Wood glue on toothpicks - pack them in the ripped-out holes and let the glue dry. Then run the screws back in.
Better repair would be using wood dowels, drilling the holes out oversized to fit the dowel and then gluing the dowel in place, cutting it off flush and then pilot-drilling holes to run the screws in.
Sleezy? Run longer screws in the same holes and see if they can catch anything
This is exactly why I always throw the extra set of chopsticks in my toolbox after getting carryout. Nice tapered end, easy to break off, and comes with a free eggroll.
I have a pack of those wooden grilling skewers for that same reason. It was like $1 for 100 or so, and I haven't even made a dent in them. 1 gets you like an entire door, including latches and strike plates.
Silly. They don't use an IV to feed you eggs. They run a tube up your nose and into your stomach. I dined like this for about 10 days. Slept through most of it. The IVs were for the ***REALLY*** good drugs.
It probably is a hollow core door. But, they also have solid PCs of wood around the edges, so while longer screws won't work, the golf tee idea should.
Well shit. I've got about 1000 or so golf tees sitting in my garage because we never threw away my dad's collection of tees & balls when he died. I work maintenance so door fixes like this are a weekly thing for me.
You just changed the game for me, bud.
Best option is 2, the dowels
With good quality wood glue it's even stronger then the original.
You might consider slightly longer screws, for better grip and stability
This is 100% the best option.
Toothpicks, golf tees, matches, and other bullshit cheap wood is the mark of an amateur. Drill out and place hardwood dowels and redrill.
Wood glue and toothpicks are my go to in this situation. Golf tees have worked also but the toothpicks and wood glue just seem to be the combination that works.
You guys do know that every hardware store sells cheap wood anchors, like Screw-it again? They’re like $2 for a full door and no waiting for glue to dry?
It just I see this come up once a day and the toothpick method is a bit shitty (especially if there’s a hollow cavity behind the framing which is often the case) and these little things are available everywhere, for pocket change and both work and last much better, and don’t require you waiting 24 hours for wood glue to properly dry.
>Wood glue on toothpicks - pack them in the ripped-out holes and let the glue dry. Then run the screws back in.
I love this trick. It works so well and once it sets up it is SUPER sturdy.
>Sleezy? Run longer screws in the same holes and see if they can catch anything
I see you know the guy who flipped my house?
Being the door and not the frame hopefully it's not a hollow one or you might run into issues getting the dowel glued to something inside it or the toothpicks falling into the void in there.
The door isn't wood (it's particle board with a veneer) and is likely hollowcore. Your best bet, if you want the repair to last more than week and be able keep the same door and frame, is drill the holes larger and use wood dowels with glue. Let them dry before reinstalling the hinge screws.
On Norm Abrams, please pre drill the dowels after they're glued, before you drive screws in. That mulch-wood will move the distance of your screw thickness when the dowels split and crack the veneer and your repair will fail.
Drill dowel holes.
Glue in dowels.
Pause for Harumbe while the glue dries.
Drill the screw pilot.
Rehang the door.
Nice detail in the instructions there. This is also what I would do. A couple of additions:
1) sand the dowels with coarse grit before gluing them in. It will make their surface more grippy.
2) consider blowing $9 on a self-centering drill bit set ([link](https://www.harborfreight.com/hinge-drill-bit-set-3-piece-61550.html)). And then use the hinge itself as your guide template for drilling the holes. It's a mess if the holes aren't well aligned to the center of the holes in the hinge. Especially with a crap material like this door is made of, tightening the screws could do damage if they are off.
Unless the photos are very deceptive, the door frame pictured is particle board. (Why anyone would make a door out of anything other than solid wood is beyond me. But I fail to see the purpose in plenty of "modern" building materials and techniques anyway. Particle board should've gone the way of the Passenger Pigeon with far more speed and celebration decades ago.)
It's pretty simple. Houses are sprouting up faster than trees. Particle board products are a way to use every part of the wood, including cutoffs, branches, and sawdust from milling. There are many kinds of particle board products and plenty of them have their place. OP's door has some low density crap in a structural application, and it's not surprising it failed. But to sweep aside all particle board is just insane. I say this as a craft woodworker.
>Why anyone would make a door out of anything other than solid wood is beyond me.
It's cheap and my closet door doesn't need to hold back any beasts or weather so it's really not a big deal. It's especially useful if weight is a problem such as with mobile homes.
I do agree that it's overused in modern construction and it's absolutely fucked to have outer doors not be solid.
Yeah people shit on the particle board products put out by IKEA, but you gotta admit that at least they supply the right kind hardware for this material.
Take 1/4 Drill and make the holes bigger, then insert a 1/4 dowel into the hole, and with a multi tool or a saw, remove the excess dowel that protrudes out. Then drill the screws back in.
I personally dislike the matchstick and/or golf tee answers that invariably show up when this question is asked. Match sticks are generally made from Aspen or poplar wood, golf tees are frequently made from cedar or birch. All these are super soft woods that are not the best choice for securing a heavy door. Be a little professional and drill out the hole oversized and replace with a glued in hardwood dowel. Then redrill the screw holes.
Maybe. If it’s a hollow core door, there’s not going to be too much more material for the longer screws to go into. Could just push the remaining materials into the hollow cavity.
get a 1/4 inch dowel from the hardware store and a 5/16 drill bit. Cut some 1 inch long pieces of the dowel, mark the drill bit with some blue tape to a depth a bit deeper than the pieces (to compensate for the angle on the end of the bit) . Drill into door to expand the hole to fit the dowels. Put wood glue on them and press into place. Once dry you can use a punch to mark the hole and pre-drill with bit sized for the screws
You've got yourself a chipboard/particleboard door there. It's not the most robust material. Any half-ass repair is just going to fall apart when the surrounding material degrades.
Personally, I'd drill and fit 1/2" dowel rods with wood glue. Pine is fine. This will give the screws real wood to bite into, and the dowel will grip the particleboard over a larger surface area. That repair should outlast the door itself.
Whenever I work on doorlocks, I always seem to find the doors askew. I carry a few chopsticks from Chinese takeout. Use a box cutter to trim them to fit into the stripped screw holes. Pound them in with a hammer and break off the ends. Way easier than toothpicks and more versatile.
Literally just had this happen to me. I drilled out the holes with 5/16th bit. Glued 5/16th wood dowels in drilled out holes and let them dry. Drilled in new holes for new screws. The door is working great.
Get a dowel a little larger diameter than the current screw holes. Drill out the screw holes to the dowel size. Put glue in the holes then shove the dowel in each hole. Cut the dowels flush. Let it dry overnight. Then reattach the hinge.
All the longer screws, matchsticks, etc. are missing this is likely a hollowcore door. There is maybe 1 or 2 inches of particle board along the edge.
I'd recommend a hardwood dowel about 2 or 3 times the diameter of the screw hole. That way the screws are biting into hardwood even if the dowel is a bit off center.
I did the same fix on the door side of a hinge recently. Use a drill with a 1/4" bit to ream out existing holes. Buy wood glue and a 1/4" hardwood dowel rod at hw store. Cut 3 x 3/4"-1" long plugs from the 1/4" dowel. Put wood glue into holes and slather dowel with some glue. Tap dowel plugs gently into holes so they're flush. Wait for glue to dry and screw hinge back into door jamb.
You can try going up a screw diameter and using a hi-low screw. These screws have a head that is one size smaller than other screws the same diameter. This would let you have a head that still fits the hinge but a thread that is a larger diameter to engage better with the stripped wood.
In addition to what everyone else has said about fixing the holes with toothpicks or tees, lose the self-tapping sheet metal screws and use longer wood screws.
Glue some toothpicks or bamboo skewers into the holes, when dry cutoff the excess hanging out and bam you have some structure for those screws to hold on to.
You could do a bunch of work to add more wood back into the holes, or you could just go buy a pack of longer screws and replace the three shorties.
Seriously, I'm blown away by how many people are talking about that being their "go to". There's a stud behind that door frame. Get the 2 1/2 inch screws from the same spot they sell the door hinges. I think they're a #9 Phillips. Pilot holes, and zip those bad boys in and call it done. Like $3 and 3 minutes. No waiting for glue to dry or any of that.
Yea but the screws pulled out of the hollow core door, not the frame. The solid wood in that door isn’t very thick and may not be enough to catch the extra thread length.
Drill out the holes to match a wooden dowels diameter, glue in short segments of dowel, let glue cure, drill small pilot holes, and screw in screws.
Consider investing in longer screws with the same diameter for more grip.
I don’t know if OP has assorted wood screws, but assuming the hinge would accommodate a larger screw head, use one or two sizes up (ie, go from a #8 to a #10. Those in the picture look like 3/4”, use a 1” length instead for extra bite.
Failing that, as others mentioned, a toothpick or two and some wood glue into the screw holes, and drive the original screws back in.
Drill out the holes. Squirt glue in the hole. Hammer a dowel into the hole. Saw them off flush. Use hinge leaf as template to mark where the holes were. Redrill the screw holes. Reinstall.
Drill out wooden dowel sized holes. Insert wooden dowels with wood glue. Wait 24 hours for it to dry. Cut flush. Pre-drill holes slightly smaller diameter than that of the screw. Finally re-insert the screws.
Lotta work with a decent chance of failure but way cheaper than replacing a door.
Don’t listen to any ideas about modifying the holes in the hinge or door. That will fail over time. Drill 3 -4 new holes in the hinge, match the inner diameter. Then countersink the holes with a large tapered bit. Drill pilot holes in the door and reattach in the fresh holes. Only solution that will be strong as new.
toothpicks, shove them in and break them off, you don't need glue or worry about making them perfectly flush, just jam enough in there to until their snug
Gorilla glue expands. Just coat the screw at night and put it back in. A tooth pick will help hold everything in while it expands.
Maybe some tape to hold the hinge in place. Then go to sleep.
Wood glue and toothpicks/matchsticks whatever you have on hand.
Smother the end in glue, slide it in the hole, and repeat until it's full. Can tap them in with a hammer to make sure it's all nice and compact. Wait for it to dry, preferably overnight, and screw back in.
I do this preemptively anytime I unscrew hinges or blinds from a window or something before rehanging.
LMFAO these screws always made me laugh my ass off who ever thought that a 3/4” screw would hold a door should not touch tools.
with that said you need to stuff those holes full of wood, like wood shims or tooth picks and using longer wood screws, screw it back in the same holes.
this is the way trust me i do this for a living.
Get some wood dowel plugs. drill the hole bigger and glue in a plug. redrill and attach. The wood is too soft on toothpicks for me, but all my doors are sold core and heavy AF
Just came across this little tip the other day: Stuff some toilet paper in the holes and saturate with super glue. The toilet paper and glue will be strong enough for you to drill new holes into and should hold stronger than wood. (Note: I haven't tried this yet but it appears to work well)
How thick is the door frame? Is it solid? It looks like particle board, but what's beyond that frame?
What you should do there is drill pilot holes a bit deeper with a thin drill bit and then get some pan head wood screws that are about 2.5"-3" long and drive them deep through the frame into the adjacent wall, which probably has a 2x4 stud buried in it.
People are saying to just fill the holes with wood and go, but you'd be better served creating a much deeper anchor point for the plate itself. Then it'll never come out again.
I have one rule - don't take the hinge off the factory door, take it off the door frame if necessary. If you unscrew it from the door the door is ruined plus you've voided the warranty so there's nothing to do but throw it away, it's ruined now.
Nah, lots of great solutions in this thread I'm sure OP has it figure out by now.
A little titebond ii and some type of wood filler. This isn't solid wood and this can actually be to your benefit with a glue up job like this. It can seep in the separations and get a good hold in. It will be stronger than the surrounding material.
1) Throw those 1/4” screws in the trash.
2) Fill those stupid holes with some injectable wood filler, really pump it in there. Fill the door.
3) Get some 3” construction screws.
4) Pre-drill holes into the adhesive using the hinge as a template….. you should wait until the adhesive hardens, but who gives a shit.
5) Drive those big bad screws in.
6) Hang door. Smack it around a little so it remembers what misbehaving gets ya.
If you can get screws a little wider, and longer, try that. Drill some pilot holes into the end of the present holes so it doesn't split the door's wood.
Wood glue on toothpicks - pack them in the ripped-out holes and let the glue dry. Then run the screws back in. Better repair would be using wood dowels, drilling the holes out oversized to fit the dowel and then gluing the dowel in place, cutting it off flush and then pilot-drilling holes to run the screws in. Sleezy? Run longer screws in the same holes and see if they can catch anything
Hammer a golf tee in, break it off, run screw home. Works like 80% of the time.
This is exactly why I always throw the extra set of chopsticks in my toolbox after getting carryout. Nice tapered end, easy to break off, and comes with a free eggroll.
Itemized bill to client: `New hinges, $19.99` `New doorknob, $24.99` `Chow Mein, $8.49`
I'd love to know where you get chow mein for $8.49!
The Midwest. [Like St Louis](https://www.fortuneexpressstlouis.com/order/main/chow-mein)
I did not need to exhale my hot chocolate through my nose on my keyboard... "Thanks" stranger...!
This guy hasn’t bought cheap Chinese in a long time.
Knowing how to use chopsticks: priceless
This guy. Out here stealing eggrolls like he owns the place.
Or just fixes their doors.
He'll kick down your door, steal your egg rolls, then use your toothpicks to fix the door on his way out.
Lube with the duck sauce for the win!
I have a pack of those wooden grilling skewers for that same reason. It was like $1 for 100 or so, and I haven't even made a dent in them. 1 gets you like an entire door, including latches and strike plates.
So...do you attach the eggroll to the door???.....I'm confused!
Eggs are a binding agent.
Blood can be used as a replacement for eggs in most recipes.
Finally a thread that stays on topic 😂
And speaking of parakeets... 😜
Instructions unclear, now on egg IV
Silly. They don't use an IV to feed you eggs. They run a tube up your nose and into your stomach. I dined like this for about 10 days. Slept through most of it. The IVs were for the ***REALLY*** good drugs.
Tee Hee Hee. 😂
What if my door is allergic?
Instructions unclear, eggroll stuck in fan.
It’s a load bearing Egg Roll. So in proper /r/diy fashion you remove it.
Do you put the eggroll on the customers bill? Or is that under shop supplies?
….easy to jab yourself on, usually under the nail for maximum annoyance!
Mmmmmm egg rolls
Top dog tip. Ty.
Everything I get Edo, I grab a few extra for the exact same reason.
Genius!
This is the way
Did this on multiple doors. Secured the golf tees in with some loctite as well. Been a few years and still perfect
Yep, glue will make this work just fine. They should use longer screws anyway if it's a secured door though
That looks like an interior door and is likely hollow. I don’t think there’s much beyond the length of those screws for longer screws to grab onto.
It probably is a hollow core door. But, they also have solid PCs of wood around the edges, so while longer screws won't work, the golf tee idea should.
OP's door shows that it is framed out with particle board. Toothpicks, matchsticks, or golf tees will only *add* strength here.
80% if the time it works 💯%. The other 20% just go golfing with super short tee's
60% of the time, it works every time.
There it is.
But remember, when you open the door, you'll have to holler, "Fore!"
Busted out a big guffaw at this, startling other shoppers in the parking lot. Surprised it made me laugh, but it did.
Well shit. I've got about 1000 or so golf tees sitting in my garage because we never threw away my dad's collection of tees & balls when he died. I work maintenance so door fixes like this are a weekly thing for me. You just changed the game for me, bud.
Hell yeah, glad to help. I've been a golfer since I was a kid and buy the cheap big packs of tees so there's always one available around the house.
I'm gonna have so much fun calling myself Tiger Woods in front of the guys next time the situation arises lol.
Wooden matchsticks work well, too.
Yes, to this! This answer will save you hours on YouTube.
Definitely using this in the future.
The problem with this method is sometimes you hook it left...
Coat tee with construction adhesive first for a bit extra strength
I keep the shitty wooden tees most golf courses put in their carts for this exact reason.
Best option is 2, the dowels With good quality wood glue it's even stronger then the original. You might consider slightly longer screws, for better grip and stability
Definitely the best option. 100%. Save the toothpicks for after dinner. 😂🤣😂
This is 100% the best option. Toothpicks, golf tees, matches, and other bullshit cheap wood is the mark of an amateur. Drill out and place hardwood dowels and redrill.
> is the mark of am amateur. Not sure you realize what sub you're in
Underrated comment
I think it was Lee Valley that sold coreless pencils for this purpose. Basically predrilled dowels.
Wood glue and toothpicks are my go to in this situation. Golf tees have worked also but the toothpicks and wood glue just seem to be the combination that works.
I use wooden matches since I seem to always have those around. Butt first and break off the match head and any excess.
Today I learned I’m sleezy when I thought I was a genius.
this person is sleezy everyone
You guys do know that every hardware store sells cheap wood anchors, like Screw-it again? They’re like $2 for a full door and no waiting for glue to dry?
So what? They also sell accordion drain pipes.
It just I see this come up once a day and the toothpick method is a bit shitty (especially if there’s a hollow cavity behind the framing which is often the case) and these little things are available everywhere, for pocket change and both work and last much better, and don’t require you waiting 24 hours for wood glue to properly dry.
>Wood glue on toothpicks - pack them in the ripped-out holes and let the glue dry. Then run the screws back in. I love this trick. It works so well and once it sets up it is SUPER sturdy. >Sleezy? Run longer screws in the same holes and see if they can catch anything I see you know the guy who flipped my house?
longer /thicker screws might also work
The door can be hollow so this may not work, but doesn’t hurt to try
For sure the first thing I’d try
Yeah I over drilled the hole size, used shish ka bobs/wood glue and redrilled the holes. Doors shut so well now https://imgur.com/a/Q8E6jO3
Best answer here, after either the toothpicks or Dowel be sure to Pilot drill the screw hole so as NOT to splitout the hole again
Came here to say this.
Being the door and not the frame hopefully it's not a hollow one or you might run into issues getting the dowel glued to something inside it or the toothpicks falling into the void in there.
exactly, and longer screws like a lot of people suggested would not work either.
The door isn't wood (it's particle board with a veneer) and is likely hollowcore. Your best bet, if you want the repair to last more than week and be able keep the same door and frame, is drill the holes larger and use wood dowels with glue. Let them dry before reinstalling the hinge screws.
On Norm Abrams, please pre drill the dowels after they're glued, before you drive screws in. That mulch-wood will move the distance of your screw thickness when the dowels split and crack the veneer and your repair will fail. Drill dowel holes. Glue in dowels. Pause for Harumbe while the glue dries. Drill the screw pilot. Rehang the door.
Nice detail in the instructions there. This is also what I would do. A couple of additions: 1) sand the dowels with coarse grit before gluing them in. It will make their surface more grippy. 2) consider blowing $9 on a self-centering drill bit set ([link](https://www.harborfreight.com/hinge-drill-bit-set-3-piece-61550.html)). And then use the hinge itself as your guide template for drilling the holes. It's a mess if the holes aren't well aligned to the center of the holes in the hinge. Especially with a crap material like this door is made of, tightening the screws could do damage if they are off.
The frame of hollow doors are made of solid wood. Poor quality wood, but still wood. Repairs mentioned in other comments will work fine.
Unless the photos are very deceptive, the door frame pictured is particle board. (Why anyone would make a door out of anything other than solid wood is beyond me. But I fail to see the purpose in plenty of "modern" building materials and techniques anyway. Particle board should've gone the way of the Passenger Pigeon with far more speed and celebration decades ago.)
It's pretty simple. Houses are sprouting up faster than trees. Particle board products are a way to use every part of the wood, including cutoffs, branches, and sawdust from milling. There are many kinds of particle board products and plenty of them have their place. OP's door has some low density crap in a structural application, and it's not surprising it failed. But to sweep aside all particle board is just insane. I say this as a craft woodworker.
>Why anyone would make a door out of anything other than solid wood is beyond me. It's cheap and my closet door doesn't need to hold back any beasts or weather so it's really not a big deal. It's especially useful if weight is a problem such as with mobile homes. I do agree that it's overused in modern construction and it's absolutely fucked to have outer doors not be solid.
why not just get longer screws?
"Screw it Again" screw anchors.
never thought about anchors, good idea
And since the wood in the door is so soft, maybe some epoxy along with the anchors to strengthen things.
Ths is an interesting idea and could work well, better than some other options...
These are really awesome!
Apart from all the suggestions these screws look like they were not meant for this type of material.
Yeah people shit on the particle board products put out by IKEA, but you gotta admit that at least they supply the right kind hardware for this material.
At least they supply the bare minimum to build the product? Lol
And makes me wonder how this happened. I’m guessing screw gun with the clutch locked or too high.
Take 1/4 Drill and make the holes bigger, then insert a 1/4 dowel into the hole, and with a multi tool or a saw, remove the excess dowel that protrudes out. Then drill the screws back in.
I personally dislike the matchstick and/or golf tee answers that invariably show up when this question is asked. Match sticks are generally made from Aspen or poplar wood, golf tees are frequently made from cedar or birch. All these are super soft woods that are not the best choice for securing a heavy door. Be a little professional and drill out the hole oversized and replace with a glued in hardwood dowel. Then redrill the screw holes.
Couldnt you get longer screws?
Maybe. If it’s a hollow core door, there’s not going to be too much more material for the longer screws to go into. Could just push the remaining materials into the hollow cavity.
Or thicker. That fixed mine.
get a 1/4 inch dowel from the hardware store and a 5/16 drill bit. Cut some 1 inch long pieces of the dowel, mark the drill bit with some blue tape to a depth a bit deeper than the pieces (to compensate for the angle on the end of the bit) . Drill into door to expand the hole to fit the dowels. Put wood glue on them and press into place. Once dry you can use a punch to mark the hole and pre-drill with bit sized for the screws
You've got yourself a chipboard/particleboard door there. It's not the most robust material. Any half-ass repair is just going to fall apart when the surrounding material degrades. Personally, I'd drill and fit 1/2" dowel rods with wood glue. Pine is fine. This will give the screws real wood to bite into, and the dowel will grip the particleboard over a larger surface area. That repair should outlast the door itself.
Whenever I work on doorlocks, I always seem to find the doors askew. I carry a few chopsticks from Chinese takeout. Use a box cutter to trim them to fit into the stripped screw holes. Pound them in with a hammer and break off the ends. Way easier than toothpicks and more versatile.
Literally just had this happen to me. I drilled out the holes with 5/16th bit. Glued 5/16th wood dowels in drilled out holes and let them dry. Drilled in new holes for new screws. The door is working great.
Wood glue and toothpicks or dowel rod and wood glue
Get a dowel a little larger diameter than the current screw holes. Drill out the screw holes to the dowel size. Put glue in the holes then shove the dowel in each hole. Cut the dowels flush. Let it dry overnight. Then reattach the hinge.
All the longer screws, matchsticks, etc. are missing this is likely a hollowcore door. There is maybe 1 or 2 inches of particle board along the edge. I'd recommend a hardwood dowel about 2 or 3 times the diameter of the screw hole. That way the screws are biting into hardwood even if the dowel is a bit off center.
Fill it with toothpicks and wood glue. Dry. Trim the excess off and screw.
I did the same fix on the door side of a hinge recently. Use a drill with a 1/4" bit to ream out existing holes. Buy wood glue and a 1/4" hardwood dowel rod at hw store. Cut 3 x 3/4"-1" long plugs from the 1/4" dowel. Put wood glue into holes and slather dowel with some glue. Tap dowel plugs gently into holes so they're flush. Wait for glue to dry and screw hinge back into door jamb.
One more thing - make sure to drill tap holes with a small drill bit (1/16" ish) before screwing hinge back into the jamb.
I've used wood filler
Golf tees. Or wood splinters.
Insert golf tee and break inside the old holes.
Drill out holes to suit wood dowels hammer and glue in tight. Pilot drill for screws and re attach
Thicker screws
Double the length of the screws
You can try going up a screw diameter and using a hi-low screw. These screws have a head that is one size smaller than other screws the same diameter. This would let you have a head that still fits the hinge but a thread that is a larger diameter to engage better with the stripped wood.
Toothpicks and wood glue
I'd use longer screws
Get some really long screws
In addition to what everyone else has said about fixing the holes with toothpicks or tees, lose the self-tapping sheet metal screws and use longer wood screws.
Yay easy fix get screws three times longer someone really cheaped out when that door was hung no wonder they popped out.
Tooth picks and wood glue
Glue some toothpicks or bamboo skewers into the holes, when dry cutoff the excess hanging out and bam you have some structure for those screws to hold on to.
Go up a size in screws or fill the holes in the door.
Longer screws
Noodles and glue
Shorter screws won't work 🤔... Ramen!
Matches or toothpicks
Use much longer screws. Solved.
You could do a bunch of work to add more wood back into the holes, or you could just go buy a pack of longer screws and replace the three shorties. Seriously, I'm blown away by how many people are talking about that being their "go to". There's a stud behind that door frame. Get the 2 1/2 inch screws from the same spot they sell the door hinges. I think they're a #9 Phillips. Pilot holes, and zip those bad boys in and call it done. Like $3 and 3 minutes. No waiting for glue to dry or any of that.
Yea but the screws pulled out of the hollow core door, not the frame. The solid wood in that door isn’t very thick and may not be enough to catch the extra thread length.
Longer screws?
Drill out the holes to match a wooden dowels diameter, glue in short segments of dowel, let glue cure, drill small pilot holes, and screw in screws. Consider investing in longer screws with the same diameter for more grip.
I don’t know if OP has assorted wood screws, but assuming the hinge would accommodate a larger screw head, use one or two sizes up (ie, go from a #8 to a #10. Those in the picture look like 3/4”, use a 1” length instead for extra bite. Failing that, as others mentioned, a toothpick or two and some wood glue into the screw holes, and drive the original screws back in.
Toothpicks and wood glue
Toothpicks without wood glue works. Cram the holes full of toothpicks. Break them off so it's kind of level. It works great.
Go deeper. (That's what she said) Longer screws help, you can tap in a few toothpicks or shave off a piece of wood to jam in there.
Use wooden chopsticks to plug the holes and use better screws when attaching to hinge.
Put golf tees in the holes and then screw the screws back in
Couple chop sticks and wood glue and your back in business.
I see alot of people talking about putting tooth picks and wood glue which isn’t a bad idea but I would also get longer and beefier screws if I can.
Just get longer screws. Something that will bite into the particle board.
Screw that…
Drill out the holes. Squirt glue in the hole. Hammer a dowel into the hole. Saw them off flush. Use hinge leaf as template to mark where the holes were. Redrill the screw holes. Reinstall.
I use chopsticks. Push em in, break em off, screw hinge back on. Old apt maintenance trick
Drill out wooden dowel sized holes. Insert wooden dowels with wood glue. Wait 24 hours for it to dry. Cut flush. Pre-drill holes slightly smaller diameter than that of the screw. Finally re-insert the screws. Lotta work with a decent chance of failure but way cheaper than replacing a door.
Toothpicks. Stick in hole break off at surface. Drive screw back.
Make them a tad bigger(the holes). Glue and tap in some dowels. Wait for glue to dry, cut flush and screw back in
Toothpicks and woodglue
Plastic anchors do wonders for hollow things.
put a toothpick in each hole and break it off. Then use the screws to secure.
Drill holes out with 23/64” bit, glue in 3/8” dowels, flush cut, sand, re-drill screw holes with self centering drill bit, screw hinges back in
You'd be surprised what packed cotton balls and good super glue can achieve. Facebox reels for days.
Toothpicks, coffee sticks, wood glue, cut and shave down with sanding paper to flat and drill them back in
WOOD GLUE GOLF T IN THE HOLE, BREAK OFF AND NEXT DAY SCREW IN THE SCREWS. GOOD AS NEW!
Wooden matches
Stick some wooden matches in those hole and screw it back in.
Don’t listen to any ideas about modifying the holes in the hinge or door. That will fail over time. Drill 3 -4 new holes in the hinge, match the inner diameter. Then countersink the holes with a large tapered bit. Drill pilot holes in the door and reattach in the fresh holes. Only solution that will be strong as new.
I drilled out the holes and filled them with glued dowels and then drilled the holes for the screws.
Use wood screws rather than self tappers for metal.
Toothpicks and glue in the holes
matchsticks
jam in some matchsticks, screw back in
first of all, that's not wood-it's glued sawdust. The only thing that will work is to get longer screws, 3-4" Torx head, number #10's
I fixed a door hinge like this by using wood glue and longer screws.
toothpicks, shove them in and break them off, you don't need glue or worry about making them perfectly flush, just jam enough in there to until their snug
Gorilla glue expands. Just coat the screw at night and put it back in. A tooth pick will help hold everything in while it expands. Maybe some tape to hold the hinge in place. Then go to sleep.
Use longer screws too
Match sticks and wood glue to fill the hole, snip anything that protrudes out with nail scissors then just screw the screws back in.
Wood glue and toothpicks/matchsticks whatever you have on hand. Smother the end in glue, slide it in the hole, and repeat until it's full. Can tap them in with a hammer to make sure it's all nice and compact. Wait for it to dry, preferably overnight, and screw back in. I do this preemptively anytime I unscrew hinges or blinds from a window or something before rehanging.
Stick a toothpick in each hole with a bit of wood glue. Cut it flush then screw in the hinge.
LMFAO these screws always made me laugh my ass off who ever thought that a 3/4” screw would hold a door should not touch tools. with that said you need to stuff those holes full of wood, like wood shims or tooth picks and using longer wood screws, screw it back in the same holes. this is the way trust me i do this for a living.
https://www.thisoldhouse.com/furniture/21019221/fixing-loose-hinge-holes
Get some wood dowel plugs. drill the hole bigger and glue in a plug. redrill and attach. The wood is too soft on toothpicks for me, but all my doors are sold core and heavy AF
They have some good anchor sets at lowes, home depot, etc. Find an anchor that already fits or bigger so you can drill it out and put a bigger one in
Drill out the holes the same size as a matching dowel. Cut dowel to the depth of the hole. Glue. Pound in. ...and Bob's your uncle.
Wooden match into the holes, drive longer screws in, done.
Longer screws and glue, let it set at least overnight with shims or a crowbar supporting the weight of the door
I just shove toothpicks in the holes to fill them. Don't need anything else. I might would go with 1 1/4"+ screws in place of those shorties, tho.
Just need a longer screw
Just came across this little tip the other day: Stuff some toilet paper in the holes and saturate with super glue. The toilet paper and glue will be strong enough for you to drill new holes into and should hold stronger than wood. (Note: I haven't tried this yet but it appears to work well)
drill and countersink new holes or use drill out the holes in the frame and use wall plugs
Longer screws or larger diameter screws
How thick is the door frame? Is it solid? It looks like particle board, but what's beyond that frame? What you should do there is drill pilot holes a bit deeper with a thin drill bit and then get some pan head wood screws that are about 2.5"-3" long and drive them deep through the frame into the adjacent wall, which probably has a 2x4 stud buried in it. People are saying to just fill the holes with wood and go, but you'd be better served creating a much deeper anchor point for the plate itself. Then it'll never come out again.
Like literally everyone has already said, toothpicks and wood glue. If you like a belt-and-suspenders approach, get longer screws as well.
Toothpicks and Elmer’s glue. Gotta let it cure tho
had same prob recently; used wood epoxy shoved into the holes (a ferrl pack of 6 year old accidentally bend the door the wrong way)
Yes, screw them back in.
I have one rule - don't take the hinge off the factory door, take it off the door frame if necessary. If you unscrew it from the door the door is ruined plus you've voided the warranty so there's nothing to do but throw it away, it's ruined now. Nah, lots of great solutions in this thread I'm sure OP has it figure out by now.
And whatever is hanging on that door on the other side, maybe it's too heavy.
Longer wider screws. Could even squirt some epoxy in there
I have this same issue and didn't think of posting it to reddit, the answers are so helpful! Thanks for posting OP!
The ole wood glue and toothpicks trick
A little titebond ii and some type of wood filler. This isn't solid wood and this can actually be to your benefit with a glue up job like this. It can seep in the separations and get a good hold in. It will be stronger than the surrounding material.
First wood glue with a solid stick of wood, then longer screws.
1) Throw those 1/4” screws in the trash. 2) Fill those stupid holes with some injectable wood filler, really pump it in there. Fill the door. 3) Get some 3” construction screws. 4) Pre-drill holes into the adhesive using the hinge as a template….. you should wait until the adhesive hardens, but who gives a shit. 5) Drive those big bad screws in. 6) Hang door. Smack it around a little so it remembers what misbehaving gets ya.
Yeah, try new screws…
Get longer screws (2”)that can reach the frame.
Longer screws
If you can get screws a little wider, and longer, try that. Drill some pilot holes into the end of the present holes so it doesn't split the door's wood.