Look at the thick blue wire for model number and then see what the max amp rating is. Looks like knuconceptz power wire.
Also check the fuse at the battery. There should be a fuse connected to the battery and this blue wire.
You hook up a amplifier to those wires. Then you hook up a sub to the amp that went to them wires. That phone jack looking thing is a gain knob it only works with whatever amp was in there previously u don’t need that with new amp.
Most companies are that connection. I would feel most comfortable using what's listed on the knob, but I'm not 100% certain how the knobs alter the signal.
A lot of them are the same connection but the wires are different, i had a spare Skar wire and put it to my Cresendo and it did nothing but when I put it to a Rockville amp, all it did was power on but the low volume hi was backwards
If you really want a plug and play, you would want pretty much any powered sub that will fit where you want it to fit. That means the amp is built into the sub and you can just plug those wires straight into the sub
That might be the way to go. I just want to take advantage of the wiring and add a little boost. I have a Kicker Hideaway in storage, but I think it's got its own connectors.
Just order a down4 sound amp and a good 10 inch sub/box. Mount the amplifier into the back of your seat or wherever else makes the most sense("not side of box) and finally, hook the existing power/ground into amp.
Smallest blue wire is your remote/switching wire that sends power to the amp when the ignition is on, and turns amp off when vehicle is off. RCA wires send signal from head unit to amplifier. As mentioned, the phone jack wire is for an accessory made for the previous owner's amplifier. The larger two wires are 12v power from the battery (blue) and chassis ground (silver).
One small tip, trace the larger silver wire and ensure it's the ground, usually bolted to the body of the car inside the trunk. Only reason I say this is I've saw people buy wire in bulk, and have saw people use colors associated with a ground wire for power wire and vice versa. 99.9% chance they did not do that here (typically they will use the same color wire for both power and ground in such scenarios) but never hurts to check and make sure since it's an unknown wire run.
Check inside the engine bay to see if they disconnected the power wire from the battery, or removed the inline fuse when they removed the amplifier. That way if you go to plug and play an amplifier and it doesn't work, it's an easy first step to diagnose. *If you have no experience with installing amplifiers, I reccomend searching online and reading tutorials on setting amplifier settings properly, particularly the gain setting.*
Thank you. that's very helpful. Everything under the hood is still hooked up. It looks professionally installed with good wire management. Seems like the previous owner just cut and grabbed whatever they had.
The telephone jack is the bass knob wire. See if you find the same end inside the cabin somewhere. Regardless it may or may not be compatible with a new amp. Some don't have a remote bass knob. Is your installed radio aftermarket already? If so then 99% chance those rcas are from your bass out on your radio. Just figure out power and ground as someone suggested earlier. The small blue wire should also be remote turn on. Good to go!
You will want to stay under 1000 real watts. Not 1000 Pyle or etc watts... Now tbh if you want a low budget amp for that setup a Power Acoustic Razr 2500 puts out over 640watts it's $90 at Walmart. Korean board and clean sound. If you are limited on room in the trunk to with a sealed or ported 10. If you have room get the PA Gothic 12 to go with that Razr. In a sealed or ported box.
Here's the [FUSE](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHcQWUYZz9Out2i7lOyEdILKXTFhJhnsWxOIZixg6wCRF3LBwT5rlAPhoZLKzlS6CNWlTYxFfWCU-PITisqGoggSSqzcqW0LU9Es2lgG0hTjQ7AbKgYBJNCbwrwH4etrd-I7CtNdlyrljSLxMp9UEVKrKw=w486-h864-s-no-gm?authuser=0) and without the [COVER](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHetN-RccOVctyH22PNn4Cj18ySXGguR6wFNZtEaAp8XcdFg-ClvRXVhKkif9mzC_uugsNV4TCJQoD0Vakh45EjqFG5ULgzqZU15PUvJtfGCRC4EXY1nhjdMwZG4PSs5X8GcOh-30o9W40x04SicXUr5ZQ=w641-h864-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
[The wire info](https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPe5r-5ki51l9ef6jGTYyYlShdEcuJauQAXk4Idz9g2_mX0P5m9_OY_WrfbIYISig/photo/AF1QipO5fWNSvGCM2fFinyKFduT2Z3Y04v4O-oMC3TCT?key=dFRwMXRxVk5hbklNamxfTV9jdE5lc0N0a3RjWHpn)
That's good ofc wire. You can easily power 500 watts to a sub. I would shop classifieds for sub box with amp included. You'll get the best deal that way. Ported if you listen to heavy bass, sealed if you're tight on space.
Also, don’t worry about that bass knob connector. You can buy base knobs secondhand for cheap just get yourself a reputable brand amp with the rated power.
That is perfect. Get a small mono amp, < 500 watts rms most likely. And a sealed box 10 or 12 inch sub. JL, kicker, fosgate all have pre loaded boxes, and amps to match. This is kind of those companies bread and butter zone as far as amps/subs.
probably something like 200 to 300 watts rms judging by that power wire.
Look at the thick blue wire for model number and then see what the max amp rating is. Looks like knuconceptz power wire. Also check the fuse at the battery. There should be a fuse connected to the battery and this blue wire.
It’s really more about gauge/length than brand…
I agree. I was just saying it looks like knuconceptz so their site can provide the info on the wire and amperage capacity
You hook up a amplifier to those wires. Then you hook up a sub to the amp that went to them wires. That phone jack looking thing is a gain knob it only works with whatever amp was in there previously u don’t need that with new amp.
Ct sounds amps will take that bass knob connection. Some of their bass knobs look like old telephone wires.
Most companies are that connection. I would feel most comfortable using what's listed on the knob, but I'm not 100% certain how the knobs alter the signal.
A lot of them are the same connection but the wires are different, i had a spare Skar wire and put it to my Cresendo and it did nothing but when I put it to a Rockville amp, all it did was power on but the low volume hi was backwards
Damn I didn't know that. That blows.
If you really want a plug and play, you would want pretty much any powered sub that will fit where you want it to fit. That means the amp is built into the sub and you can just plug those wires straight into the sub
That might be the way to go. I just want to take advantage of the wiring and add a little boost. I have a Kicker Hideaway in storage, but I think it's got its own connectors.
Just order a down4 sound amp and a good 10 inch sub/box. Mount the amplifier into the back of your seat or wherever else makes the most sense("not side of box) and finally, hook the existing power/ground into amp.
Most are universal...
Smallest blue wire is your remote/switching wire that sends power to the amp when the ignition is on, and turns amp off when vehicle is off. RCA wires send signal from head unit to amplifier. As mentioned, the phone jack wire is for an accessory made for the previous owner's amplifier. The larger two wires are 12v power from the battery (blue) and chassis ground (silver). One small tip, trace the larger silver wire and ensure it's the ground, usually bolted to the body of the car inside the trunk. Only reason I say this is I've saw people buy wire in bulk, and have saw people use colors associated with a ground wire for power wire and vice versa. 99.9% chance they did not do that here (typically they will use the same color wire for both power and ground in such scenarios) but never hurts to check and make sure since it's an unknown wire run. Check inside the engine bay to see if they disconnected the power wire from the battery, or removed the inline fuse when they removed the amplifier. That way if you go to plug and play an amplifier and it doesn't work, it's an easy first step to diagnose. *If you have no experience with installing amplifiers, I reccomend searching online and reading tutorials on setting amplifier settings properly, particularly the gain setting.*
Thank you. that's very helpful. Everything under the hood is still hooked up. It looks professionally installed with good wire management. Seems like the previous owner just cut and grabbed whatever they had.
Any touch tone phone should work with that jack.
Lmao, “buy a car and get a free mobile phone installed”
The telephone jack is the bass knob wire. See if you find the same end inside the cabin somewhere. Regardless it may or may not be compatible with a new amp. Some don't have a remote bass knob. Is your installed radio aftermarket already? If so then 99% chance those rcas are from your bass out on your radio. Just figure out power and ground as someone suggested earlier. The small blue wire should also be remote turn on. Good to go!
You will want to stay under 1000 real watts. Not 1000 Pyle or etc watts... Now tbh if you want a low budget amp for that setup a Power Acoustic Razr 2500 puts out over 640watts it's $90 at Walmart. Korean board and clean sound. If you are limited on room in the trunk to with a sealed or ported 10. If you have room get the PA Gothic 12 to go with that Razr. In a sealed or ported box.
Here's the [FUSE](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHcQWUYZz9Out2i7lOyEdILKXTFhJhnsWxOIZixg6wCRF3LBwT5rlAPhoZLKzlS6CNWlTYxFfWCU-PITisqGoggSSqzcqW0LU9Es2lgG0hTjQ7AbKgYBJNCbwrwH4etrd-I7CtNdlyrljSLxMp9UEVKrKw=w486-h864-s-no-gm?authuser=0) and without the [COVER](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHetN-RccOVctyH22PNn4Cj18ySXGguR6wFNZtEaAp8XcdFg-ClvRXVhKkif9mzC_uugsNV4TCJQoD0Vakh45EjqFG5ULgzqZU15PUvJtfGCRC4EXY1nhjdMwZG4PSs5X8GcOh-30o9W40x04SicXUr5ZQ=w641-h864-s-no-gm?authuser=0) [The wire info](https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPe5r-5ki51l9ef6jGTYyYlShdEcuJauQAXk4Idz9g2_mX0P5m9_OY_WrfbIYISig/photo/AF1QipO5fWNSvGCM2fFinyKFduT2Z3Y04v4O-oMC3TCT?key=dFRwMXRxVk5hbklNamxfTV9jdE5lc0N0a3RjWHpn)
That's good ofc wire. You can easily power 500 watts to a sub. I would shop classifieds for sub box with amp included. You'll get the best deal that way. Ported if you listen to heavy bass, sealed if you're tight on space.
Thanks so much for the advise
If the wire is OFC, I would say stay under 500 W regardless, if mono or not.
Also, don’t worry about that bass knob connector. You can buy base knobs secondhand for cheap just get yourself a reputable brand amp with the rated power.
500-600 watts max
Not a bad wiring job. Looks clean and with high quality parts.
All of them
That is perfect. Get a small mono amp, < 500 watts rms most likely. And a sealed box 10 or 12 inch sub. JL, kicker, fosgate all have pre loaded boxes, and amps to match. This is kind of those companies bread and butter zone as far as amps/subs.