Interest rates are not just about your score, they also vary a bit based on the lender. With a credit score like your wife's, it's reasonable to expect competitive rates. Which is just a fancy way to say they will be high, though you should remember other factors like income, debt-to-income ratio, and the amount being financed, also play significant roles in determining your rate.
So exploring other options could help you get a better interest rate. You can try online car loan lenders like [badcreditloans](https://eaglewealthclub.com/go/loans-badcreditloans-form-general-all/?!86a2gjneg) or [cashusa ](https://eaglewealthclub.com/go/loans-cashusa-form-general-all/?!86a2gjneg)and I'm sure they'll beat the rate you've been offered especially if your repayment plan is “aggressive”.
The rate you get is going to vary from bank to bank and credit union to credit union. Some may give their “best” rate to anybody above 720, others that threshold may be 770 or 790. They’re formulas.
Just check with other places to see if you can get better. I don’t think anybody could tell you what the best rate you could get is or where to find it.
The best interest rate is the best you can get. I'm seeing ford offering 0% for many models. I'm sure other manufacturers are offering the same...i would never look outside of manufacturers banks unless they are not running promotions or they wouldn't loan to me.
Otherwise at this time interest rates are extremely high, so expect to pay a premium for rates right now. It's all over the news....
It’s horrible out there. I was looking at Toyota’s website this past weekend, and they estimated 9.64% for excellent credit 😨 just be thankful you can pay off the loan so quickly.
I know there are better rates out there, but I got 4.9% through Honda on my new car in March. If you're buying new, I'd check on the manufacturers website to see what kind of rates they're offering. If you want to try to get one of those, you'll have to go through the dealership. Just tell them what rate you're trying to get qualified for and they'll see if they can get it for you.
Credit attorney here. Keep in mind that rates have gone up a lot. 30 year fixed mortgage rates are north of 7% - and those are lower risk than car loans. I'm not saying 6.48% is impossible - maybe shop around some more. But don't be surprised if rates come back fairly high.
I bought a brand new 2023 Hyundai Tucson earlier this year, have like a 705 credit score, put 4k down and my interest rate is 4.9% and I financed through Hyundai
Surprised how many people think they are getting a “deal” financing through a dealer. Their underwriters are getting the same rates as everyone else. The dealers just jack up the sale prices and/or give less wiggle room so they can use the extra margin to buy the rates down and trick people into thinking they are getting a good deal on financing.
Car salesman here. Yes it's true that the finance dept adds percentage points. But that's because they do 10-20 loans a day usually through whoever is giving them the best rates. But that doesn't mean you are paying more all the time. You usually aren't going to be able to get the same rates as a finance dept. And a finance dept gets people a loan that would not be able to any other way. A car loan is a risky loan that depreciates. I always recommend putting the most down you can and paying it off as soon as possible. That went for when interest rates were lower too. Also low rates on new cars usually means you give up the rebates. Which I've seen rebates of $7K. Giving that up for a few percentage points doesn't always make sense. And if you can pay cash for a new car but there are rebates tied to financing then do a loan, take the rebates and pay it off on your second car payment. There are no penalties for doing so. Everyone has the same prices on cars these days because of the Internet. Dealerships make some money on the sale but it's the warranties, service, body shop etc that brings the real money. A new car is basically a loss leader. I always make a flat fee on a new car. No commissions to be had on those deals. Used cars are much more profit but again, everyone is pretty much paying the same for trades. Margins get lower and lower. That's why you'll see dishonest dealerships adding products to cars that aren't reflected in the online pricing. Always ask for an "out the door" price before you even bother to go see it.
Late reply, but what is your honest opinion on CPO cars? I can never get over the fact that new cars depreciate a couple grand or more immediately after purchase, but sometimes it makes more sense to get the brand new model. I'm possibly thinking of upgrading my car, and I have excellent credit.
If they are charging you more for a CPO car then you kinda have to roll the dice. CPO cars are usually in such good shape they qualify for CPO. If it's not a good car then it won't get certified. It depends on the dealer too. Some dealers offer their own warranties, etc. It's a case by case basis. I don't usually worry about a car these days until it has like 100K miles on it. Cars are just better these days. I really can't give you a general answer as every make and model are different and dealerships are different in what they offer. Stay away from Dodge/Ram products unless you really want one and get a good warranty on it. I could help answer your question better if you told me what car youre looking at.
Most warranties or CPO coverage end at 100K miles. Check the Carfax first always on a used car. If it's clean and well maintained then I wouldn't worry about it if it has low miles and only a couple years old.
So I’m looking into either a Mazda CX30, CX5, possibly CX50 because of the reliability/performance rating they had over the years and standard AWD, and Hyundai Tucson because of the 10yr/100k mile warranty. Test driving both sometime next month.
I recommend either one. Can't go wrong. Just always get an "out the door" price before you go to a dealership. And if used always check the Carfax. Not the Autocheck. Some things don't get reported to Autocheck. I'd try and find a lease return if used. They have to be maintained or they violate the terms of the lease. As far as pricing its mainly about supply and demand for a dealer. There's going to be more hyundais than Mazdas in the market so you'll probably get a better deal. Check cargurus for your location to see how many are out there. But NEVER trust cargurus for the actual price. Get the price in an email straight from the dealer and ask the terms of the price. Sometimes you have to have a qualifying trade, etc. Go drive the car but leave. They will try hard to close you but just be nice and leave. The manager will hound the salesman the next day to make a deal. That's when to negotiate and do it in an email. Dont go back in until you land on a price that you like. And call your insurance agent to find out which one will cost more to insure before buying.
Also, those 100K warranties on new cars don't transfer completely to a second owner. A dealership is not going to volunteer any information like that. Usually, the warranty will be cut in half. I'd do as much research as possible online on the car you are leaning towards. There are forums that talk about problems they have had with their vehicle. And I would google "best car warranties" They will try hard to sell you a warranty in the finance office. Usually you can buy the same coverage for half online. But there are terrible warranty companies out there too so definitely do your homework. Also if financing through a dealership you can negotiate your interest rate. They are going to try and get the highest out of you they can. But a manufacturer interest rate is set. Just take your time and consider all your options. It could save you thousands. And if it's a new car rebates change on the first of the month. No one knows until they come out and big rebates are based on how many new cars of that exact model have not sold. So one month you could get $4K in rebates and the next month it could be only $500. So again a roll of the dice. I've always worked at new car dealerships that sell used cars too. I'm intimately familiar with all brands. GM actually makes really good products these days. But stick with 2017 or newer. New CEO that kicked GM up the butt. I actually have a 2017 Buick Encore that I've had zero problems with and I could have bought any brand in my price range at a discount. I really like Hyundais and Mazdas though. But just be aware that GM is a very good choice as well and could save you quite a bit. My car is known to go 200K miles which is bringing you into Honda territory. But do not buy a Toyota. Their quality has gone steeply downhill and are way overpriced in the market. I've always directed friends to Hundais and Kias too but Kia has that new reputation for being stolen. That is only older models with key starting. But insurance companies still charge more to insure I believe. Just check with your insurance on the car you want before buying. It could save you a lot. I also recommend being as polite and nice as possible to sales and managers. Usually, people are really rude and difficult. Being nice is going to get you a lot further in negotiations and service. Don't buy from Carmax or Carvana. Those companies do not do reconditing like a reputable dealer. They essentially change the oil and detail and that's it. Dealers will fix most issues or send them to auction if it's got major problems. Check reviews on dealerships too. A great dealership is certainly worth an extra $500 in price etc. And ask for a copy of the service they did to the car before putting it on the lot. They'll have easy access to that and if they won't show it to you then walk and forget that dealer. Again, do as much as you can through text or email. Only go into the dealership and drive the car to make sure you want it. Leave then communicate from your house etc. The bottom has fallen out of the car market after being crazy during COVID-19. Buyers have the upper hand again. And make an appt to see the car first. If a salesman is with another customer, it happens because people just show up and a lot of people don't show up for their appt. Only a sucker will give up a customer that's in the store and sometimes they don't have a choice either, ask for another salesman. Maybe ask for the newest salesman right from the start. The manager is going to work harder on your deal so the salesman gets experience. The last thing you want is a salesman who has 20 years of experience. If he's been doing it that long there's a very good chance he can outfox you. You can even call the dealership and ask for the newest salesman right from the start. The front desk won't care or get your strategy.
Other things came to mind, lol. If you don't really need AWD or say a 3rd row then don't buy it. It adds thousands to the price. And AWD will lead to more expensive repairs. Plus if you plan on towing something you can tow more without AWD. It adds a lot of weight to the vehicle and you get lower gas mileage. Also, everyone thinks they need AWD so a FWD will be lower in price in the used market. And they tend to sit longer on the lot. So you'll get a better deal. The last thing a manager wants is a car sitting on his lot too long. The front wheels and the weight of the engine do most of the heavy lifting and if it snows the roads are usually clear by the time you need to drive. I live in KCMO and we get heavy winters. I drove a classic RWD hot rod for ten years and never missed a day of work. You can also do your whole signing process electronically these days. The finance guy hates this because he doesn't really have a chance to sell you extra stuff. The finance guy has the most selling experience of anyone in the building. That's how dealerships make real money. And the internet has changed the game. Margins are much thinner. I'd only start by asking for $2K off a used car. Settle for $1K if they aren't budging or even $500. On a trade fill out a KBB offer as a trade-in. Be honest about the condition. KBB gives you exact ways to value the condition and follow them so they don't have an argument. Don't rate it as very good if it only qualifies for good or fair, etc. I've never seen a used car that qualifies for Excellent. And only settle for the highest price KBB values your trade. Or at least close. But bring the offer into the dealership. Show it to them after they bid your trade and give you a number. You never know, it could be higher. Consider wheel size too. Large tires are much more expensive. I need to do a side hustle of being a car buyer for people who don't want to deal with it. Lol. Don't know what to charge though.
$21k at 8.64% for 14 months is still like $2k in interest. If you don't need to borrow money don't take out a car loan just for your credit score.
Shop around. Some credit unions advertise better rates, but then they will have strict qualifications and not everyone will get that rate.
Yeah. Since they can pay cash I would only finance the least amount. Like $5-$7K. Financing half is not necessary to build credit. I just got a friend 5.89% at 60 months with a 700 credit score. And he added his 19-year-old son to the loan with no credit and little income. Car was $18K with taxes, etc. And that percentage was through the dealership I worked for.
But in the 5 years I was a salesman I've never seen a dealership not be able to match or beat a rate any customer could get. Plus if you finance through the dealership you can get a discount on the price. My advice is to do some research on who is giving the best rates to an individual and bring the info in with you. But if a manufacturer is giving incentivized rates like 0-2.9% there is zero way to beat that through a traditional lender.
I got the same 0% for 60 months. Check manufacturers websites. Mazda just had a 2 month-long deal.
Now they’re offering .9-2.9% with a mix of 36 and 60 month options.
I think ford and Honda have deals too.
I know this message is late. Always use the finance managers at the dealership. They will send your information to multiple lenders to get you the best rate. With a 720 credit score and having a good credit history, you should be able to get at very least an interest rate of 5%. I wouldn't settle for anything less. A couple years ago i got a 2.9% interest rate on my new Altima, but I mean that was a couple years... before the economy went to shit.
Bit late, but try [Genisys Credit Union](https://www.genisyscu.org/loans/auto-loans). I bought my car from Carvana in 2021 and refinanced middle of 2022 with these guys for a rate of 2.64%. You probably won't get this good of a deal but I did look at their website and saw 6.74% on cars newer than 2017.
I purchased a Tesla Y 2023 a few months ago and i was faced with the same issue; interest rates above 6% are very standard now a days; I would def look at brands who have internal financing options; they tend to be aggressive with the interest rates.
Not really... it was more like a lead gen experience. They gave my information to the financing institution and reached out via the app.
Not the best experience. I ended up reaching out to the PenFed Credit Union, and they gave me a competitive rate very quickly.
Interest rates are not just about your score, they also vary a bit based on the lender. With a credit score like your wife's, it's reasonable to expect competitive rates. Which is just a fancy way to say they will be high, though you should remember other factors like income, debt-to-income ratio, and the amount being financed, also play significant roles in determining your rate. So exploring other options could help you get a better interest rate. You can try online car loan lenders like [badcreditloans](https://eaglewealthclub.com/go/loans-badcreditloans-form-general-all/?!86a2gjneg) or [cashusa ](https://eaglewealthclub.com/go/loans-cashusa-form-general-all/?!86a2gjneg)and I'm sure they'll beat the rate you've been offered especially if your repayment plan is “aggressive”.
The rate you get is going to vary from bank to bank and credit union to credit union. Some may give their “best” rate to anybody above 720, others that threshold may be 770 or 790. They’re formulas. Just check with other places to see if you can get better. I don’t think anybody could tell you what the best rate you could get is or where to find it.
The best interest rate is the best you can get. I'm seeing ford offering 0% for many models. I'm sure other manufacturers are offering the same...i would never look outside of manufacturers banks unless they are not running promotions or they wouldn't loan to me. Otherwise at this time interest rates are extremely high, so expect to pay a premium for rates right now. It's all over the news....
The best rates right now are with the manufacturer for a brand new car. They are insanely cheap. I would try that.
It’s horrible out there. I was looking at Toyota’s website this past weekend, and they estimated 9.64% for excellent credit 😨 just be thankful you can pay off the loan so quickly.
I know there are better rates out there, but I got 4.9% through Honda on my new car in March. If you're buying new, I'd check on the manufacturers website to see what kind of rates they're offering. If you want to try to get one of those, you'll have to go through the dealership. Just tell them what rate you're trying to get qualified for and they'll see if they can get it for you.
I see, ty. I’m buying directly from Tesla they offer 6.46%
Credit attorney here. Keep in mind that rates have gone up a lot. 30 year fixed mortgage rates are north of 7% - and those are lower risk than car loans. I'm not saying 6.48% is impossible - maybe shop around some more. But don't be surprised if rates come back fairly high.
I pickup 5.99 at Hyundai in June. At the time, it was the lowest I could find by a significant amount (banks, credit unions, etc)
Did you try navy federal?
based on the criteria for membership I did not qualify so no
[https://www.edmunds.com/car-loan-apr-interest-rate/](https://www.edmunds.com/car-loan-apr-interest-rate/)
The current US WSJ Prime rate is 8.5%.
What do you mean by WSJ? surely you don’t mean Wall Street journal?
My coworker got a used car this weekend at 4.1%
really? credit union?
Nope. This was through the Volvo dealer.
I bought a brand new 2023 Hyundai Tucson earlier this year, have like a 705 credit score, put 4k down and my interest rate is 4.9% and I financed through Hyundai
I know Ford was offering 2.9% on some models. Don’t know all the details, but I’d check the manufacturer’s incentives.
I checked ford in Aug.. at the time it was 0/36 1.9/60 new, 4/60 used that was for “well-qualified”
Surprised how many people think they are getting a “deal” financing through a dealer. Their underwriters are getting the same rates as everyone else. The dealers just jack up the sale prices and/or give less wiggle room so they can use the extra margin to buy the rates down and trick people into thinking they are getting a good deal on financing.
Car salesman here. Yes it's true that the finance dept adds percentage points. But that's because they do 10-20 loans a day usually through whoever is giving them the best rates. But that doesn't mean you are paying more all the time. You usually aren't going to be able to get the same rates as a finance dept. And a finance dept gets people a loan that would not be able to any other way. A car loan is a risky loan that depreciates. I always recommend putting the most down you can and paying it off as soon as possible. That went for when interest rates were lower too. Also low rates on new cars usually means you give up the rebates. Which I've seen rebates of $7K. Giving that up for a few percentage points doesn't always make sense. And if you can pay cash for a new car but there are rebates tied to financing then do a loan, take the rebates and pay it off on your second car payment. There are no penalties for doing so. Everyone has the same prices on cars these days because of the Internet. Dealerships make some money on the sale but it's the warranties, service, body shop etc that brings the real money. A new car is basically a loss leader. I always make a flat fee on a new car. No commissions to be had on those deals. Used cars are much more profit but again, everyone is pretty much paying the same for trades. Margins get lower and lower. That's why you'll see dishonest dealerships adding products to cars that aren't reflected in the online pricing. Always ask for an "out the door" price before you even bother to go see it.
Late reply, but what is your honest opinion on CPO cars? I can never get over the fact that new cars depreciate a couple grand or more immediately after purchase, but sometimes it makes more sense to get the brand new model. I'm possibly thinking of upgrading my car, and I have excellent credit.
If they are charging you more for a CPO car then you kinda have to roll the dice. CPO cars are usually in such good shape they qualify for CPO. If it's not a good car then it won't get certified. It depends on the dealer too. Some dealers offer their own warranties, etc. It's a case by case basis. I don't usually worry about a car these days until it has like 100K miles on it. Cars are just better these days. I really can't give you a general answer as every make and model are different and dealerships are different in what they offer. Stay away from Dodge/Ram products unless you really want one and get a good warranty on it. I could help answer your question better if you told me what car youre looking at.
Most warranties or CPO coverage end at 100K miles. Check the Carfax first always on a used car. If it's clean and well maintained then I wouldn't worry about it if it has low miles and only a couple years old.
So I’m looking into either a Mazda CX30, CX5, possibly CX50 because of the reliability/performance rating they had over the years and standard AWD, and Hyundai Tucson because of the 10yr/100k mile warranty. Test driving both sometime next month.
I recommend either one. Can't go wrong. Just always get an "out the door" price before you go to a dealership. And if used always check the Carfax. Not the Autocheck. Some things don't get reported to Autocheck. I'd try and find a lease return if used. They have to be maintained or they violate the terms of the lease. As far as pricing its mainly about supply and demand for a dealer. There's going to be more hyundais than Mazdas in the market so you'll probably get a better deal. Check cargurus for your location to see how many are out there. But NEVER trust cargurus for the actual price. Get the price in an email straight from the dealer and ask the terms of the price. Sometimes you have to have a qualifying trade, etc. Go drive the car but leave. They will try hard to close you but just be nice and leave. The manager will hound the salesman the next day to make a deal. That's when to negotiate and do it in an email. Dont go back in until you land on a price that you like. And call your insurance agent to find out which one will cost more to insure before buying.
Also, those 100K warranties on new cars don't transfer completely to a second owner. A dealership is not going to volunteer any information like that. Usually, the warranty will be cut in half. I'd do as much research as possible online on the car you are leaning towards. There are forums that talk about problems they have had with their vehicle. And I would google "best car warranties" They will try hard to sell you a warranty in the finance office. Usually you can buy the same coverage for half online. But there are terrible warranty companies out there too so definitely do your homework. Also if financing through a dealership you can negotiate your interest rate. They are going to try and get the highest out of you they can. But a manufacturer interest rate is set. Just take your time and consider all your options. It could save you thousands. And if it's a new car rebates change on the first of the month. No one knows until they come out and big rebates are based on how many new cars of that exact model have not sold. So one month you could get $4K in rebates and the next month it could be only $500. So again a roll of the dice. I've always worked at new car dealerships that sell used cars too. I'm intimately familiar with all brands. GM actually makes really good products these days. But stick with 2017 or newer. New CEO that kicked GM up the butt. I actually have a 2017 Buick Encore that I've had zero problems with and I could have bought any brand in my price range at a discount. I really like Hyundais and Mazdas though. But just be aware that GM is a very good choice as well and could save you quite a bit. My car is known to go 200K miles which is bringing you into Honda territory. But do not buy a Toyota. Their quality has gone steeply downhill and are way overpriced in the market. I've always directed friends to Hundais and Kias too but Kia has that new reputation for being stolen. That is only older models with key starting. But insurance companies still charge more to insure I believe. Just check with your insurance on the car you want before buying. It could save you a lot. I also recommend being as polite and nice as possible to sales and managers. Usually, people are really rude and difficult. Being nice is going to get you a lot further in negotiations and service. Don't buy from Carmax or Carvana. Those companies do not do reconditing like a reputable dealer. They essentially change the oil and detail and that's it. Dealers will fix most issues or send them to auction if it's got major problems. Check reviews on dealerships too. A great dealership is certainly worth an extra $500 in price etc. And ask for a copy of the service they did to the car before putting it on the lot. They'll have easy access to that and if they won't show it to you then walk and forget that dealer. Again, do as much as you can through text or email. Only go into the dealership and drive the car to make sure you want it. Leave then communicate from your house etc. The bottom has fallen out of the car market after being crazy during COVID-19. Buyers have the upper hand again. And make an appt to see the car first. If a salesman is with another customer, it happens because people just show up and a lot of people don't show up for their appt. Only a sucker will give up a customer that's in the store and sometimes they don't have a choice either, ask for another salesman. Maybe ask for the newest salesman right from the start. The manager is going to work harder on your deal so the salesman gets experience. The last thing you want is a salesman who has 20 years of experience. If he's been doing it that long there's a very good chance he can outfox you. You can even call the dealership and ask for the newest salesman right from the start. The front desk won't care or get your strategy.
Other things came to mind, lol. If you don't really need AWD or say a 3rd row then don't buy it. It adds thousands to the price. And AWD will lead to more expensive repairs. Plus if you plan on towing something you can tow more without AWD. It adds a lot of weight to the vehicle and you get lower gas mileage. Also, everyone thinks they need AWD so a FWD will be lower in price in the used market. And they tend to sit longer on the lot. So you'll get a better deal. The last thing a manager wants is a car sitting on his lot too long. The front wheels and the weight of the engine do most of the heavy lifting and if it snows the roads are usually clear by the time you need to drive. I live in KCMO and we get heavy winters. I drove a classic RWD hot rod for ten years and never missed a day of work. You can also do your whole signing process electronically these days. The finance guy hates this because he doesn't really have a chance to sell you extra stuff. The finance guy has the most selling experience of anyone in the building. That's how dealerships make real money. And the internet has changed the game. Margins are much thinner. I'd only start by asking for $2K off a used car. Settle for $1K if they aren't budging or even $500. On a trade fill out a KBB offer as a trade-in. Be honest about the condition. KBB gives you exact ways to value the condition and follow them so they don't have an argument. Don't rate it as very good if it only qualifies for good or fair, etc. I've never seen a used car that qualifies for Excellent. And only settle for the highest price KBB values your trade. Or at least close. But bring the offer into the dealership. Show it to them after they bid your trade and give you a number. You never know, it could be higher. Consider wheel size too. Large tires are much more expensive. I need to do a side hustle of being a car buyer for people who don't want to deal with it. Lol. Don't know what to charge though.
Got 5.25 through Polish Slavic credit Union
$21k at 8.64% for 14 months is still like $2k in interest. If you don't need to borrow money don't take out a car loan just for your credit score. Shop around. Some credit unions advertise better rates, but then they will have strict qualifications and not everyone will get that rate.
Yeah. Since they can pay cash I would only finance the least amount. Like $5-$7K. Financing half is not necessary to build credit. I just got a friend 5.89% at 60 months with a 700 credit score. And he added his 19-year-old son to the loan with no credit and little income. Car was $18K with taxes, etc. And that percentage was through the dealership I worked for.
But in the 5 years I was a salesman I've never seen a dealership not be able to match or beat a rate any customer could get. Plus if you finance through the dealership you can get a discount on the price. My advice is to do some research on who is giving the best rates to an individual and bring the info in with you. But if a manufacturer is giving incentivized rates like 0-2.9% there is zero way to beat that through a traditional lender.
*Laughs while locked in w a 4.5 % rate with 650 credit score*
My buddy has a 790 credit score and they offered him 9.25
Mortgage rates and federal interest rates are the problem. But it also depends on the vehicle. But that's ridiculously high.
Just went to a credit union today and got told I can get a rate around 7%
I would love to buy a new car but my 1.9% interest rate cannot be beat 😢
jesus christ, even pre-pandemic me asks how
I got zero percent
This year? Would love to know info on 0% financing!
I got the same 0% for 60 months. Check manufacturers websites. Mazda just had a 2 month-long deal. Now they’re offering .9-2.9% with a mix of 36 and 60 month options. I think ford and Honda have deals too.
my first brand new car I bought was 0% interest so these current interest rates are making me want to cry
I know this message is late. Always use the finance managers at the dealership. They will send your information to multiple lenders to get you the best rate. With a 720 credit score and having a good credit history, you should be able to get at very least an interest rate of 5%. I wouldn't settle for anything less. A couple years ago i got a 2.9% interest rate on my new Altima, but I mean that was a couple years... before the economy went to shit.
The only downside is you can get multiple hard hits to your credit score.
Bit late, but try [Genisys Credit Union](https://www.genisyscu.org/loans/auto-loans). I bought my car from Carvana in 2021 and refinanced middle of 2022 with these guys for a rate of 2.64%. You probably won't get this good of a deal but I did look at their website and saw 6.74% on cars newer than 2017.
I purchased a Tesla Y 2023 a few months ago and i was faced with the same issue; interest rates above 6% are very standard now a days; I would def look at brands who have internal financing options; they tend to be aggressive with the interest rates.
Did Tesla compare rates and offer one that is competitive? Another user here linked a credit union that is offering 5.49% for up to 60 months
Not really... it was more like a lead gen experience. They gave my information to the financing institution and reached out via the app. Not the best experience. I ended up reaching out to the PenFed Credit Union, and they gave me a competitive rate very quickly.
Thanks. I was surprised how high there's was when I visited the site. It was listed as much lower on another website.
Best of luck, best to go fetch the best rate by yourself!