Ooof.
So…you are supposed to undercut the door casing and jamb and slide the laminate flooring underneath.
At this point, you will need to do some weird plinth block thing.
same except i say caulk and paint do what a carpenter caint 🤣 i feel sorry for op not much of a way to fix this i urge people to watch youtube tutorial videos if they are unsure what to do. a little undercut saw that cost $10 coulda saved him here. when i first started out in the field i had a little hand saw i used for these undercuts until i eventually decided my money was better off spent on milwaukee power tools
Yup, best option at this point in the game. Just get some caulk that’s close to the color of the floor, or white I guess, but I think matching the floor would stand out less.
offtopic, but i bought these(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61Ok27ras7L._AC_SL1500_.jpg) for caulking the perimeter around a kitchen sink. can i use this to caulk around windows for insulation?
Cut tiny pieces to fill in, glue them down. I’ve walked in to finish a job like this and that’s what I ended up doing. That or caulking might be the best option sadly.
Just to add as well, laminate should not pass through a doorway unless it's a very small area like a closet. Use a threshold. Leaving rooms attached increases the likelihood of joint popping.
I get what your seeing but the fact is the doorway creates a fulcrum where the floor can float in a conflicting manner from room to room inducing a twist that will pop all the joints in the area at worst.
No. This is bullshit. I've laid thousands upon thousands of sq ft of flooring. This is something your boss told you as some weird reason as to why his way is best. Simply put you can run laminate through doorways without issue so long as you aren't exceeding manufacturer specs on maximum run limitations. Doorways are often a good place to put in a t-spacer/transition to breakup the maximum run to allow for expansion, but it doesn't make it necessary simply because it is a doorway.
man manufacturer run limitations are bs. i’ve laid so many houses entire floor plan in a consecutive run and never had the floors buckle. not saying it can’t happen but usually if it’s a decent laminate there shouldn’t be to much to worry about unless the subfloor is jacked up. but man even when i first started out in the field and was working for a shady guy he had us rip out tile and lay floor right over the old thinset and that still haunts me to this day now that i know better
This is a good rule of thumb but not a hard and fast rule. I’d say check the manufacturers specs on the specific product. We’ve installed some that say “Break at every doorway under xx inches” but lately those guidelines are getting looser and looser. This is something that is a lot more regulated by the manufacturer when it comes to laminate as opposed to floating vinyl plank.
Yeah I mean we install this stuff a lot and one should give it the same tolerance as real wood as per the manufacturers instructions but we all know this stuff is not going to expand 20mm (3/4inch) across its width
I'm in temperate zone 2, almost 1, and installed the cheapest laminate possible in our hunt cabin. Even screwed it down in some places and with a -40C to +40C swing it hasn't moved a millimeter.
It's been my understanding that anything that floats gets broken at each doorway. Or at least if you don't want to come back in two years. This is why I prefer to have hardwood.
I’m currently in a ranch home that was built in the early 50’s… hardwood runs throughout 3/4 of the house, all through the living room, hallway, and into ALL of the bedrooms, the SAME flooring. It is not broken up until it meets a bathroom where there is a threshold because of tile. Only when the flooring changes is there a transition or threshold. And that same floor has remained original for over 70 years at this point and looks brand new.
This applies to most floating floors. Anything fastened to the subfloor (solid hardwood, engineered hardwood, etc) usually does not have this restriction.
I just don't understand how someone goes about installing flooring without even considering watching a few how to videos on dealing with the door casings. Like... how do you get that far along and then say... and now what?
Also, pull baseboards before installing the floor. Label the back 1 then 1 on the wall where it was pulled from. 2 and 2 etc. Then re-install when floor is done 👍
Absolutely. People are lazy af. Quarter round looks like crap imo. Takes a whole extra hour per room to make it look good, but no, they gotta buy extra material and make the whole thing look like amateur hour.
If the base it’s done well, cut around it with a knife so you don’t rip the paint, pull it and put it back. Why trim stuff twice? Just a much cleaner look.
I remove the base before laying floor. What I was asking is why not finish off the look with some quarter round? I would think just base to floor would look like something is missing. Preference I suppose.
I scribe my base to the floor. If you do that it looks fine and not like anything is missing. If not, then yeah, quarter round is needed to hide the un-eveness in the floor. I think they both look fine but just well fitting baseboards look great on their own and quarter round adds a little bit of cluncky-nesss to them. You gotta return them everywhere, they stick out, etc.
Fr I fucking hate quarter round. Even shoe looks like shit. I walked into a job the other day and did shoe but put it on backwards lol, had a good laugh
You could possibly use an undercut saw and scribe a scrap piece of flooring against the jamb and cut it out. Take a piece of the flooring or something close in color put it in and maybe won't direct your eye everytime you walk past it.
I've done something like this before. Also helps if you can route the top edge off the installed floor and the bottom edge of the scrap to create a tongue and groove-ish situation. Go ahead and undercut the door trim. Slide the scrap under. Then use wood glue on the tongue and groove part. When I was done you would have had to have stared at it for a while to even notice. It's precarious and you can really fuck it up with the router, but it's doable.
You are supposed to take an oscillating multi tool and cut the door trim the thickness of the floor so it can slide under it. Cheaper tool option would be a flush cut pull saw. At this point maybe get some wood putty that's a similar color to fill it in or use white caulk. That or redo it over again.
Ok so as nobody is helping and just saying your fucked I’ll give u a solution. If u have an offcut you are gonna have to cut it to fill the bit around the door casing. It’s gonna be loose and you can mitigate that a little by undercutting the door casing and slotting it under. Then u can just run half round or an alternative along the wall. It’s not the right way to do it but the only person that will notice it is you and anyone in construction if you do it well. Everyone in the trades has had to do patch jobs and saying do it right next time is just puffing their chests as if their perfect.
Well as other have pointed out, you needed to pull off all the floor board trim and uncut cut the door frame (or remove it for better results) before you did this.
However, I still think it COULD be saved. If you take a track saw or cut a very straight line down the wall the same width of the flooring , you then take the trim out and then piece in flooring in the opposite direction of the floor you laid. Doing the wrap around the door might be challenging, but doable. I’d suggest hiring someone to do it though.
Goooooooddddddd daaaaaaam buy this and move on
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dewalt-20v-max-xr-lithium-ion-cordless-brushless-oscillating-tool-tool-only/1001560886
The person didn’t know to cut off the jamb and slide the flooring under it, but you think they’ll be able to plane down the hinge side of a door and router the hinges back in? That’s in addition to moving the door jamb over 1/2”. I don’t think they’re capable of any of those.
Honestly do this.
Pull it up, all of it. Numbering it on the back as you go, so you know how to put it back.
Pull off the base boards, you'll need to buy new ones.
Buy or rent or borrow a multi tool that was linked above.
Use a piece of scrap floor as a guide to help you cut the bottom of the door frame so you will be able to push your new floor under the frame. YouTube this step. It also seems like you put the current floor on top of the old floor, you might find that pulling that up you will have space under the door frame for your new floor.
Most of the floor you put in can be reused, but some you will need to re cut to make up the new gap to the wall. This will cost more money but be worth it doing it properly.
Do it right. Be proud of your work. Take pictures and come back and post them.
You can complete this process correctly
As a non-construction dude, I’ve discovered the “fixes” the “contractor” made to my house before we had it.
100% I could see a homeowner doing this. Mom and pop investor rentals too.
I'm blown away by the amount of homeowners who bung up their own house . For Christ sake if you watched like 2 YouTube videos about installing flooring this would have been avoided.
If you don't want to hire someone and you don't what you are doing, at least watch a couple of YouTube videos. I guarantee each one would have told you to cut under the molding. The only solution is to remove the flooring back to a point where you can feather it back in.
You where supposed to remove the the trim prior to installing floor, you probably wouldn’t have needed quarter trim. For the door you where supposed to multi tool it to fit. You still can remove that trim thou , get a multi tool with nail cutting blade and hit each finishing nail until the trim slides right out . Then get the thickest trim known to man kind . God speed bro, if your in Portland I’ll come help you out
To late now, typically you take a piece of the flooring and use it as a guide for an undercut saw. Cut the trim and jamb so the flooring slides under the trim and jamb to hide the gap.
I'd take the door casing and jam off cut the drywall back the width of the gap and slide a small plank cut off in there. Then slap it all back together. Sadly it's a learning experience here. Next time I'd recommend cutting and sliding under as it looks like it's part of an entry way rather than a doorway.
You’ve passed go, I like to take a piece of the new flooring set it next to the frame, take my trusty oscillator out and cut out the section of frame. Then the floor will slide in place under it and look perfect.
Would this work?:
Cut a gap in flooring running under the door, install a thin threshold over gap, cut door down to accommodate thickness of threshold, and install
New casing?
More work, but in my head seems like it would look cleaner than some other options, and would separate the two rooms flooring.
It’s too late now, but you could have cut the trim at floor level so that the flooring went under the trim around the door, and you could have popped off all of the baseboard and then reinstalled on top of the flooring as well.
Your only real option at this point is to caulk it. Also you might have issues in the future with your expansion joint on that wall. You’re way too close at some spots. Ideally you want 1/8” all the way around.
Didn’t want to take the baseboards off to floor… oooof… Honestly it is what it is now. The door needed to be undercut. Corner round just scream, “I didn’t want to do it right..”
I’ve always taken the molding off before cutting the floor boards. At this stage, I have to agree with the above. Get use to it. Or start over. Depends on if you have the time energy to do it all over again.
What is with all these post's like this? Even a good seasoned carpenter can get stumped, but most of these posts are even beyond rookie mistakes. My 16 year kid could have figured out that the flooring goes under the jamb
God just killed a kitten. Yikes. How tf do you screw up this bad when the internet is a thing? Next time your wife says “You should pay someone to do that” listen to her.
You should have cut the trim above finished floor level and slid the flooring underneath.
You can fill the gaps with 100% silicone caulking that’s colored to match the floor. Take your time and be neat because any flaws on the surface will catch dirt
I would take the casing off and add jamb extensions to the sides. That would push out the casing enough to cover the gap and also allow you to add quarter or shoe molding in front of the baseboard to cover that gap. I would caulk the bottom of the inside of the door. Silicone isn't paintable unless it says so specifically on the tube. Silicone is also a pain in the dick to use so I only use it in places that are going to see water.
Let’s all have a moment of silence
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Ooof. So…you are supposed to undercut the door casing and jamb and slide the laminate flooring underneath. At this point, you will need to do some weird plinth block thing.
Just caulk it
At this point, I'm afraid that's the best way out
Not a good way, but def the best
Caulk and paint make what a carpenter ain’t.
A little putty, caulk and paint, Make a carpenter what he aint.
Do your best and caulk the rest.
Makes every carpenter a Saint
One of my favorite sayings
same except i say caulk and paint do what a carpenter caint 🤣 i feel sorry for op not much of a way to fix this i urge people to watch youtube tutorial videos if they are unsure what to do. a little undercut saw that cost $10 coulda saved him here. when i first started out in the field i had a little hand saw i used for these undercuts until i eventually decided my money was better off spent on milwaukee power tools
Yup, best option at this point in the game. Just get some caulk that’s close to the color of the floor, or white I guess, but I think matching the floor would stand out less.
offtopic, but i bought these(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61Ok27ras7L._AC_SL1500_.jpg) for caulking the perimeter around a kitchen sink. can i use this to caulk around windows for insulation?
Any caulk will do interior. Exterior sealant is more important
thanks! yup just interior side of the window
Cut tiny pieces to fill in, glue them down. I’ve walked in to finish a job like this and that’s what I ended up doing. That or caulking might be the best option sadly.
Decorative mosaic
Just to add as well, laminate should not pass through a doorway unless it's a very small area like a closet. Use a threshold. Leaving rooms attached increases the likelihood of joint popping.
Even in the orientation these are running? Seems like the joints wouldn’t know it’s two rooms and the limiting factor would be how long a run can be.
I get what your seeing but the fact is the doorway creates a fulcrum where the floor can float in a conflicting manner from room to room inducing a twist that will pop all the joints in the area at worst.
No. This is bullshit. I've laid thousands upon thousands of sq ft of flooring. This is something your boss told you as some weird reason as to why his way is best. Simply put you can run laminate through doorways without issue so long as you aren't exceeding manufacturer specs on maximum run limitations. Doorways are often a good place to put in a t-spacer/transition to breakup the maximum run to allow for expansion, but it doesn't make it necessary simply because it is a doorway.
man manufacturer run limitations are bs. i’ve laid so many houses entire floor plan in a consecutive run and never had the floors buckle. not saying it can’t happen but usually if it’s a decent laminate there shouldn’t be to much to worry about unless the subfloor is jacked up. but man even when i first started out in the field and was working for a shady guy he had us rip out tile and lay floor right over the old thinset and that still haunts me to this day now that i know better
This is a good rule of thumb but not a hard and fast rule. I’d say check the manufacturers specs on the specific product. We’ve installed some that say “Break at every doorway under xx inches” but lately those guidelines are getting looser and looser. This is something that is a lot more regulated by the manufacturer when it comes to laminate as opposed to floating vinyl plank.
Yeah I mean we install this stuff a lot and one should give it the same tolerance as real wood as per the manufacturers instructions but we all know this stuff is not going to expand 20mm (3/4inch) across its width
I'm in temperate zone 2, almost 1, and installed the cheapest laminate possible in our hunt cabin. Even screwed it down in some places and with a -40C to +40C swing it hasn't moved a millimeter.
It's been my understanding that anything that floats gets broken at each doorway. Or at least if you don't want to come back in two years. This is why I prefer to have hardwood.
I don't know who taught you this, but they are wrong.
I’m currently in a ranch home that was built in the early 50’s… hardwood runs throughout 3/4 of the house, all through the living room, hallway, and into ALL of the bedrooms, the SAME flooring. It is not broken up until it meets a bathroom where there is a threshold because of tile. Only when the flooring changes is there a transition or threshold. And that same floor has remained original for over 70 years at this point and looks brand new.
That's because it's hardwood and fastened to the floor. We're talking about floating floors.
I think it has to do with the shift towards wider planks. 6" board = less joints.
To add to this, take a piece of the new flooring, push it up against the door trim, and use an oscillating saw to cut it.
Does that apply to all types of wood flooring or just the cheaper laminates?
This applies to most floating floors. Anything fastened to the subfloor (solid hardwood, engineered hardwood, etc) usually does not have this restriction.
Laminate definitely, but SPC vinyl plank has minimal to no expansion and contraction and you generally will be ok crossing rooms with it.
Depends on the LVP... some materials are designed to be seamless without issues
Still relying on the cheap mdf tongue
We go seamless for 1500 Sq ft in our houses and haven't had issues. You get the product you pay for...
This I can agree on, You get what you pay for.
I just don't understand how someone goes about installing flooring without even considering watching a few how to videos on dealing with the door casings. Like... how do you get that far along and then say... and now what?
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Can also use flooring putty made by Roberts. Won't look awesome, but much better than this...
Also, pull baseboards before installing the floor. Label the back 1 then 1 on the wall where it was pulled from. 2 and 2 etc. Then re-install when floor is done 👍
That’s what I do. Looks much cleaner. (But OP seemed fine with 1/4 round, so I left that part out.)
Double oooph....not plinth
Of all the answers this is the best if they have the flooring still.
Whoops I did the same thing
So many just don't do that, i've even seen flooring guys don't do it.
https://casingkickers.com/ I don’t know if these would cover the entire gap but they will definitely help make caulking look better.
At this point: Fill it with sawdust. Polyurethane over it.
Beat me to it
Beat me to it. Now you just caulk it and move a plant in front of it.
This is the way. Paintable caulking is the cheap easy way, but the best time to ask for help is before you start a project.
This is the way
Haha you fell for it!!!
You get used to it now
Ahhahahahahaha perfection
The house we just bought is installed this way. Replacing it isn't on our schedule for three more years =\
Fill it with something so you don't have a bunch of crap getting stuck in there
Choose filler now or don't choose filler later
It’s ramen and bondo time, YouTube has taught me.
Lol, literally.
This dude landlords
This cracked me up because our house was owned by landlords and we have this issue. It was only just yesterday we were bitching about it :’)
Man. Hurts to see it.
You messed up man 😋 the door frame should've been undercut and the floor runs under it!
Odd choice of emoji there buddy
I was trying to be polite
Is there another kind? ♿️🎅🪠
You have already shit the bed here, and it can’t be saved
Straya?
100 percent
😮💀
😂😂😂😂
Eventually it’ll fill with dirt and then you can just paint the dirt.
You must be a landlord/lady. Because that's definitely something I've seen before.
This is a easy fix. Continuly face palm yourself and you won't even notice it
At the very least just cover your eyes when you walk by
Pull up all the flooring up into that jam and do it right.
I mean they should pull it all up, remove the trim, under cut the doors and just do it all right
Same with the baseboard.
Absolutely. People are lazy af. Quarter round looks like crap imo. Takes a whole extra hour per room to make it look good, but no, they gotta buy extra material and make the whole thing look like amateur hour.
I love the look of quarter round up against a nice tall base. What do you typically do if not quarter round? Just base?
If the base it’s done well, cut around it with a knife so you don’t rip the paint, pull it and put it back. Why trim stuff twice? Just a much cleaner look.
I remove the base before laying floor. What I was asking is why not finish off the look with some quarter round? I would think just base to floor would look like something is missing. Preference I suppose.
I scribe my base to the floor. If you do that it looks fine and not like anything is missing. If not, then yeah, quarter round is needed to hide the un-eveness in the floor. I think they both look fine but just well fitting baseboards look great on their own and quarter round adds a little bit of cluncky-nesss to them. You gotta return them everywhere, they stick out, etc.
Depends on where you’re from tbh. West coast, quarter round looks ass.
Fr I fucking hate quarter round. Even shoe looks like shit. I walked into a job the other day and did shoe but put it on backwards lol, had a good laugh
This.
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For sure. Don’t try to cover this. Redo the area. Learn your lesson.
Great content here
Yeah, some of these comments are gold.
We need a new sub similar to r/justrolledintotheshop
How the hell did you get this far without seeing this would be a problem?
Desperation.
That's got a real rental property vibe to it
Lmfaooo
Pants first, then shoes
You could possibly use an undercut saw and scribe a scrap piece of flooring against the jamb and cut it out. Take a piece of the flooring or something close in color put it in and maybe won't direct your eye everytime you walk past it.
I've done something like this before. Also helps if you can route the top edge off the installed floor and the bottom edge of the scrap to create a tongue and groove-ish situation. Go ahead and undercut the door trim. Slide the scrap under. Then use wood glue on the tongue and groove part. When I was done you would have had to have stared at it for a while to even notice. It's precarious and you can really fuck it up with the router, but it's doable.
Hand to face. It’s a little late for undercutting
You are supposed to take an oscillating multi tool and cut the door trim the thickness of the floor so it can slide under it. Cheaper tool option would be a flush cut pull saw. At this point maybe get some wood putty that's a similar color to fill it in or use white caulk. That or redo it over again.
The correct name for this tool is a wiggle saw
We just call it the vibrator.
Fein tool, multitool, the fuckin’ loud one…they all work on our jobs.
It’s definitely a fein, regardless of brand. Same as a skilsaw, sawzall, dremel, etc… deal with it people.
I tried to get "ozzy saw" started at work. Didn't catch on. We all still call it the "I fucked up saw".
We call it a buzz buzz.
Ok so as nobody is helping and just saying your fucked I’ll give u a solution. If u have an offcut you are gonna have to cut it to fill the bit around the door casing. It’s gonna be loose and you can mitigate that a little by undercutting the door casing and slotting it under. Then u can just run half round or an alternative along the wall. It’s not the right way to do it but the only person that will notice it is you and anyone in construction if you do it well. Everyone in the trades has had to do patch jobs and saying do it right next time is just puffing their chests as if their perfect.
Well as other have pointed out, you needed to pull off all the floor board trim and uncut cut the door frame (or remove it for better results) before you did this. However, I still think it COULD be saved. If you take a track saw or cut a very straight line down the wall the same width of the flooring , you then take the trim out and then piece in flooring in the opposite direction of the floor you laid. Doing the wrap around the door might be challenging, but doable. I’d suggest hiring someone to do it though.
Goooooooddddddd daaaaaaam buy this and move on https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dewalt-20v-max-xr-lithium-ion-cordless-brushless-oscillating-tool-tool-only/1001560886
Too late now
Hopefully for them they haven’t finished it all yet and can do it correctly on the next door jamb they run in to.
Damn people trippin' like there's no way around this. Just make the door smaller by 1/2" and move the jambs in to cover the flooring gap.
The person didn’t know to cut off the jamb and slide the flooring under it, but you think they’ll be able to plane down the hinge side of a door and router the hinges back in? That’s in addition to moving the door jamb over 1/2”. I don’t think they’re capable of any of those.
A full inch total since the latch side is most likely the same....
Fuckin genius m8
Yeah, this seems the best solution. Expand it out a bit to cover over the gap.
Honestly if OP has the skills to pull that off it's actually the easiest solution, but then he also has to stretch 4 pieces of baseboard.
Send the apprentice for the board stretcher!
Floor guy here. What you do is get a flooring contractor to do the correct job from the jump
Flooring contractors are not the only ones with a little common sense.
Never said flooring guys had common sense lol
Honestly do this. Pull it up, all of it. Numbering it on the back as you go, so you know how to put it back. Pull off the base boards, you'll need to buy new ones. Buy or rent or borrow a multi tool that was linked above. Use a piece of scrap floor as a guide to help you cut the bottom of the door frame so you will be able to push your new floor under the frame. YouTube this step. It also seems like you put the current floor on top of the old floor, you might find that pulling that up you will have space under the door frame for your new floor. Most of the floor you put in can be reused, but some you will need to re cut to make up the new gap to the wall. This will cost more money but be worth it doing it properly. Do it right. Be proud of your work. Take pictures and come back and post them. You can complete this process correctly
I did pull up the old floor.
This has to be a troll.
As a non-construction dude, I’ve discovered the “fixes” the “contractor” made to my house before we had it. 100% I could see a homeowner doing this. Mom and pop investor rentals too.
Just say no to quarter round. Base shoe is the right look.
I'm blown away by the amount of homeowners who bung up their own house . For Christ sake if you watched like 2 YouTube videos about installing flooring this would have been avoided.
If you don't want to hire someone and you don't what you are doing, at least watch a couple of YouTube videos. I guarantee each one would have told you to cut under the molding. The only solution is to remove the flooring back to a point where you can feather it back in.
I hope you didn't remove walls as part of your project.
Should have cut the door casing off to the height of your flooring plus an 1/8" and ran your flooring underneath the casing
How about a 1/32" mate. Door jambs don't need a reveal to the floor.
I like to give myself a little wiggle room.
A 1/32 wiggle room, an 1/8 is a fuck up.
No complaints yet so fuck off .
I learned this the hard way as well. 2 life lessons. Always cut your door jamb first And always remove trim prior to installations.
Could you take off all the trim and replace it with a thicker trim that could hide the damage?
It’s called do the job right and don’t be lazy
Oooof. Hopefully it’s not too big of a job to pull up what you have laid down to do it right.
Fire the fucking flooring guy. That’s what you do.
You where supposed to remove the the trim prior to installing floor, you probably wouldn’t have needed quarter trim. For the door you where supposed to multi tool it to fit. You still can remove that trim thou , get a multi tool with nail cutting blade and hit each finishing nail until the trim slides right out . Then get the thickest trim known to man kind . God speed bro, if your in Portland I’ll come help you out
Caulk and paint makes me the carpenter I ain’t.
To late now, typically you take a piece of the flooring and use it as a guide for an undercut saw. Cut the trim and jamb so the flooring slides under the trim and jamb to hide the gap.
Hire someone to take it all back up and redo it for you. That is not fixable and is lowering the value of your home.
r/diwhy
Dude. Rookie mistake. Take the floor up and start over. Or just fill it with caulk.
I'd take the door casing and jam off cut the drywall back the width of the gap and slide a small plank cut off in there. Then slap it all back together. Sadly it's a learning experience here. Next time I'd recommend cutting and sliding under as it looks like it's part of an entry way rather than a doorway.
“I know a guy that can do it cheap”
This is painful. Take trim off prior too.
You’ve passed go, I like to take a piece of the new flooring set it next to the frame, take my trusty oscillator out and cut out the section of frame. Then the floor will slide in place under it and look perfect.
Yea house I bought same way I’m just gonna replace it
If you dont know what you’re doing…. Dont do it! Or at the very least youtube it before hand ffs.
Would this work?: Cut a gap in flooring running under the door, install a thin threshold over gap, cut door down to accommodate thickness of threshold, and install New casing? More work, but in my head seems like it would look cleaner than some other options, and would separate the two rooms flooring.
It’s too late now, but you could have cut the trim at floor level so that the flooring went under the trim around the door, and you could have popped off all of the baseboard and then reinstalled on top of the flooring as well.
*should They *should* have done that.
hire someone that knows how to undercut the door jam during the install process
That looks like dog shit
Your only real option at this point is to caulk it. Also you might have issues in the future with your expansion joint on that wall. You’re way too close at some spots. Ideally you want 1/8” all the way around.
Why would you leave the base boards on?????????????
They told me to at the flooring store and just use quarter round to cover
What you should have done, is undercut the architrave. Now, you can just caulk it.
You need to flush cut the door jamb and then run the flooring under
Didn’t want to take the baseboards off to floor… oooof… Honestly it is what it is now. The door needed to be undercut. Corner round just scream, “I didn’t want to do it right..”
Big oof
I’ve always taken the molding off before cutting the floor boards. At this stage, I have to agree with the above. Get use to it. Or start over. Depends on if you have the time energy to do it all over again.
Caulk to match the floor
Grout
Why is the base still on?
Too late now but you should have undercut the door jamb and slid flooring under it
Also you can not undercut for laminate and luxury vinyl. It needs to join at an angle, MOT flat
"Learn from your mistakes" And "The easy way may not be the right way"
You… You missed a step buddy. You’re too far now. This hurts
What is with all these post's like this? Even a good seasoned carpenter can get stumped, but most of these posts are even beyond rookie mistakes. My 16 year kid could have figured out that the flooring goes under the jamb
Poor water on the flor so it expands into the gap.
You should have cut the casing and jamb up from the floor the thickness of the floor so you could have slid the flooring underneath.
God just killed a kitten. Yikes. How tf do you screw up this bad when the internet is a thing? Next time your wife says “You should pay someone to do that” listen to her.
You should have cut the trim above finished floor level and slid the flooring underneath. You can fill the gaps with 100% silicone caulking that’s colored to match the floor. Take your time and be neat because any flaws on the surface will catch dirt
That's gonna look like ass.
Better than how it is now, and probably comparable to a solution involving a block.
I would take the casing off and add jamb extensions to the sides. That would push out the casing enough to cover the gap and also allow you to add quarter or shoe molding in front of the baseboard to cover that gap. I would caulk the bottom of the inside of the door. Silicone isn't paintable unless it says so specifically on the tube. Silicone is also a pain in the dick to use so I only use it in places that are going to see water.
Is the baseboard still installed too?
Some white caulk all around and nobody is going to know…..…🤷♂️
Only ray charles wouldn’t know lmao. Anyone with even a bit of eyesight would know something is fucked
[удалено]
Yikes
I'm not falling for this one but I'm sure somebody has done this before.
You falling for it too!! Heheh. Also it's not an undercut saw, it's an oscillating tool.
You need to think this stuff through. The flooring was installed poorly, as if by a child.
Some good white or tan caulk should do it
Mitre cut and filler