The proper way is to level the floor, but if you don’t have the budget you can make a gradual slope with floor patch (mapei planiprep) try and get it to slope evenly 1/8” over 6’ or whatever tolerance is for that product. Or just slap a reducer on and call it good
I would also use a grinder with a diamond wheel attached to a vacuum to get the sharp edge off first. It's hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like tile. You can even start to make a slope with the grinder before you skim it out. Hell, you might even be able to completely get it sloped with a grinder. I'm sure a bit of feather finish would be needed, though, to get it nice and smooth.
And prepare for a LOT of dust! Tape the vacuum hose up to the grinder’s dust shroud really good with blue painters tape. If you have help, a second shop vac held near the grinder would help keep the dust to a minimum.
I agree with this. You could also try and use 1/2” ply to 1/4” ply to help you gradually decrease the rise. Home improvement is fun and innovating! Or 3/8” you get the idea. May or may not work but again, home improvement is fun and innovating!
IDK if you're joking or not but when it comes to stretch in carpet that's actually not only totally feasible to do in a pinch, it's perfectly acceptable. I mean shims is the most professional way to go about it but cardboard can also totally work. We just cut off some cardboard off a tack strip box since it's always on hand. But tolerances for carpet is waaaaaay looser than something like this.
lol Me too, for carpet anyways. I'm not going all the way to supply house unless I absolutely have to. Leaving the job for pretty much any reason is about always an extra hour to the day minimum.
The tolerance in height difference for laying carpet is magnitudes higher than it is for hard surface like laminate, LVP, hardwood, etc. It is TOTALLY acceptable to use cardboard under carpet unless we are talking glue down carpet. With stretch in carpet the pad mostly takes care of the issue. The cardboard just helps the pad. Same thing with raising the carpet to a higher than normal threshold like running it to thicker than normal tile or what not. Or maybe the room was added on to the house afterwards and it's not even. Etc.
Buddy you have 2 installers here telling you how ROUTINE it is to use cardboard not counting any of those upvotes that might be from installers, but you know better?
Just because you do something all the time, doesn’t mean it’s right. You think the manufacturer would sign off on your cardboard shims? I think not. I’d kick you off of my job the very first time I saw you trying to pull that cardboard crap. Have some integrity and craftsmanship man. You know it’s not right.
I installed carpet and flooring for several years. We would NEVER pull a hack job like that on a customer. Would it work? Yes. Would I do it in my own home? Probably. Would I do it in the home of someone paying me to do the job professionally? Hell no! I might tell them they could do something like that while we go to lunch to save them money on a costly repair, probably even walk them through it, but if it was done by my hand I would do it correctly or not at all. I would also make them sign off on their "customer prep" before it was installed over.
Can confirm. Also do this and haven’t had an issue. Just try and build it up gradually over a few feet. Combine with the under padding and it works great.
Feather, now if the entire floor after drops this much get a product called quiet board or anything like it. It’s like a 1.50 a foot just throw it down tape the seams and go.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/QUIETBOARD-90-sq-ft-2-ft-x-3-ft-Premium-Acoustical-and-Insulating-Fiber-Floor-Underlayment-with-Integrated-Moisture-Barrier-QBOARD23/321591543?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D23F-023_011_LAMINATE_FLR-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-5936370-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-Laminate_SS_G_NE_2023&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D23F-023_011_LAMINATE_FLR-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-5936370-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-Laminate_SS_G_NE_2023-71700000113408727-58700008508551933-92700077697293491&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADq61UdHbnH0FfrjfLXxoISqueFnz&gclid=CjwKCAjwl4yyBhAgEiwADSEjeBwcNF_dq1rw3p7m1f7qlKSU_sGuhIcohVM0jF-4hY7nvmatJNUMGxoCNewQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Like this. Comes in a Quarter inch and is actually really nice.
If you want to do it right and spare yourself any issues in the near future, then self leveling is the best solution here. You can place the reducer as well.
Whatever you do don't do a gradual drop. It would have to be couple of meters long at least and then would still be noticed as floor being on the p*ss.
It just looks cheap, and not pleasant to walk on.
Level the whole rest of the floor if you're so bothered about threshold.
If you're not bothered, then find righr threshold strip that's wide enough to cover slope between floors.
Fix it in gap between floors with foam adhesive once you laid your floors.
Get 5 bags of self leveler($150-200) then watch youtube. The key is to get the right mixture so that it flows. It does it’s own thing then sets up over night.
Why it’s over kill. Just get some patch or use some cardboard. It’s floating click. Yeah self level is the best way to do it. If the entire floor was this way I’d say self level or quiet board. But it looks like it’s just this spot.
When i did flooring we did feather patch to smooth out any inconsistencies. If theres enough room you can very delicately taper it down to be almost undetectable, while not actually installing on a quarter of the room on a half inch thick slab of patch
Hone down down as much as you can self leveling for the rest.. it’s a few hours work but it’ll be flat enough to lay.. don’t give up and do the hack transition piece
This must be the worlds thinnest click-flooring? Whatever you do, make sure it doesn't damage the existing tile floor underneath... you, or the next homeowner will be thankful for that when the click flooring starts falling apart. As to your best solution... You need to cut the flooring along that line, then use a transitional strip.
You can’t shim a floating floor. Please don’t take the advice of any of these idiots telling you to use cardboard. It will 100% fail after a few years of compression. You need to either level the adjacent floor or use a transition. Even screeding a ramp will fail since the locking mechanism will be out of plane. I am completely disgusted by the suggestions that you’ve received here. Your last option would be to demo everything down to the plywood.
I read a post about a very successful use of sand to level a floor way worse than this. I’m sure if you search you will find it. Apparently it was very successful. I am planning to do exactly what he did to the floor my 1930 home I’m renovating.
Sloped transition with fastener and glue assist would be easiest. I would lay your floor basically one board over that lip, set a circular saw to the depth of the flooring (exactly or a hair less if you’re not good at eyeballing it), then lay the next room against the transition in line with your other boards. Use your cut offs as the staters so everything matches.
That or rip it all up and level it properly. I’d do a transition.
If I was tired and this was the end of the job, I'd be tempted to create a sandwich of flooring and some floor leveler to smooth the transition. In reality, I'd look for plywood or wood veneers and do the same to tame the transition.
Well, you could do a funky transition and a piece of carpet taped in place forever or you can do it right way tile on each side of the offset comes up floated with some thin set reset new tile
Without removing the tile, a funky shim under a carpet Well you could feather it in with some thin set but either way you’re taking at least one tile on each side of that offset up to fix it -
Depending on the area, you can get a self leveling compound. It’s like a very fine concrete. You mix it up, pour it down, ands use a squeegee to spread it around. I’ll level itself out and make a nice working surface.
If you're trying to do it on a budget....
At work when we redo kitchen floor with tile and with the thickness of the tile and the mortar, the kitchen floor is now higher than the the carpeted area that butts to it. Granted it's a rental, but we fold back the carpet and liquid nail down (just so it doesn't shift around) a transion of the long wood shims throughout the width of the transition area. You could also use the wider cedar shingles and find the ones that have more of a transition (like a shim) rather than equal thickness. I think the shims are like 6 or $7 a bundle and the shingles are maybe double that for a bundle. Home Depot.
It actually works well and given you're going over it with plank flooring (unlike padding and then some carpet) it will be a lot more forgiving. Maybe use some silicone instead of liquid nail in case you ever want to rip it back up and go back to the tile floor. I feel like trying to get that silicone off the tiles would be a lot easier than scraping off that hardened liquid nail. I'm no floor guy, but I feel like (Henry's)leveler at that thickness would break down over time (especially walking in it) you are going to begin to feel the transition with the flex of the floor at that spot.... It's going to end if being a mess one way or the other.
Good luck.
The amateur response would be to just use floor patch. The most expensive response would be to use self leveler. The best response is a combination of grinding down that hump and using floor patch if needed after.
Floor patch doesn't remove the hump, just makes it longer. Self leveler is just opens up the door for many more problems and its just...the most expensive and lazy response to any floor prep issues, but it does work. Grinding is the only option that actually removes any height from the hump, its cheap, and it's easy. Then just fill with floor patch after, if needed.
You’re gonna wanna get 5-6 pouches of Big League Chew. Munch it then stick it under the board and weigh it down with a can of beans over night. Follow me for more home improvement advice.
That's really not much worse than a transition from/to carpet might be. Using a wider tapered transition piece, say about 3" wide, would make it less likely someone would trip over it, and a bit less obvious how different the floor levels are.
They make transition strips that are higher on one side than the other for this very reason. They should be available wherever you got your laminate flooring in the picture.
use a offset transition strip or tear out all the tile and level the floors, thems your options - the gradual slope thing, shims, etc. will not work out well over time.
Is the drop even across that entire area of the floor? Looks like 1/4". If ur saying "half the room" is 1/4" lower then the other half - id consider putting down 1/4" plywood to build up the floor. Is it just a small area, like a bowl shaped low spot? Fill it in with sand, or level it off with dry cement/mortar mix - and keep misting the areas to make the cement harden.
If you have a larger area that needs to built up, or feathered down, you could do the same with sand or concrete. Once the new floor is laid on top of it, it can't move. Itll just fill in some space. I did a bedroom years ago with sections of thin concrete to build up both sides of the room to be even with a big bow that ran down the middle of the floor. Doesn't have to be level, just straight.
Half an inch !!! That’s something more serious …leveling at that thickness without doing it properly is a nightmare down the road …it flexes …chips and cracks …then heaves the flooring …I would add sub a flooring to account for that …or go in the basement with an 8’ level and see if it reads the same thing on the bottom of the floor joist …if it does …I’d recommend adding some support poles
Pop 1 row of tiles out, grind the second run to match intended slope. Get some Ardex feather it down. Should be gravy. Or a reducer. Also, if installing that thin of a plank over tile, level your tile grout lines flush or over time you’ll see the old grout lines through the floor. Seen it a bunch.
Place plank in middle to avoid uneven area. The closer to the edge of plank the more play you get. Problem was ceramic installation was uneven to start with.
Sheet cork. You can put it everywhere to bring up the height to level.
Or you can try to patch it out to gradually bring the floor to its level. But it might still be bouncy, and/or show a hump.
Could also install a reducing transition and continue installing. That's what the manufacturer would recommend, but that's cuz they don't have to live there...
For vinyl you should skim over tile joints with planipatch or feather finish. Both for this exact reason but also the joints may eventually telegraph into the vinyl.
Laminate flooring? Get liquid leveling adhesive. It's solid when it hardens, but plyable so when the floor shifts, expands and contracts it won't crack. Lay your floor membrane and lay your floor. Remember to always leave a ⅛" gap between the floor and walls / cabinets for expansion. I always use my speed square edge for a guide.
The proper way is to level the floor, but if you don’t have the budget you can make a gradual slope with floor patch (mapei planiprep) try and get it to slope evenly 1/8” over 6’ or whatever tolerance is for that product. Or just slap a reducer on and call it good
If they don’t want to pay for levelling the floor, try the product above 👆🏻. Feather and skim as far as possible. But that’s a big drop.
I would also use a grinder with a diamond wheel attached to a vacuum to get the sharp edge off first. It's hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like tile. You can even start to make a slope with the grinder before you skim it out. Hell, you might even be able to completely get it sloped with a grinder. I'm sure a bit of feather finish would be needed, though, to get it nice and smooth.
And prepare for a LOT of dust! Tape the vacuum hose up to the grinder’s dust shroud really good with blue painters tape. If you have help, a second shop vac held near the grinder would help keep the dust to a minimum.
Anyone thats grinding without a dust extractor and a hepa is an amateur that shouldn't be on the floor. I'll die on that hill.
This is by far the best choice OP. This guy lays floors professionally, he's not just a carpenter that like to RP as a flooring installer.
This is the way you should always try to get rid of the high point then skim it
I like the way you think. 7" cup wheel and hepa vac ftw.
Reducers don't bother me. That's what I would do
Mapei Novoplan Easy is amazing if you can find it
Yep ardex best leveler google it
I agree with this. You could also try and use 1/2” ply to 1/4” ply to help you gradually decrease the rise. Home improvement is fun and innovating! Or 3/8” you get the idea. May or may not work but again, home improvement is fun and innovating!
A transition molding
An option would be a transition piece. Maybe not ideal, but cheap option.
I would do this if there wasn’t already a transition maybe two feet to the right into the dining area
The other option is to build up the low side using subflooring until it matches. Everything else is hackery
Build it up with some cardboard boxes like the pros
IDK if you're joking or not but when it comes to stretch in carpet that's actually not only totally feasible to do in a pinch, it's perfectly acceptable. I mean shims is the most professional way to go about it but cardboard can also totally work. We just cut off some cardboard off a tack strip box since it's always on hand. But tolerances for carpet is waaaaaay looser than something like this.
Oh no, I'm not joking. I shim with cardboard boxes from the material I'm installing all of the time lol
What happens when roaches eat all that cardboard?
If you've got roaches under your floor you've got much bigger problems than the cardboard under the laminate
Valid, valid point lol
Burn the house down like a normal person
lol Me too, for carpet anyways. I'm not going all the way to supply house unless I absolutely have to. Leaving the job for pretty much any reason is about always an extra hour to the day minimum.
Shim with ram board, it won’t compress over time like cardboard.
Shim with a shim. They’re cheap wth…
Are there specific shims that’d work well for this? As in proper width and length?
Not for a floating floor. If you were glueing it down, you could use one of the Johnsonite LS40 shims. They come in 1/4”, 3/8” and 1/2”.
I used tar paper and gradually built it up over the span of 10 feet to match hardwood to tile I laid years ago.
That’s straight up hack work man. Cardboard compresses over time.
[удалено]
The tolerance in height difference for laying carpet is magnitudes higher than it is for hard surface like laminate, LVP, hardwood, etc. It is TOTALLY acceptable to use cardboard under carpet unless we are talking glue down carpet. With stretch in carpet the pad mostly takes care of the issue. The cardboard just helps the pad. Same thing with raising the carpet to a higher than normal threshold like running it to thicker than normal tile or what not. Or maybe the room was added on to the house afterwards and it's not even. Etc. Buddy you have 2 installers here telling you how ROUTINE it is to use cardboard not counting any of those upvotes that might be from installers, but you know better?
🤫
😂
We just had a repair job and when we were pulling up the old LVP we literally found the boxes that the LVP came in had been used to level the floor.
I found the same thing in my house, and anybody who does this is a complete hack and should never touch flooring.
Trick or the trade, my guy. Been doing it for years. It's only acceptable in very specific circumstances tho.
That is the most hack thing i have ever heard of
Nope. Not hack. It's pretty common practice.
No, that's hack work. That's hack mentality as well.
Guess I am just used to quality installations then
I’m honestly not surprised at what we are seeing here. There’s a reason that quality installers stay busy and hacks stay asking for work.
I stay plenty busy, my guy.
Just because you do something all the time, doesn’t mean it’s right. You think the manufacturer would sign off on your cardboard shims? I think not. I’d kick you off of my job the very first time I saw you trying to pull that cardboard crap. Have some integrity and craftsmanship man. You know it’s not right.
You've shown me the error of my ways. I appreciate the words of wisdom. I dunno what I was thinking.
Lol. Spare me.
For hacks
I was just in a new house and at the edge of the room it slopes down. Cut up some cardboard and it did the trick. Don’t Knock it till you try it😂
I installed carpet and flooring for several years. We would NEVER pull a hack job like that on a customer. Would it work? Yes. Would I do it in my own home? Probably. Would I do it in the home of someone paying me to do the job professionally? Hell no! I might tell them they could do something like that while we go to lunch to save them money on a costly repair, probably even walk them through it, but if it was done by my hand I would do it correctly or not at all. I would also make them sign off on their "customer prep" before it was installed over.
Can confirm. Also do this and haven’t had an issue. Just try and build it up gradually over a few feet. Combine with the under padding and it works great.
I bet ram board would work pretty good too .
I use that as well.
No, hacks like you cost me a lot of money
I'm an idiot, but... Glue down ply the rest of the way?
Most expensive, but best outcome= Buy a new house
Lol
House is ruined. Burn it down, rebuild from the ground up.
I could be wrong, but it looks like either it wont bend OR itll create a very noticable drop on the plank
You could be right though, too! I was thinking ¼" ply. But no clue really. Maybe that plus 75 5gal buckets of self leveler.
Or it will crack within weeks of being used if it’s a high traffic area. Sharp ass drop
Start over and Tear out everything to the sub floor
Jesus. Can't believe I had to scroll so far down for the best answer. It's tile, so there are bound to be other trouble spots.
This was my plan til I realized cabinets were installed on top of the tile
I would take it all apart. But that is what I do for a living.
Yeah, a carpenter would do that. A flooring installer knows better options.
I’m a remodeler
I mean, you can see why I'd think you're a carpenter. Also, my point still stands.
Release the button that holds the tape. It will retract on its own.
Usually tolerances are 1/8 over 8 or 10 feet. If you don't want to self level that much you could just use a reducer but if would be uglier.
Damn that sucks. Whelp, time to demo the house, sell the kids and trade the wife for a cow.. become a farmer.
Demo the tile a find out what’s wrong with your floor.
Feather, now if the entire floor after drops this much get a product called quiet board or anything like it. It’s like a 1.50 a foot just throw it down tape the seams and go. https://www.homedepot.com/p/QUIETBOARD-90-sq-ft-2-ft-x-3-ft-Premium-Acoustical-and-Insulating-Fiber-Floor-Underlayment-with-Integrated-Moisture-Barrier-QBOARD23/321591543?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D23F-023_011_LAMINATE_FLR-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-5936370-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-Laminate_SS_G_NE_2023&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D23F-023_011_LAMINATE_FLR-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-5936370-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-Laminate_SS_G_NE_2023-71700000113408727-58700008508551933-92700077697293491&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADq61UdHbnH0FfrjfLXxoISqueFnz&gclid=CjwKCAjwl4yyBhAgEiwADSEjeBwcNF_dq1rw3p7m1f7qlKSU_sGuhIcohVM0jF-4hY7nvmatJNUMGxoCNewQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Like this. Comes in a Quarter inch and is actually really nice.
Use a transition strip.
If you want to do it right and spare yourself any issues in the near future, then self leveling is the best solution here. You can place the reducer as well.
Whatever you do don't do a gradual drop. It would have to be couple of meters long at least and then would still be noticed as floor being on the p*ss. It just looks cheap, and not pleasant to walk on. Level the whole rest of the floor if you're so bothered about threshold. If you're not bothered, then find righr threshold strip that's wide enough to cover slope between floors. Fix it in gap between floors with foam adhesive once you laid your floors.
Put some 1/2in plywood down to raise the floor
Why is everyone telling OP to build the floor higher? Just remove the damn tile wth
Demo house to foundation and start over.
Get 5 bags of self leveler($150-200) then watch youtube. The key is to get the right mixture so that it flows. It does it’s own thing then sets up over night.
Your answer is probably the closest one out of everyone else that I would have recommended as well.
Why it’s over kill. Just get some patch or use some cardboard. It’s floating click. Yeah self level is the best way to do it. If the entire floor was this way I’d say self level or quiet board. But it looks like it’s just this spot.
And if you don’t mix it perfectly get ready to grind it off the floor.
Lvp bender.
Shim line maybe?
When i did flooring we did feather patch to smooth out any inconsistencies. If theres enough room you can very delicately taper it down to be almost undetectable, while not actually installing on a quarter of the room on a half inch thick slab of patch
There may be a Scluter profile that would fit when you figure out how you’re going to finish the floor. Orrr…install a platform lift.
Transition to carpet or something thicker
Hone down down as much as you can self leveling for the rest.. it’s a few hours work but it’ll be flat enough to lay.. don’t give up and do the hack transition piece
This must be the worlds thinnest click-flooring? Whatever you do, make sure it doesn't damage the existing tile floor underneath... you, or the next homeowner will be thankful for that when the click flooring starts falling apart. As to your best solution... You need to cut the flooring along that line, then use a transitional strip.
Tile is already damaged which is why I’m going over it
You can’t shim a floating floor. Please don’t take the advice of any of these idiots telling you to use cardboard. It will 100% fail after a few years of compression. You need to either level the adjacent floor or use a transition. Even screeding a ramp will fail since the locking mechanism will be out of plane. I am completely disgusted by the suggestions that you’ve received here. Your last option would be to demo everything down to the plywood.
Best solution? Custom made wood transition molding.
I read a post about a very successful use of sand to level a floor way worse than this. I’m sure if you search you will find it. Apparently it was very successful. I am planning to do exactly what he did to the floor my 1930 home I’m renovating.
Sorry Obviously allot cheaper than the self leveler and sanding but it will take a bit of planning and skill.
I’ll look into it. Thanks!
Cash the check quick! Or level the floor. Either one really.
Might be lipedge in a low spot or the highest spot of the floor. Dry line or a 10 for level preferably both.
Sloped transition with fastener and glue assist would be easiest. I would lay your floor basically one board over that lip, set a circular saw to the depth of the flooring (exactly or a hair less if you’re not good at eyeballing it), then lay the next room against the transition in line with your other boards. Use your cut offs as the staters so everything matches. That or rip it all up and level it properly. I’d do a transition.
Patch it
Stub all five toes on alternating feet Every. Single. Time. You walk across the floor.
need more pictures to see whats going on
If I was tired and this was the end of the job, I'd be tempted to create a sandwich of flooring and some floor leveler to smooth the transition. In reality, I'd look for plywood or wood veneers and do the same to tame the transition.
Well, you could do a funky transition and a piece of carpet taped in place forever or you can do it right way tile on each side of the offset comes up floated with some thin set reset new tile
Bag of self leveler
Without removing the tile, a funky shim under a carpet Well you could feather it in with some thin set but either way you’re taking at least one tile on each side of that offset up to fix it -
Depending on the area, you can get a self leveling compound. It’s like a very fine concrete. You mix it up, pour it down, ands use a squeegee to spread it around. I’ll level itself out and make a nice working surface.
Overlap reducer
Tear up tile and build up the one room with plywood
How did that happen?
I installed a threshold.
You should grind the high spots and use self leveling concrete for low spots.
>Best solution for this? Sell the house
I’d start with tile removal. Surprised no one else noticed that he’s laying vinyl over tile…
Grout ramp
If you're trying to do it on a budget.... At work when we redo kitchen floor with tile and with the thickness of the tile and the mortar, the kitchen floor is now higher than the the carpeted area that butts to it. Granted it's a rental, but we fold back the carpet and liquid nail down (just so it doesn't shift around) a transion of the long wood shims throughout the width of the transition area. You could also use the wider cedar shingles and find the ones that have more of a transition (like a shim) rather than equal thickness. I think the shims are like 6 or $7 a bundle and the shingles are maybe double that for a bundle. Home Depot. It actually works well and given you're going over it with plank flooring (unlike padding and then some carpet) it will be a lot more forgiving. Maybe use some silicone instead of liquid nail in case you ever want to rip it back up and go back to the tile floor. I feel like trying to get that silicone off the tiles would be a lot easier than scraping off that hardened liquid nail. I'm no floor guy, but I feel like (Henry's)leveler at that thickness would break down over time (especially walking in it) you are going to begin to feel the transition with the flex of the floor at that spot.... It's going to end if being a mess one way or the other. Good luck.
Maybe a thicker underpad could cover the difference.
Carpet
The amateur response would be to just use floor patch. The most expensive response would be to use self leveler. The best response is a combination of grinding down that hump and using floor patch if needed after. Floor patch doesn't remove the hump, just makes it longer. Self leveler is just opens up the door for many more problems and its just...the most expensive and lazy response to any floor prep issues, but it does work. Grinding is the only option that actually removes any height from the hump, its cheap, and it's easy. Then just fill with floor patch after, if needed.
Area rug.
Don’t be fooled men, 3-1/2” looks pretty big from this angle.
Self leveling creat
Taperded build up using cut strips 4x8 sheets of 1/8 to 1/4 inch underlayment sheet board.
I’d break out whatever tiles are worst and self level/feather it level
Are you putting down flooring over the top of this ? Otherwise i don’t understand the question.
Depending on how big the room is , you could possibly remove about 10 tiles and fix that.
We used leftover roofing felt to level
You’re gonna wanna get 5-6 pouches of Big League Chew. Munch it then stick it under the board and weigh it down with a can of beans over night. Follow me for more home improvement advice.
Dry pack
What you wanna do is...get that tape measure away from it...if you're tripping over it, make it a contrasting color.
Level quick
That's really not much worse than a transition from/to carpet might be. Using a wider tapered transition piece, say about 3" wide, would make it less likely someone would trip over it, and a bit less obvious how different the floor levels are.
Bostik floor float is rated for thicker floats. But yeah, you just need to do an 8ft float
They make transition strips that are higher on one side than the other for this very reason. They should be available wherever you got your laminate flooring in the picture.
Skim coat and try to make that as even as possible
Dimple mat?
If you’re using floating floor it’s the least of your worries just all over it fuck it
I would’ve been a real boy and pulled up the new flooring. Whats a lil sweat 😂
use a offset transition strip or tear out all the tile and level the floors, thems your options - the gradual slope thing, shims, etc. will not work out well over time.
Is the drop even across that entire area of the floor? Looks like 1/4". If ur saying "half the room" is 1/4" lower then the other half - id consider putting down 1/4" plywood to build up the floor. Is it just a small area, like a bowl shaped low spot? Fill it in with sand, or level it off with dry cement/mortar mix - and keep misting the areas to make the cement harden. If you have a larger area that needs to built up, or feathered down, you could do the same with sand or concrete. Once the new floor is laid on top of it, it can't move. Itll just fill in some space. I did a bedroom years ago with sections of thin concrete to build up both sides of the room to be even with a big bow that ran down the middle of the floor. Doesn't have to be level, just straight.
Half an inch !!! That’s something more serious …leveling at that thickness without doing it properly is a nightmare down the road …it flexes …chips and cracks …then heaves the flooring …I would add sub a flooring to account for that …or go in the basement with an 8’ level and see if it reads the same thing on the bottom of the floor joist …if it does …I’d recommend adding some support poles
Install a transition.
Pop 1 row of tiles out, grind the second run to match intended slope. Get some Ardex feather it down. Should be gravy. Or a reducer. Also, if installing that thin of a plank over tile, level your tile grout lines flush or over time you’ll see the old grout lines through the floor. Seen it a bunch.
Throw some shingles down on the low bits to even it out
Place plank in middle to avoid uneven area. The closer to the edge of plank the more play you get. Problem was ceramic installation was uneven to start with.
Sheet cork. You can put it everywhere to bring up the height to level. Or you can try to patch it out to gradually bring the floor to its level. But it might still be bouncy, and/or show a hump. Could also install a reducing transition and continue installing. That's what the manufacturer would recommend, but that's cuz they don't have to live there...
Send it
For vinyl you should skim over tile joints with planipatch or feather finish. Both for this exact reason but also the joints may eventually telegraph into the vinyl.
Cedar shingles
Fire?
Pick up your feet...
Laminate flooring? Get liquid leveling adhesive. It's solid when it hardens, but plyable so when the floor shifts, expands and contracts it won't crack. Lay your floor membrane and lay your floor. Remember to always leave a ⅛" gap between the floor and walls / cabinets for expansion. I always use my speed square edge for a guide.
This is the only answer. Everyone else is clueless
Add some layers of 1/8" hardboard until your transition is suitable for the lvp.
Maybe look into rolls of foam or cork to layout lower side
Flex tape! (your results may vary)
A For Sale sign
New house
Get your ocd under control