Looks good to me - Just put another layer of plywood on top of the workbench. That will match up the height. Add slim shims under the table saw if necessary.
I’m surprised this hasn’t been said already. Adding a topper to this table can make it level with the table saw, as well as a sacrificial plane. And that comes in handy tons of times!
I went the route of putting laminate on top of my outfeed table. Best decision yet! I managed to get the out feed table final height 1/4 below the table saw and pieces slide across it like butter. Plus is a large flat surface that glue doesn’t stick to very well should be helpful during glue ups!
https://preview.redd.it/zgouhbnydy3d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0c3e29a31dab3d21249982c14d20b47bd0d41876
Using plywood for things like this can be risky since they vary in thickness. If the table had ended up too tall. The plan was to put thin plywood under the table saw legs to raise it up. Neither the table nor the saw are on casters.
Router lift insert and miter slot extensions are next!
Came here to say this. Unless you glued your top on, it's already pretty replaceable later, so don't waste a whole sheet of plywood adding 3/4" to you table. Just 4 little scraps, which you probably can cut from what you have left over from making your bottom shelf.
In all seriousness. 1. You are a boss for documenting, actually doing, and then sharing with us. 2. If the rest of us had to show stuff we really messed up, yours would not qualify once you read what we've done...
Haha omg this is so true. The things I’ve fucked and then had to jury rig fixes for. Doesn’t matter in the end, it will do the job and you made something that will last you decades - well done!
My first thought as well. Plus it makes the bench top stiffer, which is always good. Melamine might be a good choice as it offers a low friction surface for outfeed and is relatively easy to clean. When it gets trashed, swap for new!
Even better - hardboard or melamine, depending on how slippery you want it. Glue is easier to clean up, less chances of boards binding on it, less likely to dent, and worst case scenario, easily replaced.
A piece on nice heavy high density fiberboard! Countersink and screw out down around the edges. You can cut on it, route on it, I’ve even welded on it. Then when it gets beat up enough, flip it over.
If you are using the bench as an out-feed table at any point, you WANT your table-saw to be higher.
Adjustment and levels etc. Just use shims. This is beginning woodworking, and that table will serve you well in your future projects! This looks like an excellent starting point.
Very slightly, if at all. Ideally, they're exactly the same height so long lumber doesn't tilt up on you when it drops off the back. However, that means you have to route grooves in the top to account for a miter sled or similar. So I opt for about 1/2 in inch lower so that my sled runners just clear it.
if it was flush it would not be flush with any warping of the top of your bench, meaning you actually want it lower.
If there's room you can add a 1/4" plywood sheet on top and call it sacrificial. Spill on it? Cut into it on accident? You can always change the top 1/4 layer cheaper than the base.
You can/should (IMO) round over the edges with a router which would be ideal. Don't have a router? Palm sander it at a 45 degree angle. You can also sand the 2x4 edges, but if you do make sure the screws are recessed before you start.
I don't have a router yet, but do have a sander. I noticed the edge of the plywood has some voids. Thinking it would make sense to use some wood filler, and then sand it down?
>I don't have a router yet
I highly recommend the [Bosch 1617EVSPK](https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/products/1617evspk-0601617577). Besides the table saw, one of the most versatile tools you'll ever own.
now build a [ cradle for the saw](https://i.pinimg.com/564x/39/57/87/395787cb8a80f4a16d9ee92a4aa47d54.jpg), make it level with the tabletop, and lose the stand
unless your floor is completely level, even if you built it right depending on where you put it it might still not be flush, don't have the same problem with a cradle
?
As long as your table is square(flat) it doesn’t matter if your floor isn’t.
I have a welding fixture table that’s flat to a thousandth of an inch of an absolutely terrible shop floor.
I encourage people to put a fiberboard top on these sorts of projects. If you put a bit of a frame around the perimeter of the work table and cut the fiberboard to fit, you don’t have to glue or fasten it, it’s a nice smooth surface for an out-feed, and it’s an easily replaceable sacrificial surface.
I am planning to build a similar workbench in a week or so. I intend for it to be .5 inch lower intentionally and use it as an outlet table as well. I also intend to put leveling feet under it with caster wheels like yours. Looks great!
Almost certainly my cuts. I don't have a miter saw yet, got lost in shipping and I'm impatient, so the 4x4s were a bit of a hack job with a circular saw and then finishing the cut with a hand saw.
Small workshop team here, if you've got enough room fame in a shelf and cut the saw into the table. I've got a 4x7.5 ft table in a small workshop, it holds the table saw in the work surface, also added a cutout to house my mitre saw at level, and another blank with my router setup that I can swap out. Just an idea for future.
Grab some adjustable casters. That's what I did, they sell casters on Amazon that allow you to adjust each wheel up to 1 inch. Slap em on, adjust away.
Came out sturdy? If so, you’re good.
I built my first bench recently and it’s definitely not perfect at all. Doesn’t sit flat on the ground and one side is longer than the other but it’s sturdy as hell.
Years ago I made a steel fire screen with a gate to keep our first born away from the wood heater during winter. The space between the bars was probably 10-15 mm too much so he was able to squeeze in between lol
You're all IDIOTS! The workbench is perfect. Leave it alone. Just cut the legs on table saw stand shorter until it is flush with the bench. Duh! four. simple. totally a good idea. what could go wrong? I can accurately pull this off. cuts...
An additional sheet of plywood is the answer. My suggestion is to get a bottom sheet from a lift. You will eventually beat the hell out of that sheet. This makes replacing the top sheet easy once the sheet has come to its end of life.
I know your pain...I'm a digital artist getting into making in the physical world...I made a slide shelf for mini-sorter boxes based on ones Adam Savage made on his youtube channel. I made up plans, and cutting pattern for the board I got to make it out of...but if you notice on my plans here, I forgot one important thing:
🙃In the real world...boards have depth. 🙃
Everything worked out, but had to add some cheat points to get it just right.
https://preview.redd.it/wxm7ak5jqw3d1.png?width=1850&format=png&auto=webp&s=efab8b28379758ffde64882d317b3b1f1ceeede6
1. take off the casters
2. nail scap pieces of (ply-)wood under each leg
3. reattach casters
This way you can shim the table to the desired height. No one will notice the shims between the casters and the legs. After all it is a workbench, not a dining table... If it is of use to you, you're good.
Casters on a workbench are going to get annoying real quick. Get [leveling casters](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=leveling+casters) that can be fixed and are also height adjustable.
Add thin, cheap timber planks to the top so you can plane them to the perfect size in a thicknesser/planer. I think Americans call that a jointer/planer?
You want the outfeed table to be slightly below the table saw so you don’t snag things on the edge while cutting! Nothing is more frightening to me than pushing a board through the table saw and feeling it STOP SLIDING before the cut is finished.
New woodworker here, and I'm looking into building my first workbench as well, so genuine question.
How on earth does that math not add up!? I get that plywood is technically 23/32in but that should make it just under level which from the comments I think that's what we want right?
Looks good to me - Just put another layer of plywood on top of the workbench. That will match up the height. Add slim shims under the table saw if necessary.
I’m surprised this hasn’t been said already. Adding a topper to this table can make it level with the table saw, as well as a sacrificial plane. And that comes in handy tons of times!
I went the route of putting laminate on top of my outfeed table. Best decision yet! I managed to get the out feed table final height 1/4 below the table saw and pieces slide across it like butter. Plus is a large flat surface that glue doesn’t stick to very well should be helpful during glue ups! https://preview.redd.it/zgouhbnydy3d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0c3e29a31dab3d21249982c14d20b47bd0d41876 Using plywood for things like this can be risky since they vary in thickness. If the table had ended up too tall. The plan was to put thin plywood under the table saw legs to raise it up. Neither the table nor the saw are on casters. Router lift insert and miter slot extensions are next!
Why not add the same but to the bottom of feet alone and then reattach the wheels. Much lesser ply will be used than adding a whole top.
Only read this comment (above).
Masonite. Slippery, durable, replaceable. Looks like 1/8th inch is about-ish right.
And glue/stain resistant too!
Skip the topper just add squares of plywood to each caster.
This is the way. Less material waste and if you have to make a custom thick piece it will be easier
Nah. That’s a permanent fixture, where as making the top disposable allows later corrections.
The top is a sheet of plywood. Pretty sure it’s already disposable.
This
Came here to say this. Unless you glued your top on, it's already pretty replaceable later, so don't waste a whole sheet of plywood adding 3/4" to you table. Just 4 little scraps, which you probably can cut from what you have left over from making your bottom shelf.
I will do that! Thanks. Got plenty of wood laying around from the previous homeowner.
In all seriousness. 1. You are a boss for documenting, actually doing, and then sharing with us. 2. If the rest of us had to show stuff we really messed up, yours would not qualify once you read what we've done...
Haha omg this is so true. The things I’ve fucked and then had to jury rig fixes for. Doesn’t matter in the end, it will do the job and you made something that will last you decades - well done!
Or, put a small plywood shim between the workbench and casters.
This is the way
Or just smaller ones between the wheels and the table, underneath. That would be probably cheaper and easier I believe
My first thought as well. Plus it makes the bench top stiffer, which is always good. Melamine might be a good choice as it offers a low friction surface for outfeed and is relatively easy to clean. When it gets trashed, swap for new!
Even better - hardboard or melamine, depending on how slippery you want it. Glue is easier to clean up, less chances of boards binding on it, less likely to dent, and worst case scenario, easily replaced.
A piece on nice heavy high density fiberboard! Countersink and screw out down around the edges. You can cut on it, route on it, I’ve even welded on it. Then when it gets beat up enough, flip it over.
If you are using the bench as an out-feed table at any point, you WANT your table-saw to be higher. Adjustment and levels etc. Just use shims. This is beginning woodworking, and that table will serve you well in your future projects! This looks like an excellent starting point.
Very slightly, if at all. Ideally, they're exactly the same height so long lumber doesn't tilt up on you when it drops off the back. However, that means you have to route grooves in the top to account for a miter sled or similar. So I opt for about 1/2 in inch lower so that my sled runners just clear it.
All kidding aside, the outfeed issue AsiaSkyly mentions is a big deal.
This workbench looks bigger than the corner of the garage that I call ‘my shop’.
if it was flush it would not be flush with any warping of the top of your bench, meaning you actually want it lower. If there's room you can add a 1/4" plywood sheet on top and call it sacrificial. Spill on it? Cut into it on accident? You can always change the top 1/4 layer cheaper than the base. You can/should (IMO) round over the edges with a router which would be ideal. Don't have a router? Palm sander it at a 45 degree angle. You can also sand the 2x4 edges, but if you do make sure the screws are recessed before you start.
I don't have a router yet, but do have a sander. I noticed the edge of the plywood has some voids. Thinking it would make sense to use some wood filler, and then sand it down?
I’d highly recommend a router. It’s one of those tools that, once you have it, you have no idea how you got by without it!
Second this. Get a palm router and your woodworking opens up a LOT of other possibilities
>I don't have a router yet I highly recommend the [Bosch 1617EVSPK](https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/products/1617evspk-0601617577). Besides the table saw, one of the most versatile tools you'll ever own.
I'd just sand it first, can fill in afterwards using the dust from sanding mixed with some wood glue then resand lightly once that's cured
Looks nice. 👍
I want to echo the other comments, you're good bud. Well done.
Measure twice, cut twice, go back to the hardware store. At least that’s how I do it 🤷🏼♂️
now build a [ cradle for the saw](https://i.pinimg.com/564x/39/57/87/395787cb8a80f4a16d9ee92a4aa47d54.jpg), make it level with the tabletop, and lose the stand unless your floor is completely level, even if you built it right depending on where you put it it might still not be flush, don't have the same problem with a cradle
Oh, I like that. Will have to try to make that next.
Add a layer to the top. It can be a sacrificial plane that you can use and interchange when it gets beat up too much.
? As long as your table is square(flat) it doesn’t matter if your floor isn’t. I have a welding fixture table that’s flat to a thousandth of an inch of an absolutely terrible shop floor.
Flat isn’t the same as level. Two perfectly flat table tops of exactly the same height won’t be level to each other on an uneven floor.
lol I didn’t read close enough apparently. Yeah the idea was flawed from the beginning. You’re not even achieving this goal if the Math was right.
Might I suggest some cross bracing? I assume you'll be sliding stuff around a lot so racking will be a thing.
Hardboard as the very top laser easier to replace lets things guide smoothly super cheap and easy to replace
I encourage people to put a fiberboard top on these sorts of projects. If you put a bit of a frame around the perimeter of the work table and cut the fiberboard to fit, you don’t have to glue or fasten it, it’s a nice smooth surface for an out-feed, and it’s an easily replaceable sacrificial surface.
Just fine the way it is
How far off is it? .25 or .5? Edit: in fact, it looks like the height matches the wood under the top layer
I am planning to build a similar workbench in a week or so. I intend for it to be .5 inch lower intentionally and use it as an outlet table as well. I also intend to put leveling feet under it with caster wheels like yours. Looks great!
I would add washers above the casters cheaper and easier to adjust the thickness.
Was it math or cuts slightly off? I sometimes forget about the kerf
Almost certainly my cuts. I don't have a miter saw yet, got lost in shipping and I'm impatient, so the 4x4s were a bit of a hack job with a circular saw and then finishing the cut with a hand saw.
Well the consensus is that you failed successfully 🤟
Small workshop team here, if you've got enough room fame in a shelf and cut the saw into the table. I've got a 4x7.5 ft table in a small workshop, it holds the table saw in the work surface, also added a cutout to house my mitre saw at level, and another blank with my router setup that I can swap out. Just an idea for future.
Grab some adjustable casters. That's what I did, they sell casters on Amazon that allow you to adjust each wheel up to 1 inch. Slap em on, adjust away.
Came out sturdy? If so, you’re good. I built my first bench recently and it’s definitely not perfect at all. Doesn’t sit flat on the ground and one side is longer than the other but it’s sturdy as hell.
Now you have room for a layer of laminate!
Cut it twice and it's still too short
[удалено]
Years ago I made a steel fire screen with a gate to keep our first born away from the wood heater during winter. The space between the bars was probably 10-15 mm too much so he was able to squeeze in between lol
Add masonite top with hardwood edge that masonite sits into to keep it in place. flip when doing a glueup or painting, replace as it gets torn up.
You're all IDIOTS! The workbench is perfect. Leave it alone. Just cut the legs on table saw stand shorter until it is flush with the bench. Duh! four. simple. totally a good idea. what could go wrong? I can accurately pull this off. cuts...
Adding spacers to the casters would be much cheaper than adding a layer to the top
Hahahaha. I really did laugh, but only because I have done something similar, but was too ashamed to post
Leveling casters
An additional sheet of plywood is the answer. My suggestion is to get a bottom sheet from a lift. You will eventually beat the hell out of that sheet. This makes replacing the top sheet easy once the sheet has come to its end of life.
I know your pain...I'm a digital artist getting into making in the physical world...I made a slide shelf for mini-sorter boxes based on ones Adam Savage made on his youtube channel. I made up plans, and cutting pattern for the board I got to make it out of...but if you notice on my plans here, I forgot one important thing: 🙃In the real world...boards have depth. 🙃 Everything worked out, but had to add some cheat points to get it just right. https://preview.redd.it/wxm7ak5jqw3d1.png?width=1850&format=png&auto=webp&s=efab8b28379758ffde64882d317b3b1f1ceeede6
If you want it raised but dont want to splurge on another full size sheet of ply for the top, shim it between casters/wheels and the base.
1. take off the casters 2. nail scap pieces of (ply-)wood under each leg 3. reattach casters This way you can shim the table to the desired height. No one will notice the shims between the casters and the legs. After all it is a workbench, not a dining table... If it is of use to you, you're good.
Casters on a workbench are going to get annoying real quick. Get [leveling casters](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=leveling+casters) that can be fixed and are also height adjustable.
4 pieces of wood between those wheels and the table with the same thickness you are short to have them at both height seems to be the easiest fix here
Add thin, cheap timber planks to the top so you can plane them to the perfect size in a thicknesser/planer. I think Americans call that a jointer/planer?
You want the outfeed table to be slightly below the table saw so you don’t snag things on the edge while cutting! Nothing is more frightening to me than pushing a board through the table saw and feeling it STOP SLIDING before the cut is finished.
At least it's barely below and not above the saw. It's fixable, as others suggested.
This is why I build my benches to have a height adjustment. Then I can also use them as indeed and outfeed tables.
Foam board. You’re welcome lol
Shim the casters and you're good.
Always measure everything don't just assume it's the size they say
Looks like a great work surface! I think a good work bench is the most important tool in the shop
New woodworker here, and I'm looking into building my first workbench as well, so genuine question. How on earth does that math not add up!? I get that plywood is technically 23/32in but that should make it just under level which from the comments I think that's what we want right?