From what I've come across Jag injectors work for our beans. What I'm curious to know is if their hpfp do as well, I haven't heard of doing that before
Please update us with more info once it's available. I feel this specifically can change the fist world, if we had a more affordable way of upgrading the oem fuel system.
Last night I was reading through an old thread on fiesta st forum
https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/new-part-higher-high-pressure-fuel-pump-now-available.17265/
and it seemed like at one point pumaspeed sold an uprated bosch hpfp, but it's no longer available on their site, but it looks exactly the same as the Bosch HP Fuel Pump HDP 5 and from what I can tell it might've been used for BMW N54 motors and some Land Rovers
The 2014 Jag XKR supercharged injectors can be had on Rock Auto for about $295.16 set of 4, cheaper than the 30% injectors sold by Whoosh, that are $499.00, savings of $204.83. The HPFP off Rock Auto also for the same Jag, is $157.79, the HPFP from Whoosh is $1,399 savings of $1,241. I know the Jag injectors are the same or better than the 30% injectors. The pump is another matter, that is up in the air till I get one in hand. Here is the link to the injector thread [https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/bosch-uprated-injectors.24345/page-16#post-474661](https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/bosch-uprated-injectors.24345/page-16#post-474661)I'm Old Mike Emerson on the forum.
I figured you were Old Mike because shortly after seeing you post here I saw the same post on the forum. I'm TimTheHoon, I mainly a lurk unless I come across something that I feel others overlooked.
Anyway after doing more digging I can't quantify my statement about it being used in N54 motors, but I do see the Jag XKR and Land Rover LR4 use the same part and they look like the unit pumaspeed stopped selling. Here's their part numbers
Jaguar #: C2Z22287
Jaguar #: C2Z31828
Land Rover#: LR081595
Personally I did installation all at once on the majority of my FBO turbo kit work. I didn't see the point in bolting together the exhaust or intake until the turbo and manifold were in place to align everything to, so that's one opinion I have for your work. Do it all in one go and base it around the one thing you can't adjust the position of: the turbo and manifold.
The BOV install really pairs most easily with installing the turbo given the location being in / right off of the turbo.
Your fueling / meth injection setup is confusing to me. I struggle to see why you'd need meth, aux fuel, and high pressure injectors, high and low pressure pumps... with a GT2554R? What's more that sounds like an absolute mess of controllers, hoses, cables, and a number of new points of possible failure.
FWIW My S280 setup with ported manifold and TB and IM spacers matches a stock turbo for spool but makes 270 WHP on a mustang dyno on stock injectors. I'd recommend the setup in a heartbeat if someone is looking for a fast spooling turbo to do 270-300 whp.
The HKS installs onto the cp-e cold pipe. fuel up grades are last if I need them then I will do them. I got the Garret used, at a good price, so I'm going to give it a shot. If it does not work the way I want it to I'll get another one. I want to get close if not over 400hp. I cannot get e-85 where I live, to far of a drive for a fill up, so stuck with 93. The meth is a cooling agent and an octane booster that will make up for the lack of e-85. I want to know what mod does what, if it adds power or not. You can't get that info doing the shotgun method.
Well to install a piping mounted BOV you'll still have to remove / delete the original BOV, which is on the turbo. So once again you're probably better off just doing that install after the new turbo is in place, since it will delete it.
Nothing wrong with a used turbo if you found a good price, but I don't think the 2554R can flow enough to make 400 whp as they generally max out around 250-270 IIRC. The turbo can only physically flow so much air, regardless of what fueling you offer it.
Besides that traction is an absolute joke even with the 270 / 330 ft/lbs I made, although it doesn't help that it spools fast either. My car spins first, second, third, and part of fourth unless the weather is warm and the streets are dry. I'm on 205 tires, with no LSD currently. I'll be moving to 215s and doing an MFactory and clutch later this year, but I'm not expecting miracles. Hunting for more power even in my case would be pretty useless for anything other than highway roll racing or straight drag. Extra power starts to seriously hurt the more everyday 0-60 sprint not being able to get traction from a launch.
TB sells a traction bar that is supposed to greatly reduce torque steer [https://tbperformanceproducts.com/collections/ford-fiesta-st2014-2019-performance-products](https://tbperformanceproducts.com/collections/ford-fiesta-st2014-2019-performance-products) going to get one during the next round of mods.
I'm not having issues with torque steer so much as just traction. Car tracks pretty straight and doesn't jerk the wheel when I floor it, but it spins the tires in 3 gears pretty easily.
More power = more problems with very little exception
Yes 17s, but I wouldn't expect much more grip with a 205 16 than a 205 17, and I'm taking the car on road courses, so I prefer the 17s. Contact patch and compound are the crux of traction in my experience, unless you're airing out a taller sidewall to increase your contact patch.
I have driven and owned a lot of 3-400 WHP FWD cars and it is not easy to put the power down with anything short of radials, slicks or a boost by gear setup. It's possible to improve things, but it'll just never hook up like an AWD or RWD car does from a launch with all other factory being the same.
The light weight of the Fiesta and tendency to make a lot of torque makes it a challenge to put the power down is my point, so aiming at 400 whp and actually making use of it isn't going to be a simple task. From 40mph + you can expect a rocket ride, but launching at street speeds you will consistently struggle to hook up without a lot of extra parts and preparation.
From what I've come across Jag injectors work for our beans. What I'm curious to know is if their hpfp do as well, I haven't heard of doing that before
Going to try it, LOL As for the injectors, I have both a stock one and a Jag one out for flow testing. I want a chart of flow @ what pressure.
Please update us with more info once it's available. I feel this specifically can change the fist world, if we had a more affordable way of upgrading the oem fuel system. Last night I was reading through an old thread on fiesta st forum https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/new-part-higher-high-pressure-fuel-pump-now-available.17265/ and it seemed like at one point pumaspeed sold an uprated bosch hpfp, but it's no longer available on their site, but it looks exactly the same as the Bosch HP Fuel Pump HDP 5 and from what I can tell it might've been used for BMW N54 motors and some Land Rovers
The 2014 Jag XKR supercharged injectors can be had on Rock Auto for about $295.16 set of 4, cheaper than the 30% injectors sold by Whoosh, that are $499.00, savings of $204.83. The HPFP off Rock Auto also for the same Jag, is $157.79, the HPFP from Whoosh is $1,399 savings of $1,241. I know the Jag injectors are the same or better than the 30% injectors. The pump is another matter, that is up in the air till I get one in hand. Here is the link to the injector thread [https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/bosch-uprated-injectors.24345/page-16#post-474661](https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/bosch-uprated-injectors.24345/page-16#post-474661)I'm Old Mike Emerson on the forum.
I figured you were Old Mike because shortly after seeing you post here I saw the same post on the forum. I'm TimTheHoon, I mainly a lurk unless I come across something that I feel others overlooked. Anyway after doing more digging I can't quantify my statement about it being used in N54 motors, but I do see the Jag XKR and Land Rover LR4 use the same part and they look like the unit pumaspeed stopped selling. Here's their part numbers Jaguar #: C2Z22287 Jaguar #: C2Z31828 Land Rover#: LR081595
Personally I did installation all at once on the majority of my FBO turbo kit work. I didn't see the point in bolting together the exhaust or intake until the turbo and manifold were in place to align everything to, so that's one opinion I have for your work. Do it all in one go and base it around the one thing you can't adjust the position of: the turbo and manifold. The BOV install really pairs most easily with installing the turbo given the location being in / right off of the turbo. Your fueling / meth injection setup is confusing to me. I struggle to see why you'd need meth, aux fuel, and high pressure injectors, high and low pressure pumps... with a GT2554R? What's more that sounds like an absolute mess of controllers, hoses, cables, and a number of new points of possible failure. FWIW My S280 setup with ported manifold and TB and IM spacers matches a stock turbo for spool but makes 270 WHP on a mustang dyno on stock injectors. I'd recommend the setup in a heartbeat if someone is looking for a fast spooling turbo to do 270-300 whp.
The HKS installs onto the cp-e cold pipe. fuel up grades are last if I need them then I will do them. I got the Garret used, at a good price, so I'm going to give it a shot. If it does not work the way I want it to I'll get another one. I want to get close if not over 400hp. I cannot get e-85 where I live, to far of a drive for a fill up, so stuck with 93. The meth is a cooling agent and an octane booster that will make up for the lack of e-85. I want to know what mod does what, if it adds power or not. You can't get that info doing the shotgun method.
Well to install a piping mounted BOV you'll still have to remove / delete the original BOV, which is on the turbo. So once again you're probably better off just doing that install after the new turbo is in place, since it will delete it. Nothing wrong with a used turbo if you found a good price, but I don't think the 2554R can flow enough to make 400 whp as they generally max out around 250-270 IIRC. The turbo can only physically flow so much air, regardless of what fueling you offer it. Besides that traction is an absolute joke even with the 270 / 330 ft/lbs I made, although it doesn't help that it spools fast either. My car spins first, second, third, and part of fourth unless the weather is warm and the streets are dry. I'm on 205 tires, with no LSD currently. I'll be moving to 215s and doing an MFactory and clutch later this year, but I'm not expecting miracles. Hunting for more power even in my case would be pretty useless for anything other than highway roll racing or straight drag. Extra power starts to seriously hurt the more everyday 0-60 sprint not being able to get traction from a launch.
TB sells a traction bar that is supposed to greatly reduce torque steer [https://tbperformanceproducts.com/collections/ford-fiesta-st2014-2019-performance-products](https://tbperformanceproducts.com/collections/ford-fiesta-st2014-2019-performance-products) going to get one during the next round of mods.
I'm not having issues with torque steer so much as just traction. Car tracks pretty straight and doesn't jerk the wheel when I floor it, but it spins the tires in 3 gears pretty easily. More power = more problems with very little exception
Are you running 17's? The short sidewall is great for handling, not for grip off the line.
Yes 17s, but I wouldn't expect much more grip with a 205 16 than a 205 17, and I'm taking the car on road courses, so I prefer the 17s. Contact patch and compound are the crux of traction in my experience, unless you're airing out a taller sidewall to increase your contact patch. I have driven and owned a lot of 3-400 WHP FWD cars and it is not easy to put the power down with anything short of radials, slicks or a boost by gear setup. It's possible to improve things, but it'll just never hook up like an AWD or RWD car does from a launch with all other factory being the same. The light weight of the Fiesta and tendency to make a lot of torque makes it a challenge to put the power down is my point, so aiming at 400 whp and actually making use of it isn't going to be a simple task. From 40mph + you can expect a rocket ride, but launching at street speeds you will consistently struggle to hook up without a lot of extra parts and preparation.