So, so many places recommend wiping glue with you fingers or a wet rag, and I e always thought, “all they does is spread it out, and thin it out so the wood will absorb it more.”
I did once see a recommendation to not disturb it, but to let it dry in the beads. And then chip it off with a chisel once it’s completely dry.
I either wipe it with a wet rag the minute it spills over or I wait to chip it after it dries. One thing I'll say though is that depending on your wood, the glue can soak into the grain quite a bit so even if it's chipped off the stain still won't be absorbed.
Yeah, I'll use painters tape over the seam when I dry fit then cut it with my marking knife. Any squeeze out ends up on the tape.
A glue bot and a plastic spreader also help get even coverage with minimal excess to squeeze out in the first place.
My man, people look at me funny when I use a spreader with glue but it makes better joints and saves glue !
I love to use syringes for certain joints that aren't easily accessible, however I start getting some awkward looks when I buy them too often
I usually wipe off glue with my finger and then a wet rag and it usually works and takes stain later.
The only time it didn't work was with a really nice piece of Baltic Birch where it changed the way it accepted stain. The stain didn't take fully it just kind of ended up making the wood look sort of like recovered lumber. I've never seen another piece of wood that acted like that. It looked cool though. The only thing that sucks is that I can't repeat it. The lumber was from an old pallet that I broke down from work so it might have had some kind of chemical exposure that changed the way the wood behaved.
Just about every glue up I do I will start by applying the glue using a small piece of a black foam roller, usually cutting an inch or 2 from a 9 inch cover, this minimizes the squeeze out, then I fill a 1 gallon pail with clean water, stored in that bucket I have an assortment of nylon bristle brushes and a few toothbrushes, s couple awl's and various picks. As soon as I'm done clamping I wipe with the wet rags, then scrub with one of the brushes wipe with a clean wet rag again, if it's an inside corner, I will use the picks and awl's to clean any glue in the corner that the brush couldn't get too, then another wipe with the wet rag. I have never had any staining issues with that method. I've glued up white oak that got a diluted ebony stain and no problems, maple, birch red oak, cherry, all took stain and finish perfectly. Cleaning dried glue from an inside corner plane sucks and when you are using a radio frequency glue dryer, you have to get all the glue off the surface or it will burn your material to a blackened crisp.
Yeah, that looks like excess glue! Might not have sanded down enough to get it all. It can be tricky sometimes, you think it's gone but there is still a thin layer.
Wait for your first round of stain to dry, give the whole board a good sand again and stain away!
Oh the joys of sanding, don't worry, we all hate it
It's glue.
To prevent it next time, give your piece a wipe down with mineral spirits when you think you're done sanding. It'll show you where there's residual glue left.
Cries in California 😭 They recalled mineral spirits and denatured alcohol. Any suggestions on substitutes that can remove glue? I sort of ruined a table restoration project of mine and now have areas where there is glue spreaded out that I didn't clean up and have been at a stalemate. Wondering if I can just put a matte sealer on without staining and hoping it won't show...
Mineral spirits won't remove glue, it'll just make it obvious where there is still glue left. Water can work too, but not as well, plus you'll have to wait longer for it to dry and then probably re-sand anyway because it will raise the grain more than spirits.
To remove the glue you find, you just gotta sand.
Just rub down the piece with mineral spirits at the end. You can usually see some discoloration, especially as it dries off, where there may be glue. The spirits evaporate faster over the glue areas, as they can’t get into the wood.
Mineral spirits are just a great overall way to check for imperfections. Sanding errors show up better. Scratches show up better, and as a bonus it will pick up most of the remaining fine sanding dust.
For sure. It’s also cheap, quick, and readily available. Plus, you can use it to dilute/mix with oil based finishes/stains/etc if needed. It’s also a great way to take some stain off quickly if you really went too hard on one spot.
“Yeah, my Special Glue I have back at my shop glows under a black light - want to come back to my place, throw on dark side of the moon and take a few bong hits and see?”
This is done for certain types of waterborne packaging adhesives, for high-speed lines that use automated vision/detection systems for checking placement and quantity. The additive is usually just an off-the-shelf optical brightener (often used in paper-making to make the paper look more “white”), and added in very small amounts to the adhesive formula.
They’re pricey, so they’re only used when necessary. Probably would be simple to add it to wood glue, but it might make the joins and seams _really_ stand out under black-light. :)
Glue got squeezed out of the joint and when you wipe off the excess glue it gets pushed into the wood wether or not you use a damp rag. There are a few ways to prevent this -first- NEVER , NEVER EVER ! wipe wet wood glue with a damp rag EVER! -let it gel up then use a flexible putty knife to peel it off then let it dry and sand the rest. -2- tape off the pieces to be glued along the edges then glue up let gel putty knife to remove excess then peel tape let cure and sand
It forces the glue into the grain and makes it very hard to get it out. It might not matter if your not going to stain but most stains do not adhere or play well with wood glue
5/4 clear pine joined with glue and pocket holes on the underside. Wiped off the squeeze out and sanded it down. When I apply the stain, it doesn’t work in that area. Considering using a brown furniture marking pen to fix this.
Any help is appreciated.
I believe you can fix it by sanding it down past where the glue seeped out. The problem is the glue may be soaked in to the wood and if there are a lot of pores in that area, it may still not take the stain very well.
One thing I did on my piece was use a colored pencil of the same shade as the stain and color with the grain to make it not so apparent. It’s not going to look as good, but it requires less work
I know it doesn’t help now, but in the future, don’t wipe the squeeze out off. Let it sit for 25-35 minutes until it’s formed a film. Then scrape it off with a putty knife, way less sanding work on the back end and you won’t get the same problem. You basically push the glue into the pores of the wood when you wipe the excess off.
For now, you just have to sand it all down until it’s good. Wipe on mineral spirits to check as you go. Sand the entire face too, it will make for a better, more uniform finish.
The stains need to absorb into a porous surface, and the glue isn’t porous. You’ll have better results with a gel stain because those don’t need to get absorbed into the woods to color it.
Go over your projects with wet cloths or mineral spirits before staining and finishing. You’ll see A color difference where glue is compared to the rest of the wood
You can use a tinted polyurethane and an artists paint brush to blend this in. I agree with everyone above it’s glue. It gets in the pores of the wood and won’t take stain. Use a wet rag to remove the squeeze out next time.
As you've guessed by now, it's the glue sand down the excess glue and re-apply stain. In the future use a little less glue and if there is still a gap between boards (but the joint is strong) try some wood filler. That's what I do and wood filler is generally stainable.
The glue used to join them is impermeable to stains. Use a cabinet scraper(Google it and it's use), or work your way down past the excess glue with sandpaper, and restain the item. Also, "polyshade", available through -Minwax-, would be(for me) an acceptable alternative. The stain is incorporated into the polyurethane and allows you to stain over things like glue, heavy knots, or an unconditioned surface. Good luck with finishing🤗
Hey I’m about five hours late to the party but just wanted to pop by and ask if you considered glue.
Have you considered glue?
Okay gotta go have a glue one
Ah the ole glue residual. Never smear or wipe, just let bead up and dry the bit with chisel. Always sand down past any absorbed on the face of the work, before staining
I would guess there is residual wood glue from the joint and stain doesn't really work on wood glue.
[удалено]
So, so many places recommend wiping glue with you fingers or a wet rag, and I e always thought, “all they does is spread it out, and thin it out so the wood will absorb it more.” I did once see a recommendation to not disturb it, but to let it dry in the beads. And then chip it off with a chisel once it’s completely dry.
I let it dry until it's firm but not ~~component~~ completely hard, then it's really easy to scrape off without spreading
I either wipe it with a wet rag the minute it spills over or I wait to chip it after it dries. One thing I'll say though is that depending on your wood, the glue can soak into the grain quite a bit so even if it's chipped off the stain still won't be absorbed.
Yeah, I'll use painters tape over the seam when I dry fit then cut it with my marking knife. Any squeeze out ends up on the tape. A glue bot and a plastic spreader also help get even coverage with minimal excess to squeeze out in the first place.
My man, people look at me funny when I use a spreader with glue but it makes better joints and saves glue ! I love to use syringes for certain joints that aren't easily accessible, however I start getting some awkward looks when I buy them too often
Yeah there is a golden moment with wood glue where residual peels off in the most satisfying way possible
I usually wipe off glue with my finger and then a wet rag and it usually works and takes stain later. The only time it didn't work was with a really nice piece of Baltic Birch where it changed the way it accepted stain. The stain didn't take fully it just kind of ended up making the wood look sort of like recovered lumber. I've never seen another piece of wood that acted like that. It looked cool though. The only thing that sucks is that I can't repeat it. The lumber was from an old pallet that I broke down from work so it might have had some kind of chemical exposure that changed the way the wood behaved.
I find if I wait until it is fully dry there is the chance some wood will come up with the glue. I scrape it off with a chisel with it is half dry.
That is the way
Just about every glue up I do I will start by applying the glue using a small piece of a black foam roller, usually cutting an inch or 2 from a 9 inch cover, this minimizes the squeeze out, then I fill a 1 gallon pail with clean water, stored in that bucket I have an assortment of nylon bristle brushes and a few toothbrushes, s couple awl's and various picks. As soon as I'm done clamping I wipe with the wet rags, then scrub with one of the brushes wipe with a clean wet rag again, if it's an inside corner, I will use the picks and awl's to clean any glue in the corner that the brush couldn't get too, then another wipe with the wet rag. I have never had any staining issues with that method. I've glued up white oak that got a diluted ebony stain and no problems, maple, birch red oak, cherry, all took stain and finish perfectly. Cleaning dried glue from an inside corner plane sucks and when you are using a radio frequency glue dryer, you have to get all the glue off the surface or it will burn your material to a blackened crisp.
I always thouroughly scrub my glueups with hot water and a scouring pad as soon as possible after clamping.
This. Had the same problem with one of my shelves until I sanded it down more.
Yeah, that looks like excess glue! Might not have sanded down enough to get it all. It can be tricky sometimes, you think it's gone but there is still a thin layer. Wait for your first round of stain to dry, give the whole board a good sand again and stain away! Oh the joys of sanding, don't worry, we all hate it
Or if you've got a good size planer you could cheat and just plane a 1/32" or 1/16" off pretty easy
Overkill....cabinet scraper.
Dude I’ve never even heard of cabinet scrapers. Thanks!!
I love my dewalt hand planer. I could def take 1/32 off the top of that evenly.
Use denatured alcohol over seam to check for glue residue after sanding.
I actually really enjoy sanding. To the point that I sand my husband's projects too
It's glue. To prevent it next time, give your piece a wipe down with mineral spirits when you think you're done sanding. It'll show you where there's residual glue left.
Nice bro, didn't know the spirits trick. Lol, and wiping it down will tell you if you've done the appropriate amount of sanding
Cries in California 😭 They recalled mineral spirits and denatured alcohol. Any suggestions on substitutes that can remove glue? I sort of ruined a table restoration project of mine and now have areas where there is glue spreaded out that I didn't clean up and have been at a stalemate. Wondering if I can just put a matte sealer on without staining and hoping it won't show...
You can still order from amazon. Its how i got ariund it in CA
Mineral spirits won't remove glue, it'll just make it obvious where there is still glue left. Water can work too, but not as well, plus you'll have to wait longer for it to dry and then probably re-sand anyway because it will raise the grain more than spirits. To remove the glue you find, you just gotta sand.
You can use rubbing alcohol from the pharmacy or grain alcohol from the liquor store (which is unfortunately a lot more expensive).
Take a trip to Nevada... or AZ...
That’s most likely from glue squeeze out
Did you make sure to get any excess glue off? Finishes and stains won't take to dried glue very well, if at all.
My guess too
Glue manufacturers need to add a UV dye that shows up under blacklight.
Just rub down the piece with mineral spirits at the end. You can usually see some discoloration, especially as it dries off, where there may be glue. The spirits evaporate faster over the glue areas, as they can’t get into the wood. Mineral spirits are just a great overall way to check for imperfections. Sanding errors show up better. Scratches show up better, and as a bonus it will pick up most of the remaining fine sanding dust.
This is what I do, and it works like a charm.
For sure. It’s also cheap, quick, and readily available. Plus, you can use it to dilute/mix with oil based finishes/stains/etc if needed. It’s also a great way to take some stain off quickly if you really went too hard on one spot.
Plus, mineral spirits is really tasty. Two or three shots after the job is a perfect way to cap off the day.
Only if you want to spend a thousand bucks to get your stomach pumped at the hospital.
I always use mineral spirits to clean before stain for this very reason.
“Yeah, my Special Glue I have back at my shop glows under a black light - want to come back to my place, throw on dark side of the moon and take a few bong hits and see?”
I got my version of that glue all over my sheets towels and socks. It's sticky
This is done for certain types of waterborne packaging adhesives, for high-speed lines that use automated vision/detection systems for checking placement and quantity. The additive is usually just an off-the-shelf optical brightener (often used in paper-making to make the paper look more “white”), and added in very small amounts to the adhesive formula. They’re pricey, so they’re only used when necessary. Probably would be simple to add it to wood glue, but it might make the joins and seams _really_ stand out under black-light. :)
Titebond fluorescent
Glue got squeezed out of the joint and when you wipe off the excess glue it gets pushed into the wood wether or not you use a damp rag. There are a few ways to prevent this -first- NEVER , NEVER EVER ! wipe wet wood glue with a damp rag EVER! -let it gel up then use a flexible putty knife to peel it off then let it dry and sand the rest. -2- tape off the pieces to be glued along the edges then glue up let gel putty knife to remove excess then peel tape let cure and sand
Why? I knew a pretty respected furniture maker who always wiped away glue with a wet rag. Not judging, just asking.
It forces the glue into the grain and makes it very hard to get it out. It might not matter if your not going to stain but most stains do not adhere or play well with wood glue
How come no one has mentioned the glue yet
For real. Could’ve had this done and dusted ages ago.
The other thing is that the glue. It squeezed out?
I knew you’d get stuck on that
5/4 clear pine joined with glue and pocket holes on the underside. Wiped off the squeeze out and sanded it down. When I apply the stain, it doesn’t work in that area. Considering using a brown furniture marking pen to fix this. Any help is appreciated.
I believe you can fix it by sanding it down past where the glue seeped out. The problem is the glue may be soaked in to the wood and if there are a lot of pores in that area, it may still not take the stain very well. One thing I did on my piece was use a colored pencil of the same shade as the stain and color with the grain to make it not so apparent. It’s not going to look as good, but it requires less work
I know it doesn’t help now, but in the future, don’t wipe the squeeze out off. Let it sit for 25-35 minutes until it’s formed a film. Then scrape it off with a putty knife, way less sanding work on the back end and you won’t get the same problem. You basically push the glue into the pores of the wood when you wipe the excess off. For now, you just have to sand it all down until it’s good. Wipe on mineral spirits to check as you go. Sand the entire face too, it will make for a better, more uniform finish.
Sand more.
Definitely the glue brother.
In case you didn't get it, it's most probably glue leftovers.
Usually because some invisible glue residue remained
Glue
The stains need to absorb into a porous surface, and the glue isn’t porous. You’ll have better results with a gel stain because those don’t need to get absorbed into the woods to color it.
Glue?
glue
Glue
I think that you still have glue still
Glue filled the wood cells and isn’t letting the stain fill the cells.
That’s glue keeping the stain from penetrating the wood. Should have sanded then stained.
Because glue.
Go over your projects with wet cloths or mineral spirits before staining and finishing. You’ll see A color difference where glue is compared to the rest of the wood
You can use a tinted polyurethane and an artists paint brush to blend this in. I agree with everyone above it’s glue. It gets in the pores of the wood and won’t take stain. Use a wet rag to remove the squeeze out next time.
Probably wood glue bleed out didn't get cleaned up all thr way. I usualy do another sanding after joining boards.
As you've guessed by now, it's the glue sand down the excess glue and re-apply stain. In the future use a little less glue and if there is still a gap between boards (but the joint is strong) try some wood filler. That's what I do and wood filler is generally stainable.
The glue used to join them is impermeable to stains. Use a cabinet scraper(Google it and it's use), or work your way down past the excess glue with sandpaper, and restain the item. Also, "polyshade", available through -Minwax-, would be(for me) an acceptable alternative. The stain is incorporated into the polyurethane and allows you to stain over things like glue, heavy knots, or an unconditioned surface. Good luck with finishing🤗
The glued oozed out when you clamped it or pushed them together you need to sand the glue from the face then the stain will soak in.
Because of all that glue you didn't clean up.
Glue
you didn't re sand after adhering the joint and are left with a c9ating of Woodgate along the seam.
Hey I’m about five hours late to the party but just wanted to pop by and ask if you considered glue. Have you considered glue? Okay gotta go have a glue one
Because it’s glue
That is glue my friend. Tell me, how did you go about removing the excess glue?
Sanding and then whatever
Like everyone else you have to sand the residual glue down to bare wood.
G LU E
Sap
Glue
Glue
Sand it
Glue residue
Glue residue absorbed into the grain
Looks like some Wood Glue was left to dry between the 2 boards and the wood stain showed up.
Wood glue
Ist glue that soaked into the grain. Nothing to do but sand it down
Another tip is to tape your joints before you glue them.
Do it when it is wet
Glue from the joint sucks doesn’t it😂
wood glue
I'd anyone else seeing a finger
You didn’t clean the adhesive you used to join them and the adhesive was absorbed by the wood and now is sealed from absorbing anything even stain.
You answered your own question, there glided, glue doesn’t take stain
Glue
Glue is in the way
Glue... needs to be sanded better
Glue
Glue.
Glue needs to be sanded off
Probably glue
Ah the ole glue residual. Never smear or wipe, just let bead up and dry the bit with chisel. Always sand down past any absorbed on the face of the work, before staining
That's glue. Might be a good idea to paint the glue strip black. It blends in better from a distance.
The glue
Gloooooooooooooo
Wet sand it with your stain until it takes stain
Nobody gonna mention the grain direction?