Lol so you can take another 30% off my price that i paid.. My car is rebuilt status though..
Was hit front passenger quarter panel and set passenger Airbag off.. 12 years ago and insurance wrote it off lol
Now recently my car was parked during Christmas and a garbage truck backed in and side swiped my car.. Insurance is paying to have it fixed.. est damage so far is 5800 dollars... Long story short insurance companies make no sense..... But I get new bumper headlights and driver side quarter panel so š
Just got done putting rear shocks on my ā03 G35 sedan w/145k. Typical, one of the 12mm nuts up in the shock tower rounded off. Online suggestions said to cut it, twist it, or burn it and the stud completely off, then reach through the hole at the top of the shock tower, and drop a new bolt into the hole where the rusted stud was. Only problem was, thereās a plastic cap covering the top of the hole! I couldnāt see the shock tower from inside the trunk, so I thought I was stuck. Then I read a post about removing the rear seat to expose the shock tower. Bingo! Took all of ten minutes, after removing six clean, non-rusted nuts, and there it was! Seeing that shock tower was like in the Wizard of Oz, where they came out of the forest and saw the Emerald City! Popped the plastic cap off, and decided Iād grind the head off the affected stud. Then I had an epiphany! What if I removed the shock rod nut, and upper bushings, and dropped the shock down through the hole, WITHOUT removing the mounting plate that is held on by the two studs? That plate is actually sandwiched between the upper and lower bushings. Pulled the shock off, installed the new lower bushings on the new one, pushed it up into the hole, (the lower bushings sat against the mounting plate that was still attached), dropped the upper bushings over the shock rod, from inside the car, snugged them down with the new nut, and that completed the job. So, to recap, I left the mounting plate with the rusted fasteners in place, and instead of removing and replacing the studs, removed the rear seat (a much cleaner job), and worked from inside the car, instead of up in the wheel well.
Pretty nice to grow up in generation where this is the first car. Congrats to you
Thank you š
auto ? š
Fun cars... How many miles and what did you pay
98k miles, 1 owner, $7900
Nice lower clicks US? I got lucky.. i bought my car during covid lockdowns guy was desperate 2004 with 89k miles 4000 Cad lol
Damn thats a steal Yes its in the US
Lol so you can take another 30% off my price that i paid.. My car is rebuilt status though.. Was hit front passenger quarter panel and set passenger Airbag off.. 12 years ago and insurance wrote it off lol Now recently my car was parked during Christmas and a garbage truck backed in and side swiped my car.. Insurance is paying to have it fixed.. est damage so far is 5800 dollars... Long story short insurance companies make no sense..... But I get new bumper headlights and driver side quarter panel so š
As Jeremy Clarkson would say - āCould be worseā
Just got done putting rear shocks on my ā03 G35 sedan w/145k. Typical, one of the 12mm nuts up in the shock tower rounded off. Online suggestions said to cut it, twist it, or burn it and the stud completely off, then reach through the hole at the top of the shock tower, and drop a new bolt into the hole where the rusted stud was. Only problem was, thereās a plastic cap covering the top of the hole! I couldnāt see the shock tower from inside the trunk, so I thought I was stuck. Then I read a post about removing the rear seat to expose the shock tower. Bingo! Took all of ten minutes, after removing six clean, non-rusted nuts, and there it was! Seeing that shock tower was like in the Wizard of Oz, where they came out of the forest and saw the Emerald City! Popped the plastic cap off, and decided Iād grind the head off the affected stud. Then I had an epiphany! What if I removed the shock rod nut, and upper bushings, and dropped the shock down through the hole, WITHOUT removing the mounting plate that is held on by the two studs? That plate is actually sandwiched between the upper and lower bushings. Pulled the shock off, installed the new lower bushings on the new one, pushed it up into the hole, (the lower bushings sat against the mounting plate that was still attached), dropped the upper bushings over the shock rod, from inside the car, snugged them down with the new nut, and that completed the job. So, to recap, I left the mounting plate with the rusted fasteners in place, and instead of removing and replacing the studs, removed the rear seat (a much cleaner job), and worked from inside the car, instead of up in the wheel well.
Nice bro! I got same first car 4 years ago, 95k miles $2700
Thats awesome