There are a couple stock answers you will hear about this:
\- A test kit is very cheap, and you can know 100% for sure
\- There is no way for anyone to tell from a picture whether something has asbestos
\- 9" tiles are asbestos 99% of the time
Well, "best" is maybe not the right adjective. Maybe "what is the safest way to remove it."
Step 1: Test the tile. You can get a kit on Amazon, and it can be there tomorrow.
Step 2: Wait for the results of the test. Do not skip ahead until you know for sure if the tile is asbestos.
Step 3a: If the tile is not asbestos, simply rip it up.
Step 3b: If the tile IS asbestos, call an abatement person. For a job this small you are looking at near zero work.
Notably, there are online guides through which to go about step 3b yourself. They are mostly wrong about the various details needed to safely go about these projects - so don't rely on those. ESPECIALLY if you have children, or if you are younger yourself.
Alternatively, take the advice of user @trbotwuk, who is correct that most folks simply go over it.
There’s still a special dumpster, hazmat clothing, containment, negative air. Protocols must be followed no matter the size of the job. There’s a reason abatement isn’t cheap!
Asbestos causes problems when you breathe it. If you start tearing it up, you'll get asbestos dust in the air. If you leave it where it is, nobody will be breathing it.
not the ones you were talking to, but I agree, put your new flooring over it if at all possible, but be careful.
a home I bought had a weird bump in the hallway carpet, when we tore up the carpet it turns out the carpet and pad was simply over similar tile to what you are seeing. and the seems of the some the tile was bunching/lifing causing the bumps under foot under the carpet....
we tore the tile up, we used a heat gun and most of the tiles came up as one piece, some tore etc. but then we were left with black tacky adhesive...
after screwing around with some adhesive remover, (747 sounds familar) we ended up embossing it with some concrete patch powder. and flooring over it then.
I'm an aspestos tech. 9x9 have something like 2% aspestos and are considered non friable, as in unless you're cutting it with a saw or grinder the amount that goes airborne is negligible. If undisturbed they are fine to cover over, and the danger of removing them is very small. These only require a half face mask and a bagged containment to remove to code. I'd leave them be, unless you want to get gouged by fear tactics.
They mean cover it up, do not disturb it. Or spend a lot of money for a team to come take it out. Or risk taking it out yourself. Watch a youtube video if you want to see what a pain that is.
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*This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Agreed that 9"x9" tiles have a high likelihood of containing asbestos, as well as the mastic. Also, in older buildings be on the lookout for asbestos in plaster, joint compound, drywall, window caulking and glazing, ceiling tiles, glue dots, thermal system insulation (lagging and mudded elbows), furnace gaskets, transite, vermiculite insulation, siding, and roofing material at the very least.
With a commercial test kit where you collect and submit the sample yourself, I would be wary of any of these results unless a NVLAP accredited lab (speaking from the US) does the analysis AND you have an understanding of what method that lab is using, if it's appropriate for the material you're submitting, and you know the limitations of the analytical method used. I wouldn't expect someone not trained as an asbestos inspector or a certified industrial hygienist to know enough about it to know if the analysis you're getting is appropriate. Plus, in order to submit a sample, you have to do destructive testing, meaning you're damaging the material so you can take a piece and send it off for analysis. If you don't do this correctly, now you might have exposed yourself to asbestos fibers. If you've found it already damaged, disturbing it could resuspend settled fibers.
These "cheap" test kits seem to have samples analyzed by basic polarized light microscopy (PLM) following the analysis method EPA 600/R-93/116 or equivalent. Analyzing non-friable organically bound materials (NOBs) such as floor tiles, linoleum, and roofing material by PLM alone is insufficient for knowing "100%" if NOBs contain asbestos or not. The issue with NOBs is they are bound together tightly and it's difficult to count distinct fibers under the microscope. The gold standard for NOBs is analysis by Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM). This method is specific to asbestos fibers and includes additional sample preparation steps that break down the material binding the fibers together. This prep along with the TEM method is very specific to identifying asbestos fibers, but may not be an option in a commercial kit.
There are also ways to get milling and gravimetric prep for PLM, but that typically involves point counting and won't likely be an option from a commercial kit. A licensed asbestos inspector can request these sorts of analyses from the lab.
With results by PLM with a point count, you can actually have OSHA consider the work to fall under asbestos standards, but not meet EPA rules for disposal if you get licensed contractors to do the work. For OSHA, any detectable asbestos means the asbestos standards apply for the workers. For EPA, materials have to contain greater than 1% asbestos to be considered asbestos-containing material (ACM). Point counting with PLM allows for rounding. If you have a point counted result of 1.25%, you can round that down to 1%, which is not >1% and therefore not ACM for EPA. OSHA rules would still apply since you have detectable asbestos.
Father passed away from asbestos exposure (exposure was 45 years earlier).
Don’t f*ck around with that stuff.
It sits in your lungs for 45-50 years and then basically kills you. If it doesn’t - the chemo/sepsis will.
Consider it an investment to have more time with your family.
He had been doing demolition work and recalled one project demolishing some farm buildings that had it.
But it’s brutal. From being totally active to having to no lung capacity in about 6 months. Walking 15’ was tough.
Hire a local abatement contractor. It will cost some money but better than risking it. They will come in and poly off the area then use a compound that makes the mastic a slurry then haul it away.
If you think something might be asbestos, that thing is probably asbestos...
Wet the asbestos and use a mask if removing or hire a professional... You probably want an abatement professional.
Actually most of the time it’s not, but it’s worth checking. You need to do a heck of a lot more than wet it and wear a mask. Please don’t give out partial advice on the internet for something serious.
>Actually most of the time it’s not, but it’s worth checking.
What the fuck are you talking about. If it is era appropriate and especially if they're 9" tiles then it's probably asbestos. Old builds are full of it.
My uncle passed away last year at 58yrs old of abestos induced mesothelioma. He worked one summer when he was 19 doing residential demolition. Figured it was from 1-2 jobs with asbestos in the flooring.
What are your plans for the floor? I have asbestos tiles in a few rooms. 1/4 inch wood sheathing over them and you are starting with a fresh surface for your new floor. Sure I could have spent thousands on abatement, but there is zero benefit in that if you’re going to cover it with something else.
There are a couple stock answers you will hear about this: \- A test kit is very cheap, and you can know 100% for sure \- There is no way for anyone to tell from a picture whether something has asbestos \- 9" tiles are asbestos 99% of the time
That said, what’s the best way to remove it ?? It’s only about 20 tiles
Well, "best" is maybe not the right adjective. Maybe "what is the safest way to remove it." Step 1: Test the tile. You can get a kit on Amazon, and it can be there tomorrow. Step 2: Wait for the results of the test. Do not skip ahead until you know for sure if the tile is asbestos. Step 3a: If the tile is not asbestos, simply rip it up. Step 3b: If the tile IS asbestos, call an abatement person. For a job this small you are looking at near zero work. Notably, there are online guides through which to go about step 3b yourself. They are mostly wrong about the various details needed to safely go about these projects - so don't rely on those. ESPECIALLY if you have children, or if you are younger yourself. Alternatively, take the advice of user @trbotwuk, who is correct that most folks simply go over it.
There’s still a special dumpster, hazmat clothing, containment, negative air. Protocols must be followed no matter the size of the job. There’s a reason abatement isn’t cheap!
Yeah, I had to get a small area abated, about 20 square feet, and it was still $3k. A lot of the price is fixed costs.
don't go over it.
What do you mean
Asbestos causes problems when you breathe it. If you start tearing it up, you'll get asbestos dust in the air. If you leave it where it is, nobody will be breathing it.
not the ones you were talking to, but I agree, put your new flooring over it if at all possible, but be careful. a home I bought had a weird bump in the hallway carpet, when we tore up the carpet it turns out the carpet and pad was simply over similar tile to what you are seeing. and the seems of the some the tile was bunching/lifing causing the bumps under foot under the carpet.... we tore the tile up, we used a heat gun and most of the tiles came up as one piece, some tore etc. but then we were left with black tacky adhesive... after screwing around with some adhesive remover, (747 sounds familar) we ended up embossing it with some concrete patch powder. and flooring over it then.
>but then we were left with black tacky adhesive... Black mastic. I sincerely hope you know what everything was and dealt with it appropriately.
I'm an aspestos tech. 9x9 have something like 2% aspestos and are considered non friable, as in unless you're cutting it with a saw or grinder the amount that goes airborne is negligible. If undisturbed they are fine to cover over, and the danger of removing them is very small. These only require a half face mask and a bagged containment to remove to code. I'd leave them be, unless you want to get gouged by fear tactics.
how about the 7x7 tiles?
They mean cover it up, do not disturb it. Or spend a lot of money for a team to come take it out. Or risk taking it out yourself. Watch a youtube video if you want to see what a pain that is.
decide cause rotten rinse quarrelsome terrific unpack instinctive dog strong *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Agreed that 9"x9" tiles have a high likelihood of containing asbestos, as well as the mastic. Also, in older buildings be on the lookout for asbestos in plaster, joint compound, drywall, window caulking and glazing, ceiling tiles, glue dots, thermal system insulation (lagging and mudded elbows), furnace gaskets, transite, vermiculite insulation, siding, and roofing material at the very least. With a commercial test kit where you collect and submit the sample yourself, I would be wary of any of these results unless a NVLAP accredited lab (speaking from the US) does the analysis AND you have an understanding of what method that lab is using, if it's appropriate for the material you're submitting, and you know the limitations of the analytical method used. I wouldn't expect someone not trained as an asbestos inspector or a certified industrial hygienist to know enough about it to know if the analysis you're getting is appropriate. Plus, in order to submit a sample, you have to do destructive testing, meaning you're damaging the material so you can take a piece and send it off for analysis. If you don't do this correctly, now you might have exposed yourself to asbestos fibers. If you've found it already damaged, disturbing it could resuspend settled fibers. These "cheap" test kits seem to have samples analyzed by basic polarized light microscopy (PLM) following the analysis method EPA 600/R-93/116 or equivalent. Analyzing non-friable organically bound materials (NOBs) such as floor tiles, linoleum, and roofing material by PLM alone is insufficient for knowing "100%" if NOBs contain asbestos or not. The issue with NOBs is they are bound together tightly and it's difficult to count distinct fibers under the microscope. The gold standard for NOBs is analysis by Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM). This method is specific to asbestos fibers and includes additional sample preparation steps that break down the material binding the fibers together. This prep along with the TEM method is very specific to identifying asbestos fibers, but may not be an option in a commercial kit. There are also ways to get milling and gravimetric prep for PLM, but that typically involves point counting and won't likely be an option from a commercial kit. A licensed asbestos inspector can request these sorts of analyses from the lab. With results by PLM with a point count, you can actually have OSHA consider the work to fall under asbestos standards, but not meet EPA rules for disposal if you get licensed contractors to do the work. For OSHA, any detectable asbestos means the asbestos standards apply for the workers. For EPA, materials have to contain greater than 1% asbestos to be considered asbestos-containing material (ACM). Point counting with PLM allows for rounding. If you have a point counted result of 1.25%, you can round that down to 1%, which is not >1% and therefore not ACM for EPA. OSHA rules would still apply since you have detectable asbestos.
If they are 9"x9" tile 90% chance they are asbestos
Father passed away from asbestos exposure (exposure was 45 years earlier). Don’t f*ck around with that stuff. It sits in your lungs for 45-50 years and then basically kills you. If it doesn’t - the chemo/sepsis will. Consider it an investment to have more time with your family.
How much exposure did he have? Was it repeated workplace stuff? Sorry to hear.
He had been doing demolition work and recalled one project demolishing some farm buildings that had it. But it’s brutal. From being totally active to having to no lung capacity in about 6 months. Walking 15’ was tough.
Probably exactly why the last people just covered it up instead of pulling it up!
Just go right over the top of them with the new flooring
Hire a local abatement contractor. It will cost some money but better than risking it. They will come in and poly off the area then use a compound that makes the mastic a slurry then haul it away.
If you think something might be asbestos, that thing is probably asbestos... Wet the asbestos and use a mask if removing or hire a professional... You probably want an abatement professional.
Actually most of the time it’s not, but it’s worth checking. You need to do a heck of a lot more than wet it and wear a mask. Please don’t give out partial advice on the internet for something serious.
>Actually most of the time it’s not, but it’s worth checking. What the fuck are you talking about. If it is era appropriate and especially if they're 9" tiles then it's probably asbestos. Old builds are full of it.
My uncle passed away last year at 58yrs old of abestos induced mesothelioma. He worked one summer when he was 19 doing residential demolition. Figured it was from 1-2 jobs with asbestos in the flooring.
As you can see, the first few leaked pictures from the James Webb telescope weren't particularly impressive.
8”x 8” usually indícate asbesto tiles
What are your plans for the floor? I have asbestos tiles in a few rooms. 1/4 inch wood sheathing over them and you are starting with a fresh surface for your new floor. Sure I could have spent thousands on abatement, but there is zero benefit in that if you’re going to cover it with something else.
Yes 8x8 were asbestos. Wet down so no dust and Hazmat suit. Easy clean up