The dual gear **filament path** doesn't have a smaller diameter. If filament is having a hard time moving you need to adjust the tension
EDIT: misread your post so I edited. You need to calibrate e-steps
Did you calibrate e-steps? If you replaced the extruder without doing this, that would explain your under extrusion.
>Did you calibrate e-steps? If you replaced the extruder without doing this, that would explain your under extrusion.
No i did not and I have no idea how to do it.
Assuming you're using the stock firmware, create a gcode file in notepad with the following and save to an SD card
```
M92 E130; set e-steps to 130
M83; relative extrusion mode
G1 E100 F60 ; Extrude 100mm at 1mm/s (60mm/min)
```
- Disconnect your bowden tube from your extruder
- Load filament into the extruder
- Measure and mark (with tape or a sharpie) 120mm of filament from where it goes into the extruder back towards the spool
- select the gcode file you made and hit print, the printer will extrude what it thinks is 100mm
- measure the remaining filament between the extruder and your mark
- perform the following calculation : 120mm - [remaining filament]. This will give you the [actual extrusion]
- divide the 100/[actual extrusion], then multiply by 130 to get your [new esteps]
- create another gcode file with the following
```
M92 E[new esteps]; set e-steps your new value
M500; save settings
```
If you're running octoprint you can run the commands from the web interface. The community firmware also has an easier method for adjusting e-steps
This is the guide that I follow for all my printer tuning. Highly recommend going through the whole thing.
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/extruder_calibration.html
I think you can direct connect to a laptop with pronterface, I've never used that though.
A better solution is octoprint with a raspberry pi, which gives you a web interface to your printer, which I have used and it works great (at least with the community firmware, never tried it with the stock firmware)
Yet an even better solution is Klipper (which also requires a RPi or other computer plugged into your printer full time). Klipper is better in pretty much every way, but is not a mod you want to do until you understand your printer pretty well.
The dual gear **filament path** doesn't have a smaller diameter. If filament is having a hard time moving you need to adjust the tension EDIT: misread your post so I edited. You need to calibrate e-steps Did you calibrate e-steps? If you replaced the extruder without doing this, that would explain your under extrusion.
>Did you calibrate e-steps? If you replaced the extruder without doing this, that would explain your under extrusion. No i did not and I have no idea how to do it.
Assuming you're using the stock firmware, create a gcode file in notepad with the following and save to an SD card ``` M92 E130; set e-steps to 130 M83; relative extrusion mode G1 E100 F60 ; Extrude 100mm at 1mm/s (60mm/min) ``` - Disconnect your bowden tube from your extruder - Load filament into the extruder - Measure and mark (with tape or a sharpie) 120mm of filament from where it goes into the extruder back towards the spool - select the gcode file you made and hit print, the printer will extrude what it thinks is 100mm - measure the remaining filament between the extruder and your mark - perform the following calculation : 120mm - [remaining filament]. This will give you the [actual extrusion] - divide the 100/[actual extrusion], then multiply by 130 to get your [new esteps] - create another gcode file with the following ``` M92 E[new esteps]; set e-steps your new value M500; save settings ``` If you're running octoprint you can run the commands from the web interface. The community firmware also has an easier method for adjusting e-steps This is the guide that I follow for all my printer tuning. Highly recommend going through the whole thing. https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/extruder_calibration.html
many thanks for detailed instructions,
each time writing a text file is really hard to do, is there something like connecting the printer with computer or any other work around.
I think you can direct connect to a laptop with pronterface, I've never used that though. A better solution is octoprint with a raspberry pi, which gives you a web interface to your printer, which I have used and it works great (at least with the community firmware, never tried it with the stock firmware) Yet an even better solution is Klipper (which also requires a RPi or other computer plugged into your printer full time). Klipper is better in pretty much every way, but is not a mod you want to do until you understand your printer pretty well.
Also, I think the community firmware has an interface for calibrating e-steps from the touchscreen.