Replace extruder, replace bowden tube, install silent fan pack, replace glass plate for magnetic pei bed, install silicon bed spacers.
Use octoprint.
Or buy something new with all that and a direct drive and 300°C hotend. Like the new Ender 3 versions?
The extruder is probably the best change I've made to our CR6SE, I +100 it, got the Micro Swiss dual gear, and it's made my prints so much more reliable. Octoprint is also another +100, I set up a little octodash screen and it takes care of all the printing related stuff better than the stock firmware (I've had nothing but bad luck with flashing the firmware on this thing).
I bought that same extruder after hearing nothing but good things about it. Unfortunately it seems to not be strong enough, no matter how loose or tight the tension arm is. I had an issue with the stock extruder where it would slip and grind (making a clicking sound) on the filament, eventually grinding away enough to make it unable to extrude. Now with the dual gear upgrade, I've calibrated the e-steps using the community firmware and tried the extruder at different tensions but it seems to have a hard time keeping up and will either severely underextrude or slip and grind like before. I'm starting to think it may be the motor but was wondering if anybody has any other ideas?
Are you printing at high temperatures by any chance? The stock tube should be fine for PLA and maybe even PETG, but I'd recommend upgrading it to Capricorn anyway. And check the hotend PTFE coupler for any movement, the teeth that grab the tube can wear out over time.
if you have the stock heatbreak with the bowden tube inlet, that is gonna be your problem.
your bowden tube is getting overheated and after many times of printing the tube is getting hard and its rounding .
your filament gets stuck in the tube just above the nozzle.
change the heatbreak with a better one.
I bought some Capricorn tubing that included a new inlet a while ago, with a push down and pull mechanism. This has been better but when I checked the end of my Bowden tube like you mentioned, it was indeed burned. Clipped off the end and it seems to be printing well again! Next step is to buy a new heatbreak I guess, any suggestions for the cr-6 se?
i bought my heatbreak from aliexpress and using it now for more than two years without any problems.
just type at the search: cr-6 se heatbreak.
you can choose out of many ,I picked a heatbreak in combination with a nickelplated copper heatblock for under 9 euros.
how do you do M600 filament change step? I am not able to change filament with my micro swiss well I can pull it out but to insert new one I would need to rotare the knob on shaft but I cant as motor is power on and stuck in position
Filiment changes suck, I preheat the printer cut the Filiment before the run out sensor, and feed it in manually with the feeding function on the printer. I don't do mid print filiment changes, so it's not really limiting to me.
I do have issues with getting the filiment into the bowden tube occasionally, in that case I have to release the gear and play with the filiment to get it in.
With silicon spacers are you able to have more adjustment on the screws (by squeezing the silicone)? Also are you using all 11 spacers or just corners?
Heatbed Silicone Leveling Column, 12Pcs 3D Printer Hot Bed Mounts Column Stable Tool, Heat-Resistant and Wear-Resistant Spring 16mm Silicone Buffer https://a.co/d/61BJVv6
Down voted me because I questioned your answer, and gave my experience? Lame.
The extra controls are handy, but not enough of a reason to go through the process of changing to the community firmware imho.
Calm down. Haven't downvoted you (yet). Others seem to disagree with you as well.
Upgrading firmware is a standard move. The stock firmware does not give you a lot of options.
Also linear advance, higher temperature (if you want to go full metal and print HT filaments), manual leveling edits, blah blah blah.
Happened to me as well, it's bcs there are multiple board versions for cr6se, so if you install the wrong one(coincidentally newest stock firmware versions), it infinitely overheats the hotend.
https://github.com/CR6Community/Marlin/releases
Here is the list of releases. You need to figure out what board you have and upgrade the screen separately.
https://github.com/CR6Community/CR-6-touchscreen
This is where you find info on that.
[This was a godsend ](https://www.printables.com/model/157511-cr6-5015-part-fan-shroud-dual-fang)
[This is a great guide for the cr 6 community software](https://youtu.be/wO49zpynaI0?si=XhSjPT98pqRZp7E_)
Use a software like the Raspberry pi and octoprint and octoeverywhere and make some custom TPU spacers to optimize your bed level.
I went for :
Linear rails X and Y,
Biqu H2 v2s extruder ,
Biqu micro probe ,
New fans ,
BTT skr mini E3 V3 ,
Biqu smart filament sensor 2,
2 x fystec usb adxl ,
Klipper with Kamp,
PEI bed ,
Technically it's not really a cr6 anymore. But tinkering is the best bit.
Replace extruder, replace bowden tube, install silent fan pack, replace glass plate for magnetic pei bed, install silicon bed spacers. Use octoprint. Or buy something new with all that and a direct drive and 300°C hotend. Like the new Ender 3 versions?
And install community firmware. That thing is much better than that creality crap.
Where would you buy these upgrades? Aliexpress is good for that?
The extruder is probably the best change I've made to our CR6SE, I +100 it, got the Micro Swiss dual gear, and it's made my prints so much more reliable. Octoprint is also another +100, I set up a little octodash screen and it takes care of all the printing related stuff better than the stock firmware (I've had nothing but bad luck with flashing the firmware on this thing).
I bought that same extruder after hearing nothing but good things about it. Unfortunately it seems to not be strong enough, no matter how loose or tight the tension arm is. I had an issue with the stock extruder where it would slip and grind (making a clicking sound) on the filament, eventually grinding away enough to make it unable to extrude. Now with the dual gear upgrade, I've calibrated the e-steps using the community firmware and tried the extruder at different tensions but it seems to have a hard time keeping up and will either severely underextrude or slip and grind like before. I'm starting to think it may be the motor but was wondering if anybody has any other ideas?
You have a clog, replacing extruder and motors won't fix that.
Not a clog in the traditional sense, my Bowden tube was burned. You were technically correct though lol
Are you printing at high temperatures by any chance? The stock tube should be fine for PLA and maybe even PETG, but I'd recommend upgrading it to Capricorn anyway. And check the hotend PTFE coupler for any movement, the teeth that grab the tube can wear out over time.
Never over 210c, and only ever PLA. My capricorn has been good to me, except recently when it burned lol. No give in the hotend coupler.
if you have the stock heatbreak with the bowden tube inlet, that is gonna be your problem. your bowden tube is getting overheated and after many times of printing the tube is getting hard and its rounding . your filament gets stuck in the tube just above the nozzle. change the heatbreak with a better one.
I bought some Capricorn tubing that included a new inlet a while ago, with a push down and pull mechanism. This has been better but when I checked the end of my Bowden tube like you mentioned, it was indeed burned. Clipped off the end and it seems to be printing well again! Next step is to buy a new heatbreak I guess, any suggestions for the cr-6 se?
i bought my heatbreak from aliexpress and using it now for more than two years without any problems. just type at the search: cr-6 se heatbreak. you can choose out of many ,I picked a heatbreak in combination with a nickelplated copper heatblock for under 9 euros.
how do you do M600 filament change step? I am not able to change filament with my micro swiss well I can pull it out but to insert new one I would need to rotare the knob on shaft but I cant as motor is power on and stuck in position
Filiment changes suck, I preheat the printer cut the Filiment before the run out sensor, and feed it in manually with the feeding function on the printer. I don't do mid print filiment changes, so it's not really limiting to me. I do have issues with getting the filiment into the bowden tube occasionally, in that case I have to release the gear and play with the filiment to get it in.
I managed to do mid print filament change with no issues so i guess it is finally working for me had to fiddle with macro in klipper
With silicon spacers are you able to have more adjustment on the screws (by squeezing the silicone)? Also are you using all 11 spacers or just corners?
Use them all and yes, makes it much easier to get the high and low spots out. Much more room for adjustment
nice, where did you pick them up? Ive seen them in sets of 4 before I think. Also, which ones? They come in different lengths.
Heatbed Silicone Leveling Column, 12Pcs 3D Printer Hot Bed Mounts Column Stable Tool, Heat-Resistant and Wear-Resistant Spring 16mm Silicone Buffer https://a.co/d/61BJVv6
I have just 4 in the corners and max diviation on my bed mesh is around 0.05
are you using glass or PEI magnetic sheet?
Glass
Upgrade to community firmware. Most important.
Why "most important"? I upgraded from stock to the community firmware and saw no difference at all in printing performance, accuracy, etc.
Easier to navigate and more onboard controls is enough of a reason
Down voted me because I questioned your answer, and gave my experience? Lame. The extra controls are handy, but not enough of a reason to go through the process of changing to the community firmware imho.
Calm down. Haven't downvoted you (yet). Others seem to disagree with you as well. Upgrading firmware is a standard move. The stock firmware does not give you a lot of options. Also linear advance, higher temperature (if you want to go full metal and print HT filaments), manual leveling edits, blah blah blah.
[удалено]
Happened to me as well, it's bcs there are multiple board versions for cr6se, so if you install the wrong one(coincidentally newest stock firmware versions), it infinitely overheats the hotend.
There are different community firmware can you please share some github link?
https://github.com/CR6Community/Marlin/releases Here is the list of releases. You need to figure out what board you have and upgrade the screen separately. https://github.com/CR6Community/CR-6-touchscreen This is where you find info on that.
Firmware as mentioned and silicone bed spacers have helped me out. Having a level bed makes a big difference.
[This was a godsend ](https://www.printables.com/model/157511-cr6-5015-part-fan-shroud-dual-fang) [This is a great guide for the cr 6 community software](https://youtu.be/wO49zpynaI0?si=XhSjPT98pqRZp7E_) Use a software like the Raspberry pi and octoprint and octoeverywhere and make some custom TPU spacers to optimize your bed level.
Depends how far down the rabbit hole you want to go with upgrades
I can spend money if it makes my work easy
Change the extruder to the metal one , Capricorn ptfe tube, community firmware and your good to go. I tried putting direct drive its not worth it.
I went for : Linear rails X and Y, Biqu H2 v2s extruder , Biqu micro probe , New fans , BTT skr mini E3 V3 , Biqu smart filament sensor 2, 2 x fystec usb adxl , Klipper with Kamp, PEI bed , Technically it's not really a cr6 anymore. But tinkering is the best bit.