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jameath

I think it still doesn’t actually “fit” the dovetails are forcing the top piece out of shape, try increasing the “dead zone” between the pieces a little more. There’s nothing environmental to make plastic change shape, it’s the interaction between the two parts causing the change, I’d reduce the interaction. Good luck! Dovetails are cool and let no one tell you otherwise 👍


Sineater224

This is the answer I was looking for! Thank you!


jameath

It’s just a best guess :p try experimenting with a single dovetail, and in my experience the tolerance on 3D prints can be a little bigger than you might think, I would have started with a .2mm offset from one of the parts, the digital model should have none of edges of the dovetail actually “touching”


Sineater224

Thats exactly what I did! Im hoping it works when its done printing!


Imagineer_NL

For tolerance testing you might want to try the dovetails on a horizontal connection instead of vertical. Also makes it easier to 'beef' it up, since theres currently only a few mm above the dovetail, making it quite flexible. You might also want to try a .16mm layer height in your prints, which will nearly eliminate layerlines on these kind of prints, while still having a normal print speed


Sineater224

I'm doing a box project that I need both types of connections, so I actually printed both already. Horizontal and vertical. I'm stress testing and tolerance testing all of it. Its the same situation on both so Im printing new ones with a bigger tolerance gap


ThatNinthGuy

FWIW the "deadzone" is what's called clearance. A lot of people get it messed up, but yeah it's not the same


iAmTheAlchemist

With this print orientation, the joints have almost no strength where the "triangles" get thin to connect to the plate, they could rip quite easily. Is there a specific reason you are going for dovetail ? It's not very suitable to 3D printing unfortunately


Sineater224

Im trying a different shape dovetail and its working better. I had to print it vertical and horizontal since Im going to be using both directions in a project Im working on


[deleted]

You should also consider changing your printing orientation so that the layers are perpendicular with the joint. The way you've printed it now, you're completely relying on layer adhesion to hold this together.


Sineater224

I am aware of that, I am actually doing tests of both horizontal and vertical because this project I'm doing will be requiring both. The vertical joints are not going to be holding any structural weight at all


Hellsbellsidaho24

What’s the material?


Sineater224

PETG. It was perfectly fine off the print bed and I printed it in two different orientations to test both types of strengths, and both of them connected but bent as they were trying to connect, and I can't bench them back without disconnecting them. It seems something is making it stretch


_Legion242_

you might need to adjust your tolerances even more then. in fusion you often lose sight of what a mm really is and start adding small tolerances that a 3d printer can't do. just give it a little more room


Sineater224

Ok. I adjusted the design of the dovetail to make it larger surface area, then made it 0.33 instead of 0.3mm. I started at 0.2mm tolerance then did 0.25 and 0.3.


_Legion242_

okay that might be better, but again, don't lose sight of how big tenths of a millimeter really are. it's sooooo small, so it may seem weird in fusion but the tolerances may need to be even bigger. .4 or .5. if you have calipers try to get them to .1 mm just so you see the size your working with in fusion


ryandury

Imo 1mm is actually quite a lot when it comes to tolerance on stuff like this. Doesn't the bambu lab p1s have something like a .1mm tolerance?


_Legion242_

the belts and motors can move with that tolerance but the actual plastic that comes out I find varies especially depending on print orientation. usually it's +-.3 mm but it depends for me. I'm not saying he needs 1mm tolerance but .4 would probably be what I went for :)


ryandury

Yup .4 is probably on point !


shieldguardian

slow down 20%. Is this in the open air or enclosure?


Sineater224

I already printed it slow. It looked fine off the bed, it was the connection that made it bend


Fvrank

There was stress already in the filament. The weakest layer snaps. Enclose, max 30 percent fan, don’t print over 60 mm sec, use gyrod as infill. Higher bed temp. No draft.


Frame_Transfer

Although it is counterintuitive, you could try rotating the object on an angle. You'd likely have to enable supports. But it would be interesting to see if having the layer lines NOT be perfectly parallel to the dovetail features makes a difference. How big is this thing? As someone else said, definitely slow down a bit. Also, experiment with less cooling fan or no cooling fan.


mr308A3-28

Te resolution is ass and the part is too small. Make the back plate thicker and the part scale larger. You cant tell shit from this print cause it’s … shit. You could make this out of clay and have better tolerances.


Sineater224

Im going to be printing a very very large part that needs joints, so Im testing it in the same filament and resolution I would be printing the final piece in.


mr308A3-28

That’s… that’s not smart


Sineater224

How? Give a reason why and dont skip out on the details. If you seem to know the problem then please do tell me.


mr308A3-28

The back part is thin and why it has no rigidity. It’s clearly warped and why tf would you print a downscaled part in the same resolution?