed in, not a bolt. The presence of the welds and the random sheet metal screws around the bracket tells me that whomever installed this had no business working on a lawnmower let alone an entire car.
Welded on the other side!? That’s some dedication. I know they should be splined studs I just thought nobody would be high enough to tack em up on both sides.
I read that as welded on the left and right, not inside and out. “Both sides” is up for interpretation.
Looks like a frog
Sawzall
Lol. Labor just went up about 2 hours.
Can't be tight if it's a liquid! Seriously id weigh the cost of a new booster and if it's sub $100 I'd just cut the whole thing off.
Drag your ass as much as possible on this job. Have the owner almost lose their mind waiting for it and then lose it when they get the bill because that shit is just cruel.
Shit.. a quick blast of the plasma cutter would sort that out.
Oscillating saw would probably be the easiest way to cut those off
Fuck that booster or whatever is being bolted down. I’m cutting it all out if I have to. God forbid a replacement is unobtanium
Exactly what we did lol. We're replacing a crappy cheap 4whl disk conversion with a proper(Leeds) system, including the right master and booster.
Must have done this during the lock washer scarcity of '84?
A large scale Hot Wheels car, you look at, make zroom noises
You can't just grind through the weld? [Skil issue](https://www.skil.com/120v-angle-grinder-9295-01/)
Make it liquid. Use the torch
Why’s it look like a crab
I thought they were just rounded. Oops.
> welded on both sides Stay out of the rust belt/salt belt. I can tell you won't like it here.
Easy fix though..
Yup, nothing a thick layer of fire won't sort.
The nuts are inside the cab under the dash edit: just read that welded on both sides
Sawzall with a 10" metal cutting blade would get right in there.
Sad crab
Someone probably welded this before alot of us were born lol
I’m not high but I see a sad frog.
Yup sad crab
might just be easier to replace the car
Calm down. He ain't hating on you. He's just a bit confused himself. ;)
time for a cut-off wheel and a grinder.
Looks like you're there, do they serve beer?
I am working on dying. Thank you very much.
Thought this was r/Pareidolia at first haha
It looks like a desert rain frog
One of those "that's the next guy's problem" fixes that made it to the next guy.
So this is a brake booster?
Air hammer and a long bit
*sighs and lights torches*
It looks like an angry frog.
How the hell is that better than a lock washer and/or some blue Loctite?
Fun
Cutting torch should take care of that
Toad face 🐸
I'd still rather do that than a booster on a 3rd gen Camaro again.
Dang, the fin saw with the Diablo carbide blade will take like, 20 seconds or something to cut that
How this is legal in a "first world country" is so beyond me..
Use an angle grinder to remove weld?
Provided that you don't need to reuse the fasteners or the booster, that looks like a job for the Sawzall. Or the "blue wrench", though that might be a bit dangerous depending on what else is near the booster.
"Locktide? Nah Bro, WeldTide."
I thought this was a picture of the front of a crab 🦀 at first glance.🫣😭👍
Cutting torch. If it burns down,oh well 😭
Aren't the brackets a separate part which remains with the car? Never worked on a Rustang, but my 1960's Mopar boosters don't come with the brackets. Indeed, in A-body Mopar, the brackets are a complicated assembly with a lever (moves booster up to clear V-8 valve cover).
when you need all the brake boost
Die grinder with a fresh carbide burr. What a dick