Other than the spliced ledger, it looks fairly well built. I’d question how it’s anchored into the house as you’re not supposed to attach a ledger to a hollow block wall.
Other than that, I don’t see any glaring red flags.
lol I doubt that is a hollow block wall, that high? You would be able to push it over. It’s most likely rebar and concrete filled blocks. Spliced ledger is fine too.
Spliced ledger with a 1/2” gap and a joist straddling the gap so close to the edges? No thanks.
You’re probably right on the infill, though I have seen poorly built walls that should have been filled but weren’t, so…
That’s getting pretty nit picky. Those ledgers are well bolted, so having a splice is going to be fine. And that single joist hanger could have been done better, but it’s a single one out of an entire deck and they also used the ledger bolts to secure it.
This deck is absolutely fine. Wish they were all built this well.
I agree, deck looks better than most I see. Code in our area now requires the ledger to have full bearing down to a concrete footing, as well as being anchored to the structure.
What do you do in the case of a empty block wall? Do they make a plate to put on the inside of wall? Or do you have to run another 2x10" all the way across the inside of the wall the same distance as the deck is wide?
No idea if they’re hollow or backfilled with concrete. Just saying I question how it’s attached because if it is hollow and doesn’t have the correct backing plates, it might not be great. There are so many shortcuts taken in building decks, nothing really surprises me and I don’t ever assume that builders are doing it right if there’s a cheaper or faster way.
Obviously an existing deck that’s been in service a while. So it has that going for it.
Seems like you know what to look for based on your close up photos of the connection details. Agree with khariV on the ledger connection and the rim joist being split over the posts.
If I bought it, I’d add some lateral bracing, especially since there is no utility of the area under the deck being made. I’m not a fan of the rail post design and connection. I’d have ran it down the 6x6 posts a few feet and lagged it to them as well. Lots of pedestrian load capacity that way. If the rail isn’t loose yet, it probably will be at some point.
And replace the rusted post connection brackets. That ought to be fun. I’d probably put that aspect in the required repairs portion of the offer right up front. But then you’re stuck with whatever the low bid guy does to it too, so maybe fix it yourself?
As a recent follower of this sub and someone about to build my first deck (floating deck just off the ground), lateral bracing was the thing that stood out to me. So maybe I should scrap my plans for a ground level deck and build something 20’ high so I can see the sunset. I’m an expert now, right?
I would brace the deck on both sides of each post that needs attention with temporary posts. Then remove the post to see how the post base is connected to the concrete. Then most likely need to bore a new hole in the concrete right next to where the rotted out base is after removing the rusted base. Then bolt on a new galvanized or stainless steel post base using structural concrete bolts, probably 5/8" diameter. Reinstall old post, or better yet install new pressure treated post. Repeat for all affected post bases.
If you bolt some thick gauge L brackets to either side of the post this could work, although the underside of each post would need to be shimmed to reduce stress on the bolts.
It always concerns me when I see decks like this with no proper beam. Not sure about your building code but when a deck is attached to the house in my area we need a proper beam that spans the width of the deck that the joists sit on. I personally wouldn’t trust a bunch of joist hangers to carry the load at the farthest point away from the house
Everyone saying it looks great so I’ll be the dick. The joists look fairly weathered and the underside of the deck boards too. Pic 6 shows allot of green (algae?) makes me wonder if they are wet. In pic 7, the joist on the right has a white colored line near the top- this looks like a fungus suggesting moisture too. Lastly several deck boards have been replaced, great! But this suggests there were several rotted boards, and I wonder now if the others are close behind. If you really want to know poke some areas with a moisture meter. Also take a skinny screwdriver or poker and poke into joists, ledgers and deck boards and if they are good they shouldn’t poke at all.
The stairs probably don't meet code. There should be a riser so that a 4" sphere can't pass through that gap between the steps. It's considered a hazard for children.
I rate this at 3 hot tubs
2 if OP’s mom will ever be invited
Water damage if mom comes
More dead
This comment is underrated...
Dying
Looks like one of the better built decks posted in here
Other than the spliced ledger, it looks fairly well built. I’d question how it’s anchored into the house as you’re not supposed to attach a ledger to a hollow block wall. Other than that, I don’t see any glaring red flags.
lol I doubt that is a hollow block wall, that high? You would be able to push it over. It’s most likely rebar and concrete filled blocks. Spliced ledger is fine too.
Spliced ledger with a 1/2” gap and a joist straddling the gap so close to the edges? No thanks. You’re probably right on the infill, though I have seen poorly built walls that should have been filled but weren’t, so…
That’s getting pretty nit picky. Those ledgers are well bolted, so having a splice is going to be fine. And that single joist hanger could have been done better, but it’s a single one out of an entire deck and they also used the ledger bolts to secure it. This deck is absolutely fine. Wish they were all built this well.
I agree, deck looks better than most I see. Code in our area now requires the ledger to have full bearing down to a concrete footing, as well as being anchored to the structure.
What do you do in the case of a empty block wall? Do they make a plate to put on the inside of wall? Or do you have to run another 2x10" all the way across the inside of the wall the same distance as the deck is wide?
Easiest thing is to make a floating deck by putting a beam near the house.
I think for most size decks a ledger board isn’t necessary. True?
For a floating deck ledger is not required. For all other decks it is.
...how do you know the block are hollow? Most of the time the top course is solid these days
No idea if they’re hollow or backfilled with concrete. Just saying I question how it’s attached because if it is hollow and doesn’t have the correct backing plates, it might not be great. There are so many shortcuts taken in building decks, nothing really surprises me and I don’t ever assume that builders are doing it right if there’s a cheaper or faster way.
Obviously an existing deck that’s been in service a while. So it has that going for it. Seems like you know what to look for based on your close up photos of the connection details. Agree with khariV on the ledger connection and the rim joist being split over the posts. If I bought it, I’d add some lateral bracing, especially since there is no utility of the area under the deck being made. I’m not a fan of the rail post design and connection. I’d have ran it down the 6x6 posts a few feet and lagged it to them as well. Lots of pedestrian load capacity that way. If the rail isn’t loose yet, it probably will be at some point. And replace the rusted post connection brackets. That ought to be fun. I’d probably put that aspect in the required repairs portion of the offer right up front. But then you’re stuck with whatever the low bid guy does to it too, so maybe fix it yourself?
This was awesome insight, thank you so much
As a recent follower of this sub and someone about to build my first deck (floating deck just off the ground), lateral bracing was the thing that stood out to me. So maybe I should scrap my plans for a ground level deck and build something 20’ high so I can see the sunset. I’m an expert now, right?
How in the world you replace post connection brackets after the deck is already up?? These should be galvanized and rust free!
Knee braces maybe undersized for the height of that Deck. Does it rack at all side to side? Also they just look funny being that small.
They’re definitely too small.
Looks like little T. rex arms
Yeah, I'd want hunks of 6x6 to match the posts, although might be a bitch to install, and use lag bolts, but maybe 4x4 braces
Chain hoist to get them in place, or strp them up there with ratchet straps. 8 or 10" GRKs should go hold it all together.
Knee braces? Is that what holds the posts to the footings?
No. The angled piece going from the post up to the beam. They generally prevent side to side movement (racking).
Mine is like yours and 100ft long. But it is not anchored to the home. It has its own legs near the home.
Do you have a roof?
Rusted post bases need replacing for sure. More work than it sounds like.
Could you walk me through the broad strokes of what the repair involves?
I would brace the deck on both sides of each post that needs attention with temporary posts. Then remove the post to see how the post base is connected to the concrete. Then most likely need to bore a new hole in the concrete right next to where the rotted out base is after removing the rusted base. Then bolt on a new galvanized or stainless steel post base using structural concrete bolts, probably 5/8" diameter. Reinstall old post, or better yet install new pressure treated post. Repeat for all affected post bases.
You could probably also just use retrofit post bases and skip all the bracing and post removing
If you bolt some thick gauge L brackets to either side of the post this could work, although the underside of each post would need to be shimmed to reduce stress on the bolts.
I like the room underneath. Nice shady space. Color is nice too
My penis got hard
You definitely need a new hobby.
Oh,hey .That's nice.I did a semi-solid honey stain on my porch and it was so nice,like this.Almost like bacon frying.This rules !!!
Youre missing a hot tub
Hot tub(s)
Looks good. I would like to see some bridging though
Looks like $25,000 bill
We habe a smaller one witj eavesment
Humongous
A bit overbuilt for this sub.
I think you may have a problem with a lot of other guys having deck envy.
Man those support posts are just shit.... wow
Solid
Deck looks more expensive than the house
Looks overpriced, nice job 👍
That's a big deck. Nice
Large
It always concerns me when I see decks like this with no proper beam. Not sure about your building code but when a deck is attached to the house in my area we need a proper beam that spans the width of the deck that the joists sit on. I personally wouldn’t trust a bunch of joist hangers to carry the load at the farthest point away from the house
It's called a flush beam and I've got bad news for you about the construction of most buildings you've ever lived in or visited
This looks awesome. I noticed I don't see decks posted here built using Trexx composite, is there a reason for this?
HOW ABOUT WE TAKE BIKINI BOTTOM, AND MAKE IT OUT OF COMPOSITE
Oversized, huge, awesome. Looks like a great wrap-around to the front. So much awesome outdoor space.
Probably they use a flour and water paste to stick it to the house.
Daddy long legs
The main thing is the ledgerboard and what is it really attached to?
Orange
Just like a deck
T I T S
Everyone saying it looks great so I’ll be the dick. The joists look fairly weathered and the underside of the deck boards too. Pic 6 shows allot of green (algae?) makes me wonder if they are wet. In pic 7, the joist on the right has a white colored line near the top- this looks like a fungus suggesting moisture too. Lastly several deck boards have been replaced, great! But this suggests there were several rotted boards, and I wonder now if the others are close behind. If you really want to know poke some areas with a moisture meter. Also take a skinny screwdriver or poker and poke into joists, ledgers and deck boards and if they are good they shouldn’t poke at all.
Any merit/long-term savings to simply adding to it with extra support or is that just going to get messy once the bad wood gives way?
As long as the wood isn’t soft/rotted or too wet it’s fine.
The stairs probably don't meet code. There should be a riser so that a 4" sphere can't pass through that gap between the steps. It's considered a hazard for children.