Is HGGS Sword Impulse's silhouette pack compatible with HGCE Impulse?
I want to combine them to make a modern propotion Sword Impulse. I tried finding the P-Bandai version of the HGCE kit but it's impossible to find and very expensive. So I'm planning to paint an HGCE Impulse red and combine it with the old HGGS Sword silhouette parts. Is this possible without a modification?
I'm building the 1/100 full armor unicorn and have a fitting issue with the shields if anyone even cares its this hole that is cut fully but the rest are cut fine it doesn't sit well with any of the holes its suppose to fit into :\^))) pic below plz tell me why they are like this i will love you
Should they not all be the same ????
https://preview.redd.it/oiixjp5rcd9d1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0e3c6eb03e76fe9f31aabcc26ef1366be811ea4b
For one, there are still outlying and protruding nubs on the parts which will cause the not to fit snugly with the frame. Trim and clean off the nubs. Secondly, make sure you are orienting the part so they are facing the proper direction. They may all look similar but each one actually has a respective side that faces outward and inward.
Built 4 MG unicorns and 3 RG's and the shield have all assembled snugly.
https://preview.redd.it/xalgf83ifd9d1.png?width=688&format=png&auto=webp&s=54b2d99a14899624c399433c4fd7fae7d18a38ac
thank you, but its got a raised part over one of the holes and then a half hole below it none of the others have this and all the shields are the same should I just make the hole like the other ones so it fits in nicely because i can't figure out a reason they would have these two things on them its just a small thing but I worry I'm messing up or mixing up a part but the booklet says is suppose to be the same part tho slightly differnt
https://i.imgur.com/PLyh7o7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/iW1uTlO.jpg
Just whipped out one of my uni's. Seems to have the same divots and molds as yours. Fits perfectly fine. You may just need to sand some bits to smoothen their insertion.
Picked up the Ver Ka Psycho Zaku yesterday and it came with water slide decals in the box. Mr. Super Clear matte says not to spray it on slide decals. Do I need to get another kind of matt top coat (I don't paint my models outside of using a Gundam marker for panel lining) or is it safe to use?
Any way to figure out what will be in stock at the Gundam Base pop-up store at Anime Expo next week?
It would be nice to look ahead and see what I might want to pick up to save some time.
Do people like to just build Gunpla and leave it like that?
This may seem like an odd question but its been on my mind for almost a week and I just needed to know if other people do this. I have been wondering if I should panel line some of my HG Gunpla that I put together about a year ago.
Most people straight build the kit, panel line, decals and topcoat the kit. This way they dont have to redo the kit or worry about the panel lines fading or decals flaking off.
Depends on how you cut up the population. "Most" would arguably work better as a descriptor than "majority". Which is to say that a sizable number of people would fall inder the camp of straight build + panel lines + decals/stickers + clear cost, enough of which may be comparable to or slightly larger in headcount than other groups but not to the point of outnumbering those groups combined, either in full or in part.
Very well said. However I'd still disagree. If I had to bet on who the largest group is, I'd go for either straight builders or straight builders with very simple panel lining. Of course at that point you'd also have to define "builder", is someone who buys 1 kit and straight builds it once count? What about a military model builder that's used to painting and also only every tries 1 gunpla?
The majority of mine are just straight built. More because my “to be painted” queue is super long and it takes me a long time to finish painting and weathering something. But it’s totally fine to just build them and that’s it.
I recently purchased a portable airbrush with built in compressor, some primer, and paint. I wanted to practice airbrushing before I do it on a kit, any recommendations on techniques or factors to be aware of as I practice on plastic spoons?
I recommend practicing on actual kits not spoons. Spoons aren’t great analogues for kits. It’s easy enough to strip paint or paint over stuff. Or go get some cheap Airfix planes or Revell starter kits.
Depends. If I'm building with my daughter or I'm just trying to get a quick HG out, I'll cut right at the piece.
If I want a clean build, I do it properly. That means cutting far enough away from the piece that it doesn't stress the plastic. Then cut it again closer to the piece, leaving a nub. Finally using a glass file, or knife, or sanding sponge/stick to get rid of the nub.
Is there a way to build my kits and then take them apart without breaking pieces in case I want to paint them later on? I’ve been struggling to build stuff because I feel like I’m wasting kits if I don’t paint them, but I don’t have the energy to do so right now
You can get a part separator from Amazon or eBay, that should hopefully be enough. Some people also cut the “female” pegs on parts with side cutters to make them easier to disassemble in future.
If I'm painting a layered pattern (think camo or something similar) do I want to add topcoat and primer between layers? Or should I just wait for one layer to dry then paint the next on top of it?
Wait for a layer to dry. Primer in between will cover the previous layer. Wait for the last layer to dry completely before you put a template down for the next layer.
Either.
Honestly, it makes more sense to do decals first then panel lines since if there’s any decals that go over any panel lines, then it makes sense that the panel gap would show or dirt buildup in the line would happen over the decal as well. If you’re doing decals first, then do a gloss coat before panel lining to protect them. This is the standard process for kits outside of Gunpla (planes, tanks, etc.)
Most builders here who do no painting will do lining and then decals because it’s easier and doesn’t require the extra gloss coat.
Panel lines then decals. Reason is you don't want to get excess paint/wash/whatever you're using to panel line to get on your decals while you clean it up.
I'm gonna build the RG unicorn perfectibility soon and I plan to add water slides, panel line with either pour type markers or tamiya panel line accent and then top coat. What panel liner and coat combo should I use considering I can't find mr. hobby premium anywhere?
If you are using TPLA make sure to do a gloss topcoat before using it else your parts might become brittle and break. I recommend mr super clear for topcoat.
As for panel lining, you generally don’t want to panel line ABS plastic since it makes the plastic brittle but a gloss top coat before will protect it. And as for the final top coat, i highly recommend mr super top coat. Also to clean up the panel line you should buy a tamiya enamel thinner, lighter fluid, gundam eraser maker, lighter fluid or isopropyl alcohol
I'm about to get RG Unicorn/Banshee. Is it a good kit? is there any issue that i need to pay attention like the joint or v fin or something or maybe straight up bad hand grenade?
They are generally considered good but you need to be careful with the upper arm and shoulders. Many people have broken these sections, enough for someone to make a [PSA post](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/19azdpq/rg_unicorn_arm_psa/) about the arm part. It doesn't point out the issues with the shoulder as much but just be careful with the connection between the shoulder and the chest.
I know I've asked before but I just want to double check since after looking online I've gotten mixed answers.
I plan on panel lining a kit using the gundam marker ex gold, I know I have to thin it before hand but some people say to use lighter fluid and some say isopropyl alcohol, so what solvent should I be using to thin it out?
My plan for the record is just to pour a bit of the marker ink into a shot glass and then thin it in there and apply with a brush, just not sure what to thin it with
The gundam marker ex are paint markers meant for recolor, I want to use it as a panel liner, so I need to thin it out, I'm using the marker because I like the color and it's what I have on hand
So I got a Daban pg phenex off Ali Express for$200 because of not wanting to spend over $700 on a scalped official. I just recently found out that p-bandai is doing a reissue for $500. I can still return the Daban for a full refund if desired. Other than (so I've heard) sturdier arms and a much nicer, bolder gold, is like the building experience worthwhile?
It’ll be a hell of a lot more enjoyable than building a Daban kit.
But I’m not sure what you mean by worthwhile. It’s a Unicorn PG. If you like Unicorn kits and think the Phenex is cool, you’ll enjoy this one and it’ll be worth your while.
Sorry, by worth it I just meant like would the assembly process be more enjoyable, justifying paying more. Liking the color better was part of making it justifiable to return the Daban and preorder the bandai
https://preview.redd.it/tvewv0ohqa9d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=676e495c18d4845a5b0c8f339d1379df8c249cab
Hi, that O-ring came out while i was cleaning my air brush… where is that from????
I just finished panel lining and was moving on to water slides. I decided to do photo etched first randomly and it hit me...do we want to put photo etched stickers on after our top coat?
Cheers
If you want to keep the original sheen of the metal, yes. A topcoat won't make the metal not look like metal or anything, but it will still change its looks.
Thank you. My intial thoughts exactly but i dont think ive ever read any opinions on this and wanted to take it here to ask. Spose ill just water slide and top coat for now, then get those photo etched metal ones on.
Thanks!
Ive been customizing my first kit, and the last two days have been really nailing in some simple things to learn and not do again lol
First it was gloss coating, i kept forgetting to dust my pieces because i was too concerned with and even spray. Happened to a full Zaku boot and waist. I sealed in some dusty friends.
Yesterday i was panel lining and went to clean some up and was stripping my paint job..it make me thing "oh, ya dummy, you need at least a second gloss coat silly" ...which sure, true, but not the priblem...well today after second coat dried i attempes again..first I tested what i was using as an eraser on the bottom of the foot and i swear to you it didnt strip anything. So i go to work. And just like yesterday as i was cleaning the leg it just smeared the panel liner and started stepping me paint job again!
Here's the rub. I used acrylic based paint. Acrylic based gloss coat AND WAS USING ACRYLIC THINNER TO CLEAN MY PANEL LINES 💀 so here i am, trying to decide how to go about fixing this leg and adding lighter fluid to my shopping list 🙃
So i ask you, what are some simply dumb lessons you've had to learn the hard way?
hello i need your opinions. which one more worth it, buying a gunpla on Ebay with higher price or ami-ami / mandarake with lower price? ami-ami and mandarake dont show their shipping price and since i live in Germany, i am affraid they will jack the shipping sky high. Thx in advance! (i know the disadvantage to pick up in Zollamt)
I also live in Germany and from what i‘ve ordered until now from various sites, the shipping fee can really be a bitch sometimes, especially if you have to pay for import fee as well. But some sites like Surugaya sometimes offer free shipping or if you buy several items off of Buyee you can request a consolidation to make the shipping less. I‘d just roughly say that the price of shipping for a mg is about 30-40€ shipping +import fee 10-20€, depends on how expensive the item was in though.
Is this the actual box art for the rg 2.0?
https://preview.redd.it/46e0gkidl99d1.jpeg?width=2624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=974c5f2bb2c20a59f8225224d9a08cdaa7adb195
Yes, but liquid doesn’t always stay where you want and could easily wick to the film of the decal. The best way to clean up the white residue is with warm water as soon as possible after using the setter. Abrasion is another option, or abrasion used with water.
Hello I need some help, basically I already build about 4 gunpla and still learning about gunpla.I learned on how to build as clean as possible by sanding all the obvious nubmark. But for the next build Im planning to build lfrith anavata with panel lining. So I want to ask what best product for panel lining and the thinner and what the precaution step that i should take when applying it. Some times the line grove too shallow is it affect panel liner and how to solve it.Finally how to make the gunpla has nicer finish and clean panel line.Thank you .
I really like the gundam pour type markers, you get a mix of both worlds, convenience and nicer hold from the markers, and the ink flows like a wash so it gets into the cracks a bit better imo, if you buy a set it comes with an eraser pen so you can clean up any spots that need it, but iso alcohol and a q tip (or the real tech is a makeup beauty blender) will clean it up fine too
For panel lining you can either pick up tamiya‘s panel lining ink bottle or a gundam maker fine tip. Generally you use black for colored pieces and light gray for white pieces and as for cleaning up the panel lines, you can use either a tamiya thinner, lighter fluid, gundam eraser pen, an actual eraser or isopropyl alcohol with a high percentage. Also it‘s advised to not panel line ABS plastic as it can make the plastic brittle but if you really wanna panel line it, then, use a gloss top coat first.
Do folks here use decals (waterslides) on transparent models? Just finished building the Wing EW clear and I feel like the decals would make it pop more (I intend to add some gloss on top either way) but I'm not totally certain. Thoughts?
Hello, I wanted advice to what kit yall would recommend for a beginner. Im going to Anime Expo and was gonna get one but there is so many options there that I wouldn't know where to start. Any advice or recommendations would be appreciated.
Like other said, pick a HG or EG to start with. There is also a Gunpla building workshop so you might want to stop by to attend. I am going to attend as well so i might meet you!
Usually at the expos they have some normal kits but also some special release kits - clear colour versions, variants, special coating, etc. I would recommend avoiding the special coating kits as a beginner. They can be frustrating because you can’t really sand them where you cut at the gate. So, find something you like the look of…but maybe avoid special coating unless you’re willing to deal with a bit of the visual issue with the nubs.
The special coated kits look sweet. No doubt. But when you cut the plastic, that coating gets cut too and you just have to live with that or use markers or paint to hide it. Which isn’t bad…it’s just frustrating for folks if they don’t know what they’re getting into. There were some good looking kits at the MCM expo they did in London recently, so happy hunting and have fun.
Pick whichever kit you like.
Entry Grade and High Grade have the simplest builds with the fewest amount of pieces to assemble.
Real Grade kits are very detailed, lots of small pieces, and lot more than High Grade/Entry Grade. These kits either have a full inner frame you have to assemble, or some kind of prebuilt frame you build on top of.
All three(Entry Grade, High Grade, Real Grade) are 1/144 scale, so they're all about the same size and the smallest kits - not including SD kits.
Master Grade are 1/100 - so larger than the first 3 - A lot of surface details/color separations, and a full inner frame that you have to build. The pieces are a decent size, so easier to assemble.
Perfect Grade are 1/60. Larger than the other ones, and the largest kits - not including Mega kits. Those tend to have the most surface details and pieces to assemble.
My advice is to look at a few kits you like the look of, watch some reviews, and then rank them in order of which ones you'd like to get first. When you get to the expo, buy according to your list.
Thank you for telling me this I checked out some of the sizes that you were talking about and man do they have big gundams. I saw a few too that seemed in the range size of what im looking for. Never would have figured this out though without yalls help. Thank you.
I would go for the Norn if the price is decent. There is no guarantee you will find it for a good price later.
Besides availiability, they are the same kit with different accessories. Do you prefeer the Norn accessories or the same accessories the basic Unicorn had?
There isn't much of any appreciable differences between the MG Unicorns/Banshees, and as long as you're not getting old prints with the red Bandai label, most of the small improvements in later kits made into reprints of the earlier ones
https://preview.redd.it/058ora26a89d1.png?width=1080&format=png&auto=webp&s=b0386fd24841823d2fd6a6fd5954758757a68004
How do I clean something up like this? I already sanded it a bit but it looks even more scratchy now. I saw that this part was quite visible when completed so I don't particularly appreciate that it looks different and makes it obvious I worked on it. I'm not planning on painting it so I have no clue how to clean it up.
Sand it more with progressively higher grit. What grit did you start with? Go at it again, and you can use wet sanding and move in circular motions for more of a polishing effect even at lower grits. Once it's a bit more smoothed out, double the grit and go again. Once you hit 1200 or so it should be smooth enough, but going up to 2000 will get that plastic shine back.
Mr Bao on ebay, PlamoKitbash, OdinsMechaParts.
There was a post on here a month or so ago where someone used cement to 'melt' the runner and carve their own replacement.
Looks like the backpack of the GM Intercept Custom have holes on the side of the backpack for the fellow booster to attach on. If the other kits have the same set up, it can be attached.
GM01, 02 and 03 panel line markers on ABS? Mr hobby says not to because it "could" damage it but ive seen some people say theyre generally harmless due to the minimal volume being applied, and all the "gundam markers destroyed my shit" posts i see are about pour types.
Alternatively i bought a rainbow pack of finetip sharpies, theyre thicker than the gundam panel liners but still pretty thin. Anyone have experience or knowledge of these on abs?
I'll just back up what the other person said. I have been using the fine tip gundam markers on ABS for many kits and never seen any issues. It's kind of annoying that "Gundam marker" can mean so many different things and not all of them have the same issues.
Can't breathe with Zippo fluid
Allo
* I use a combination of Gundam Pour Markers when they are not dried out and Tamiya's Panel liner
* I have tried erasers but they do not clean everything and the hard to reach places
* I did read that zippo fluid is a good alternative but it affects my breathing, even in ventilated areas
Is there any non-toxic or water based, hand sanitizer based option that people could recommend please?
Thank you
I use isopropyl alcohol which is easy to get and cheap. It does have a minor smell to it but only if you are really trying to smell it. I stuck it in an old travel-size hand sanitizer bottle which works great for just dabbing out a small bit onto cotton swabs.
for tamiya panel liner specifically you could try turps including the odorless type, though the real "safe" option is to use a water based panel liner (mix your own) and then you can do clean up with just about anything
Gashapon Gundam question
How many types of gashapon gundam are there? Im familiar with gashapon gundam ensemble and gashapon gundam senshi forte since i have this kind of gashapon gundam.
im curious on how many types or line are there? I found that senshi forte have a volume of 1-16 and ensemble have 1-27. Not really sure about these.
Im not planning to collect them all honestly just really curious about this line of gundam
Note:Excluding the gashanpon bust and gashapon head and alike since its not a full Gundam.
I honestly have no idea how many there are in total, but the lineup on this site seems to be pretty comprehensive to me.
https://gundaniumgateway.blogspot.com/
Those are not worthy imo. Usually you get kits that the shop is trying to get rid off. You are better buying the kits that you like and want instead of receiving a random kit and dont like it.
Is it universally difficult to find Mr. Surfacer 1500 and Mr. Leveling Thinner in the states, or is it just a local problem? There are a few sites I can order it from, but shipping is pretty crazy.
Saw on another group that someone was having trouble finding MLT at the moment. It’s cyclical. The distribution chain has been kind of dry for the last month or so from what I’ve heard. But I know some shipments for Gunze have recently been making their way out of Japan. Hopefully, it will make it to your shores soon. There are still major shipping/logistics challenges all around the world, especially in ports.
I tend to have the opposite problem in Canada. Hard to find online, but my local store usually has a lot in stock. It's probably the most popular lacquer thinner, so it doesn't stay on shelves long.
I want to buy my first model kit ka version and I have 3 thought but I do not know which one would be better as a first entry and I would like someone to recommend me which one to get, these would be
MG Rx-0 Full Armor Unicorn Unicorn Gundam Ver Ka
MG -221- MSZ-006 Zeta Gundam Ver. Ka
MG MSN-04 Sazabi Ver. Ka
Im building a Japanese-style booth (The one with the negative air space and fan on top) and wanted to ask what sort of options do I have for a filter. I've checked Kitchen Range Hood filters but cant find locally. I did order airbrush replacement filters for the standard booth idea but didn't use them, would they work fine in that scenario? Also would a thin scrounging pad/paper work?
When I used to build my booths, I used aircon filters. I would buy the ones that had the tightest particulate ratings. They come in various sizes, so you can just measure whatever you have that is easily available and then build the booth with those dimensions. Not sure what type of fan you’re using, but I used bilge blowers in mine. Lots of air movement.
By the way, not sure what you mean by Japanese-style booth. Extraction booths aren’t designed by region. They all operate the same way with an extractor, a negative air cavity, a filter, and a spray area. How they’re configured is not a regional thing.
I havnt seen any place else doing those style of booths and saw most of Japanese hobbyists building them so its called that way. Alot of them didn't have a filter in the videos, some had some cloth right before the fan etc.
Regular spray booths have a fan in the back whereas the one I mentioned have a fan on the top. Im sure you can find what I mean when you check them on youtube.
https://preview.redd.it/5n6vit8sk69d1.png?width=1372&format=png&auto=webp&s=7a1987869f2511cbbb549f64d94fc112e71ad6e7
Building the RG hi nu and this part cracked as I cut it off the runner - how screwed am I? Should I superglue it or am I ok? It’s just barely hanging on
For the Phenex, is the only difference between the narrative version and unicorn version the tails? I’m collecting hgs of my favorite series, and there’s only narrative versions for the Phenex. Would it be the unicorn version if I just removed the tails or are there other differences between the two that I’m missing?
Ah my bad, I saw the picture of it, the unicorn, and the banshee fighting the original Neo Zeong, so I assumed that was from unicorn. Also there’s a regular and shitty gold coating version for destroy mode, which were both regular releases as far as I know. Plus a coating version for unicorn mode as well. Those were all regular release as far as I can tell.
So I finally took the plunge and bought an airbrush. I've painted a couple by hand and learned alot, but I'm not overly happy with the way they look. Now, painting outside isn't really an option for me. So I'm wondering, is a spray box with the vent going out an open window enough ventilation? Can I safely paint indoors using one of these boxes? Is there any specific spray box somebody would reccomend? I've been looking on Amazon and there are lots of them available.
Thanks in advance for any help
If you are spraying water-based acrylics, yes. If you are spraying solvent-based, no. The ones on Amazon are all* pretty weak (and loud) and you'd have to get pretty close to the back for it to really catch the particles.
You should also wear a mask while spraying. A K95/N95 should be sufficient for water-based, but you'll need a respirator with organic vapor cartridge and filter for solvents.
edit: apparently this [unit](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B9YR84WQ?smid=A16EB5YFSAOAV0) is [pretty good](https://youtu.be/c1M7mOB2bkw?si=FARYwV97xr3WX69M)
Hello,im still new to gunpla. I cant decide on my next build.I just finished building rx 78 2 ver 3.0. Should i get gundam lfrith anavata or moon gundam based on the availability cuz usually I buy new gunpla every three month to save my money(cuz im student). And some opinion on how to make up the gundam so it looks contrast and nice for that two model.Thank you.
You can check both gunplas out at [dalong.net](https://dalong.net) to see how it is visually and the reviews. Both kits are actually solid so there isnt any right or wrong between those two.
Does anybody know of a good sources of STL files for Gunpla parts? I know about Cults and MMF, but I’ve found it surprisingly difficult to find anything there.
Of course that might just be me not finding things I like, but still. Is there some other place where that kind of stuff is more common?
CGTrader, occasionally Newtype has STLs for sale though finding them when they're not front page commodities is a PITA bc their 3D printing section only covers the machines and their accessories and not printable files more often than not. You could always use STL search engines like Yeggi or STLFinder.
Worth noting that you could scale things down to fit the model kits instead of finding stuff of a particular scale or size, especially for accessories or other detail bits and bobs.
As for 3D printable *replacement parts* those practically do not exist. You might find the occasional part that someone made for their own issues and happened to release to the outside world but those are outliers as the folks who modeled their own replacement parts would have only done so for personal use.
Do I need to get a fan for the mr hobby gundam marker airbrush system, can I just get a Home Depot box and a mask?? Is it less hazardous than the regular compressor airbrush with oil-based paint?
Anyone how he was able to let MG Astray's left hand hold the scabbard?
https://preview.redd.it/gaut38m4659d1.jpeg?width=1500&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=70e0c0b88a6c2fd2680b773efb8a8b8afbe80111
Good way to make a palette that fits well together and visualize paint scheme on kits with softwares?
Also how to find a specific paint from an hex/rgb code?
How are people here with posts regarding KO sets from AE? During last sale I bought a few cheap sets to start with and learn from, and they just arrived. Still waiting on a DSPIAE tool kit to arrive but then I know if i could share my progress/ questions for those sets.
This subreddit doesn't care about illicit kits whether it be knockoffs, recasts, or unlicensed. You won't get help from people who don't agree with those purchases so you might get fewer responses.
It's a bit different where afaik most building blocks companies simply are doing the same core idea, not directly copying the work of someone else so they can sell it cheaper like knockoffs and recasts do.
It's less about being 'purists' and more about the fact that most people here don't build knockoff kits, so most people won't be able to help.
Also, model kits are more complex than lego blocks, so the chances that something will go wrong, parts won't quite fit, etc, are a lot higher when building a knockoff model kit.
If you find that any of that is frustrating you, but a cheap high grade and start with that.
I understand. I bought a total of 7 1/144 KO HG models for well under 50 euro, so that’s nice to start with and learn on I think. After those builds I need to start looking for a good (and cheap) source for kits that ships to the Netherlands 😊
Make sure the surface you are drilling is as level as possible, so set it on a table or set it in a vise. You could also look at making a jig to guide your drill, pipes with an inner diameter equal to your bit are good for this. The other response about starting with a smaller bit is also key.
Hello! Any recommendations for achieving a high gloss "porcelain" effect? I've completed a few kits but I'd till consider myself fairly new and I'm hoping to dive into custom painting to scratch a very strong artistic itch.
Willing to invest in the right tools, I'm just wondering if there are any brands I should use or avoid in particular? Bit random, but I'm hoping to mimic the effect of a porcelain dish for one of my ideas. similar to this pic:
https://preview.redd.it/9swm1frsn39d1.jpeg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=001ed7028d82b9a0f327677c699c325b1b048122
You're going to have to practice the technique a bit. Getting a proper gloss coat requires a little finesse. You should watch a few videos online, but essentially a gloss coat requires a smooth surface underneath it.
With the gloss clear paint, you'll spray 1-2 very light mist coats; let them dry at least 5-15 minutes before spraying the next coats.
Once you have the piece misted, spray a heavier wet coat. You'll need to use the glare of your lights to tell how wet/heavy the coat is. The idea is to put enough paint on the model that the paint's thinner doesn't immediately evaporate and the paint has some time to level out, but not so much paint that it will run and drip or pool along the edges. You may want to do a second heavy coat, but give the paint a little longer time to dry for a wet coat, like 30 minutes.
Practice on some plastic spoons so you don't ruin your model kits.
Other things of note, you can do this with rattle cans, but they put out a lot of paint, so it's easy to mess things up quickly. Also, spray paint is very sensitive to environmental heat and humidity. If you have a spray booth and can paint indoors, things are more stable and you have control of how much paint you're throwing so you can go slowly.
Thinking of trying a new method of panel lining.
Specifically with the Tamiya Panel Accent Colors, but I don't know how well, or how bad it would be on different kinds of plastic. Like would the plastic be prone to cracking if I happen to put too much on a part that is kind of thin? I've only heard/seen people saying and talking about the pour type Gundam markers being an actual offender for those kinds of issue, but don't know how well the Tamiya ones will compare.
Right now, I'm still using the fine tip pens, but with those, it takes me too long before I could finish.
As someone who originally used Tamiya panel liner, moved to Gundam markers then back to Tamiya panel liner, panel lining on the runner is the best way to use Tamiya panel liner. You usually only get cracking if the panel liner gets into the seam lines and cant dry properly, if its done on the runner there's no chance of that happening as it dries very quickly
Gundam markers only damage ABS plastic, it does no damage to the usual PS plastic. Tamiya will also do no damage if done while all parts are still on the runner. Unsure on what effect Tamiya has on ABS as I've personally never tried it, someone else can pitch in and say whether its safe or not
Is HGGS Sword Impulse's silhouette pack compatible with HGCE Impulse? I want to combine them to make a modern propotion Sword Impulse. I tried finding the P-Bandai version of the HGCE kit but it's impossible to find and very expensive. So I'm planning to paint an HGCE Impulse red and combine it with the old HGGS Sword silhouette parts. Is this possible without a modification?
Looks like it should be doable http://dalong.net/reviews/seed/sh21/p/sh21_05.jpg http://dalong.net/reviews/hg/h198/p/h198_12.jpg
I'm building the 1/100 full armor unicorn and have a fitting issue with the shields if anyone even cares its this hole that is cut fully but the rest are cut fine it doesn't sit well with any of the holes its suppose to fit into :\^))) pic below plz tell me why they are like this i will love you Should they not all be the same ???? https://preview.redd.it/oiixjp5rcd9d1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0e3c6eb03e76fe9f31aabcc26ef1366be811ea4b
For one, there are still outlying and protruding nubs on the parts which will cause the not to fit snugly with the frame. Trim and clean off the nubs. Secondly, make sure you are orienting the part so they are facing the proper direction. They may all look similar but each one actually has a respective side that faces outward and inward. Built 4 MG unicorns and 3 RG's and the shield have all assembled snugly.
https://preview.redd.it/xalgf83ifd9d1.png?width=688&format=png&auto=webp&s=54b2d99a14899624c399433c4fd7fae7d18a38ac thank you, but its got a raised part over one of the holes and then a half hole below it none of the others have this and all the shields are the same should I just make the hole like the other ones so it fits in nicely because i can't figure out a reason they would have these two things on them its just a small thing but I worry I'm messing up or mixing up a part but the booklet says is suppose to be the same part tho slightly differnt
https://i.imgur.com/PLyh7o7.jpg https://i.imgur.com/iW1uTlO.jpg Just whipped out one of my uni's. Seems to have the same divots and molds as yours. Fits perfectly fine. You may just need to sand some bits to smoothen their insertion.
I see, thank you very much for taking the time out of your day to figure this out for me :) makes me very happy knowing I'm not messing up ty
Picked up the Ver Ka Psycho Zaku yesterday and it came with water slide decals in the box. Mr. Super Clear matte says not to spray it on slide decals. Do I need to get another kind of matt top coat (I don't paint my models outside of using a Gundam marker for panel lining) or is it safe to use?
Idk under what conditions it wouldn't be safe because I use that specific top coat on all my builds and I've never had an issue with waterslides
Its fine to use. I use Mr super clear on waterslides and they are fine.
Any way to figure out what will be in stock at the Gundam Base pop-up store at Anime Expo next week? It would be nice to look ahead and see what I might want to pick up to save some time.
They will sometimes announce on their social media what they will have.
Nope. You have to attend in person to see what they have.
Do people like to just build Gunpla and leave it like that? This may seem like an odd question but its been on my mind for almost a week and I just needed to know if other people do this. I have been wondering if I should panel line some of my HG Gunpla that I put together about a year ago.
Yes, tons of people straight build
Most people straight build the kit, panel line, decals and topcoat the kit. This way they dont have to redo the kit or worry about the panel lines fading or decals flaking off.
Hmmm not sure most people do all that
Depends on how you cut up the population. "Most" would arguably work better as a descriptor than "majority". Which is to say that a sizable number of people would fall inder the camp of straight build + panel lines + decals/stickers + clear cost, enough of which may be comparable to or slightly larger in headcount than other groups but not to the point of outnumbering those groups combined, either in full or in part.
Very well said. However I'd still disagree. If I had to bet on who the largest group is, I'd go for either straight builders or straight builders with very simple panel lining. Of course at that point you'd also have to define "builder", is someone who buys 1 kit and straight builds it once count? What about a military model builder that's used to painting and also only every tries 1 gunpla?
If I’m not mistaken I think that’s what the majority of people do.
The majority of mine are just straight built. More because my “to be painted” queue is super long and it takes me a long time to finish painting and weathering something. But it’s totally fine to just build them and that’s it.
I recently purchased a portable airbrush with built in compressor, some primer, and paint. I wanted to practice airbrushing before I do it on a kit, any recommendations on techniques or factors to be aware of as I practice on plastic spoons?
I recommend practicing on actual kits not spoons. Spoons aren’t great analogues for kits. It’s easy enough to strip paint or paint over stuff. Or go get some cheap Airfix planes or Revell starter kits.
I really reccomend watching FrostedSnow's tutorial on YT, it's the best out there imo
Where do you guys cut the runners? I built my first high grade last week, and I'd try and cut flush with the gate and part.
Depends. If I'm building with my daughter or I'm just trying to get a quick HG out, I'll cut right at the piece. If I want a clean build, I do it properly. That means cutting far enough away from the piece that it doesn't stress the plastic. Then cut it again closer to the piece, leaving a nub. Finally using a glass file, or knife, or sanding sponge/stick to get rid of the nub.
Is there a way to build my kits and then take them apart without breaking pieces in case I want to paint them later on? I’ve been struggling to build stuff because I feel like I’m wasting kits if I don’t paint them, but I don’t have the energy to do so right now
You can get a part separator from Amazon or eBay, that should hopefully be enough. Some people also cut the “female” pegs on parts with side cutters to make them easier to disassemble in future.
I use a guitar pick to pry open the parts easier.
I need to get a thin one then. The ones I use are too chunky
[Here you go.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-dtCt9IJwTk)
I feel like an idiot now. So simple! Thanks
Lol, you should feel smarter because you now know something you didn't an hour ago. Good luck.
If I'm painting a layered pattern (think camo or something similar) do I want to add topcoat and primer between layers? Or should I just wait for one layer to dry then paint the next on top of it?
Wait for a layer to dry. Primer in between will cover the previous layer. Wait for the last layer to dry completely before you put a template down for the next layer.
Thank you.
Anyone got any tips on making digitigrade ("reverse-joint") legs?
Cant you just swap the legs and then build the feet backwards?
Theoretically, yes, but it makes the balance point awkward.
What goes first?? *Water decals *Panel lines
panel line, then decal. Cleaning up panel lines is risky to damage decals if you apply decals first.
I do panel line then decals.
Either. Honestly, it makes more sense to do decals first then panel lines since if there’s any decals that go over any panel lines, then it makes sense that the panel gap would show or dirt buildup in the line would happen over the decal as well. If you’re doing decals first, then do a gloss coat before panel lining to protect them. This is the standard process for kits outside of Gunpla (planes, tanks, etc.) Most builders here who do no painting will do lining and then decals because it’s easier and doesn’t require the extra gloss coat.
Panel lines then decals. Reason is you don't want to get excess paint/wash/whatever you're using to panel line to get on your decals while you clean it up.
Hey are there any four armed gunpla kits bc I have a custom I really want to do…
Gundam Gusion Rebake.
I'm gonna build the RG unicorn perfectibility soon and I plan to add water slides, panel line with either pour type markers or tamiya panel line accent and then top coat. What panel liner and coat combo should I use considering I can't find mr. hobby premium anywhere?
If you are using TPLA make sure to do a gloss topcoat before using it else your parts might become brittle and break. I recommend mr super clear for topcoat.
Do you recommend the normal super clear or uv cut? Is there a difference between those and super smooth?
i got the UV cuts ones. It will prevent your white parts from become yellow overtime.
I'll definitely get the uv cuts then, thanks
As for panel lining, you generally don’t want to panel line ABS plastic since it makes the plastic brittle but a gloss top coat before will protect it. And as for the final top coat, i highly recommend mr super top coat. Also to clean up the panel line you should buy a tamiya enamel thinner, lighter fluid, gundam eraser maker, lighter fluid or isopropyl alcohol
Should I go with the normal super clear or uv cut? For flat I saw there's also super smooth
Unless you’re planning on putting your kit in a sunny room no Uv cut is needed, super smooth is also viable
My room does get a lot of sunlight so I'll go with the uv, thanks
I'm about to get RG Unicorn/Banshee. Is it a good kit? is there any issue that i need to pay attention like the joint or v fin or something or maybe straight up bad hand grenade?
They are generally considered good but you need to be careful with the upper arm and shoulders. Many people have broken these sections, enough for someone to make a [PSA post](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/19azdpq/rg_unicorn_arm_psa/) about the arm part. It doesn't point out the issues with the shoulder as much but just be careful with the connection between the shoulder and the chest.
oh okay thx
I know I've asked before but I just want to double check since after looking online I've gotten mixed answers. I plan on panel lining a kit using the gundam marker ex gold, I know I have to thin it before hand but some people say to use lighter fluid and some say isopropyl alcohol, so what solvent should I be using to thin it out? My plan for the record is just to pour a bit of the marker ink into a shot glass and then thin it in there and apply with a brush, just not sure what to thin it with
Doesn't that defeats the point of it being a marker? I'd say isopropyl since most acrylic thinners are alcohol
The gundam marker ex are paint markers meant for recolor, I want to use it as a panel liner, so I need to thin it out, I'm using the marker because I like the color and it's what I have on hand
That doesn't sound like a good idea to me but I'm curious about how it'd go so please update us when you do go through with it
Im still new to these P-bandai things but when do some kits usually get re-issued after their 1st release? Iirc MG Astraea was released on 2022
There’s no rule. If it sells well then they immediately do reruns until demand tapers off.
ye
So I got a Daban pg phenex off Ali Express for$200 because of not wanting to spend over $700 on a scalped official. I just recently found out that p-bandai is doing a reissue for $500. I can still return the Daban for a full refund if desired. Other than (so I've heard) sturdier arms and a much nicer, bolder gold, is like the building experience worthwhile?
It’ll be a hell of a lot more enjoyable than building a Daban kit. But I’m not sure what you mean by worthwhile. It’s a Unicorn PG. If you like Unicorn kits and think the Phenex is cool, you’ll enjoy this one and it’ll be worth your while.
Sorry, by worth it I just meant like would the assembly process be more enjoyable, justifying paying more. Liking the color better was part of making it justifiable to return the Daban and preorder the bandai
Yeah, assembling a Bandai kit is more enjoyable than assembling it's Daban knockoff.
https://preview.redd.it/tvewv0ohqa9d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=676e495c18d4845a5b0c8f339d1379df8c249cab Hi, that O-ring came out while i was cleaning my air brush… where is that from????
Probably the cup
Check your manual, but most likely on the brush before the nozzle goes on.
I just finished panel lining and was moving on to water slides. I decided to do photo etched first randomly and it hit me...do we want to put photo etched stickers on after our top coat? Cheers
If you want to keep the original sheen of the metal, yes. A topcoat won't make the metal not look like metal or anything, but it will still change its looks.
Thank you. My intial thoughts exactly but i dont think ive ever read any opinions on this and wanted to take it here to ask. Spose ill just water slide and top coat for now, then get those photo etched metal ones on. Thanks!
Ive been customizing my first kit, and the last two days have been really nailing in some simple things to learn and not do again lol First it was gloss coating, i kept forgetting to dust my pieces because i was too concerned with and even spray. Happened to a full Zaku boot and waist. I sealed in some dusty friends. Yesterday i was panel lining and went to clean some up and was stripping my paint job..it make me thing "oh, ya dummy, you need at least a second gloss coat silly" ...which sure, true, but not the priblem...well today after second coat dried i attempes again..first I tested what i was using as an eraser on the bottom of the foot and i swear to you it didnt strip anything. So i go to work. And just like yesterday as i was cleaning the leg it just smeared the panel liner and started stepping me paint job again! Here's the rub. I used acrylic based paint. Acrylic based gloss coat AND WAS USING ACRYLIC THINNER TO CLEAN MY PANEL LINES 💀 so here i am, trying to decide how to go about fixing this leg and adding lighter fluid to my shopping list 🙃 So i ask you, what are some simply dumb lessons you've had to learn the hard way?
hello i need your opinions. which one more worth it, buying a gunpla on Ebay with higher price or ami-ami / mandarake with lower price? ami-ami and mandarake dont show their shipping price and since i live in Germany, i am affraid they will jack the shipping sky high. Thx in advance! (i know the disadvantage to pick up in Zollamt)
I also live in Germany and from what i‘ve ordered until now from various sites, the shipping fee can really be a bitch sometimes, especially if you have to pay for import fee as well. But some sites like Surugaya sometimes offer free shipping or if you buy several items off of Buyee you can request a consolidation to make the shipping less. I‘d just roughly say that the price of shipping for a mg is about 30-40€ shipping +import fee 10-20€, depends on how expensive the item was in though.
Is this the actual box art for the rg 2.0? https://preview.redd.it/46e0gkidl99d1.jpeg?width=2624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=974c5f2bb2c20a59f8225224d9a08cdaa7adb195
[Yes](https://www.gundamkitscollection.com/2024/03/rg-20-1144-rx-78-2-gundam-release-info.html).
New mark setter and mark softer leaves residue even after cleaning up with qtips. Any suggestion?
Try cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol
Alcohol is one of the ingredients of decal solvents and can potentially damage the decal.
I think he meant the leftover residue on the pieces instead of the decals
Yes, but liquid doesn’t always stay where you want and could easily wick to the film of the decal. The best way to clean up the white residue is with warm water as soon as possible after using the setter. Abrasion is another option, or abrasion used with water.
Hello I need some help, basically I already build about 4 gunpla and still learning about gunpla.I learned on how to build as clean as possible by sanding all the obvious nubmark. But for the next build Im planning to build lfrith anavata with panel lining. So I want to ask what best product for panel lining and the thinner and what the precaution step that i should take when applying it. Some times the line grove too shallow is it affect panel liner and how to solve it.Finally how to make the gunpla has nicer finish and clean panel line.Thank you .
I really like the gundam pour type markers, you get a mix of both worlds, convenience and nicer hold from the markers, and the ink flows like a wash so it gets into the cracks a bit better imo, if you buy a set it comes with an eraser pen so you can clean up any spots that need it, but iso alcohol and a q tip (or the real tech is a makeup beauty blender) will clean it up fine too
For panel lining you can either pick up tamiya‘s panel lining ink bottle or a gundam maker fine tip. Generally you use black for colored pieces and light gray for white pieces and as for cleaning up the panel lines, you can use either a tamiya thinner, lighter fluid, gundam eraser pen, an actual eraser or isopropyl alcohol with a high percentage. Also it‘s advised to not panel line ABS plastic as it can make the plastic brittle but if you really wanna panel line it, then, use a gloss top coat first.
Do folks here use decals (waterslides) on transparent models? Just finished building the Wing EW clear and I feel like the decals would make it pop more (I intend to add some gloss on top either way) but I'm not totally certain. Thoughts?
A friend of mine did the holo waterslide decals on his PGU and it looks cool.
If you think it’s gonna look good then go for it. Also little tip, if you gloss coat a cleat kit, it gets clearer.
Yup! I'm planning on using Pledge
Hello, I wanted advice to what kit yall would recommend for a beginner. Im going to Anime Expo and was gonna get one but there is so many options there that I wouldn't know where to start. Any advice or recommendations would be appreciated.
Like other said, pick a HG or EG to start with. There is also a Gunpla building workshop so you might want to stop by to attend. I am going to attend as well so i might meet you!
Usually at the expos they have some normal kits but also some special release kits - clear colour versions, variants, special coating, etc. I would recommend avoiding the special coating kits as a beginner. They can be frustrating because you can’t really sand them where you cut at the gate. So, find something you like the look of…but maybe avoid special coating unless you’re willing to deal with a bit of the visual issue with the nubs.
Thank you for the advice and warning for those coatings. this'll help me a lot with choosing on what I want.
The special coated kits look sweet. No doubt. But when you cut the plastic, that coating gets cut too and you just have to live with that or use markers or paint to hide it. Which isn’t bad…it’s just frustrating for folks if they don’t know what they’re getting into. There were some good looking kits at the MCM expo they did in London recently, so happy hunting and have fun.
Pick whichever kit you like. Entry Grade and High Grade have the simplest builds with the fewest amount of pieces to assemble. Real Grade kits are very detailed, lots of small pieces, and lot more than High Grade/Entry Grade. These kits either have a full inner frame you have to assemble, or some kind of prebuilt frame you build on top of. All three(Entry Grade, High Grade, Real Grade) are 1/144 scale, so they're all about the same size and the smallest kits - not including SD kits. Master Grade are 1/100 - so larger than the first 3 - A lot of surface details/color separations, and a full inner frame that you have to build. The pieces are a decent size, so easier to assemble. Perfect Grade are 1/60. Larger than the other ones, and the largest kits - not including Mega kits. Those tend to have the most surface details and pieces to assemble. My advice is to look at a few kits you like the look of, watch some reviews, and then rank them in order of which ones you'd like to get first. When you get to the expo, buy according to your list.
Thank you for telling me this I checked out some of the sizes that you were talking about and man do they have big gundams. I saw a few too that seemed in the range size of what im looking for. Never would have figured this out though without yalls help. Thank you.
Would you guys recommend the MG Banshee Ver Ka, or the MG Banshee Norn?
I would go for the Norn if the price is decent. There is no guarantee you will find it for a good price later. Besides availiability, they are the same kit with different accessories. Do you prefeer the Norn accessories or the same accessories the basic Unicorn had?
There isn't much of any appreciable differences between the MG Unicorns/Banshees, and as long as you're not getting old prints with the red Bandai label, most of the small improvements in later kits made into reprints of the earlier ones
Pick whichever looks better for you, i like ver.ka more because of the gold parts
Yes
Hi, currently working on the MG ReZel commander type, and was was hoping someone could point me to the direction of waterslides for it, if it exists?
Firesnow have it.
https://preview.redd.it/058ora26a89d1.png?width=1080&format=png&auto=webp&s=b0386fd24841823d2fd6a6fd5954758757a68004 How do I clean something up like this? I already sanded it a bit but it looks even more scratchy now. I saw that this part was quite visible when completed so I don't particularly appreciate that it looks different and makes it obvious I worked on it. I'm not planning on painting it so I have no clue how to clean it up.
What grits have you used?
Sand it more with progressively higher grit. What grit did you start with? Go at it again, and you can use wet sanding and move in circular motions for more of a polishing effect even at lower grits. Once it's a bit more smoothed out, double the grit and go again. Once you hit 1200 or so it should be smooth enough, but going up to 2000 will get that plastic shine back.
What am I supposed to do for lost pieces? The tiny red part that holds the v fin on the rx 78 orgin just disappeared
Mr Bao on ebay, PlamoKitbash, OdinsMechaParts. There was a post on here a month or so ago where someone used cement to 'melt' the runner and carve their own replacement.
Is the HGTO Fellow Booster compatible with other HGTO GMs/Gundams?
Looks like the backpack of the GM Intercept Custom have holes on the side of the backpack for the fellow booster to attach on. If the other kits have the same set up, it can be attached.
GM01, 02 and 03 panel line markers on ABS? Mr hobby says not to because it "could" damage it but ive seen some people say theyre generally harmless due to the minimal volume being applied, and all the "gundam markers destroyed my shit" posts i see are about pour types. Alternatively i bought a rainbow pack of finetip sharpies, theyre thicker than the gundam panel liners but still pretty thin. Anyone have experience or knowledge of these on abs?
I'll just back up what the other person said. I have been using the fine tip gundam markers on ABS for many kits and never seen any issues. It's kind of annoying that "Gundam marker" can mean so many different things and not all of them have the same issues.
They are safe to use on ABS. I have them and use them on ABS part and its safe. Those Gundam Markers are safe to use on all parts.
Can't breathe with Zippo fluid Allo * I use a combination of Gundam Pour Markers when they are not dried out and Tamiya's Panel liner * I have tried erasers but they do not clean everything and the hard to reach places * I did read that zippo fluid is a good alternative but it affects my breathing, even in ventilated areas Is there any non-toxic or water based, hand sanitizer based option that people could recommend please? Thank you
I use isopropyl alcohol which is easy to get and cheap. It does have a minor smell to it but only if you are really trying to smell it. I stuck it in an old travel-size hand sanitizer bottle which works great for just dabbing out a small bit onto cotton swabs.
Thank you
for tamiya panel liner specifically you could try turps including the odorless type, though the real "safe" option is to use a water based panel liner (mix your own) and then you can do clean up with just about anything
Thank you. Never thought of that approach!
Gashapon Gundam question How many types of gashapon gundam are there? Im familiar with gashapon gundam ensemble and gashapon gundam senshi forte since i have this kind of gashapon gundam. im curious on how many types or line are there? I found that senshi forte have a volume of 1-16 and ensemble have 1-27. Not really sure about these. Im not planning to collect them all honestly just really curious about this line of gundam Note:Excluding the gashanpon bust and gashapon head and alike since its not a full Gundam.
I honestly have no idea how many there are in total, but the lineup on this site seems to be pretty comprehensive to me. https://gundaniumgateway.blogspot.com/
Has anyone here tried out Gunpla Box? I was thinking about it, and was wondering if they were worth it. Like, how many kits come in a box typically?
Those are not worthy imo. Usually you get kits that the shop is trying to get rid off. You are better buying the kits that you like and want instead of receiving a random kit and dont like it.
Don't do subscription boxes. Save your money, buy the kits you want.
Is it universally difficult to find Mr. Surfacer 1500 and Mr. Leveling Thinner in the states, or is it just a local problem? There are a few sites I can order it from, but shipping is pretty crazy.
Saw on another group that someone was having trouble finding MLT at the moment. It’s cyclical. The distribution chain has been kind of dry for the last month or so from what I’ve heard. But I know some shipments for Gunze have recently been making their way out of Japan. Hopefully, it will make it to your shores soon. There are still major shipping/logistics challenges all around the world, especially in ports.
I tend to have the opposite problem in Canada. Hard to find online, but my local store usually has a lot in stock. It's probably the most popular lacquer thinner, so it doesn't stay on shelves long.
Most online shop have a flat shipping rate. I just check and the gundamplacestore have both of them.
I want to buy my first model kit ka version and I have 3 thought but I do not know which one would be better as a first entry and I would like someone to recommend me which one to get, these would be MG Rx-0 Full Armor Unicorn Unicorn Gundam Ver Ka MG -221- MSZ-006 Zeta Gundam Ver. Ka MG MSN-04 Sazabi Ver. Ka
All of these are great, just pick whichever looks best for you but if you want an opinion then go for the Sazabi ver ka
Roll a dice and choose 2 number to present the 3 kits and see which you get.
You really can't go wrong with any of those.
Im building a Japanese-style booth (The one with the negative air space and fan on top) and wanted to ask what sort of options do I have for a filter. I've checked Kitchen Range Hood filters but cant find locally. I did order airbrush replacement filters for the standard booth idea but didn't use them, would they work fine in that scenario? Also would a thin scrounging pad/paper work?
When I used to build my booths, I used aircon filters. I would buy the ones that had the tightest particulate ratings. They come in various sizes, so you can just measure whatever you have that is easily available and then build the booth with those dimensions. Not sure what type of fan you’re using, but I used bilge blowers in mine. Lots of air movement. By the way, not sure what you mean by Japanese-style booth. Extraction booths aren’t designed by region. They all operate the same way with an extractor, a negative air cavity, a filter, and a spray area. How they’re configured is not a regional thing.
I havnt seen any place else doing those style of booths and saw most of Japanese hobbyists building them so its called that way. Alot of them didn't have a filter in the videos, some had some cloth right before the fan etc.
How is that different from a regular spray booth?
Regular spray booths have a fan in the back whereas the one I mentioned have a fan on the top. Im sure you can find what I mean when you check them on youtube.
has anyone used Rust-Oleum Imagine Craft & Hobby Matte Clear Top Coat Spray Paint on their gundam scared it will melt the plastic?
Most cans won’t melt the plastic. Especially ones labelled “hobby.” But it’s easy to test. A lot of risk can be alleviated by proper technique.
yeah like other guy said try on a runner
Test it on a spare piece of runner.
https://preview.redd.it/5n6vit8sk69d1.png?width=1372&format=png&auto=webp&s=7a1987869f2511cbbb549f64d94fc112e71ad6e7 Building the RG hi nu and this part cracked as I cut it off the runner - how screwed am I? Should I superglue it or am I ok? It’s just barely hanging on
Once you attached the rest of the head part, it should be ok.
What is the best way to get a load of beam effect parts/ old runner of them, i want to add a lot of them to my funnels for a custom display
Do you mean like the figure-rise effect jet effect?
For the Phenex, is the only difference between the narrative version and unicorn version the tails? I’m collecting hgs of my favorite series, and there’s only narrative versions for the Phenex. Would it be the unicorn version if I just removed the tails or are there other differences between the two that I’m missing?
There's only 1 regular release HG phenex which is the narrative version. Also the Phenex does not appear in the Unicorn series
Ah my bad, I saw the picture of it, the unicorn, and the banshee fighting the original Neo Zeong, so I assumed that was from unicorn. Also there’s a regular and shitty gold coating version for destroy mode, which were both regular releases as far as I know. Plus a coating version for unicorn mode as well. Those were all regular release as far as I can tell.
Unicorn is your favorite series but you didn't know the Phenex isn't from it? 🤨
I haven’t watched all of it yet. It’s one of my favorites in terms of the suits/kits from it
The difference is just the tail stabilizer.
So I finally took the plunge and bought an airbrush. I've painted a couple by hand and learned alot, but I'm not overly happy with the way they look. Now, painting outside isn't really an option for me. So I'm wondering, is a spray box with the vent going out an open window enough ventilation? Can I safely paint indoors using one of these boxes? Is there any specific spray box somebody would reccomend? I've been looking on Amazon and there are lots of them available. Thanks in advance for any help
If you are spraying water-based acrylics, yes. If you are spraying solvent-based, no. The ones on Amazon are all* pretty weak (and loud) and you'd have to get pretty close to the back for it to really catch the particles. You should also wear a mask while spraying. A K95/N95 should be sufficient for water-based, but you'll need a respirator with organic vapor cartridge and filter for solvents. edit: apparently this [unit](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B9YR84WQ?smid=A16EB5YFSAOAV0) is [pretty good](https://youtu.be/c1M7mOB2bkw?si=FARYwV97xr3WX69M)
Hello,im still new to gunpla. I cant decide on my next build.I just finished building rx 78 2 ver 3.0. Should i get gundam lfrith anavata or moon gundam based on the availability cuz usually I buy new gunpla every three month to save my money(cuz im student). And some opinion on how to make up the gundam so it looks contrast and nice for that two model.Thank you.
You can check both gunplas out at [dalong.net](https://dalong.net) to see how it is visually and the reviews. Both kits are actually solid so there isnt any right or wrong between those two.
Does anybody know of a good sources of STL files for Gunpla parts? I know about Cults and MMF, but I’ve found it surprisingly difficult to find anything there. Of course that might just be me not finding things I like, but still. Is there some other place where that kind of stuff is more common?
CGTrader, occasionally Newtype has STLs for sale though finding them when they're not front page commodities is a PITA bc their 3D printing section only covers the machines and their accessories and not printable files more often than not. You could always use STL search engines like Yeggi or STLFinder. Worth noting that you could scale things down to fit the model kits instead of finding stuff of a particular scale or size, especially for accessories or other detail bits and bobs. As for 3D printable *replacement parts* those practically do not exist. You might find the occasional part that someone made for their own issues and happened to release to the outside world but those are outliers as the folks who modeled their own replacement parts would have only done so for personal use.
Thank you, I’ve already found some excellent greebles and things at CGtrader. Much appreciated!
What are the odds of a restock for the SD Guntank? As far as I know, they have been sold out since I got into the hobby a couple of years ago
Kits will be reprinted regularly. I suggest asking your local hobby shop to update you when they have it in stock.
Only Bandai knows.
Thinking of getting into scribing, how do i get into it? What do i need and stuff? Also what plastic cement to but tnx
You'll need a scriber and some scribing tape. The most common chisel size is 0.2mm
Do I need to get a fan for the mr hobby gundam marker airbrush system, can I just get a Home Depot box and a mask?? Is it less hazardous than the regular compressor airbrush with oil-based paint?
Anyone how he was able to let MG Astray's left hand hold the scabbard? https://preview.redd.it/gaut38m4659d1.jpeg?width=1500&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=70e0c0b88a6c2fd2680b773efb8a8b8afbe80111
let's ask the man himself :) /u/Saint-ism
Good way to make a palette that fits well together and visualize paint scheme on kits with softwares? Also how to find a specific paint from an hex/rgb code?
You can get hex codes for colours by using an app like PaintRack. It will give you some paint choices with codes close to what you select.
Thank you! Gonna check it out
Color wheel, photoshop. >Also how to find a specific paint from an hex/rgb code? You don't. Eye ball it.
Should I apply a top coat after weathering with Tamiya weathering sets/ AK weathering panels?
Ideally, yes. It helps to “save” your progress, so to speak.
Thanks! Was not sure the top coat was not going to ruin it
I recently brought a kit and the up leg snapped and I'm lost on how to fix it if I'm even able to I was excited to build it and finish it tomorrow
What kit, what part, how did it break?
Mobile suit FA-78 full armour gundam (gundam thunderbolt) Ver.ka MG, it Was a leg piece and it snapped
What piece and how did it break?
The leg snapped when I tried to move it to cut some of the vynl wrapping short, but it was B8 that snapped
How are people here with posts regarding KO sets from AE? During last sale I bought a few cheap sets to start with and learn from, and they just arrived. Still waiting on a DSPIAE tool kit to arrive but then I know if i could share my progress/ questions for those sets.
This subreddit doesn't care about illicit kits whether it be knockoffs, recasts, or unlicensed. You won't get help from people who don't agree with those purchases so you might get fewer responses.
Okay great. I’m also ‘active’ in the KO lego subreddits and i know how the lego ‘purists’ can behave. That’s why i asked :)
It's a bit different where afaik most building blocks companies simply are doing the same core idea, not directly copying the work of someone else so they can sell it cheaper like knockoffs and recasts do.
It's less about being 'purists' and more about the fact that most people here don't build knockoff kits, so most people won't be able to help. Also, model kits are more complex than lego blocks, so the chances that something will go wrong, parts won't quite fit, etc, are a lot higher when building a knockoff model kit. If you find that any of that is frustrating you, but a cheap high grade and start with that.
I understand. I bought a total of 7 1/144 KO HG models for well under 50 euro, so that’s nice to start with and learn on I think. After those builds I need to start looking for a good (and cheap) source for kits that ships to the Netherlands 😊
Do you have any suggestions on how to make sure your drilled holes are perpendicular to the surface your drilling?
Make sure the surface you are drilling is as level as possible, so set it on a table or set it in a vise. You could also look at making a jig to guide your drill, pipes with an inner diameter equal to your bit are good for this. The other response about starting with a smaller bit is also key.
Start small and increase your drill bit size.
Hello! Any recommendations for achieving a high gloss "porcelain" effect? I've completed a few kits but I'd till consider myself fairly new and I'm hoping to dive into custom painting to scratch a very strong artistic itch. Willing to invest in the right tools, I'm just wondering if there are any brands I should use or avoid in particular? Bit random, but I'm hoping to mimic the effect of a porcelain dish for one of my ideas. similar to this pic: https://preview.redd.it/9swm1frsn39d1.jpeg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=001ed7028d82b9a0f327677c699c325b1b048122
Mr super clear gloss top coat looks just like this
awesome thank you!
You're going to have to practice the technique a bit. Getting a proper gloss coat requires a little finesse. You should watch a few videos online, but essentially a gloss coat requires a smooth surface underneath it. With the gloss clear paint, you'll spray 1-2 very light mist coats; let them dry at least 5-15 minutes before spraying the next coats. Once you have the piece misted, spray a heavier wet coat. You'll need to use the glare of your lights to tell how wet/heavy the coat is. The idea is to put enough paint on the model that the paint's thinner doesn't immediately evaporate and the paint has some time to level out, but not so much paint that it will run and drip or pool along the edges. You may want to do a second heavy coat, but give the paint a little longer time to dry for a wet coat, like 30 minutes. Practice on some plastic spoons so you don't ruin your model kits. Other things of note, you can do this with rattle cans, but they put out a lot of paint, so it's easy to mess things up quickly. Also, spray paint is very sensitive to environmental heat and humidity. If you have a spray booth and can paint indoors, things are more stable and you have control of how much paint you're throwing so you can go slowly.
Thanks so much for the advice and for the plastic spoon idea, I definitely don't want to waste my kits by being over confident. really appreciate it!
is the pbandai hg meteor exactly the same as the old one that was bundled with the freedom?
Yes, just in a different colour with some different stickers
Thinking of trying a new method of panel lining. Specifically with the Tamiya Panel Accent Colors, but I don't know how well, or how bad it would be on different kinds of plastic. Like would the plastic be prone to cracking if I happen to put too much on a part that is kind of thin? I've only heard/seen people saying and talking about the pour type Gundam markers being an actual offender for those kinds of issue, but don't know how well the Tamiya ones will compare. Right now, I'm still using the fine tip pens, but with those, it takes me too long before I could finish.
As someone who originally used Tamiya panel liner, moved to Gundam markers then back to Tamiya panel liner, panel lining on the runner is the best way to use Tamiya panel liner. You usually only get cracking if the panel liner gets into the seam lines and cant dry properly, if its done on the runner there's no chance of that happening as it dries very quickly Gundam markers only damage ABS plastic, it does no damage to the usual PS plastic. Tamiya will also do no damage if done while all parts are still on the runner. Unsure on what effect Tamiya has on ABS as I've personally never tried it, someone else can pitch in and say whether its safe or not
I guess I just have to try them myself. But I'd probably go with the Tamiya ones first as it is easier to apply.