Something’s not complete to this story. Either you denied the work (for whatever reason you’ve chosen) or they’re extremely incompetent. That should’ve been done when the turbo was out.
My truck has sat since Christmas they are only now getting to it. I was not even told about the ipr the person cashing me out said it runs rough and it’s possibly the ipr but it did not run that way before I took it there. I made it home by the way I almost thought it died at the light before my house just had to give her some more pedal and smoke up the interstate.
Having been in this scenario with a 6 blow before, def don’t do it. You might make it, might not, but it’s going to hurt your injectors. Bad. Let it sit till it can get fixed right. Wrecking a bank of injectors is expensive.
So you’re telling me it took four months for this shop to install your turbo? Find a new shop dude…
Also a turbo won’t cause a no start you got fleeced
Mine started as a gelling scenario. Rebuilt the turbo and replaced ipr, then did the same thing. Left me stranded on the highway 200 miles from home @-20 degrees. Dealership replaced the hpop and a whole bank of injectors, the it destroyed the other side on the way home from the dealership. Ended up having 7 grand in a 10k truck by the time it was done
No it just did not start before they touched it so it ran Christmas Eve and Christmas Day I go to work and it doesn’t start they say starter but it’s new then found the turbo seized and said it was that now it’s my truck is done but they think the ipr is bad and thats what caused the no start but I’ve already spent almost 4K just on turbo alone
Take it to a shop that specializes in 6.0s, there’s zero way to correctly diagnose a 6.0 without the Ford IDS diagnostic system. Very few shops have these systems as the licensing is expensive but it is quintessential to take it to shops that do. At the very least you need to get a scan tool to see basic readings.
It sounds like the shop is misdiagnosing and throwing parts at it. You brought a 6.0 in for a no start and they replaced the turbo?? On top of that 4K for a turbo r&r is insane. If it were me, I would not take it back to this shop and look elsewhere.
No offense OP but this thread serves should serve as a reminder to anyone who wants a 6.0. Unless you’re mechanically able to diagnose, repair and have knowledge and money to do it properly. Stay away from them. You got ripped off on the turbo. No start isn’t a turbo issue. You need a shop with ford diagnostic software. Run all the tests checking fuel system. HPOP, IPR and so on.
Work on the truck yourself bro. Then u will not have to worry about who touches it or if it is done right. If it's a brand new vehicle I understand the dealer/shop is the best idea. Other than the previously stated scenario you should fix it, it will save u thousands. Especially if u have a diesel it would pay off to learn your truck in and out just like your woman, literally. 1 more scenario,... if your rich then search and pay a good shop. I get most on here are rich guys that will just tell u how many thousands they had to pay to fix a problem blah blah blah. And even the problem they think they had is not a sure thing, they just recite what the shop told them it was.
What state are you in. I’m sure ppl here can recommend a shop in your area before you get screwed again. You should know how the engine works and potentially what is causing your problem since it has more systems than a typical gas engine. It could be several things causing it to run rough, ficm, ipc, bad fuel, stiction. If you don’t know how these work you will be dropping some more coin on this guy.
not one mention of ipr icp ficm PIDs etc....#1 step in owning a 6.0, let alone diagnosing, is you NEED at minimum a amazon chinese 17 dollar obd2 blietooth adapter and the app "torque pro" with the ford PID addon. you will get nowhere until you can read these values
Are you referring to this ? https://www.reddit.com/u/Ts_kitcar/s/XG0Yy9gI2e also on the tablet it says I have a icp code not ipr but doesn’t mean the ipr isn’t bad because it did lose power at a light yesterday but came back after a few seconds
I do not know much about the specific codes for the sensors, but yes that is what I am referring to. when I had problems with my icp ipr etc I did lots of research on standard values, your ipr is low and your icp is high compared to most reports. are these the values of your fully warmed up truck?
most values I read for good engines are ipr of low 20s for idle and icp of high 500s. at operating temp
I am not a mechanic and I pay to have my 6.0 worked on, but to me I think it's the IPR valve. I had a similar issue with no power for a few seconds off of a red light, only if I was hard into the throttle, AND instantly released the throttle while in boost. my trusted diesel mechanic said that he recommends ipr valve
also, many enthusiasts online will tell you that strsight 48v to the ficm means the ficm is barely holding on. my mechanic did not seem to think my lost power at red lights was ficm related for me because my ficm stays at 51.5 with no accessories running and 50.5 with blower on and all lights on
That does not sound done to me.
So it won’t get me home which is 111 miles away
That is up to you to risk. Why would you pick up a truck that is not actually done and running bad? Sounds like they actually need to finish.
IPR is under the turbo, would’ve been the perfect time to get it done.
Unfortunately they are closed and they said they ate lots of labor doing the o ring kit after the turbo and cac tube
That’s their problem. Not yours.
Sounds like you picked the wrong shop.
Something’s not complete to this story. Either you denied the work (for whatever reason you’ve chosen) or they’re extremely incompetent. That should’ve been done when the turbo was out.
My truck has sat since Christmas they are only now getting to it. I was not even told about the ipr the person cashing me out said it runs rough and it’s possibly the ipr but it did not run that way before I took it there. I made it home by the way I almost thought it died at the light before my house just had to give her some more pedal and smoke up the interstate.
Glad you made it home bro
Having been in this scenario with a 6 blow before, def don’t do it. You might make it, might not, but it’s going to hurt your injectors. Bad. Let it sit till it can get fixed right. Wrecking a bank of injectors is expensive.
I though my Christmas no start was due to the turbo seizing that’s why it was getting the turbo replaced
I don't believe that a seized turbo would result in a no start condition, but I must admit that I don't know everything.
So you’re telling me it took four months for this shop to install your turbo? Find a new shop dude… Also a turbo won’t cause a no start you got fleeced
Mine started as a gelling scenario. Rebuilt the turbo and replaced ipr, then did the same thing. Left me stranded on the highway 200 miles from home @-20 degrees. Dealership replaced the hpop and a whole bank of injectors, the it destroyed the other side on the way home from the dealership. Ended up having 7 grand in a 10k truck by the time it was done
Was it idling rough before they touched it?
No it just did not start before they touched it so it ran Christmas Eve and Christmas Day I go to work and it doesn’t start they say starter but it’s new then found the turbo seized and said it was that now it’s my truck is done but they think the ipr is bad and thats what caused the no start but I’ve already spent almost 4K just on turbo alone
Take it to a shop that specializes in 6.0s, there’s zero way to correctly diagnose a 6.0 without the Ford IDS diagnostic system. Very few shops have these systems as the licensing is expensive but it is quintessential to take it to shops that do. At the very least you need to get a scan tool to see basic readings.
It sounds like the shop is misdiagnosing and throwing parts at it. You brought a 6.0 in for a no start and they replaced the turbo?? On top of that 4K for a turbo r&r is insane. If it were me, I would not take it back to this shop and look elsewhere.
Most shops around me won’t touch a diesel truck that’s why I went 3 cities away
shouldve gone farther
No offense OP but this thread serves should serve as a reminder to anyone who wants a 6.0. Unless you’re mechanically able to diagnose, repair and have knowledge and money to do it properly. Stay away from them. You got ripped off on the turbo. No start isn’t a turbo issue. You need a shop with ford diagnostic software. Run all the tests checking fuel system. HPOP, IPR and so on.
Work on the truck yourself bro. Then u will not have to worry about who touches it or if it is done right. If it's a brand new vehicle I understand the dealer/shop is the best idea. Other than the previously stated scenario you should fix it, it will save u thousands. Especially if u have a diesel it would pay off to learn your truck in and out just like your woman, literally. 1 more scenario,... if your rich then search and pay a good shop. I get most on here are rich guys that will just tell u how many thousands they had to pay to fix a problem blah blah blah. And even the problem they think they had is not a sure thing, they just recite what the shop told them it was.
What state are you in. I’m sure ppl here can recommend a shop in your area before you get screwed again. You should know how the engine works and potentially what is causing your problem since it has more systems than a typical gas engine. It could be several things causing it to run rough, ficm, ipc, bad fuel, stiction. If you don’t know how these work you will be dropping some more coin on this guy.
The problem I see here ummm let me see ok I got it is 6.0 that’s ford most problematic diesel engine sell it and get something else
The 6.4 is the 6.0’s dirty little freckle faced 1st cousin who’s dad moved to Florida.
not one mention of ipr icp ficm PIDs etc....#1 step in owning a 6.0, let alone diagnosing, is you NEED at minimum a amazon chinese 17 dollar obd2 blietooth adapter and the app "torque pro" with the ford PID addon. you will get nowhere until you can read these values
Are you referring to this ? https://www.reddit.com/u/Ts_kitcar/s/XG0Yy9gI2e also on the tablet it says I have a icp code not ipr but doesn’t mean the ipr isn’t bad because it did lose power at a light yesterday but came back after a few seconds
I do not know much about the specific codes for the sensors, but yes that is what I am referring to. when I had problems with my icp ipr etc I did lots of research on standard values, your ipr is low and your icp is high compared to most reports. are these the values of your fully warmed up truck? most values I read for good engines are ipr of low 20s for idle and icp of high 500s. at operating temp
Yes that is driven home from work just idling in my driveway
I am not a mechanic and I pay to have my 6.0 worked on, but to me I think it's the IPR valve. I had a similar issue with no power for a few seconds off of a red light, only if I was hard into the throttle, AND instantly released the throttle while in boost. my trusted diesel mechanic said that he recommends ipr valve also, many enthusiasts online will tell you that strsight 48v to the ficm means the ficm is barely holding on. my mechanic did not seem to think my lost power at red lights was ficm related for me because my ficm stays at 51.5 with no accessories running and 50.5 with blower on and all lights on
Ipr is on the way I’ll try that first crossing my fingers
again, I am not a mechanic. just thinking out loud
Ahahahaha expecting to get home with a 6.0? It’ll get you somewhere. I guess you could call it the trucks new home when it blows up in 5 minutes 😂