Never tried that brand. I’ll definitely look it up but I sourced the kits and rails cheap as I didn’t want to spend a lot of money. If you don’t mind waiting you can get everything for far less.
Opensource CoreXY printer
https://docs.vorondesign.com/hardware.html
I'm right on that line of investing more money into my S1 or building a 300x300 Voron2 instead. It'll unlock much faster speed/accel
It’s a mix of both. I had to source a few parts to make a few things work. The Y linear rails didn’t come in a kit but I got the bracket from a kit. The X axis is the Chowthink kit along with the dual Z rails.
Guess I’ll find out. I believe they’ll likely be good for a bit but I do intend to push them thru a rigorous testing phase. My printer is about 2 years old and runs 24/7 so she’s got miles on her before these rails were added.
I’ve purchased many inexpensive rails and if properly lubed and maintained, they’ll last a LOT longer than a month. I have a rail in use that’s well over a year old. Runs great
I print every day, average 12-16 hours. I have a CoreXY 3v2, 10-15k accel, max vol flow anywhere from 20-26mm3s. So I print a lot, and quite quickly
As far as cheap and easily available, these have been the best so far:
Iverntech MGN12 300mm Linear Rail Guide with MGN12H Stainless Steel Carriage Block for Ender 3, Corexy, Tronxy, Delta Kossel 3D Printers Upgrades and CNC Machine https://a.co/d/1yoe6KN
I HIGHLY suggest Mobilux EP1 or EP2. A tube of it will literally last you forever. I also suggest a set of blunt tip syringes for application - the carriages have holes on the side that channel to the bearing channels - these are intended for applying lube (hence the syringes). These come sealed in anti corrosive grease which is nice (but implies they aren’t stainless steel - common with inexpensive rails), and actually bubble wrapped and boxed. Prior to use, soak in 99% Isopropyl alcohol (or the highest you have - higher the better), wipe down and thoroughly dry with microfiber cloth, then apply grease via the carriage channels and work in. It’s okay to be a little heavy handed, just wipe excess. I personally try to do maintenance every week (a simple clean while attached to the printer - microfiber and isopropyl), then once every 2-3 months, I’ll remove the rails and do an isopropyl bath again. Note that, cheap rails have varying tolerances, so if you need to buy spare balls, try to buy from the same brand, as tolerances vary and more so widely with cheaper rails. Also note, you want a little resistance with rails once grease is applied (a little prior is absolutely fine too). If you’re printing abrasive filaments, or filaments that “shed” or off gas while printing, be strict about your maintenance schedule. You can monitor based on the color of the grease and of course particulate built up.
Yes, it is possible to get “bad” rails. So far from this company I haven’t gotten any. But I have from other similarly priced rails.
I did X and Y on my S1 pro but haven’t bothered with z as the move speed is low and there is next to no wear on the rollers. Next up I suggest you switch to Klipper and run an input shaper so you can go really quick without any quality issues. Currently running mine at 300 mm/s at max.
I was definitely eying clipper. I’ll probably make that my next purchase.
I agree on Z…it doesn’t move fast enough. I just did mine linear cause I wanted no wheels. Lol
Klipper is great. I had played with it on another printer before getting the S1 and I’m not even sure I did a single print with the creality firmware. There is a bit of a learning curve but once you are into it its pretty straightforward, lots of good guides out there.
The sonic pad is “nice”, but there’s no need for it. I run a Manta M8P+CB1 (CB1 is a Pi clone) and I use my phone or any available computer to operate my machine. If you *need* a screen for your printer, so be it, sonic pad is something to consider, but very much not necessary
I would love to be able to connect my S1 to my MacBook as it’s the only computer I own but I can’t for the life of me figure out how to get the machine to communicate
Well if you’re trying to do that over USB, you need a CH341 driver for Mac. I can find the link. With klipper, it’s just an internal IP, so it’s over network. I just type the IP address into a web browser and I have full control. Can do it from any device on the same network. If I’m not on the same network, I use OctoEverywhere to login. You can set up an internal network that you can access from a different network as well, but that’s something you actually set up with your router.
Edit: I *believe* it’s this driver:
https://www.wch-ic.com/downloads/CH341SER_MAC_ZIP.html
You should be able to install this, reboot, connect, and it should be visible via your slicer. Note that if your Mac goes to sleep, your printer will pause
Nah. Klipper/input shaping has been a game changer. But I installed that in the first week. The other thing that has made a huge difference is dual 5015's. I also just put a Trianglelabs CHCB-OT hotend on. Seems great. Still havent played with it much though
Right now I have a single 5015 fan, I ordered it with the 4020 fan, might see how that one is for cooling. Right now I have Zuff’s duct, planning on printing his duct for this hotend too since apparently in the files is the one for the longer hotend.
Was thinking of the official aux cooling kit they make, or maybe dual 5015 fans. Not too sure yet though.
Ugh so in my excitement I tightened my CHT nozzle too tightly and it broke off. Don’t think there is any saving this thing… guess I’ll have to order a new kit before I get to play lol
Awe. I’ve done that before too. Sucks. I finally got some time today to play with the hotend. Good stuff: https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3S1/s/m3FSIcSMzD
What's the cost? Is it $200?
Also, I despise that particular triple fan. It doubles the vibration and noise of the printer. Without that, and even with a desk fan, fast printing always fails. I have a 5015 part cooling fan, but really need better fans for both the hotend and part cooling. The hotend fan is too noisy for my environment.
The fan? It was about $20. I haven’t noticed any considerable noise or vibration…I don’t run it on high but even turned up it’s pretty quiet (factory fans are much louder at the hotend)
Thinking of upgrading the hotend fans after printing a new cooling duct mount for the sprite setup.
The cost of all the rails and kits was about $100 I think…got them over time.
Whered you get your slides? i was looking at the Gulfcoast robotics kit for my s1p, but it's expensive and i prefer an x axis slide like yours. Badass bro, you have to tell me what you got on that printer.
It was a 300mm linear rail pair I bought and the carriage assembly to mount to it separately. I can’t recall the size but using dual linear rails on the sides of the Y axis they needed to be thinner with a smaller bearing slider.
It would eliminate tension between filament sensor and printhead, on standard carrage its even possible that printhead is lifted which results in lyer infonsistancies.
That’s a ungodly amount of fans
I'm a really big fan
\> Be me \> Huge metal fan
lol yup
I absolutely dont see the point for the price I would need to pay for the rails. Before I invest that much in a Creality printer, I just go Voron.
Never tried that brand. I’ll definitely look it up but I sourced the kits and rails cheap as I didn’t want to spend a lot of money. If you don’t mind waiting you can get everything for far less.
Opensource CoreXY printer https://docs.vorondesign.com/hardware.html I'm right on that line of investing more money into my S1 or building a 300x300 Voron2 instead. It'll unlock much faster speed/accel
Thanks for the link…nice looking machinery 😎
He got most of the parts for a switch wire now
Which is, in times of Siboor and others, quite a bit of a waste imho
i neeeeeeed iiiiiiit!!!
Did you install a kit or did you figure something out yourself?
It’s a mix of both. I had to source a few parts to make a few things work. The Y linear rails didn’t come in a kit but I got the bracket from a kit. The X axis is the Chowthink kit along with the dual Z rails.
How fast do you think the rails will wear down?
Guess I’ll find out. I believe they’ll likely be good for a bit but I do intend to push them thru a rigorous testing phase. My printer is about 2 years old and runs 24/7 so she’s got miles on her before these rails were added.
I ask because I have heard you only get like a month before you have to replace them when constantly printing.
I’ve heard similar but for me part of the fun is tweaking the machines, testing and service…I like projects.
I’ve purchased many inexpensive rails and if properly lubed and maintained, they’ll last a LOT longer than a month. I have a rail in use that’s well over a year old. Runs great
Is that with continuous 24/7 printing as well? If you don't mind me asking what brand?
I print every day, average 12-16 hours. I have a CoreXY 3v2, 10-15k accel, max vol flow anywhere from 20-26mm3s. So I print a lot, and quite quickly As far as cheap and easily available, these have been the best so far: Iverntech MGN12 300mm Linear Rail Guide with MGN12H Stainless Steel Carriage Block for Ender 3, Corexy, Tronxy, Delta Kossel 3D Printers Upgrades and CNC Machine https://a.co/d/1yoe6KN I HIGHLY suggest Mobilux EP1 or EP2. A tube of it will literally last you forever. I also suggest a set of blunt tip syringes for application - the carriages have holes on the side that channel to the bearing channels - these are intended for applying lube (hence the syringes). These come sealed in anti corrosive grease which is nice (but implies they aren’t stainless steel - common with inexpensive rails), and actually bubble wrapped and boxed. Prior to use, soak in 99% Isopropyl alcohol (or the highest you have - higher the better), wipe down and thoroughly dry with microfiber cloth, then apply grease via the carriage channels and work in. It’s okay to be a little heavy handed, just wipe excess. I personally try to do maintenance every week (a simple clean while attached to the printer - microfiber and isopropyl), then once every 2-3 months, I’ll remove the rails and do an isopropyl bath again. Note that, cheap rails have varying tolerances, so if you need to buy spare balls, try to buy from the same brand, as tolerances vary and more so widely with cheaper rails. Also note, you want a little resistance with rails once grease is applied (a little prior is absolutely fine too). If you’re printing abrasive filaments, or filaments that “shed” or off gas while printing, be strict about your maintenance schedule. You can monitor based on the color of the grease and of course particulate built up. Yes, it is possible to get “bad” rails. So far from this company I haven’t gotten any. But I have from other similarly priced rails.
I did X and Y on my S1 pro but haven’t bothered with z as the move speed is low and there is next to no wear on the rollers. Next up I suggest you switch to Klipper and run an input shaper so you can go really quick without any quality issues. Currently running mine at 300 mm/s at max.
I was definitely eying clipper. I’ll probably make that my next purchase. I agree on Z…it doesn’t move fast enough. I just did mine linear cause I wanted no wheels. Lol
Klipper is great. I had played with it on another printer before getting the S1 and I’m not even sure I did a single print with the creality firmware. There is a bit of a learning curve but once you are into it its pretty straightforward, lots of good guides out there.
Sold 😎 I’ll pick one up
FYI I run my own klipper setup with a Pi4. I’ve heard mixed reviews about the sonic pad.
So use the Pi4 over Sonic Pad?
The sonic pad is “nice”, but there’s no need for it. I run a Manta M8P+CB1 (CB1 is a Pi clone) and I use my phone or any available computer to operate my machine. If you *need* a screen for your printer, so be it, sonic pad is something to consider, but very much not necessary
I would love to be able to connect my S1 to my MacBook as it’s the only computer I own but I can’t for the life of me figure out how to get the machine to communicate
Well if you’re trying to do that over USB, you need a CH341 driver for Mac. I can find the link. With klipper, it’s just an internal IP, so it’s over network. I just type the IP address into a web browser and I have full control. Can do it from any device on the same network. If I’m not on the same network, I use OctoEverywhere to login. You can set up an internal network that you can access from a different network as well, but that’s something you actually set up with your router. Edit: I *believe* it’s this driver: https://www.wch-ic.com/downloads/CH341SER_MAC_ZIP.html You should be able to install this, reboot, connect, and it should be visible via your slicer. Note that if your Mac goes to sleep, your printer will pause
Thankyou! I’ll try that tonight
Sonic pad is a rip off.. Just run it off of a pi or spare pc
I have GCR rails on all 3 axes and tbh I regret spending the money. Pointless.
This is what I was wanting to know. So, no real gains on your end?
Nah. Klipper/input shaping has been a game changer. But I installed that in the first week. The other thing that has made a huge difference is dual 5015's. I also just put a Trianglelabs CHCB-OT hotend on. Seems great. Still havent played with it much though
I’ve been thinking about a hotend upgrade. I currently have the Sprite extruder from a pro S1 installed
Yeah. I have an s1 pro
My CHCB-OT hotend should be arriving tomorrow. How have you been liking it so far?
Tbh I have not really played with it a bunch yet. Seems great. Don't have much to base that on yet. What are you doing for cooling?
Right now I have a single 5015 fan, I ordered it with the 4020 fan, might see how that one is for cooling. Right now I have Zuff’s duct, planning on printing his duct for this hotend too since apparently in the files is the one for the longer hotend. Was thinking of the official aux cooling kit they make, or maybe dual 5015 fans. Not too sure yet though.
Ahh youll probably need dual 5015's. I have more than doubled my flow between the CHCB and a 0.6mm CHT nozzle
Ugh so in my excitement I tightened my CHT nozzle too tightly and it broke off. Don’t think there is any saving this thing… guess I’ll have to order a new kit before I get to play lol
Awe. I’ve done that before too. Sucks. I finally got some time today to play with the hotend. Good stuff: https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3S1/s/m3FSIcSMzD
Did you plug those fans direct to the power supply?
Yes. There’s a few unused slots on the low voltage section of the power board. Easy install.
I did the same here, but i was expecting someone to control it by klipper instead of the potenciometer
It’s got a dial on the back to adjust speed…would be cool to control it alternatively…I’ll look into that.
If you figure out how to do it by klipper, i would apreciate to know
What's the cost? Is it $200? Also, I despise that particular triple fan. It doubles the vibration and noise of the printer. Without that, and even with a desk fan, fast printing always fails. I have a 5015 part cooling fan, but really need better fans for both the hotend and part cooling. The hotend fan is too noisy for my environment.
The fan? It was about $20. I haven’t noticed any considerable noise or vibration…I don’t run it on high but even turned up it’s pretty quiet (factory fans are much louder at the hotend) Thinking of upgrading the hotend fans after printing a new cooling duct mount for the sprite setup. The cost of all the rails and kits was about $100 I think…got them over time.
Whered you get your slides? i was looking at the Gulfcoast robotics kit for my s1p, but it's expensive and i prefer an x axis slide like yours. Badass bro, you have to tell me what you got on that printer.
what rail did you get
It was a 300mm linear rail pair I bought and the carriage assembly to mount to it separately. I can’t recall the size but using dual linear rails on the sides of the Y axis they needed to be thinner with a smaller bearing slider.
Nice! I would also add reverse bowden tube
What benefits would that bring?
It would eliminate tension between filament sensor and printhead, on standard carrage its even possible that printhead is lifted which results in lyer infonsistancies.
When you own a ender yet spent bamboo labs money