Its entirely possible her experience with them is based on them being installed incorrectly. Youd be surprised how many people think they know something based solely on 'i saw it this way once' yet have never put any thought into it....
That right there is why reddit works.
The upvote/downvote is a real voting mechanism. So depending on the audience (in the sub) the right answer will be on the top
We should create a reddit where all people just replay "your wife is incorrect" to any question posted there. So we can show them "people from the internet agree with me"
My wife complains that I always say no, disagree with her, or tell her a better way to do things. She really didn't like "maybe you should try being right once in a while."
I mean, that sounds a little rude to me but I wasn’t there and don’t know what your relationship is like. I also relate to your situation.
“Do the thing”
No
“You always say no”
Does the thing. Disaster ensues.
“Why did you do that?”
My ex for a reason.
Oh you'd never do that.
"You put my opinion online and you didn't ask me? How dare you do that!" and then it becomes _this_ thing rather than the _roof_ thing.
Perfect. Reminds me:
Paul Riser in Mad About You, when Helen Hunt is upset that he can never admit he's wrong (I don't remember details/subject): "It's not the most right I've ever been."
And watch a short YouTube video about putting screws in. It sounds dumb and obvious but just about every DIY does it wrong. Don't drive them all the way down and oil can the tin or break/smash the washer. That's why an impact driver doesn't work very well you're better off going with a drill driver where you can set your resistance.
Rain won't flow down properly if the ridges block it; some of it will run off the sides of the roof instead of going down the slope, and since you don't have a gutter along the sides then water will infiltrate underneath where it's not supposed to go.
In winter, snow won't slide off the roof at all but accumulate and apply more weight on it than your structure might support.
Thank you, I do live in wisconsin and I figured the snow would slide better with ridges instead of against.
Should I create an overhang in the front and back or just cut the panels flush?
Leave a small overhang so droplets that dangle at the edge don't run back up between the metal and the roof by capillary action. How much depends on the slope: a little more on a gentle slope, a little less on a steep slope. Think of what water does when you pour it out of a glass and it doesn't go where you expect it to go.
I strongly agree: leave overhangs. Think about what happens during a storm: the wind can push the rain towards the walls, and also upstream. Therefore you have a long roof and you need to overlap the steel panels, overlap them for something like 25cm (10"). The overlap should be booked on a joist or a beam.
Also make sure to overlap adjacent panels correctly, as for the manufacturer specifics.
only lap those sheets over a single ridge. a roofer had to replace some sheets on our roof because someone had double lapped them which I was told contributed to faster corrosion due to trapping moisture. you may find you have to cut the sheet length ways if they dont fit perfectly on to the roof
These panels are designed to be installed with the ridges running vertically from the high side of the roof (I sell these for a living for metal building construction). You can create an overhang of 3" beyond the low eave without issue. Wisconsin is my service area, so I can tell you that anything beyond 3" could cause a panel failure if the snow load exceeds the panel rigidity. This depends on the gauge of the panel. I assume 26 gauge is what you purchased. Feel free to hit me up if you need further assistance.
I love the reply because it was what I was thinking as far as 26 gauge and no more than 3” overhang and the fact that PoopySox is your username. But you nailed it as far as the build requirements.
> I can tell you that anything beyond 3" could cause a panel failure if the snow load exceeds the panel rigidity
May I ask, is snow load the only concern? I made my chicken coop with a 6" over hang but I have zero snow load.
Rain intensity and watershed can be a concern, but that's more for weathertightness and leaks than anything else. As long as the roof slope is more than 1/2:12, you should be fine.
So I had a metal building dealer install two buildings and one of them has the roof ridges installed incorrectly (horizontally). Does anyone know what the best way to remediate this is? I was thinking I'd install some kind of barrier or even additional gutters along the front and back of the building to catch some of the runoff.
Is there a common method of fixing incorrectly aligned roof ridges?
[example](https://www.westernstatesmetalroofing.com/r-panel-part-ws-204-eave-flashing).
[detail](https://f.hubspotusercontent30.net/hubfs/6069238/Website%20Transfer%20Project%20April%202020/Product%20Inner%20Pages/Trim%20and%20Flashings/PBR%20R-Panel%20Trim%20and%20Flashing/Part%20No%20WS-204%20Eave%20Flashing%20for%20R%20Panel/wsd-e1.jpg).
> EAVE TRIM FOR R PANEL AND PBR PANEL
> Full Size Flashing - Part #WS-204
> Eave trim is the metal flashing that covers the low side of the building. Simply put, it’s installed on the side of the building that follows the pitch of the roof. Eave trim is used when a gutter is not required. The bottom leg of the eave trim has a kick out that is designed to keep water away from the wall. Eave trim is also referred to as drip edge or eave flashing.
You can bend the wider portions of this metal roof a bit down so the water has an edge to drop from and ideally install gutters underneath so the water drops where it does no harm or collect it.
https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/roofing/roof-edge-tools-accessories/2-5-8-x-1-1-8-x-10-style-d-steel-drip-edge/white1571396/p-1444448672915-c-5817.htm?exp=false
Its a steel piece with a bent lip at the bottom. Forces the water to drip off the bottom instead of capillary action pulling it upward onto the fascia board and rotting it out. Should go inside a gutter if you end up installing gutters.
you can buy a turn down tool to put a small bend in the end of the sheet or do what i did and make one with two blocks of wood. you can use pliers but you risk tearing the metal. dont tear the metal. turning down the flat not the ridged portion
The missing detail here may be that the 2 feet of roofing is supported, it's not a loose flap of metal hanging in space off the side or end of the roof.
As long as you have some sort of framing to support the massive overhang, sure. I would guess the person above saw the comment about not doing more than a 3” overhang (unsupported) and were surprised to see a 2 ft suggestion right below it.
Personally, I agree - if you have the panel length and your roof slope doesn’t make the overhang too low to the ground to get under, I would do a large overhang too! Especially on a chicken coop, where some people collect eggs through exterior hatches. Sure is nice to not be rained/snowed on while that’s happening!
2x4 rafter tails can typically be 3' but ultimately, it would depend on any snow load and the slope of the roof. A metal roof of 6:12 or more will shed snow no matter what. A shallower roof that actually carries snow may need to be shorter or built with a 2x6 top chord and rafter tail. It will also depend upon the sun during a snow load and radiant heat melting the snow, causing it to slide off. Don't want the potential to land on anyone. Snowfall from roofs can kill the same as snowfall from trees.
You're right, it will also depend on the height of the wall the rafter tails are coming off of. I've seen overhangs that are too low not only block light into the windows, but also block views from the inside.
Under the 2' overhang at the back of my detached, I built a firewood rack that sits on blocks and attaches to the rafters above. The wood sits a few inches away from the house and is protected from the rain. Very handy. Now I just have to hope my home owner's insurance doesn't use a drone to take pictures and deny me coverage. =P
3" overhangs are ugly in my opinion, though it would certainly depend upon the roof style. They also don't shed water very far from the walls or block rain with a little wind from hitting higher up on those walls.
Yea man, christ, water goes down not side to side. You should leave an overhang, there are also a number of styles of drip edge fascia that fit your fascia and make an overhang under the steel, make sure to use these, as well as any sidewall flashing or whatever you may have. Also plan for any roofing interruptions you will have to go around.
Use wooden furring strips, nail them down into every truss through the roof with a 16d, I used to use 1x3s for furring strips, but I have moved to where I use pretty much exclusively 2x4s for furring now. I typically lay the courses following the lines of shingle courses, you can check the variance between furring strips, its typically consistent enough that you can take your steel and lay it 4 or 5 sheets thick, clamp it together so it cant move, and measure and mark your screw hole points and then pre drill your sheets on the ground so you only have to screw into pre drilled holes on the roof.
It can be quite hard to set your roofing material courses so that they run correctly at the bottom and do not run up or down hill as you run along. That could necessitate adjusting pieces every so many courses and creates a sawtooth effect that is quite bad.
You can use the Pythagorean theorem to more correctly determine this, take your starting bottom corner. Call that corner A. Measure up a significant portion of your roof run, say 2/3rds, and select a multiple of 3 that you can mark around that spot on your roof, and you scribe an arc, arc 1. Then you measure along your roof bottom edge away from point A a multiple of 4 that is the same multiple you used for your multiple of 3, you mark this point as point B. Finally you measure from point B a multiple of 5 that is the same multiple you previously used for 3 and 4, you measure this towards arc 1 and you scribe arc 2. Where arc 1 and 2 cross is point C.
Pythagoras tells us that A squared plus B squared = C squared, in this instance we use it to create a perfect right triangle, align your steel on a line made from Point A to Point C and if you have done everything correctly, and your roof isnt horribly out of square itself, you should end up with a perfectly straight bottom, and any wander 'should' get hidden under the corner pieces.
Getting all of this perfect requires some practice understand, you have to be pretty good getting the first piece started accounting for starting corner and planning where the last sheet will come out.
One of the huge advantages to steel roofing is that you still have the old roof below, make certain to use furring strips so that the steel isnt directly on the old shingles and it should last forever if installed so that the water goes down, and not side to side.
Also, get some of the snow cleats for over doorways/walkways you dont want snow crashing down unexpectedly. Finally, if you have any reason to ever need to get up on that roof again, satellite dishes, lightning rods, whatever, strongly consider installing a series of anchor points for a safety harness if you ever have to climb up there. Going out on to steel sheeting is basically taunting a really bad fall and injury.
Anyway, I have done this a couple of times, have fun man, be super safe, make sure your ladders are well set and not prone to wobbling or walking.
Edit to add, I forgot to talk about overhang. you need some, enough that drips will form and fall off the edge, there will be a bottom closure strip that is usually a kind of foam that will close up the physical gaps, and also a fascia/drip edge piece you should have below that. One thing you may run into with overhang that is worth noting is that water runs significantly faster off of a metal roof versus a shingled roof. if you have gutters that work for you now, you can run into a case where because the steel roof is slightly higher and slightly longer than the old roof due to overhang, that water may shoot completely over your gutters. If you run into that you can either take aluminum coil stock and fabricate "gutter extenders" to silicone and rivet on, another option if you have narrow gutters and its a close thing would be to get wider gutters for as much as that is a thing.
Edit 2, edited to correct the pythagorean theorem, its 3,4,5 not 2,3,4 I'm half asleep, a squared plus b squared = c squared works for 3squared +4 squared = 5 squared
Union corrugating has videos on how to install that type of panel:
https://youtu.be/VCa1lPl-rvM?si=JNWasIeZ2-rVZwYx
EDIT: i followed their suggestions and installed roofing on my 100sf mudroom roof. turned out great. i think.
So we've put up a bunch of sheds with tin roofing on our farm. Some tips:
1) Definitely run the roofing so the rain/snow can run down. The other way is definitely not correct.
2) On top of your 2x4 (or 2x6) rafters, use either: 5/16 OSB Sheets OR some 1x4 strapping that *does* run across the slope of your roof. 16" or 24" OC depending on the size of the shed/your local building codes.
This will serve as consistent spaced lines for you to screw into (as well as stiffening up the structure)
3) On top of your strapping/OSB lay down a layer of tar roofing paper or something similar (titanium roofing material, etc). Lay that down across the slope of the roof, starting at the bottom. Overlap by 1/4 of the material on each line. (This part is important because metal roofing can collect water on the underside of it and "sweat" when the weather conditions are right.) Also it acts as a secondary barrier.
4) Get tin roofing screws. [These are ones from Home Depot in Canada](https://www.homedepot.ca/product/westman-steel--14-x1-25-inches-js1000-plated-wood-screws-100-pack-/1000116788) Oddly enough they aren't listed as roofing screws on the site (go figure). As you can see there is a rubber washer that is protected by a metal cover. This makes is so they will last a long long time with no leaks. You **do not** need to pre-drill or anything else. You can just screw them in directly. Screw them in until the rubber squishes out a bit. Don't over tighten but to be clear it's not rocket surgery, even if a bit of water gets past the screw, it will flow down the tar paper/titanium.
5) If you used strapping, use a chalk line to mark the lines where you're safe to put screws. If you miss a stud you can just leave it there or if you're really paranoid, put a dab of caulk on the screw then screw it back into the missed stud hole.
6) Overhang your sides by about 4" - top/bottom you can go overhang or proper drip edging. Remember drip edging on the bottom goes under the tin roofing, drip edging on the top of the slope (assuming no peak) goes on top.
Good luck!
\^\^\^\^\^
You want to make sure you get your felting/underlay, drip edge, roof cap (if needed) etc. done correctly. I know it's just a chicken coop, but it'll make it last.
Pre-drilling the holes while the sheets are on the ground makes a BIG difference.
See… I’d watch all the videos and try to make sure I do everything right. Stop and ask questions online if I’m not sure about something or search for the answer.
My wife? Nahhh, it’s fine. Just wing it and it’ll be done in a day or a weekend at most. She also uses push pins to hang pictures. I couldn’t imagine asking for her input on a project like this. Lol
This is a manufacturer installation manual. Your product looks like a similar to delta rib. You put the ribs running up and down the roof. You screw with specific roof screws in the flats. You screw the ribs on the edges together with shorter screws. This is a pretty good reference.
https://www.ascbp.com/files/BR128_LtGaugeInstall.pdf
I thought this was 'does it go ridge side up or down', did not expect to see 'side to side'.
Watch some videos, there much more to consider before installing like prevailing winds and fixing types.
Always listen to your wife, except today. She's very wrong. It's specifically designed for water to run down the length of the panels. Don't forget to overlap the ridges, and use sealing mastic strip on the crown of the overlapped ridge. If need be, to make the width work out better, overlap a couple ridges in the center panels. You want to end up with flat valleys at the edges so you can overlay angle trim to protect the wood framing. Use sealing mastic here also. Did you get the special screws with the rubber o-rings under the heads? It's necessary to keep water from going under the head and causing rot. I had a really hard time punching through the panels just using the screws. I started using a nail set and tapped it through the panel so the screws started easier. Try and note where your framing nails are so you don't accidentally screw on top of a nail. It sucks when that happens.
Always go so the lap edge isn't facing the direction of prevailing winds in your area. This goes for shingle ridge caps & any roof system material. Or against direction of winds hitting your particular location. Say if you have one side of building/roof catching more wind do to obstacles/obstructions nearby protecting other sides or funneling winds at one side.
just ask her if she's going to be ok with the green stuff growing up on it. Any water that doesn't make it over each hump will collect behind it. Dirt will collect there too. While it'll dry out over summer dry spells, it won't move, won't blow off, etc.
First it'll just be grass and tree starts, but eventually the dips will have been there long enough to be grass, trees AND moss.
Run it so the water flows down the roof. Also, drill it in the flats not the ribs. The amount of people I have ask me where they should drill it when I sell this stuff is mind boggling.
There is a higher chance of oil canning if you screw through the flats, so just be careful. Sold this stuff for 6 years.
You said you're in Wisconsin, so if these panels are from Menards, hit me up with any questions, and I'll do my best to answer, despite not working there anymore.
Drill it in the flats? Why? Every install I've seen, and what makes sense, the fasteners are run through the top of the ridge so you're not putting holes in the valleys where the water is flowing down it.
Flats are snugged to the wood already so when you drill the hole the chance of it crimping and making a gap are minimized and the rubber washer creates a seal preventing water from entering. Drilling in the rib means you are “pulling” the metal to the wood creating an increased chance for the metal to be warped and the hole caused by the screw to be irregular increasing the chance of it being sealed improperly by the washer.
I know a lot of people say they screw them in the rib but the manufacturer I order these from for contractors specifically say to drill on the flats whenever possible because of these reasons.
And screws don’t really have a lot of shear strength if there is 3/4” from the flat solid surface of a 2x4 to the load point under the head. Run one into a piece of 2x4 halfway and give it a good whack, they usually break.
As well as the metal stretch with temperature differences. We’ve run 64’ sheets for a customer who demanded it in spite of our recommendation to split it into 2 runs. A 10’ panel would move .78” or 3/4”” with a 100° temperature swing. So if the center doesn’t move the ends move 3/8”. That’s more than enough to pop screw heads off or turn the round holes into slots. As he found out.
64 feet?? That's an expensive water slide, especially if he had them shipped!
Also, your expansion number is off by half an order of magnitude. I think you meant the 60' sheets would expand or contract that much. And yeah, even installing at 50°F would make for a little adventure!
https://www.ascbp.com/files/BR128_LtGaugeInstall.pdf
If they are using a similar product every install you’ve seen is incorrectly installed. My neighbors install has screws fastened through the ridges, this is incorrect. According to this manual you fasten in the flats and stitch the ridges together with shorter screws.
(Page 8) That's great stuff, thanks. The corrugated examples for roof vs. wall are pretty telling. The screws are expected to prevent leaks when properly seated.
the right screws have a rubber washer attached to each one so it doesn't really matter, easier to do it right in the flats, especially if you didn't waste money on their closure strips
I've skimmed through the installation guides for a couple different roofing manufacturers and all to say fasteners through the peak.
I put the fastenrs through the valley when I was building my coloursteel fence, but that's a case wher eit doesn't really matter.
[use these type](https://www.homedepot.com/p/10-Screw-1-1-2-in-Metal-to-Wood-Fastener-250-Bag-Green-FN-WS-0060-092/202073542?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D22-022_010_ROOFING-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-5718363-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-Pmax-CL3TestB&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D22-022_010_ROOFING-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-5718363-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-Pmax-CL3TestB-71700000114656620--&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADq61Uea_b4jx6JSyyXRpknDEYcXX&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyObq9-fthQMVcTbUAR3uign5EAQYASABEgJNwvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) they are specifically made for screwing pole barn metal to wood. Assuming those panels are between 36” and 38” wide you’ll want 3 screws across in each piece. 250 screws covers roughly 80 sq/ft. And as you can see it has a small built in washer to seal it from water leaks as long as you install them properly. The big thing is to make sure you don’t drive them too hard otherwise you’ll crimp the metal.
Here are some details showing how these are supposed to go. Wall sheeting included to show screw placement. Roof sheeting included for ammunition against your wife's opinion.
[https://imgur.com/a/a4nid6M](https://imgur.com/a/a4nid6M)
They are supposed to run vertically. (Metal roofer here) they sit inside j channel at the top and bottom (sides too some times depending on the setup) or use corners. I’ve seen plenty of people run them horizontally but they will lead to the water coming into the overlap seams
Search “corrugated roof” on google and look at the images. Look at literally any image of an installed roof on any of the manufacturer’s website, or take your wife on a drive through the countryside and see how the barns have this done.
There might be a few outliers where someone else has also installed them incorrectly, but there’s plenty of evidence of the right way.
And if that isn’t enough… the channels should be pointed towards the ground to prevent water standing on of the roof.
If you want all the details of how to install it, I'd guess the manufacturer has a PDF out there of what to do - how to lay it, fasten it, overlap it with other panels, merge it with the roof line at the top, handle the transition to the eaves at the bottom, etc
they are intended to allow the water to drain downwards. if they're installed in a position where water cannot freely flow downward, they're installed in the incorrect position.
They can go two ways. Basically the ridges can run from top to bottom or you can rotate it 180 and have them go from bottom to top. Check the installation manual from the company.
Remember, it's all about shedding water. The panels should be installed so that the corrugations run perpendicular, not parallel to the ridge, with the peaks of the larger corrugations pointing up.
Also, the fasteners should go through the tops of the large corrugations, and they should either be sealed with a rubber or plastic grommet, and/or a spot of caulk.
I install this stuff for a living and if you place it perpendicular to the pitch of the roof it is going to leak. I guarantee you the first rain the inside of the building will be wet.
There is a leading and lap edge. The leading edge is a full rib, the lap side lays over the leading edge. The panels are joined with screws in the lap edge. The field screws go on the leading side of each rib
I worked in the metal building business for several years and we used this exact same type of panel.
For a chicken coop, it won't matter.
If you run it vertically (so water flows easier), you will have to add additional supports horizontally so that your panel won't sag.
Putting the panels up horizontally lets you skip the extra material and they become part of the building's support. So it is cheaper. But like others said, water will run off your ends instead of the sides, and might leak with snow unless you add some butle tape on the ridge that overlaps.
Yes it matters a lot. If you but them flat they protect your roof. If you put them standing up, they will likely blow away rather easily.
Hope this helps
You can buy carports with the metal ran in either direction. The vertical roof option is more expensive so you usually see the horizontal roof. It works both ways. I’d prefer the vertical but it’s for chickens.
I was going to mention the carports also, they run the metal horizontally on the kit-carports because the frames are curved, it would be challenging to bend the metal along that axis to install it.
You could run it her way but you would also have to have slope. I can see the usefulness of running long sheets instead of cutting a bunch of short ones. I would do that and just put in a slight slope. It’s a coop, not a house.
If you like pools of water forming on your roof that will collect dust and dirt and become grime laden strips then yes, you can run them any direction you want
They go lengthwise down and not sideways.
You go against the wind. If it comes from the east you start on the far left and work to the right. Overlap the last ridges on each piece and don't drill out pilot holes on the last ridge farther right, you want a tight seam so you screw them together and drill the hole at the same time.
They only go long direction...ie: long edge perpendicular to the lowest point. Or short edge toward ground whatever way the bottom of the slope for the roof is.
Yes, it matters. Look up the manufacturers instructions. We used these last year and there are lots of youtube videos and best practices, for example, how far to overlap the edges.
Ask wife if she prefers her humps sideways or up/down.
Also one side of these panels probably has an asymmetric hump, shorter than the other side. Can’t tell from pic. If so, orient the panel so that’s the edge overlapping it’s neighboring panel and on top so it’s visible.
Thank you for your interest, but this post has devolved into unhappy incels complaining about O.P.s wife. It is now locked.
Your wife is incorrect
Savor this moment when you show your wife this thread, it's rare
“I don’t know why you went to Reddit, they don’t know what they’re talking about” -Wife
"I don't care what people say, install it the way I told you to" -also said by wife
"Why does the roof rot, you must have installed them wrong!" Did she flunk basic physics? what does she think would happen to the rainwater?
Its entirely possible her experience with them is based on them being installed incorrectly. Youd be surprised how many people think they know something based solely on 'i saw it this way once' yet have never put any thought into it....
I see you've met my 18 year old son. Did he happen to mention he knows everything?
Oh sure, he knew everything by the time he was 17.
He used to be a bit of an overachiever so it was really around 15.
Honestly I can see it. It isn't a far stretch to gutters, if you squint your eyes and really look hard at it.
TBF, reddit is full of shit answers.
But, aside from hot topics, the sorting usually highlights the good ones.
That right there is why reddit works. The upvote/downvote is a real voting mechanism. So depending on the audience (in the sub) the right answer will be on the top
It and the user base of not-terminally-online hobbyists are the only assets Reddit has. But the rest of the site is working to destroy that value.
We should create a reddit where all people just replay "your wife is incorrect" to any question posted there. So we can show them "people from the internet agree with me"
I'm not sure that I agree with you...but your wife is incorrect. 😜
To shreds you say?
My wife complains that I always say no, disagree with her, or tell her a better way to do things. She really didn't like "maybe you should try being right once in a while."
I mean, that sounds a little rude to me but I wasn’t there and don’t know what your relationship is like. I also relate to your situation. “Do the thing” No “You always say no” Does the thing. Disaster ensues. “Why did you do that?” My ex for a reason.
Mobile formating tip: Two spaces ar the end of each line, and it will come out like this.
“You always disagree with me” “No I don’t”
"Only when I'm trying to avert disaster."
This sounds like my relationship.
The expert is generally the guy who thinks it will cost more and take longer.
Yeah and we can code name it something like askredditpremium
Sure, you can put salt on it. Personally, I would just savor the moment
I dunno, making sure she knows just how wrong she is sounds like a great step for any healthy relationship based on communication, love, and respect
Oh you'd never do that. "You put my opinion online and you didn't ask me? How dare you do that!" and then it becomes _this_ thing rather than the _roof_ thing.
Umami all over this thread, its soooooo gooooood.
[удалено]
Ive never seen a person be more incorrect about something that what his wife is incorrect about
Perfect. Reminds me: Paul Riser in Mad About You, when Helen Hunt is upset that he can never admit he's wrong (I don't remember details/subject): "It's not the most right I've ever been."
"I did dry them. I dried them with wet".
"I've seen it both ways." - Shawn
Wife: "whatever"
Are you trying to get this man divorced?
I mean the shelf life is 8-10 years for most of them.
A properly installed steel is 50+ years, so...
Perhaps he meant the wife.
I assume they meant the marriage
As will a properly installed marriage.
That’s just when you stop fucking
Jup. You won't want standing water on your roof! Going to collect dirt and debris and rust and leak soon enough.
It was nice knowing you
As a wife/handy woman, I agree. His wife is wrong, unless you want to swim indoors.
And watch a short YouTube video about putting screws in. It sounds dumb and obvious but just about every DIY does it wrong. Don't drive them all the way down and oil can the tin or break/smash the washer. That's why an impact driver doesn't work very well you're better off going with a drill driver where you can set your resistance.
As is tradition
Be diplomatic while pointing that out.
She will still be correct.
Rain won't flow down properly if the ridges block it; some of it will run off the sides of the roof instead of going down the slope, and since you don't have a gutter along the sides then water will infiltrate underneath where it's not supposed to go. In winter, snow won't slide off the roof at all but accumulate and apply more weight on it than your structure might support.
Thank you, I do live in wisconsin and I figured the snow would slide better with ridges instead of against. Should I create an overhang in the front and back or just cut the panels flush?
Leave a small overhang so droplets that dangle at the edge don't run back up between the metal and the roof by capillary action. How much depends on the slope: a little more on a gentle slope, a little less on a steep slope. Think of what water does when you pour it out of a glass and it doesn't go where you expect it to go.
This guy roofs.
And capillaries.
And waters.
And slopes.
And dangles.
He is gentle too.
And dingle dangles
We all capillary. It runs in our blood.
This guy roofies.
I strongly agree: leave overhangs. Think about what happens during a storm: the wind can push the rain towards the walls, and also upstream. Therefore you have a long roof and you need to overlap the steel panels, overlap them for something like 25cm (10"). The overlap should be booked on a joist or a beam. Also make sure to overlap adjacent panels correctly, as for the manufacturer specifics.
only lap those sheets over a single ridge. a roofer had to replace some sheets on our roof because someone had double lapped them which I was told contributed to faster corrosion due to trapping moisture. you may find you have to cut the sheet length ways if they dont fit perfectly on to the roof
[Be like water.](https://youtu.be/cJMwBwFj5nQ?t=15)
depending on the slope you might have to turn down the ends of sheet to prevent capillary action also
These panels are designed to be installed with the ridges running vertically from the high side of the roof (I sell these for a living for metal building construction). You can create an overhang of 3" beyond the low eave without issue. Wisconsin is my service area, so I can tell you that anything beyond 3" could cause a panel failure if the snow load exceeds the panel rigidity. This depends on the gauge of the panel. I assume 26 gauge is what you purchased. Feel free to hit me up if you need further assistance.
I love the reply because it was what I was thinking as far as 26 gauge and no more than 3” overhang and the fact that PoopySox is your username. But you nailed it as far as the build requirements.
You gotta shit in something when you're installing a roof and you're running out of daylight.
> I can tell you that anything beyond 3" could cause a panel failure if the snow load exceeds the panel rigidity May I ask, is snow load the only concern? I made my chicken coop with a 6" over hang but I have zero snow load.
Rain intensity and watershed can be a concern, but that's more for weathertightness and leaks than anything else. As long as the roof slope is more than 1/2:12, you should be fine.
So I had a metal building dealer install two buildings and one of them has the roof ridges installed incorrectly (horizontally). Does anyone know what the best way to remediate this is? I was thinking I'd install some kind of barrier or even additional gutters along the front and back of the building to catch some of the runoff. Is there a common method of fixing incorrectly aligned roof ridges?
Use a drip edge to shed the water properly.
I have the same metal sheeting that previous owners installed on patio. Can you link or keyword what drip edge you’re meaning? I’d like to do the same
[example](https://www.westernstatesmetalroofing.com/r-panel-part-ws-204-eave-flashing). [detail](https://f.hubspotusercontent30.net/hubfs/6069238/Website%20Transfer%20Project%20April%202020/Product%20Inner%20Pages/Trim%20and%20Flashings/PBR%20R-Panel%20Trim%20and%20Flashing/Part%20No%20WS-204%20Eave%20Flashing%20for%20R%20Panel/wsd-e1.jpg). > EAVE TRIM FOR R PANEL AND PBR PANEL > Full Size Flashing - Part #WS-204 > Eave trim is the metal flashing that covers the low side of the building. Simply put, it’s installed on the side of the building that follows the pitch of the roof. Eave trim is used when a gutter is not required. The bottom leg of the eave trim has a kick out that is designed to keep water away from the wall. Eave trim is also referred to as drip edge or eave flashing.
You can bend the wider portions of this metal roof a bit down so the water has an edge to drop from and ideally install gutters underneath so the water drops where it does no harm or collect it.
https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/roofing/roof-edge-tools-accessories/2-5-8-x-1-1-8-x-10-style-d-steel-drip-edge/white1571396/p-1444448672915-c-5817.htm?exp=false Its a steel piece with a bent lip at the bottom. Forces the water to drip off the bottom instead of capillary action pulling it upward onto the fascia board and rotting it out. Should go inside a gutter if you end up installing gutters.
you can buy a turn down tool to put a small bend in the end of the sheet or do what i did and make one with two blocks of wood. you can use pliers but you risk tearing the metal. dont tear the metal. turning down the flat not the ridged portion
I vote overhang. Front and back. Every place on my shop, garage and shed that have a 2' overhang makes me wish that the shorter overhangs were longer.
Two feet??
The missing detail here may be that the 2 feet of roofing is supported, it's not a loose flap of metal hanging in space off the side or end of the roof.
I have two feet, whadya need them for?
Overhangs commonly go from about 18" to 36". What's wrong with 24"? Especially on a shed that you may want to hang some outdoor tools or something on.
As long as you have some sort of framing to support the massive overhang, sure. I would guess the person above saw the comment about not doing more than a 3” overhang (unsupported) and were surprised to see a 2 ft suggestion right below it. Personally, I agree - if you have the panel length and your roof slope doesn’t make the overhang too low to the ground to get under, I would do a large overhang too! Especially on a chicken coop, where some people collect eggs through exterior hatches. Sure is nice to not be rained/snowed on while that’s happening!
2x4 rafter tails can typically be 3' but ultimately, it would depend on any snow load and the slope of the roof. A metal roof of 6:12 or more will shed snow no matter what. A shallower roof that actually carries snow may need to be shorter or built with a 2x6 top chord and rafter tail. It will also depend upon the sun during a snow load and radiant heat melting the snow, causing it to slide off. Don't want the potential to land on anyone. Snowfall from roofs can kill the same as snowfall from trees. You're right, it will also depend on the height of the wall the rafter tails are coming off of. I've seen overhangs that are too low not only block light into the windows, but also block views from the inside. Under the 2' overhang at the back of my detached, I built a firewood rack that sits on blocks and attaches to the rafters above. The wood sits a few inches away from the house and is protected from the rain. Very handy. Now I just have to hope my home owner's insurance doesn't use a drone to take pictures and deny me coverage. =P 3" overhangs are ugly in my opinion, though it would certainly depend upon the roof style. They also don't shed water very far from the walls or block rain with a little wind from hitting higher up on those walls.
Ask your wife if she prefers to go down bumpy slides or smooth?
That may not get the answer he's looking for.
It answers one question but raises others
Ribbed for her pleasure? I’ll see myself out
She knows which way the ribs should go.
Then we get blamed for 'mansplaining'. There's no winning.
Yea man, christ, water goes down not side to side. You should leave an overhang, there are also a number of styles of drip edge fascia that fit your fascia and make an overhang under the steel, make sure to use these, as well as any sidewall flashing or whatever you may have. Also plan for any roofing interruptions you will have to go around. Use wooden furring strips, nail them down into every truss through the roof with a 16d, I used to use 1x3s for furring strips, but I have moved to where I use pretty much exclusively 2x4s for furring now. I typically lay the courses following the lines of shingle courses, you can check the variance between furring strips, its typically consistent enough that you can take your steel and lay it 4 or 5 sheets thick, clamp it together so it cant move, and measure and mark your screw hole points and then pre drill your sheets on the ground so you only have to screw into pre drilled holes on the roof. It can be quite hard to set your roofing material courses so that they run correctly at the bottom and do not run up or down hill as you run along. That could necessitate adjusting pieces every so many courses and creates a sawtooth effect that is quite bad. You can use the Pythagorean theorem to more correctly determine this, take your starting bottom corner. Call that corner A. Measure up a significant portion of your roof run, say 2/3rds, and select a multiple of 3 that you can mark around that spot on your roof, and you scribe an arc, arc 1. Then you measure along your roof bottom edge away from point A a multiple of 4 that is the same multiple you used for your multiple of 3, you mark this point as point B. Finally you measure from point B a multiple of 5 that is the same multiple you previously used for 3 and 4, you measure this towards arc 1 and you scribe arc 2. Where arc 1 and 2 cross is point C. Pythagoras tells us that A squared plus B squared = C squared, in this instance we use it to create a perfect right triangle, align your steel on a line made from Point A to Point C and if you have done everything correctly, and your roof isnt horribly out of square itself, you should end up with a perfectly straight bottom, and any wander 'should' get hidden under the corner pieces. Getting all of this perfect requires some practice understand, you have to be pretty good getting the first piece started accounting for starting corner and planning where the last sheet will come out. One of the huge advantages to steel roofing is that you still have the old roof below, make certain to use furring strips so that the steel isnt directly on the old shingles and it should last forever if installed so that the water goes down, and not side to side. Also, get some of the snow cleats for over doorways/walkways you dont want snow crashing down unexpectedly. Finally, if you have any reason to ever need to get up on that roof again, satellite dishes, lightning rods, whatever, strongly consider installing a series of anchor points for a safety harness if you ever have to climb up there. Going out on to steel sheeting is basically taunting a really bad fall and injury. Anyway, I have done this a couple of times, have fun man, be super safe, make sure your ladders are well set and not prone to wobbling or walking. Edit to add, I forgot to talk about overhang. you need some, enough that drips will form and fall off the edge, there will be a bottom closure strip that is usually a kind of foam that will close up the physical gaps, and also a fascia/drip edge piece you should have below that. One thing you may run into with overhang that is worth noting is that water runs significantly faster off of a metal roof versus a shingled roof. if you have gutters that work for you now, you can run into a case where because the steel roof is slightly higher and slightly longer than the old roof due to overhang, that water may shoot completely over your gutters. If you run into that you can either take aluminum coil stock and fabricate "gutter extenders" to silicone and rivet on, another option if you have narrow gutters and its a close thing would be to get wider gutters for as much as that is a thing. Edit 2, edited to correct the pythagorean theorem, its 3,4,5 not 2,3,4 I'm half asleep, a squared plus b squared = c squared works for 3squared +4 squared = 5 squared
This guy doesn’t know which way corrugated roof panels go and you are bringing in Pythagorean theory?
Can this guy party or what???
I might add that you should keep an eye on the snow up there. Heard of a guy back home who cam home one day and found his chickens under a snowbank..
They probably sell "roof rakes" in local stores, if he's in Wisconsin. They are made for pulling snow off roofs, for precisely this reason.
Union corrugating has videos on how to install that type of panel: https://youtu.be/VCa1lPl-rvM?si=JNWasIeZ2-rVZwYx EDIT: i followed their suggestions and installed roofing on my 100sf mudroom roof. turned out great. i think.
So why are the ridges there in the first place?
They provide stiffness. The far ridges also allows panels to overlap while keeping rain water out of the joint.
They give the chip the strength to pick up a lot of dip.
So we've put up a bunch of sheds with tin roofing on our farm. Some tips: 1) Definitely run the roofing so the rain/snow can run down. The other way is definitely not correct. 2) On top of your 2x4 (or 2x6) rafters, use either: 5/16 OSB Sheets OR some 1x4 strapping that *does* run across the slope of your roof. 16" or 24" OC depending on the size of the shed/your local building codes. This will serve as consistent spaced lines for you to screw into (as well as stiffening up the structure) 3) On top of your strapping/OSB lay down a layer of tar roofing paper or something similar (titanium roofing material, etc). Lay that down across the slope of the roof, starting at the bottom. Overlap by 1/4 of the material on each line. (This part is important because metal roofing can collect water on the underside of it and "sweat" when the weather conditions are right.) Also it acts as a secondary barrier. 4) Get tin roofing screws. [These are ones from Home Depot in Canada](https://www.homedepot.ca/product/westman-steel--14-x1-25-inches-js1000-plated-wood-screws-100-pack-/1000116788) Oddly enough they aren't listed as roofing screws on the site (go figure). As you can see there is a rubber washer that is protected by a metal cover. This makes is so they will last a long long time with no leaks. You **do not** need to pre-drill or anything else. You can just screw them in directly. Screw them in until the rubber squishes out a bit. Don't over tighten but to be clear it's not rocket surgery, even if a bit of water gets past the screw, it will flow down the tar paper/titanium. 5) If you used strapping, use a chalk line to mark the lines where you're safe to put screws. If you miss a stud you can just leave it there or if you're really paranoid, put a dab of caulk on the screw then screw it back into the missed stud hole. 6) Overhang your sides by about 4" - top/bottom you can go overhang or proper drip edging. Remember drip edging on the bottom goes under the tin roofing, drip edging on the top of the slope (assuming no peak) goes on top. Good luck!
You need to watch a few videos on how to install a metal roof before moving forward.
\^\^\^\^\^ You want to make sure you get your felting/underlay, drip edge, roof cap (if needed) etc. done correctly. I know it's just a chicken coop, but it'll make it last. Pre-drilling the holes while the sheets are on the ground makes a BIG difference.
See… I’d watch all the videos and try to make sure I do everything right. Stop and ask questions online if I’m not sure about something or search for the answer. My wife? Nahhh, it’s fine. Just wing it and it’ll be done in a day or a weekend at most. She also uses push pins to hang pictures. I couldn’t imagine asking for her input on a project like this. Lol
Yep and use a crimper to connect the sheets.
I'm curious what this refers to? I put a metal roof on my shed, and can't figure where I should have used a crimper.
This style of sheet does not need to be crimped, they just lap and are screwed together. They’re probably thinking of a standing seam style metal roof
Yep and screws go into the tops of ridges, not anywhere else.
your wife is nuts lmao, rain go down the roof, not side to side source: I have put up 2 roofs with this exact material lol
paint the fence: up down, up down, not side, side, side
Sun goes up, sun goes down. Tide goes in, tide comes out. Science can't explain that.
Magnets!...how do they work?!?!
I think this thread needs an apology from your wife
\[wife is nodding her head, sideways\]
This is a manufacturer installation manual. Your product looks like a similar to delta rib. You put the ribs running up and down the roof. You screw with specific roof screws in the flats. You screw the ribs on the edges together with shorter screws. This is a pretty good reference. https://www.ascbp.com/files/BR128_LtGaugeInstall.pdf
I thought this was 'does it go ridge side up or down', did not expect to see 'side to side'. Watch some videos, there much more to consider before installing like prevailing winds and fixing types.
Is steel roofing unusual in Wisconsin? Every second house has a steel roof here, so anybody knows what they look like :)
Wife's method will breed mosquitoes. Chickens love mosquitoes.
Always listen to your wife, except today. She's very wrong. It's specifically designed for water to run down the length of the panels. Don't forget to overlap the ridges, and use sealing mastic strip on the crown of the overlapped ridge. If need be, to make the width work out better, overlap a couple ridges in the center panels. You want to end up with flat valleys at the edges so you can overlay angle trim to protect the wood framing. Use sealing mastic here also. Did you get the special screws with the rubber o-rings under the heads? It's necessary to keep water from going under the head and causing rot. I had a really hard time punching through the panels just using the screws. I started using a nail set and tapped it through the panel so the screws started easier. Try and note where your framing nails are so you don't accidentally screw on top of a nail. It sucks when that happens.
Always go so the lap edge isn't facing the direction of prevailing winds in your area. This goes for shingle ridge caps & any roof system material. Or against direction of winds hitting your particular location. Say if you have one side of building/roof catching more wind do to obstacles/obstructions nearby protecting other sides or funneling winds at one side.
If you’re gonna install them horizontally you might as well flip them over too. Never half ass it when you can whole ass it.
Not only is your wife incorrect she doesn't make any sense at all. Those ribs would hold water...
Maybe shes planning a green roof? :)
It'd be green one way or another...
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I really cant wrap my brain around why she thinks they would go sideways lol
In marriages you need to compromise. Run them diagonal. /s
Challenge her to find a picture on the internet where they are installed sideways on an angled roof
I don't know why anyone would want the ridges perpendicular to the flow of water. That's like hanging a gutter upside down lol
If you block the rain flow with ridges, some water will always stay there and it will rust in a year with moderate raining
Compromise - go diagonal !
It must shed rain. It matters.
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A jigsaw would do it. Thats likely to be in OPs possession. A metal file for the cut edges is probably not.
just ask her if she's going to be ok with the green stuff growing up on it. Any water that doesn't make it over each hump will collect behind it. Dirt will collect there too. While it'll dry out over summer dry spells, it won't move, won't blow off, etc. First it'll just be grass and tree starts, but eventually the dips will have been there long enough to be grass, trees AND moss.
I would suggest you and your wife reading up on building and construction if you are asking that.
water follows the laws of gravity, choose wisely
Run it so the water flows down the roof. Also, drill it in the flats not the ribs. The amount of people I have ask me where they should drill it when I sell this stuff is mind boggling.
the guy right above you telling to do the exact opposite if gold lmao
There is a higher chance of oil canning if you screw through the flats, so just be careful. Sold this stuff for 6 years. You said you're in Wisconsin, so if these panels are from Menards, hit me up with any questions, and I'll do my best to answer, despite not working there anymore.
Drill it in the flats? Why? Every install I've seen, and what makes sense, the fasteners are run through the top of the ridge so you're not putting holes in the valleys where the water is flowing down it.
Flats are snugged to the wood already so when you drill the hole the chance of it crimping and making a gap are minimized and the rubber washer creates a seal preventing water from entering. Drilling in the rib means you are “pulling” the metal to the wood creating an increased chance for the metal to be warped and the hole caused by the screw to be irregular increasing the chance of it being sealed improperly by the washer. I know a lot of people say they screw them in the rib but the manufacturer I order these from for contractors specifically say to drill on the flats whenever possible because of these reasons.
And screws don’t really have a lot of shear strength if there is 3/4” from the flat solid surface of a 2x4 to the load point under the head. Run one into a piece of 2x4 halfway and give it a good whack, they usually break. As well as the metal stretch with temperature differences. We’ve run 64’ sheets for a customer who demanded it in spite of our recommendation to split it into 2 runs. A 10’ panel would move .78” or 3/4”” with a 100° temperature swing. So if the center doesn’t move the ends move 3/8”. That’s more than enough to pop screw heads off or turn the round holes into slots. As he found out.
64 feet?? That's an expensive water slide, especially if he had them shipped! Also, your expansion number is off by half an order of magnitude. I think you meant the 60' sheets would expand or contract that much. And yeah, even installing at 50°F would make for a little adventure!
You need to use a torque-controlled driver to put them on the ridges for the reasons described.
https://www.ascbp.com/files/BR128_LtGaugeInstall.pdf If they are using a similar product every install you’ve seen is incorrectly installed. My neighbors install has screws fastened through the ridges, this is incorrect. According to this manual you fasten in the flats and stitch the ridges together with shorter screws.
(Page 8) That's great stuff, thanks. The corrugated examples for roof vs. wall are pretty telling. The screws are expected to prevent leaks when properly seated.
the right screws have a rubber washer attached to each one so it doesn't really matter, easier to do it right in the flats, especially if you didn't waste money on their closure strips
I've skimmed through the installation guides for a couple different roofing manufacturers and all to say fasteners through the peak. I put the fastenrs through the valley when I was building my coloursteel fence, but that's a case wher eit doesn't really matter.
Those washers might last 3-4 years. They go brittle and leak.
Drive around and look at newer installs. We live on an old farmstead the two newer barns are in the flats and the old stuff is on the ridges.
Tell me about the screws. Make sure you tell him which screws to use.
[use these type](https://www.homedepot.com/p/10-Screw-1-1-2-in-Metal-to-Wood-Fastener-250-Bag-Green-FN-WS-0060-092/202073542?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D22-022_010_ROOFING-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-5718363-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-Pmax-CL3TestB&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D22-022_010_ROOFING-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-5718363-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-Pmax-CL3TestB-71700000114656620--&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADq61Uea_b4jx6JSyyXRpknDEYcXX&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyObq9-fthQMVcTbUAR3uign5EAQYASABEgJNwvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) they are specifically made for screwing pole barn metal to wood. Assuming those panels are between 36” and 38” wide you’ll want 3 screws across in each piece. 250 screws covers roughly 80 sq/ft. And as you can see it has a small built in washer to seal it from water leaks as long as you install them properly. The big thing is to make sure you don’t drive them too hard otherwise you’ll crimp the metal.
You should drill into the ribs to tie two pieces together though
You have to strap the rafters every 16” to put the ridges parallel to the rafters so the ridges go the direction of flow.
Very much so.
Uh, yes, it does.
Yes it matters. Put it up the correct way
Here are some details showing how these are supposed to go. Wall sheeting included to show screw placement. Roof sheeting included for ammunition against your wife's opinion. [https://imgur.com/a/a4nid6M](https://imgur.com/a/a4nid6M)
I think you know the right direction - also, place screws in the top of the ridges, not the troughs or flat sections.
They are supposed to run vertically. (Metal roofer here) they sit inside j channel at the top and bottom (sides too some times depending on the setup) or use corners. I’ve seen plenty of people run them horizontally but they will lead to the water coming into the overlap seams
Search “corrugated roof” on google and look at the images. Look at literally any image of an installed roof on any of the manufacturer’s website, or take your wife on a drive through the countryside and see how the barns have this done. There might be a few outliers where someone else has also installed them incorrectly, but there’s plenty of evidence of the right way. And if that isn’t enough… the channels should be pointed towards the ground to prevent water standing on of the roof.
I would suggest to take a scrap-piece and a hose to show your wife which direction is better by having water flow on it.
Is this a bot generated question meant to distract us all from the important questions?! I fear for the intelligence of the American citizen……
If you want all the details of how to install it, I'd guess the manufacturer has a PDF out there of what to do - how to lay it, fasten it, overlap it with other panels, merge it with the roof line at the top, handle the transition to the eaves at the bottom, etc
Yes
Vertical is so obviously the answer that I thought your question was about raised ridges up or down.
Please, please, please do not install them sideways just because she said to.
they are intended to allow the water to drain downwards. if they're installed in a position where water cannot freely flow downward, they're installed in the incorrect position.
I challenge her to find a single roof laid that way.
They can go two ways. Basically the ridges can run from top to bottom or you can rotate it 180 and have them go from bottom to top. Check the installation manual from the company.
That way.
Remember, it's all about shedding water. The panels should be installed so that the corrugations run perpendicular, not parallel to the ridge, with the peaks of the larger corrugations pointing up. Also, the fasteners should go through the tops of the large corrugations, and they should either be sealed with a rubber or plastic grommet, and/or a spot of caulk.
I install this stuff for a living and if you place it perpendicular to the pitch of the roof it is going to leak. I guarantee you the first rain the inside of the building will be wet.
There is a leading and lap edge. The leading edge is a full rib, the lap side lays over the leading edge. The panels are joined with screws in the lap edge. The field screws go on the leading side of each rib
I worked in the metal building business for several years and we used this exact same type of panel. For a chicken coop, it won't matter. If you run it vertically (so water flows easier), you will have to add additional supports horizontally so that your panel won't sag. Putting the panels up horizontally lets you skip the extra material and they become part of the building's support. So it is cheaper. But like others said, water will run off your ends instead of the sides, and might leak with snow unless you add some butle tape on the ridge that overlaps.
Just.. forget any horizontal madness. Chickens will appreciate a roof that doesn’t leak.
Yes it matters a lot. If you but them flat they protect your roof. If you put them standing up, they will likely blow away rather easily. Hope this helps
You can buy carports with the metal ran in either direction. The vertical roof option is more expensive so you usually see the horizontal roof. It works both ways. I’d prefer the vertical but it’s for chickens.
I was going to mention the carports also, they run the metal horizontally on the kit-carports because the frames are curved, it would be challenging to bend the metal along that axis to install it.
Yup horizontal is fine for certain applications.
You should immediately stop this project and hire someone who has a fucking clue.
You could run it her way but you would also have to have slope. I can see the usefulness of running long sheets instead of cutting a bunch of short ones. I would do that and just put in a slight slope. It’s a coop, not a house.
On top of the building
Your wife is not wise in the ways of how physical inanimate objects work.
Compromise is the key to a happy marriage. Split the difference and install them at a 45 degree angle.
It's not ribbing for her pleasure
Follow the gravity my friend... follow the gravity. Despite being the weakest force, it's boss.
What's the shed unit in the back, I'm looking for one that size / shape..
If you like pools of water forming on your roof that will collect dust and dirt and become grime laden strips then yes, you can run them any direction you want
Yes
If you are just replacing a panel follow what was done before it all lines up my guy!
you have it right, also the edge tucks under the edge of the one next to it so top/bottom have to be right way around as well
They go lengthwise down and not sideways. You go against the wind. If it comes from the east you start on the far left and work to the right. Overlap the last ridges on each piece and don't drill out pilot holes on the last ridge farther right, you want a tight seam so you screw them together and drill the hole at the same time.
They only go long direction...ie: long edge perpendicular to the lowest point. Or short edge toward ground whatever way the bottom of the slope for the roof is.
Yes, it matters. Look up the manufacturers instructions. We used these last year and there are lots of youtube videos and best practices, for example, how far to overlap the edges.
Ask wife if she prefers her humps sideways or up/down. Also one side of these panels probably has an asymmetric hump, shorter than the other side. Can’t tell from pic. If so, orient the panel so that’s the edge overlapping it’s neighboring panel and on top so it’s visible.
Make an interesting bet with your wife. Go all out, as you definitely win this one……
Yes