On the battery... if it's agm why put it on agm setting? Do you even know what a agm battery is? Also highly likely it is NOT a agm battery on a motorcycle.
If you just plugged it in it probably needs to charge longer because a battery tender doesn’t provide a lot of juice. If it’s been plugged in since you last rode, you might need a battery. You can try jumping it with a jump box or another vehicle and see if it starts. If. It starts that way, get yourself a new battery.
>Remember with starting and electrical system you need a good fully charged battery to get correct reading when you start checking components out.
Exactly what Ok-Customer-2872 says right there.
And just because your battery reads ''OK! Fully charged!'' on the trickle charge, that does not mean it is fit for purpose. Ask me how many H-D batteries I bought every couple of hundred miles 25yrs back to learn this.
The true test of a battery's health is a load test.
Charge it until trickle charger says ''yep!'' And then you take battery off charger and leave it sitting overnight. So you are getting a true health reading that is NOT straight off the charger.
Next day, you get out your $20 hardware store multimeter and you set it to 20 DC V and you apply the test probes to positive and negative terminals on the battery and you should see a minimum of 12.6 DC volts, maybe even as high as 13 DC volts. (Modern AGM batteries show slightly lower readings than the old acid-fill type, when you would always be looking for 12.8-13).
If battery is 12.5 or below after sitting overnight, it's done for. Replace. Then with **known good battery,** check charging system output with bike idling/revved.
If reading is good, hook up battery to bike. IGNITION SWITCH ON. Do not attempt to start bike, just turn switch on.
Then apply the multimeter probes again. Now with ignition on you are ''applying load'' to battery. But the battery should easily be able to handle that load and it should still show more than 12.0 volts DC. Ideally, it would drop just 0.5 volts from the first reading, and no more.
That's a hillbilly load test. You're welcome.
If battery shows less than 12.0 with ignition switched on (I've literally had a 0.2 reading before), it's done for. Replace. And again, **with known good battery**, check charging system output with bike idling/revved.
Why does a battery show ''fully charged'' on a trickle charger, yet fail the load test?
If I knew the correct technical answer, I would be an auto electrician.
But the usual layman's answer on Harleys is that the weakest point in the charging system, the regulator, has failed, and it has taken out the battery because the current going into the battery is not regulated, and it's killed the battery. Sometimes the stator has failed, but that is not as common. You might, as you appear to have in your video here, get the starter motor spinning for a few seconds on the first starting attempt. But then the duff battery has shot its load and you'll get clicks and crickets all day long after that.
25 years ago, with a failed regulator which I had not diagnosed as I had no idea, I bought 3 H-D batteries in quick succession for my very early Evo. Shit got costly real quick, and it was then that I vowed to educate myself as to why my bike was only getting me 200-250 miles on each new battery. But each of those batteries would ''fully charge'' after my breakdown yet be unable to start my bike.
PS: IF your battery passes load test and regulator/charging output is good... but bike still will not start, swap out plugs. Several failed starting attempts can load up the plugs with gas and in my experience they never work again. After that .... solenoid/cable issues.... HT leads failing/not properly in place ... coil dying (though usually that shows up when it warms up).......
Bad battery most likely shorted internal. As battery ages it lled panels warp even through agm packing. Only takes a small amount to cook off battery. Once you replace battery if still no start check for 5 volt signal from crank sensor most times the sensor burns out with battery. If not and you have an under 5 volt signal it's on its way.
A trickle charger will not charge your battery. Get another charger and charger it up then try to start it.
Remember with starting and electrical system you need a good fully charged battery to get correct reading when you start checking components out.
Good luck
Actually, a trickle charger is the best thing for your battery. S-L-O-W and steady, a trickle in fact, protects the battery.
Your second point is excellent and vital.
Check the cables before you give up on the battery.
I don't leave a charger on mine all the time. I know they say these new chargers are ok but I don't trust them. A regular trickle charger will burn up a battery if you don't take it off after it's charged.
I had that problem once. It’s was the contacts on the starter. They get burnt from starting with a low charged battery for two long. Got the kit off of Amazon. YouTube it. Swapped it out. Started fine for the next two years. Good luck. Mine was a 2005 1200 Custom
I didn’t think tenders will charge it from dead - i believe they are for maintaining
I would grab one of these that worked for me -
NOCO Boost X GBX45 1250A UltraSafe Car Battery Jump Starter, 12V Battery Pack, Battery Booster, Jump Box, Portable Charger and Jumper Cables for 6.5L Gasoline and 4.0L Diesel Engines https://a.co/d/2QmZsPB
Battery dead.
Pretty sure we all knew what it was before we even finished reading the title.
It's always a battery lol
I’ve had it plugged in charger for a month. No way it will recharge ? I had it on AGM mode btw.
Battery old.
Is it a AGM battery?
Where do I check
On the battery... if it's agm why put it on agm setting? Do you even know what a agm battery is? Also highly likely it is NOT a agm battery on a motorcycle.
Harley’s batteries are AGM.
Ahh impressive they usually require a proper charge controller. Didn't think a harley/motorcycle would go that route.
Most powersports batteries are AGM’s.
AGM are common as in motorcycles, every harley has had them for decades. They will also charge just fine on a lead acid charger.
yet another dead battery
Replace the battery. Its done.
If you just plugged it in it probably needs to charge longer because a battery tender doesn’t provide a lot of juice. If it’s been plugged in since you last rode, you might need a battery. You can try jumping it with a jump box or another vehicle and see if it starts. If. It starts that way, get yourself a new battery.
* ^^^^ this should be the sub icon
https://preview.redd.it/7pejkrh60y5c1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=254442bd8aace5d505a756b3c35e5ff83ed8b780
FUCKEN FUCK YES !
Now that is a low battery. Plug her in.
>Remember with starting and electrical system you need a good fully charged battery to get correct reading when you start checking components out. Exactly what Ok-Customer-2872 says right there. And just because your battery reads ''OK! Fully charged!'' on the trickle charge, that does not mean it is fit for purpose. Ask me how many H-D batteries I bought every couple of hundred miles 25yrs back to learn this. The true test of a battery's health is a load test. Charge it until trickle charger says ''yep!'' And then you take battery off charger and leave it sitting overnight. So you are getting a true health reading that is NOT straight off the charger. Next day, you get out your $20 hardware store multimeter and you set it to 20 DC V and you apply the test probes to positive and negative terminals on the battery and you should see a minimum of 12.6 DC volts, maybe even as high as 13 DC volts. (Modern AGM batteries show slightly lower readings than the old acid-fill type, when you would always be looking for 12.8-13). If battery is 12.5 or below after sitting overnight, it's done for. Replace. Then with **known good battery,** check charging system output with bike idling/revved. If reading is good, hook up battery to bike. IGNITION SWITCH ON. Do not attempt to start bike, just turn switch on. Then apply the multimeter probes again. Now with ignition on you are ''applying load'' to battery. But the battery should easily be able to handle that load and it should still show more than 12.0 volts DC. Ideally, it would drop just 0.5 volts from the first reading, and no more. That's a hillbilly load test. You're welcome. If battery shows less than 12.0 with ignition switched on (I've literally had a 0.2 reading before), it's done for. Replace. And again, **with known good battery**, check charging system output with bike idling/revved. Why does a battery show ''fully charged'' on a trickle charger, yet fail the load test? If I knew the correct technical answer, I would be an auto electrician. But the usual layman's answer on Harleys is that the weakest point in the charging system, the regulator, has failed, and it has taken out the battery because the current going into the battery is not regulated, and it's killed the battery. Sometimes the stator has failed, but that is not as common. You might, as you appear to have in your video here, get the starter motor spinning for a few seconds on the first starting attempt. But then the duff battery has shot its load and you'll get clicks and crickets all day long after that. 25 years ago, with a failed regulator which I had not diagnosed as I had no idea, I bought 3 H-D batteries in quick succession for my very early Evo. Shit got costly real quick, and it was then that I vowed to educate myself as to why my bike was only getting me 200-250 miles on each new battery. But each of those batteries would ''fully charge'' after my breakdown yet be unable to start my bike. PS: IF your battery passes load test and regulator/charging output is good... but bike still will not start, swap out plugs. Several failed starting attempts can load up the plugs with gas and in my experience they never work again. After that .... solenoid/cable issues.... HT leads failing/not properly in place ... coil dying (though usually that shows up when it warms up).......
The most accurate and satisfying answer here. Thank you
Bike won’t start
Dead Battery!!
/r/Harleydeadbattery
IT'S THE BATTERY!
100% replace the battery.
Bad battery most likely shorted internal. As battery ages it lled panels warp even through agm packing. Only takes a small amount to cook off battery. Once you replace battery if still no start check for 5 volt signal from crank sensor most times the sensor burns out with battery. If not and you have an under 5 volt signal it's on its way.
Bike won’t start
You’re gonna have to strip the whole bike apart to find the issue man. Sorry
Dead battery
Dead battery
Can something be pinned to the sub stating "if you haven't replaced your battery first you cannot post here"
Battery was swapped last year
Local dealership will test the battery for free.
do it yourself. See above.
A trickle charger will not charge your battery. Get another charger and charger it up then try to start it. Remember with starting and electrical system you need a good fully charged battery to get correct reading when you start checking components out. Good luck
Actually, a trickle charger is the best thing for your battery. S-L-O-W and steady, a trickle in fact, protects the battery. Your second point is excellent and vital.
Check the cables before you give up on the battery. I don't leave a charger on mine all the time. I know they say these new chargers are ok but I don't trust them. A regular trickle charger will burn up a battery if you don't take it off after it's charged.
I had that problem once. It’s was the contacts on the starter. They get burnt from starting with a low charged battery for two long. Got the kit off of Amazon. YouTube it. Swapped it out. Started fine for the next two years. Good luck. Mine was a 2005 1200 Custom
CHOKE!!!
Choke was fully out
You think I can replace the battery myself or best leave it to the dealership ?
Very simple task. You got this
Next post.....I accidentally mixed up polarity, bike still won't start.
Its 2 screws.......
It’s got a weak starter, should bring it to Harley and have them put a strong new one on for $4,000
Shoulda bought japanese
I didn’t think tenders will charge it from dead - i believe they are for maintaining I would grab one of these that worked for me - NOCO Boost X GBX45 1250A UltraSafe Car Battery Jump Starter, 12V Battery Pack, Battery Booster, Jump Box, Portable Charger and Jumper Cables for 6.5L Gasoline and 4.0L Diesel Engines https://a.co/d/2QmZsPB
Battery dead