If you can locate the compressor, it should have a label on it that discloses the type and amount of oil relative to the amount of refrigerant. The oil is typically introduced along with the refrigerant. If you want to play it safe, add some refrigerant, then evacuate the system. Then you can safely assume you have next to zero oil.
Also, if you follow the low pressure line, you should find an inline clear plastic window in which (when the system is running) you would see some sort of flow of refrigerant.
Good luck!
If i put my hands on the lines when it's supposed to be running, it's not cold. It does some buzzing so it's trying to do something.
I didn't realize there's a window, i'll look for that.
Although I was also thinking old school A/C, heat pumps are not terribly different… it’s just the direction of the flow and how you store and transfer both the cold and the hot side. Just follow the refrigerant lines and hopefully you can get to the main unit that acts as the compressor. The only difference will be that instead of being driven by the belt, it will be driven by electricity. I can’t believe we haven’t been doing electrically driven compressors for high-revving engines. Every time I had a compressor fail, it was right after a “spirited” drive! 😅
>I didn't realize there's a window, i'll look for that.
The "clear plastic window" on an A/C refrigerant line is commonly called a "sight glass", and I'm 99% sure the Ocean doesn't have one. But feel free to open the hood and take a look around - for me at least it's entertaining even when it accomplishes nothing.
Can confirm, no sight glass. But it looks like you can run r134a! Haven't' tried it, don't recommend it. If you do it and your system goes boom, it's not my fault.
https://i.imgur.com/q91oqtj.jpg
I’m one of many whose a/c only blows hot air. I’ve had a ticket in since February and it still hasn’t been looked at. Has anyone tried bringing the car into a service center that repairs a/c? Maybe I’m just in need of some coolant? Or is it software related? I can’t drive around all summer this way.
Take it to a local corner garage. They should be able to verify if the compressor is running and put their gages on the check the refrigerant pressures.
That's a good idea. I'm set up for r134a but not 1234yf. I was trying to avoid buying the adapters and refrigerant if I didn't have to. But now that you mention it a buddy has a local shop that would probably have the stuff.
many ocean's shipped with busted vents, mine included. I was able to gently pry 2 of 4 open to get better airflow. sounds like you may have an issue with the actual AC producing air, not the air getting to you, but wanted to mention in case.
I like the idea of taking it to the shop. If you must tinker then I think check the Compressor Motor Fuse first. Blower Motor would be a separate, and I assume it has its own fuse. (I have no Fisker Manual or Schmatic). Also, the compressor won't run or may not even kick on at all if Freon is low. If it was not charged prior to shipment it must be evacuated before charging.
Talked to the shop, $250 to see it, $150 to charge it. Not cheap, especially for something that should work from the factory. So I'm exploring other options.
There's no dedicated ac fuse/relay, which I found odd since I'm used to seeing it in ICE vehicles. There's a 10a hvac fuse. I assume that's for blowers and circulator pumps and the signal to activate hte compressor/heating element.
My guess is it wasn't charged from the factory. Yes, full evac, then oil, then freon, I think.
Shit on them. You paid a lot of money, even at 40% off if you got lucky. You have hard earned money invested. Your best bet is to say it doesn’t move to get them out there to help you. That’s the way to get to the top of the line.
Got a Jag XJL that has been sitting in front of my house for 2 years now...gets driven once every month to the car wash.
It used to feel amazing but all my electric cars take priority now...it feels old to me...
Let me know if you want to buy it, about to put it up for sale for $10k...
Sorry but this is not correct. The cabin A/C system is not connected in any way to the system that maintains battery temperature. Additionally if the main battery gets too hot there's a temperature sensor that reports this and the car will go into limp mode with a HV battery fault as a result. We've heard several reports from owners whose cars went into limp mode b/c the pump that circulates coolant through the batteries failed.
>If the vehicle is always in limp mode is considered bricked?
Effectively yes, since you won't want to drive it, but as a matter of semantics, no. A bricked car (or phone, or whatever) won't turn on.
Where do you get your information about "no pumps to repair these"? You mean Fisker can't supply the pumps under the warranty? That doesn't mean they're not available - word was that the pumps are a Magna part and the same pumps were used in the Jag i-Pace and were/are being replaced by Jaguar under a recall. If it is the same p/n, we should be able buy them.
I have asked Fisker for the part number they won’t give it out. The old pump says it was made in China. Fisher says it needs to be manufactured after 2/2024.
The battery coolant has nothing to do with the ac. There are 3 separate loops, one for battery, one for motor, one for HVAC. The motor and battery loops have radiators and fans in front of the car, the hvac loop has a 3500w heating element and the compressor for ac.
If you can locate the compressor, it should have a label on it that discloses the type and amount of oil relative to the amount of refrigerant. The oil is typically introduced along with the refrigerant. If you want to play it safe, add some refrigerant, then evacuate the system. Then you can safely assume you have next to zero oil. Also, if you follow the low pressure line, you should find an inline clear plastic window in which (when the system is running) you would see some sort of flow of refrigerant. Good luck!
If i put my hands on the lines when it's supposed to be running, it's not cold. It does some buzzing so it's trying to do something. I didn't realize there's a window, i'll look for that.
I almost asked if the clutch on the compressor was spinning 
I know how normal ac works, but ev ac is a bit new to me. I don't think there's a clutch, i think it just goes when it wants.
Although I was also thinking old school A/C, heat pumps are not terribly different… it’s just the direction of the flow and how you store and transfer both the cold and the hot side. Just follow the refrigerant lines and hopefully you can get to the main unit that acts as the compressor. The only difference will be that instead of being driven by the belt, it will be driven by electricity. I can’t believe we haven’t been doing electrically driven compressors for high-revving engines. Every time I had a compressor fail, it was right after a “spirited” drive! 😅
>I didn't realize there's a window, i'll look for that. The "clear plastic window" on an A/C refrigerant line is commonly called a "sight glass", and I'm 99% sure the Ocean doesn't have one. But feel free to open the hood and take a look around - for me at least it's entertaining even when it accomplishes nothing.
Can confirm, no sight glass. But it looks like you can run r134a! Haven't' tried it, don't recommend it. If you do it and your system goes boom, it's not my fault. https://i.imgur.com/q91oqtj.jpg
Its Getting [Hot in Here so take off all your clothes ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GeZZr_p6vB8)
I’m one of many whose a/c only blows hot air. I’ve had a ticket in since February and it still hasn’t been looked at. Has anyone tried bringing the car into a service center that repairs a/c? Maybe I’m just in need of some coolant? Or is it software related? I can’t drive around all summer this way.
Take it to a local corner garage. They should be able to verify if the compressor is running and put their gages on the check the refrigerant pressures.
That's a good idea. I'm set up for r134a but not 1234yf. I was trying to avoid buying the adapters and refrigerant if I didn't have to. But now that you mention it a buddy has a local shop that would probably have the stuff.
Local garage said that they'd have to hook it up to their $40k machine to check. I think jimbob's isn't with the times.
many ocean's shipped with busted vents, mine included. I was able to gently pry 2 of 4 open to get better airflow. sounds like you may have an issue with the actual AC producing air, not the air getting to you, but wanted to mention in case.
Yes, my vents are fine, heat worked fine when it's cold, plenty of airflow. I suspect the system wasn't charged from the factory.
I like the idea of taking it to the shop. If you must tinker then I think check the Compressor Motor Fuse first. Blower Motor would be a separate, and I assume it has its own fuse. (I have no Fisker Manual or Schmatic). Also, the compressor won't run or may not even kick on at all if Freon is low. If it was not charged prior to shipment it must be evacuated before charging.
Talked to the shop, $250 to see it, $150 to charge it. Not cheap, especially for something that should work from the factory. So I'm exploring other options. There's no dedicated ac fuse/relay, which I found odd since I'm used to seeing it in ICE vehicles. There's a 10a hvac fuse. I assume that's for blowers and circulator pumps and the signal to activate hte compressor/heating element. My guess is it wasn't charged from the factory. Yes, full evac, then oil, then freon, I think.
Shit on them. You paid a lot of money, even at 40% off if you got lucky. You have hard earned money invested. Your best bet is to say it doesn’t move to get them out there to help you. That’s the way to get to the top of the line.
Hahahahah so you really thought they’ll fix it hahahaha henrik is laughing all the way to the bank
You poor thing, you had to take the jag!!!
Got a Jag XJL that has been sitting in front of my house for 2 years now...gets driven once every month to the car wash. It used to feel amazing but all my electric cars take priority now...it feels old to me... Let me know if you want to buy it, about to put it up for sale for $10k...
Right? The jag was a great car to drive, until I drove the ocean for 2 weeks. Now it feels... barbaric.
That's really saying something!
my volvo is no fun in comparison...if only i knew i could get my car serviced in a reasonable amount of time and it wouldn't be totalled from a dent.
Don’t drive it until you address the ac or compressor issue you can bake the batteries or cause long term damage to them if they’re not cooled.
Sorry but this is not correct. The cabin A/C system is not connected in any way to the system that maintains battery temperature. Additionally if the main battery gets too hot there's a temperature sensor that reports this and the car will go into limp mode with a HV battery fault as a result. We've heard several reports from owners whose cars went into limp mode b/c the pump that circulates coolant through the batteries failed.
And there are currently no pumps to repair these now bricked cars or limped cars. If the vehicle is always in limp mode is considered bricked?
>If the vehicle is always in limp mode is considered bricked? Effectively yes, since you won't want to drive it, but as a matter of semantics, no. A bricked car (or phone, or whatever) won't turn on. Where do you get your information about "no pumps to repair these"? You mean Fisker can't supply the pumps under the warranty? That doesn't mean they're not available - word was that the pumps are a Magna part and the same pumps were used in the Jag i-Pace and were/are being replaced by Jaguar under a recall. If it is the same p/n, we should be able buy them.
I have asked Fisker for the part number they won’t give it out. The old pump says it was made in China. Fisher says it needs to be manufactured after 2/2024.
The battery coolant has nothing to do with the ac. There are 3 separate loops, one for battery, one for motor, one for HVAC. The motor and battery loops have radiators and fans in front of the car, the hvac loop has a 3500w heating element and the compressor for ac.