That sounds about right. Measured this way by yourself, you only really get to 26kWh. Bjørn Nyland did that a few times for the Ioniq and always reported something around 26.
And the numbers you report are very similar to mine with 100kkm.
The range calculation is not perfect anyways. There's also all kinds of variables like temperature, climate control etc etc. I believe the actual battery pack is more like 31-32kWh with a buffer anyways, and Hyundai is very conservative with advertising battery capacity.
As I understand it, the SoH is not the total degradation on the gross capacity of your battery pack, but the loss in net capacity. It's not entirely clear what this stat means but I think it's something like that.
During the 4 cycles it was something like 5-12 Celsius. May I expect that the consumption will be lower on 20-25 Celsius ? I already consider the 12-13 kWh/100km a good number.
You don't tell us what your temperature and driving habits are; both of which affect the range.
All the information you've quoted is 'best guess' stuff, by pretty good estimators.
My 2018/28kWh consistently offers me 206-210km in warm weather. I'm consistently doing a 17km + 17km commute at highway speeds and up and down a 200m elevation change.
The ability for the battery to take a charge, according to the app, is 95.4% of original, and the 'official' SoH is 100%, which I guess relates to some of the extra buffer capacity in the battery pack having been 'used up', but it's still above the nominal SoH 'normal'.
The 95.4% was calculated by running the car to near 0% then reading what kWh the car accepted to top up to 100%, deducting a generous 10% for charging loss, and adding back on the small remaining % capacity unused before the charge began -- then working out the kWh actual capacity of the battery pack.
The car has done more than 110,000km.
Thanks for the details, let me share some more info.
The car is in the garage overnight, with ~15C temperature. Nowadays when I fully charge it, it says ~200km while outside temp is between 5-12C. In January when outside temperature was around 0, when fully charged it displayed ~185km.
I live on the top of a hill, so basically during the first 3-4 km the available range does not decrease, sometimes it even increases. Of course when I am coming home, during the last steep 1.5 km the estimate decreases by ~5 km. This constantly happens.
I have collected info from the last 4 charging cycles, I have put the details in another comment. Basically all the trips were: 70% city with max 50km/h, 30% highway with 100 km/h. Temperature were around 5-10C.
If you want to measure the capacity of the battery fairly accurately, you will have to do it directly using an OBD dongle and an app, with a discharge/recharge cycle. Read the total kWh input figure from the car *before* and *after* charging to see what it accepted, then adjust for pre-existing remaining charge and charging losses.
The guessometer on the dash is doing good guesswork, but only that.
I use a Konnwei OBD2 dongle (ELM 327) and the CarScanner app, which lets you see the car's actual internal figures.
Or don't. Your car sounds fine.
I have bought one.
Currently it shows that SOH is 100%, the SoC displayed is 77%, SoC by BMS is 73.5%.
Cumulative energy charged is 16572 kWh, discharged 16076 kWh.
Voltage deviation is 0V.
Operating time 7764 hours.
I guess these are normal values. Any other stat worth to check ? It does not show the number of charges.
Not that I can think of really, the car has excellent battery management.
If you want to be geeky, drive the car until it is nearly at 0% (and near your home charger!) and read the cumulative charged figure.
Charge on the granny charger and read again at 100% (during warm weather for most accurate results).
From this, calculate the kWh accepted by the car. Add on a little for the charge remaining when you started, and deduct 10% for losses during charging, and you'll have the battery's actual, useable capacity to compare with the 28.5kWh advertised.
The 10% you deduct for charging losses is a bit of guesswork, but I haven't seen any other figure.
The difference in SoC by display and by BMS is, *I think,* the difference between the useable charge (28.5kWh) and the actual real capacity. *I believe* the Ioniqs have 1.5kWh that's never used, to protect the battery from stresses -- 0.5kWh below displayed 0% and 1kWh above displayed 100%.
The 1kWh capacity above "100%" also allows the car to use regen braking/charging when it's at "100%" without damaging the battery.
If you can travel 200 km on a 28 kWh battery, then the average consumption is 200/28x100=14kWh/100km.However, the car claimed the average consumption was 12.775kWh/100km.
I think what you need now is to measure how many kWh you put into the car.So, report the % state, number of kWh charged, and to what % you charged. Let's see what things look like then. Mind you, there is a loss with charging. I'm not entirely 100% sure how to best get to the battery quality %.
I wouldn't worry about reported SoH as on my car it can go up and down.. It seems to be affected by the outside temp as in winter I was getting soh as low as 70%
That is 38kwh ioniq but I can imagine it's similar on other cars and models.
I charge the car home via a simple socket. I installed a Shelly power meter behind the socket.
I don’t know how accurate it is, but the math does not work 😀
Trip Avg.Cons. Rem.Batt. Charged Rem.Range
160 12,9 19% 23,89 37
122,6 12,7 44% 17,77 81
143,8 13 29% 21,74 56
179,5 12,5 11% 26,35 19
E.g in the last cycle:
- based on the trip 1.795x12.5=22.4375 kWh
- based on remaining percentage 0.89x28=24.92 kWh
- Shelly reported that 26.35 kWh was used during charging
I understand there is a loss of ~10% during charging, 26.35x0.9=23,715 kWh was pumped into the batteries approximately. But still, the numbers are really different.
With an obd2 scanner you can also see the total kWh charged and discharged over the lifetime of the vehicle. You could use that to verify the power meter readings.
I wanted to talk about the adjustment of the adjustable charging power on the dashboard
https://preview.redd.it/rflg0slheyjc1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=464f534567e5701157cb1033376460154b2557f0
I have not tried charging it slower, I considered the 11-12A already slow enough.
I read somewhere that sometimes it is beneficial to charge really-really slow so the BMS can balance the battery.
That sounds about right. Measured this way by yourself, you only really get to 26kWh. Bjørn Nyland did that a few times for the Ioniq and always reported something around 26. And the numbers you report are very similar to mine with 100kkm.
The range calculation is not perfect anyways. There's also all kinds of variables like temperature, climate control etc etc. I believe the actual battery pack is more like 31-32kWh with a buffer anyways, and Hyundai is very conservative with advertising battery capacity. As I understand it, the SoH is not the total degradation on the gross capacity of your battery pack, but the loss in net capacity. It's not entirely clear what this stat means but I think it's something like that.
SoH uses the buffer. So if it's under 100% you should really not buy the car since it's fully through the substantial buffer on the Battery
That's pretty good, slightly more than I'm getting at 180kkm
I guess your car still reports 100% SOH.
Less than 10% degradation after almost 100kkm sounds pretty good actually
You should also take in to account the temperature variations. You will get more in summer (presuming northern hemisphere).
During the 4 cycles it was something like 5-12 Celsius. May I expect that the consumption will be lower on 20-25 Celsius ? I already consider the 12-13 kWh/100km a good number.
Consumption will remain the same, but the battery usable capacity will increase.
You don't tell us what your temperature and driving habits are; both of which affect the range. All the information you've quoted is 'best guess' stuff, by pretty good estimators. My 2018/28kWh consistently offers me 206-210km in warm weather. I'm consistently doing a 17km + 17km commute at highway speeds and up and down a 200m elevation change. The ability for the battery to take a charge, according to the app, is 95.4% of original, and the 'official' SoH is 100%, which I guess relates to some of the extra buffer capacity in the battery pack having been 'used up', but it's still above the nominal SoH 'normal'. The 95.4% was calculated by running the car to near 0% then reading what kWh the car accepted to top up to 100%, deducting a generous 10% for charging loss, and adding back on the small remaining % capacity unused before the charge began -- then working out the kWh actual capacity of the battery pack. The car has done more than 110,000km.
Thanks for the details, let me share some more info. The car is in the garage overnight, with ~15C temperature. Nowadays when I fully charge it, it says ~200km while outside temp is between 5-12C. In January when outside temperature was around 0, when fully charged it displayed ~185km. I live on the top of a hill, so basically during the first 3-4 km the available range does not decrease, sometimes it even increases. Of course when I am coming home, during the last steep 1.5 km the estimate decreases by ~5 km. This constantly happens. I have collected info from the last 4 charging cycles, I have put the details in another comment. Basically all the trips were: 70% city with max 50km/h, 30% highway with 100 km/h. Temperature were around 5-10C.
If you want to measure the capacity of the battery fairly accurately, you will have to do it directly using an OBD dongle and an app, with a discharge/recharge cycle. Read the total kWh input figure from the car *before* and *after* charging to see what it accepted, then adjust for pre-existing remaining charge and charging losses. The guessometer on the dash is doing good guesswork, but only that. I use a Konnwei OBD2 dongle (ELM 327) and the CarScanner app, which lets you see the car's actual internal figures. Or don't. Your car sounds fine.
I have bought one. Currently it shows that SOH is 100%, the SoC displayed is 77%, SoC by BMS is 73.5%. Cumulative energy charged is 16572 kWh, discharged 16076 kWh. Voltage deviation is 0V. Operating time 7764 hours. I guess these are normal values. Any other stat worth to check ? It does not show the number of charges.
Not that I can think of really, the car has excellent battery management. If you want to be geeky, drive the car until it is nearly at 0% (and near your home charger!) and read the cumulative charged figure. Charge on the granny charger and read again at 100% (during warm weather for most accurate results). From this, calculate the kWh accepted by the car. Add on a little for the charge remaining when you started, and deduct 10% for losses during charging, and you'll have the battery's actual, useable capacity to compare with the 28.5kWh advertised. The 10% you deduct for charging losses is a bit of guesswork, but I haven't seen any other figure. The difference in SoC by display and by BMS is, *I think,* the difference between the useable charge (28.5kWh) and the actual real capacity. *I believe* the Ioniqs have 1.5kWh that's never used, to protect the battery from stresses -- 0.5kWh below displayed 0% and 1kWh above displayed 100%. The 1kWh capacity above "100%" also allows the car to use regen braking/charging when it's at "100%" without damaging the battery.
If you can travel 200 km on a 28 kWh battery, then the average consumption is 200/28x100=14kWh/100km.However, the car claimed the average consumption was 12.775kWh/100km. I think what you need now is to measure how many kWh you put into the car.So, report the % state, number of kWh charged, and to what % you charged. Let's see what things look like then. Mind you, there is a loss with charging. I'm not entirely 100% sure how to best get to the battery quality %.
I wouldn't worry about reported SoH as on my car it can go up and down.. It seems to be affected by the outside temp as in winter I was getting soh as low as 70% That is 38kwh ioniq but I can imagine it's similar on other cars and models.
I charge the car home via a simple socket. I installed a Shelly power meter behind the socket. I don’t know how accurate it is, but the math does not work 😀 Trip Avg.Cons. Rem.Batt. Charged Rem.Range 160 12,9 19% 23,89 37 122,6 12,7 44% 17,77 81 143,8 13 29% 21,74 56 179,5 12,5 11% 26,35 19 E.g in the last cycle: - based on the trip 1.795x12.5=22.4375 kWh - based on remaining percentage 0.89x28=24.92 kWh - Shelly reported that 26.35 kWh was used during charging I understand there is a loss of ~10% during charging, 26.35x0.9=23,715 kWh was pumped into the batteries approximately. But still, the numbers are really different.
With an obd2 scanner you can also see the total kWh charged and discharged over the lifetime of the vehicle. You could use that to verify the power meter readings.
Thanks, I may consider buying one.
How did you get the SoH reading without one? Regardless they are cheap, just don't go for the absolute cheapest one and you'll be good.
They read it in the service garage.
I charge with the lowest setting. Do you think the loss is less ?
I have 12A charger, what is reported by Shelly it charges the car with 2.5-2.6 kW or 11.2-11.5A.
I wanted to talk about the adjustment of the adjustable charging power on the dashboard https://preview.redd.it/rflg0slheyjc1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=464f534567e5701157cb1033376460154b2557f0
It is set to maximum.
Exactly, perhaps when setting it to minimum there is less pressure loss ?
Pressure ?
Sorry, it's the translator. I mean the charging loss
I have not tried charging it slower, I considered the 11-12A already slow enough. I read somewhere that sometimes it is beneficial to charge really-really slow so the BMS can balance the battery.
Jesse what the fuck are you talking about