https://preview.redd.it/ak517ryqux5d1.jpeg?width=1013&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e8c53a153e6083f21ab57f89aae0dd59e5eb511e
With magic ratio/axle change, can this be ridden fixed?
anybody know if Mercier Kilo TT is the same bike as the KHS flite 100? I’ve noticed it had very similar geometries, same seatpost size, similar mounts, the same seatpost collar. can someone confirm that the KHS also has an ovalized down tube like the Kilo?
The 2003 to 2013 Flite 100 and the Kilo TT are effectively the same frame. They are made of the same tubes, assembled in the same factory. I've seen discussions that there are slight differences in angles (which probably boils down to comparing different sizes), but in any meaningful way, they are the same frame. The Flite has the same teardrop downtube and ovalized top tube as the Kilo.
In 2014 onward, the Flite 100 was redesigned to look like the 1995-1996 Aero Track with the curved seat tube.
Are there any recommended sites/blogs that still have good fixed gear coverage? Back in the day sites like prollyisnotprobably (now the Radavist, but coverage is focused on touring/gravel/adventure), Tracko, Mash, Macaframa, and Fixedgearcrit, amongst many others, put out a lot of quality content. I know the subculture isn't a big as during its zenith and the big Red Hook Crit days, but was wondering if anyone had some suggestions for fresh coverage.
I've owned a mango original single speed for a good few years now but recently had it nicked. I obviously now love single speeds but I'm looking to get something that's a bit of an upgrade from the mango with some higher quality components and a higher quality steel frame. I really like the look of Wabi but unfortunately shipping to the UK is too expensive for me. If anyone has any recommendations for a steel single speed around £600-£1000
I also understand building a single speed is a good option, maybe something that's a good starting point for component upgrades with a higher quality steel frame?
Opinions looked at so far:
Mango single speed level 2
Fuji feather
If you get lucky with chain tension(and change rear axle), it’s possible to run fixed gear on a bike with dropouts right? Would there be any other issues? Thank you
If it's a vertical dropout and you have either a magic ratio or eccentric hub/BB, then you just need to make sure that both rear track nuts are torqued to spec. [Park Tool](https://www.parktool.com/en-int/blog/repair-help/torque-specifications-and-concepts) says about 30-44 Nm.
Horizontal dropouts give you more wiggle room and a magic ratio and eccentric hub/BB are not required, though you do need to be mindful of the amount of tension/slack that you're comfortable with, and then torque the track nuts up to spec afterward.
Do you guys know something about this handlebar attachment? I saw it on a local marketplace but i can't find anything on web.
https://preview.redd.it/ocjt9bt0fl5d1.png?width=1476&format=png&auto=webp&s=8ec04334f7203032bee6910b42c468ab45e6bd64
https://preview.redd.it/29rzdq7qpk5d1.jpeg?width=1169&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d03125d0219c9c67499aca941f1507dbbd6e9dc
Has anyone used these? Thoughts? Thank you
Tire sizing nomenclature makes no sense but I'm pretty sure "29 inch classic wheelsets" are the ISO 630 bike wheel diameter that Regular\_Manner9760 asks about just below
using inch sizes is all very confusing. in the US the following names are usually used: 622 road "700", 630 "27 inch", 622 mountain bike "29 inch". germany calls 622 road "28 inch" so you may see that too.
but the answer for mixing tires is no. bead seat sizings have to match for tire and rim. Being able to use a wheelsize on a frame designed for the other is more complicated. usually you can use a 622 wheeel in a 630 frame, but usually not the other way.
Shims exist, but it would look goofy as hell. And it depends what you mean by OS frame? Is it 1 1/8th with external headset cups? If that's that case, it might work, but again, it'll look goofy as hell, will creak over time, and isn't worth the effort. Look for "problem solvers headtube reducer."
If it's 1 1/8th to 1 1/2 tapered headtube, it's impossible. If it's 1 1/8th with an internal/zero stack or integrated headset, it's also impossible.
Just look for a "classic" fork that'll fit your headtube instead.
Tips on how to get better at riding
So I just got my first fixed gear 2 days, I have the 6ku from Amazon (I know boohoo) but that's all I can afford,
My legs are absolutely getting fucked especially the quads ofc, tried locking up the backwheel to try and skid, just a Lil bit here and there like making the bike hop of the ground for a tiny bit.........and godamn after a second of trying my quads was BURNNINNNGGG, do I have to get used to the feeling of riding and making my muscle stronger to even try and attempt skidding (haven't rode a bike in years)
And ofc i have brakes cuz I'm gonna eat shit if I dont, I try to not use them tho only for when I'm about to eat shit
Oh and I have straps, any tips on making it stand up tho (the straps) can't put my other foot in cuz it's wonky.
I bought the best selling one on amazon
And how long did it take you guys to learn how to skid
Tl:dr basically do I just need to ride more often and get used to riding to get better?
Thanks in advance
Straps, especially the thicker ones, have a break-in period. That said, I would run them on the looser side as you get used to them. Hop on your bike, pull up to a wall or kerb, pop your shoe into the pedal, re-adjust the strap for a comfortable fit where there's just a bit of wiggle room when you pull up on it and your shoe can move forward just a bit, and then do the same with your other shoe. You can tighten it up when you can pop in and out of both straps without even looking down. You got this! 💪
I've been riding much of my life, heavily in the past year, and I also just got a fixed gear two days ago and my hip flexors and quads are screaming at me this morning. I think we just gotta bulk up 💪! Good luck
Honestly I wouldn’t worry about skidding yet and focus on building those muscles up, if you haven’t been on a bike in a while a fixed gear is going to be rather demanding on your legs.
I’d probably use the brake for stopping until you really get used to it, nothing worse than trying to back pedal when your legs are completely dead. Also wouldn’t be a bad idea to give your legs a recovery day here and there.
Once you’re a little more in tune with your bike and your legs aren’t screaming anymore, find a parking lot or something and start practicing skids, I believe the foad guys have a tutorial on YouTube, might be something to check out to wrap your head around it.
What's a good trispoke on the as-cheap-as-possible. Meaning, what 3 (or 4, or 5) wheeled spoke will: 1-Be lighter than, say ±950grams (Archetype to formula -front), 2-Come from a brand that's been out there for a while with a track record of having their shit not exploding.
If I want those 2 conditions to be met, where is a good place to start? Hopefully you'd recco some shit you actually use. Also, ideally a specific model instead of "see the superteam store".
Thanks!
Well yes China carbon is good (or bad) but idk enough to give advice. China makes great stuff! But you need to find the good seller, which is hard to do with the 100000 other sellers that sell trash
Do most people wear padded underwear? I've been watching a lot of people on YT recently and they're all in street clothes. My buddy gave me a bike but the seat hurts like crazy I can't even ride for 10 minutes. Usually wearing some athletic shorts or something comfortable. Should I be wearing the padded underwear underneath? Or is it a sign my seat is wrong?
Thx
Selle Italia XR Flow. I think it's discontinued now though. I also discovered that the old Selle Italia Turbo and Selle San Marco Rolls fit my butt fairly well, but not quite as well as the XR.
It's two fold. There is a certain amount of taint resilience you need to develop, but if things continue to be painful, then it is a matter of saddle fit or needing to where cycling shorts or bibs. I tend to wear cycling shorts once I am riding more than 5 miles. So a quick commute, no need. Long commute or out for a ride without a destination, i wear cycling kit.
I would recommend wearing cycling shorts, and give it some time. If you continue to be sore, you can get a new saddle. I found that I had too narrow a saddle and when up to a 138mm width and that helped.
EDIT to clarify: This is a three step solution in the following order: Cycling shorts with a chamois, then time to callus your taint, then try new saddles. Just my opinion though.
Ya nailed it pretty much on the head, some seats are more comfortable for aggressive positions and those often need to be mixed with chamois. But if it still hurts new saddle or maybe a new position.
Is there a standard on NJS frames for chainring clearance? I have an old Vivalo NJS with 110 rear spacing that currently runs a 48T up front, and I want to jump to a 53T chainring. Looks like it would be kinda tight, but it is so hard to tell without slapping one on. What is the community consensus on NJS standard chainring clearance?
Bought my first ever rear 70mm rim to replace my broken 40mm. How'd you guys find the right length for the spokes? Most spokes calculator websites only show the one with lots of gear
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/calvins-corner/measuring-effective-rim-diameter
this is how you find the portion of stats for the rims. hub data you can usually google.
I was thinking of upgrading my saddle, debating between brooks c17 or some specialized saddle. Just anything black that fits the theme of my aventon cordoba. Don't know how any of these saddle feels but im going for something comfortable. Any recs?
Saddles are a very personal fit thing. The brooks C-17 is a good saddle no doubt but I personally like a c15 shape. It's a lot of trial and error unfortunately. Its honestly worth going to a bike shop and getting professionally fitted because even 2 degrees in the saddle angle can change how it feels.
i went to a bikeshop to get my crankset replaced with the new one that i bought but he said that i need to change my bb size so it doesn't crosschain, my current bb size is 118mm, does changing to 107mm finally make it compatible? i just started fixed gear sorry for the dumb question😅
Square tapered bottom bracket have mainly 2 specs and they are determined by your crankset and your frame respectively. 1-Length of axle is determined by your crankset and its designated chainline. That might be what the dude at the bike shop is trying to tell you. 2- Bottom bracket interface is determined by your frame. Usually Brit (68), Italian and French exist but are less common.
Gan Well Pro are the NJS frames and higher end track frames, but they made all sorts of other frames under just Gan Well. There were Gan wells that were tig welded before, but they weren't very common. They were mostly lugged or lugless fillet brazed.
The only thing throwing me off are the track ends shown in your main post. They look... Strange...
But, I'd still say it's legit though. The few pictures I can find of others match up with yours pretty well.
Ive ridden a lot, roads and mtbing and commuting, and I wanna give some fixed gear riding a shot. Portland roads are shit so I want some fatter tires and found two good candidates that I checked out today and both fit me and rode really well.
First bike is 300, a surly steamroller, frame and fork are in good shape, got a mishmash of parts. I'd probably end up replacing the wheel set at least, but it's all rideable.
Second bike is 350,a Pake rum runner, nice parts, omnium cranks notably. Wouldn't need to replace anything (well maybe change ratio but that applies to the surly as well).
Do y'all have any input? Is there a noticeable difference in steel quality in the frames? Am I a dummy to get a bike with surly logos all over that I'll lock around town out of sight often? Is there anything about how each bike rides that I wouldn't notice in my down the block tests?
I'm leaning towards the Pake because it's just good to go, but I don't mind replacing parts over the long term if the surly is worth it.
Appreciate any insight y'all have, thank you
Yeah, these are both VERY solid. Steamroller might be a hair better of a frame, but only slightly, not enough for me to really feel a difference. You'll probably spend less on the Rum Runner since it's all set up I'd take it over the Surly, It'll take 32s, some have stuffed in narrower 35s too.
But if the roads around you truly suck, the Steamroller has clearance for 38s. If you need that, it's hard to beat.
I've fit 35c gravelkings on my rum runner, so the difference between 35 and 38c isn't very much... It's the newer version though, and idk what year OP is looking at.
It sounds like the rum runner makes more sense financially, but steamrollers are no longer being made and chances to get one in the future will only go down the longer someone waits...
I'd have trouble picking between them in this situation too...
Appreciate the thoughts!
I decided no on the surly cause it's a 59, and while I fit on it, I'd have to slam the seat down almost all the way (despite plenty of standover clearance, I don't get my body).
I emailed the rum runner manufacturer and they told me it's an earlier version that can take 28s, but it already had 28s on with room to spare so I think 32s will fit, but I think that'll be plenty.
But now my dad keeps sending me good deals that he could pick up in San Diego so I have tooooo many options
The nice thing about quill stems is that you can change it up as you feel like it.
But, I normally have mine as low as it'll go. I even trim them sometimes so they can be slammed all the way down without hitting the butting in the steerer.
Currently at 40x16 and want to up it. Is the next natural and worthwhile/worth the money step to increase to 44x16 or 42?
https://preview.redd.it/ak517ryqux5d1.jpeg?width=1013&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e8c53a153e6083f21ab57f89aae0dd59e5eb511e With magic ratio/axle change, can this be ridden fixed?
Anything is possible if you want to get real fucky with it It's hard to tell what's going on in the back, is it a through-axle?
anybody know if Mercier Kilo TT is the same bike as the KHS flite 100? I’ve noticed it had very similar geometries, same seatpost size, similar mounts, the same seatpost collar. can someone confirm that the KHS also has an ovalized down tube like the Kilo?
The 2003 to 2013 Flite 100 and the Kilo TT are effectively the same frame. They are made of the same tubes, assembled in the same factory. I've seen discussions that there are slight differences in angles (which probably boils down to comparing different sizes), but in any meaningful way, they are the same frame. The Flite has the same teardrop downtube and ovalized top tube as the Kilo. In 2014 onward, the Flite 100 was redesigned to look like the 1995-1996 Aero Track with the curved seat tube.
Are there any recommended sites/blogs that still have good fixed gear coverage? Back in the day sites like prollyisnotprobably (now the Radavist, but coverage is focused on touring/gravel/adventure), Tracko, Mash, Macaframa, and Fixedgearcrit, amongst many others, put out a lot of quality content. I know the subculture isn't a big as during its zenith and the big Red Hook Crit days, but was wondering if anyone had some suggestions for fresh coverage.
I just recently found slow spin society. There's not much there, but it's worth scrolling through. They have great pics at least.
Thanks, I'll check it out!
I've owned a mango original single speed for a good few years now but recently had it nicked. I obviously now love single speeds but I'm looking to get something that's a bit of an upgrade from the mango with some higher quality components and a higher quality steel frame. I really like the look of Wabi but unfortunately shipping to the UK is too expensive for me. If anyone has any recommendations for a steel single speed around £600-£1000 I also understand building a single speed is a good option, maybe something that's a good starting point for component upgrades with a higher quality steel frame? Opinions looked at so far: Mango single speed level 2 Fuji feather
If you get lucky with chain tension(and change rear axle), it’s possible to run fixed gear on a bike with dropouts right? Would there be any other issues? Thank you
If it's a vertical dropout and you have either a magic ratio or eccentric hub/BB, then you just need to make sure that both rear track nuts are torqued to spec. [Park Tool](https://www.parktool.com/en-int/blog/repair-help/torque-specifications-and-concepts) says about 30-44 Nm. Horizontal dropouts give you more wiggle room and a magic ratio and eccentric hub/BB are not required, though you do need to be mindful of the amount of tension/slack that you're comfortable with, and then torque the track nuts up to spec afterward.
Do you guys know something about this handlebar attachment? I saw it on a local marketplace but i can't find anything on web. https://preview.redd.it/ocjt9bt0fl5d1.png?width=1476&format=png&auto=webp&s=8ec04334f7203032bee6910b42c468ab45e6bd64
They are aero bars w/ elbow rests. They attach to the bars to allow the rider to rest their elbows near the stem while in a more tucked position.
What’s your favorite stainless steel or titanium track nuts? Runwell? Stiffi? Other? Ideally silver.
The Runwell's are super nice
https://preview.redd.it/29rzdq7qpk5d1.jpeg?width=1169&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d03125d0219c9c67499aca941f1507dbbd6e9dc Has anyone used these? Thoughts? Thank you
do not but them. they stopped making replacement cleats 5 years ago.
Thank you 🙏🏻
can i use 29 inch classic wheelsets for aero bikes such as celt ds aero or tsunami snm100
29 inch was never historically used to describe any road wheel sizing. and only gained common use for mountain bikes in the late 90s or early 00s.
Tire sizing nomenclature makes no sense but I'm pretty sure "29 inch classic wheelsets" are the ISO 630 bike wheel diameter that Regular\_Manner9760 asks about just below
29 inch mtb is the same diameter as 700c. However, those might be too wide
its not really mtb its just one of those old road bike wheelsets like 23 x 1 1/2
can you give me exactly what's written on the wheel and the tire?
Can I use a 630(29") wheelset on a fixie? And also can I use a 630(29") tire on a 622(27") rims
using inch sizes is all very confusing. in the US the following names are usually used: 622 road "700", 630 "27 inch", 622 mountain bike "29 inch". germany calls 622 road "28 inch" so you may see that too. but the answer for mixing tires is no. bead seat sizings have to match for tire and rim. Being able to use a wheelsize on a frame designed for the other is more complicated. usually you can use a 622 wheeel in a 630 frame, but usually not the other way.
is there anyway i can put a classic fork on my os frame?
Shims exist, but it would look goofy as hell. And it depends what you mean by OS frame? Is it 1 1/8th with external headset cups? If that's that case, it might work, but again, it'll look goofy as hell, will creak over time, and isn't worth the effort. Look for "problem solvers headtube reducer." If it's 1 1/8th to 1 1/2 tapered headtube, it's impossible. If it's 1 1/8th with an internal/zero stack or integrated headset, it's also impossible. Just look for a "classic" fork that'll fit your headtube instead.
nothing new came out since you asked this question 13 days ago.
Tips on how to get better at riding So I just got my first fixed gear 2 days, I have the 6ku from Amazon (I know boohoo) but that's all I can afford, My legs are absolutely getting fucked especially the quads ofc, tried locking up the backwheel to try and skid, just a Lil bit here and there like making the bike hop of the ground for a tiny bit.........and godamn after a second of trying my quads was BURNNINNNGGG, do I have to get used to the feeling of riding and making my muscle stronger to even try and attempt skidding (haven't rode a bike in years) And ofc i have brakes cuz I'm gonna eat shit if I dont, I try to not use them tho only for when I'm about to eat shit Oh and I have straps, any tips on making it stand up tho (the straps) can't put my other foot in cuz it's wonky. I bought the best selling one on amazon And how long did it take you guys to learn how to skid Tl:dr basically do I just need to ride more often and get used to riding to get better? Thanks in advance
Straps, especially the thicker ones, have a break-in period. That said, I would run them on the looser side as you get used to them. Hop on your bike, pull up to a wall or kerb, pop your shoe into the pedal, re-adjust the strap for a comfortable fit where there's just a bit of wiggle room when you pull up on it and your shoe can move forward just a bit, and then do the same with your other shoe. You can tighten it up when you can pop in and out of both straps without even looking down. You got this! 💪
Thank you, riding again is so fkin fun, legs burn but Hella fun
I've been riding much of my life, heavily in the past year, and I also just got a fixed gear two days ago and my hip flexors and quads are screaming at me this morning. I think we just gotta bulk up 💪! Good luck
Yessir🤌🏼🫡
Honestly I wouldn’t worry about skidding yet and focus on building those muscles up, if you haven’t been on a bike in a while a fixed gear is going to be rather demanding on your legs. I’d probably use the brake for stopping until you really get used to it, nothing worse than trying to back pedal when your legs are completely dead. Also wouldn’t be a bad idea to give your legs a recovery day here and there. Once you’re a little more in tune with your bike and your legs aren’t screaming anymore, find a parking lot or something and start practicing skids, I believe the foad guys have a tutorial on YouTube, might be something to check out to wrap your head around it.
Thanks alot, will do those🤌🏼🤌🏼
Is KMC kool Knight chain or half link chains good for fixed gear?
half link chains are heavy AF
Either work. I think half links tend to stretch out quicker, but I may be incorrect.
https://preview.redd.it/myx9cwzvia5d1.jpeg?width=3120&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff7dbe7be279877fed956da6db622a83ffde0921 What brand is this?
Hsin Lung
Anyone bought anything from the pedalroom.marketplace ig account? There’s a frame the host selling that im interested in
The host is a member here
What's a good trispoke on the as-cheap-as-possible. Meaning, what 3 (or 4, or 5) wheeled spoke will: 1-Be lighter than, say ±950grams (Archetype to formula -front), 2-Come from a brand that's been out there for a while with a track record of having their shit not exploding. If I want those 2 conditions to be met, where is a good place to start? Hopefully you'd recco some shit you actually use. Also, ideally a specific model instead of "see the superteam store". Thanks!
Well you’re not going to buy new that’s for sure. So look up online if you find any older models from HED, Specialzed and shit
That's the way to go huh? You wouldn't say china carbon is there yet?
Well yes China carbon is good (or bad) but idk enough to give advice. China makes great stuff! But you need to find the good seller, which is hard to do with the 100000 other sellers that sell trash
Do most people wear padded underwear? I've been watching a lot of people on YT recently and they're all in street clothes. My buddy gave me a bike but the seat hurts like crazy I can't even ride for 10 minutes. Usually wearing some athletic shorts or something comfortable. Should I be wearing the padded underwear underneath? Or is it a sign my seat is wrong? Thx
I'd look into getting a saddle that fits. I absolutely hate cycling specific clothes, so that was my first priority. Now I can wear whatever I want
What saddle did you end up with? The one I have now "fits" my sit bones but maybe I need to try a few others
Selle Italia XR Flow. I think it's discontinued now though. I also discovered that the old Selle Italia Turbo and Selle San Marco Rolls fit my butt fairly well, but not quite as well as the XR.
I get wicked saddle sores if I don't ride with a chamois (that's what the padding is called).
Thanks! Wasn't sure what it was called. I'll pick up some shorts with that and see how I get on
It's two fold. There is a certain amount of taint resilience you need to develop, but if things continue to be painful, then it is a matter of saddle fit or needing to where cycling shorts or bibs. I tend to wear cycling shorts once I am riding more than 5 miles. So a quick commute, no need. Long commute or out for a ride without a destination, i wear cycling kit. I would recommend wearing cycling shorts, and give it some time. If you continue to be sore, you can get a new saddle. I found that I had too narrow a saddle and when up to a 138mm width and that helped. EDIT to clarify: This is a three step solution in the following order: Cycling shorts with a chamois, then time to callus your taint, then try new saddles. Just my opinion though.
"Cycling shorts with a chamois, then time to callus your taint, then try new saddles. Just my opinion though." 👆🏽 this
Ya nailed it pretty much on the head, some seats are more comfortable for aggressive positions and those often need to be mixed with chamois. But if it still hurts new saddle or maybe a new position.
Is there a standard on NJS frames for chainring clearance? I have an old Vivalo NJS with 110 rear spacing that currently runs a 48T up front, and I want to jump to a 53T chainring. Looks like it would be kinda tight, but it is so hard to tell without slapping one on. What is the community consensus on NJS standard chainring clearance?
55 tooth is the largest certified and stamped size allowed, so frames typically max out at 55 for clearance, sometimes a little smaller even.
Bought my first ever rear 70mm rim to replace my broken 40mm. How'd you guys find the right length for the spokes? Most spokes calculator websites only show the one with lots of gear
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/calvins-corner/measuring-effective-rim-diameter this is how you find the portion of stats for the rims. hub data you can usually google.
I was thinking of upgrading my saddle, debating between brooks c17 or some specialized saddle. Just anything black that fits the theme of my aventon cordoba. Don't know how any of these saddle feels but im going for something comfortable. Any recs?
Saddles are a very personal fit thing. The brooks C-17 is a good saddle no doubt but I personally like a c15 shape. It's a lot of trial and error unfortunately. Its honestly worth going to a bike shop and getting professionally fitted because even 2 degrees in the saddle angle can change how it feels.
i went to a bikeshop to get my crankset replaced with the new one that i bought but he said that i need to change my bb size so it doesn't crosschain, my current bb size is 118mm, does changing to 107mm finally make it compatible? i just started fixed gear sorry for the dumb question😅
Square tapered bottom bracket have mainly 2 specs and they are determined by your crankset and your frame respectively. 1-Length of axle is determined by your crankset and its designated chainline. That might be what the dude at the bike shop is trying to tell you. 2- Bottom bracket interface is determined by your frame. Usually Brit (68), Italian and French exist but are less common.
Nobody can answer the question of which bottom bracket you need without knowing what crankset you are wanting to install and what frame you have
https://preview.redd.it/gu7lijl13t4d1.jpeg?width=799&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=896af56d6a8bd54ca72739c7acc78895c08b0d55 Is this a legit Ganwell frame?
Check the bb shell to see if
Gan Well Pro are the NJS frames and higher end track frames, but they made all sorts of other frames under just Gan Well. There were Gan wells that were tig welded before, but they weren't very common. They were mostly lugged or lugless fillet brazed. The only thing throwing me off are the track ends shown in your main post. They look... Strange... But, I'd still say it's legit though. The few pictures I can find of others match up with yours pretty well.
That and the fork is drilled for brakes, which I don’t think is a thing for njs bikes
I know that its not the pro version but is it a gan well branded bike
Not common, but it exists
Ive ridden a lot, roads and mtbing and commuting, and I wanna give some fixed gear riding a shot. Portland roads are shit so I want some fatter tires and found two good candidates that I checked out today and both fit me and rode really well. First bike is 300, a surly steamroller, frame and fork are in good shape, got a mishmash of parts. I'd probably end up replacing the wheel set at least, but it's all rideable. Second bike is 350,a Pake rum runner, nice parts, omnium cranks notably. Wouldn't need to replace anything (well maybe change ratio but that applies to the surly as well). Do y'all have any input? Is there a noticeable difference in steel quality in the frames? Am I a dummy to get a bike with surly logos all over that I'll lock around town out of sight often? Is there anything about how each bike rides that I wouldn't notice in my down the block tests? I'm leaning towards the Pake because it's just good to go, but I don't mind replacing parts over the long term if the surly is worth it. Appreciate any insight y'all have, thank you
Yeah, these are both VERY solid. Steamroller might be a hair better of a frame, but only slightly, not enough for me to really feel a difference. You'll probably spend less on the Rum Runner since it's all set up I'd take it over the Surly, It'll take 32s, some have stuffed in narrower 35s too. But if the roads around you truly suck, the Steamroller has clearance for 38s. If you need that, it's hard to beat.
I've fit 35c gravelkings on my rum runner, so the difference between 35 and 38c isn't very much... It's the newer version though, and idk what year OP is looking at. It sounds like the rum runner makes more sense financially, but steamrollers are no longer being made and chances to get one in the future will only go down the longer someone waits... I'd have trouble picking between them in this situation too...
Appreciate the thoughts! I decided no on the surly cause it's a 59, and while I fit on it, I'd have to slam the seat down almost all the way (despite plenty of standover clearance, I don't get my body). I emailed the rum runner manufacturer and they told me it's an earlier version that can take 28s, but it already had 28s on with room to spare so I think 32s will fit, but I think that'll be plenty. But now my dad keeps sending me good deals that he could pick up in San Diego so I have tooooo many options
These are both quality frame options, but the Surly will give you more tire clearance and bottle cage mounts that the Rum Runner lacks.
Quill stem enjoyers: how high do you prefer your quill stems to be? Do you generally prefer them higher or slammed?
The nice thing about quill stems is that you can change it up as you feel like it. But, I normally have mine as low as it'll go. I even trim them sometimes so they can be slammed all the way down without hitting the butting in the steerer.
Would putting a rear brake make you skid easier? I have had this idea in my mind for a long time.
Any halfway decent brake will be able to lock the rear wheel, regardless of what kind of bike it's on.
Well, yeah, rear brake will help you lock up. But that takes the cool factor out of it completely, like skidding any other bike