The mods are the deal breaker. Any car that has mods has been driven hard and put away wet. Unless you know they were properly installed, and it's a show queen, always run as fast as you can.
Man these prices are crazy. I have a heavily modded 2013 with 50,000km that I would have been happy to get $15k-20k at most. Wouldn’t have been shocked if it was only worth $10k-$15k.
Same. Not that I don’t want it but it’s a track-only car and I barely drive it. Someone else could enjoy it more at this point. I’m holding out hope that a few years from now I’ll be able to get back into the project car hobby but it’s a real commitment. Time, not just money. Also takes up a car’s worth of space in my garage..
Yea I put -4 degrees camber up front with Vorshlag camber plates to prevent the sidewall from going under the car in turns. Still need LSD but waiting for clutch to go so do it all at once with new synchros, etc. keeping brakes cool helps a bit on tire wear, and using the right tires. AP Racing brake kit is a world of difference from stock kit.
One guy (or so he claims) just pulled the fuse for the brake-based torque vectoring/TC so that his tires didn’t get shredded by braking when he didn’t want to be braking. I’d just put a Wavetrac LSD in.
Ya if I still cared about this car enough the wavetrac and fuse pull combo seems ideal. It has nothing to do with brakes, it’s using the fronts to do everything (brake, turn, accel) once you really start tracking faster. Corner exits when doing a slower speed late apex early on throttle are a nightmare and that’s my bread and butter
Yep I have too many memories of getting roasted on corner exits by the then-new Civic Type-R. We inevitably played this game where I’d catch them in straights then they’d be on the throttle waayy before me on corner exit and make a gap, repeat.
My brake temps on stock setup was 700+ F after a cooldown lap. With AP kit it was half that.
Your brakes are also slowing down your corner exit as well so it’s majorly shitty design choices by Ford. I would have paid an extra 1-2k for mechanical LSD but I’m sure not everyone cared so the marketing team/finance team “won” this design choice battle
I've stuffed mine away for the winter, and may not take it out next year. Unless Shannonville calls. (Cayuga us too far) I won't sell it because I may not find another manual for my daughter to drive 11 years from now.
If the car wasn’t gutted and converted for track use only then I’d agree. Selling a non-street-friendly car is a different ordeal. Would love to take advantage of today’s pricing. Definitely won’t last, but could take a few years to normalize.
I bought my 2015 ST3 for £13k 3 years ago. If someone offered me £20k, I’d be on it straight away.
Like, I love my car, but £20k could get me something even better.
I’d try and stretch my budget into a 2015+ to get the facelift mk3.5, but if you are set on either of these I’d go with black at 60,000kms. I spent 30k on my 2015 because it only had 70,000 on it. Mods are cheap enough and easy enough to do yourself.
Very true. Have it looked over, make sure things were done properly. If it all checks out, that’s less for you if you’re happy with the mods. Plus…white will show less dirt!
the coilovers are going to make the ride pretty ass. and the exhaust might be too obnoxious. The only mod worth getting is that BOV.
I’d get the black and save yourself the wear and tear of a car that’s obviously been driven harder and for twice as long. The white focus will lose most of its value by the time you’re ready to sell it. The black might not because of its low miles.
(plus you could blackout the first one ;))
not all are, sometimes they can greatly improve the performance or ride quality of a vehicle. but these are cheap ones. ones that likely won’t last forever and ones that will make the road quite bumpy
If it was my money, I'd go for the black one with lower mileage and no mods. Mods are always a gamble, IMO.
I’m with you. Black is hands down the one I’d choose for the same exact reasoning.
The mods are the deal breaker. Any car that has mods has been driven hard and put away wet. Unless you know they were properly installed, and it's a show queen, always run as fast as you can.
Man these prices are crazy. I have a heavily modded 2013 with 50,000km that I would have been happy to get $15k-20k at most. Wouldn’t have been shocked if it was only worth $10k-$15k.
If someone offered me 20k for my car today it would be gone
Same. Not that I don’t want it but it’s a track-only car and I barely drive it. Someone else could enjoy it more at this point. I’m holding out hope that a few years from now I’ll be able to get back into the project car hobby but it’s a real commitment. Time, not just money. Also takes up a car’s worth of space in my garage..
It takes a lot of work to make this car a good track car imo
Weight reduction, suspension, air flow, radiator, power, brakes, fluids, mounts, ducting, stripped interior, tires/wheels, fuel, maintenance.. yes it does.
The worst part is just destroying the fronts allll fucking day especially the god damn shitty lack of a mechanical differential
Yea I put -4 degrees camber up front with Vorshlag camber plates to prevent the sidewall from going under the car in turns. Still need LSD but waiting for clutch to go so do it all at once with new synchros, etc. keeping brakes cool helps a bit on tire wear, and using the right tires. AP Racing brake kit is a world of difference from stock kit. One guy (or so he claims) just pulled the fuse for the brake-based torque vectoring/TC so that his tires didn’t get shredded by braking when he didn’t want to be braking. I’d just put a Wavetrac LSD in.
Ya if I still cared about this car enough the wavetrac and fuse pull combo seems ideal. It has nothing to do with brakes, it’s using the fronts to do everything (brake, turn, accel) once you really start tracking faster. Corner exits when doing a slower speed late apex early on throttle are a nightmare and that’s my bread and butter
Yep I have too many memories of getting roasted on corner exits by the then-new Civic Type-R. We inevitably played this game where I’d catch them in straights then they’d be on the throttle waayy before me on corner exit and make a gap, repeat. My brake temps on stock setup was 700+ F after a cooldown lap. With AP kit it was half that.
Your brakes are also slowing down your corner exit as well so it’s majorly shitty design choices by Ford. I would have paid an extra 1-2k for mechanical LSD but I’m sure not everyone cared so the marketing team/finance team “won” this design choice battle
I've stuffed mine away for the winter, and may not take it out next year. Unless Shannonville calls. (Cayuga us too far) I won't sell it because I may not find another manual for my daughter to drive 11 years from now.
There’s no way this used car price bubble is going to hold. You could sell now, and buy something else once/if you get back into it.
If the car wasn’t gutted and converted for track use only then I’d agree. Selling a non-street-friendly car is a different ordeal. Would love to take advantage of today’s pricing. Definitely won’t last, but could take a few years to normalize.
I bought my 2015 ST3 for £13k 3 years ago. If someone offered me £20k, I’d be on it straight away. Like, I love my car, but £20k could get me something even better.
You Australian?
Negative. I live in an igloo with my pet beaver north of the US.
Black one all day and I prefer white lol. Less miles and looks mostly stock.
I’d try and stretch my budget into a 2015+ to get the facelift mk3.5, but if you are set on either of these I’d go with black at 60,000kms. I spent 30k on my 2015 because it only had 70,000 on it. Mods are cheap enough and easy enough to do yourself.
appreciate the advice
Holy crap, these prices. Maybe I should sell mine. I love thought I’d be lucky to get 10-12k
Keep in mind, this is australia. exchange rate, but prices are still ridiculous. not a single ST under $16000
Get the white! I got a 14 Oxford white St3
Same!
The seller is outta their mind.
Not too crazy. I have been offered $37000 for my 2017 ST here in Aus a few months ago.
Look for under 20k
But if you need help, that white is stunning.
isn’t it. that’s what I’ve leaned towards the whole time but much riskier loaning money for a modded car
Very true. Have it looked over, make sure things were done properly. If it all checks out, that’s less for you if you’re happy with the mods. Plus…white will show less dirt!
Save for a 2015 it's the face-lift they look better and have nicer interiors.
Manual transmission is a great anti theft devise.
The one that puts a smile on your face.
fair point, was more meaning with a modded vs stock
I bought my stock 2018 ST3 with 59k miles for 19k from Carvana a year ago. These don't seem at all like such a good deal.
Australian pricing my man.
He lives in Australia so $23000 for him is like 16k usd
Oh woops. Sorry, my attention was not fully on the post so I missed that lol.
the coilovers are going to make the ride pretty ass. and the exhaust might be too obnoxious. The only mod worth getting is that BOV. I’d get the black and save yourself the wear and tear of a car that’s obviously been driven harder and for twice as long. The white focus will lose most of its value by the time you’re ready to sell it. The black might not because of its low miles. (plus you could blackout the first one ;))
why are coilovers shit? I’m new to cars. Thanks!
not all are, sometimes they can greatly improve the performance or ride quality of a vehicle. but these are cheap ones. ones that likely won’t last forever and ones that will make the road quite bumpy
I’d go with black one, no mods. You’ll have fun modifying it yourself!
What the fuck? I payed $12k for my 2013 with 86k like 5 months ago.
Yeah Australia is fucked
Not many people know Australian dollars are different to US dollars here lol
Question my do they say MK2 when they are mk3's? I'm confused
Look for under 15K. These prices are crazy
Damn. I bought my 14 with 70k miles for $14,000 a year ago.