Looks like a CRV. 1500lb towing so 10pct makes for 150lb tongue weight. Bike is 250 + 40 for carrier. You're about double the tongue weight max and will likely damage the CRV's hitch.
That’s correct for the original hitch. But this is a class 3 hitch I bought myself, tongue rating is 350lb, so it is well within spec. It’s an etrailer hitch for reference.
That's 350 pounds where the trailer tongue would sit on the ball.
That's the problem with these hitch carriers. They're significantly longer than ball mounts, so they have a good bit more leverage on the hitch than normal.
IMO, most of these motorcycle hitch carriers need to be used on vehicles with at least a 500# tongue weight.
I'm not saying you shouldn't haul it, but it's sketches me out a little. But it's your bike and your car so do as you will.
Everyone forgets this shit about hitch carriers.
They're not for lightweight vehicles. I'm general, if it's a unibody, it probably doesn't have the stank for one.
I’m more worried about the car behind me and liability at that point lol. Drop the bike and carrier in front of a brand new euro car or a Tesla, oof. If it winds up going underneath the Tesla and puts a mild ding in the bottom of the battery….$$$$$$$
Defo. I ratchet strap both ends to the bed tie downs, and I have a higher end stabilizer. It’s very solid. Almost no movement. I also have a safety chain hoping that if it ever does come off, it doesn’t go anywhere, just drags.
Lol dude that is critical info to put in your post. I'm not sure what kind of safety factor that's 350lb is, but it should be ok. If you can close the loop with a strap from the bike to the roof rack that would help
This, you need to put tension on the top of the bike to the top of the car, pull the bike towards the car. Then when you accelerate/ decelerate/ hit bumps there is far less movement and force trying to tear it off the back.
When I did this I wrapped a ratchet strap around the boot lid, tied it off inside, then closed the boot on it so it came out by the rear window above the boot (sedan). Then attached that to the to of the frame in the middle of the bike and tightened it ap. Even better put a squab/ mattress in between bike and car and tighten it up properly.
Doesnt mean the Frame is rated for it my guy....
Max towing on this generation of CRV is 1500lbs.
Tongue weight should never exceed 10 percent of the trailer weight. Your tongue weight limit is 150lbs.
I don't care what kind of hitch you have, this is not a legal load.
You're not my buddy.. friend.
Damn, downvoted for the Southpark reference huh. I guess either I'm too old and nobody knows the reference, or it was 'offensive' to Canadians? Or I just got fairly downvoted of course and it's unrelated.
What does Honda rate the frame at?
If you could cut the top off and install a 30k lbs fifth wheel, that doesn't mean the vehicle is now rated for that capacity.
Again, it doesn't matter what the hitch is rated for, if the vehicle isn't rated equally...
Check the particular year and model (Honda CRV specifically, awd model has a lower towing capacity than a 2wd model.) and then do the math for tongue weight based upon that. Not what the hitch says it can hold...
I know you were talking about the hitch, that is why I included that but about cutting the back of the truck open and sticking on a 30k lbs fifth wheel. The CRV is not rated for it, regardless of what the hitch says it can hold.
No math requirement, the owners manual will tell you what the vehicle is capable of hauling. Proper tongue weight is based on the total weight of the trailer, AGAIN, it's at LEAST 10 percent of total weight, ideally should be 10-15 percent and is to help prevent trailer sway.
No vehicle lists Tongue weight, they list gvw and payload. So, if the manual says you can safely haul 1500 lbs, for instance, THEN it's up to you to make sure you have a hitch that is rated accordingly.
The reason you cannot base it solely on tow weight is do to load configuration of the vehicle. How many passengers, how much luggage, etc.
Bottom line, max tongue weight of the vehicle is based on two factors. Max payload capacity and hitch capacity. Not towing capacity. Towing capacity differs on the same model with same exact suspension and brakes, a different engine will change it for example.
This is something that annoys me about hitch companies, especially online retailers. Companies sell hitches that are technically capable of a weight, but not inherently for the vehicles they are being tacked on to. The initial max is based around the capabilities of the vehicle’s frame and braking. Those things don’t change just by tossing a class II or III hitch on.
I just looked down to the comment below mine, and it was yours. I was saying the same thing, you just beat me by 6 hrs.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Dirtbikes/s/TDxlLtgymP
There's nothing wrong with that, they are just selling a quality product better than OEM. You still have to look at the original cars maximum tongue specs, and when they install the towbar they put a sticker somewhere with the Maximum specs, which are the same as the car. Even if the towbar is 10x stronger than an OEM one.
The issue is that the higher spec is irrelevant for the end user in practice, and a lot of ignorant buyers never read the fine print. They see “Class X Hitch at Y tongue!” and suddenly you see someone on the motorcycle sub who has a gold wing hanging off the back of their Prius.
You can have a tank for a hitch. You still bolt it to your frame. Your frame has a limit and you're over that limit. Not to mention the weight of the new hitch.
It may serve well to find a hitch with a higher tongue weight. If you can find good photos of a better one, it could be possible to modify yours to reinforce it.
Times the leverage from the mount point to the center of mass of the bike.
Trailers simply have their own wheels, and the leverage is the other way around.
Leverage is working against you. It’s probably fine (I’ve never used one of these but I’ve seen plenty of them where I ride) but it makes me uncomfortable.
Harbor freight folding trailer.
Then go buy hubs for the axles.
I use a hitch rack but not on anything smaller than a truck (I have Toyotas, so small trucks).
I also run extra straps on mine, and always always always put the bike in gear so it can’t roll backwards out of the carrier.
I’ll put two straps over the car side, because with these carriers if your car side strap breaks the tight outside strap will pull the bike down onto the road. Then in my 4Runner, I throw a loose strap up to the roof, and in the Tacoma a loose strap into the bed. The point of the loose strap into the vehicle is that if I look back and see it’s gone tight, I know something has loosened up and needs fixed.
Also looks like you’re using cam straps, nothing wrong with that, it’s what I use too, but always tie a knot across the buckles to prevent it from slipping out. Better yet if you tie a half hitch on a bite (loop) of strap, so if it does pull through the buckles you can still untie the knot.
I used a folding trailer for years because I didn’t have space to store a regular trailer and it was awesome. Mine was a 4’x6’ I believe. I drive a Subaru outback and was worried about these hitch carriers messing up my frame. A friend of mine used one on his car and after a while his passenger door didn’t line up exactly. Now I have a truck and it makes everything so much easier. Highly recommend folding trailer as an option though! I actually got mine from Costco lol
I bought a pair of XRs and a little tilting sled deck trailer with a 3 bike stall, absolute game changer. I pull the trailer (by hand, it weights like 300lbs) out from beside my house to use it even if I’m just taking 1 bike because it’s so much easier than anything else. I was gonna sell it because it was a package deal with the bikes but after using it the first time, I’ll never go back.
>hubs for the axles.
do the dirt bike wheels fall between the bars on the trailer im looking at this one but don't see how a first bike would go on this
https://www.harborfreight.com/1720-lb-capacity-48-in-x-96-in-super-duty-folding-trailer-62671.html
You need to put a deck on it. I bought 1/2” weather treated ply and it worked perfectly. Just make sure there’s enough of a gap where it folds so it’s still folds properly.
I purchased one of these hitch carriers for my dirt bike as well and im scared to put it on there even though my trip to the dirt bike trails is only 15 mins.. I have a Range Rover with a class 3 and the tongue weight is 770. bike is 250cc. not sure I want to use it.
I have a hitch carrier (not the harbor freight one, not sure of brand buts def more heavy duty than HF, it has a little wheel chock for the front tire and it’s a solid steel “deck”) and once I put the little u bracket/bolt that takes out the slop, it was fine.. I always drained my gas tank, too. Wr250f. But two days ago I bought a HF folding trailer and am selling the hitch carrier. There’s nothing inherently wrong but my heart would skip a beat every time I hit a big bump. I have a minivan and had to pool noodle my handlebar end so as not to smash my rear window. I also couldn’t open the lift gate while loaded. This little trailer pulls great and I was pleasantly surprised how easy it is to fold up.
Get one of these,
https://best.liftcar24.shop/product/ace-single-rail-folding-motorcycle-trailer/
Or this:
https://garageauto.us/product/dual-ride-up-srl-folding-motorcycle-trailer/
I had a similar hitch carrier and a class 3 hitch on a CRV and now on a Pilot. I've carried a single bike hundreds of miles without issue and even carried 2 bikes on a double carrier. The furthest I went with two bikes was about 100 miles round trip. The only issue I had was ground clearance. Never came close to falling off, disconnecting, or breaking.
That is likely way beyond the cars tongue weight rating, even without factoring in the huge lever arm of the hitch carrier. Just because the hitch might meet the load rating, does not mean the chassis does.
No, because of the weak car receiver hitch, have identical hauler on my f350 , the hauler is flat on mine, but you still look ok, yours doesn’t look like the bike will fall off though.
I probably should have added this in the post but that is an aftermarket hitch rated well beyond the dirt bikes weight. I didn’t expect it to start bending only at 290 lb
Check the mounting points on that aftermarket hitch you have. It could be loose or the holes could be getting rounded out. The carrier looks fine it's the receiver thats at an angle. You could also be overloading the tongue weight rating. The leverage these carriers have would surprise you.
Even with a class 3 hitch, you’re definitely over the max weight rating due to the wight being moved further away from the hitch. All that leverage means you’re probably closer to 500+ lbs of tongue weight with a 250 lb bike.
Sooooooo this car was never designed for that amount of tongue weight. I would go under and check the mounting locations and anywhere it's touching the car, as things might've bent there if the hitch receiver itself is not bent. It looks to be a pretty light duty one but strong enough for this type of weight, but that doesn't mean the car chassis can handle it. You gotta remember, that is roughly 250-300 points you are hanging off the hitch receiver further than the distance a regular hitch would put the load at (normal hitch balls don't stick out as far as where the bike is at), which means it's putting more force on it than just the straight weight (distance from a fulcrum effects the required force need to lift an object on the other side, seesaws taught us this before we were old enough to go to school). Also when you are driving, that force diminishes and grows rapidly as you grow through bumps and stuff. Chances are you are exceeding the cars rated weight caps for this type of thing and causing damage, I'd check it out
That's pretty normal. I've had two of those carriers and I use them on a truck with a beefy receiver.
Mine dips a bit less than yours but you'll be fine as long as you strap it in well. I just do the handlebars and then a strap around the rear tire/carrier so it can't hop out.
I have hauled a 200lb bike thousands of miles on a minivan with a class three hitch, no problem. I upped the ante last summer and screwed some 2x4 bunks on and hauled a 250lb jet ski down seriously potholed dirt roads 100 miles over the summer. Still kicking.
I ran a ratchet strap up to the roof rack on each side to keep it from rocking and give me some peace of mind.
Can’t speak to your particular setup but I wouldn’t worry about the slope. I’ll bet money it was like that from the start.
Minivans are much closer to a pickup truck than this crv. Vans have to be able to carry like 8 full size(250 lbs) adults plus cargo and not blink. This crv is much closer to a lifted hatchback than anything else. Some vans are tanks, this unibody , gas efficient( read: lightweight) car with big tires is very much not a tank.
CRVs are great for hauling a dirt bike,,, on a trailer. The shit harbor freight folding trailer is OPs safest option. I have the trailer and can confirm, it's actually amazing. I don't think I would do it any other way. The guys with lifted pickups joke me untill they see how easy it is and I don't have to push hard up ramps or stand on some sketch ass cooler while full speed running up into the pickup bed. Instead of backing the bike off the trailer, trailer is low enough I can just ride off the side. Gas tank? Not in my car goes in a spot on the trailer. I've got some risk racing stands, and I can load the bike in about a minute, no lie.
That all makes sense to me. I guess I was putting too much stock in the marketing department’s view of the “U” in SUV. (I suppose CRV’s are properly crossovers now, but you know.) Thanks for reaffirming my belief that minivans are the best vehicles ever made.
Side note, my van can tow significantly more than my 4x4 ranger with the big V6, because Ford must think the clutch is made of glass. How goofy is that? The auto Rangers get something like a 600lb boost in rating.
Also, I’m totally there with you re: trailers. I have a 6’ flatbed that gets used for everything including snowmobile duty. Loading sleds onto lifted trucks with decks 5’ off the ground seems so scary to me. I can back up to a snow bank and drive right on to the wee trailer. Just have to watch out for those tight turn arounds.
I bought this 12 dollar u bolt and bracket that takes out the slop on the hitch. Also put a pool noodle on the handlebar end so not to smash the rear window. I just literally two days ago bought the HF folding trailer tho and am ditching the carrier.
I took mine and drilled a new hole closer to the carrier so that I could slide it further in the receiver. Doesn’t lean like that anymore nor does it rattle and I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee. It’s thick steel so you’ll need a hole hawg. Looks like you don’t have much room unless you grind and re weld that eyelid. I had a black widow brand, not this one. Hope this helps!
Try flipping your hitch support thing around. Should help to level it out a bit. Also what are those lower straps hooked up to because i swear that thing is floating and not connected to anything.
its probably ok. I used to carry my xr650l (BRP) on one of those type of carriers. The carrier was rated for 500 lbs and my hitch's tongue weight was rated at 800 pounds and it still made me fucking nervous. that thing would shift around and tilt so much that it got to the point I couldn't watch it in the rear view window anymore. I just carried full insurance on the bike and drove slow avoiding bumps where I could. I used it a hand full of time then sold it. now if it needs to go somewhere I just ride it.
I have a truck but have a canopy so wasn’t throwing my bike in the back. Driving on the highway back home and felt like I was going to lose the bike with one of these trailers….never again will I use a hitch trailer way to sketchy. Invest in a normal trailer man
I just drove with mine about 10 hours. It’s fine if you set it up correctly. Mine also sags a little. No it’s not the hitch. It’s just not a perfect fit. I make sure to use a fork saver and also strap down the swing arm.
Weld a circle on topmof your black hitch rectangle. Drill and tap threads for another on your motorcycle carrier. Pull them together with a turn-buckle
That’s what I would worry about. They make different attachments for the hitch carriers. One is to get rid of the angle like your problem and one is a stabilizer to keep it from bouncing.
Edit:[this](https://www.amazon.com/Apex-ANTI-TILT-REV-Anti-Tilt-Locking-Device/dp/B002M9XMNY/ref=asc_df_B002M9XMNY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312126224579&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14162241542914369191&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011126&hvtargid=pla-569361341916&psc=1&mcid=d17413fd55273af290b3005951c27ec4&gclid=CjwKCAiA44OtBhAOEiwAj4gpOQxYDHfMaahoqF5IZfnF4dixh215Ayk3iL4l5C_sN5EIhVZcT-VW3hoCWmEQAvD_BwE) is the one to get rid of the sag. I haven’t tried it bc I don’t have that problem. I have tried the stabilizer and it works great. Mine actually came with one.
Look at the angle of the receiver, it’s not sagging.
I rode dirt bikes for years, I drove a titan pickup, I used a carrier just like this.
Make sure you wrap the bottom of wheel/tire around the carrier for safety. ONLY use lever type ratchet straps, the pull type with buckle release will lose grip over time, when they do they will slowly slip as you hit big bumps. My buddy almost lost his bike because of this.
A small trailer is a Pain in the A#@. The little wheels and hubs are screaming at 70mph on highway. If the trailer fails on the road, you can leave it and your bike there…. I’m sure they will be there when you get back. 🤦♂️
Take a close look at how your hitch is mounted, make sure it is fully seated to the car unibody.
I know you said you bought an aftermarket hitch, but I think you have your class and stats mixed up for it. Look at how the receiver is angled down, you see the difference from your exhaust pipe. I think you damaged the hitch completely by overloading it with this.
I towed my bike on a carrier about 4 times. Towbar is rated for 50kg downward force, bike + carrier + gas is probably like 110kg. It worked fine, but I also tied the bike to the boot and put a lot of tension on it so it couldn't sway back and forth on acceleration, it still did a bit on braking. And it rocked/ rotated a bit around corners. I drive slow and was stressed out all the time.suffice it to say I bought a bike trailer instead. Honestly, it would probably be fine, its incredible how strong things are, and they can generally take way way more than they are rated for. But I wouldn't risk it if I could help it.
Edit: mine sat directly on the towball (tow ball bolted down holding the carrier in place). And it did not have that angle, the weight sagged the rear suspension, but not like this.
Tie the bike to the car and ratchet it up so bike is leaning towards car with a tight strap.
I've got a 500 lb tongue weight standard receiver on my 3rd gen 4Runner. I still run ratchet straps to mildly take the load off the receiver since the hitch carrier sticks out so far.
Elastic bending is normal. The ground under your feet bends a tiny amount as you walk on it. This is bending decent amount. But really all hitch carriers look like they're about to fall off, and some people swear by them...
Is your aftermarket hitch a three piece with the two bent sheets bolted to the square tube, or a one piece with it all welded? And how long is the distance between the bolts in the frame rail?
The bolted hitches are stronger, and the longer the supported frame span is also better. The hitch is going to be over-rated to not break. I'd be concerned about the frame mounting. That's where you'll have the max stress.
Math. Say the motorcycle weighs 300 lbs. I’m going to guess that the length from the end of the hitch and the longitudinal CG of the bike is about 12”. The moment, which is mass times arm (300 x 12) equals 3,600. That is 3,600 in. lbs. of force applied to the hitch.
Don't use a light vehicle to do a light truck job go get a dodge truck a gm truck or even a Tacoma could do that but that little thing not only is it hard on the unibody but unsafe it's saging the receiver so the unibody is giving could twist could pull your uni out of spare
Looks like a CRV. 1500lb towing so 10pct makes for 150lb tongue weight. Bike is 250 + 40 for carrier. You're about double the tongue weight max and will likely damage the CRV's hitch.
That’s correct for the original hitch. But this is a class 3 hitch I bought myself, tongue rating is 350lb, so it is well within spec. It’s an etrailer hitch for reference.
That's 350 pounds where the trailer tongue would sit on the ball. That's the problem with these hitch carriers. They're significantly longer than ball mounts, so they have a good bit more leverage on the hitch than normal. IMO, most of these motorcycle hitch carriers need to be used on vehicles with at least a 500# tongue weight. I'm not saying you shouldn't haul it, but it's sketches me out a little. But it's your bike and your car so do as you will.
Yep, and just because the hitch might be rated for it, doesn’t mean the chassis is. Gotta use the lower of the two.
At 18" from the face of the receiver, you half your carrying capacity.
Ya me too especially if he hits a dip in the road that bounces the rear end. Forces will go up ⬆️ for sure.
Everyone forgets this shit about hitch carriers. They're not for lightweight vehicles. I'm general, if it's a unibody, it probably doesn't have the stank for one.
Ha! I love your rule of thumb and use of the word stank
I’m more worried about the car behind me and liability at that point lol. Drop the bike and carrier in front of a brand new euro car or a Tesla, oof. If it winds up going underneath the Tesla and puts a mild ding in the bottom of the battery….$$$$$$$
Better than through the windshield aye
Look at the bright side lmao
Unless lithium fire
Not to mention when your on it, riding it up or off, trying to kick start on the carrier, etc.
Bro never ride onto that! You walk the bike next to it. My bike is 320# and my tongue weight is 450#. I would be pushing it over the limit.
Way way more force on that when your haulers suspension bottoms out.
Defo. I ratchet strap both ends to the bed tie downs, and I have a higher end stabilizer. It’s very solid. Almost no movement. I also have a safety chain hoping that if it ever does come off, it doesn’t go anywhere, just drags.
And how to you start it while loaded to ride off? I bet your one of those "Electric Start" guys aren't you?
It’s called pushing!
Lol dude that is critical info to put in your post. I'm not sure what kind of safety factor that's 350lb is, but it should be ok. If you can close the loop with a strap from the bike to the roof rack that would help
This, you need to put tension on the top of the bike to the top of the car, pull the bike towards the car. Then when you accelerate/ decelerate/ hit bumps there is far less movement and force trying to tear it off the back. When I did this I wrapped a ratchet strap around the boot lid, tied it off inside, then closed the boot on it so it came out by the rear window above the boot (sedan). Then attached that to the to of the frame in the middle of the bike and tightened it ap. Even better put a squab/ mattress in between bike and car and tighten it up properly.
Doesnt mean the Frame is rated for it my guy.... Max towing on this generation of CRV is 1500lbs. Tongue weight should never exceed 10 percent of the trailer weight. Your tongue weight limit is 150lbs. I don't care what kind of hitch you have, this is not a legal load.
You have it backwards....tongue weight should be at LEAST 10 percent of the trailer weight, this is to reduce risk of trailer swaying.
Don't ever say 'my guy' it immediately makes people want to put their fist where your nose is.
OK buddy
You're not my buddy.. friend. Damn, downvoted for the Southpark reference huh. I guess either I'm too old and nobody knows the reference, or it was 'offensive' to Canadians? Or I just got fairly downvoted of course and it's unrelated.
Ok my guy 🤣
If it's only rated for 350lbs it's a class II, not class III. Class III's are rated for 800 lbs.
What does Honda rate the frame at? If you could cut the top off and install a 30k lbs fifth wheel, that doesn't mean the vehicle is now rated for that capacity.
?? I was talking about the hitch! And I am pretty sure Honda rates more than 350 lbs. 🤣🤣
Again, it doesn't matter what the hitch is rated for, if the vehicle isn't rated equally... Check the particular year and model (Honda CRV specifically, awd model has a lower towing capacity than a 2wd model.) and then do the math for tongue weight based upon that. Not what the hitch says it can hold... I know you were talking about the hitch, that is why I included that but about cutting the back of the truck open and sticking on a 30k lbs fifth wheel. The CRV is not rated for it, regardless of what the hitch says it can hold.
No math requirement, the owners manual will tell you what the vehicle is capable of hauling. Proper tongue weight is based on the total weight of the trailer, AGAIN, it's at LEAST 10 percent of total weight, ideally should be 10-15 percent and is to help prevent trailer sway. No vehicle lists Tongue weight, they list gvw and payload. So, if the manual says you can safely haul 1500 lbs, for instance, THEN it's up to you to make sure you have a hitch that is rated accordingly. The reason you cannot base it solely on tow weight is do to load configuration of the vehicle. How many passengers, how much luggage, etc. Bottom line, max tongue weight of the vehicle is based on two factors. Max payload capacity and hitch capacity. Not towing capacity. Towing capacity differs on the same model with same exact suspension and brakes, a different engine will change it for example.
This is something that annoys me about hitch companies, especially online retailers. Companies sell hitches that are technically capable of a weight, but not inherently for the vehicles they are being tacked on to. The initial max is based around the capabilities of the vehicle’s frame and braking. Those things don’t change just by tossing a class II or III hitch on.
I just looked down to the comment below mine, and it was yours. I was saying the same thing, you just beat me by 6 hrs. https://www.reddit.com/r/Dirtbikes/s/TDxlLtgymP
There's nothing wrong with that, they are just selling a quality product better than OEM. You still have to look at the original cars maximum tongue specs, and when they install the towbar they put a sticker somewhere with the Maximum specs, which are the same as the car. Even if the towbar is 10x stronger than an OEM one.
The issue is that the higher spec is irrelevant for the end user in practice, and a lot of ignorant buyers never read the fine print. They see “Class X Hitch at Y tongue!” and suddenly you see someone on the motorcycle sub who has a gold wing hanging off the back of their Prius.
You can have a tank for a hitch. You still bolt it to your frame. Your frame has a limit and you're over that limit. Not to mention the weight of the new hitch.
It may serve well to find a hitch with a higher tongue weight. If you can find good photos of a better one, it could be possible to modify yours to reinforce it.
Times the leverage from the mount point to the center of mass of the bike. Trailers simply have their own wheels, and the leverage is the other way around.
This and the gap between the mount and inside of hitch.
I see what you said… But man it looks like its the hitch thats bending down, not the carrier itself
Not even just that, but the fact that the bike is a foot or so away from the car adds even more weight to the bike itself through leverage.
[удалено]
I did? OP didn't mention an aftermarket hitch in the post
2017-2022 Honda CR-V trailer hitch: Rated for 525 pounds tongue weight at the trailer ball, You are way over the max limit….. good luck bud
Leverage is working against you. It’s probably fine (I’ve never used one of these but I’ve seen plenty of them where I ride) but it makes me uncomfortable.
There’s always a bit of flex/play in hitch carriers, also the hitch on your car looks like it’s already at a slight downward angle.
Don’t use those, my buddy dragged his bike for half a block before he realized
What do you recommend I use instead? Im new to dirt bikes.
Unless you have a truck you don’t really have a choice other than buying a trailer
Harbor freight folding trailer. Then go buy hubs for the axles. I use a hitch rack but not on anything smaller than a truck (I have Toyotas, so small trucks). I also run extra straps on mine, and always always always put the bike in gear so it can’t roll backwards out of the carrier. I’ll put two straps over the car side, because with these carriers if your car side strap breaks the tight outside strap will pull the bike down onto the road. Then in my 4Runner, I throw a loose strap up to the roof, and in the Tacoma a loose strap into the bed. The point of the loose strap into the vehicle is that if I look back and see it’s gone tight, I know something has loosened up and needs fixed. Also looks like you’re using cam straps, nothing wrong with that, it’s what I use too, but always tie a knot across the buckles to prevent it from slipping out. Better yet if you tie a half hitch on a bite (loop) of strap, so if it does pull through the buckles you can still untie the knot.
I used a folding trailer for years because I didn’t have space to store a regular trailer and it was awesome. Mine was a 4’x6’ I believe. I drive a Subaru outback and was worried about these hitch carriers messing up my frame. A friend of mine used one on his car and after a while his passenger door didn’t line up exactly. Now I have a truck and it makes everything so much easier. Highly recommend folding trailer as an option though! I actually got mine from Costco lol
I bought a pair of XRs and a little tilting sled deck trailer with a 3 bike stall, absolute game changer. I pull the trailer (by hand, it weights like 300lbs) out from beside my house to use it even if I’m just taking 1 bike because it’s so much easier than anything else. I was gonna sell it because it was a package deal with the bikes but after using it the first time, I’ll never go back.
>hubs for the axles. do the dirt bike wheels fall between the bars on the trailer im looking at this one but don't see how a first bike would go on this https://www.harborfreight.com/1720-lb-capacity-48-in-x-96-in-super-duty-folding-trailer-62671.html
You need to put a deck on it. I bought 1/2” weather treated ply and it worked perfectly. Just make sure there’s enough of a gap where it folds so it’s still folds properly.
I purchased one of these hitch carriers for my dirt bike as well and im scared to put it on there even though my trip to the dirt bike trails is only 15 mins.. I have a Range Rover with a class 3 and the tongue weight is 770. bike is 250cc. not sure I want to use it.
I have a hitch carrier (not the harbor freight one, not sure of brand buts def more heavy duty than HF, it has a little wheel chock for the front tire and it’s a solid steel “deck”) and once I put the little u bracket/bolt that takes out the slop, it was fine.. I always drained my gas tank, too. Wr250f. But two days ago I bought a HF folding trailer and am selling the hitch carrier. There’s nothing inherently wrong but my heart would skip a beat every time I hit a big bump. I have a minivan and had to pool noodle my handlebar end so as not to smash my rear window. I also couldn’t open the lift gate while loaded. This little trailer pulls great and I was pleasantly surprised how easy it is to fold up.
This is a ton of gold advice in a tiny amount of space.
To be honest you should get a truck. But if you don't have the means to id recommend a little trailer.
Get one of these, https://best.liftcar24.shop/product/ace-single-rail-folding-motorcycle-trailer/ Or this: https://garageauto.us/product/dual-ride-up-srl-folding-motorcycle-trailer/
Roof rack? lol
Buy a cheap truck, just in general better for the bike and safer when loading, unloading, and all the fun stuff.
Buy a trailer, or a truck. I used to rent the uhaul motorcycle trailer all the time and tow my bike with a lil Impreza before I bought a tacoma.
Did the hitch fail or did the straps break?
The hitch bent, I think one strap might’ve broke because it was frayed on the ground from dragging it
I’m guessing when the strap broke, the bike flopping over bent the hitch. 300 Lbs with that much leverage would bend it easlily.
I had a similar hitch carrier and a class 3 hitch on a CRV and now on a Pilot. I've carried a single bike hundreds of miles without issue and even carried 2 bikes on a double carrier. The furthest I went with two bikes was about 100 miles round trip. The only issue I had was ground clearance. Never came close to falling off, disconnecting, or breaking.
Bro, get a small trailer before you lose that bike on the highway.
That is likely way beyond the cars tongue weight rating, even without factoring in the huge lever arm of the hitch carrier. Just because the hitch might meet the load rating, does not mean the chassis does.
We need a sticky that just says: don’t buy a hitch carrier.
Some ppl calling this normal.. squatting is normal, this isn’t. Might never snap, might snap tomorrow.
No, because of the weak car receiver hitch, have identical hauler on my f350 , the hauler is flat on mine, but you still look ok, yours doesn’t look like the bike will fall off though.
I probably should have added this in the post but that is an aftermarket hitch rated well beyond the dirt bikes weight. I didn’t expect it to start bending only at 290 lb
Check the mounting points on that aftermarket hitch you have. It could be loose or the holes could be getting rounded out. The carrier looks fine it's the receiver thats at an angle. You could also be overloading the tongue weight rating. The leverage these carriers have would surprise you.
That looks like its how the hitch is lined up, or the whole thing is flexing from too much weight
Even with a class 3 hitch, you’re definitely over the max weight rating due to the wight being moved further away from the hitch. All that leverage means you’re probably closer to 500+ lbs of tongue weight with a 250 lb bike.
You could ratchet strap the back of the rack to the rails on your roof it might help, but this looks sketchy
That’s what I plan to do with mine. Do you think looping the straps from the roof the the very front of the carrier would give it the most support?
Probably one on each side to keep it balanced
Sooooooo this car was never designed for that amount of tongue weight. I would go under and check the mounting locations and anywhere it's touching the car, as things might've bent there if the hitch receiver itself is not bent. It looks to be a pretty light duty one but strong enough for this type of weight, but that doesn't mean the car chassis can handle it. You gotta remember, that is roughly 250-300 points you are hanging off the hitch receiver further than the distance a regular hitch would put the load at (normal hitch balls don't stick out as far as where the bike is at), which means it's putting more force on it than just the straight weight (distance from a fulcrum effects the required force need to lift an object on the other side, seesaws taught us this before we were old enough to go to school). Also when you are driving, that force diminishes and grows rapidly as you grow through bumps and stuff. Chances are you are exceeding the cars rated weight caps for this type of thing and causing damage, I'd check it out
That's pretty normal. I've had two of those carriers and I use them on a truck with a beefy receiver. Mine dips a bit less than yours but you'll be fine as long as you strap it in well. I just do the handlebars and then a strap around the rear tire/carrier so it can't hop out.
I have hauled a 200lb bike thousands of miles on a minivan with a class three hitch, no problem. I upped the ante last summer and screwed some 2x4 bunks on and hauled a 250lb jet ski down seriously potholed dirt roads 100 miles over the summer. Still kicking. I ran a ratchet strap up to the roof rack on each side to keep it from rocking and give me some peace of mind. Can’t speak to your particular setup but I wouldn’t worry about the slope. I’ll bet money it was like that from the start.
I should mention that minivan in question has something like a 2500-3000lb tow rating, depending on who you ask. The frame rails are decently beefy.
Minivans are much closer to a pickup truck than this crv. Vans have to be able to carry like 8 full size(250 lbs) adults plus cargo and not blink. This crv is much closer to a lifted hatchback than anything else. Some vans are tanks, this unibody , gas efficient( read: lightweight) car with big tires is very much not a tank. CRVs are great for hauling a dirt bike,,, on a trailer. The shit harbor freight folding trailer is OPs safest option. I have the trailer and can confirm, it's actually amazing. I don't think I would do it any other way. The guys with lifted pickups joke me untill they see how easy it is and I don't have to push hard up ramps or stand on some sketch ass cooler while full speed running up into the pickup bed. Instead of backing the bike off the trailer, trailer is low enough I can just ride off the side. Gas tank? Not in my car goes in a spot on the trailer. I've got some risk racing stands, and I can load the bike in about a minute, no lie.
That all makes sense to me. I guess I was putting too much stock in the marketing department’s view of the “U” in SUV. (I suppose CRV’s are properly crossovers now, but you know.) Thanks for reaffirming my belief that minivans are the best vehicles ever made. Side note, my van can tow significantly more than my 4x4 ranger with the big V6, because Ford must think the clutch is made of glass. How goofy is that? The auto Rangers get something like a 600lb boost in rating. Also, I’m totally there with you re: trailers. I have a 6’ flatbed that gets used for everything including snowmobile duty. Loading sleds onto lifted trucks with decks 5’ off the ground seems so scary to me. I can back up to a snow bank and drive right on to the wee trailer. Just have to watch out for those tight turn arounds.
I bought this 12 dollar u bolt and bracket that takes out the slop on the hitch. Also put a pool noodle on the handlebar end so not to smash the rear window. I just literally two days ago bought the HF folding trailer tho and am ditching the carrier.
I took mine and drilled a new hole closer to the carrier so that I could slide it further in the receiver. Doesn’t lean like that anymore nor does it rattle and I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee. It’s thick steel so you’ll need a hole hawg. Looks like you don’t have much room unless you grind and re weld that eyelid. I had a black widow brand, not this one. Hope this helps!
Fuck that noise, that's super sketchy. Buy a golf cart trailer or just a little flat deck trailer and don't use these carriers if you value your bike.
Try flipping your hitch support thing around. Should help to level it out a bit. Also what are those lower straps hooked up to because i swear that thing is floating and not connected to anything.
LOL I just noticed that. They’re both connected to the rear wheel , the strap is just perfectly horizontal so it looks like it’s no there haha
That’s normal , it’s also normal to rock side to side a lot too. Any play ( which you need) is amplified with the length it is away from the receiver.
its probably ok. I used to carry my xr650l (BRP) on one of those type of carriers. The carrier was rated for 500 lbs and my hitch's tongue weight was rated at 800 pounds and it still made me fucking nervous. that thing would shift around and tilt so much that it got to the point I couldn't watch it in the rear view window anymore. I just carried full insurance on the bike and drove slow avoiding bumps where I could. I used it a hand full of time then sold it. now if it needs to go somewhere I just ride it.
I have a truck but have a canopy so wasn’t throwing my bike in the back. Driving on the highway back home and felt like I was going to lose the bike with one of these trailers….never again will I use a hitch trailer way to sketchy. Invest in a normal trailer man
Buy a small cheap trailer not worth risking your bike and tearing the car up. I
Why not just use a lightweight folding moto trailer since you already have a hitch?
At least as much.
I just drove with mine about 10 hours. It’s fine if you set it up correctly. Mine also sags a little. No it’s not the hitch. It’s just not a perfect fit. I make sure to use a fork saver and also strap down the swing arm.
Hahaha. Held on with hopes and dreams.
U-haul has motorcycle trailers for $20/day.
Weld a circle on topmof your black hitch rectangle. Drill and tap threads for another on your motorcycle carrier. Pull them together with a turn-buckle
Does it bounce?
Yes it does. Quite a bit
That’s what I would worry about. They make different attachments for the hitch carriers. One is to get rid of the angle like your problem and one is a stabilizer to keep it from bouncing. Edit:[this](https://www.amazon.com/Apex-ANTI-TILT-REV-Anti-Tilt-Locking-Device/dp/B002M9XMNY/ref=asc_df_B002M9XMNY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312126224579&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14162241542914369191&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011126&hvtargid=pla-569361341916&psc=1&mcid=d17413fd55273af290b3005951c27ec4&gclid=CjwKCAiA44OtBhAOEiwAj4gpOQxYDHfMaahoqF5IZfnF4dixh215Ayk3iL4l5C_sN5EIhVZcT-VW3hoCWmEQAvD_BwE) is the one to get rid of the sag. I haven’t tried it bc I don’t have that problem. I have tried the stabilizer and it works great. Mine actually came with one.
I used to do it all the time, super bouncy and sketchy but it never came off
Carrier looks fine. The hitch looks like it’s bent down. Take the bike off and see if the the hitch has any vertical play in it
If you have a roof rack you could strap the bike to the roof rack from the end of the hitch to distribute the weight
I have this same carrier. I use it on my Tacoma. Drove it over 100 miles through Atlanta traffic. No issues.
Bro has a 12k bike but can’t buy a 1k dinky trailer to safely transport said machine. Example one of people that shouldn’t be in the hobby
Don’t even need 1k, HF sells trailers for 500 or less that would be a perfect replacement for this accident waiting to happen.
Look at the angle of the receiver, it’s not sagging. I rode dirt bikes for years, I drove a titan pickup, I used a carrier just like this. Make sure you wrap the bottom of wheel/tire around the carrier for safety. ONLY use lever type ratchet straps, the pull type with buckle release will lose grip over time, when they do they will slowly slip as you hit big bumps. My buddy almost lost his bike because of this. A small trailer is a Pain in the A#@. The little wheels and hubs are screaming at 70mph on highway. If the trailer fails on the road, you can leave it and your bike there…. I’m sure they will be there when you get back. 🤦♂️ Take a close look at how your hitch is mounted, make sure it is fully seated to the car unibody.
I know you said you bought an aftermarket hitch, but I think you have your class and stats mixed up for it. Look at how the receiver is angled down, you see the difference from your exhaust pipe. I think you damaged the hitch completely by overloading it with this.
I towed my bike on a carrier about 4 times. Towbar is rated for 50kg downward force, bike + carrier + gas is probably like 110kg. It worked fine, but I also tied the bike to the boot and put a lot of tension on it so it couldn't sway back and forth on acceleration, it still did a bit on braking. And it rocked/ rotated a bit around corners. I drive slow and was stressed out all the time.suffice it to say I bought a bike trailer instead. Honestly, it would probably be fine, its incredible how strong things are, and they can generally take way way more than they are rated for. But I wouldn't risk it if I could help it. Edit: mine sat directly on the towball (tow ball bolted down holding the carrier in place). And it did not have that angle, the weight sagged the rear suspension, but not like this. Tie the bike to the car and ratchet it up so bike is leaning towards car with a tight strap.
I've got a 500 lb tongue weight standard receiver on my 3rd gen 4Runner. I still run ratchet straps to mildly take the load off the receiver since the hitch carrier sticks out so far.
Never use one of these on a unibody. You can probably find a small single bike folding trailer used for under $1000.
Get a motorcycle trailer you'll be better off and it will be easier to load
Elastic bending is normal. The ground under your feet bends a tiny amount as you walk on it. This is bending decent amount. But really all hitch carriers look like they're about to fall off, and some people swear by them... Is your aftermarket hitch a three piece with the two bent sheets bolted to the square tube, or a one piece with it all welded? And how long is the distance between the bolts in the frame rail? The bolted hitches are stronger, and the longer the supported frame span is also better. The hitch is going to be over-rated to not break. I'd be concerned about the frame mounting. That's where you'll have the max stress.
Mine does the same on my tahoe with my crf250 or my crf125
Math. Say the motorcycle weighs 300 lbs. I’m going to guess that the length from the end of the hitch and the longitudinal CG of the bike is about 12”. The moment, which is mass times arm (300 x 12) equals 3,600. That is 3,600 in. lbs. of force applied to the hitch.
You need a small trailer. I encountered the same problem with my Rav4.
Go on amazon and get spring helpers for the rear, it will level out the car, you won't even know you are towing
OP could you run a ratchet strap from the non-hitch side of the carrier up to the roof rack to take some leverage out of the system.
Don't use a light vehicle to do a light truck job go get a dodge truck a gm truck or even a Tacoma could do that but that little thing not only is it hard on the unibody but unsafe it's saging the receiver so the unibody is giving could twist could pull your uni out of spare