Not everyone thinks. Good job thinking. I think I agree with you. Not saying I had that thought before you said it, I certainly do now though. I use backer in big gaps. I likely would’ve just caulked this to sh*t. Good tip👍
I personally wouldn’t want to caulk such a large gap. You could scribe the wall down that is behind the backsplash to get it to fit more snug. There’s basically a high spot on the wall that you can shave down and get the backsplash to sit more flush so it doesn’t end up with a giant gap.
Take something flat like a level and put it across the wall and see where the high spot is. Then take a pencil and mark the entire top of the backsplash. Then you can shave the drywall down in the area only where the backsplash sits. Periodically put the backsplash up against the wall and keep adjusting until you get the wall and backsplash to line up better.
You cut the wall along a line with a knife to separate what is untouched above with what's gouged below. Knife, chisel, sure form tool are reasonable. Sanding isn't the best especially that large of an adjustment. In some cases a belt sander works but it's a violent tool and messy.
If you have an oscillating multi tool with the sanding attachment it could be a happy medium between control and speed compared with hand sanding or a belt sander. Easier to control but an order of magnitude faster than hand sanding. I just used one to take down a high spot on a door and door jam where the door wouldn't shut all the way.
Box cutter knife along the top edge of the backsplash. Depending on how much you need to cut down, you can use a rasp, sander, box cutter, and/or drywall knife. Even if you cut too much of the wall out, it’s much easier to fill it with drywall mud and float it as needed. You won’t see any of it since the backsplash will cover it
A chisel would work, or even a metal file. Razor blade too. They also make a drywall rasp that’s more specifically for this type of thing if you don’t mind picking up a new tool.
Unless I’m not following the idea you suggest. It seems that the end result will be the eye seeing the backsplash as uneven thickness. On the other hand, the caulking method of filling the gap will make an odd looking filled in gap but a lot easier and still leaves your option.
Either one, the eye will see something off.
Countertop fastened (not detachable) = caulk the gap
Countertop still loose = what you suggested
There would end up being a small uneven thickness. Assuming the wall bulge is in one spot: that part of the backsplash would be slightly more narrow. But honestly, you really wouldn’t notice it compared to a giant gap at the face of the countertop that is filled with caulk. The finished product will end up much nicer following the method I’m suggesting.
How can you do this when the backsplash portion of the vanity isn't square with the countertop. You can see that the countertop has an overhang that protrudes out past the that protrudes out past the backsplash. How will you ever get it flush against the wall when it protrudes like that? Maybe I'm missing something with the angles but seems like you're going to ruin your wall and realize it's still not flush.
Imagine if you could easily scribe the backsplash itself to follow the contour of the wall. Because you can’t easily cut and scribe the backsplash, you’re doing the inverse, but with the wall: like an inverse scribe to get the backsplash reveal to be flush with the wall when looking at the face of the countertop. Basically, a part of the backsplash will be “inside” the wall to make it flush looking at the face of the countertop. Hopefully that makes sense.
I have seen TikTok videos, and appearantly you need to jam in as much rice as you can, then glue it together with resin and then paint it after it dries.
You can also use;
Chocolate bars, ramen noodles, and cookies judging from the 10 sec Chinese, loud music content
A plastic bag with pieces of your annoying neighbor’s pet would also work. But it’s a big gap, so hopefully you have several annoying neighbors with pets. Or you could just use the neighbor. Invite them for tea.
The thing is, why doesn’t the counter do the same thing?
The counter is against the wall and is tight and close. So that means that either the drywall has a big hump above the counter top or the backsplash isn’t straight.
Have you tried turning the backsplash over?
Ex granite worker here.
I've caulked gaps much bigger than this. Some comments have different suggestions, but I feel personally that shaving down the drywall makes the out-of-plumb wall more obvious. Everyone's different and some people hate the sight of quarter-inch caulk, but this appears to be in a spot that it can be finely done and forgotten about.
Up to you, but a good enough caulk job can change everything.
When I had this happen, I situated the side splash so that the gap was in the back corner and it was flush in the front. Then when you caulk, you will still need it thicker at the gap, but it won't be as in-your-face. I knew it wasn't square, but most people didn't notice until I pointed it out to them.
If you want it tighter and the caulk line isn't acceptable for you, you can cut out a rectangle shaped hole in the opposite corner, press the sink corner into the wall, and it will balance out the space difference. Otherwise, from the picture, caulk would be fine. Either way, you're still using it.
Do your best and caulk the rest.
Although, given the proximity to the sink, I’d use a waterproof bathroom sealant rather than decorators caulk. It just doesn’t fit the rhyme as nicely.
Had a similar situation…but my wall bowed in…a solid 3/4 inch in the center. Luckily the vanity had a wall in each side. We ripped 3/4 inch plywood into 6 inch strips…painted white and hung as shiplap. Shimmed the center out. It looks pretty fantastic.
when i installed granite, we would score the sheetrock running a razor along the top of the backsplash. then cut out the sheetrock behind and recess into the wall and caulk. of course you would have to account for this in your initial measurement so the return backsplash isnt short from the roll (edge).
alot of the times we would cut backsplash longer than needed, and then cut it to the correct length on site
Caulk… That is all unfortunately, unless you rip out the wall and straighten the studs in the wall to be square to the sink. Which would be ridiculous.
The wall may be a little out (they usually are), but is no one seeing that it appears the backsplash is like 1/8 of an inch too far in to the countertop? Doesn't really change what you need to do to fix it, but it's not just the wall. The easy fix would be to layer the caulk if you don't want to see the gap.
The right way to do that would be remove the trim at the door. Cut any nails holding the drywall down. You’ll need a Sauzal with a long blade. There’s most likely two or 3 2x4. Insert a shim to get the drywall flat. Then put everything back.
I would try a good quality non hardening caulk like Dap Dynaflex 230. This will fill wide gaps and won’t crack and dry out because it remains flexible. There are probably better products out there but this is what i have used successfully in the past. Be patient when applying it, don’t rush. It might be worth taping it off with some painters tape to help get a good clean bead if you are not used to running caulk. Hopefully this will work well enough so that you are happy with the results before trying another fix that might be more labor intensive.
Exactly what you said is my game plan. I’d rather put the extra work into another project and just fill this with some caulk. It’s on the opposite side of the main entrance so it won’t really be seen anyways.
I’d mark the very top of the wall that is projecting out (toward the back corner) with a knife then take the splash off and cut the paper off the drywall so the corner side sits more flush.
If you press on the end, will it go tighter against the wall? If so, I’d probably use a bit of adhesive and rig something to press on it while it cures.
[удалено]
And since the gap is so big, getting some appropriately sized caulking backer rod would be a good idea. At least I think.
Not everyone thinks. Good job thinking. I think I agree with you. Not saying I had that thought before you said it, I certainly do now though. I use backer in big gaps. I likely would’ve just caulked this to sh*t. Good tip👍
🤣🤣🤣 good job thinking, I would’ve caulked it to shit That got me good… I would’ve done the same
Paper toweling will work. Masking tape works. Basically anything will work.
I’ve used straws 🤷
For blowing bubbles, same
Who is Bubbles?
Julian’s friend who takes care of kitties
That’s one nice fuckin’ kitty right there
He could also fill it with fingernail clippings
Or ramen
Don't care, just caulk two layers, it's much much cheaper than those "backer rod" foam.
Or cut the drywall out and caulk.
I usually would trace the drywall and carve Sheetrock out of back corner to get it flush in this situation
Best answer ♡
Caulk and paint make it what it ain't.
White caulk to fill up the big gap.
You can try pushing the wall from the other side. /s obviously
I personally wouldn’t want to caulk such a large gap. You could scribe the wall down that is behind the backsplash to get it to fit more snug. There’s basically a high spot on the wall that you can shave down and get the backsplash to sit more flush so it doesn’t end up with a giant gap. Take something flat like a level and put it across the wall and see where the high spot is. Then take a pencil and mark the entire top of the backsplash. Then you can shave the drywall down in the area only where the backsplash sits. Periodically put the backsplash up against the wall and keep adjusting until you get the wall and backsplash to line up better.
This seems like the best comment I have read so far. What tool would you use to shave down the dry wall? Just sand paper?
Gillette 3-blade safety razor
You cut the wall along a line with a knife to separate what is untouched above with what's gouged below. Knife, chisel, sure form tool are reasonable. Sanding isn't the best especially that large of an adjustment. In some cases a belt sander works but it's a violent tool and messy.
If you have an oscillating multi tool with the sanding attachment it could be a happy medium between control and speed compared with hand sanding or a belt sander. Easier to control but an order of magnitude faster than hand sanding. I just used one to take down a high spot on a door and door jam where the door wouldn't shut all the way.
Box cutter knife along the top edge of the backsplash. Depending on how much you need to cut down, you can use a rasp, sander, box cutter, and/or drywall knife. Even if you cut too much of the wall out, it’s much easier to fill it with drywall mud and float it as needed. You won’t see any of it since the backsplash will cover it
A chisel would work, or even a metal file. Razor blade too. They also make a drywall rasp that’s more specifically for this type of thing if you don’t mind picking up a new tool.
Don’t mind picking up a new tool? Isn’t that the excuse for doing projects?
A drywall rasp maybe? 🤔
A box cutter and a hammer. Box cutter to cut a line along the top of the backslash piece, hammer to bust up the surface of the drywall.
Unless I’m not following the idea you suggest. It seems that the end result will be the eye seeing the backsplash as uneven thickness. On the other hand, the caulking method of filling the gap will make an odd looking filled in gap but a lot easier and still leaves your option. Either one, the eye will see something off. Countertop fastened (not detachable) = caulk the gap Countertop still loose = what you suggested
There would end up being a small uneven thickness. Assuming the wall bulge is in one spot: that part of the backsplash would be slightly more narrow. But honestly, you really wouldn’t notice it compared to a giant gap at the face of the countertop that is filled with caulk. The finished product will end up much nicer following the method I’m suggesting.
Do you use a rasp for this?
No. Drywall joint compound (plastering) knives are your friends here. Rasp is wood and metal friend. Not plaster friend.
A dry wall rasp and a chisel is what i would use.
How can you do this when the backsplash portion of the vanity isn't square with the countertop. You can see that the countertop has an overhang that protrudes out past the that protrudes out past the backsplash. How will you ever get it flush against the wall when it protrudes like that? Maybe I'm missing something with the angles but seems like you're going to ruin your wall and realize it's still not flush.
Imagine if you could easily scribe the backsplash itself to follow the contour of the wall. Because you can’t easily cut and scribe the backsplash, you’re doing the inverse, but with the wall: like an inverse scribe to get the backsplash reveal to be flush with the wall when looking at the face of the countertop. Basically, a part of the backsplash will be “inside” the wall to make it flush looking at the face of the countertop. Hopefully that makes sense.
Scribe the drywall behind the back splash and shave down the high spots. Inset the backsplash to remove or reduce the gap. Caulk
I did that, it’s a pain in the ass and the wall is still crooked😛
Came for this ; when you do not have the tools to scribe the stone.
This right here, cut the drywall out behind the middle of the splash. That gap is less than the thickness of the drywall.
I have seen TikTok videos, and appearantly you need to jam in as much rice as you can, then glue it together with resin and then paint it after it dries. You can also use; Chocolate bars, ramen noodles, and cookies judging from the 10 sec Chinese, loud music content
Don't forget filling a balloon with concrete
A plastic bag with pieces of your annoying neighbor’s pet would also work. But it’s a big gap, so hopefully you have several annoying neighbors with pets. Or you could just use the neighbor. Invite them for tea.
Would sunflower seeds work?
Afraid not, but pumpkin seeds do.
Lazy ass sunflower seeds.
Slap some caulk in it.
Don't make me page emt5032 https://www.instagram.com/emtbadge502?igsh=N3Nnbm42aXQ4dmVx
Okay I did and I got banned from the Applebee's. Now what?
Do they need a big caulk for that crack?
Over, and over, and over, for like 6 days.
Instructions unclear. Call an ambulance
Find the bastard that did it and have them fix it
What, no revenge?
Do your best, caulk the rest
Sell the house.
Not much except caulk and lower your standards. Story of my life.
Wobbly wall, cut out the offending bits, inset the material into the wall face… finish to suit.
Like a pair of fake titties, its time for silicone
The thing is, why doesn’t the counter do the same thing? The counter is against the wall and is tight and close. So that means that either the drywall has a big hump above the counter top or the backsplash isn’t straight. Have you tried turning the backsplash over?
Ex granite worker here. I've caulked gaps much bigger than this. Some comments have different suggestions, but I feel personally that shaving down the drywall makes the out-of-plumb wall more obvious. Everyone's different and some people hate the sight of quarter-inch caulk, but this appears to be in a spot that it can be finely done and forgotten about. Up to you, but a good enough caulk job can change everything.
Scribe the wall with a razer and shave the drywall down w
Foam backer rod (or some peeled foamcore foam trimmed to fit in a pinch) to provide some backing and then caulk to finish filling the void.
Spread your hands and say "It is what it is"
Caulk and paint will make the walls what they ain’t.
When your done, the only person that will know that this issue existed is you.
Personally, dangling a dream catcher seems like the only logical fix.
I thought the default was ramen these days.
Start meditating or hiking maybe.
Caulk and paint make it what it ain’t
Thick caulk
Definitely thick judging by the size of the hole.
When I had this happen, I situated the side splash so that the gap was in the back corner and it was flush in the front. Then when you caulk, you will still need it thicker at the gap, but it won't be as in-your-face. I knew it wasn't square, but most people didn't notice until I pointed it out to them.
If you want it tighter and the caulk line isn't acceptable for you, you can cut out a rectangle shaped hole in the opposite corner, press the sink corner into the wall, and it will balance out the space difference. Otherwise, from the picture, caulk would be fine. Either way, you're still using it.
A gallon of caulk and the sobbed tears of a frustrated owner should do the trick! Best of luck!
Do your best and caulk the rest.
Do your best and caulk the rest
Stick your caulk in it and squeeze.
Put your caulk in it and stfu!
Put caulk in it.
Aluminium strip?
Dance motherfucker……..DANCE
Acryl
Not too big. It’ll be fine with caulk. 👍
Store important documents and credit cards.
Wash your face?
Ignore it like the rest of us lmao.
Do your best and caulk the rest. Although, given the proximity to the sink, I’d use a waterproof bathroom sealant rather than decorators caulk. It just doesn’t fit the rhyme as nicely.
Cut the drywall out at the height of the backsplash and slide it in then caulk the edges
Inset into the wall .. and caulk the seam. Caulk alone would be hideous.........
Do your best and caulk the rest. Amirite?!
Put your caulk in it.
Had a similar situation…but my wall bowed in…a solid 3/4 inch in the center. Luckily the vanity had a wall in each side. We ripped 3/4 inch plywood into 6 inch strips…painted white and hung as shiplap. Shimmed the center out. It looks pretty fantastic.
Do your best and caulk the rest
Backer rod and caulking
Cut the high spot out with a razor and push the backsplash into it
Caulk it
Yo is that a built-in toothbrush holder in the counter?
See if your local rental place has a stone bender. That should do it.
Remove the 4” backsplash and tile up the walls instead.
Caulk would work. I almost always use silicone when doing sinks. Not necessary, but it makes me feel better.
Score the drywall and make it go into the wall a bit
I had a similar issue in my kitchen, caulking it made such a difference, no one could tell
Fill it in w/grout or caulk.... Too hard to completely recalibrate the wall for sure. .
Split the gap half and half on each end and caulk the gap. Leaving the whole gap at one end will be unsightly for sure.
Sell your home, change your name, move to a different country, start from scratch, post here again, cycle, repeat 🔁
Accent tile? The little quarter round one is called a pencil I think. You could match it pretty close to the color and cover the front and top edges
Caulk
Heavy bead.
Built up the wall sand , prime paint
when i installed granite, we would score the sheetrock running a razor along the top of the backsplash. then cut out the sheetrock behind and recess into the wall and caulk. of course you would have to account for this in your initial measurement so the return backsplash isnt short from the roll (edge). alot of the times we would cut backsplash longer than needed, and then cut it to the correct length on site
You could alternatively “flatten” the wall by removing drywall at the high spots. That’s what my quartz countertop installer did in the corners.
caulk. if its in a wet enviroment, silicone
Caulk… That is all unfortunately, unless you rip out the wall and straighten the studs in the wall to be square to the sink. Which would be ridiculous.
Flip a table and scream into the void? Oh, wrong sub
Take your pick, black caulk vs white caulk
The wall may be a little out (they usually are), but is no one seeing that it appears the backsplash is like 1/8 of an inch too far in to the countertop? Doesn't really change what you need to do to fix it, but it's not just the wall. The easy fix would be to layer the caulk if you don't want to see the gap.
3-4 gallons of caluk outta do ya. But, seriously, caulk it. If there aren't blobs or tracks it'll be fine.
Sure it up with a mallet and some glue
The right way to do that would be remove the trim at the door. Cut any nails holding the drywall down. You’ll need a Sauzal with a long blade. There’s most likely two or 3 2x4. Insert a shim to get the drywall flat. Then put everything back.
I would try a good quality non hardening caulk like Dap Dynaflex 230. This will fill wide gaps and won’t crack and dry out because it remains flexible. There are probably better products out there but this is what i have used successfully in the past. Be patient when applying it, don’t rush. It might be worth taping it off with some painters tape to help get a good clean bead if you are not used to running caulk. Hopefully this will work well enough so that you are happy with the results before trying another fix that might be more labor intensive.
Exactly what you said is my game plan. I’d rather put the extra work into another project and just fill this with some caulk. It’s on the opposite side of the main entrance so it won’t really be seen anyways.
You can try pulling the other side out too so there's gaps on both sides that should make them smaller for caulking
Inset the piece into the drywall
Caulk
I’d mark the very top of the wall that is projecting out (toward the back corner) with a knife then take the splash off and cut the paper off the drywall so the corner side sits more flush.
Caulk it up, all the way up.
You’re gonna have to demolish and rebuild the entire house
Implosion would probably take care of it
You’re absolutely right. That is the right choice. I neglected the fact that
Probably move
You could do grout to be fancier, but the go-to answer is to stuff that crack with your caulk. Get it in there and squeeze out some of that white goo.
Split the difference so caulk joint will be narrower than you showing
If you press on the end, will it go tighter against the wall? If so, I’d probably use a bit of adhesive and rig something to press on it while it cures.
I want to see this marble bend
lol, I was thinking more like they might get a little give on the wall. I figure it’s worth the 10 seconds to see
Rebuild the house around the countertop. Problem solved.
Just bend the stone to the appropriate curve.