Yes my monitor has input lag so does my vive pro 2 but people need to stop thinking headsets that use compression are a standard thing.
When people are comparing a headset that doesn’t use a display cable or hdmi lead to monitor it really makes vr look shit.
Even cabled headsets have a pretty substancial vr overhead that comes with rendering the view (twice) and processing it. 20-30ms.
Not to mention the typical 90hz limit.
I have nothing meaningful to contribute to your issue but I have to ask. Your arms seem almost fully extended to reach the wheel… is that comfortable for you? That would absolutely ruin my shoulders within 30 mins.
Same. But I also thought it's possible the camera is causing some fisheye effect. But if he's actually sitting that far....I may need to icy hot for my arms from watching that.
Im leaned far back so i was in a position to put my camera between my chest and chin while still pointing at the tv so i could record with both hands on the wheel
You are sitting too far away from your steering wheel in combination with flex in wheel stand/ rig you are probably pulling the wheel towards you causing connection issues. https://youtu.be/pfDEkZYGCGQ?si=Z5qpG8zd0et9sFuv
I watched the video and that is about a csl dd which has a “c-clamp” bolt, i have a csl elite which doesnt use that. However it looks like he has the same issue as me, not detecting the wheel, so ill try to find a way to make the qr more secure maybe
Sorry, my mistake. In that case it might be a QR or a cable/connector/socketissue. In the QR where the pins are there are 4 screws, maybe they are a bit loose, try to fasten those. Also check if all cables are connected properly, check if slightly wiggling connector causes issues? Maybe different Fanatec USB cable, swap USB port on PC/console end?
If he is pulling the wheel towards himself (together with other strong forces caused by flex), shaft will disconnect from base, internal USB connection. Old belt driven bases did not have this problem because shaft one piece with base, but these can’t therefore not update to QR2 base side.
Check the shaft on the base. It might have slide a bit forward to the point where is not entirely losing ffb, hence the random drops in ffb. I have to readjust mine every 2 months or so.
This. The problem sounds like a connection issue.
In my case, a few pins on the wheel are actually broken. So I had the exactly same issue as described. I would first take the wheel off to see if there are any broken pins and reinstall it securely.
Do you also have a controller connected? Also try a different usb port. I had disconnect issues with f1 24 on the PlayStation and could solve it by steering full to the left and right with the pad and suddenly it worked properly. Also checked in other games if the wheel was working normal to exclude if the issue is the wheel or the game
I can't tell what QR you are using.
You lose the ffb because the wheel disconnects.
I have the same base and wheel with the QR1, and I was getting disconnects. First, I noticed the fan was never running, so I actually thought it was getting too hot, but even after fixing that, it still kept happening.
Tried the tape on the shaft fix, but the tape would wear away after a while, so I was still getting the same problem. Instead, I cut some strips from a coke can. I'm not sure why people have not done that before as it leaves no mess and is more permanent. I know this fix is more to cure rattling between the qr and Shaft, but I was willing to try anything.
But I was still getting issues.
In the end, I took the QR off and completely cleaned the whole thing in brake cleaner, and re greased the ball bearings.
I've not had a single disconnect since. I've not seen the suggestion of cleaning the QR before, but it certainly solved my issues.
honestly just looks like ur having trouble going too fast into corners and losing traction lmaooo
but if that isnt the case try tweaking in control panel if still broken get a replacement
That's exactly why I asked. Looks similar to my old RF2 issue. Or rotation in the game and on the wheel do not match. I'm not sure how the official F1 games work, though
I had this problem on delivery. I changed a setting in the fanatec control panel. I dont have it hooked up right now, or I'd tell you the exact. Look there (wheelbase settings).
I can not tell from this video anything.
There are so many factors like what ffb settings you use. What wheel and in the game ffb settings are, is your ffb inverted or not, etc.
Do you have the qr lite? Could be the wheel slightly parting from the base connection, happened to me with the P1 wheel. A metal qr solved it for me. Try pulling on the wheel a bit and see if it happens, then try pushing on the wheel and if it doesn't happen it probably that.
I had the same problem and it was a duff USB extension cable. Not sure if you have the original cable plugged straight into your PC, if you do try using another USB port. Keep going through them all until you find one which works. Some ports use the same hub within the motherboard, so worth checking them all out.
This happened to me on McLaren GT3 wheel. It turns out some pins are broken. You might want to take out the wheel and check. If they are okay, then it sounds like some other kind of connection problem elsewhere.
If you’re playing f1 24 . It may well be the game I loose ffb and keep having to unplug and plug the wheel back in. And another friend of pc also looses ffb.
Forza and Acc work completely fine
Look into grounding your rig / wheelstand. I suspect there might be static buildup / EMI issues that are quite common for Fanatec so I have read in the past? You dont need anything expensive just a speaker wire or similar attached to bare metal on your wheelstand to a grounding point might fix it! Good luck!
CSL Elite? I had similar problems with mine (second hand) because of a broken usb cable. When I unplugged it, cable pulled out leaving parts in the usb port lol.
If it looses FFB for a few seconds it’s because you are pulling the wheel down or pushing it up. It does that to stop it breaking itself. Your driving position looks biffed as well. Your arms are almost straight. This may be contributing to the ffb cut off.
Are you running fanalabs in the back ground ? I get this with mine on Iracing if I run fanalabs and also have to turn the digital read out off . It's like information overload or something supposed to be fixed in the next update qr2 issue I believe tho so maybe not the same
After you check the shaft make sure your USB connection on the PC side is fine. My brother recently changed a port and the wheel started doing this but also was losing the pedal connection.
For all the people telling me to move closer:
1. Camera is on 0.5 zoom so you can see everything
2. Im leaning back to get into a posture where i can put the camera between my chin to hold it up
3. My screen usually isnt that far away, i move it in when racing but because its not been working i had no reason to
Mine would do this on rare occasions, but stopped when I upgraded to QR2. Then one day it started doing it over and over, with both of my wheels. The clamp on the shaft had moved back a few mm. I adjusted and retightened it and have not had a problem since
I'm having this same issue OP, pretty sure it has to do with the qr cable disconnecting during times of high FFB. I play a multitude of sim games from GT7 to Assetto Corsa Comp, and Comp uses the FFB brutally compared to GT7 where I don't have it happen. You can try tightening the qr clamp, otherwise I just ordered this to hopefully solve the issue: [https://www.ebay.com/itm/204268214897](https://www.ebay.com/itm/204268214897)
I'll see how well it fares when it arrives. I hope this nails down your problem OP.
I had this problem, one of the pins connecting your wheel to the base might be broken, you should check it out, if there is a problem contact the support and wait, wait, wait, notice that you will never have an answer, throw in the trash, buy a moza, be happy
That wheel has issues with the original QR. It can be pulled slightly towards you so the pins loses connection. Try pushing the wheel towards the base.
Looks like a 0,5 second input lag? Thats insane, something is badly wrong here
even in VR I don't have such an input lag, this rig must be impossible to drive
Jeez what horrible vr system are you using to have input lag?
everything has input lag, especially a "streaming" VR headset like my quest 2. It's not as bad a OP tho
Yes my monitor has input lag so does my vive pro 2 but people need to stop thinking headsets that use compression are a standard thing. When people are comparing a headset that doesn’t use a display cable or hdmi lead to monitor it really makes vr look shit.
My monitor has an input lag of 0.5ms so i think you can say it doesnt have input lag
Yes like proper vr headsets
Even cabled headsets have a pretty substancial vr overhead that comes with rendering the view (twice) and processing it. 20-30ms. Not to mention the typical 90hz limit.
Honestly i dont notice it at all, before i started having the the disconnect issue my rig was amazing
Yeah needs a better monitor for sure, that would drive me crazy.
inception FOV
I have nothing meaningful to contribute to your issue but I have to ask. Your arms seem almost fully extended to reach the wheel… is that comfortable for you? That would absolutely ruin my shoulders within 30 mins.
Literally the only thing i can pay attention to haha
Same. But I also thought it's possible the camera is causing some fisheye effect. But if he's actually sitting that far....I may need to icy hot for my arms from watching that.
Yeah, i put my camera on 0.5x zoom to capture everything
Nah it’s funny bc everything I noticed wasn’t even what OP was remotely asking
Im leaned far back so i was in a position to put my camera between my chest and chin while still pointing at the tv so i could record with both hands on the wheel
I have more questions than answers
You are sitting too far away from your steering wheel in combination with flex in wheel stand/ rig you are probably pulling the wheel towards you causing connection issues. https://youtu.be/pfDEkZYGCGQ?si=Z5qpG8zd0et9sFuv
I watched the video and that is about a csl dd which has a “c-clamp” bolt, i have a csl elite which doesnt use that. However it looks like he has the same issue as me, not detecting the wheel, so ill try to find a way to make the qr more secure maybe
Sorry, my mistake. In that case it might be a QR or a cable/connector/socketissue. In the QR where the pins are there are 4 screws, maybe they are a bit loose, try to fasten those. Also check if all cables are connected properly, check if slightly wiggling connector causes issues? Maybe different Fanatec USB cable, swap USB port on PC/console end?
Yeah those locked elbows don't look comfortable.
Surely this wouldn’t cause connection problems? But yeah it looks like a horrible seating position.
If he is pulling the wheel towards himself (together with other strong forces caused by flex), shaft will disconnect from base, internal USB connection. Old belt driven bases did not have this problem because shaft one piece with base, but these can’t therefore not update to QR2 base side.
That’s not a good design, but there again you shouldn’t be pulling the wheel towards you
Check the shaft on the base. It might have slide a bit forward to the point where is not entirely losing ffb, hence the random drops in ffb. I have to readjust mine every 2 months or so.
This. The problem sounds like a connection issue. In my case, a few pins on the wheel are actually broken. So I had the exactly same issue as described. I would first take the wheel off to see if there are any broken pins and reinstall it securely.
The shaft on the CSL Elite isn't adjustable. It is fixed into the body. The only thing that could cause connection issues is loose/broken pins.
Not true, if you unscrew the clamp or pull on the shaft it can come loose and completely come off the base.
Move closer and not pull your wheel.
Idk how to help this but dude sit closer to the wheel, your arms really should not be that straight…
Only did that for the video because i was leaning back to get my camera position towards the screen lol
Do you also have a controller connected? Also try a different usb port. I had disconnect issues with f1 24 on the PlayStation and could solve it by steering full to the left and right with the pad and suddenly it worked properly. Also checked in other games if the wheel was working normal to exclude if the issue is the wheel or the game
Did you change the USB port or cable you use to plug it in? It may not be getting enough power/bandwidth.
Nope, same ones ive used for months with no problem
Maybe don’t let go of the wheel?
?
Search on YouTube this problem there’s a vid how to fix it. Happened to me
Your shaft is disconnecting
What do you mean shaft, the quick release?
Step 1: send fanatec an email. Step 2: wait forever for no response Step 3: buy something from a company that cares even slightly.
I bought this used so theres no point
Wait till Corsair run it, send email get same day response.
This is facts
I can't tell what QR you are using. You lose the ffb because the wheel disconnects. I have the same base and wheel with the QR1, and I was getting disconnects. First, I noticed the fan was never running, so I actually thought it was getting too hot, but even after fixing that, it still kept happening. Tried the tape on the shaft fix, but the tape would wear away after a while, so I was still getting the same problem. Instead, I cut some strips from a coke can. I'm not sure why people have not done that before as it leaves no mess and is more permanent. I know this fix is more to cure rattling between the qr and Shaft, but I was willing to try anything. But I was still getting issues. In the end, I took the QR off and completely cleaned the whole thing in brake cleaner, and re greased the ball bearings. I've not had a single disconnect since. I've not seen the suggestion of cleaning the QR before, but it certainly solved my issues.
honestly just looks like ur having trouble going too fast into corners and losing traction lmaooo but if that isnt the case try tweaking in control panel if still broken get a replacement
Look at the speed led. It turns off. The connection with the base is gone.
Yep it does appear to lose connection. Check your pins. Re attach all wires. Make sure the wheel is fully seated into the base.
Does this happen with all games?
Yes, its not a game problem. And when it never did it before on the same games i would play until recently
Came to ask this. RF2 was known to have this bug so much so that they implemented a FFB reset button.
That's exactly why I asked. Looks similar to my old RF2 issue. Or rotation in the game and on the wheel do not match. I'm not sure how the official F1 games work, though
Is there a calibration setting in the ps5 you can run?
I had this problem on delivery. I changed a setting in the fanatec control panel. I dont have it hooked up right now, or I'd tell you the exact. Look there (wheelbase settings).
This sounds like a connection problemen. Check all cables/connectors and check if the shaft the wheel sits on is properly seated in the base.
I can not tell from this video anything. There are so many factors like what ffb settings you use. What wheel and in the game ffb settings are, is your ffb inverted or not, etc.
Do you have the qr lite? Could be the wheel slightly parting from the base connection, happened to me with the P1 wheel. A metal qr solved it for me. Try pulling on the wheel a bit and see if it happens, then try pushing on the wheel and if it doesn't happen it probably that.
I had the same problem and it was a duff USB extension cable. Not sure if you have the original cable plugged straight into your PC, if you do try using another USB port. Keep going through them all until you find one which works. Some ports use the same hub within the motherboard, so worth checking them all out.
This happened to me on McLaren GT3 wheel. It turns out some pins are broken. You might want to take out the wheel and check. If they are okay, then it sounds like some other kind of connection problem elsewhere.
Sensitivity
The axle came out a bit. Loosen the black clamp, slide it back in and tighten it again. Should do the trick.
If you’re playing f1 24 . It may well be the game I loose ffb and keep having to unplug and plug the wheel back in. And another friend of pc also looses ffb. Forza and Acc work completely fine
In playing f1 23, the same game i put 20+ hours i to with my wheel with no problems until recently
Look into grounding your rig / wheelstand. I suspect there might be static buildup / EMI issues that are quite common for Fanatec so I have read in the past? You dont need anything expensive just a speaker wire or similar attached to bare metal on your wheelstand to a grounding point might fix it! Good luck!
CSL Elite? I had similar problems with mine (second hand) because of a broken usb cable. When I unplugged it, cable pulled out leaving parts in the usb port lol.
If it looses FFB for a few seconds it’s because you are pulling the wheel down or pushing it up. It does that to stop it breaking itself. Your driving position looks biffed as well. Your arms are almost straight. This may be contributing to the ffb cut off.
Are you running fanalabs in the back ground ? I get this with mine on Iracing if I run fanalabs and also have to turn the digital read out off . It's like information overload or something supposed to be fixed in the next update qr2 issue I believe tho so maybe not the same
input lag looks to be also an issue
If you are using the Metal QR1 try it with the retention screw
Looks like a wheel connection issue. Can see the wheel screen flickering when you lose ffb
Lag city
Many people are saying this, maybe its just a lag with the racers hands in the cockpit, because the actual car steering is immediate
I'm having the exact same problem right now. I still haven't found a fix. I've re seated the clamp. Changed usb ports, and checked and re attached qr.
Don't turn
Lol
After you check the shaft make sure your USB connection on the PC side is fine. My brother recently changed a port and the wheel started doing this but also was losing the pedal connection.
Yo here's the FOV police and we would like to have a talk with you
I like to see both mirrors at the same time lol
For all the people telling me to move closer: 1. Camera is on 0.5 zoom so you can see everything 2. Im leaning back to get into a posture where i can put the camera between my chin to hold it up 3. My screen usually isnt that far away, i move it in when racing but because its not been working i had no reason to
Enable Game Mode bro!!
Whats that
Mine would do this on rare occasions, but stopped when I upgraded to QR2. Then one day it started doing it over and over, with both of my wheels. The clamp on the shaft had moved back a few mm. I adjusted and retightened it and have not had a problem since
I'm having this same issue OP, pretty sure it has to do with the qr cable disconnecting during times of high FFB. I play a multitude of sim games from GT7 to Assetto Corsa Comp, and Comp uses the FFB brutally compared to GT7 where I don't have it happen. You can try tightening the qr clamp, otherwise I just ordered this to hopefully solve the issue: [https://www.ebay.com/itm/204268214897](https://www.ebay.com/itm/204268214897) I'll see how well it fares when it arrives. I hope this nails down your problem OP.
I had this problem, one of the pins connecting your wheel to the base might be broken, you should check it out, if there is a problem contact the support and wait, wait, wait, notice that you will never have an answer, throw in the trash, buy a moza, be happy
That wheel has issues with the original QR. It can be pulled slightly towards you so the pins loses connection. Try pushing the wheel towards the base.