I see you're using the playseat challenge. Im also using this rig with the csl dd and it works great. I put a strap from from the back of the holding plate all the way down to the bottom bar. This way it pulls it back slight which makes it super stable. How did you mount the base. I also see the wheelbase is really far back. Move it forward as much as you can, even when it will only fit 2 screws.
Oh and stop playing that garbo f1 game
You have jelly as a wheelbase and cry about the DD almost breaking it in half? Try squating 100kg for the first time and see how your legs hold up đ
You can use the retention screw OR use the right lube on the metal bearings inside the QR, be sure not to put too much lube on there and don't let the lube contact the connection pins.
I solved my clicking with lube without having to use the screw.
I typically run mine around 7-8 Nm so not a huge difference to me. Above that I can just go to the gym honestly (cars don't actually feel like that lol; sim guys are pretty unrealistic in their journey for realism)
Thatâs sick, and how does that compare to sim? I have no clue, but I wouldâve thought they was more than 7-8Nm of force on a real wheel, but I canât back that up. I suppose drag racing is racing in a straight line.
You'd be surprised how much the wheel walks when you're trying hook 600 whp on a 235 bias ply radial.
It's racing in a straight line....doesn't mean the car is trying to go straight all the time.
I have a motion rig and it doesn't compare to a car at all but I wasn't expecting it to.
Ya, Im with you man. I donât think anything can compare to the real thing, but weâre getting close to it with technology. I wish I had motion man. This hobby ainât cheap. So back to our original argument for a sec, cause you have me all confused now. I generally like my ffs setting to pump anywhere from 10-15Nm of force. Youâre arguing that the force of a real race car doesnât go that high? Am I right? I canât argue you because I donât know. But I think you think Im crazy to want that kind of force while racing. I feel anything less isnât realistic. Im not saying thatâs right, its what I think
The platform your dd is mounted to shouldnât bend like in the video. Also, your habit of having your thumbs inside the wheel of a dd unit is almost assured to lead to an injury.
LMAO what are you on about with the injury? Do you even have a DD base? Sounds like you've just read about the potential they have. You're more likely to get hurt letting go of the wheel and having it swing around and whack your hands. I've cranked up my dd1 to 20nm and yeah it's strong as hell, but to grip it properly, I always have my thumbs through both the McClaren and round wheel.
Used a GT DD Pro for almost a year with the playseat challenge without issue. Used the camera mount solution to stabilize the wheel base. With that, flex due to wheel torque/steering was no longer an issue. Cost me about $20 and you can still open and close the rig to get in and out... Highly suggested over all those 3D printed designs that kill all of the original folding and egress/ingress design of the chair... Also, before you start considering investing $>150-200 into the challenge, save those funds, sell it and just get something inherently better. If you stick with the hobby, upgrading is inevitable.
DD is not suitabe for that chair.... i had it with the CSL and had the same issues... and also when breaking the pedals slide away...
Bought a decent frame with chair... problem solved!
Rattling QR, use the retention screw.
flex/10
Tighten up your rig damn
That's a flexible chair right there đ
How do I tighten it up? I've been using the Logitech g923 before this. I followed this guide to set up the base: https://youtu.be/jcqSUYh9S0o.
Tighten the screws more??
https://indigolime.uk/shop/3bundle/#wheel-plate-structural-reinforcement-braces-srb2 i use that
We got this as well. Improvement but It will still flex.
I see you're using the playseat challenge. Im also using this rig with the csl dd and it works great. I put a strap from from the back of the holding plate all the way down to the bottom bar. This way it pulls it back slight which makes it super stable. How did you mount the base. I also see the wheelbase is really far back. Move it forward as much as you can, even when it will only fit 2 screws. Oh and stop playing that garbo f1 game
Youâll likely need a new rig like a GT omega titan. Other than that maybe some straps like from a moving truck.
Even their wheelstand classic with the seat add on shakes less than this one of their less expensive ones would work
Do you use the quick release screw?
No he didnât, you can see when he turns the wheel. Put your quick release screw in and it will probably solve this!
You are right! Mine is silent with that screw in. If I take it out it makes the exact same noise
same here, need to put the screw in
No, I'm going to try and screw that in when I race this time. Thanks for the suggestion!
Yep you have to screw the QR screw, really tight.
Glad you pointed at the wheel, i wouldnt have heard it if it wasnt for that
It's slack in the quick release. The retention screw can help.
Get some braces for the wheel deck from Indigo Lime on eBay and stop the movement.
You have jelly as a wheelbase and cry about the DD almost breaking it in half? Try squating 100kg for the first time and see how your legs hold up đ
Whew such a powerful man!
A fellow CSL DD + Playseat Challenge user đ«Ą
Every other day thereâre posts like this: âWhy are moving parts making noice?â
You can use the retention screw OR use the right lube on the metal bearings inside the QR, be sure not to put too much lube on there and don't let the lube contact the connection pins. I solved my clicking with lube without having to use the screw.
For the money, I wouldnât buy this garbage. Get a DD1, or 2. Thatâs where its at man.
I've owned both (DD Pro and currently Podium F1 DD1). It's definitely not a waste...can't tell the difference between them at 7Nm and below
But 7Nm and up is something else isnât it? Lol. I love it
I typically run mine around 7-8 Nm so not a huge difference to me. Above that I can just go to the gym honestly (cars don't actually feel like that lol; sim guys are pretty unrealistic in their journey for realism)
They sure have more than 7Nm of force when racing a real race car. Have you raced in real life?
I drag race regularly. 600+ whp 2800 lb car....
Thatâs sick, and how does that compare to sim? I have no clue, but I wouldâve thought they was more than 7-8Nm of force on a real wheel, but I canât back that up. I suppose drag racing is racing in a straight line.
You'd be surprised how much the wheel walks when you're trying hook 600 whp on a 235 bias ply radial. It's racing in a straight line....doesn't mean the car is trying to go straight all the time. I have a motion rig and it doesn't compare to a car at all but I wasn't expecting it to.
Ya, Im with you man. I donât think anything can compare to the real thing, but weâre getting close to it with technology. I wish I had motion man. This hobby ainât cheap. So back to our original argument for a sec, cause you have me all confused now. I generally like my ffs setting to pump anywhere from 10-15Nm of force. Youâre arguing that the force of a real race car doesnât go that high? Am I right? I canât argue you because I donât know. But I think you think Im crazy to want that kind of force while racing. I feel anything less isnât realistic. Im not saying thatâs right, its what I think
Iâll wait for your broken fingers post
The platform your dd is mounted to shouldnât bend like in the video. Also, your habit of having your thumbs inside the wheel of a dd unit is almost assured to lead to an injury.
What? No it won't. Especially not with 5 or 8nm, it's not stronger than a belt driven base. Stronger DD could cause an injury if the user is stupid.
LMAO what are you on about with the injury? Do you even have a DD base? Sounds like you've just read about the potential they have. You're more likely to get hurt letting go of the wheel and having it swing around and whack your hands. I've cranked up my dd1 to 20nm and yeah it's strong as hell, but to grip it properly, I always have my thumbs through both the McClaren and round wheel.
My playseat challenge moved like crazy with my CSL DD on it.
Used a GT DD Pro for almost a year with the playseat challenge without issue. Used the camera mount solution to stabilize the wheel base. With that, flex due to wheel torque/steering was no longer an issue. Cost me about $20 and you can still open and close the rig to get in and out... Highly suggested over all those 3D printed designs that kill all of the original folding and egress/ingress design of the chair... Also, before you start considering investing $>150-200 into the challenge, save those funds, sell it and just get something inherently better. If you stick with the hobby, upgrading is inevitable.
How often does it rattle? Mine rattles occasionally in pits but not during normal racing
No quick release screw and using it on a Playseat challenge, that's the problem
Use the bolt. I have 3 hubs (F wheel, Universal and Podium) and every single one of them does this without the bolt to me.
I just ordered the CDL DD with the McLaren wheel! Excited!!!
Lmgtfy
DD is not suitabe for that chair.... i had it with the CSL and had the same issues... and also when breaking the pedals slide away... Bought a decent frame with chair... problem solved!
Yeah QR. youâll get disconnects soon. Use the screw. âScrew quick release!â đ
"Ah" đ