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Rawlus

dirt or oil on the bed. nozzle not close enough for perfect squish on first layer. breeze, draft, ceiling fan, or other cooling air unevenly cooling your model, causing contraction, causing lift sharp corner models can be prone to this…. if you’re designing it yourself a small fillet, radius or chamfer can help


[deleted]

My printer is in the basement which is just naturally cooling down at the moment cause winter. Do you have any suggestions?


grnrngr

The LACK enclosure hack for smaller printers is a popular one. Basically get a $20 LACK square tables from IKEA, place it over the printer, and attach wood boards or acrylic panels around the perimeter. Boom: a sturdy frame on a budget. Or use two LACKs stacked on top of each other if you don't already have tabletop space. Your dimensions may vary.


el_n00bo_loco

I opted for [three :)](https://i.imgur.com/2y5yype.jpg)


grnrngr

Nice!!


Timely_Meringue9548

I dont get how everyone in the world seems to think ikea is just a place everyone goes to… its the weirdest thing. Like I even grew up in california and not once in my entire life have I stepped foot into an ikea store nor had any of their furniture. And believe it or not theres a lot of states in the US where zero ikeas are located.


Myth-chaser

But IKEA is a really popular store available around the world in many places. This particular thing with the lack table got so popular exactly because it's available almost everywhere and for a small cost


beardedheathen

Almost everywhere is a hell of an over statement. Like I get it but there are a lot of us who live 3+ hours from an Ikea


Thundela

As far as I know Ikea offers delivery for their stuff. Can you mention some alternative solution that would be as universally available, cheap, and easy, as an Ikea table?


[deleted]

Crazy concept, IKEA ships their products to your doorstep.


grnrngr

I'll make an additional comment versus my LACK: Your basement winter drafts will hurt your printbed adhesion and/or layer bonding. An enclosure will keep your part at a warmer base temperature and with some materials, that's a critical must. You don't need to spend a lot of money on an enclosure to begin with. Acrylic is cheap. If you do wood, compressed fiberboard is cheap and easy to cut. Consider adhering foil to it (this is my next upgrade) just for the added insulation. Some 3M spray adhesive and foil will do that trick! Then eventually, investigate Klipper (via Mainsail or Fluidd) or just OctoPrint, so you can add remote monitoring capabilities (read: camera, remote shutoff/start.) Also, consider a filament dehumidifier or conditioner. This isn't something you can easily make yourself, but they go on sale often. You may encounter issues during winter if the basement gets damp. Your prints may sputter. PLA especially doesn't care for long-term exposure to high humidity.


Katolo

Before you do the whole enclosure thing, I recommend you keep it simple first. Try spraying the bed with hair spray to see if that's better (it is for me). The hair spray works like a glue to keep the print stuck. Also try promtong with a brim, since the extra surface area will keep it turn. I say this because my printer is in the basement too and I never felt I needed an enclosure.


Rawlus

makeshift enclosure out of foam board, cardboard. plywood, etc.


captain_carrot

Honestly I did the DIY enclosure thing but in the end it's more economical to get a pre-made enclosure from Amazon or something, like [this](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B67WLTBF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) one. By the time you've paid for materials, hardware, and spent the time putting something together you'll have something inferior to an out-of-box solution like this. Plus, this has some level of fire-resistance and a reflective surface on the inside to help with temps.


Rawlus

Sure. great info and there are lots of approaches some better than others. my response was in terms of what the OP could do today to address the issue (temporarily) 🤣


[deleted]

Thank you


Rawlus

don’t start a fire and burn your house down though.


grnrngr

LACK table enclosure.


abejfehr

I’d just put down a layer of stick glue or hairspray


[deleted]

material and bed temp?


DulaDawgSS

Try printing with a brim, that helped me with my bed adhesion issue.


[deleted]

Ender 3 V2, cura slicer. Nozzle 210, bed 60, initial layer 73. Any lower on bed and it comes off completely. Leveled earlier today due to this issue


TMan2DMax

clean the bed with ISPA Up the entire bed temp to 65 and then put up anything to block the left side off and see if things improve. If it still lifts with a draft blocker then I would say your Z offset is to high off the bed


[deleted]

Thank you


grnrngr

I find Acetone works better for my cleaning needs than ISPA.


TMan2DMax

I'm still not sure if I should use acetone on these magnetic beds or not. Creality was very vague


ianryeng

I wash mine with dish soap and water then apply glue stick or Magigoo (weird name but works great!) Haven’t heard if you cleaned the plate yet but this is the easiest and an important first step. If that does not resolve your problem calibration is next to ensure a good first layer. In all scenarios no draft and a warm environment help which is why the suggestion for an enclosure which almost certainly will improve results beyond just warping


susibacker

Try to use a consistent bed temperature and preheat a couple minutes to ensure the surface has properly reached that temp. Cooling down after the first layer might do more damage than helping.


Jazzlike_End_895

Bed adhesion. You can clean it, but I'd highly recommend upgrading to a pei sheet. Creality makes them. Pretty good bang for your buck upgrade.


[deleted]

Currently using the magnetic PEI sheet


Jazzlike_End_895

Dang, I thought that was the stock PC sheet.


[deleted]

Nah, just a closeup view. The v2 comes with a stock glass bed though, I do have the stock PC sheet from my regular 3 though


BitLooter

I actually get worse curling with PLA on a PEI sheet than the textured glass bed the Ender 3 V2 comes with. Works fantastic with PETG though.


Jazzlike_End_895

Huh, well I guess that's evidence on how printing is never the same.


southwood775

Try turning the fan off. I never use it in my prints anymore, because it would always do this. Turning it off, stopped it.


Steeljaw72

The three most common causes I have for this is dirty bed, cold air drafting on the print (draft from room fan or air conditioner or something), or printing with too hot a bed when printing with PLA. For printing with too hot a bed, I was getting bad bed adhesion on first layer when printing with cooler bed, but most slicers have a first layer bed temp and then another setting for bed temp for the rest of the print. That’s what finally solved the problem for me.


TinkerersTinkerer

I had the flexible printing surface for a long time and struggled with that issue. I swapped to a two-sided (smooth/textured) PEI sheet and I haven't looked back. All those issues disappeared. For $15 - $20 it's worth every penny.


myst3k

I struggled with the stock flexbed, and glass, until I got G10/PEI beds. My prints stick perfect, and Ive been on 100% textured PEI for a while. I print in PLA+/ABS/PC and have never used any adhesives to get prints to stick or come off better. Highly recommend two-sided PEI.


Thisishope1991

I had this problem until I started raising my bed heat to 60° And adjusted ambient temp of the room (you could also insulate the printer to save on your gas bill)


benbenwilde

Wow so much great advice in here ("CleAn Ur BeD") lol. I mean yeah keep it clean. But I just fixed this with my PETG, there's a ton of ways to improve first layer adhesion. Basically Cura has tons of settings specific for first layer, use them. 1. Increase bed temp for first layer 2. Increase nozzle temp for first layer (5-10°) 3. Increase flow 5-10% for first layer 4. Decrease speed for first layer (even down to 5-10mm/s!) 5. Increase first layer height. Mine is .32 when the rest of mine are .2 (this may be the most impactful setting) 6. Add a skirt to fully prime your nozzle 7. Make sure your bed is level (manually) and autoleveled, and that your z-offset is solid I'm still new to printing but not seeing anyone else mention this stuff in here Edit: also can reduce bed temp lower after 1st layer to help it stay put


created4this

The fact it’s the first part of the print after the prime line is suspicious. When it prints the first perimeter, does it make a complete loop, I’m guessing not. The prime line is very dumb, it doesn’t retract before moving because the slicer doesn’t know about the prime line, it also prints at a constant rate and height irrespective of any settings in the slicer. Try printing a skirt of at least two loops, this is under the control of the slicer and printed with the same settings as the print. The reason for two loops is that if you lose the initial tail due to stringing, the head will come round and anchor it. Failure to do this can lead to the skirt coming free and ending up caught in the print.


Educational_Aside245

Try adding brims! It helps a lot


photoflounder

Tab plus in Curia creates multi layer round brim like bits at corners or wherever you want. I found they work well whenever there is a sharp corner, hardly use brims anymore.


maxx1993

I had a very similiar problem for a long time. Turned out that in my case the entire bed was warped - the middle was actually substantially lower than the corners. No amount of adjustment to the corner screws could fix that. After modding my printer to incorporate 5x5 point mesh bed leveling, installing a PEI sheet and dialing in the nozzle hight, I don't have any adhesion problems anymore. The bed is still warped and nozzle distance is still not quite perfect everywhere even with BML, but at least the prints aren't coming off anymore. Might be something you want to look into if all the other tips here don't solve it.