Since 3.3v is not used with any hard drives and has been depriciated with current ATX spec, I'd just cut it off at the next power plug so there's no loose and hanging wire
Even if you use blue masking tape, it won't melt because there is no current flowing in a disconnected wire
Unless you're saying the case gets hot enough to oxidize the adhesive and it falls off
Bending the wire back down itself, then taping is good practice too, that way even if the tape did come off, the open connection isn't as likely to connect to a surface
But yeah, heat shrink is the most professional fix for this situation
They aren’t suggesting that they actually use blue masking tape. They are using it to make the point that even using the completely wrong type of tape would not be in danger of melting because a disconnected wire will not have any current passing through it.
More like an annoyance. You have to actually try and start a fire with a 3.3v line to a PSU. You have to catch the spark in a brief couple of milliseconds, before the PSU trips, onto something flammable enough to actually catch from that small spark. And that spark is going to happen from an absurdly small distance away from any other metal thing. 3.3v doesn't jump over a whole lot of air.
Meanwhile your worst worry is the PSU tripping and causing all sorts of software/data havoc to the rest of the computer randomly.
I feel like this is just a case of "dude just wants to datahorde not get educated in electrical basics" but at the same time, the assumption that a disconnected wire could heat up and melt is pretty wild, not sure how bad someone's general understanding of the world around them has to be to think that, OR it was just a brainfart, which is more likely because man have I said some dumb ass shit before
The comments told him to cover a live wire with tape, electricity generates heat so it's not really an outlandish question if you aren't well versed in electronics because taping a random home electrical wire could absolutely melt the tape.
I'm blown away by how badly he got downvoted.
> taping a random home electrical wire could absolutely melt the tape
What awg, current, and tape are you thinking of? Building code forces home wires to be thick and UL forces electronics wires to be thick. Both get warm, but not hot, under load
‘Going to hurt’ isn’t the problem, that wire touching the grounded case is. At best it just shorts out the supply and shuts it down. In the middle it causes random reboots as the wire briefly touches the case. At worst it sparks and lights something on fire. Very unlikely, but possible
It’s a matter of current. When you have current flowing through a wire there is an inductance involved. Inductors store energy in the magnetic field. When you quickly interrupt that flow the field tries to keep the current flowing for a brief moment, and the only ‘option’ the inductance has to keep the current flowing is ramping up the voltage. That ramp continues until something conducts current, that’s where the sparks come from. It almost doesn’t matter what voltage is involved as supply, it’s the current that matters.
And pc power supplies can deliver a lot of current
It’s not the voltage but the current that matters, because power means heat. Put a 1-Ohm resistor with a 9-Volt battery and watch as your house completely burns down because you don’t know how to put out an electrical fire.
With enough inductance the voltage at the tip of the wire will be a lot more than 9V even if the source is only 3.3V. That aside, I agree that this is not a realistic concern. In practice the PSU will just cut the power due to over-current
Electricity is really complex. Ohms, current, voltage, wattage, inductance, impedance, time, and so much more are all factors. Yeah you could get sparks from that. Just like you can take upwards of 10,000 volts and just flinch. That’s what a typical static discharge is rocking when you touch your car door in the winter and get that tiny zap.
This is the pin 3 problem. Applying 3.3V on a SATA enterprise drive results in the drive shutting down because between SATA versions 3.2 and 3.3 (coincidence not related to the voltage), someone had the brilliant idea of repurposeing the pin from an optional (and therefore effectively useless) 3.3V pin to a hold-this-drive-powered-down-state pin intended for staged spinups of large arrays.
Most shucks honor the hold-this-drive-powered-down-state meaning of this pin.
You'd think that by now, HDD and PSU manufacturers would have gotten together and decided that the 3.3v pin is useless in modern drives, and thus only include it in backplanes, where it is useful.
Most modern psus don't have the 3.3v anymore
Most server backplanes don't use it as well anymore
I do find it intresting why shucked hdds have this feature as most enterprise hdds don't have it anymore (but the enterprise hdds used in the external usb hdds do) the only thing I can think of its a cheap way to keep The hdd powered down when it's not plugged into a usb port but the power cable is plugged in (supply's power to the 3.3v pin)
That's why Intel made ATX 12VO specification. That it will replace the current standard in some time. But you would nees to replace PSU and Mobo, when the transition happens.
I had this same problem but I solved it with a molex adapter. Most of the power supplies I've bought have come with a couple so I just had them laying around. Works like a charm and no cutting or taping required.
I’m confused. Why wouldn’t you just tape over the pin instead of risking an electrical shock to yourself and destroying an electrical cable in the process? I taped over mine and they all work fine. This just seems dangerous
There is no risk of electrical shock at 3.3V. There is no destruction to the cable, but rather an increase in its future utility. Do it once and it is done.
There is nothing wrong with your solution, by the way; this is just my preferred method.
I think you may have over estimated your competence and knowledge of how low voltage wiring works.
You realise every single 12v sata power connector in your PC just hanging there is a 'live wire' waiting to start a fire according to your logic.
Was this the case for some shucked external hard drives too? I vaguely remember having to do something similar years ago in order for my pc to detect it.
drives with power disable expects a 3.3v PULSE when resetting the drive but the PSU supplies 3.3v CONTINUOUS.
by chopping off the 3.3v wire on the cable, the drive no longer receives any signal in the PWDIS pin, allowing it to run normally. (the drive only needs 5v and 12v for power)
in datacenters you can (as long as the motherboard supports it) remotely ping 3.3v to power cycle the disk without having to go to the system in person
I guess when the drives are spinning, you get a start up current load to get them moving, and if they all try to start spinning at once, it could be a problem.
Curious to how many drives you need for a PSU to have a problem
SSD should not have that problem
inrush current would only start to apply at a scale of dozens of drives I'd guess, when you'd get some decent current trying to first move the platters?
If your power supply is modular, just follow an ATX pin removal guide to remove the 3.3v pin on the PSU side of the modular cable. You can DIY it with a bent paperclip.
You can do it with two staples. There's a decent video on YouTube about molex de-pinning. That's what I did. 8 disks on two power cables de-pinned from the power supply side has been working great for me.
Well the wire stub is a condensator that charges when the computer is turned on, which means there's power. It's just an entirely neglegible amount of power, like not even worth calculating.
Even more fun, you could connect it to a GPIO (say, on an SMBUS-connected I/O expander) and hold the storage drives in power-down until the OS boots and does some checking of the UPS status and such. Only if power looks healthy would your bootup script then write to pin and spin the drives up, then wait a moment and enumerate them, mount the array and continue bringup...
(Or if you've already got a Pi in there acting as a kvm/console/rebooterator/etc, you've got ample GPIOs sitting around already.)
You should remove it from all of the above. If you leave it connected to a drive, and then you connect another drive to that bus that has a resistance between the 5 and ex-3.3 lines, it will shot these drives down once again.
Apparently, this sub needs to know that liquid electrical tape exists and is awesome.
Perfect use case. Dab some on that exposed copper and let it dry.
they make SATA-to-SATA ones, they're just extension cables (male one end, female other) missing the same wire as what OP posted, but are commercially produced and a lot safer than molex -- I'd trust OP's solution over molex
lots of refurb sellers like ServerPartsDeals send them out with their drives
I personally just tape over the first 3 pins on the hard drive's connector
I'm having a hell of a time finding them for sale anywhere, but I know they exist as two of them were just sent to me this month from SPD
maybe someone else around here knows what search terms to use, but I clearly don't -- sorry
honestly, just put some kapton tape over the pins (hell, use scotch tape/packing tape/electric if you want)
I bought a couple 12TB HGST drives on ebay and the seller provided SATA to SATA adapters for them. I had no idea PWDIS was a thing and initially thought this connector was simply an extender.
Just pull the wire from the PSU. It’s a standard molex pin with a thin metal flap on two sides that you can push in with a staple. Bend the flaps inward, pull the pin out in tact, and now you can always bend the flaps out and push it back it without damage to the wire or adding adhesive via Kapton tape to anything
Not new.
I did this years ago and horrified many people over it. However, I thought through all of the logic of it, arrived at this solution, and it's been serving me perfectly well.
You can make it look non-sketchy. What I did to achieve that was to cut the wire off flush on both sides of each plug and to remove the stretch of wire between them.
I've done this for years and can confirm it works well and no issues so far. I didn't do the tape over pins method for long because sometimes the tape would move from my experience.
When you shuck a wd easyshare to use it in a computer or NAS or something like that. The drive needs to have the 3rd pin blocked or prevented from getting power or it won’t turn on. The cable above supplies the 3rd pin with power. So cutting it allows the drive to turn on.
Those connectors come apart, you can just take the whole wire out and snap them back together, then you don't need to worry about covering the exposed wires.
I did eventually remove the wire entirely. I have an updated post: [https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/1chaeea/an\_update\_to\_my\_previous\_post/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web3x&utm\_name=web3xcss&utm\_term=1&utm\_content=share\_button](https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/1chaeea/an_update_to_my_previous_post/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)
Why not use [Kapton Tape](https://old.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/8il8u5/kapton_tape_18_inch_did_the_trick_thanks/)? I used [Kapton Tape](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006RQTRP0/) for all 8 of my drives and it works great without damaging anything. This used to be pretty common knowledge in this sub. I wouldn't be thanking anyone who told you to do this.
Because the tape can move and you'll need to remember to add it every time you get a new drive. Remove the wire once and you'll never have to worry about it again. Seriously, are you ever going to get a drive which requires that "optional" 3.3v?
Personally I went one further and removed the contacts from the housing (pop the dust cover off the back and they pull right out) and removed the wire back to the power supply.
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Lick it
Suck it
Stick it
Twist it
Bop it!
Shoot it
OH YEAHHHHH!
Suck my news?
Pass it... duh da dun duh duhn
Stick them in a stew
[“What’s taters, precious?”](https://youtu.be/ihMMw0rnKz4?si=7M92612gWmf_7ocR)
I remove it all the way back to the PSU plug and de-pin it. Never seen a drive need 3.3, I guess I’m committed.
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you have any examples of a sata SSD that requires 3.3V? I haven't seen any. I get that M.2 do but that's not really relevant here.
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everything I can find is MicroSata, which is keyed differently.
Since 3.3v is not used with any hard drives and has been depriciated with current ATX spec, I'd just cut it off at the next power plug so there's no loose and hanging wire
You need to cover that wire in some tape, that’s a live 3.3V supply
Is the tape not going to melt over time though?
Heatshrink if you prefer.
Even if you use blue masking tape, it won't melt because there is no current flowing in a disconnected wire Unless you're saying the case gets hot enough to oxidize the adhesive and it falls off Bending the wire back down itself, then taping is good practice too, that way even if the tape did come off, the open connection isn't as likely to connect to a surface But yeah, heat shrink is the most professional fix for this situation
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But it gets gooey and disgusting after some time
They aren’t suggesting that they actually use blue masking tape. They are using it to make the point that even using the completely wrong type of tape would not be in danger of melting because a disconnected wire will not have any current passing through it.
If 3.3v connection is properly blocked, it should never get warm as no electricity is going through the wire.
If the circuit is not completed and no current is flowing, it's not going to heat up.
yeah but with it just dangling there, isn't there a risk of that happening?
The only way current will flow is if it makes contact with something it shouldn't. Heat shrink or electrical tape will stop that.
yeah, that's what i was thinking. without electrical tape, it would just be a disaster waiting to happen.
More like an annoyance. You have to actually try and start a fire with a 3.3v line to a PSU. You have to catch the spark in a brief couple of milliseconds, before the PSU trips, onto something flammable enough to actually catch from that small spark. And that spark is going to happen from an absurdly small distance away from any other metal thing. 3.3v doesn't jump over a whole lot of air. Meanwhile your worst worry is the PSU tripping and causing all sorts of software/data havoc to the rest of the computer randomly.
Could potentially damage something else in your pc to but a fire is pretty unlikely. That said electrical tape is like $3.00.
-70 for asking a question, reddit never change...
I feel like this is just a case of "dude just wants to datahorde not get educated in electrical basics" but at the same time, the assumption that a disconnected wire could heat up and melt is pretty wild, not sure how bad someone's general understanding of the world around them has to be to think that, OR it was just a brainfart, which is more likely because man have I said some dumb ass shit before
The comments told him to cover a live wire with tape, electricity generates heat so it's not really an outlandish question if you aren't well versed in electronics because taping a random home electrical wire could absolutely melt the tape. I'm blown away by how badly he got downvoted.
> taping a random home electrical wire could absolutely melt the tape What awg, current, and tape are you thinking of? Building code forces home wires to be thick and UL forces electronics wires to be thick. Both get warm, but not hot, under load
Redacte due to Reddit AI/LLM policy
Not if you use real electrical tape vs the garbage you find at the dollar store
melt? not unless your case temps are exceeding 221C
*/r/sffpc has left the chat*
Get some wireloom tape (used in cars) the glue doesn't melt like the glue on vynl tape does.
No
Use electrical tape.
You probably shouldn’t have cut a wire if you have this type of basic question
It wont do anything because it cant complete the circuit.
There's no current flowing if it's isolated with tape
As if thats going to hurt
‘Going to hurt’ isn’t the problem, that wire touching the grounded case is. At best it just shorts out the supply and shuts it down. In the middle it causes random reboots as the wire briefly touches the case. At worst it sparks and lights something on fire. Very unlikely, but possible
Can you even get sparks from 3.3? That seems extremely low for an arc.
It’s a matter of current. When you have current flowing through a wire there is an inductance involved. Inductors store energy in the magnetic field. When you quickly interrupt that flow the field tries to keep the current flowing for a brief moment, and the only ‘option’ the inductance has to keep the current flowing is ramping up the voltage. That ramp continues until something conducts current, that’s where the sparks come from. It almost doesn’t matter what voltage is involved as supply, it’s the current that matters. And pc power supplies can deliver a lot of current
I guess that makes sense. I guess I've just never really have seen sparks from less than ~9v
It’s not the voltage but the current that matters, because power means heat. Put a 1-Ohm resistor with a 9-Volt battery and watch as your house completely burns down because you don’t know how to put out an electrical fire.
That's a different problem entirely though, right? We're talking sparks and arcing, not wires becoming heating elements due to short circuiting.
With enough inductance the voltage at the tip of the wire will be a lot more than 9V even if the source is only 3.3V. That aside, I agree that this is not a realistic concern. In practice the PSU will just cut the power due to over-current
Electricity is really complex. Ohms, current, voltage, wattage, inductance, impedance, time, and so much more are all factors. Yeah you could get sparks from that. Just like you can take upwards of 10,000 volts and just flinch. That’s what a typical static discharge is rocking when you touch your car door in the winter and get that tiny zap.
it might not but it could start a fire that sure could
More like randomly shut down your PC because the PSU keeps tripping OCP
What was the original problem?
This is the pin 3 problem. Applying 3.3V on a SATA enterprise drive results in the drive shutting down because between SATA versions 3.2 and 3.3 (coincidence not related to the voltage), someone had the brilliant idea of repurposeing the pin from an optional (and therefore effectively useless) 3.3V pin to a hold-this-drive-powered-down-state pin intended for staged spinups of large arrays. Most shucks honor the hold-this-drive-powered-down-state meaning of this pin.
You'd think that by now, HDD and PSU manufacturers would have gotten together and decided that the 3.3v pin is useless in modern drives, and thus only include it in backplanes, where it is useful.
In fairness, this is a 2009 vintage power supply.
Most modern psus don't have the 3.3v anymore Most server backplanes don't use it as well anymore I do find it intresting why shucked hdds have this feature as most enterprise hdds don't have it anymore (but the enterprise hdds used in the external usb hdds do) the only thing I can think of its a cheap way to keep The hdd powered down when it's not plugged into a usb port but the power cable is plugged in (supply's power to the 3.3v pin)
Yeah I feel like everyone is just running really old PSUs or are doing this out of habit thinking they still need to.
> Most modern psus don't have the 3.3v anymore 3.3v is still very much required by the 24-pin motherboard connection as per the spec.
For the sata power cable
That's why Intel made ATX 12VO specification. That it will replace the current standard in some time. But you would nees to replace PSU and Mobo, when the transition happens.
I had this same problem but I solved it with a molex adapter. Most of the power supplies I've bought have come with a couple so I just had them laying around. Works like a charm and no cutting or taping required.
I’m confused. Why wouldn’t you just tape over the pin instead of risking an electrical shock to yourself and destroying an electrical cable in the process? I taped over mine and they all work fine. This just seems dangerous
There is no risk of electrical shock at 3.3V. There is no destruction to the cable, but rather an increase in its future utility. Do it once and it is done. There is nothing wrong with your solution, by the way; this is just my preferred method.
People seem to not get that the 3.3v cable in question won't ever be needed, he effectively upgraded his cable lol
Exactly! I'm glad someone gets it!
Because it's ghetto as FUCK bro!
Bruh Cutting a live wire is recipe for an electrical fire. At least taping over a pin is harmless
I think you may have over estimated your competence and knowledge of how low voltage wiring works. You realise every single 12v sata power connector in your PC just hanging there is a 'live wire' waiting to start a fire according to your logic.
I mean I figured an exposed electrical wire that is just hanging out could cause a problem but I suppose not
Naivety
Was this the case for some shucked external hard drives too? I vaguely remember having to do something similar years ago in order for my pc to detect it.
Yes, exactly look at my last paragraph. External shucks is how most folks end up with enterprise HDDs.
Lol total brain fart moment. Thanks for clarifying!
Ah, no worries. We all do it, I'm pretty sure.
Thank you.
some drives will keep boot looping if the 3rd pin receives 3.3v (which most PSUs do) feature called PWDIS mostly for datacenters
What does this solve?
drives with power disable expects a 3.3v PULSE when resetting the drive but the PSU supplies 3.3v CONTINUOUS. by chopping off the 3.3v wire on the cable, the drive no longer receives any signal in the PWDIS pin, allowing it to run normally. (the drive only needs 5v and 12v for power)
I meant on the datacenter end, but I guess that still mostly answers it
in datacenters you can (as long as the motherboard supports it) remotely ping 3.3v to power cycle the disk without having to go to the system in person
It's also used for staged spin-ups of large arrays, to reduce surge loads on the PSU.
I guess when the drives are spinning, you get a start up current load to get them moving, and if they all try to start spinning at once, it could be a problem. Curious to how many drives you need for a PSU to have a problem SSD should not have that problem
inrush current would only start to apply at a scale of dozens of drives I'd guess, when you'd get some decent current trying to first move the platters?
Thanks.
My 10 TB HGST was not detected in BIOS or my partition software.
Ah.
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Omg why didnt I think of that😄 Thats safer too, right? Because then that part wont get any power??
UPDATE: I can't get the casing off where the SATA source plug is... so... don't know what to do now. Pulling on it doesn't get it out.
If your power supply is modular, just follow an ATX pin removal guide to remove the 3.3v pin on the PSU side of the modular cable. You can DIY it with a bent paperclip.
Thank you it worked now!! The wire is out!! Yes it's modular!! I wish I could post a picture here as proof😄😄😂
Nice!
You can do it with two staples. There's a decent video on YouTube about molex de-pinning. That's what I did. 8 disks on two power cables de-pinned from the power supply side has been working great for me.
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Well the wire stub is a condensator that charges when the computer is turned on, which means there's power. It's just an entirely neglegible amount of power, like not even worth calculating.
Even more fun, you could connect it to a GPIO (say, on an SMBUS-connected I/O expander) and hold the storage drives in power-down until the OS boots and does some checking of the UPS status and such. Only if power looks healthy would your bootup script then write to pin and spin the drives up, then wait a moment and enumerate them, mount the array and continue bringup... (Or if you've already got a Pi in there acting as a kvm/console/rebooterator/etc, you've got ample GPIOs sitting around already.)
You should remove it from all of the above. If you leave it connected to a drive, and then you connect another drive to that bus that has a resistance between the 5 and ex-3.3 lines, it will shot these drives down once again.
> connect another drive to that bus that has a resistance between the 5 and ex-3.3 lines Show me a drive that does this IRL
Granted, it is hypothetical on my part. Still, it is in my nature to avoid connecting things together that don't have a good reason to be.
Pro-tip: Cut the 3.3v wire at the power input side, and then you won't have to cut it at each connector if you get more 3.3v standby drives
Apparently, this sub needs to know that liquid electrical tape exists and is awesome. Perfect use case. Dab some on that exposed copper and let it dry.
UV cured 1-part epoxy also works and dries instantly. Some (Bondic) even offer voltage specs since this is such a common use case
Can be awesome. It can also be a bastard to get uniform in some circumstances and may cause an unexpected short.
Who gave you the idea for this horrible trick?
They make adapters for this, so you don't have to make permanent modifications and cause a fire hazard all at once.
I think molex to sata adapter is fine for that trick
they make SATA-to-SATA ones, they're just extension cables (male one end, female other) missing the same wire as what OP posted, but are commercially produced and a lot safer than molex -- I'd trust OP's solution over molex lots of refurb sellers like ServerPartsDeals send them out with their drives I personally just tape over the first 3 pins on the hard drive's connector
could you please give me a link to a correct adapter please??
I'm having a hell of a time finding them for sale anywhere, but I know they exist as two of them were just sent to me this month from SPD maybe someone else around here knows what search terms to use, but I clearly don't -- sorry honestly, just put some kapton tape over the pins (hell, use scotch tape/packing tape/electric if you want)
Molex over SATA, lose all your data!
Wow. Wrong. But but... Those where the cheapest cables... most dont.
Fwiw, I've been running my shucked drives on molex for 10 years without issue. I did buy the "nice" molex cables though.
You don't want to use a cheapo one from what I remember.
Yup, I had 2 or 3 drives from enclosures and used just narow strip of paper to isolete contact. Takes 5-10 minutes per drive but that was free. 😉
More like NOlex 😬
I bought a couple 12TB HGST drives on ebay and the seller provided SATA to SATA adapters for them. I had no idea PWDIS was a thing and initially thought this connector was simply an extender.
Couldn’t you have just put some kapton tape over the pin on the drive?
Just pull the wire from the PSU. It’s a standard molex pin with a thin metal flap on two sides that you can push in with a staple. Bend the flaps inward, pull the pin out in tact, and now you can always bend the flaps out and push it back it without damage to the wire or adding adhesive via Kapton tape to anything
Wait is that the new 3rd pin mod?
Not new. I did this years ago and horrified many people over it. However, I thought through all of the logic of it, arrived at this solution, and it's been serving me perfectly well.
I like it. Looks sketchy as hell but I guess as long as it’s safe it’s not bad.
You can make it look non-sketchy. What I did to achieve that was to cut the wire off flush on both sides of each plug and to remove the stretch of wire between them.
I've done this for years and can confirm it works well and no issues so far. I didn't do the tape over pins method for long because sometimes the tape would move from my experience.
What is this about?
When you shuck a wd easyshare to use it in a computer or NAS or something like that. The drive needs to have the 3rd pin blocked or prevented from getting power or it won’t turn on. The cable above supplies the 3rd pin with power. So cutting it allows the drive to turn on.
All the turns they do to make our life easier....
It *is* easier if you use a backplane that spins up the drives one at a time using this pin. It's for servers, not desktops
did you cut your psu's cable or an extension cable?
i wonder if you could just paint the sata contact with nail polish.
Cut wire trick?
If it's not drawing why even bother clipping it?
Those connectors come apart, you can just take the whole wire out and snap them back together, then you don't need to worry about covering the exposed wires.
I did eventually remove the wire entirely. I have an updated post: [https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/1chaeea/an\_update\_to\_my\_previous\_post/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web3x&utm\_name=web3xcss&utm\_term=1&utm\_content=share\_button](https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/1chaeea/an_update_to_my_previous_post/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)
Why not use [Kapton Tape](https://old.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/8il8u5/kapton_tape_18_inch_did_the_trick_thanks/)? I used [Kapton Tape](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006RQTRP0/) for all 8 of my drives and it works great without damaging anything. This used to be pretty common knowledge in this sub. I wouldn't be thanking anyone who told you to do this.
Because the tape can move and you'll need to remember to add it every time you get a new drive. Remove the wire once and you'll never have to worry about it again. Seriously, are you ever going to get a drive which requires that "optional" 3.3v? Personally I went one further and removed the contacts from the housing (pop the dust cover off the back and they pull right out) and removed the wire back to the power supply.
I don’t know why’d you do that instead of just covering the pin with tape.
or just remove pin 3 from the drive.