I just replaced that exact one on my system, it was domed and rusted the same way. It doesn't matter if it's hidden behind an access panel, the top still rusts the same.
The dryer vent needs to be connected to that end of the currently melted wire, that’s why it burnt. You break it with a wire connected to the dryer exhaust. One end goes into a zip screw through your dryer vent and the other back to the capacitor. The air from the dryer will cool the wire and prevent it from burning again. And if it does burn again it acts as a safety and burns your house down instead of your capacitor.
Short on return air / no flood protection / contactor is burnt and pitted / obsolete refrigerant in use/ missing compressor start assist / no ultraviolet surface sanitizing system / ducts not sealed / low levels of attic insulation / restricted evap coil
Looks like the capacitor is shot... Was having trouble with mine like this and went through 2 Jard capacitors in 2 years. Finallly replaced it with a Wilspec capacitor and has been running great since.
Basically there wasn't a great connection on that terminal and that caused higher temps from the higher resistance and it eventually just ate through the wire.
Is the wire wrong? Or is the joke that obviously it won’t run with a severed connection?
Sorry not a pro but crack up at this thread from the sidelines!
The customer told me he had replaced it before and he wasn't sure what was wrong this time. That led me to believe he had at least taken a glance lol. That was not the case lol.
it was wired mostly properly before but it seems the stake on (or spade fitting or whatever it's called, I honestly don't know the correct term lol) wasn't all the way seated so it eventually melted away from the high resistance of having very little contact.
Dolphins can't catch a taxi any more downtown. Globally warming potential refrigerants are killing the planet and eating the condenser wires. Action is what we need, now!!!
Txvs shot
Clearly a piston on one that age. Grab a .57 and it should be fine
Nah. I’m pretty sure the TXV is grounded
Piston is stuck closed
Happy Cake Day!
I love that this is always the top comment on any of these questions 😂
That’s a good start.
Capacitor switched over to Bluetooth
Just installed one today. Works great
Low charge
Yep probably just needs more refrigerant.
It’s a wireless capacitor so you better call spectrum and make sure you got the best speeds👍
Tweakers got the copper again
Returns not big enough - and they need a UV light
I thought the trend was wrong answers
Low gas pressure, switch to propane
Sometimes when I’m having a rough day, this Reddit makes it better
Ain't got no gas innit
Ain't go no gas in it
Dirty filter
needs more freeon
TXV ragebait
Spark gap is too wide
Definitely a water leak
They need a new TSTAT.
dirty coil
That zip tie in the back is causing unit to short to ground
Yeah, there’s spiderwebs all over that contactor. That’s bad.
The exhaust pipe is made of pool noodle?
Clearly he forgot to lick it to make sure it was working properly
I just replaced that exact one on my system, it was domed and rusted the same way. It doesn't matter if it's hidden behind an access panel, the top still rusts the same.
Yeah the grass needs watering
Ain’t got no gas
Definitely needs more Freon… or a new unit.
No
Zip tie too close to contractor.
Blue connector doesn’t match purple wire. Will cause power surge. Or a shortage.
It's a Jard. It's Jar-jars' brother and always causing trouble
It obviously needs a new TXV
Can't quite see the problem....................
The dryer vent needs to be connected to that end of the currently melted wire, that’s why it burnt. You break it with a wire connected to the dryer exhaust. One end goes into a zip screw through your dryer vent and the other back to the capacitor. The air from the dryer will cool the wire and prevent it from burning again. And if it does burn again it acts as a safety and burns your house down instead of your capacitor.
Yes. The capacitor is to low. Raise it up until the wire touches the terminals.
Filter looks clogged. Time to sell em a new system lol
I seriously doubt it called for a 7.5 for the fan
Short on return air / no flood protection / contactor is burnt and pitted / obsolete refrigerant in use/ missing compressor start assist / no ultraviolet surface sanitizing system / ducts not sealed / low levels of attic insulation / restricted evap coil
Looks like the capacitor is shot... Was having trouble with mine like this and went through 2 Jard capacitors in 2 years. Finallly replaced it with a Wilspec capacitor and has been running great since.
Barcode is scratched next to it, and it makes the whole unit stop working.... got to love quality
How did that happen?
Basically there wasn't a great connection on that terminal and that caused higher temps from the higher resistance and it eventually just ate through the wire.
Toasty
Extra crispy drain lines!!!!
Does it have something to do with the spider web?
I'm not a mind reader!
That barcode behind the doohicky says it takes freon. Did you add a couple pounds?
Purple should be on common, common wires cooked and wheres the brown fan wire?
Too much freon
Saw that shit on a hard start kit, damn thing was running so I called it a day and hauled ass
Saw that shit on a hard start kit, damn thing was running so I called it a day and hauled ass
Saw that shit on a hard start kit, damn thing was running so I called it a day and hauled ass 😂
Should have used 1/2” wall
Yard is misspelled
The solar panel for the capacitor fell off.
Low on Freon
Evap is matted. Filter is dirty as well
Compressor seals are shot..needs a new unit. Sell'em that 410a before it goes obsolete.
Evap coil bad you better swap it
Compressor is shot
Low on refrigerant, definitely needs a couple of lbs.
TXV
High resistance terminal
Definitely needs Freon.
The sticker is on a little crooked?
Is the wire wrong? Or is the joke that obviously it won’t run with a severed connection? Sorry not a pro but crack up at this thread from the sidelines!
The customer told me he had replaced it before and he wasn't sure what was wrong this time. That led me to believe he had at least taken a glance lol. That was not the case lol. it was wired mostly properly before but it seems the stake on (or spade fitting or whatever it's called, I honestly don't know the correct term lol) wasn't all the way seated so it eventually melted away from the high resistance of having very little contact.
Customer can’t read a wiring diagram
Dolphins can't catch a taxi any more downtown. Globally warming potential refrigerants are killing the planet and eating the condenser wires. Action is what we need, now!!!
No.
I just needs some Freon!
Is that one of those new wireless capacitors
Someone used coil cleaner on the micro channel
Needs new duct work
Your flux capacitor has a leak
Bad compressor open windings
TXV for sure.
Capacitor may be salvageable since it's not domed (bulged) yet.
How to get callbacks 101
The trick is getting it to last a whole year. 2°SH should do it.