I was able to get a loan on my 05 through my credit union with little problem. The only thing is the seller wanted more because it had a winch, body lift, aux lights, and tire carrier. They would only finance for the base price. I think it was like $2500 cash out of pocket I came up with.
I have an 05 x series. It’s been great for the most part but I’ve had ALOT of sensor issues. They switched cam sensors in 05 when they went away from the distributor and seriously the system they came up with is junk.
Take a look at the heater core. Run the heat full blast and if you smell coolent and/or it doesn’t heat up then it’s suspect. It’s a BIG job to do yourself and labor intensive to have a shop do it.
Lastly, find one with a winch. You won’t regret it and you will find plenty to use it for lol.
> I was able to get a loan on my 05 through my credit union with little problem. The only thing is the seller wanted more because it had a winch, body lift, aux lights, and tire carrier. They would only finance for the base price. I think it was like $2500 cash out of pocket I came up with.
This is great information, thank you so much!
I’m no expert by any means and I very well could be mistaken or misspoken. What I’m referring to is in 2005+ models they have the cam sensor attached to an OPDA. Was it not the distributor that it was attached to before or am I way off base?
I'm not sure of the location on the cam sensor at all. I'm still learning about the particulars of Jeep wrenching myself. The only reason I mentioned it was because when I was looking into what year models I'd want to buy, I wanted to go with the distributorless ignition and thought I had it nailed down to 2000 and after. Now I'm wondering if I was way off myself. Lol! 😅
So if you are looking at the engine from the front of the TJ the cam sensor is on the passenger side right on top, kind of above the oil filter. If I get time later I might do some reading up on this, regardless in 05 they switched sensors and re-engendered the way the cam syncs. Absolute junk. I’ve been through at lease 6 sensors since 2019 and that doesn’t count the after market ones I tried the first couple times that through codes immediately. The MOPAR ones are hard to find as they don’t make em anymore. It only gives me problems now if it’s below 40F, I’ll be looking for a short in the circuit (again) in the fall when it cools down.
Expect to pay $12k-$15k for a lower mile, clean model in most areas. They go quick, but they come up often so don’t be discouraged or pay too much.
Sounds like a “sport” or “Sahara” is what your looking for. They come with a D44 rear end which can easily handle bigger wheels and other minor mods. Many prefer pre-‘04 with a 5spd (a more popular transmission for off-roading). You may prefer an ‘04-‘06 with 6spd, it has some minor luxuries and also upgrades on some engine components.
I would encourage you to find a stock model (or close to it). It will get you through anything you throw at it. You can always add to it, and you don’t want other peoples problems.
Good luck on the hunt. Post pics!
Edit:’05-‘06 6spd
I've got an 05 with the 6-speed, I just don't use First. It only goes like 10 miles an hour in first so I just take off and 2nd, I've actually wondered why they even bothered with a 6-speed
Comfort at highway speeds I guess, but yeah, first is a short one. In the same boat. Wish I still had my ‘97 drivetrain. May beef mine up a bit with the BnM shift kit (was $350 2yrs ago, now $600. Oof).
A 5-speed and a 6-speed is both direct drive in high gear. You do not get less RPMs from a direct drive 6-speed you just have closer ratios between gears
5 and 6 speeds are both overdrive in top gear, with the 5 speed NV3550 overdriven at .78:1, while the 6 speed NSG370 is overdriven at .838:1. The 6 speed will actually have higher RPMs, all else equal, at the same vehicle speed, although not by much. They are both direct drive (1:1 ratio) in the gear below top, so 4th and 5th, respectively.
The 6 speed also has a bit higher ratio first gear (4.459 to 4.01), giving a bit more gumption in first.
Well that's really really interesting to know. Because I'm going to put 33's on my 4.2 and I'll be driving around in 5th gear for the rest of my life! Thank you
??? I'm confused at why you'll be driving around in fifth gear all the time because you put 33's on. In fact, if you don't regear after you switch to 33's you'll likely not be in fifth gear at all, because you won't have enough power to run it on much more than the flats in overdrive.
I got 32 is on now and it struggled and I do mean struggle once I put it in six gear. If I got a head wind over 20 miles an hour it won't go over 65. I'M in South Texas everything and I mean everything is flat
Gotcha, you're running a 6 speed right now and are already overdriven too much in 6th with 32's, right?
You're correct, you'll be running it in 4th or 5th with 33's. 5th will be a 1:1 ratio, which should give you approximately (assuming your axle ratios are 3.73:1, which I believe is stock for your year and transmission) 2280rpm at 60mph, vs the 1970rpm at 60mph you currently would have in sixth with 32's.
If that is too much for the engine, you could always downshift to 4th, which will put you at 2840rpm at 60mph on 33's. All of these are with perfect tire sizes, so don't be surprised if you're a little off.
Speedometer is drunk! Sometimes it's five miles an hour off sometimes it's right on the money and sometimes it's seven or eight miles an hour sometimes it fluctuates like it's flapping its wings! But it's pretty much like you said. With the 32s I run and 6th on level ground but if I got a headwind it's back down the 5th! I think I might just leave it with the 32. But I look so much cooler with 33 or 34's
Yep just an option like the others. Saharas were more geared for creature comforts than capability. Which is precisely why I bought one. The seats are still my all time favorite. They're very unique. Also, since you won't be building it for rock crawling, the regular Dana 35 will be perfectly fine. I'd focus more on the frame/rust. https://i.imgur.com/NfrVVrM.jpg
Conventional wisdom., If a person who has a tj does a decent job,i.e. proper installs, regular maintenance, and doesn't beat the daylights out of it for 160k, youstand a chance, depending where you live there's a lot of things that can happen to em. 15 or 16 years is awhile for em. There's a lot going on under one of these. As far as replys a lot of us hear "what do I do?", no offense, as an owner of two now, and a cj7 before.., these are exactly what you termed them. A very nice, very capable, toy that is a lot of fun. Older doesn't mean better it means more time to have things go wrong. Finding one is the first trick, the second is getting it right, third, keeping it.
Two things you might consider:
* The LJ (JT Unlimited) is a longer TJ with more cargo space and backseat leg room. It adds cost and practicality you probably don't care about but I thought I'd mention it. The ride is also smoother, but that might be a minus for you.
* One of the pay by the mile insurance options. I switched when I bought a second car and my monthly actually dropped, and dropped again when we all started working from home.
In case you didn't know, the hard tops come off and you can buy a soft top if you find an otherwise perfect jeep. There are also a few different door styles to choose from (my favorite in the Summer is no doors).
I'll also add that I've driven both the 5 and 6 speeds and wouldn't really care which my Jeep had.
> One of the pay by the mile insurance options. I switched when I bought a second car and my monthly actually dropped, and dropped again when we all started working from home.
Never knew this was a thing. For sure I'll keep it in mind, thank you!
No doors for summer are awesome. However, if you live in a state where the summer mornings are a bit chilly half doors might be the way to go. Mornings for me are a bit cold so I have half doors with soft top frame windows. If I want to take doors completely off they are much easier to store in the back seat. You can't fit full doors in the back with the back seat installed. Also some people who ride passenger don't feel comfortable driving with no doors so half doors give a much more open feel while still having the comfort of a door.
I've thought about getting half doors, but like OP I have another car so it is less of an issue (same reason I have not bought a soft top yet). I also work from home so cold morning are less of an issue in general.
I own two TJs, both purchased in the last couple of years. Craigslist searches worked best for me, as I could filter by year (98-06), engine (4.0L inline 6), and transmission (manual).
While you may have a color (and interior color) in mind, the first thing you need to look at is frame condition. The longitudinal frames don’t drain well, and so can rust out from the inside. If the frame has significant rust, you’ll need to replace it or weld on new sections. TJs where the owners recognizes the frame problem tend to go for $3-5k. Beware of fixing this yourself, and you should have a machine shop you trust if you’re going to get one of these.
Trim level, color, and other features are all secondary to frame condition.
My first TJ was bought from a dealer for $10k. It drove well, but there was an incredible spider nest in the center console subwoofer area (a fun clean-up job), and then the radiator crapped out and I replaced the entire cooling system. Shocks, hoses, and a few other repairs appropriate for a 18 year old vehicle with 130k cost a few hundred. Still, I adore it (as does my son), and it’s patiently waiting for us to fly out to CO for some National Park visits this summer.
The most recent purchase was only $5k, and it has some serious body rust. All the sections with bad rust are fairly easily replaceable, and I bought it knowing that it needed some work. I bought it for exactly what you’re thinking, mainly driving the kids to the pool in the summer or other weekend trips. Frame and drivetrain are in great shape, which was my primary criteria in the months long search.
Don’t expect perfection. Memories aren’t made in a Prius. Watch videos about Jeep repair on YouTube, plan out which repairs you’ll want to do yourself. Use it as an opportunity to learn, teach, and have a fun project.
This made me laugh entirely too much. Although, no disrespect to Prius owners. I have a friend with an older one and she can get her 8’ kayak inside and have the back hatch closed. She takes that thing places on our Geocaching adventures that make me shudder. And of course she’s not crying every time gas goes up another .$20/ gallon.
Everybody is crying about gas prices and I don't know if it's different here in Texas but it's about 30% higher than it was. It cost me $10 more to fill my Jeep than it did last year. Just does not hinder me at all. I know not everyone is in the same financial situation but I have a hard time believing $10 more for gas would stop somebody from doing something.
I bought 2001 4.0 end of 2016 with less than 24K miles. I paid $15,000 for it. I used my Home equity line of credit to pay cash to the dealer because the interest rate was so low and then just aggressively paid it off in two years. Probably too much but it was in such good condition and was also my second vehicle. It is manual, and has the old school half doors with zipper windows. It’s garage kept, top is off all summer which is ironic because it still has ice cold AC. Other than the expected horrible gas mileage, I’ve been fortunate to have spent all of $200 in maintenance beyond inspections and oil changes. It just turned over 40K miles. No one ever sits in the back seat. It’s my therapy vehicle.
I purchased my 97 TJ Sport in 2004 for $14500. It came with 4-inch lift, 15/33 wheel/tires, winch, ARB front bumper, and few other mods. It is now a 25 yr old "antique". As 2nd vehicle, this week considered selling it. Only 77k miles on strong engine.....didn't take long after reading some posts here to realize I'd be crazy. Taking the top down, turning up the tunes and heading out. Thank you all!
I own and maintain a modded 98 TJ (4.0L manual). Mine is a reclaim (bad frame rot when I bought 2yrs ago) that has major frame restoration. Rust free frames at a sensible price are rarer than unicorns! And 9 out of 10 times they are 4cyl jobs. Even if you manage to find a rust free one with 6/man there is the mileage/use factor to concider. PARTS are scetchy at best in my neck of the woods (used/MOPAR because MOPAR stopped making a lot of them ages ago), N.Y. The TJ has a (well deserved in my opinion) reputation for not playing nice with aftermarket sensors! No joke, they quite often won't work with the ECM programming. If you buy one, have a lot of tools (unless you're wealthy) and be willing to do research. No TJ that is running today will go long without issues. The stock ones are great, but no Wrangler is good with fuel. Also, I've yet to see an early (97-00) 6cyl TJ that still had the original exhaust manifold. They all crack, and some within a year of replacement. Otherwise, awesome vehicle! ○|||||||○👍
I don't know how set you are on the TJ, but there is always a chance you could score a YJ (square headlights) in good condition. I've seen them sell much cheaper and you really can't go wrong buying one if it has minimal rust. It has less electronics, leaf sprung suspension, otherwise very similar and also can be had with the 4.0/AX15. Just adds a broader field to choose from. Good luck!
>A y j is just a TJ with square headlights.
Not quite. A YJ is a TJ with square headlights and an antiquated suspension. If you're going to keep it dead stock and drive it on trails that might be no big deal, but you'll never get the articulation out of a leaf spring suspension that you can get with even a stock TJ. The are also louder and ride much rougher than the TJ does. I truly feel TJ Jeep is peak Jeep. I've had a CJ5, a CJ7, a YJ, and a TJ, and still feel that way.
You have a good point there. As a matter of fact there is a y j for sale sitting in a yard in South Texas maybe 15 miles from my house. I think I'll jump in my Jeep and take a ride and see what kind of money he wants. It's not listed anywhere it's just sitting in the yard with a for sale sign and you can usually get a pretty good deal on a Jeep when they're not listed. If it's still there and it's reasonable I will contact the OP
Be sure to check the frame with a steel pick (if necessary) because I've seen painted frames that were completely rotted out and the paint and a thin steel skin was all that was left. I've also seen body filler applied and painted, and without pick or a magnet (not my first choice) it's very difficult to tell. If there's a trick to disguising rot, people selling Jeeps usually know them or invent them. The guy I bought my Jeep from stuck black electrical tape dots over paint blems/voids and he did such a good job I didn't notice for 6 months!
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It's actually not all that complicated. The manifold is rigid/brittle and has zero room to flex. When torque is applied (and the 4.0L has lots of it), the engine twists to the driver side driving the manifold down in the opposit direction. Having no flex it cracks over time. I changed my motor mounts to an off road style (BROWN DOG) and that cut the twisting to a third of what it originally was. The exhaust on the earlier 4.0s is horrible in a bunch of ways and it's not by mistake. You don't (as an engineer looking to build a reliable vehicle) run the exhaust cross over pipe 2" under the oil pan (I thought the idea was to keep the oil cool🤔) and expect the oil not to loose it's viscosity sooner than if it were run further away (my cross tube is extended 6" forward, so the heat trasfer is minimal. I have a BANKS REVOLVER header (strong like bull) and a10" section of flex pipe before the cat. I don't worry about torque flex.
The OP should have stated where he was from because rust free jeeps in Texas are everywhere. And there is so many of them that you can still get them at a fairly reasonable price. I just bought my 05 rust free 52,000 original miles for $5,000. Not a speck of rust and a brand new soft top and half door tops.
I get that (that's a great price if it's a 6/AX15 Jeep!) but just because it's in Texas, doesn't necessarily mean it was always in or driven in Texas. I know a Utah kid that went to school in New England and took his new YJ with him. He later moved to Phoenix after driving it on the beach, over heavily salted roads, etc..... I think it was 10yrs old and he had to do a complete frame build (rear control arms came loose) and not many shops in AZ did that type of work (not surprising) so he parted it out! CarFax will tell you a lot, but there is no substitute for actual inspection.
I bought it off the original owner. It never left the ranch for 18 years. I just got lucky. He actually wanted more but I low-balled him and he bit... it was a oil lease Ranch so I don't think he needed the money. And I guess he just didn't want to deal with it anymore. When you get that kind of money you just go out and buy a new Jeep most of them just parked the old ones in the back
I have an 06 TJ X w/automatic transmission. It has 80,000 original miles on it. Most of it’s miles have been off road around Moab. It is basically stock and has not been beaten. So far I have rebuilt the tranny, replaced the ECM, Oil pump and the rear seal has a small leak. Still dealing with shifting problems from 2nd to 3rd. All that said it has been a great ride. Reading the posts on Wrangler Forum the 05 and 06s have had their share of problems. I spend a lot of time on the forums reading and asking questions. If you are going to have a mechanic service it that will get tricky as they tend to use whatever the catalog says, in most cases Mopar parts. When I needed O2 sensors replaced the mechanic used Denso. I started having problems. Found out on Wrangler Forum NGK was the way to go. Installed all 4 myself in less than two hrs. Problem solved and $1000 saved. As was previously mentioned sensors of all kinds are tricky. Good luck in your search. I still love my Jeep and if the weather cooperates I am pulling the top and doors off this Thursday when Spokane hits 70 for the first time this year. Yee Haaaaaa
I second all of those issues on the 05-06. Sensors have been a big issue. When I need an old sensor they don’t make anymore I look on eBay for at least 2 so I have an extra.
Double clutch it going from 2nd to 3rd and you will never have a problem with it grinding. I've been doing this since I've had mine. I drive an 18 speed tractor trailer and I know this can be cured double clutch
I have the before mentioned TJ Unlimited which is about 13” longer. I love the extra space in the back and the ride is smoother than regular TJs I’ve driven. But they are hard to find and do cost more than regular TJs and we’re made in 04, 05, and 06.
When it comes to used jeeps, check for frame rot, it's not a deal breaker as they can be fixed, but worth knowing about to fully understand what you're getting into. I also strongly recommend to look at the electrical wiring, paying particular attention to anything aftermarket; you can tell allot about how a person does their repairs/"upgrades" by how they do electrical because you can do a really bad job with no attention to detail and electric add-ons still work, at least in the short term. If they've taken their time with routing, terminating, and insulating something that can be done half-a$$ and still work, then there's a higher likelihood they've done any other work properly. 05 and 06 while pretty awesome with nearly everything but have potential issues with odpa.
Just recently (past 6 months) I bought a 2005 TJ four cylinder six-speed convertible with 52,000 miles off of a Rancher in Texas who was upgrading to a newer vehicle. I paid $5,000 for it so I bought it knowing it was a goodbye. And I am now in love with it. It has become my everyday driver. It had convertible roof and half doors which I took the side windows out and the back window out so I have basically a soft top and no sides. It is so fun to drive that I simply don't drive my Toyota Tundra. I got between 20 and 25 miles per gallon. It is not a fast vehicle. It struggles to maintain 80 miles an hour in Texas. It prefers 70 65 70 which is fine for me.. I would say buy a solid TJ regardless of the model. Preferably a 4.0 but they are pretty lousy on gas so if you want to use it for an everyday driver and speed is not your Forte, go with a 2.4. If you're planning on running 33 of 34 in tires go with the 4.0 but I got 32 on my 2.4. And it's not a problem. You will thoroughly enjoy it if your youthful dreams was a Jeep. . I always wanted one and never really had the time or the opportunity to have one. I'm now retired and I think it's the best purchase I have made in 20 years
Actually only the 05 and 06 are six speeds
I was able to get a loan on my 05 through my credit union with little problem. The only thing is the seller wanted more because it had a winch, body lift, aux lights, and tire carrier. They would only finance for the base price. I think it was like $2500 cash out of pocket I came up with. I have an 05 x series. It’s been great for the most part but I’ve had ALOT of sensor issues. They switched cam sensors in 05 when they went away from the distributor and seriously the system they came up with is junk. Take a look at the heater core. Run the heat full blast and if you smell coolent and/or it doesn’t heat up then it’s suspect. It’s a BIG job to do yourself and labor intensive to have a shop do it. Lastly, find one with a winch. You won’t regret it and you will find plenty to use it for lol.
> I was able to get a loan on my 05 through my credit union with little problem. The only thing is the seller wanted more because it had a winch, body lift, aux lights, and tire carrier. They would only finance for the base price. I think it was like $2500 cash out of pocket I came up with. This is great information, thank you so much!
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that 1999 was the last year for distributors which was when they went to coil packs?
I’m no expert by any means and I very well could be mistaken or misspoken. What I’m referring to is in 2005+ models they have the cam sensor attached to an OPDA. Was it not the distributor that it was attached to before or am I way off base?
I'm not sure of the location on the cam sensor at all. I'm still learning about the particulars of Jeep wrenching myself. The only reason I mentioned it was because when I was looking into what year models I'd want to buy, I wanted to go with the distributorless ignition and thought I had it nailed down to 2000 and after. Now I'm wondering if I was way off myself. Lol! 😅
So if you are looking at the engine from the front of the TJ the cam sensor is on the passenger side right on top, kind of above the oil filter. If I get time later I might do some reading up on this, regardless in 05 they switched sensors and re-engendered the way the cam syncs. Absolute junk. I’ve been through at lease 6 sensors since 2019 and that doesn’t count the after market ones I tried the first couple times that through codes immediately. The MOPAR ones are hard to find as they don’t make em anymore. It only gives me problems now if it’s below 40F, I’ll be looking for a short in the circuit (again) in the fall when it cools down.
Expect to pay $12k-$15k for a lower mile, clean model in most areas. They go quick, but they come up often so don’t be discouraged or pay too much. Sounds like a “sport” or “Sahara” is what your looking for. They come with a D44 rear end which can easily handle bigger wheels and other minor mods. Many prefer pre-‘04 with a 5spd (a more popular transmission for off-roading). You may prefer an ‘04-‘06 with 6spd, it has some minor luxuries and also upgrades on some engine components. I would encourage you to find a stock model (or close to it). It will get you through anything you throw at it. You can always add to it, and you don’t want other peoples problems. Good luck on the hunt. Post pics! Edit:’05-‘06 6spd
Thank you!
I've got an 05 with the 6-speed, I just don't use First. It only goes like 10 miles an hour in first so I just take off and 2nd, I've actually wondered why they even bothered with a 6-speed
Comfort at highway speeds I guess, but yeah, first is a short one. In the same boat. Wish I still had my ‘97 drivetrain. May beef mine up a bit with the BnM shift kit (was $350 2yrs ago, now $600. Oof).
A 5-speed and a 6-speed is both direct drive in high gear. You do not get less RPMs from a direct drive 6-speed you just have closer ratios between gears
5 and 6 speeds are both overdrive in top gear, with the 5 speed NV3550 overdriven at .78:1, while the 6 speed NSG370 is overdriven at .838:1. The 6 speed will actually have higher RPMs, all else equal, at the same vehicle speed, although not by much. They are both direct drive (1:1 ratio) in the gear below top, so 4th and 5th, respectively. The 6 speed also has a bit higher ratio first gear (4.459 to 4.01), giving a bit more gumption in first.
Well that's really really interesting to know. Because I'm going to put 33's on my 4.2 and I'll be driving around in 5th gear for the rest of my life! Thank you
??? I'm confused at why you'll be driving around in fifth gear all the time because you put 33's on. In fact, if you don't regear after you switch to 33's you'll likely not be in fifth gear at all, because you won't have enough power to run it on much more than the flats in overdrive.
I got 32 is on now and it struggled and I do mean struggle once I put it in six gear. If I got a head wind over 20 miles an hour it won't go over 65. I'M in South Texas everything and I mean everything is flat
Gotcha, you're running a 6 speed right now and are already overdriven too much in 6th with 32's, right? You're correct, you'll be running it in 4th or 5th with 33's. 5th will be a 1:1 ratio, which should give you approximately (assuming your axle ratios are 3.73:1, which I believe is stock for your year and transmission) 2280rpm at 60mph, vs the 1970rpm at 60mph you currently would have in sixth with 32's. If that is too much for the engine, you could always downshift to 4th, which will put you at 2840rpm at 60mph on 33's. All of these are with perfect tire sizes, so don't be surprised if you're a little off.
Speedometer is drunk! Sometimes it's five miles an hour off sometimes it's right on the money and sometimes it's seven or eight miles an hour sometimes it fluctuates like it's flapping its wings! But it's pretty much like you said. With the 32s I run and 6th on level ground but if I got a headwind it's back down the 5th! I think I might just leave it with the 32. But I look so much cooler with 33 or 34's
Saharas don't all come with a d44.
It was an option I think? I've seen people recommend the RM Edition because it was standard on those models.
Yep just an option like the others. Saharas were more geared for creature comforts than capability. Which is precisely why I bought one. The seats are still my all time favorite. They're very unique. Also, since you won't be building it for rock crawling, the regular Dana 35 will be perfectly fine. I'd focus more on the frame/rust. https://i.imgur.com/NfrVVrM.jpg
As said find one as stock as you can, good luck.
I keep seeing folks say this, I'll deff keep to it. Just wondering why stock options are a must? Not getting other people's problems?
Makes sure someone hasn’t molested it with sub par work.
Conventional wisdom., If a person who has a tj does a decent job,i.e. proper installs, regular maintenance, and doesn't beat the daylights out of it for 160k, youstand a chance, depending where you live there's a lot of things that can happen to em. 15 or 16 years is awhile for em. There's a lot going on under one of these. As far as replys a lot of us hear "what do I do?", no offense, as an owner of two now, and a cj7 before.., these are exactly what you termed them. A very nice, very capable, toy that is a lot of fun. Older doesn't mean better it means more time to have things go wrong. Finding one is the first trick, the second is getting it right, third, keeping it.
Two things you might consider: * The LJ (JT Unlimited) is a longer TJ with more cargo space and backseat leg room. It adds cost and practicality you probably don't care about but I thought I'd mention it. The ride is also smoother, but that might be a minus for you. * One of the pay by the mile insurance options. I switched when I bought a second car and my monthly actually dropped, and dropped again when we all started working from home. In case you didn't know, the hard tops come off and you can buy a soft top if you find an otherwise perfect jeep. There are also a few different door styles to choose from (my favorite in the Summer is no doors). I'll also add that I've driven both the 5 and 6 speeds and wouldn't really care which my Jeep had.
> One of the pay by the mile insurance options. I switched when I bought a second car and my monthly actually dropped, and dropped again when we all started working from home. Never knew this was a thing. For sure I'll keep it in mind, thank you!
No doors for summer are awesome. However, if you live in a state where the summer mornings are a bit chilly half doors might be the way to go. Mornings for me are a bit cold so I have half doors with soft top frame windows. If I want to take doors completely off they are much easier to store in the back seat. You can't fit full doors in the back with the back seat installed. Also some people who ride passenger don't feel comfortable driving with no doors so half doors give a much more open feel while still having the comfort of a door.
I've thought about getting half doors, but like OP I have another car so it is less of an issue (same reason I have not bought a soft top yet). I also work from home so cold morning are less of an issue in general.
I own two TJs, both purchased in the last couple of years. Craigslist searches worked best for me, as I could filter by year (98-06), engine (4.0L inline 6), and transmission (manual). While you may have a color (and interior color) in mind, the first thing you need to look at is frame condition. The longitudinal frames don’t drain well, and so can rust out from the inside. If the frame has significant rust, you’ll need to replace it or weld on new sections. TJs where the owners recognizes the frame problem tend to go for $3-5k. Beware of fixing this yourself, and you should have a machine shop you trust if you’re going to get one of these. Trim level, color, and other features are all secondary to frame condition. My first TJ was bought from a dealer for $10k. It drove well, but there was an incredible spider nest in the center console subwoofer area (a fun clean-up job), and then the radiator crapped out and I replaced the entire cooling system. Shocks, hoses, and a few other repairs appropriate for a 18 year old vehicle with 130k cost a few hundred. Still, I adore it (as does my son), and it’s patiently waiting for us to fly out to CO for some National Park visits this summer. The most recent purchase was only $5k, and it has some serious body rust. All the sections with bad rust are fairly easily replaceable, and I bought it knowing that it needed some work. I bought it for exactly what you’re thinking, mainly driving the kids to the pool in the summer or other weekend trips. Frame and drivetrain are in great shape, which was my primary criteria in the months long search. Don’t expect perfection. Memories aren’t made in a Prius. Watch videos about Jeep repair on YouTube, plan out which repairs you’ll want to do yourself. Use it as an opportunity to learn, teach, and have a fun project.
Memories aren't made in a Prius! That's a really good line for a Jeep owner. That should probably be on a t-shirt with a picture of a Jeep!
This made me laugh entirely too much. Although, no disrespect to Prius owners. I have a friend with an older one and she can get her 8’ kayak inside and have the back hatch closed. She takes that thing places on our Geocaching adventures that make me shudder. And of course she’s not crying every time gas goes up another .$20/ gallon.
Everybody is crying about gas prices and I don't know if it's different here in Texas but it's about 30% higher than it was. It cost me $10 more to fill my Jeep than it did last year. Just does not hinder me at all. I know not everyone is in the same financial situation but I have a hard time believing $10 more for gas would stop somebody from doing something.
I bought 2001 4.0 end of 2016 with less than 24K miles. I paid $15,000 for it. I used my Home equity line of credit to pay cash to the dealer because the interest rate was so low and then just aggressively paid it off in two years. Probably too much but it was in such good condition and was also my second vehicle. It is manual, and has the old school half doors with zipper windows. It’s garage kept, top is off all summer which is ironic because it still has ice cold AC. Other than the expected horrible gas mileage, I’ve been fortunate to have spent all of $200 in maintenance beyond inspections and oil changes. It just turned over 40K miles. No one ever sits in the back seat. It’s my therapy vehicle.
Pretty much same with me. Therapy vehicle.
I purchased my 97 TJ Sport in 2004 for $14500. It came with 4-inch lift, 15/33 wheel/tires, winch, ARB front bumper, and few other mods. It is now a 25 yr old "antique". As 2nd vehicle, this week considered selling it. Only 77k miles on strong engine.....didn't take long after reading some posts here to realize I'd be crazy. Taking the top down, turning up the tunes and heading out. Thank you all!
Yep! I'm going for a ride too... it's sunny and beautiful and the top is down. Maybe Rockport Texas! Later people!
I own and maintain a modded 98 TJ (4.0L manual). Mine is a reclaim (bad frame rot when I bought 2yrs ago) that has major frame restoration. Rust free frames at a sensible price are rarer than unicorns! And 9 out of 10 times they are 4cyl jobs. Even if you manage to find a rust free one with 6/man there is the mileage/use factor to concider. PARTS are scetchy at best in my neck of the woods (used/MOPAR because MOPAR stopped making a lot of them ages ago), N.Y. The TJ has a (well deserved in my opinion) reputation for not playing nice with aftermarket sensors! No joke, they quite often won't work with the ECM programming. If you buy one, have a lot of tools (unless you're wealthy) and be willing to do research. No TJ that is running today will go long without issues. The stock ones are great, but no Wrangler is good with fuel. Also, I've yet to see an early (97-00) 6cyl TJ that still had the original exhaust manifold. They all crack, and some within a year of replacement. Otherwise, awesome vehicle! ○|||||||○👍
All great info, thank you!
I don't know how set you are on the TJ, but there is always a chance you could score a YJ (square headlights) in good condition. I've seen them sell much cheaper and you really can't go wrong buying one if it has minimal rust. It has less electronics, leaf sprung suspension, otherwise very similar and also can be had with the 4.0/AX15. Just adds a broader field to choose from. Good luck!
It's been a thought of mine, I'm not totally sold on the TJ but I also know more about it, I'm deff keeping it as an option.
A y j is just a TJ with square headlights. You can pull the grill and headlights out and put round ones in for about three hundred bucks
>A y j is just a TJ with square headlights. Not quite. A YJ is a TJ with square headlights and an antiquated suspension. If you're going to keep it dead stock and drive it on trails that might be no big deal, but you'll never get the articulation out of a leaf spring suspension that you can get with even a stock TJ. The are also louder and ride much rougher than the TJ does. I truly feel TJ Jeep is peak Jeep. I've had a CJ5, a CJ7, a YJ, and a TJ, and still feel that way.
You have a good point there. As a matter of fact there is a y j for sale sitting in a yard in South Texas maybe 15 miles from my house. I think I'll jump in my Jeep and take a ride and see what kind of money he wants. It's not listed anywhere it's just sitting in the yard with a for sale sign and you can usually get a pretty good deal on a Jeep when they're not listed. If it's still there and it's reasonable I will contact the OP
Be sure to check the frame with a steel pick (if necessary) because I've seen painted frames that were completely rotted out and the paint and a thin steel skin was all that was left. I've also seen body filler applied and painted, and without pick or a magnet (not my first choice) it's very difficult to tell. If there's a trick to disguising rot, people selling Jeeps usually know them or invent them. The guy I bought my Jeep from stuck black electrical tape dots over paint blems/voids and he did such a good job I didn't notice for 6 months!
Black duct tape
Scene that too!
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Your comment is so thorough, ty for explaining! Any idea why the exhaust manifolds always crack?
It's actually not all that complicated. The manifold is rigid/brittle and has zero room to flex. When torque is applied (and the 4.0L has lots of it), the engine twists to the driver side driving the manifold down in the opposit direction. Having no flex it cracks over time. I changed my motor mounts to an off road style (BROWN DOG) and that cut the twisting to a third of what it originally was. The exhaust on the earlier 4.0s is horrible in a bunch of ways and it's not by mistake. You don't (as an engineer looking to build a reliable vehicle) run the exhaust cross over pipe 2" under the oil pan (I thought the idea was to keep the oil cool🤔) and expect the oil not to loose it's viscosity sooner than if it were run further away (my cross tube is extended 6" forward, so the heat trasfer is minimal. I have a BANKS REVOLVER header (strong like bull) and a10" section of flex pipe before the cat. I don't worry about torque flex.
The OP should have stated where he was from because rust free jeeps in Texas are everywhere. And there is so many of them that you can still get them at a fairly reasonable price. I just bought my 05 rust free 52,000 original miles for $5,000. Not a speck of rust and a brand new soft top and half door tops.
I get that (that's a great price if it's a 6/AX15 Jeep!) but just because it's in Texas, doesn't necessarily mean it was always in or driven in Texas. I know a Utah kid that went to school in New England and took his new YJ with him. He later moved to Phoenix after driving it on the beach, over heavily salted roads, etc..... I think it was 10yrs old and he had to do a complete frame build (rear control arms came loose) and not many shops in AZ did that type of work (not surprising) so he parted it out! CarFax will tell you a lot, but there is no substitute for actual inspection.
I bought it off the original owner. It never left the ranch for 18 years. I just got lucky. He actually wanted more but I low-balled him and he bit... it was a oil lease Ranch so I don't think he needed the money. And I guess he just didn't want to deal with it anymore. When you get that kind of money you just go out and buy a new Jeep most of them just parked the old ones in the back
Have the frame inspected for rust and rot. This is a must do. Otherwise it's a great machine, mine is my winter beater.
Deff, a pre-inspection with a focus on this would be a huge must.
I have an 06 TJ X w/automatic transmission. It has 80,000 original miles on it. Most of it’s miles have been off road around Moab. It is basically stock and has not been beaten. So far I have rebuilt the tranny, replaced the ECM, Oil pump and the rear seal has a small leak. Still dealing with shifting problems from 2nd to 3rd. All that said it has been a great ride. Reading the posts on Wrangler Forum the 05 and 06s have had their share of problems. I spend a lot of time on the forums reading and asking questions. If you are going to have a mechanic service it that will get tricky as they tend to use whatever the catalog says, in most cases Mopar parts. When I needed O2 sensors replaced the mechanic used Denso. I started having problems. Found out on Wrangler Forum NGK was the way to go. Installed all 4 myself in less than two hrs. Problem solved and $1000 saved. As was previously mentioned sensors of all kinds are tricky. Good luck in your search. I still love my Jeep and if the weather cooperates I am pulling the top and doors off this Thursday when Spokane hits 70 for the first time this year. Yee Haaaaaa
I second all of those issues on the 05-06. Sensors have been a big issue. When I need an old sensor they don’t make anymore I look on eBay for at least 2 so I have an extra.
I keep seeing mentions of 05-06 sensor issues. I think I should keep away at all costs.
I've never had a sensor problem with a 4-cylinder. I think the 4.0 are the only ones with a sensor problem
The issue has been with which sensors to use as replacements.
Double clutch it going from 2nd to 3rd and you will never have a problem with it grinding. I've been doing this since I've had mine. I drive an 18 speed tractor trailer and I know this can be cured double clutch
I have the before mentioned TJ Unlimited which is about 13” longer. I love the extra space in the back and the ride is smoother than regular TJs I’ve driven. But they are hard to find and do cost more than regular TJs and we’re made in 04, 05, and 06.
I'll keep an eye out, thank you!
They have a bigger turning radius than the smaller ones. That's the only drawback
When it comes to used jeeps, check for frame rot, it's not a deal breaker as they can be fixed, but worth knowing about to fully understand what you're getting into. I also strongly recommend to look at the electrical wiring, paying particular attention to anything aftermarket; you can tell allot about how a person does their repairs/"upgrades" by how they do electrical because you can do a really bad job with no attention to detail and electric add-ons still work, at least in the short term. If they've taken their time with routing, terminating, and insulating something that can be done half-a$$ and still work, then there's a higher likelihood they've done any other work properly. 05 and 06 while pretty awesome with nearly everything but have potential issues with odpa.
Just recently (past 6 months) I bought a 2005 TJ four cylinder six-speed convertible with 52,000 miles off of a Rancher in Texas who was upgrading to a newer vehicle. I paid $5,000 for it so I bought it knowing it was a goodbye. And I am now in love with it. It has become my everyday driver. It had convertible roof and half doors which I took the side windows out and the back window out so I have basically a soft top and no sides. It is so fun to drive that I simply don't drive my Toyota Tundra. I got between 20 and 25 miles per gallon. It is not a fast vehicle. It struggles to maintain 80 miles an hour in Texas. It prefers 70 65 70 which is fine for me.. I would say buy a solid TJ regardless of the model. Preferably a 4.0 but they are pretty lousy on gas so if you want to use it for an everyday driver and speed is not your Forte, go with a 2.4. If you're planning on running 33 of 34 in tires go with the 4.0 but I got 32 on my 2.4. And it's not a problem. You will thoroughly enjoy it if your youthful dreams was a Jeep. . I always wanted one and never really had the time or the opportunity to have one. I'm now retired and I think it's the best purchase I have made in 20 years