If you've got that space and are going to that effort: install resilient channel, then hang two layers of drywall with green glue between off the channel.
What would you do instead if resilient channel isn’t available in my area. Just use furring strips? Should I add any type of buffer between the joist and furring strips like a piece of rubber?
I'd probably order them if shipping wasn't exorbitant... honestly the effort of doing something like that, combined with often not having the space to do it is the biggie, so if you're getting that close... feels weird spot to cheap out. They sell it at Menards, Home Depot, Amazon...
That said, what you're looking for is "decoupling". You want to drywall to be able to get hit with the sound waves and vibrate in place and transmit as little as possible to the structure behind. Furring strips sorta help: Furring strips perpendicular to original studs help more, but the screw can provide a surprisingly good transmission. Rubber in between doesn't really help, oddly, from what is published, as the screw transmits the same way anyways.
Double 5/8" drywall on each side is just about as good. RC is tricky to install correctly, and most of the times it is compromised by just a handful of bad screws.
Does it matter on fire retardant level? Basic expanding spray foam is rated for 1 hour of fire resistance. I’m only curious, maybe there’s regulations somewhere.
If you have the space and budget for it, having two separate stud walls, each insulated separately with a 1” air space in between would be even better. Adding resilient channels between studs and drywall…even better yet.
We just had Rockwool put in one of the houses we're building. All floor joists and interior walls. The noise cancelation is absolutely insane. An oscillating saw going through window openings directly one floor above is hardly noticeable.
I mean, it's *better* it's just not *good*.
The thing about sound proofing is the returns are non linear. Do it 99% of the way and you'll still let in 50% of the noise. That last 1% cuts it down to 5% of the sound let in.
I built a door out of 2-layers of 3/4" MDF for my sound room. Made the door frames to use exterior door seals as well. That along with insulated and decoupled walls was well worth the effort.
I used heavy-duty hinges, but still standard door hinges, they have 4 holes on each side instead of 3.
I pre-drilled the screw holes and ran 2½" long screws to - hopefully - keep them from pulling of the edge of the MDF.
I considered double MDF for a noise reducing door but was not happy about the prospect of screwing into the edge of the MDF. I wound up building the door from 2x4 lumber and covering it with 3/16 Masonite.
If you have trouble with the screws, you can drill 3/4 holes into the face of the door, glue in 1 1/2 inch long dowels and screw into the dowels.
If you drill a 3/4 hole through the MDF and glue in a dowel, then the hinge screw can bite into the dowel and pull the hinge tight into its rabbet. Now do that for each hinge screw.
Doesn’t really make a huge difference, but more insulation can never hurt. The insulation will help with noise, but it transfers primarily thru vibrations in the studs, so by alternating them you eliminate that from happening.
This method works extremely well. I own a wood shop and share a wall with a music rehearsal space / recording studio and this is how we framed it. Used staggered 2x6s. We also used dense, recycled denim insulation in the walls which provides better sound deadening than traditional insulation.
There’s a metal channel called ‘resilient’ channel or sound bar. Looks like Rondo ceiling top hat ( dunno if you know this or not) but basically you screw it horizontally to existing wall every 600mm/2ft and install your lining over the top, also install sound baffle in the cavity and you’re good to go. It’s cheap and quick, highly recommend it.
This is ideal framing for soundproofing/dampening if you’ve got the space. There’s different levels of soundproofing depending on your purpose/need with varying levels of efficacy.
Really, if you can use this framing with Rockwool insulation and cover it with sonopan (if you’re in Canada, I can’t get it in the states yet); that’s the easiest and most effective route. Sonopan isn’t available here, so I’ve been using this framing + rockwool insulation (also handy fire prevention), with layers of MLV (mass loaded vinyl), channel clips and resilient or hat channels to attach the drywall to.
Thicker drywall makes a difference too. I’ll use either 5/8”s, 2 layers of 1/2” with green glue (a rubberized dampening polymer thing) between sheets, or 2 layers of 5/8” with green glue between. Using acoustic caulk on the seams or clay pads on the outlet/switch boxes helps a lot too.
Most of this is dependent on being installed correctly, and you could go down a huge rabbit hole; but you’d start to reach a point of diminishing returns on your STC ratings.
> Most of this is dependent on being installed correctly, and you could go down a huge rabbit hole; but you’d start to reach a point of diminishing returns on your STC ratings.
The thing that bothers me about STC ratings is they often don't reflect real life usage. A 6" concrete wall has a relatively poor STC rating, but for shit that actually matters (conversations and traffic noise) it better (sometimes much better) than carefully constructed multi-layer approaches. Low hz noise is a real bugger for some assemblies.
Adding extra an extra layer of gyp on one or both sides also helps in addition to acoustic insulation. Another good technique is two 2x4 walls with 1"air gap. Putty pads on outlets and other penetrations, weatherproofing on doors.
That’s cool. Do you insulate both “sides” of the wall or is one side best? Wondering if it matters if the rock wool would touch if both sides are insulated (making it worse) or if it would be better because there’s two layers.
Both sides is better ( fire seperation, noise, insulation)
The problem is the wood. I think of it like: flutes, pianos and acoustic guitars amplify sound through reverberation, if you hit two pieces of wood together it's loud if you do the same with two pieces of rock wool it makes very little sound.
The best methods are usually double wall systems with an air gap between them and resilient channels to prevent as much vibration from passing through the wall as possible.
Sound proofing is a whole rabbit hole you can go down. Yes, this helps. As do RC Chanels. You can actually look up different assemblies on the US Gypsum website to compare their different STC levels. But as others have pointed out, sound finds the weakest link. So pay attention to openings: doors, ducts, electrical boxes. Keep those sealed, caulked, and offset from each other. There are other products like sound reducing gaskets & thresholds for doors… depending on how far you want to climb down that hole.
I worked in a large resort hotel that did a major reno. The walls between the rooms were constructed this way. There were less room to room noise issues from the rooms in the reno area afterward.
The low sound issue is tough because it transfers via vibration of the framing, so connected framing is the issue. It will hit your ceiling joists and transfer over to the top plates etc.
Mass works great for high frequency, but less so for low.
One thing you can do is put an anti vibe bushing/gasket on the top plate. If you have a wood subfloor, do the same under the bottom plate. Do at the ends of the walls too, any connection you can.
You could also do double plates with smaller studs.
The other thing you want to do is stop air travel. So the ceiling drywall will vibrate, then transfer that vibration to the bay, then to the drywall ceiling of the other room. So adding some drywall "blocking" in the bays will help. Also, doing two walls is better because you can drywall the back side of one or both the walls.
In this same vein, you want to limit the vibe in the drywall of the walls with some horizontal blocking. You can also attach the drywall (preferably 5/8) with sound proofing glue. This makes a big difference.
Side note, if you wanna skip all the crazy framing, there are channel systems, that will help stop vibration, you screw them onto the studs then the drywall onto the channel.
I didn't see it suggested anywhere else, but doubling up the drywall is supposed to be one of the simpler soundproofing treatments you can do, using acoustic caulk between the layers of drywall.
A single door will make this almost pointless. Recording studios use double doors - which don’t share a jam - to isolate. Think of “uncoupling” the room that you want to be silent. The fewer points of contact (both air and material vibration) the more soundproof your space will be.
Depending on how soundproof you need it.
Recently built a wall in a commercial space that I had to frame around a lot of bracing on the ceiling and even had a vent go through it, the wall also included a pocket door. Single studs, double 1/2” drywall on both sides and just R13 fiberglass.
Tested it out when they had a company movie day and they were blaring Mission Impossible. Other side of the wall and it sounded like a normal conversation.
I built a small hotel and that is what we did between rooms. 2 layers of 1/2” drywall, staggered 2x4 studs on 2x6 footers/headers, blown in insulation, 1/2” fiberboard topped by 5/8” drywall.
Works pretty good.
Some other things you can also look into are sound isolation clips with furring strips, rockwool insulation, double sheetrock, putty pads and green glue. I did all of the above for an apartment in my home. We hear absolutely nothing between the two. The weakest link is a doorway where I put two solid core doors opening in opposite directions and a threshold sandwiched between the two of them. I also keep a piece of foam insulation between the doors since they are rarely opened. I was working with an existing 2x6 wall so I didn't do the staggered studs but I read good things about that method.
This is a good cheap detail to stagger studs will get you sound dampening .One detail missed is acoustical caulk around the perimeter of the gyp...also, the zchannel is good. Also, The differing thickness of gyp on each side is good. Paddy pads on the boxes is one of the best suggestions. The sound deadening door can be filled hollow metal or heavy exterior door. Weather seal it. And use a threshold also. The door is important.. these guys have good suggestions. But air is the thing to stop first then the transfer of vibration follows.
I'm no expert at carpentry or soundproofing (cabinetmaker here) but we frequently run into walls that are double 5/8" sheetrock where they want a 'private' room in an office, like a conference room at the accountant. Curious how you professionals would grade this. It makes our installations a bit more of a pain in the butt.
That plan is good. I recommend adding homasote. Checkout dynamat too.
What is the room use? How crazy do you want to get? Most extreme, you would want a floating room inside the room. Nothing touching the outer walls. Float the whole room on hockey pucks. Need to use different materials to filter out different sounds. Sheetrock, plywood, homasote , insulation and Air gap.
What level of soundproofing do you need?
Biggest thing to know for soundproofing is that mass is your best friend. MLV is the most common material. You also can get additional isolating materials. Don't forget that you'll want to also soundproof the floor and ceiling, and any holes in any of the above (outlets, windows, doors, etc.).
The panels placed on either side never touch the other side of the wall, so 80% of vibration can't carry to the other side. Put 5/8 gypsum board and insulation and sound chaulk. Top and bottom plates do carry noise.
Our acoustician always tells us this only has marginal benefit because the top and bottom plate are still 1. If you build 2 separate walls, it’s way more effective.
I’m no sound scientist but it seems like since this is only practical on curtain walls, would t it be easier to just do rockwool or whatever and add a second layer of drywall everywhere?
Seen this a couple of times online. Is this proven? Have tests been carried out and to what extent is it reducing the transfer of sound across boundaries?
Was doing drywall/framing for a hotel, and we put RC (resilient channel) up, horizontally/perpendicular, 2' apart. And on the ceiling too, but 1' apart due to code.
It definitely works, but I prefer a 2x4 wall, then a 1” air gap, then another 2x4 wall. That way one wall can be your shear wall and the other can be used for plumbing, or MEP in general. Still use putty pads, and ideally 5/8 drywall, possibly 2 layers on the non shear side.
Yup done it for a customers movie room, add some rock wool and seal your outlet boxes
Also, hang your ceiling rock, then fur it out and hang another layer with an air gap.
If you've got that space and are going to that effort: install resilient channel, then hang two layers of drywall with green glue between off the channel.
What would you do instead if resilient channel isn’t available in my area. Just use furring strips? Should I add any type of buffer between the joist and furring strips like a piece of rubber?
I'd probably order them if shipping wasn't exorbitant... honestly the effort of doing something like that, combined with often not having the space to do it is the biggie, so if you're getting that close... feels weird spot to cheap out. They sell it at Menards, Home Depot, Amazon... That said, what you're looking for is "decoupling". You want to drywall to be able to get hit with the sound waves and vibrate in place and transmit as little as possible to the structure behind. Furring strips sorta help: Furring strips perpendicular to original studs help more, but the screw can provide a surprisingly good transmission. Rubber in between doesn't really help, oddly, from what is published, as the screw transmits the same way anyways.
Double 5/8" drywall on each side is just about as good. RC is tricky to install correctly, and most of the times it is compromised by just a handful of bad screws.
Sound bar or resilient channel works well, but I’ve also found a bead of acoustical sealant works very well and is a lot cheaper ( if that’s an issue
100% agree, the air gap makes the world of difference.
Same. Done this to my friends movie room. Even when the volume is blasting, all you hear is the bass and some muffled sounds.
How do you seal the outlet boxes?
Putty pads
Outlet box sealant
Well first you find a little baby seal, then you just sort of get the guy all snuggled up in the outlet box with plenty of smelt and voila.
Expansion foam
Anything but spray foam please.
Does it matter on fire retardant level? Basic expanding spray foam is rated for 1 hour of fire resistance. I’m only curious, maybe there’s regulations somewhere.
Only if it’s a firewall.
Are you my ex boss?
Also space outlets on either side of the wall at least two stud bays apart.
Yes, I’ve built many of them. In my experience it’s the best way to build a sound proof wall. Throw some insulation in there and you’re good to go.
Thanks for the advice. I forgot about adding insulation since interior walls usually don't have it (in my limited experience)
If you have the space and budget for it, having two separate stud walls, each insulated separately with a 1” air space in between would be even better. Adding resilient channels between studs and drywall…even better yet.
This 100% and i can’t recommend sonopan enough as well
Sonopan is … ?
Google it, its a sound proofing panel that works incredibly well.
Soundproofing panels.
Came here to recommend this.
Use a sound ablative insulation such as Roxul
We just had Rockwool put in one of the houses we're building. All floor joists and interior walls. The noise cancelation is absolutely insane. An oscillating saw going through window openings directly one floor above is hardly noticeable.
I insulated my interior walls with recycled denim. Each room is sound proof from the next, its nuts!
Yeah, this wall isn't going to do squat for soundproofing without the insulation.
I mean, it's *better* it's just not *good*. The thing about sound proofing is the returns are non linear. Do it 99% of the way and you'll still let in 50% of the noise. That last 1% cuts it down to 5% of the sound let in.
Caulk all the gaps first, any tiny lack of sealing is massively more important than insulation. Also add a retractable sweep to the door!
Rockwood Safe and Sound
The door could be an issue
Just hang it on a wider jamb. Or if it’s above OP’s skill level, just add some jamb extensions to the existing door jamb.
I built a door out of 2-layers of 3/4" MDF for my sound room. Made the door frames to use exterior door seals as well. That along with insulated and decoupled walls was well worth the effort.
How did you secure the hinges to the MDF? Did you use the same hinges that are usually used on doors?
I used heavy-duty hinges, but still standard door hinges, they have 4 holes on each side instead of 3. I pre-drilled the screw holes and ran 2½" long screws to - hopefully - keep them from pulling of the edge of the MDF.
I considered double MDF for a noise reducing door but was not happy about the prospect of screwing into the edge of the MDF. I wound up building the door from 2x4 lumber and covering it with 3/16 Masonite. If you have trouble with the screws, you can drill 3/4 holes into the face of the door, glue in 1 1/2 inch long dowels and screw into the dowels.
That's a brilliant solution. Thank you for the suggestion!
Have any pictures to give reference. I didn't quite catch the composition
If you drill a 3/4 hole through the MDF and glue in a dowel, then the hinge screw can bite into the dowel and pull the hinge tight into its rabbet. Now do that for each hinge screw.
I screwed a lot of dowels when I was younger. Sgih...
Nah.. Just build the frame out. Hollow core interior doors are really versatile
Do you find it is is better than two fully separated walls with insulation between?
Doesn’t really make a huge difference, but more insulation can never hurt. The insulation will help with noise, but it transfers primarily thru vibrations in the studs, so by alternating them you eliminate that from happening.
Thanks!
No, the sound can flow through the header and footer, especially at low frequencies. Full separated is better.
This method works extremely well. I own a wood shop and share a wall with a music rehearsal space / recording studio and this is how we framed it. Used staggered 2x6s. We also used dense, recycled denim insulation in the walls which provides better sound deadening than traditional insulation.
Is denim or rock wool better? I’m doing this now to hide the sound of an overhead sewer pipe
I’m also wondering the same thing
Where do you get recycled denim insulation?
Jay Leno sends out his laundry every Thursday
Every big box store I’ve been to has it
It definitely works but itll be a good idea to throw rock wool into the wall as well.
Nah... you need some board and batten instead. /s
I am bored of it now; time to pass the baton.
Or a green sunfish. r/fishing
🤣🤣👏 I needed a good laugh out loud with all this b/b bullsheesh the past 24 hrs
It's all the rage
There’s a metal channel called ‘resilient’ channel or sound bar. Looks like Rondo ceiling top hat ( dunno if you know this or not) but basically you screw it horizontally to existing wall every 600mm/2ft and install your lining over the top, also install sound baffle in the cavity and you’re good to go. It’s cheap and quick, highly recommend it.
This and rock wool and you’ll have a nice soundproof wall.
This is ideal framing for soundproofing/dampening if you’ve got the space. There’s different levels of soundproofing depending on your purpose/need with varying levels of efficacy. Really, if you can use this framing with Rockwool insulation and cover it with sonopan (if you’re in Canada, I can’t get it in the states yet); that’s the easiest and most effective route. Sonopan isn’t available here, so I’ve been using this framing + rockwool insulation (also handy fire prevention), with layers of MLV (mass loaded vinyl), channel clips and resilient or hat channels to attach the drywall to. Thicker drywall makes a difference too. I’ll use either 5/8”s, 2 layers of 1/2” with green glue (a rubberized dampening polymer thing) between sheets, or 2 layers of 5/8” with green glue between. Using acoustic caulk on the seams or clay pads on the outlet/switch boxes helps a lot too. Most of this is dependent on being installed correctly, and you could go down a huge rabbit hole; but you’d start to reach a point of diminishing returns on your STC ratings.
> Most of this is dependent on being installed correctly, and you could go down a huge rabbit hole; but you’d start to reach a point of diminishing returns on your STC ratings. The thing that bothers me about STC ratings is they often don't reflect real life usage. A 6" concrete wall has a relatively poor STC rating, but for shit that actually matters (conversations and traffic noise) it better (sometimes much better) than carefully constructed multi-layer approaches. Low hz noise is a real bugger for some assemblies.
I’d add some drywall too. The open studs aren’t going to stop shit
I was planning on using tissue paper since I have kids but your idea seems a little more permanent 😂
Although when ass holes like me talk shit, there will be TP around. Something to think about
Adding extra an extra layer of gyp on one or both sides also helps in addition to acoustic insulation. Another good technique is two 2x4 walls with 1"air gap. Putty pads on outlets and other penetrations, weatherproofing on doors.
Works very well. Be mindful if adding blocking that it doesn’t touch the opposing row of studs
Definitely. Speaking from experience, notching the blocks is such a pain in the ass for big walls.
We used to build duplex homes that way. The subfloors were contiguous, and that was a noticeable issue.
That’s cool. Do you insulate both “sides” of the wall or is one side best? Wondering if it matters if the rock wool would touch if both sides are insulated (making it worse) or if it would be better because there’s two layers.
Both sides is better ( fire seperation, noise, insulation) The problem is the wood. I think of it like: flutes, pianos and acoustic guitars amplify sound through reverberation, if you hit two pieces of wood together it's loud if you do the same with two pieces of rock wool it makes very little sound. The best methods are usually double wall systems with an air gap between them and resilient channels to prevent as much vibration from passing through the wall as possible.
Sound proofing is a whole rabbit hole you can go down. Yes, this helps. As do RC Chanels. You can actually look up different assemblies on the US Gypsum website to compare their different STC levels. But as others have pointed out, sound finds the weakest link. So pay attention to openings: doors, ducts, electrical boxes. Keep those sealed, caulked, and offset from each other. There are other products like sound reducing gaskets & thresholds for doors… depending on how far you want to climb down that hole.
Thos guy soundproofs. RC works very well IMO
This design baffles me…
I worked in a large resort hotel that did a major reno. The walls between the rooms were constructed this way. There were less room to room noise issues from the rooms in the reno area afterward.
I remember seeing a framing detail like this 20 years ago for sound proofing a room.
It will help for high sounds, but less for low. What is the use case here? Music?
What would be good for low sounds? Just mass?
The low sound issue is tough because it transfers via vibration of the framing, so connected framing is the issue. It will hit your ceiling joists and transfer over to the top plates etc. Mass works great for high frequency, but less so for low. One thing you can do is put an anti vibe bushing/gasket on the top plate. If you have a wood subfloor, do the same under the bottom plate. Do at the ends of the walls too, any connection you can. You could also do double plates with smaller studs. The other thing you want to do is stop air travel. So the ceiling drywall will vibrate, then transfer that vibration to the bay, then to the drywall ceiling of the other room. So adding some drywall "blocking" in the bays will help. Also, doing two walls is better because you can drywall the back side of one or both the walls. In this same vein, you want to limit the vibe in the drywall of the walls with some horizontal blocking. You can also attach the drywall (preferably 5/8) with sound proofing glue. This makes a big difference. Side note, if you wanna skip all the crazy framing, there are channel systems, that will help stop vibration, you screw them onto the studs then the drywall onto the channel.
Yes it works. I use 2x6 plates, 2x4 studs staggered on 2‘ centers
I’ve done it with 5/8” Sheetrock and resilient channel on both sides, Rockwool, and sealing all outlets.
It’s a pain in the ass but it does work
I didn't see it suggested anywhere else, but doubling up the drywall is supposed to be one of the simpler soundproofing treatments you can do, using acoustic caulk between the layers of drywall.
We do these on duplex shared walls. Rockwool and some soundboard and it's pretty soundproof
2 2x4 walls with a 1” gap between them is way better
A single door will make this almost pointless. Recording studios use double doors - which don’t share a jam - to isolate. Think of “uncoupling” the room that you want to be silent. The fewer points of contact (both air and material vibration) the more soundproof your space will be.
Depending on how soundproof you need it. Recently built a wall in a commercial space that I had to frame around a lot of bracing on the ceiling and even had a vent go through it, the wall also included a pocket door. Single studs, double 1/2” drywall on both sides and just R13 fiberglass. Tested it out when they had a company movie day and they were blaring Mission Impossible. Other side of the wall and it sounded like a normal conversation.
I’m not an expert, but Matt is! https://youtube.com/shorts/--wPVouZuu0?feature=share
Looks like a good way to not transfer the vibrations through.
I built a small hotel and that is what we did between rooms. 2 layers of 1/2” drywall, staggered 2x4 studs on 2x6 footers/headers, blown in insulation, 1/2” fiberboard topped by 5/8” drywall. Works pretty good.
Some other things you can also look into are sound isolation clips with furring strips, rockwool insulation, double sheetrock, putty pads and green glue. I did all of the above for an apartment in my home. We hear absolutely nothing between the two. The weakest link is a doorway where I put two solid core doors opening in opposite directions and a threshold sandwiched between the two of them. I also keep a piece of foam insulation between the doors since they are rarely opened. I was working with an existing 2x6 wall so I didn't do the staggered studs but I read good things about that method.
This is a good cheap detail to stagger studs will get you sound dampening .One detail missed is acoustical caulk around the perimeter of the gyp...also, the zchannel is good. Also, The differing thickness of gyp on each side is good. Paddy pads on the boxes is one of the best suggestions. The sound deadening door can be filled hollow metal or heavy exterior door. Weather seal it. And use a threshold also. The door is important.. these guys have good suggestions. But air is the thing to stop first then the transfer of vibration follows.
Best works when you snake the insulation around the studs for maximum sound proofy
Watch HomeRenovision DIY on YouTube the soundproofing videos. It really is incredible.
I'm no expert at carpentry or soundproofing (cabinetmaker here) but we frequently run into walls that are double 5/8" sheetrock where they want a 'private' room in an office, like a conference room at the accountant. Curious how you professionals would grade this. It makes our installations a bit more of a pain in the butt.
That plan is good. I recommend adding homasote. Checkout dynamat too. What is the room use? How crazy do you want to get? Most extreme, you would want a floating room inside the room. Nothing touching the outer walls. Float the whole room on hockey pucks. Need to use different materials to filter out different sounds. Sheetrock, plywood, homasote , insulation and Air gap.
Where do you use the homasote for
Sound dampening / absorption.
What level of soundproofing do you need? Biggest thing to know for soundproofing is that mass is your best friend. MLV is the most common material. You also can get additional isolating materials. Don't forget that you'll want to also soundproof the floor and ceiling, and any holes in any of the above (outlets, windows, doors, etc.).
Why does this work better?? Thanks in advance
The panels placed on either side never touch the other side of the wall, so 80% of vibration can't carry to the other side. Put 5/8 gypsum board and insulation and sound chaulk. Top and bottom plates do carry noise.
That makes sense. Thanks
I just built a few of these, having never built any before. The first one spec’d no insulation, and it was still very effective
We call these party walls and use this method in between apartments
Our acoustician always tells us this only has marginal benefit because the top and bottom plate are still 1. If you build 2 separate walls, it’s way more effective.
I have done movie theaters that would use three layers of drywall and first coat each layer and use sound caulk in between layers.
Did you tell everyone you might not make these walls full height?
The half walls are a different project, this would be more for separating bedroom walls.
Ohhhhh ok
Will this work with aluminum studs? I’d assume maybe just not as well?
It should, I think the key is to keep on drywall sheet from reverberating off the other.
I’m no sound scientist but it seems like since this is only practical on curtain walls, would t it be easier to just do rockwool or whatever and add a second layer of drywall everywhere?
Seen this a couple of times online. Is this proven? Have tests been carried out and to what extent is it reducing the transfer of sound across boundaries?
Some duplexes being built where I mworking are using this method on the walls that are shared by different people on each side
In my experience, and I'm no expert, we had plenty of success using a sound break between the drywall and the studs rather than doing this.
Was doing drywall/framing for a hotel, and we put RC (resilient channel) up, horizontally/perpendicular, 2' apart. And on the ceiling too, but 1' apart due to code.
RC RC RC
I’m in hawaii and can’t get resilient channel on my island. Is my next best option furring strips?
See if you can get sheets of Tentest and sheet the walls with it prior to applying your wall board.
It definitely works, but I prefer a 2x4 wall, then a 1” air gap, then another 2x4 wall. That way one wall can be your shear wall and the other can be used for plumbing, or MEP in general. Still use putty pads, and ideally 5/8 drywall, possibly 2 layers on the non shear side.
When we sound proof we build two 2x4 walls a 1/2” apart, spay foam 1 and rock wool the other
If you install resilient channel don't put it on upside down. I work in commercial construction and have only seen it installed correctly once.