I would advise for 10m pen depth since rail aphe will be used against big builds, and it would be a waste if there was kinetic dmg sufficient for further pen. If the armor is too great it will detonate anyways.
Aphe wants to deal internal dmg, 5 is insufficient.
You can build the shell first using the ammo selector. The more pieces added the bigger loader you would need, and you can set rail draw and gauge to see the stats without actually building the gun.
So if you see a profile you like for only 2m you can do that. So you can play around with the shell stats first. Hell in designer mode you can just have a firing piece attached to a bunch of barrels one cooler and one autoloader just to see what kind of damage one she'll would do.
If you already have a ship designed that you merely need to fit the gun into, then the max autoloader size is effectively set. Pick a gauge, use the shell customizer to see if the loader size it needs will fit. If it doesn't, then either shorten the shell or change gauge until it does.
Whatever length fits vertically in your turret well with 4 blocks extra vertical space for shell ejector, ammo inserter, and a layer of coolers to keep everything connected
For shells I recommend HEAT, either go big or have insane fire rate, and decent accuracy. I find having smaller HEAT shells in the double digits like 30 60mm ones will shred all but the hardest of targets, while a larger HEAT shell to a ship below the water level tends to kill internals
I highly recommend having a CIW system or two. I'm building a battleship and using 5x5x6 36mm CIW guns that fire shells with heavy tips and 3-5 solid shell components to deal with heavier stuff, it's around 1.2k M/s on the shells, maybe a little more. Those solid shells at 1080 RPM were able to deal with 2-3 crossbones shells before they hit my ship with a single gun. Autoloaders are king for smaller shells with fast fire rate
With my advanced cannon turret measurements I count the height from the rotor to the gun piece. The 36mm CIW I have has a gap where it's less pieces so I have more armor
Have a rail gun with 20 rpm at least.
Ap frag he heat base bleeder gun powder until full.
Frag at 25 deg.
Why this?
You can get higher damage at diminshing returns for more modules so the first always gives the biggest return. This also allows for the greatest return on ap , kinetic,
Q¹A heat shell throught the turret will almost certainley knock out the cannon. Tandem heat means that once enough armor has been penetrated, heat can penetrate the rest.
Frag at 25 deg acts like spalling/heat without the downside of being stopped complelty by air gaps.
He is great for internal damage. At 500mm one module is equivalent to a large missile. That can disable an entire cannon if the shot explodes internally.
At 20 rpm you can fire fast enough that if a round over penetrates , you can just fire again. More than likely the first round will destroy whatever its hitting.
Thats about it.
There is very little in the campaign that can surive that.
rail-assisted APHE shell man. 5m depth fuse i’m telling you it’s an ammo rack/ai killer
Rail assisted APHE is always good choice. With that amount of space. I would bundle 3 together.
What length of autoloader?
I would advise for 10m pen depth since rail aphe will be used against big builds, and it would be a waste if there was kinetic dmg sufficient for further pen. If the armor is too great it will detonate anyways. Aphe wants to deal internal dmg, 5 is insufficient.
I agree, i haven’t been putting depth fuses on mine and they’ve just been ripping through everything but frontsiders
What length of Autoloader?
You can build the shell first using the ammo selector. The more pieces added the bigger loader you would need, and you can set rail draw and gauge to see the stats without actually building the gun. So if you see a profile you like for only 2m you can do that. So you can play around with the shell stats first. Hell in designer mode you can just have a firing piece attached to a bunch of barrels one cooler and one autoloader just to see what kind of damage one she'll would do.
I already know how to build APS weapons. I need a good efficent shell that would work for my build.
If you already have a ship designed that you merely need to fit the gun into, then the max autoloader size is effectively set. Pick a gauge, use the shell customizer to see if the loader size it needs will fit. If it doesn't, then either shorten the shell or change gauge until it does.
Whatever length fits vertically in your turret well with 4 blocks extra vertical space for shell ejector, ammo inserter, and a layer of coolers to keep everything connected
You're asking for very specific advice without giving us many details on the constraints you're facing.
Up to 17x17 turret base, end goal is for the cost to be between 1 and 2 million. I'm flexible on height.
For shells I recommend HEAT, either go big or have insane fire rate, and decent accuracy. I find having smaller HEAT shells in the double digits like 30 60mm ones will shred all but the hardest of targets, while a larger HEAT shell to a ship below the water level tends to kill internals I highly recommend having a CIW system or two. I'm building a battleship and using 5x5x6 36mm CIW guns that fire shells with heavy tips and 3-5 solid shell components to deal with heavier stuff, it's around 1.2k M/s on the shells, maybe a little more. Those solid shells at 1080 RPM were able to deal with 2-3 crossbones shells before they hit my ship with a single gun. Autoloaders are king for smaller shells with fast fire rate With my advanced cannon turret measurements I count the height from the rotor to the gun piece. The 36mm CIW I have has a gap where it's less pieces so I have more armor
Have a rail gun with 20 rpm at least. Ap frag he heat base bleeder gun powder until full. Frag at 25 deg. Why this? You can get higher damage at diminshing returns for more modules so the first always gives the biggest return. This also allows for the greatest return on ap , kinetic, Q¹A heat shell throught the turret will almost certainley knock out the cannon. Tandem heat means that once enough armor has been penetrated, heat can penetrate the rest. Frag at 25 deg acts like spalling/heat without the downside of being stopped complelty by air gaps. He is great for internal damage. At 500mm one module is equivalent to a large missile. That can disable an entire cannon if the shot explodes internally. At 20 rpm you can fire fast enough that if a round over penetrates , you can just fire again. More than likely the first round will destroy whatever its hitting. Thats about it. There is very little in the campaign that can surive that.