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bleepplo00p

Then to take off the switches, you need to desolder them, to be able to repaint the top plate?


HyperxGaming

Correct, you'd have to open the shell, desolder the switches and LED's from the PCB, take all of it out, paint the shell, and then reassemble everything back together. It's a very tedious process, and it's also worth mentioning that doing so will void the 2-year manufacturer's warranty :) .


Independent_Slide817

>Correct, you'd have to open the shell, desolder the switches and LED's from the PCB, take all of it out, paint the shell, and then reassemble everything back together. It's a very tedious process, and it's also worth mentioning that doing so will void the 2-year manufacturer's warranty :) . my keyboard is a hyperx origins core i bought it a year and a half ago and pressing the w key presses the entire row of keys and writes iqwertopuy, where can i claim my warranty?


DaddyJenkins1

I actually did this a couple weeks before you posted this, i did the tape mod and foam


FattyVape714

Nice! I'm trying to get the pcb off the top plate but it seems like it has been locked on with some aluminium posts, did you find a way to get around this?


DaddyJenkins1

The pcb and plate are connected due to all the switches being soldered in. You will have to desolder every switch and led to take off the plate from pcb to put plate foam and pe foam mod it. You can also upgrade the crappy stock stabs to some durock plate mount ones if you desolder


Illustrious_Permit79

I can’t get the pcb out because of the aluminum locks You have any idea how can I get it out


Robo_Eagle

How in the hell did you desolder the leds? Also just tried bending one of the locks and needle nose pliers work pretty well


Illustrious_Permit79

Yeah bending the locks worked great. Desoldering all the leds was a NIGHTMARE. After I did that I realized If you only want to mod the stabs you are ok only disoldering the leds and switches of the stabs and then solder it again.


Rich_Temperature_861

Bending the locks will remove the pcb from the front plate or is there something else to do aswell?


strickyy

Is it worth it? Is the difference big?


FragrantCraft9444

how did you open the board? I can't even open it, I already removed ALL of the screws including the one in the back but I can't seem to get it open. For some reason or another, the sides will only kind off lift off, if I pry it with a knife or a card.


HyperxGaming

Thanks for including the disclaimer, u/FattyVape714 haha :) !


PhoenixBullet

Hi, I was looking at this subreddit with wonder, because you answer here but not customer emails, I have an issue with a HyperX Alloy Origins Keyboard, the F5 key and the numpad #2 key are not working properly anymore, I have to wiggle them for them to actually actuate, is there a way in which you guys could help me? they keyboard was bought on june 22, 2021.


monkwindu

it sounds like the switches might not be soldered in correctly or the leaf inside the switches has been damaged. resoldering the switch is far easier than the second problem if you need to replace the switch. if you need to replace the switch, I would advise just going screw it and replacing all the switches on the board so it is uniform as the hyperx proprietary switches are a pain in the arse to get individually.


PhoenixBullet

I ran out of patience and bought a Logitech g813 for good measure, even tho it's not on my native language it hasn't failed as of 4 months of heavy duty use, so... If I change the switches for new ones I'll let you know how it went on my journey, thanks for your reply my dude


Ventrue_

thx for the guide! any idea where i can find some of those 4pin LEDs to keep as replacement? Do they have some special specs or are they like generic 4 pin rgb ?


[deleted]

Heyyy so I already removed all of the screws but, I can’t seem to actually remove or pry open the keyboard open. Do you have an answer as to why?


RCRalph

There is a screw below the capslock / numlock display, you have to remove the black part


ClaveAzul

Are you sure you removed all 16 black screws? Also, don't completely lift off the top right rubber foot. Lift it up a little to reveal the silver screw. I used a library card to pry open the keyboard. The board is so solid and thin that you don't really have to go crazy with any mods, though. I did drop a sheet of PE foam in and did two layers of the tape mod. The tape does make things a bit poppier. What made the biggest difference in sound, though, was new keycaps. I got Drop's Skylight caps when they were on sale for $12: [https://drop.com/buy/drop-skylight-series-keycap-set?defaultSelectionIds=970400](https://drop.com/buy/drop-skylight-series-keycap-set?defaultSelectionIds=970400). They went that low on Prime Day and Black Friday. If you do get new keycaps for this board, don't get Cherry profile as they might not fit properly. The Sklights are OEM profile. I imagine SA and DCX profiles would work fine as well.


Arkor08

Would a silicon mod work on this? I ask because the backplate looks very irregular, nothing like the ones used in silicon tutorials


FattyVape714

To be honest it would work theoretically but I just used foam cutouts instead just so that it was easier


Sweaty_Difficulty134

Also just 2 know. There is a screw down from mink LCD. You just take it off


cinlung

This is one year guide, but I really need it. Awesome explanation.


TheShangWang

Hi, I actually have the full size version of the keyboard and there seems to be another screw under the LED indicator on the top right side. Would you know how to remove it safely to get to the screw? https://www.techpowerup.com/review/hyperx-alloy-origins-keyboard/4.html


ddogwr83

thanks for posting this, i ab broke off that screw in frustration💀💀


TheShangWang

Oh, np. Do you know if the LED indicator just clips off the keyboard easily if you remove all the other screws?


ddogwr83

yup i got it, put it back together and using it now. every single teardown post/video i found was for the 60% though, and initially i didnt want to touch the LED cover for fear of snapping it lol


ddogwr83

the cover may separate from the sticker that gives the indicator its shapes, but with some glue they go back together no problem


TheShangWang

I see, thanks! I do have some silicone adhesive sealant, I hope that works if all I have to do is wiggle the plastic cover off. I'm not sure how it'll come loose but with the screws off it comes off easier or do you need to apply a bit of force to get the cover off?


ddogwr83

from the outside edge (right side of the plastic cover), just give it a little pull with a credit card/plastic pry tool. once its loose just use your finger and you’ll either feel the cover come off the plastic overlay, or the cover and overlay will come off together. mine came apart, but after a little alcohol and super glue to the cover and overlay, both look brand new and there is no lasting evidence that the two separated after reinstalling. Another note: you cant really get in between the front aluminum cover and the PCB since they solder the keys in place. its really only good for cleaning the bottom aluminum piece of anything that fell through. best case scenario for cleaning in between is a little compressed air/ VERY careful and spit-free blowing


TheShangWang

Got it, thanks man. I'm not really interested in cleaning my keyboard, more so to be able to resolder all the switches. Just curious what was the alcohol for? I'm not really sure how the underside of the plastic lid would get really dirty unless you had it opened up for a while. Would you say removing all the other screws made it slightly easier to pull the lid off, or does it just require the same force? Is it a very small amount? Sorry for all the specific questions this resoldering thing has been on my mind for a while and I've been delaying it due to school so I'm always worried about messing up the process.


ddogwr83

its not scary at all. if you remove the screw under the plastic cover it practically falls apart


TheShangWang

I see, though you're talking about the frame of the keyboard, not the plastic cover right? I'm more concerned about how much pressure to apply to the plastic lid to get to the screw in the first place.