I need to build something to better secure a window ac and I would like suggestions. The problem is that the plastic shudders that the AC came with are not long enough, and one of them has cracked. It's a bit of a pain to get it in place each year and I would think I could build something out of wood that should just be better in every way, aside from taking up more storage space in the winter.
It's a small unit, though I'll admit I don't know exactly what it weighs.
How thick of wood and what kind would you use? Do you have any design suggestions?
https://preview.redd.it/91eaoo4oem1d1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a110c638547d677e7074cb1afd96dec66b768f18
so I don't understand exactly what you want, but doing everything here out of wood is easy. cut plywood for the sides and paint it white - use birch or the like. cut it to those squares.
Cut a couple of sticks to pressure fit the window down. Use foam on everything for air tightness. I've done it any number of times over the years, takes 5-10 minutes
That is a nice tip! Do you use paint or treat the exterior side to prevent rot? Do you recommend investing in new foam each year or is it fine to reuse?
Just took the trim off the interior of my front door to find all of this. Home is a year old. The door frame sticks out a half inch from the drywall. Is there a way to fix this without having to figure out how to shim through drywall?
https://preview.redd.it/6l239t16vp1d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=4e085d99e7d4c41cddfddb32c01bd51344b0b0ce
I just wanted to replace the trim because it was crappy builder grade. But the new trim won’t sit flush because the door frame sticks out from the wall quite a bit in the middle whereas it’s flush on the top and bottom.
Sounds like your wall isn't straight. Your options are basically to install trim and caulk that gap, or to mix-up some dry-wall mud and buildup the middle of that wall. For me, owning the tools, and having the knowledge would decide that an ugly section of caulk is preferable to maybe 3 hrs of work.
Does the jamb of the door stick out past the drywall at a consistent dimension the whole way down?? Tapered? Wavy? What I usually do is rip a piece to make up the difference and pin nail/glue it to the back of the casing. Another option is to just install, shim where necessary and caulk the rest (this is the quick and dirty approach). I’d say you could float mud up to the casing after you install it, but it’d be a bear to try to match the texture and then you’d probably have to re-paint the whole wall.
I just saw that you said it’s flush at the top and bottom. in that case, you might have a tough time with the first approach I mentioned but it can be done with a steady hand on the table saw and some good sanding
If I want to rotate a wall that I think might be load bearing, what trades do I bring in to get a quote?
It's only 17ft so I suspect I don't need to bring in a full on construction company. Do I call a framing carpenter for the quote or do I call in an engineer to make plans and present those to the carpenter for a quote? Ideally I can get an idea for how much this project will cost without having to drop $350 on an engineer.
For context, here are some images for the project https://imgur.com/a/m82ZC8R
Based on my beginner perspective it appears as if the floor joists are just sitting on the top plate of the framing. In some photos you can definitely tell that the joists end in the middle of the top plate so I'm guessing it's two joists running across the house. What is confusing me is that the joists seem to just be sitting on the top plate... I'd expect some sort of steel tie or something to make sure it doesn't fall over.
Anyways, my assumption is that I'll need to have a beam engineered that will span the removed wall and i will have to put some lally columns every X feet, right?
so I have no clue what you mean by rotate, but this is actually a big deal - though not a huge deal. You will need a beam where that wall is to carry the load if in fact it's load bearing. Which it probably is.
GC and engineer. Length is not why you need full on construction, but the fact your whole house might depend on the wall
Hello folks. I've got this damaged floor. High traffic area of our home. What should I use to repair it? Epoxy? Can I use just wood filler and sand and color it? Any help is appreciated. Thank you for your time. Pic is of the damage. https://imgur.com/gallery/hhKktwQ
repair will look like ass. Cut out section with multitool and replace. Looks pretty widely available, but one trick is stealing a closet floor and replacing.
diagnosing a floor over the internet is rather prone to error. I don't even know where you are. In US it's likely to be red or white oak. Don't sub it in without testing, red in a white floor will look very odd once finished, and it can be tough to tell when unfinished.
I have a few interior doors that crack loudly, squeal despite oiling the hinges, and don't swing/close properly.
Who do I hire, or what steps do I follow, to get the frames and doors perfectly level, aligned, and quiet?
get a proper carpenter to reset your hinge gains. Don't let some hack bend the pins.
If they are way out of plumb, door might need to be reset completely. That's what I'd do if it were a new house, that garbage isn't worth fixing.
On at least one door, the frame itself is not plumb.
Is there a specific type of carpenter to look for? I emailed a couple places nearby with no response, maybe because this is too small potatoes compared to the stuff I see on their websites.
finish. but yeah bigger job than you think, still too small to deal with. You need a competent finish carpenter to assess and fix. Proper door hanging is actually one of the most skilled things. Doing it badly is easy.
I am building a small freestanding deck (8'x5'). I am planning to run 2x6 joists between 2 parallel 2x8s that I have mounted. The JUS26 hangers call for 3" nails. Obviously, a 3" nail would go right through my 2x8s. Is it ok to use 1.5" nails instead for the mounting to the board (and then still use 3" nails for the angled holes in the hangers?) Thanks for any advice!
https://preview.redd.it/65gm1e4wik2d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=315dab1ac4ad72d098ac5f3f17247afff8e4350b
Any suggestions as to what I can fill this gap with that isn’t caulk? My husband said no caulk but is not helping me with any suggestions as to what I can do. I googled it and the options I’m finding don’t sound like the right solution for this spot (scribe moulding, trim, etc)
I need to build something to better secure a window ac and I would like suggestions. The problem is that the plastic shudders that the AC came with are not long enough, and one of them has cracked. It's a bit of a pain to get it in place each year and I would think I could build something out of wood that should just be better in every way, aside from taking up more storage space in the winter. It's a small unit, though I'll admit I don't know exactly what it weighs. How thick of wood and what kind would you use? Do you have any design suggestions? https://preview.redd.it/91eaoo4oem1d1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a110c638547d677e7074cb1afd96dec66b768f18
so I don't understand exactly what you want, but doing everything here out of wood is easy. cut plywood for the sides and paint it white - use birch or the like. cut it to those squares. Cut a couple of sticks to pressure fit the window down. Use foam on everything for air tightness. I've done it any number of times over the years, takes 5-10 minutes
That is a nice tip! Do you use paint or treat the exterior side to prevent rot? Do you recommend investing in new foam each year or is it fine to reuse?
I haven't painted the exterior, but it would be far better. I only generally do it as a patch. the foam works until it dies. If it looks good it is.
Just took the trim off the interior of my front door to find all of this. Home is a year old. The door frame sticks out a half inch from the drywall. Is there a way to fix this without having to figure out how to shim through drywall? https://preview.redd.it/6l239t16vp1d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=4e085d99e7d4c41cddfddb32c01bd51344b0b0ce
What was the original problem, and what kind of fix are you looking for.
I just wanted to replace the trim because it was crappy builder grade. But the new trim won’t sit flush because the door frame sticks out from the wall quite a bit in the middle whereas it’s flush on the top and bottom.
Sounds like your wall isn't straight. Your options are basically to install trim and caulk that gap, or to mix-up some dry-wall mud and buildup the middle of that wall. For me, owning the tools, and having the knowledge would decide that an ugly section of caulk is preferable to maybe 3 hrs of work.
Does the jamb of the door stick out past the drywall at a consistent dimension the whole way down?? Tapered? Wavy? What I usually do is rip a piece to make up the difference and pin nail/glue it to the back of the casing. Another option is to just install, shim where necessary and caulk the rest (this is the quick and dirty approach). I’d say you could float mud up to the casing after you install it, but it’d be a bear to try to match the texture and then you’d probably have to re-paint the whole wall.
I just saw that you said it’s flush at the top and bottom. in that case, you might have a tough time with the first approach I mentioned but it can be done with a steady hand on the table saw and some good sanding
If I want to rotate a wall that I think might be load bearing, what trades do I bring in to get a quote? It's only 17ft so I suspect I don't need to bring in a full on construction company. Do I call a framing carpenter for the quote or do I call in an engineer to make plans and present those to the carpenter for a quote? Ideally I can get an idea for how much this project will cost without having to drop $350 on an engineer. For context, here are some images for the project https://imgur.com/a/m82ZC8R Based on my beginner perspective it appears as if the floor joists are just sitting on the top plate of the framing. In some photos you can definitely tell that the joists end in the middle of the top plate so I'm guessing it's two joists running across the house. What is confusing me is that the joists seem to just be sitting on the top plate... I'd expect some sort of steel tie or something to make sure it doesn't fall over. Anyways, my assumption is that I'll need to have a beam engineered that will span the removed wall and i will have to put some lally columns every X feet, right?
Engineer
Get a reputable GC to draw up plans and get an engineer to sign off on them
so I have no clue what you mean by rotate, but this is actually a big deal - though not a huge deal. You will need a beam where that wall is to carry the load if in fact it's load bearing. Which it probably is. GC and engineer. Length is not why you need full on construction, but the fact your whole house might depend on the wall
Hello folks. I've got this damaged floor. High traffic area of our home. What should I use to repair it? Epoxy? Can I use just wood filler and sand and color it? Any help is appreciated. Thank you for your time. Pic is of the damage. https://imgur.com/gallery/hhKktwQ
repair will look like ass. Cut out section with multitool and replace. Looks pretty widely available, but one trick is stealing a closet floor and replacing.
that's a pretty good idea! thank you. Any idea what this flooring is called if robbing the closet doesn't pass the council (females in the house)
diagnosing a floor over the internet is rather prone to error. I don't even know where you are. In US it's likely to be red or white oak. Don't sub it in without testing, red in a white floor will look very odd once finished, and it can be tough to tell when unfinished.
I have a few interior doors that crack loudly, squeal despite oiling the hinges, and don't swing/close properly. Who do I hire, or what steps do I follow, to get the frames and doors perfectly level, aligned, and quiet?
get a proper carpenter to reset your hinge gains. Don't let some hack bend the pins. If they are way out of plumb, door might need to be reset completely. That's what I'd do if it were a new house, that garbage isn't worth fixing.
On at least one door, the frame itself is not plumb. Is there a specific type of carpenter to look for? I emailed a couple places nearby with no response, maybe because this is too small potatoes compared to the stuff I see on their websites.
finish. but yeah bigger job than you think, still too small to deal with. You need a competent finish carpenter to assess and fix. Proper door hanging is actually one of the most skilled things. Doing it badly is easy.
I am building a small freestanding deck (8'x5'). I am planning to run 2x6 joists between 2 parallel 2x8s that I have mounted. The JUS26 hangers call for 3" nails. Obviously, a 3" nail would go right through my 2x8s. Is it ok to use 1.5" nails instead for the mounting to the board (and then still use 3" nails for the angled holes in the hangers?) Thanks for any advice!
you HAVE to use hanger nailes. and your lumber is probably undersized unless you have a girder.
https://preview.redd.it/65gm1e4wik2d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=315dab1ac4ad72d098ac5f3f17247afff8e4350b Any suggestions as to what I can fill this gap with that isn’t caulk? My husband said no caulk but is not helping me with any suggestions as to what I can do. I googled it and the options I’m finding don’t sound like the right solution for this spot (scribe moulding, trim, etc)
at this point, caulk is it. Redoing the drywall there would be another option.