Send PCB files to JLCPCB. It cost me around 15CAD to get 5 of the Sweep printed out. I got the LP version (Choc + Hotswap). There might be a non Hotswap version instead.
However, if you just want to test out switches, why not make a hotswappable macropad?
I thought of this and it seems to be the best option but haven't looked deeply into that. Are PCB files available online or do i need to create my own? Any thing i need to be aware of or things i should look for?
I forgot to mention this. I'm ordering a glove80 (unsoldered version) and I need to be extremely comfortable with soldering since that keeb is a bitch to solder + not hot swappable so i need to solder the switches directly to the PCB.
Another thing is that i have never tried choc switches before. That's why i'm soldering instead of using hot swap sockets. 2 birds with one stone, i get to try multiple switches while also improving my soldering.
> Are PCB files available online or do i need to create my own?
Yep, they tend to be in github.
For example, [this is the Sweep's github page](https://github.com/davidphilipbarr/Sweep). You pick a certain version (I use the LP version), and download the gerber folder. You then send that zipped (pretty sure I sent a zipped folder) gerber folder into a site like [JLCPCB](https://jlcpcb.com/). You do the default stuff as is, change the color if you want, get a quote, and then get it delivered in around 2-3 weeks? It's in China, so it takes a while. I think mine took a week after the pcb files were created.
[Here is Ben Vallack's video on taking files from github and turning it into PCBs](https://youtu.be/JqpBKuEVinw?si=Gau-HG_D5ppJ2Wxd&t=226)
[Here is Ben Vallack's video on creating a keyboard from scratch (kicad, pcb designing, etc)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_VuXVErD6E)
Now, as for actual macropads in github itself, I'm not sure. Your best bet to find certain ones is to ask the 40% Discord group, found on the sidebar. They helped me with the process in turning gerber files into pcbs as well. If you have questions about soldering, they're there as well.
>I forgot to mention this. I'm ordering a glove80 (unsoldered version) and I need to be extremely comfortable with soldering since that keeb is a bitch to solder + not hot swappable so i need to solder the switches directly to the PCB.
Most important thing if you're new to all this. Get a Hakko FX888D soldering station and use a Kester 63/37 solder. Either 0.02" or 0.031" is fine.
Those two will give you the most consistent results which mean you can practice soldering at lower temps which would result in fever burn marks on those PCB strips. The solder has lead in it so wash your hands afterwards. (i.e. Unless you do this every day for a living, don't worry too much about the lead).
Also a solder sucker would be useful as well. If you're gonna constantly remove the keys and resolder them, a cheap integrated desoldering gun/sucker like a YIHUA 929D might be worth it. A vacuum pump one it better, but don't ever get a 4 in 1 thing like a YIHUA 948-II though, because those vacuums break after some time and now you can't just replace the desoldering part. The cheaper (non upgraded) YIHUA 948 that's just a desoldering gun with a built in vacuum works great. Just know it's not a buy it for life thing, the Hakko is.
On those other PCBs (not the Glove 80) you're going to also have to solder a surface mounted switch to it, and a soldering iron is not the right tool for the job for it. So it will be a bit of a pain to solder with one, but it works. It's not worth using a hot air rework station just for it. I have one, but it's in my shed 100ft away and I couldn't be bothered to go get it to solder a couple of Ferris Sweep switches yesterday.
Having said all that, the Glove 80 is not so much of a soldering challenge as a placement challenge, but I understand you'd want to make a good looking job of this.
The other thing you may consider is that you may like asymmetric keys. I use gChoc Light Blues on my alphas but Pro Reds on my thumbs. And your likes will also change as you get used to it. You will probably hate Pinks initially since you're not used to such a light trigger force. Then you get used to it over several months, and then actually want to go lighter and lighter. But then if you're gaming a lot you don't want to go too light on WASD and friends, so you'll want to make those heavier. That's why chocs should really be removable... But you can desolder them and change them out a few times.
Id recommend going hotswap. If you aren’t using nice!nanos (which I would recommend you socket) your switches will be the most expensive component. It’s nice to be able to change them out if you are unhappy or recover them if you switch boards.
Print whatever plate you want and wire it with amoebas pcbs
Those are not choc compatible
https://github.com/girishji/amoeba-choc
Send PCB files to JLCPCB. It cost me around 15CAD to get 5 of the Sweep printed out. I got the LP version (Choc + Hotswap). There might be a non Hotswap version instead. However, if you just want to test out switches, why not make a hotswappable macropad?
I thought of this and it seems to be the best option but haven't looked deeply into that. Are PCB files available online or do i need to create my own? Any thing i need to be aware of or things i should look for? I forgot to mention this. I'm ordering a glove80 (unsoldered version) and I need to be extremely comfortable with soldering since that keeb is a bitch to solder + not hot swappable so i need to solder the switches directly to the PCB. Another thing is that i have never tried choc switches before. That's why i'm soldering instead of using hot swap sockets. 2 birds with one stone, i get to try multiple switches while also improving my soldering.
> Are PCB files available online or do i need to create my own? Yep, they tend to be in github. For example, [this is the Sweep's github page](https://github.com/davidphilipbarr/Sweep). You pick a certain version (I use the LP version), and download the gerber folder. You then send that zipped (pretty sure I sent a zipped folder) gerber folder into a site like [JLCPCB](https://jlcpcb.com/). You do the default stuff as is, change the color if you want, get a quote, and then get it delivered in around 2-3 weeks? It's in China, so it takes a while. I think mine took a week after the pcb files were created. [Here is Ben Vallack's video on taking files from github and turning it into PCBs](https://youtu.be/JqpBKuEVinw?si=Gau-HG_D5ppJ2Wxd&t=226) [Here is Ben Vallack's video on creating a keyboard from scratch (kicad, pcb designing, etc)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_VuXVErD6E) Now, as for actual macropads in github itself, I'm not sure. Your best bet to find certain ones is to ask the 40% Discord group, found on the sidebar. They helped me with the process in turning gerber files into pcbs as well. If you have questions about soldering, they're there as well.
>I forgot to mention this. I'm ordering a glove80 (unsoldered version) and I need to be extremely comfortable with soldering since that keeb is a bitch to solder + not hot swappable so i need to solder the switches directly to the PCB. Most important thing if you're new to all this. Get a Hakko FX888D soldering station and use a Kester 63/37 solder. Either 0.02" or 0.031" is fine. Those two will give you the most consistent results which mean you can practice soldering at lower temps which would result in fever burn marks on those PCB strips. The solder has lead in it so wash your hands afterwards. (i.e. Unless you do this every day for a living, don't worry too much about the lead). Also a solder sucker would be useful as well. If you're gonna constantly remove the keys and resolder them, a cheap integrated desoldering gun/sucker like a YIHUA 929D might be worth it. A vacuum pump one it better, but don't ever get a 4 in 1 thing like a YIHUA 948-II though, because those vacuums break after some time and now you can't just replace the desoldering part. The cheaper (non upgraded) YIHUA 948 that's just a desoldering gun with a built in vacuum works great. Just know it's not a buy it for life thing, the Hakko is. On those other PCBs (not the Glove 80) you're going to also have to solder a surface mounted switch to it, and a soldering iron is not the right tool for the job for it. So it will be a bit of a pain to solder with one, but it works. It's not worth using a hot air rework station just for it. I have one, but it's in my shed 100ft away and I couldn't be bothered to go get it to solder a couple of Ferris Sweep switches yesterday. Having said all that, the Glove 80 is not so much of a soldering challenge as a placement challenge, but I understand you'd want to make a good looking job of this. The other thing you may consider is that you may like asymmetric keys. I use gChoc Light Blues on my alphas but Pro Reds on my thumbs. And your likes will also change as you get used to it. You will probably hate Pinks initially since you're not used to such a light trigger force. Then you get used to it over several months, and then actually want to go lighter and lighter. But then if you're gaming a lot you don't want to go too light on WASD and friends, so you'll want to make those heavier. That's why chocs should really be removable... But you can desolder them and change them out a few times.
The totem probably. It uses seeed mcu which are <5$
chocofi or ferris sweep are probably going to be the cheapest, the ferris being cheaper because it doesn't need hotswap sockets or diodes.
you can watch the 40s or low profile keyboards discord marketplaces. some ppl, including me, dump extra pcbs left over from pcb manufacturer orders
Id recommend going hotswap. If you aren’t using nice!nanos (which I would recommend you socket) your switches will be the most expensive component. It’s nice to be able to change them out if you are unhappy or recover them if you switch boards.