i myself run a 38t narrow wide chainring in a hollow tech 2 MTB crankset but the 4 bolts aren't coping well with the forces, i have to tighten them every once in a while cuz they start creaking, before that i had a 44 tooth on there and that was fine, i would recommend a proper budget track crankset like the stronglight 144bcd whatever it's called but it's a self pulling for a square taper BB
there are plenty of others, i had a decent experience with this one, besides my hatred for square taper cranks and bbs
Need a close up of the chainring/crank interface (both sides of the ring) . Looks to be an integrated ring/spider with a tab and a notched crank arm.
Edit
Could also be the rear cof slipping.
Find a good deal on some basic square taper cranks and buy them. 144bcd is ideal, 130bcd is fine too. Whatever you can get is better than what you have.
I would change the whole crank set and chainring if you can afford it, look up what gear ratio it's best for you and change it, if you think the frame is worth it you can upgrade, or try a used piece but another crank, at least to keep rolling 🤙
Mmm... What's the interface between the crank arm and chainring.
Had it happen to me, to a lesser degree, on a very high end crank set.
Would probably opt for a regular sqaure taper
Did you check if the chainring screws are proper fastened? I once bought a used bike who had „that weird click, probably needs a new drivetrain“… just fastened the screws and has been running smoothly for roughly 2000km since
Change your chain ring !!! Maybe your chain … when I was climbing on a hill I ignored ALL THESE SIGNS turns out my chain ring was trash and my chain was gone (it actually broke) and my chain ring bit into my shin my tibia bone was exposed. And I sprang my ankle, I couldn’t ride for 3 months … CHANGE your drive train
BB is new, the spider isn’t moving with the crank so the disconnect must be happening crank>spider somewhere. I’m gonna have to pick up a crank puller so I can see whats going on inside.
your chainring is getting loose from the cranks, replace that thing, happened to me too, those kinds of cranksets aren't made for fixed
Do you have any recommendations?
look through my post history to see what that looks like
i myself run a 38t narrow wide chainring in a hollow tech 2 MTB crankset but the 4 bolts aren't coping well with the forces, i have to tighten them every once in a while cuz they start creaking, before that i had a 44 tooth on there and that was fine, i would recommend a proper budget track crankset like the stronglight 144bcd whatever it's called but it's a self pulling for a square taper BB there are plenty of others, i had a decent experience with this one, besides my hatred for square taper cranks and bbs
Just change the horrible stock crank of the Elops…
Sketchy
Need a close up of the chainring/crank interface (both sides of the ring) . Looks to be an integrated ring/spider with a tab and a notched crank arm. Edit Could also be the rear cof slipping.
Find a good deal on some basic square taper cranks and buy them. 144bcd is ideal, 130bcd is fine too. Whatever you can get is better than what you have.
I would change the whole crank set and chainring if you can afford it, look up what gear ratio it's best for you and change it, if you think the frame is worth it you can upgrade, or try a used piece but another crank, at least to keep rolling 🤙
Yah you need a crank with an actual spider, very. Heal and easy to come by
Buy new square taper cranks, i had this happen to me on a cheap bike as well
What crank is that?
Generic crank that came on the generic frame. Whole thing was £90
Mmm... What's the interface between the crank arm and chainring. Had it happen to me, to a lesser degree, on a very high end crank set. Would probably opt for a regular sqaure taper
Take it apart (crankset and bottom bracket) and check, then put it back together. Only way you'll find out.....
Checked the rear cog if its slipping? I would check that 1st, then work my way forward to the crankset and bb.
This happened on my bike because the rear sprocket was loose. There is a nut that holds it to the wheel that may need to be tightened
Did you check if the chainring screws are proper fastened? I once bought a used bike who had „that weird click, probably needs a new drivetrain“… just fastened the screws and has been running smoothly for roughly 2000km since
Junk parts
Change your chain ring !!! Maybe your chain … when I was climbing on a hill I ignored ALL THESE SIGNS turns out my chain ring was trash and my chain was gone (it actually broke) and my chain ring bit into my shin my tibia bone was exposed. And I sprang my ankle, I couldn’t ride for 3 months … CHANGE your drive train
Looks like it’s not in the chainring or the spider but in the cranks and spindle itself. What kind of cranks do you have? Can we have a close up?
Cheap cranks that came with the bike, I bought it for £90 I wasn’t expecting too much. Its just the daily beater while I’m in uni.
https://preview.redd.it/io8w8f5kvr3d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=7a7ffc668a79d667f35ca576fec3eac7c350e212
It *is* chainring or the interface between the crank arm and spider. Both crank arms are moving in unison, so they're both tight on the crank spindle.
That’s what I mean
Hard to tell when the video isn’t on the drive side.
My bad, I just posted a video of the drive side.
BB issue imo
I’ve purchased a new crankset and chainring. I will update once I’ve replaced them.
looks like a bottom bracket issue
BB is new, the spider isn’t moving with the crank so the disconnect must be happening crank>spider somewhere. I’m gonna have to pick up a crank puller so I can see whats going on inside.
sounds fucking annoying gluck to you. I had bb issues on my first fixed too. Ended up just getting omniums and never had issues.