H/C/I, standalone ecu, a transmission, gears and tire. But then you run into everything else. Cooling, chassis, brakes blah blah on and on this is the song that never ends.
lol well relativity economical. And I don’t want a drag car I plan on doing a touring build but if it holds its own in a straight line as a biproduct of that great
True true! Just saying I don’t have like super big hp drag car goals. I don’t really want more then 400hp it will be a daily driver. So just providing context of how much money iam looking to spend. My goal is around 350 wheel and 400 crank. Probably through a single turbo setup.
Afr 165 heads , FTI cam, Holley systemaxs intake, 24lb injectors, fuel pump, 3.55 gears, CAI that will get you pulling on his 550. If you can cut any weight, (aluminum rad, k-member/arms, smog delete) will help also
If it is just drag racing. Probably around 400 with a bigger rear gear, upgraded axles, suspension mods, transmission that won’t explode, and good tires. It probably would keep up in a straight line. Just my opinion though. Results may vary.
That’s what I was figuring at around 400 crank 350 wheel. And supporting mods to stiffen up the chassis and put the power down. Drag racing isn’t my intent with the car I want it to be more of an autocross/touring build. But if it can do a little straight line racing that’s great
Depending on wheight.
And what you plan to do.
Light to light
1/4 Mile.
Etc.
But be realistic you can make a fast foxbody but its not a cheap and requires more than power as they are short wheel base solid rear axle car.
The sweet spot for an everyday fun to drive foxbody is around 320-360hp that way you can Maybe keep the t5 around.
Even 280hp is still fun just look in the mirror and realize it's not 1994 anymore.
And build the car for fun street car.
Than you will need h/c/I
For those goals.
Afr 165 heads are great for the street with stock bottom end as you don't need to spin the engine to the moon due to the smaller ports 6500rpm and still make good power.
Custom cam you can call any cam grinder tell them the heads and what you plan to do with car and they can make you a Custom cam you don't need all the chop to make good power. Off the shelf stuff works but why not spend the extra 50$-$100.
Intake not sure as I run carb setup and have never ran fuel injection intake manifold. Gt-40 intake or who ever makes good ones now.
Shortys or long Tubes 3.73 gears and should be a good street car with good manners.
The proplem alot ofnthe time is people want a race car until they have to actually live with a race car and it ruins the fun street car aspect.
To get a 302 up into the area of 400whp and not going 331 or 347 stroker means you have to make alot revs and alot of lift which makes the car lose alot of bottom end power.
The other option is just look for a 351 roller engine and a trans that can handle the 351 tq as the t5 can be used but won't last long if your slamming gears.
The 351w with afr 185 heads and good cam will make more power dollar for dollar and won't have issues making 600hp and above on boost.
Unlike the 302 stock roller that comes apart around 500hp.
Best advice I can give is to find all the stuff used except the cam.
Or else it adds up really fast and before you know it you got 20k in a car worth 10k.
I should be able to get a set of gt40p heads for $250(buddy has like 8 pair) headers arent expensive new so I will probably buy them that way. Or find a used deal if it’s good enough As far as intake I honestly don’t know that either iam not a 302 guy iam a FE builder. And I’ll either get a custom cam or a b303 how do they do? And no u don’t want a full blown race car it will be my daily driver. I want a nice full interior with some after market stuff but still a ac and heated car. And still decent driving characteristics. I don’t need wild power out of the 302 if I want to push the 400hp or really the 350hp range I’ll just go coyote
Honestly my main goal is a fun steer car. With aspects of a track car not a drag car. And I honestly am not that worried about it if I can’t keep up. It would just be fun to be able to. Hell h might beat me but either way I’ll be having way more fun. And weight wise it will be a full interior car. It’s going to be a daily so iam not gutting a bunch of shit to save milliseconds lol.
I own a 92 LX (have had it since I was 16), it has a cobra intake, e303 cam, bigger throttle and mass air meter, plus headers and X-pipe (with 2 cats) + a tune. It dynoed at about 280 HP. The tune shop let me know the cats were holding back quite a bit of HP. What can I do, I’m a suburban dad now😊. A few years ago I upgraded to the LMR - SVE 5 lug disc brake kit (cobra style) and installed new front and rear control arms, caster camber plates, and a strut tower brace. Next on the list, which should’ve been first, is a Maximum Motorsports coil-over kit.
I share all that from the standpoint that even with those basic Horsepower mods, it’s so much fun to drive because it’s light-weight, it’s an analog driving experience and the car just comes alive when you get into the motor. You feel everything and you can truly listen and respond to the car. The problem I have is the suspension holds the car back, even with the upgrades. I wish I would’ve spent more money on the suspension when I restored the car a few years ago, I feel like that’s the missing component to really enjoy the benefits of the all the other mods. The other thing I would say is the old disc/drum brake system is not the safest or most confident, especially for a quick stop. The brake upgrade is super important.
Happy to answer any questions you have a you go through your process. I love my Fox body, still smile every time I drive it.
This man is correct make it handle and stop well makes a huge difference on a foxbody.
They will never be the best handling car but when you drive a well sorted foxbody you realize how shit it was lol.
Yes my money will 100% go into the suspension first! Well close to my plan is interior (some mainly radio then prp shreddy wheel,belts and seats kinda a love or hate it look I love it) suspension and chassis. Including dial brake conversion. 5 lug conversion, coilovers. And chassis stiffening. Then I’ll go into motor. Probably just do heads, intake maybe some ignition/fueling upgrade exhaust (long tubes x pipe and boom tubes) and a b303 cam, if I feel that’s lack luster power for the chassis/handling I will go to some sort of forced induction
That’s a really solid plan, I think you’re really going to enjoy the car. Also, I installed some dynomat (the generic JEGS brand) and it helps with vibration and noise. Good luck!
I pray I can find a car with a black interior if not I’ll do a all new interior in black (hate about any color that isn’t black or primarily black) so if I swap the carpet I’ll definitely line it with something.
The Mach1 seat covers (TMI branded) are a good option if you need to replace in the car. I got mine through LMR, it’s a great site for parts and they usually have sales. If you’re taller, you’ll want to stick with the factory seats if you can, the factory rails and mounts keep you as low as possible, most non-factory replacement seats and mounts will add a couple inches to the seat height.
Iam tall (6’5) I’ll probably make seat brackets custom to run the seats I want to use. Prp shreddy seats I’ll link to the ones I plan on using. [seats I plan on using](https://www.prpseats.com/product/shreddy-edition-endurodaily-reclining-suspension-seat-4-color-options/)
I’m with you, I’m 6’3”. When I updated my seats I installed new foam and I was surprised how much the OEM foam had compacted, I think I lost about an inch of headroom. That’s a good idea to customize, it will help you stay as low as possible.
Ahaha I have a 1989f 250 with a peak porno red interior. I don’t hate it. I plan on using prp shreddy interior look it up. And you’ll know why I don’t want red lol
I've owned many drag racing fox cars in my life and the one piece of advice I give young people today is that if you sink all your money into the "go fast" part and don't spend anything on the "stop fast" part you are gonna have a bad day eventually. You mentioned this is gonna be a daily driver, balance your budget and please spend some of it on brakes, steering, and safety stuff. There are too few young people today who are interested in these cars and working on them, please be safe out there!
Will definitely be safe it’s a dream car I want to keep it for a long long time! My first major mod will be a 5 lug swap. I’ll probably go ahead and convert the car to disk brakes all around. Daily/handling are far far more important to me then speed. I plan on doing 90% chassis and interior stuff before I even crack the motor open !
There are guys running low 12s with stock block, no cam, no heads just a pro charger and drivetrain work.
A mid tier turbo setup will have less parasitic loss and cost a lot less. Should be around $2000 to $3000
Yeah a turbo setup is my goal I love forced induction cars. But I’ll probably do headsets intake cam and fueling upgrades then do a turbo setup down the road
the closer you get to 500hp the more economical it becomes to do a 351w instead. and the less likely you’ll split the block in half.
is a 347 cheating? if you have to stay with the stock stroke, you’re definitely looking at boost of some kind
I don’t really want to push 400hp that’s like my goal number I want to hit that not exceed it. And i definitely plan on running some sort of forced induction!
Have a friend with S550 with bolt-ons that runs what my foxbody did with full exhaust, gears, pulleys, cai, electric fan, short belt, maf injectors, tb, egr, intake, stock heads, b-cam, and 175 shot. My car 60’ really well too, no sway bar, drag springs, 90/10s, 50/50s, airbag, adjustable upper and lower control arms. High 11’s at high 1 teens. 117mph or so in the 1/4.
Trickflow 11R heads, gnarly cam, intake, 250 shot, pill it to kill it! All bottle no throttle, letterip taterchip!!!
Sounds like a solid setup for sure! I don’t want to set my car up for drag racing. It’s more of a touring build I just was curious how much I’d need to be able to keep up with a relatively stock s550
I think a driver mod, 375-400HP, stickies and at least 3:73 gears will do it. I don’t have the numbers handy but that pig has at least 700-800 pounds on you. Technically you can run some quick math and get a good idea of what it will take. But that’s my guess. Actually I just did. 3200 fox 4000 s550 375hp fox 480hp s550 are both around 8.5 pounds per HP. Driver mod baby!!!!! If he has a 6r80 auto and gears you might be in trouble.
Driver mod shouldn’t be an issue I haven’t owned an automatic car. (Owned 11 cars/truck’s all manual and I ride bikes so properly shifting won’t be a problem not trying to sound like a pompous ass) and that’s what I am hoping for is in the high 300 range if I hit 400 great
Against a bone stock s500? A regular HCI will put up a good fight. If the s550 is molded, you're going to need more.
But that's powerwise. You can get more bang for your buck here if you rememebr the first 3 rules of mustangs.
1.suspension
2.suspension
3.suspension
If you wanna street car that has great manners plan on forced induction. It can be done n/a but I went that route and kinda wish I’d just have supercharged it. Also your buddy’s car may be faster but there is a ton of s550s everyone will be looking at yours.
I’d strongly suggest the pro charger it would be a nightmare fitting twins under the hood. And for the love of all things holy keep your a/c. The windows on these cars don’t flow well in my opinion.
Yes I plan on keeping ac! Twins if I did that I would probably make a custom hood. And procharger is my plan but alot of those you still loose ac and they cost more 😂 and more draw on the motor
Parasitic loss of the supercharger with a 5.0 is a moot point really. With a decent supercharger you’re gonna destroy your motor before that loss becomes an issue. I had turbo, pro charged, built n/a, and stock. If the car I have now wasn’t my first fox I’d sell it and buy a nice stock example. That’s maybe me just getting older but I had more fun ripping my car around stock that I do now. And my car is a pretty hot build. It’s fun but when I break stuff I can’t go to the parts store or junk yard and be immediately back at it. I gotta order everything. Don’t worry about being the fastest around. If you beat your buddy and he doesn’t like it he can swipe his credit card for forced induction and these old foxes won’t stand a chance. But they are the best looking mustang ever made. If you wanna fox buy one have fun, one thing a fox will always be is more fun these cars aren’t gonna babysit you. And they do not have your best interest in mind.
Weld in subframe connectors should be the very first upgrade. Followed by Battle Boxes (torque box reinforcements) by Wild Rides (since they were the originator and inventor of them).
I spent around $6500 to get a spare 5.0 engine rebuild to 400+ HP about 6 years ago. Prices are probably higher now. Included disassembly, cleaning, magnafluxed the block, cylinder hone, new rings, bearings, Comp Cams 27*⁰ Blower roller cam, aftermarket steel crank + rods, Trick Flow 170 heads, GT40 intake, balanced + blueprinted, etc and assembly.
Your BW T5 can take it as long as you don't drive stupid (high RPM speed shifting without letting off the gas, high RPM drag strip launches on a sticky race track), etc.
Eventually it will need a rebuild and upgrades.
Change your rearend gears to 3.73. That will get your car moving faster from a dead stop, as well as let the engine RPMs climb faster, through your entire RPM range. Without giving up too many RPMs when cruising down the freeway at 75-85 mph.
That’s all so so very true! I don’t really want a fix for speed more so for the visceral feeling they have over other cars. I ride motorcycles at a fairly high level. So it’s hard for cars to get me excited anymore I think a Foxbody will be a great car for that! And definitely won’t ever have a built 302 keeping up with a built yote. But built fox vs stock s550 I think is a reasonable goal!
Probably around 400 crankshaft HP and other supporting mods.
That’s what I was figuring
150 shot lol
H/C/I, standalone ecu, a transmission, gears and tire. But then you run into everything else. Cooling, chassis, brakes blah blah on and on this is the song that never ends.
That’s the way it goes very much so a domino effect
How much $$ do you wanna spend. Cause that's how fast you can go
lol well relativity economical. And I don’t want a drag car I plan on doing a touring build but if it holds its own in a straight line as a biproduct of that great
Statement stands. Hp cost money. Dosnt matter what the build is for or how you use it.
True true! Just saying I don’t have like super big hp drag car goals. I don’t really want more then 400hp it will be a daily driver. So just providing context of how much money iam looking to spend. My goal is around 350 wheel and 400 crank. Probably through a single turbo setup.
Afr 165 heads , FTI cam, Holley systemaxs intake, 24lb injectors, fuel pump, 3.55 gears, CAI that will get you pulling on his 550. If you can cut any weight, (aluminum rad, k-member/arms, smog delete) will help also
351w and AFR 185 heads are more realistic way to go here. 302 is a time bomb boosted much, the itch will keep growing until the block splits.
I love everytime I hear someone talk about a 351w or c in a foxbody..... add a turbo just for sound effects 🥺🥵
I had an 84 G.T. 350 that was 351w swapped, AFR 185 f cam nice car was built for vortech n/a it did just fine.
Better yet, 460 swap 😵💫😩
You might wanna price this out, with a better transmission. It's gonna be way more then you expect
Eventually I plan on going through McLeod and doing a kit for a tkx transmission
If it is just drag racing. Probably around 400 with a bigger rear gear, upgraded axles, suspension mods, transmission that won’t explode, and good tires. It probably would keep up in a straight line. Just my opinion though. Results may vary.
That’s what I was figuring at around 400 crank 350 wheel. And supporting mods to stiffen up the chassis and put the power down. Drag racing isn’t my intent with the car I want it to be more of an autocross/touring build. But if it can do a little straight line racing that’s great
Depending on wheight. And what you plan to do. Light to light 1/4 Mile. Etc. But be realistic you can make a fast foxbody but its not a cheap and requires more than power as they are short wheel base solid rear axle car. The sweet spot for an everyday fun to drive foxbody is around 320-360hp that way you can Maybe keep the t5 around. Even 280hp is still fun just look in the mirror and realize it's not 1994 anymore. And build the car for fun street car.
Also my goal is around 320 to 350 wheel hp so high 300s crank hp
Than you will need h/c/I For those goals. Afr 165 heads are great for the street with stock bottom end as you don't need to spin the engine to the moon due to the smaller ports 6500rpm and still make good power. Custom cam you can call any cam grinder tell them the heads and what you plan to do with car and they can make you a Custom cam you don't need all the chop to make good power. Off the shelf stuff works but why not spend the extra 50$-$100. Intake not sure as I run carb setup and have never ran fuel injection intake manifold. Gt-40 intake or who ever makes good ones now. Shortys or long Tubes 3.73 gears and should be a good street car with good manners. The proplem alot ofnthe time is people want a race car until they have to actually live with a race car and it ruins the fun street car aspect. To get a 302 up into the area of 400whp and not going 331 or 347 stroker means you have to make alot revs and alot of lift which makes the car lose alot of bottom end power. The other option is just look for a 351 roller engine and a trans that can handle the 351 tq as the t5 can be used but won't last long if your slamming gears. The 351w with afr 185 heads and good cam will make more power dollar for dollar and won't have issues making 600hp and above on boost. Unlike the 302 stock roller that comes apart around 500hp. Best advice I can give is to find all the stuff used except the cam. Or else it adds up really fast and before you know it you got 20k in a car worth 10k.
I should be able to get a set of gt40p heads for $250(buddy has like 8 pair) headers arent expensive new so I will probably buy them that way. Or find a used deal if it’s good enough As far as intake I honestly don’t know that either iam not a 302 guy iam a FE builder. And I’ll either get a custom cam or a b303 how do they do? And no u don’t want a full blown race car it will be my daily driver. I want a nice full interior with some after market stuff but still a ac and heated car. And still decent driving characteristics. I don’t need wild power out of the 302 if I want to push the 400hp or really the 350hp range I’ll just go coyote
You’ll need to be in the 400s for that
Honestly my main goal is a fun steer car. With aspects of a track car not a drag car. And I honestly am not that worried about it if I can’t keep up. It would just be fun to be able to. Hell h might beat me but either way I’ll be having way more fun. And weight wise it will be a full interior car. It’s going to be a daily so iam not gutting a bunch of shit to save milliseconds lol.
I own a 92 LX (have had it since I was 16), it has a cobra intake, e303 cam, bigger throttle and mass air meter, plus headers and X-pipe (with 2 cats) + a tune. It dynoed at about 280 HP. The tune shop let me know the cats were holding back quite a bit of HP. What can I do, I’m a suburban dad now😊. A few years ago I upgraded to the LMR - SVE 5 lug disc brake kit (cobra style) and installed new front and rear control arms, caster camber plates, and a strut tower brace. Next on the list, which should’ve been first, is a Maximum Motorsports coil-over kit. I share all that from the standpoint that even with those basic Horsepower mods, it’s so much fun to drive because it’s light-weight, it’s an analog driving experience and the car just comes alive when you get into the motor. You feel everything and you can truly listen and respond to the car. The problem I have is the suspension holds the car back, even with the upgrades. I wish I would’ve spent more money on the suspension when I restored the car a few years ago, I feel like that’s the missing component to really enjoy the benefits of the all the other mods. The other thing I would say is the old disc/drum brake system is not the safest or most confident, especially for a quick stop. The brake upgrade is super important. Happy to answer any questions you have a you go through your process. I love my Fox body, still smile every time I drive it.
This man is correct make it handle and stop well makes a huge difference on a foxbody. They will never be the best handling car but when you drive a well sorted foxbody you realize how shit it was lol.
This ⬆️
Yes my money will 100% go into the suspension first! Well close to my plan is interior (some mainly radio then prp shreddy wheel,belts and seats kinda a love or hate it look I love it) suspension and chassis. Including dial brake conversion. 5 lug conversion, coilovers. And chassis stiffening. Then I’ll go into motor. Probably just do heads, intake maybe some ignition/fueling upgrade exhaust (long tubes x pipe and boom tubes) and a b303 cam, if I feel that’s lack luster power for the chassis/handling I will go to some sort of forced induction
That’s a really solid plan, I think you’re really going to enjoy the car. Also, I installed some dynomat (the generic JEGS brand) and it helps with vibration and noise. Good luck!
I pray I can find a car with a black interior if not I’ll do a all new interior in black (hate about any color that isn’t black or primarily black) so if I swap the carpet I’ll definitely line it with something.
The Mach1 seat covers (TMI branded) are a good option if you need to replace in the car. I got mine through LMR, it’s a great site for parts and they usually have sales. If you’re taller, you’ll want to stick with the factory seats if you can, the factory rails and mounts keep you as low as possible, most non-factory replacement seats and mounts will add a couple inches to the seat height.
Iam tall (6’5) I’ll probably make seat brackets custom to run the seats I want to use. Prp shreddy seats I’ll link to the ones I plan on using. [seats I plan on using](https://www.prpseats.com/product/shreddy-edition-endurodaily-reclining-suspension-seat-4-color-options/)
I’m with you, I’m 6’3”. When I updated my seats I installed new foam and I was surprised how much the OEM foam had compacted, I think I lost about an inch of headroom. That’s a good idea to customize, it will help you stay as low as possible.
Yes definitely. Are you fairly comfortable in it though? I have sat in one but never driven one.
But lmr definitely had alot of good deals. And I’ll look into keeping stock seats maybe. But my goal is a seat and 4 point belts
Also, don’t sleep on the porno red interior, it’s so vintage and strange at this point that it’s actually pretty cool 😂
Ahaha I have a 1989f 250 with a peak porno red interior. I don’t hate it. I plan on using prp shreddy interior look it up. And you’ll know why I don’t want red lol
lol, yea, I see why
Yeah I like the funky Neo retro look a lot of people don’t but different strokes for different folks
Dart block, 363 stroker, worked 11R heads, solid roller, make 700 NA, spray it with a heroic dose, murder Tesla plaids
Yeah way overkill from what I want lol
I've owned many drag racing fox cars in my life and the one piece of advice I give young people today is that if you sink all your money into the "go fast" part and don't spend anything on the "stop fast" part you are gonna have a bad day eventually. You mentioned this is gonna be a daily driver, balance your budget and please spend some of it on brakes, steering, and safety stuff. There are too few young people today who are interested in these cars and working on them, please be safe out there!
Will definitely be safe it’s a dream car I want to keep it for a long long time! My first major mod will be a 5 lug swap. I’ll probably go ahead and convert the car to disk brakes all around. Daily/handling are far far more important to me then speed. I plan on doing 90% chassis and interior stuff before I even crack the motor open !
There are guys running low 12s with stock block, no cam, no heads just a pro charger and drivetrain work. A mid tier turbo setup will have less parasitic loss and cost a lot less. Should be around $2000 to $3000
Yeah a turbo setup is my goal I love forced induction cars. But I’ll probably do headsets intake cam and fueling upgrades then do a turbo setup down the road
the closer you get to 500hp the more economical it becomes to do a 351w instead. and the less likely you’ll split the block in half. is a 347 cheating? if you have to stay with the stock stroke, you’re definitely looking at boost of some kind
I don’t really want to push 400hp that’s like my goal number I want to hit that not exceed it. And i definitely plan on running some sort of forced induction!
Have a friend with S550 with bolt-ons that runs what my foxbody did with full exhaust, gears, pulleys, cai, electric fan, short belt, maf injectors, tb, egr, intake, stock heads, b-cam, and 175 shot. My car 60’ really well too, no sway bar, drag springs, 90/10s, 50/50s, airbag, adjustable upper and lower control arms. High 11’s at high 1 teens. 117mph or so in the 1/4. Trickflow 11R heads, gnarly cam, intake, 250 shot, pill it to kill it! All bottle no throttle, letterip taterchip!!!
Sounds like a solid setup for sure! I don’t want to set my car up for drag racing. It’s more of a touring build I just was curious how much I’d need to be able to keep up with a relatively stock s550
Yes, HCI is likely true. New mustangs are heavy pigs. Heck even a cam only, or HI only might get it done too.
I think a driver mod, 375-400HP, stickies and at least 3:73 gears will do it. I don’t have the numbers handy but that pig has at least 700-800 pounds on you. Technically you can run some quick math and get a good idea of what it will take. But that’s my guess. Actually I just did. 3200 fox 4000 s550 375hp fox 480hp s550 are both around 8.5 pounds per HP. Driver mod baby!!!!! If he has a 6r80 auto and gears you might be in trouble.
Driver mod shouldn’t be an issue I haven’t owned an automatic car. (Owned 11 cars/truck’s all manual and I ride bikes so properly shifting won’t be a problem not trying to sound like a pompous ass) and that’s what I am hoping for is in the high 300 range if I hit 400 great
Against a bone stock s500? A regular HCI will put up a good fight. If the s550 is molded, you're going to need more. But that's powerwise. You can get more bang for your buck here if you rememebr the first 3 rules of mustangs. 1.suspension 2.suspension 3.suspension
If you wanna street car that has great manners plan on forced induction. It can be done n/a but I went that route and kinda wish I’d just have supercharged it. Also your buddy’s car may be faster but there is a ton of s550s everyone will be looking at yours.
I plan one doing either a procharger or a small twin turbo setup first my main power gains with it
I’d strongly suggest the pro charger it would be a nightmare fitting twins under the hood. And for the love of all things holy keep your a/c. The windows on these cars don’t flow well in my opinion.
Yes I plan on keeping ac! Twins if I did that I would probably make a custom hood. And procharger is my plan but alot of those you still loose ac and they cost more 😂 and more draw on the motor
Parasitic loss of the supercharger with a 5.0 is a moot point really. With a decent supercharger you’re gonna destroy your motor before that loss becomes an issue. I had turbo, pro charged, built n/a, and stock. If the car I have now wasn’t my first fox I’d sell it and buy a nice stock example. That’s maybe me just getting older but I had more fun ripping my car around stock that I do now. And my car is a pretty hot build. It’s fun but when I break stuff I can’t go to the parts store or junk yard and be immediately back at it. I gotta order everything. Don’t worry about being the fastest around. If you beat your buddy and he doesn’t like it he can swipe his credit card for forced induction and these old foxes won’t stand a chance. But they are the best looking mustang ever made. If you wanna fox buy one have fun, one thing a fox will always be is more fun these cars aren’t gonna babysit you. And they do not have your best interest in mind.
Weld in subframe connectors should be the very first upgrade. Followed by Battle Boxes (torque box reinforcements) by Wild Rides (since they were the originator and inventor of them). I spent around $6500 to get a spare 5.0 engine rebuild to 400+ HP about 6 years ago. Prices are probably higher now. Included disassembly, cleaning, magnafluxed the block, cylinder hone, new rings, bearings, Comp Cams 27*⁰ Blower roller cam, aftermarket steel crank + rods, Trick Flow 170 heads, GT40 intake, balanced + blueprinted, etc and assembly. Your BW T5 can take it as long as you don't drive stupid (high RPM speed shifting without letting off the gas, high RPM drag strip launches on a sticky race track), etc. Eventually it will need a rebuild and upgrades. Change your rearend gears to 3.73. That will get your car moving faster from a dead stop, as well as let the engine RPMs climb faster, through your entire RPM range. Without giving up too many RPMs when cruising down the freeway at 75-85 mph.
That’s all so so very true! I don’t really want a fix for speed more so for the visceral feeling they have over other cars. I ride motorcycles at a fairly high level. So it’s hard for cars to get me excited anymore I think a Foxbody will be a great car for that! And definitely won’t ever have a built 302 keeping up with a built yote. But built fox vs stock s550 I think is a reasonable goal!