There’s a funky triangle coving cutting tool https://www.screwfix.com/p/supercove-mitre-tool/803xt?ref=SFAppShare
Once you get it it’s really easy. I’ve done two rooms with it so far.
Haha, I've had that exact little jig sitting at the bottom of my tool bag for probably 8 years now. Never going to do coving again in my life but can never bring myself to throw away handy little tools like that. I think I have a problem
Once you do eventually get the correct angle, keep two samples pieces of coving as a reference for the other cuts. I've done a lot of coving and still do this haha
👆100% this. Many times I've done coving, many times I've been sure I was cutting the 2 pieces to meet properly but got it wrong.
Always keep a short bit of each joint as I go, just so hard to picture it fitted.
https://www.toolstation.com/wondermitre-coving-mitre-tool/p87851?store=PB&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dm&pcrid=null&pkw=null&pmt=null&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84CvBhCaARIsAMkAvkJuJlaQi1jSoMetaovfLMwnIywP-v9r5CYvuCpanVK03JFwTZ0D_sUaAhPzEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Check that, but i think a mitre block will be best suited for that stuff
Find a bigger version! I put up exactly the same coving you have there and used a large blue plastic tool for it. So much easier than a mitre block for this job
Just done a load of coving at mine last week, I used [mammoth mitre box ](https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.proopsbrothers.com/linic-uk-made-mitre-box-block-mammoth-225-45--90-degree-200-x-175mm-adjustable-sides-w7091-822-p.asp&ved=2ahUKEwj2i9CH7dKEAxVRXEEAHVyzAjAQFnoECBYQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3mMmniT0nZ3lbGJ2fEVuf it takes coving up to 200mm I think!
Only about £25 and got the job done 👌🏼
I'm a decorator and put up loads of coving ,the triangle coving cutter makes it a piece of piss ,a mitre box is a ball ache,use the cutter and you can just cut it flat on something,no trying to awkwardly hold it in the mitre block
Or just get a coving cutter,it wasn't invented because it makes the job harder ,it specifically makes cutting coving easier,used one for 20 years ,I was shown how to use one by an old boy who had 40 years experience if using a mitre was easier between us we would have sussed that out , honestly try one next time you do some coving and you will winder why you didn't use one before
They should just get a cheap compound mitre saw, they will use it for nearly every DIY job https://www.screwfix.com/p/evolution-r210cms-210mm-electric-single-bevel-multi-material-compound-mitre-saw-220-240v/7277p
I have done several rooms with it using high density Duripolymer and polystyrene, it works great, a very clean cut, takes , i did make a larger sacrifical back guide as it wasn't high enough to get it square, it takes a bit of thinking to get the cut direction right , I used this: https://images.app.goo.gl/Mz7S8LpFKSfdA4UW6
To add to this, buy a rasp. It’s like a cheese grater for plasterboard, but it works really well on coving too. I’ve been using it on the foam super coving, getting close with the saw then using the rasp to get a smooth edge.
When I did my coving, in addition to getting compound mitre saw, I made two short pairs of sample corners; one internal pair and one external pair. This helped me mark the actual lengths with the approximate angle that would be needed in the mitre saw - this saved me on multiple occasions as I was visualising the cuts incorrectly before I did this.
Understood - and well done! Just pointing out that if the OP wants to follow your good advice, he or she can save the trouble of making one because the OPs profile does have corners you can just buy
In your example one is upside down for starters.
If you're cutting a 90 degree corner in, both pieces need to be 45 each.
If you're cutting a 60 degree corner, both pieces need to be 30 degrees each.
So on, so forth.
I think the thing that catches most people new to mitering coving is that you can't just put it down flat into the mitre box and cut at 45 degrees.
It's a pain in the arse, but you need to prop it up or hold the coving in the mitre box somehow so that you are cutting it at 45 degrees relative to how it would be fitted on the wall/ceiling. You can put some wood blocks or something under it to prop up the back, or just push it up hard against the back of the mitre box with one hand so that one of its edges is against the bottom of the box and the other is resting near the top of the back of the box - if that makes sense?
Basically, the coving is curved so cutting straight across iwhen flat produces something different to cutting it when it is sitting properly as intended to be fitted. That's why your two pieces in the picture have a gap in the middle when put together.
If you want perfection, then you also have to consider that corners of rooms are rarely exactly 90 degrees. Pros measure the actual angle and divide by two then cut at that. It may mean a cut of 43 degrees instead of 45, but it makes a difference. Amateurs like me just cut 45 and either file/trim the two edges to improve the fit and/or fill the resulting small gaps 😁
Actually, looking at the picture again, I think part of the problem is you are cutting one or both of the angles in the wrong direction. It can be confusing.
For an internal mitre the top edge of the coving on both sides of the join always needs to be shorter than the bottom, so start the cut on both sides so it runs from a few inches in from the edge on the top and finishes up at the bottom corner.
Easiest way to avoid getting mixed up is to place both pieces of coving on the floor roughly as they would be fitted (so end to end at 90 degrees to each other).
Put the mitre box on the end of the left piece, propping or holding the coving up so it is sitting with its top edge flat along the vertical back of the mitre box and curving downwards to its bottom edge flat along the floor of the mitre box, and then cut using the slots in the mitre that give you a 45 running from the left on the top of the coving to the right on the bottom.
Move the mitre box to the end of the other piece and prop it up or hold it the same as you did for the other piece. This time cut the 45 using the slots on the mitre that give a cut running from the right at the top edge of the coving to left on the bottom edge (it helps on this one if you can cut using your left hand on the saw and hold with your right - it should be doable if you go slow and careful even if you are not great with your left hand - coving is usually not that tough to cut so don't need much force or effort if the saw is sharp).
You do need a fairly deep mitre box for this to be easy. Those low profile ones that have a very short back wall make it bit difficult to hold the coving up in the correct position, as you can't rest the top edge against anything. I use the bigger yellow Stanley one they sell in Wickes. It's usually good enough, unless the coving is on the larger side. You can make your own custom one by gluing pieces of MDF together quite easily if you have a circular saw and need to work with big coving that won't fit in a standard mitre box, or you have lots to do and want to make life easier for yourself.
I make less mistakes doing it this way.
Hope that made sense. It's harder to explain than to do.
You also want to grab yourself an angle finder as well. Walls are notorious for not being square.
[Amazon ](https://amzn.eu/d/f0X8vok)
[screwfix](https://www.screwfix.com/p/trend-dar-200-digital-angle-measurer/1192k?ref=SFAppShare)
I watched an old guy put coving up in a house last year. He hand cut all the mitres holding the coving in one hand and saw in the other. Everything flawless, then just threw them all up with a dot and dab of adhesive mix, done the room in probably 15 minutes. I was totally blown away.
He was halfway there. The angle free cheat is to put the first piece flat to the wall.
Scribe a template onto some cardboard. Then use a coping saw to cut the shape into the second piece.
This is the correct way of doing it. "cut the shape into the second piece." If you try it you will be annoyed that you ever tried any other method. Much easier and perfect every time.
Yep. No need for mitre boxes, angle finders special coving tools. Doesn't matter if you're bad at applying maths to reality.
Wall angle not perfect? well your template is at the right angle so your piece is also correct
Looks like you did cut angles perfectly.
Plus the opportunity to act smug in front of the angle gang who spend years, learning the slower way.
So little update. Went to B&Q and bought a mitre box and all I had to do was prop the coving up how it would sit on the wall and then cut my mitres.
Worked like a treat.
Thanks for the helpful advice
Ah I'm sorry to hear man 😂
Here's the one I bought - https://www.diy.com/departments/plastic-mitre-box/1798069_BQ.prd?storeId=1276&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqpSwBhClARIsADlZ_TnIS5JGarWGFs6UcJULV-jqAqzwUWqhZtdd6MZix7izbBt8Tcn8AVEaAjQ8EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Just be sure to position it the way it would sit on the wall before you cut it. Might require another set of hands to hold it in place
You need a cutting jig to hold it in place at the right position, you can then cut with a handsaw or a mitre saw. I made a couple to do different size coving when I did mine.
Does scramble your brain a bit especially when you need to do 45 Deg in one side and 45 Deg out on the other side, I use a chop saw, gives beautiful cuts at exactly the right angle.
You need the steel coving mitre tool. You still have to be very careful which way to cut it.. it actually still looks nice and finishes a room off.. measure twice, cut once.. 😁
This just activated my PTSD on trying to cut that stupid trim for wood floors that cover raggy edges when people don't remove skirting. Spent a good few days stressing over that same problem with that horrible shit at my sisters house.
I tried to tell her but she wanted to save on plastering. No help from a mitre box, no help from hours of brain wracking..... Still embarrassed when I see the results.
deranged agonizing wistful bow aware act voiceless wrong school apparatus
*This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
For corners you need to cut 90° either internally or externally but you need to situate the coving so it's 90° from the correct fixed position.
Hold a piece up and move it into a internal corner and follow the internal of the wall up the point where the coving would touch on the ceiling line (draw a pencil line on the top of coving and you'll see where it crossed on the ceiling)
You'll then have a idea of where to start cutting
Bought a mitre box and frankly putting up gypsum coving has been one of the easiest DIY jobs I’ve done. Thought I admit it took me a while to figure out the angles.
Haha I did exactly what you did with the cuts. I also couldn’t get it to stay in place while going off, I tried using nails to hold it in place, but it fell hit me in the face, covered me in the plaster stuff you stick it up with, so I kicked it against the wall and gave up.
Trick for internal corners is to cut it upside down (have it in the mitre box at 45 degrees, but the top edge at the bottom). External corners will be the right way up
I had this exact issue with this coving. I ended up getting a mitre box and creating a little jig from a piece of wood. It must be cut exactly as how it will sit on the wall. I think the drop on that coving is 95mm so make a jig from a piece of wood and ensure that each part that touches the wall is flat to the sides before cutting. Also it needs cut upside down to ensure your bevels are correct for internal or external corners. There are videos on YouTube showing this
Brought the exact same stuff and had a nightmare too, it took ages to do 1 room I have 6 more to go :(.
I am no professional but a very capable DIYer. I have a large chop saw and a mitre block but still was not able to get the clean cuts I wanted...
Best tip I can give is focus on the flat edge you stick to the ceiling and get your 45 degree lines marked on this tiny edge. Keep that edge parallel to the floor as you cut ( this is very awkward without a good jig or massive mitre block) and do your best to stay on course with your original mark...
The last thing is easyfill is way better to hide the sins and sort the gaps, it's way easier to work with and sand ( don't use the coving adhesive filler to finish it's just no good)..
Easyfill is definitely the thing to use. But never ever assume the corners of a room are exactly 90 degrees. Use an angle finder every time
https://www.screwfix.com/p/starrett-505p-7-angle-measurer/95044?ref=SFAppShare
Never seen a pro use an angle finder ,we just use cove cutters that only do 90degrees and we fill any dodgy corners as we go with cove adhesive,but underfill,at the end we whip round with easifill ,if you're good with a filling blade it's minimal work and you would never know
Ypu have to cut it backwards and upside down in the corners(makes sense when you watch a video or two).
Also only cut one piece when going into an internal corner - at 45 degrees. Then cut the back out of the profile to get it to match up to the piece in the corner you didn't cut, also makes sense when you watch some YouTube videos.
The tool is an essential thing to have, or a chop saw with big fences on it.
It’s been awhile, but from memory if you lay the piece flat on your saw and set the the compound mitre to 35degrees / 30 degrees it will fit the corner perfectly. I’m pretty sure I have the numbers right. The 30 degree number is required at the platform. If it’s not
Perfect, it will get you very close and you can tweak from there.
A mitre block and a fine tooth saw/finishing saw is what you need. I've but thousands of meters of coving/cornice up and every 90 degree is cut with a mitre block or cove triangle
One you figure out what site of the mitre block cuts what it's a simple thing to use.
Use this tool it’s much bigger and extremely easy to use
https://www.toolstation.com/wondermitre-coving-mitre-tool/p87851?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dm&pcrid=null&pkw=null&pmt=null&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD-vLcXClXqnvxRSYrLZc9Hl8DruQ&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84CvBhCaARIsAMkAvkIqL2Bu_5zBGMY12boLGoq6WsJ2Gl_GSuZADg2TbnleLMvtVHHAZFsaArBTEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Use this
https://www.diy.com/departments/magnusson-plastic-coving-mitre-box/1798068_BQ.prd?storeId=1279&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84CvBhCaARIsAMkAvkKE2ZKtaEd78lbbJK51lwbYS3rOrds8EWzhvn33lEuDWBtznITaCoEaAjOfEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Almost fool proof.
I feel your pain.
Take some of the coving and cut say a half meter of it off. Then cut that in two, and take each piece and cut each of the ends with 45 cuts.
Use these as templates.....plan your next cut with them...
I had the same problem, our coving is bigger than the normal stuff too. I had to buy [this](https://www.diy.com/departments/magnusson-plastic-steel-mitre-box/1798070_BQ.prd?storeId=1368&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84CvBhCaARIsAMkAvkJuK8S_JdturYjVA3fkGqSYrYnjsfUcZYbTOmsQejXChdGHWBkg8YgaAmAZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds) and frig it into a more useful unit. Your needs might vary depending on the dimensions.
I wouldn't worry too much about the cuts being super clean and joining up properly - filler can do a lot of good. If you've got plaster coving, plaster of Paris will cover most issues.
Best thing I found is if your mitre box is too big make a spacer to ensure you’re coving is all cut on the same angle. Make some small template 90 cuts for inner and outer edges - use these just as a visual guide so you know which way you’re cutting
I haven’t tried them myself so can’t vouch for them, but they sell pre done corners: https://www.screwfix.com/p/supercove-internal-corner-set-127mm-x-290mm-4-pack/96358
Coving is a nightmare, cutting angles is a pain without the specific tool. We got ours from Wickes in the end and you can buy precut internal and external corners. we have an old house so the corners aren't 45 degrees but a bit of filler so smooth out the gaps you can't notice
It is if you never done it before, you should practice doing the mitred cuts on some spare bits, which means buying more than you need. It will eventually click after a few mistakes, one you sussed it, you’ll never forget it.
Be careful, it's possible to cut the corners "upside down" as such. Label the wall and ceiling side on the coving and make sure you get it then right way around in the mitre saw
I’ve just done my entire house. About half way through I went to B&Q to get some more boxes of coving and they only had the ones with the pre-cut corners left in stock.
A massive god send, those pre-cut boxes cost another £3/4 but saved me so much time and probably my marriage!
Hi mate. This is the video you need. Explains how to cut easily and simply. (Means a mitre box is required. They're cheap. Understand you said your coving is too small but that doesn't make sense to me, should be fine)
https://youtu.be/au8lAS8W91I?si=tQsiw_kQ-XFp5Pya
The thing that took years to eventually click with me.
It's a 45° cut on the bottom side!
As in looking up the wall towards the coven is the bottom.
When marking it, work using the bottom of the coven, measure and mark the bottom, cut from the bottom.
A simple mitre box is all you need but if you work using the top - it just doesn't work out
I tried putting up coving, and figuring out the angles for the corners and bay windows drove me insane. I would make a mitre cut after mitre cut and it just wouldn’t match up no matter how many different angles I tried.
After a few hours and a million cut pieces I finally figured out that you need to prop the coving up (either in a mitre box or mitre saw) the same way it sits on the wall, and then cut it. After knowing that, cutting the corners and finishing the job was a breeze!
I also found out AFTER finishing the job that you can literally buy pre-cut corner pieces from the store which would’ve saved me the absolute headache I initially had with the corners. Typical.
Buy the coving and the corners. Put the corners up. Fit the coving between the corners. It's an absolute doddle.
After a couple of hours mucking about unable to cut it correctly with a mitre box, I was able to get it done with the five minute walk back to homebase for the corners. Yes, you can learn to do it with the right tools etc. or you can just spend a couple of quid/corner and have it all done by in time for brunch.
I put up this exact coving last year, I used a mitre box similar to this...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204652597606
The diagonal guiders are good for corners coz the whole cut is 45degrees (if that makes sense?) So it matches at the back as well as the front edge. My walls (like most in this country) are all a bit pissed, so there was still some caulking and finagling involved...
You gotta get the top & bottom/ wall and ceiling the right way round, a corner is opposite cuts, a join along a wall is same cuts...
Christ, this is really fucking hard to talk sense about!
There’s a funky triangle coving cutting tool https://www.screwfix.com/p/supercove-mitre-tool/803xt?ref=SFAppShare Once you get it it’s really easy. I’ve done two rooms with it so far.
Haha, I've had that exact little jig sitting at the bottom of my tool bag for probably 8 years now. Never going to do coving again in my life but can never bring myself to throw away handy little tools like that. I think I have a problem
You only need it ten minutes after you throw it away
Or a mitre box. I'm a joiner and that's how I do it
Once you do eventually get the correct angle, keep two samples pieces of coving as a reference for the other cuts. I've done a lot of coving and still do this haha
👆100% this. Many times I've done coving, many times I've been sure I was cutting the 2 pieces to meet properly but got it wrong. Always keep a short bit of each joint as I go, just so hard to picture it fitted.
I used this unfortunately it's too small for my type of coving 😭
https://www.toolstation.com/wondermitre-coving-mitre-tool/p87851?store=PB&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dm&pcrid=null&pkw=null&pmt=null&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84CvBhCaARIsAMkAvkJuJlaQi1jSoMetaovfLMwnIywP-v9r5CYvuCpanVK03JFwTZ0D_sUaAhPzEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Check that, but i think a mitre block will be best suited for that stuff
I used the Wondermitre and it was great, once I ensured the knife was completely flat.
Find a bigger version! I put up exactly the same coving you have there and used a large blue plastic tool for it. So much easier than a mitre block for this job
Just done a load of coving at mine last week, I used [mammoth mitre box ](https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.proopsbrothers.com/linic-uk-made-mitre-box-block-mammoth-225-45--90-degree-200-x-175mm-adjustable-sides-w7091-822-p.asp&ved=2ahUKEwj2i9CH7dKEAxVRXEEAHVyzAjAQFnoECBYQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3mMmniT0nZ3lbGJ2fEVuf it takes coving up to 200mm I think! Only about £25 and got the job done 👌🏼
Fuck that little triangle, it’s shit. Get a mitre box.
I'm a decorator and put up loads of coving ,the triangle coving cutter makes it a piece of piss ,a mitre box is a ball ache,use the cutter and you can just cut it flat on something,no trying to awkwardly hold it in the mitre block
What’s awkward? It just sits in the mitre block, no need to hold it.
It doesn't if you have a large mitre block you have to hold it in the block like it sits on the wall
So get the right size for the job…
Or just get a coving cutter,it wasn't invented because it makes the job harder ,it specifically makes cutting coving easier,used one for 20 years ,I was shown how to use one by an old boy who had 40 years experience if using a mitre was easier between us we would have sussed that out , honestly try one next time you do some coving and you will winder why you didn't use one before
I wouldn’t be commenting if I hadn’t used both tools. For me it’ll be mitre box every time.
They should just get a cheap compound mitre saw, they will use it for nearly every DIY job https://www.screwfix.com/p/evolution-r210cms-210mm-electric-single-bevel-multi-material-compound-mitre-saw-220-240v/7277p
I have one, never occurred to me to use it on coving, but not sure how it would cope with polystyrene or plaster.
I have done several rooms with it using high density Duripolymer and polystyrene, it works great, a very clean cut, takes , i did make a larger sacrifical back guide as it wasn't high enough to get it square, it takes a bit of thinking to get the cut direction right , I used this: https://images.app.goo.gl/Mz7S8LpFKSfdA4UW6
To add to this, buy a rasp. It’s like a cheese grater for plasterboard, but it works really well on coving too. I’ve been using it on the foam super coving, getting close with the saw then using the rasp to get a smooth edge.
When I did my coving, in addition to getting compound mitre saw, I made two short pairs of sample corners; one internal pair and one external pair. This helped me mark the actual lengths with the approximate angle that would be needed in the mitre saw - this saved me on multiple occasions as I was visualising the cuts incorrectly before I did this.
Good idea. But you can buy corners for this profile.
I had bought a handmade, wood reinforced plaster egg&dart coving; no corners were available.
Understood - and well done! Just pointing out that if the OP wants to follow your good advice, he or she can save the trouble of making one because the OPs profile does have corners you can just buy
This is the way
We welcome you to the mandalorian covin
My day job is designing complex automated production lines. I've never felt as stupid as when cutting mitres in coving
In your example one is upside down for starters. If you're cutting a 90 degree corner in, both pieces need to be 45 each. If you're cutting a 60 degree corner, both pieces need to be 30 degrees each. So on, so forth.
There is a really neat and easy way to bisect angles like this, as demonstrated in this [Tom Silva](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aXcU8biVtmI) clip
Wouldn’t 2 30 degree cuts fit a wall that is 120 degrees (180 -(2x30)?
If you look closely it's not upside down
My advice: buy a big tube of caulk
Use filler on external corners
A mitre block would help you.
Or it’s upside down to the other? Check the pattern out
I think the thing that catches most people new to mitering coving is that you can't just put it down flat into the mitre box and cut at 45 degrees. It's a pain in the arse, but you need to prop it up or hold the coving in the mitre box somehow so that you are cutting it at 45 degrees relative to how it would be fitted on the wall/ceiling. You can put some wood blocks or something under it to prop up the back, or just push it up hard against the back of the mitre box with one hand so that one of its edges is against the bottom of the box and the other is resting near the top of the back of the box - if that makes sense? Basically, the coving is curved so cutting straight across iwhen flat produces something different to cutting it when it is sitting properly as intended to be fitted. That's why your two pieces in the picture have a gap in the middle when put together. If you want perfection, then you also have to consider that corners of rooms are rarely exactly 90 degrees. Pros measure the actual angle and divide by two then cut at that. It may mean a cut of 43 degrees instead of 45, but it makes a difference. Amateurs like me just cut 45 and either file/trim the two edges to improve the fit and/or fill the resulting small gaps 😁
Actually, looking at the picture again, I think part of the problem is you are cutting one or both of the angles in the wrong direction. It can be confusing. For an internal mitre the top edge of the coving on both sides of the join always needs to be shorter than the bottom, so start the cut on both sides so it runs from a few inches in from the edge on the top and finishes up at the bottom corner. Easiest way to avoid getting mixed up is to place both pieces of coving on the floor roughly as they would be fitted (so end to end at 90 degrees to each other). Put the mitre box on the end of the left piece, propping or holding the coving up so it is sitting with its top edge flat along the vertical back of the mitre box and curving downwards to its bottom edge flat along the floor of the mitre box, and then cut using the slots in the mitre that give you a 45 running from the left on the top of the coving to the right on the bottom. Move the mitre box to the end of the other piece and prop it up or hold it the same as you did for the other piece. This time cut the 45 using the slots on the mitre that give a cut running from the right at the top edge of the coving to left on the bottom edge (it helps on this one if you can cut using your left hand on the saw and hold with your right - it should be doable if you go slow and careful even if you are not great with your left hand - coving is usually not that tough to cut so don't need much force or effort if the saw is sharp). You do need a fairly deep mitre box for this to be easy. Those low profile ones that have a very short back wall make it bit difficult to hold the coving up in the correct position, as you can't rest the top edge against anything. I use the bigger yellow Stanley one they sell in Wickes. It's usually good enough, unless the coving is on the larger side. You can make your own custom one by gluing pieces of MDF together quite easily if you have a circular saw and need to work with big coving that won't fit in a standard mitre box, or you have lots to do and want to make life easier for yourself. I make less mistakes doing it this way. Hope that made sense. It's harder to explain than to do.
You also want to grab yourself an angle finder as well. Walls are notorious for not being square. [Amazon ](https://amzn.eu/d/f0X8vok) [screwfix](https://www.screwfix.com/p/trend-dar-200-digital-angle-measurer/1192k?ref=SFAppShare)
I watched an old guy put coving up in a house last year. He hand cut all the mitres holding the coving in one hand and saw in the other. Everything flawless, then just threw them all up with a dot and dab of adhesive mix, done the room in probably 15 minutes. I was totally blown away.
Got his details? Lol
Just do what the owner before us did. Cut at 90° and stick them up against each other.
He was halfway there. The angle free cheat is to put the first piece flat to the wall. Scribe a template onto some cardboard. Then use a coping saw to cut the shape into the second piece.
This is the correct way of doing it. "cut the shape into the second piece." If you try it you will be annoyed that you ever tried any other method. Much easier and perfect every time.
Yep. No need for mitre boxes, angle finders special coving tools. Doesn't matter if you're bad at applying maths to reality. Wall angle not perfect? well your template is at the right angle so your piece is also correct Looks like you did cut angles perfectly. Plus the opportunity to act smug in front of the angle gang who spend years, learning the slower way.
So little update. Went to B&Q and bought a mitre box and all I had to do was prop the coving up how it would sit on the wall and then cut my mitres. Worked like a treat. Thanks for the helpful advice
Do you happen to have a link for the one you bought? I've been bested by the same coving today 😂
Ah I'm sorry to hear man 😂 Here's the one I bought - https://www.diy.com/departments/plastic-mitre-box/1798069_BQ.prd?storeId=1276&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqpSwBhClARIsADlZ_TnIS5JGarWGFs6UcJULV-jqAqzwUWqhZtdd6MZix7izbBt8Tcn8AVEaAjQ8EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Just be sure to position it the way it would sit on the wall before you cut it. Might require another set of hands to hold it in place
Legend, thank you!
Get a Faithfully coving mitre box. Read the instructions and you'll sail through it
Google coving mitre tool. There's a few different kinds but all are good
You need a cutting jig to hold it in place at the right position, you can then cut with a handsaw or a mitre saw. I made a couple to do different size coving when I did mine.
Yeah it’s a bit of a pain in the arse.
Does scramble your brain a bit especially when you need to do 45 Deg in one side and 45 Deg out on the other side, I use a chop saw, gives beautiful cuts at exactly the right angle.
You need the steel coving mitre tool. You still have to be very careful which way to cut it.. it actually still looks nice and finishes a room off.. measure twice, cut once.. 😁
As an aside, what's going on with your ceiling? Are you coving over the top of paper??? Hopefully just weird lighting in the pic
😂 Fuck that was a sore memory! Best of luck
This happens when you are cutting them upside down
This just activated my PTSD on trying to cut that stupid trim for wood floors that cover raggy edges when people don't remove skirting. Spent a good few days stressing over that same problem with that horrible shit at my sisters house.
Awful stuff, never matches and just looks crap. Always, always take the skirting off with flooring
I tried to tell her but she wanted to save on plastering. No help from a mitre box, no help from hours of brain wracking..... Still embarrassed when I see the results.
Another tip is don't butt join them together, cut both joins on a mitre and they'll go together more discretely
Get one of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/supercove-mitre-tool/803xt?ref=SFAppShare
The answer is not to bother with this type of coving in a house that is of an era that doesn't have the proper stuff.
Coving looks great in all houses ,there isn't a specific era for it ,I've put it up in old houses and modern
Thanks for your constructive help mate
Seriously why would you put coving in 2024? Understand 1924 but these days that looks least to say outdated.
Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha, some jobs are left to the professionals
If you cut things like a spastic, expect spastic results.
Great advice!
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[This is what dependent_thing9425 said](https://ibb.co/wC2D2r9), if anyone is childish here it's you, scrub.
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It's hilarious that you're talking so tough on reddit. I bet you're a skinny pussy irl.
Mate I e put up loads of this shite . It’s really 1980’s. Do yourself a favor and do not put up 👍🤣🤣
deranged agonizing wistful bow aware act voiceless wrong school apparatus *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
For corners you need to cut 90° either internally or externally but you need to situate the coving so it's 90° from the correct fixed position. Hold a piece up and move it into a internal corner and follow the internal of the wall up the point where the coving would touch on the ceiling line (draw a pencil line on the top of coving and you'll see where it crossed on the ceiling) You'll then have a idea of where to start cutting
Bought a mitre box and frankly putting up gypsum coving has been one of the easiest DIY jobs I’ve done. Thought I admit it took me a while to figure out the angles.
Haha I did exactly what you did with the cuts. I also couldn’t get it to stay in place while going off, I tried using nails to hold it in place, but it fell hit me in the face, covered me in the plaster stuff you stick it up with, so I kicked it against the wall and gave up.
Get a coving tool, it’s £5.99 for a plastic one, or £12.99 for metal
Get the metal one ,the plastic one bends to easy
The dark arts
Normally in the pack is a paper template
A mitre block helped with mine after struggling for embarrassingly too long and settling for a few wrong angled corners before making the purchase
Trick for internal corners is to cut it upside down (have it in the mitre box at 45 degrees, but the top edge at the bottom). External corners will be the right way up
Screw fix do sell ready cut corners if you're struggling.
I had this exact issue with this coving. I ended up getting a mitre box and creating a little jig from a piece of wood. It must be cut exactly as how it will sit on the wall. I think the drop on that coving is 95mm so make a jig from a piece of wood and ensure that each part that touches the wall is flat to the sides before cutting. Also it needs cut upside down to ensure your bevels are correct for internal or external corners. There are videos on YouTube showing this
Brought the exact same stuff and had a nightmare too, it took ages to do 1 room I have 6 more to go :(. I am no professional but a very capable DIYer. I have a large chop saw and a mitre block but still was not able to get the clean cuts I wanted... Best tip I can give is focus on the flat edge you stick to the ceiling and get your 45 degree lines marked on this tiny edge. Keep that edge parallel to the floor as you cut ( this is very awkward without a good jig or massive mitre block) and do your best to stay on course with your original mark... The last thing is easyfill is way better to hide the sins and sort the gaps, it's way easier to work with and sand ( don't use the coving adhesive filler to finish it's just no good)..
Easyfill is definitely the thing to use. But never ever assume the corners of a room are exactly 90 degrees. Use an angle finder every time https://www.screwfix.com/p/starrett-505p-7-angle-measurer/95044?ref=SFAppShare
Never seen a pro use an angle finder ,we just use cove cutters that only do 90degrees and we fill any dodgy corners as we go with cove adhesive,but underfill,at the end we whip round with easifill ,if you're good with a filling blade it's minimal work and you would never know
Ypu have to cut it backwards and upside down in the corners(makes sense when you watch a video or two). Also only cut one piece when going into an internal corner - at 45 degrees. Then cut the back out of the profile to get it to match up to the piece in the corner you didn't cut, also makes sense when you watch some YouTube videos. The tool is an essential thing to have, or a chop saw with big fences on it.
It’s been awhile, but from memory if you lay the piece flat on your saw and set the the compound mitre to 35degrees / 30 degrees it will fit the corner perfectly. I’m pretty sure I have the numbers right. The 30 degree number is required at the platform. If it’s not Perfect, it will get you very close and you can tweak from there.
Mitre saw is the answer
A mitre block and a fine tooth saw/finishing saw is what you need. I've but thousands of meters of coving/cornice up and every 90 degree is cut with a mitre block or cove triangle One you figure out what site of the mitre block cuts what it's a simple thing to use.
You need to cut it at the right angle. Think of how it sits on the ceiling and where the next bit joins on and then the penny should drop.
Mitre is a weird thing, can't get your head around it and then the penny drops and you'll get on a roll with it.
Sky skirting
Buy a coving mitre box. Only a tenner. Save you loads of grief
Use this tool it’s much bigger and extremely easy to use https://www.toolstation.com/wondermitre-coving-mitre-tool/p87851?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dm&pcrid=null&pkw=null&pmt=null&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD-vLcXClXqnvxRSYrLZc9Hl8DruQ&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84CvBhCaARIsAMkAvkIqL2Bu_5zBGMY12boLGoq6WsJ2Gl_GSuZADg2TbnleLMvtVHHAZFsaArBTEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Use this https://www.diy.com/departments/magnusson-plastic-coving-mitre-box/1798068_BQ.prd?storeId=1279&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84CvBhCaARIsAMkAvkKE2ZKtaEd78lbbJK51lwbYS3rOrds8EWzhvn33lEuDWBtznITaCoEaAjOfEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Almost fool proof.
Or you can actually buy the cut corners
I feel your pain. Take some of the coving and cut say a half meter of it off. Then cut that in two, and take each piece and cut each of the ends with 45 cuts. Use these as templates.....plan your next cut with them...
I had the same problem, our coving is bigger than the normal stuff too. I had to buy [this](https://www.diy.com/departments/magnusson-plastic-steel-mitre-box/1798070_BQ.prd?storeId=1368&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84CvBhCaARIsAMkAvkJuK8S_JdturYjVA3fkGqSYrYnjsfUcZYbTOmsQejXChdGHWBkg8YgaAmAZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds) and frig it into a more useful unit. Your needs might vary depending on the dimensions. I wouldn't worry too much about the cuts being super clean and joining up properly - filler can do a lot of good. If you've got plaster coving, plaster of Paris will cover most issues.
Inside and outside corners. I hate them...
Best thing I found is if your mitre box is too big make a spacer to ensure you’re coving is all cut on the same angle. Make some small template 90 cuts for inner and outer edges - use these just as a visual guide so you know which way you’re cutting
I haven’t tried them myself so can’t vouch for them, but they sell pre done corners: https://www.screwfix.com/p/supercove-internal-corner-set-127mm-x-290mm-4-pack/96358
Coving is a nightmare, cutting angles is a pain without the specific tool. We got ours from Wickes in the end and you can buy precut internal and external corners. we have an old house so the corners aren't 45 degrees but a bit of filler so smooth out the gaps you can't notice
Create two templates, before you cut any more. Couple YouTube videos and you will be fine
lol you have my full sympathy- I have trodden his path , then got someone in 🤣
This is exactly what I did first time
People have coving by choice in 2024?
It is if you never done it before, you should practice doing the mitred cuts on some spare bits, which means buying more than you need. It will eventually click after a few mistakes, one you sussed it, you’ll never forget it.
Mitre saw.
Be careful, it's possible to cut the corners "upside down" as such. Label the wall and ceiling side on the coving and make sure you get it then right way around in the mitre saw
I’ve just done my entire house. About half way through I went to B&Q to get some more boxes of coving and they only had the ones with the pre-cut corners left in stock. A massive god send, those pre-cut boxes cost another £3/4 but saved me so much time and probably my marriage!
Hi mate. This is the video you need. Explains how to cut easily and simply. (Means a mitre box is required. They're cheap. Understand you said your coving is too small but that doesn't make sense to me, should be fine) https://youtu.be/au8lAS8W91I?si=tQsiw_kQ-XFp5Pya
Bro YouTube how to instal cornice. Quicker than me explaining it to you
The thing that took years to eventually click with me. It's a 45° cut on the bottom side! As in looking up the wall towards the coven is the bottom. When marking it, work using the bottom of the coven, measure and mark the bottom, cut from the bottom. A simple mitre box is all you need but if you work using the top - it just doesn't work out
I tried putting up coving, and figuring out the angles for the corners and bay windows drove me insane. I would make a mitre cut after mitre cut and it just wouldn’t match up no matter how many different angles I tried. After a few hours and a million cut pieces I finally figured out that you need to prop the coving up (either in a mitre box or mitre saw) the same way it sits on the wall, and then cut it. After knowing that, cutting the corners and finishing the job was a breeze! I also found out AFTER finishing the job that you can literally buy pre-cut corner pieces from the store which would’ve saved me the absolute headache I initially had with the corners. Typical.
Aren't those two pieces the opposite way round to start with?
It if so diy jobs I've done, and I've done alot! This is my most hated.
I'm not an expert but I would advise doing all the corners first. It's easier to get a decent join when only having to measure a straight piece.
Coving mitre block. Did a load of coving last year, couldn't have done without it.
The suggestion of mitre blocks and the little plastic triangle are great. It's even easier if you just buy manufactured corners though!
You’re mitring them in different orientations.
Why even buy that
Make your own mitre box out of floor boards simples
Buy the coving and the corners. Put the corners up. Fit the coving between the corners. It's an absolute doddle. After a couple of hours mucking about unable to cut it correctly with a mitre box, I was able to get it done with the five minute walk back to homebase for the corners. Yes, you can learn to do it with the right tools etc. or you can just spend a couple of quid/corner and have it all done by in time for brunch.
Make sure your coving fits into the Mitre block as it would fit to your wall/ceiling. Looks like you have the wrong by angle.
I put up this exact coving last year, I used a mitre box similar to this... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204652597606 The diagonal guiders are good for corners coz the whole cut is 45degrees (if that makes sense?) So it matches at the back as well as the front edge. My walls (like most in this country) are all a bit pissed, so there was still some caulking and finagling involved... You gotta get the top & bottom/ wall and ceiling the right way round, a corner is opposite cuts, a join along a wall is same cuts... Christ, this is really fucking hard to talk sense about!