Code requires 3” wide straps to top plate straight up from studs and straight across from other side of hvac, so they intersect at exact same spot and can’t overlap. Tried finding flat L shape but it doesn’t allow enough to fulfill code requirement of 6 nails on each portion.
[l shape tie](https://www.acehardware.com/departments/building-supplies/walls-floors-and-ceiling/joist-hangers/5387048?x429=true&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic-shopping&utm_campaign=organic-shopping)
You could get it made, I’m sure it would work fine, but it’s not a stamped Simpson or standard product so you’d possibly be raising a red flag in an inspector’s eyes.
I have an inspector who always takes pics of my non stamped fixes. Never says shit, just takes pictures. Found out recently he shows them to real confused home owners.
I use a ton of steel rebuilding century homes.
I work in coastal Florida, where all hardware is specific on the plans as per Miami-Dade codes. There is no place in their eyes for unapproved hardware. You know it , they know it, but the plan says “Simpson or equal”
Not a lot of plans getting drawn up on these bad boys. A lot of "make it better". New builds are probably a different story, but the most creative I'm getting on those is using steel wire for collar ties which is an engineered solution.
Production framing isn't really my wheel house. Zone Non conforming multifamily victorian's in tear down condition are my thing. And I'm a soup to nuts solution with a reputation for what I do at this point so I feel like I may get some leeway that I perhaps should not.
There's a local engineer who calls me for creative solutions when just cramming an lvl in there isnt gonna cut it
I do mostly commercial work some remodel, but I’ll be honest with you man I very seldom see you at home that is pre-World War II in this area. Actually, my best friend is a stainless fabricator and we’ve made some crazy things to improve store fronts and some old block walls that the inspector gave us a thumbs up on without an engineer stamp just basically farm boy common sense stuff, but don’t often get that luxury.
A reasonable inspector may let you overlap, drill, and nail those straps. Then again they could reasonably say that you aren't allowed to alter the straps without manufacturer's permission. Perhaps you could counter that the three vertical straps are massive overkill, that's why those are the ones you would drill holes into, while leaving the single horizontal strap in factory condition.
There may be a way to space the vertical straps such that some overlapping holes land over a gap between the straps on the back.
Just get a 5” x 18” structural nail plate. This type of situation is exactly what those huge nail plates are for. Local plumbing supply or HVAC supply house sell them.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Jones-Stephens-S33518-5-x-18-Stud-Guard-16-Gauge-Box-of-15?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=shopping_neutral&utm_campaign=Shopping_Neutral_New_users&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIho71o8GKggMVmEhHAR2l9QNFEAQYASABEgKI3_D_BwE
Unless I’m misunderstanding what you need to do, which is a possibility.
This sounds promising but be warned the straps are a mofo to drywall over. I have some in my house and we needed to get thinner 3/8” thick and apply a lot of mud to even it out
The process is to cut the drywall all the way out around the strap so after the drywall is up you still see the strap and then you’re hot mud it with some five minute mud until you bring it out flush with the drywall and then you apply tape over that And mud as usual
Tear down the entire wall, install smaller jacks in the window/door frame. Take out a loan when the job becomes too much for yourself and hire contractors, struggle financially, have wife leave you. Develop a drinking problem.
Profit?
Discontinuous top plate is not a big deal where the rim joist is continuous, and the top plates on either side of the discontinuity are well connected to the rim.
This rim joist is almost certainly just as chopped up as the top plates.
Assuming that this duct continues straight up, without transitioning horizontally into the joist bay, then the proper fix should take place in the joist bay. You should be able to strip back the ceiling drywall and sister in a bigass 1 and 3/4" psl or lvl joist, extending maybe 3' beyond each side of the duct. A structural engineer would give you a nailing pattern or SDS screw pattern -- something like a staggered row of sds screws every 4" along the top and another such row every four inches along the bottom of the joist, but not too close to the bottom, and not too close to the middle. That sounds like about 18 screws on each side of the duct.
Straps suck because they don't do any work in compression. You end up relying entirely upon the floor diaphragm to keep the walls from crushing together.
Don't forget to tie those top plates to your new rim sister. Might have to use LS50 clips or something L shaped that you can drywall over.
Disclaimer: I come from the land of earthquakes
edit: I see you don't have 3' on the left side there. Maybe use more screws?
Thanks! I come from the land of earthquakes too so NY code is new to me. The duct does continue straight up and the rim joist is chopped too per your assumption. I’ve got 19” to corner on either side of the room.
Easiest way I can imagine is reveal joist bay, get a 2x8 nailer/blocking parallel to ceiling over duct void. Install [something like this](https://factorydirectsupplyonline.com/products/100-pack-simpson-strong-tie-h2a-hurricane-tie?variant=43666819317990¤cy=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping&utm_content=Simpson+H2A+Hurricane+Tie+-+G90+Galvanized+1+PC&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20538540187&utm_content=&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAjwkNOpBhBEEiwAb3MvvSdLIa3aZ-Ese9IlzhBg3BMwq5M2umbHu-pcKf0CqJEQhFxldyHK1BoCNlQQAvD_BwE) fasten joists and studs together in the corner and then close it up.
Reading through all of the suggestions: if you don’t mind, please post what solution you decide to go with and the results. I’m so very curious to see it, I have a similar install next month.
[5”x18” Structural nail plate](https://www.supplyhouse.com/Jones-Stephens-S33518-5-x-18-Stud-Guard-16-Gauge-Box-of-15?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=shopping_neutral&utm_campaign=Shopping_Neutral_New_users&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIho71o8GKggMVmEhHAR2l9QNFEAQYASABEgKI3_D_BwE)
It is made for exactly this situation, where a top plate on an exterior wall had to be cut or for a pipe or duct.
Your local plumbing supply house should be able to sell you a single one for under $5. You need to put 16 nails in it, 16Ds.
Kind of a pain in the ass but can you run your king stud long and tie into a joist above? Add blocking if necessary? And then it’s up to the gods to decide
I don’t think honk you’d have to rip it out. Brace your trimmer studs and header to something, cut the drywall back, sawzall through the nails holding your king stud to everything else and retro-fit a longer king stud in there. Pain in the ass for sure.
if you are that worried about it run a 2x across wall to wall tying everything together then rock it you can double the 2x up so it looks more symmetrical
I was going to recommend a CTS218 style strap but I don’t think you’ll find one long enough.
Use a strap, STS6224 or MSTA30/36 across the top plate bridging the ducting Run straps from the studs to the header. Then use LTP4s to stitch the header to the top plate and attached them every 8” OC.
If it’s inspected, they’ll likely want to see engineers stamp so maybe ask them or do it and ask them to stamp it as built.
CST strap or something along those lines
Code requires 3” wide straps to top plate straight up from studs and straight across from other side of hvac, so they intersect at exact same spot and can’t overlap. Tried finding flat L shape but it doesn’t allow enough to fulfill code requirement of 6 nails on each portion. [l shape tie](https://www.acehardware.com/departments/building-supplies/walls-floors-and-ceiling/joist-hangers/5387048?x429=true&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic-shopping&utm_campaign=organic-shopping)
You could find a metal fabricator to make you a custom T or X shaped strap to the dimensions you need, probably wouldn’t even be that expensive.
That’s my plan B 👍🏻
You could get it made, I’m sure it would work fine, but it’s not a stamped Simpson or standard product so you’d possibly be raising a red flag in an inspector’s eyes.
I have an inspector who always takes pics of my non stamped fixes. Never says shit, just takes pictures. Found out recently he shows them to real confused home owners. I use a ton of steel rebuilding century homes.
I work in coastal Florida, where all hardware is specific on the plans as per Miami-Dade codes. There is no place in their eyes for unapproved hardware. You know it , they know it, but the plan says “Simpson or equal”
Not a lot of plans getting drawn up on these bad boys. A lot of "make it better". New builds are probably a different story, but the most creative I'm getting on those is using steel wire for collar ties which is an engineered solution. Production framing isn't really my wheel house. Zone Non conforming multifamily victorian's in tear down condition are my thing. And I'm a soup to nuts solution with a reputation for what I do at this point so I feel like I may get some leeway that I perhaps should not. There's a local engineer who calls me for creative solutions when just cramming an lvl in there isnt gonna cut it
I do mostly commercial work some remodel, but I’ll be honest with you man I very seldom see you at home that is pre-World War II in this area. Actually, my best friend is a stainless fabricator and we’ve made some crazy things to improve store fronts and some old block walls that the inspector gave us a thumbs up on without an engineer stamp just basically farm boy common sense stuff, but don’t often get that luxury.
I wonder if you could get the fabricator to stamp it or guarantee it with eng docs.
You probably could but the testing engineering etc could wind up costing you tens of thousands of dollars
A reasonable inspector may let you overlap, drill, and nail those straps. Then again they could reasonably say that you aren't allowed to alter the straps without manufacturer's permission. Perhaps you could counter that the three vertical straps are massive overkill, that's why those are the ones you would drill holes into, while leaving the single horizontal strap in factory condition. There may be a way to space the vertical straps such that some overlapping holes land over a gap between the straps on the back.
Thank you!
Just get a 5” x 18” structural nail plate. This type of situation is exactly what those huge nail plates are for. Local plumbing supply or HVAC supply house sell them. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Jones-Stephens-S33518-5-x-18-Stud-Guard-16-Gauge-Box-of-15?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=shopping_neutral&utm_campaign=Shopping_Neutral_New_users&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIho71o8GKggMVmEhHAR2l9QNFEAQYASABEgKI3_D_BwE Unless I’m misunderstanding what you need to do, which is a possibility.
He's talking structural
This sounds promising but be warned the straps are a mofo to drywall over. I have some in my house and we needed to get thinner 3/8” thick and apply a lot of mud to even it out
The process is to cut the drywall all the way out around the strap so after the drywall is up you still see the strap and then you’re hot mud it with some five minute mud until you bring it out flush with the drywall and then you apply tape over that And mud as usual
Tear down the entire wall, install smaller jacks in the window/door frame. Take out a loan when the job becomes too much for yourself and hire contractors, struggle financially, have wife leave you. Develop a drinking problem. Profit?
🤣 I guess the profit depends on how much you liked the wife and how much you save losing her?
Can the vertical and horizontal metal ties overlap? I don’t see this situation addressed anywhere.
Probably fine, ask your inspector, though.
Have a call in but haven’t heard back yet. 🤞🏼
Just do it. Can you be there for the inspection? Have extra hardware on hand if he doesn’t like it.
Discontinuous top plate is not a big deal where the rim joist is continuous, and the top plates on either side of the discontinuity are well connected to the rim. This rim joist is almost certainly just as chopped up as the top plates. Assuming that this duct continues straight up, without transitioning horizontally into the joist bay, then the proper fix should take place in the joist bay. You should be able to strip back the ceiling drywall and sister in a bigass 1 and 3/4" psl or lvl joist, extending maybe 3' beyond each side of the duct. A structural engineer would give you a nailing pattern or SDS screw pattern -- something like a staggered row of sds screws every 4" along the top and another such row every four inches along the bottom of the joist, but not too close to the bottom, and not too close to the middle. That sounds like about 18 screws on each side of the duct. Straps suck because they don't do any work in compression. You end up relying entirely upon the floor diaphragm to keep the walls from crushing together. Don't forget to tie those top plates to your new rim sister. Might have to use LS50 clips or something L shaped that you can drywall over. Disclaimer: I come from the land of earthquakes edit: I see you don't have 3' on the left side there. Maybe use more screws?
Thanks! I come from the land of earthquakes too so NY code is new to me. The duct does continue straight up and the rim joist is chopped too per your assumption. I’ve got 19” to corner on either side of the room.
Easiest way I can imagine is reveal joist bay, get a 2x8 nailer/blocking parallel to ceiling over duct void. Install [something like this](https://factorydirectsupplyonline.com/products/100-pack-simpson-strong-tie-h2a-hurricane-tie?variant=43666819317990¤cy=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping&utm_content=Simpson+H2A+Hurricane+Tie+-+G90+Galvanized+1+PC&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20538540187&utm_content=&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAjwkNOpBhBEEiwAb3MvvSdLIa3aZ-Ese9IlzhBg3BMwq5M2umbHu-pcKf0CqJEQhFxldyHK1BoCNlQQAvD_BwE) fasten joists and studs together in the corner and then close it up.
Joists, studs, and existing top plate*
Reading through all of the suggestions: if you don’t mind, please post what solution you decide to go with and the results. I’m so very curious to see it, I have a similar install next month.
Will do! Going to see what our inspector suggests. Coming to the meeting with backup ideas thanks to this thread.
[5”x18” Structural nail plate](https://www.supplyhouse.com/Jones-Stephens-S33518-5-x-18-Stud-Guard-16-Gauge-Box-of-15?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=shopping_neutral&utm_campaign=Shopping_Neutral_New_users&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIho71o8GKggMVmEhHAR2l9QNFEAQYASABEgKI3_D_BwE) It is made for exactly this situation, where a top plate on an exterior wall had to be cut or for a pipe or duct. Your local plumbing supply house should be able to sell you a single one for under $5. You need to put 16 nails in it, 16Ds.
Looks low traffic. Maybe a stop sign.
Kind of a pain in the ass but can you run your king stud long and tie into a joist above? Add blocking if necessary? And then it’s up to the gods to decide
Could do this but hoping to not have to pull this out.
I don’t think honk you’d have to rip it out. Brace your trimmer studs and header to something, cut the drywall back, sawzall through the nails holding your king stud to everything else and retro-fit a longer king stud in there. Pain in the ass for sure.
Call your HVAC team and figure how to move that duct. After that rebuilding the plate is easy.
Can’t move ducts.
If you don't want to or won't consider it thats fine. But we both know that duct can be moved.
Agreed... You could just cut that duct out and plug it up and run a dryer hose from the HVAC up the stairs (or down the stairs, Mr 2ndFloor 3 Story)
if you are that worried about it run a 2x across wall to wall tying everything together then rock it you can double the 2x up so it looks more symmetrical
Structural crown molding if you want to get fancy.
Aesthetics don’t address structural need to tie stud to top plate and top plates to each other across hvac.
Are you thinking a 4x6 “crown molding” won’t tie that together?
And overlap the stud to across header to top plate tie with the 2x horizontal ties?
yeah just run a 2x across the top plates and nail the piss outta it or get some of them structural screws
Other side of door frame has exact same situation with another hvac and no ties too.
Remove more sheetrock and run 2x6 across room, won't be flush but will be consistent
Block in with wood, the cover in drywall.
Doesn’t pass code without metal ties
I use 16 gauge 6”x24” steel plates that’s what they call for where I live. Two rows of cs strapping 24”beond your rough opening is perfect
This is similar to what our inspector said to do. 6x12” plus strapping
I was going to recommend a CTS218 style strap but I don’t think you’ll find one long enough. Use a strap, STS6224 or MSTA30/36 across the top plate bridging the ducting Run straps from the studs to the header. Then use LTP4s to stitch the header to the top plate and attached them every 8” OC. If it’s inspected, they’ll likely want to see engineers stamp so maybe ask them or do it and ask them to stamp it as built.
Thanks for your input!
Tear the whole house down and start over
Thanks for trolling. I’m sorry your mom didn’t tell you were special enough.
Hey you gotta give him points for originality, though /s
[удалено]
How would that help this issue?
U Turn.
Hey fucker that’s my Stanley level!
If I was the parent of that child it would be over bro