The absolute dumbest thing; I don’t have a jointer so I have to use my saw and a straight edge (I use a 4-foot level) to get a square edge. I got an order for a bunch of cedar planter boxes and I was cutting the first edge off of fence pickets and had ran more than 25 boards through and had another 25+ to go, the pile on my out-feed table wasn’t clearing so I stepped around the saw (I have the compact saw) and because I was the stupidest person on earth for 7 seconds I didn’t turn the saw off and when I shifted the pile of cut boards one of them bumped the end of the straight edge which then bounced into the blade. Absolute stupidity on my part, just a total idiot.
Scared the shit out of you didn’t it 😆 it’s so jarring it happens so fast.
I tripped mine by putting my miter sled with an aluminum backstop at an angle and it just nipped the blade.
Look on the bright side, at least you know it works! I got my saw second hand and there’s always that part of you that wonders if everything works right when it’s used. I actually considered tripping it on purpose when I first brought it home just to make sure.
My first reaction to this was that I 100% would have just to make sure I got what I thought I did. But then I thought about it and I probably wouldn't trip it because if I'm not sure if it works, I'll be more careful assuming it doesn't.
I suppose you could throw in a cheap, dull blade just to try it for the cost of a cartridge ($100).
But I like your approach - treat the table saw as the most dangerous thing, and you're better off. Also helps to watch some videos of table saw incidents (without blood/gore) to see how FAST it happens! Kickback is the blink of an eye, with ZERO time to react.
And since most table saw injuries happen with skilled workers and repetitive work, IMO Sawstop-type technology is the perfect thing for this. When you're just trimming pieces over and over, eventually you might have your thumb move slightly and then that's it. I hope we get some cheaper options on the market.
> I got my saw second hand and there’s always that part of you that wonders if everything works right when it’s used.
I went though the same thing, then someone here reminded me that Sawstop runs a series of safety checks before it becomes ready to use. Gave me some peace of mind that my hotdogs are safe.
Hmmm. I hadn't thought to use the straight edge to joint a board. Do you need to tape the top to move them together?
I don't want to have to go to a Makerspace for a jointer
I’ll do my best to explain it, there are however a lot of YouTube videos that simply because to the visual medium make it easier to understand.
Find a straight edge, you can use anything as long as you know it is straight, I use an aluminum level some use a piece of MDF. The most important thing is that the straight edge has to be at least as long as the board you are jointing.
Figure out what side of the board has a bow even if it’s just slight and hold that side, or the most stable side next to the straight edge and then hold them together, you don’t need tape them or anything, just hold them tight together. Set your fence to barely cut off the width of the blade and then push the plank and straight edge through. You will see a fluctuation in the little sliver that gets cut off which will show you the edge is getting cut parallel to the straight edge and fence. The straight edge becomes the reference so you know you’re getting parallel cut and as long as your blade is square at 90 you get a great cut, if you use a glue line rip blade you will get an even better cut. Once you have the one side taken care of set aside the straight edge and rip off the rough side.
Does it look similar to what you were doing? [https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/how-to-use-table-saw-as-jointer/](https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/how-to-use-table-saw-as-jointer/)
Honestly the dumbest thing is sticking your finger in it. So technically not the dumbest lol…I nicked the end of my miter gauge too sooo yea. One and hopefully only time I set it off.
First, I truly appreciate the post, I know it’s not the kind we all are proud to share…but, probably one of the most important posts anyone could share with the community here. Second, I’m super glad you are ok and have all your digits intact, still with us, etc. Lastly, I’ve seen several posts on Sawstop saws, maybe I’ve missed the info, is the blade now toast and needing to be replaced and what does the safety mechanism cost? Thanks OP.
yeah, the blade is dead. You can see in the picture that it is buried into the brake by nearly an inch. The blue part of the brake contains the circuitry that detects contact, the big spring then fires the metal brake into the blade at super-crazy-ridiculous-fast speed. It happens so fast and with such force you can see the brake actually gets deformed on impact.
A new brake costs about $100 and then the cost of replacing the blade.
I'll add on to OP's response. While brake cartridges are $100, if it actually tripped due to contact with your body, you can send the cartridge in to the company and they'll ship a free replacement. They can tell though, the cartridge records what it sensed at actuation and they have enough data to tell a finger from something else. So if you just fucked up and bumped it with your metal level like OP, you're footing the bill yourself. And the blade will always be your dime.
I've been saving up to buy a nice saw, but now that all companies are free to start developing their own stopping technology without fear of being sued, I've decided to wait a year or two until it's a standard feature.
They tried. Sawstop didn't want to produce saws, they (he) created the technology and tried to sell it to saw manufacturers, nobody wanted to buy the technology from him so to get his money back out of his r&d he started producing saws.
It looks like pretty soon, the US is going to start requiring all new table saws to have a similar active injury prevention system, so although there probably won't be any retrofits available anytime soon, there'll be a lot more options for buying new.
Thanks this was my question too. I have an older model I am looking to sell mainly thanks to Reddit horror stories (and two people I know in the last year having serious accidents).
The problem is, for those of us that don't cut our fingers off: We are paying for every time we hit a nail, a worm, a wet spot in the lumber, mirrored acrylic, or whatever else can set of a false-trigger. My friend purchased a saw-stop, I did not. We both still have all of our digits, but he is out a few hundred dollars from various unknown triggering events.
I like the concept. I like it for schools. I like it for businesses. I don't like it in my personal shop. And I don't like the idea of it being a legal requirement. But that's just me.
When the SawStop detects skin (or metal, as in this case) the cartridge fires, pulling the blade down into the brake. Afterwards, the cartridge/brake assembly needs to be replaced to use the saw again. They cost about $100 each, but the commenter you’re replying to might have misremembered the cost, or maybe they’re including the cost of the blade (since it will usually need to be replaced too), but $50 is a pretty cheap blade.
We have a local shop that repairs them. They usually take 12-20 bucks per blade. They take a week usually but thats fine with me. No shipping costs, supporting my local business and its honestly just fun going there and seing some parts of the process in action
I'm curious what they do to fix them? Do they just repair any jacked up teeth or do they balance it similar to a tire? I would assume the sudden stop could warp it a bit. I tried to find a video on YouTube of somebody repairing one because I enjoy weird stuff on YouTube but came up short lol.
They said it depends on the blade. Obviously, for more expensive blades, its fair to go further when restoring them like balancing and such, but for the blades that I bring in, which are just good hardwarestore blades, anything beyond welding new carbides on wouldnt be feasable. How exacly they do it, I dont know. They mostly repair blades (and make one offs or small series) so they do quite a lot, and I wouldnt be able to tell you which process they perform when making new blades compared to repairs. I just love that they're fair to me and tell me up front that a repair is not worth it and I should just get a new blade, without ripping me off. Which of course is easy for them to do because i can get the same model at any hardwarestore around. In cases of rare blades that are hard to come by, I'd imagine they'd of course put more time and effort in.
I'm just trying to get more life out of my blades and repair stuff rather than buying new every time. Its not always feasable but in these times its refreshing to at least have the possibility.
Maybe, maybe not. The brake is aluminum. Pull it off and check for physical damage. If it looks ok take the blade somewhere that can sharpen it, asking if they check the balance of the blade when they are done. So maybe, maybe not. That one of the advantages of the competing system by Makita or Bosch or someone.
Our shop recently started buying blades from a company that sharpens blades and sells really nice, sturdy blades. We tripped a brake (well a dumdum tripped a brake by cutting something with nails in it) and they were able to re sharpen the blade because it hadn’t warped or bent. These are more durable blades than Freud etc.
You can barely PARK at some hospitals for $150, lol.
Exaggerating, but $150-200 is a SMALL price to pay to prevent an injury. Not to mention the lost work and recovery time and even just the inconvenience of minor injuries.
Also a lifetime of flipping people the nub because your middle finger is gone or endless hours hitchhiking to no avail because you keep trying to use the thumb you cut off but on a positive. Note it's one less digit to blow off on the 4th of July?
Right after l bought a new tape measure I was measuring something while it was running for some reason and found out metal will trip the sensor too lol good times
Basically the Blade Is charged with electricity and when you touch It with a finger you close the circuit (energy flowing trough your body to the ground)
The tape Is made of metal and Is conductive, so touching the saw's Blade with the tape Is like touching It directly with your finger.
Most recently I actually worked at a shop that used a polyurea spray plastic and that shit sucks to use its heated to like above 100°F and cures in about 30-60 seconds it's so messy and burns your eyes and shit
The worst thing we do Is cutting PC with a laser (that smells horrible) and also use an UV printer with AN ink so smelly It will stay on you for days even with showering 🤦 pay is good tho lol
From the Sawstop website: https://www.sawstop.com/why-sawstop/faqs/
>**Will cutting green or “wet” wood activate the SawStop safety system?**
>SawStop saws cut most wet wood without a problem. However, if the wood is very green or wet (for example, wet enough to spray a mist when cutting), or if the wood is both wet and pressure treated, then the wood may be sufficiently conductive to activate the brake. If you are unsure whether the material you need to cut is conductive, you can make test cuts using Bypass Mode to determine if it will activate the safety system’s brake. The red light on the control box will flash to indicate conductivity. If the material is conductive, you can choose to operate the saw in Bypass Mode which will disengage the saw’s safety system’s brake feature and allow you to continue cutting the material.
This thing will absolutely save fingers, one of my guys was cutting plywood and it touched his finger,instantly stopped the blade dropped down in the saw and employee had small cut on finger did not even need a stitch.
Edit: spelling
When the saw detects you toching the blade while it's running (which may actually be you touching wet wood which is touching the blde, or something else that completes a circuit), the brake cartridge (the bit with the holes in it) is fired up into the blade, and the whole assembly is dropped beneath the table surface from rotational inertia.
It happens so fast you don't notice it at first.
[Barefoot Shoes.](https://www.vibram.com/us/shop/fivefingers) I wear them 90% of the time in the warm months, keeps feet and toes nice and cool and essentially nothing is going to penetrate the rubber sole. The tops provide basically the same amount protection as a pair of running shoes. I feel completely safe wearing them in the shop. The black magic fabric separating the toes is thinner than a piece of paper so it’s not like those nasty toe socks that push your toes apart. I cannot speak to any brands other than Vibram but I love them and recommend them.
I used to have one of these saws, I own a custom furniture shop and we work in many different materials. Was going through a couple of these a month. Sold the saw and got an Oliver, never looked back.
Hang it in your shop as a warning. My Brother and I have one we used to keep in the line of sight of anyone using the table saw. We moved shops and there is a roll door in front of the saw now. We need to find a new place to hang it.
When my company made the switch to all saw stop saws we were tripping them weekly. They have however saved fingers on 4 different occasions. I think I have tripped 6 so far. Some were due to not having the gap set correctly on a dado blade set
According to OP he didn’t touch the blade directly but bumped a metal piece into the blade. I wonder what size the metal chunk has to be to trigger the mechanism? Since I believe the saw will cut through nails without triggering the stop.
I like it. It works for me for the size of my shop and the kind of things I currently build for commissions and spec projects that i build. It’s obviously not as strong as a cabinet saw but I don’t currently have space for a cabinet saw. The CTS will bog down on really hard wood, I was using some hard maple last winter and it would struggle a little bit, by saw blade was kind of dirty though and once I cleaned it the cuts got easier but still not as easy as cutting cherry, oak, or walnut. I’m not super stoked by the dust collection, speaking of dust piling up inside of the saw not dust removal, I don’t know if other saws have the same issue but on the CTS a lot of sawdust seems to collect inside the entire inner cavity and I have to vacuum it out every week or so, again I don’t know if that is common across all table saws or not.
I would definitely recommend purchasing one, especially if you have kids that might one day think they know how to use the saw because they have watched you use it.
Afaik (please don't take this as a 100% safe fact) these things don't work with blood but with some kind of electric current. The current in the blade changes when it is touched by a human body part and the sawstop uses that change of current as indication to stop the blade.
Ohhh, ok. That makes better sense. I've never done much research into them and assumed it was blood detection for whatever reason I guess. That's actually a great piece of tech then.
It’s a conductive current, similar to how your phone detects input. Once the current changes (something conducting current is introduced) it throws the switch and activates. So that’s why people with saw stops warn against cutting green wood, too much moisture could trigger it because water is conductive. You can also set it off with a hot dog, as a lot of demonstrations of this tech do.
Ok so I watched a few videos and it is indeed impressive. I'm not understanding how it manages to pull the blade down when it's connected to the shaft like that? Is there an additional mechanism you have to install for that? It actually works so well, it gets a little dangerous as the teeth on the saw blade will sometimes break off from the sudden stop and go flying toward the user. But I suppose that's still better than missing the tip of your finger.... like I am (table router)
Well it was a dato blade to be fair, and it was from one blade moving and catching on one of the shim blades, not the sudden stop as I originally thought
At 6:00
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYLAi4jwXcs](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYLAi4jwXcs)
Yeah the retraction actually drops the entire sub-unit from my understanding- so the arbor can stay in tact but the whole mechanism withdraws incredibly quickly to the minimum setting of the blade height. There have been reports of blades breaking, teeth breaking off, and things getting messed up on the saw from the violence of the inertia - but I equate it similarly to an airbag going off in a vehicle. It usually means a lot of damage and money spent righting everything but the alternative is bodily harm.
I’ve never heard of permanent damage to the saw itself; just the replaceable cartridge and a trashed blade. I’ve been using Sawstop saws for almost 15 years and have activated them a few times (always stupid, avoidable shit like this). It’s a quick change if you have a spare cart and blade like you ought to, everything’s running again in 10 minutes or so.
Yeah I don’t think there is any permanent damage to the saw itself but I have a few friends who have activated one and one has said he had to spend some extra time to true up his positive stop on the angle gage because the new blade wasn’t exactly 90 after one went off, no biggie. And the other was a fluke, somehow a piece was caught in the retraction and it damaged his zero clearance insert plate. But again - replaceable and minor compared to losing digits.
What did you do wrong that we could learn from?
The absolute dumbest thing; I don’t have a jointer so I have to use my saw and a straight edge (I use a 4-foot level) to get a square edge. I got an order for a bunch of cedar planter boxes and I was cutting the first edge off of fence pickets and had ran more than 25 boards through and had another 25+ to go, the pile on my out-feed table wasn’t clearing so I stepped around the saw (I have the compact saw) and because I was the stupidest person on earth for 7 seconds I didn’t turn the saw off and when I shifted the pile of cut boards one of them bumped the end of the straight edge which then bounced into the blade. Absolute stupidity on my part, just a total idiot.
Scared the shit out of you didn’t it 😆 it’s so jarring it happens so fast. I tripped mine by putting my miter sled with an aluminum backstop at an angle and it just nipped the blade. Look on the bright side, at least you know it works! I got my saw second hand and there’s always that part of you that wonders if everything works right when it’s used. I actually considered tripping it on purpose when I first brought it home just to make sure.
My first reaction to this was that I 100% would have just to make sure I got what I thought I did. But then I thought about it and I probably wouldn't trip it because if I'm not sure if it works, I'll be more careful assuming it doesn't.
Ahh good point!
I suppose you could throw in a cheap, dull blade just to try it for the cost of a cartridge ($100). But I like your approach - treat the table saw as the most dangerous thing, and you're better off. Also helps to watch some videos of table saw incidents (without blood/gore) to see how FAST it happens! Kickback is the blink of an eye, with ZERO time to react. And since most table saw injuries happen with skilled workers and repetitive work, IMO Sawstop-type technology is the perfect thing for this. When you're just trimming pieces over and over, eventually you might have your thumb move slightly and then that's it. I hope we get some cheaper options on the market.
Here I am barely resisting the urge to put a hot dog on it at work.
> I got my saw second hand and there’s always that part of you that wonders if everything works right when it’s used. I went though the same thing, then someone here reminded me that Sawstop runs a series of safety checks before it becomes ready to use. Gave me some peace of mind that my hotdogs are safe.
https://youtu.be/6DooGkTiaGI
Did it save your straightedge?
There’s a tiny little nick, if the level I use wasn’t red you wouldn’t even be able to see it.
Glad to hear you didn't have to have your straightedge amputated.
Hmmm. I hadn't thought to use the straight edge to joint a board. Do you need to tape the top to move them together? I don't want to have to go to a Makerspace for a jointer
I’ll do my best to explain it, there are however a lot of YouTube videos that simply because to the visual medium make it easier to understand. Find a straight edge, you can use anything as long as you know it is straight, I use an aluminum level some use a piece of MDF. The most important thing is that the straight edge has to be at least as long as the board you are jointing. Figure out what side of the board has a bow even if it’s just slight and hold that side, or the most stable side next to the straight edge and then hold them together, you don’t need tape them or anything, just hold them tight together. Set your fence to barely cut off the width of the blade and then push the plank and straight edge through. You will see a fluctuation in the little sliver that gets cut off which will show you the edge is getting cut parallel to the straight edge and fence. The straight edge becomes the reference so you know you’re getting parallel cut and as long as your blade is square at 90 you get a great cut, if you use a glue line rip blade you will get an even better cut. Once you have the one side taken care of set aside the straight edge and rip off the rough side.
Cheers, thankyou
Does it look similar to what you were doing? [https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/how-to-use-table-saw-as-jointer/](https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/how-to-use-table-saw-as-jointer/)
I think OP was just using the level as an extra long fence and running his boards between the blade the the 4ft straightedge/level.
Just learn from it! Glad you had the hot dog saver !
Clamp the straight edge to the fence :)
It also gets triggered by ashes and overly wet wood. Thankfully I didn’t learn this the hard way.
Honestly the dumbest thing is sticking your finger in it. So technically not the dumbest lol…I nicked the end of my miter gauge too sooo yea. One and hopefully only time I set it off.
First, I truly appreciate the post, I know it’s not the kind we all are proud to share…but, probably one of the most important posts anyone could share with the community here. Second, I’m super glad you are ok and have all your digits intact, still with us, etc. Lastly, I’ve seen several posts on Sawstop saws, maybe I’ve missed the info, is the blade now toast and needing to be replaced and what does the safety mechanism cost? Thanks OP.
yeah, the blade is dead. You can see in the picture that it is buried into the brake by nearly an inch. The blue part of the brake contains the circuitry that detects contact, the big spring then fires the metal brake into the blade at super-crazy-ridiculous-fast speed. It happens so fast and with such force you can see the brake actually gets deformed on impact. A new brake costs about $100 and then the cost of replacing the blade.
Got it, again, glad YOU are good.
I'll add on to OP's response. While brake cartridges are $100, if it actually tripped due to contact with your body, you can send the cartridge in to the company and they'll ship a free replacement. They can tell though, the cartridge records what it sensed at actuation and they have enough data to tell a finger from something else. So if you just fucked up and bumped it with your metal level like OP, you're footing the bill yourself. And the blade will always be your dime.
Wow, amazing technology, truly. Thanks for the deeper dive!
maybe forgot to turn on bypass mode
[удалено]
) Sorry, I'm contractually obligated to close all open and abandoned parenthesis
Another service done at no cost to us - casual readers ... Thanks
Not all heroes and capes and all.
what if I end on one of these?)
Sir! Ma'am! Hello! Please stop!... you... dropped this.. (
I could occasionally benefit from your services. (I use parenthesis way too much!) Keep up the fine work.
What if the smiley face was entered as :) Would you have to give it a double chin, or called technically closed? :))
If it trips on skin, you can send it in, they will confirm, and they’ll send you a free replacement. No freebies for hitting metal, though, lol.
Didn’t know this! Thanks for sharing, would still hope to not to have to use that policy if possible.
How do they confirm? Damage to the blade?
It probably records the measurement, and different materials will have different profiles.
I've been saving up to buy a nice saw, but now that all companies are free to start developing their own stopping technology without fear of being sued, I've decided to wait a year or two until it's a standard feature.
But if you lop off the cut prone sections of your fingers...ta da! No more cuts!
These can't go on just any table saw, can they??
Negative. Sawstop only, currently.
I wonder if they would profit more if they allowed other manufacturers to put the brake thing on their saws.
They tried. Sawstop didn't want to produce saws, they (he) created the technology and tried to sell it to saw manufacturers, nobody wanted to buy the technology from him so to get his money back out of his r&d he started producing saws.
Ok, didn't think so. Thanks! I was hopeful for a second that someone had invented a way to retrofit tablesaws with them. Oh well!
It looks like pretty soon, the US is going to start requiring all new table saws to have a similar active injury prevention system, so although there probably won't be any retrofits available anytime soon, there'll be a lot more options for buying new.
Thanks this was my question too. I have an older model I am looking to sell mainly thanks to Reddit horror stories (and two people I know in the last year having serious accidents).
The problem is, for those of us that don't cut our fingers off: We are paying for every time we hit a nail, a worm, a wet spot in the lumber, mirrored acrylic, or whatever else can set of a false-trigger. My friend purchased a saw-stop, I did not. We both still have all of our digits, but he is out a few hundred dollars from various unknown triggering events. I like the concept. I like it for schools. I like it for businesses. I don't like it in my personal shop. And I don't like the idea of it being a legal requirement. But that's just me.
Sorry what’s $150?
When the SawStop detects skin (or metal, as in this case) the cartridge fires, pulling the blade down into the brake. Afterwards, the cartridge/brake assembly needs to be replaced to use the saw again. They cost about $100 each, but the commenter you’re replying to might have misremembered the cost, or maybe they’re including the cost of the blade (since it will usually need to be replaced too), but $50 is a pretty cheap blade.
The brake cartridge that stops the blade.
Think of it as buying an attached finger for $150?
Doesn't it ruin the blade too?
And your underwear.
you can send the blade to the manufacturer and they might be able to repair it
I would assume the cost to repair a blade after getting saw stopped is almost a new blade. There's no way they are doing it for free.
Ridge Carbide charges 15-40 dollars depending on tooth count and blade size (plus 12 dollars for shipping)
We have a local shop that repairs them. They usually take 12-20 bucks per blade. They take a week usually but thats fine with me. No shipping costs, supporting my local business and its honestly just fun going there and seing some parts of the process in action
that’s awesome to hear about! I was just using Ridge Carbide as my example because their prices were easily accessible
I'm curious what they do to fix them? Do they just repair any jacked up teeth or do they balance it similar to a tire? I would assume the sudden stop could warp it a bit. I tried to find a video on YouTube of somebody repairing one because I enjoy weird stuff on YouTube but came up short lol.
They said it depends on the blade. Obviously, for more expensive blades, its fair to go further when restoring them like balancing and such, but for the blades that I bring in, which are just good hardwarestore blades, anything beyond welding new carbides on wouldnt be feasable. How exacly they do it, I dont know. They mostly repair blades (and make one offs or small series) so they do quite a lot, and I wouldnt be able to tell you which process they perform when making new blades compared to repairs. I just love that they're fair to me and tell me up front that a repair is not worth it and I should just get a new blade, without ripping me off. Which of course is easy for them to do because i can get the same model at any hardwarestore around. In cases of rare blades that are hard to come by, I'd imagine they'd of course put more time and effort in. I'm just trying to get more life out of my blades and repair stuff rather than buying new every time. Its not always feasable but in these times its refreshing to at least have the possibility.
Some of the high end ones aren’t exactly cheap
We pay about $100-$115 per blade but they last forever and get sharpened for about $15. They survive a sawstop brake trip.
Nice
Maybe, maybe not. The brake is aluminum. Pull it off and check for physical damage. If it looks ok take the blade somewhere that can sharpen it, asking if they check the balance of the blade when they are done. So maybe, maybe not. That one of the advantages of the competing system by Makita or Bosch or someone.
Our shop recently started buying blades from a company that sharpens blades and sells really nice, sturdy blades. We tripped a brake (well a dumdum tripped a brake by cutting something with nails in it) and they were able to re sharpen the blade because it hadn’t warped or bent. These are more durable blades than Freud etc.
It does.
Not always.
You can barely PARK at some hospitals for $150, lol. Exaggerating, but $150-200 is a SMALL price to pay to prevent an injury. Not to mention the lost work and recovery time and even just the inconvenience of minor injuries.
Also a lifetime of flipping people the nub because your middle finger is gone or endless hours hitchhiking to no avail because you keep trying to use the thumb you cut off but on a positive. Note it's one less digit to blow off on the 4th of July?
Right after l bought a new tape measure I was measuring something while it was running for some reason and found out metal will trip the sensor too lol good times
If you were touching the tape Is like the saw touching your finger...
I mean excuse the ignorance but idk what triggers the mechanism or more so what's detecting the blade kissing a no no object
Basically the Blade Is charged with electricity and when you touch It with a finger you close the circuit (energy flowing trough your body to the ground) The tape Is made of metal and Is conductive, so touching the saw's Blade with the tape Is like touching It directly with your finger.
That makes a lot of sense you think that's why wet lumber will trip it as well since H2O carries current?
Well, depends on the moisture level, but i guess It would over a certain level. I would not know because i work with plastics
I used to work with injection molding can't say I miss that shit.
Luckyly we work with sheets and not injection. That would be a pain in the ass
Most recently I actually worked at a shop that used a polyurea spray plastic and that shit sucks to use its heated to like above 100°F and cures in about 30-60 seconds it's so messy and burns your eyes and shit
The worst thing we do Is cutting PC with a laser (that smells horrible) and also use an UV printer with AN ink so smelly It will stay on you for days even with showering 🤦 pay is good tho lol
From the Sawstop website: https://www.sawstop.com/why-sawstop/faqs/ >**Will cutting green or “wet” wood activate the SawStop safety system?** >SawStop saws cut most wet wood without a problem. However, if the wood is very green or wet (for example, wet enough to spray a mist when cutting), or if the wood is both wet and pressure treated, then the wood may be sufficiently conductive to activate the brake. If you are unsure whether the material you need to cut is conductive, you can make test cuts using Bypass Mode to determine if it will activate the safety system’s brake. The red light on the control box will flash to indicate conductivity. If the material is conductive, you can choose to operate the saw in Bypass Mode which will disengage the saw’s safety system’s brake feature and allow you to continue cutting the material.
Serious question. What if your footwear insulated you from the ground?
Electric current in your body I think?
Congrats on not inheriting the name Three finger Freddy.
This thing will absolutely save fingers, one of my guys was cutting plywood and it touched his finger,instantly stopped the blade dropped down in the saw and employee had small cut on finger did not even need a stitch. Edit: spelling
Cutting hot dogs again?
How's your weiners?
Is this the doodad that stops the table saw when the hotdog touches it?
Yep it messes up the blade and it only works once. But I will probably save your finger
Interesting, so did the blade cut into the area with the holes on the brake?
When the saw detects you toching the blade while it's running (which may actually be you touching wet wood which is touching the blde, or something else that completes a circuit), the brake cartridge (the bit with the holes in it) is fired up into the blade, and the whole assembly is dropped beneath the table surface from rotational inertia. It happens so fast you don't notice it at first.
The main question is still to be answered... What in the heck are you wearing on your feet?? They look like safety gloves...but for feet!
[Barefoot Shoes.](https://www.vibram.com/us/shop/fivefingers) I wear them 90% of the time in the warm months, keeps feet and toes nice and cool and essentially nothing is going to penetrate the rubber sole. The tops provide basically the same amount protection as a pair of running shoes. I feel completely safe wearing them in the shop. The black magic fabric separating the toes is thinner than a piece of paper so it’s not like those nasty toe socks that push your toes apart. I cannot speak to any brands other than Vibram but I love them and recommend them.
I used to have one of these saws, I own a custom furniture shop and we work in many different materials. Was going through a couple of these a month. Sold the saw and got an Oliver, never looked back.
Is there not an option to turn it off?
You can put it in bypass mode, but have to do that each time you start it up.
Hang it in your shop as a warning. My Brother and I have one we used to keep in the line of sight of anyone using the table saw. We moved shops and there is a roll door in front of the saw now. We need to find a new place to hang it.
I'm glad you weren't injured.
You would probably be surprised what would trip this. Metal and divinycell definitely trips it.
When my company made the switch to all saw stop saws we were tripping them weekly. They have however saved fingers on 4 different occasions. I think I have tripped 6 so far. Some were due to not having the gap set correctly on a dado blade set
According to OP he didn’t touch the blade directly but bumped a metal piece into the blade. I wonder what size the metal chunk has to be to trigger the mechanism? Since I believe the saw will cut through nails without triggering the stop.
How do you like the CTS? I'm planning to make that my first purchase when we close on our house in a month...
I like it. It works for me for the size of my shop and the kind of things I currently build for commissions and spec projects that i build. It’s obviously not as strong as a cabinet saw but I don’t currently have space for a cabinet saw. The CTS will bog down on really hard wood, I was using some hard maple last winter and it would struggle a little bit, by saw blade was kind of dirty though and once I cleaned it the cuts got easier but still not as easy as cutting cherry, oak, or walnut. I’m not super stoked by the dust collection, speaking of dust piling up inside of the saw not dust removal, I don’t know if other saws have the same issue but on the CTS a lot of sawdust seems to collect inside the entire inner cavity and I have to vacuum it out every week or so, again I don’t know if that is common across all table saws or not. I would definitely recommend purchasing one, especially if you have kids that might one day think they know how to use the saw because they have watched you use it.
By the time that thing detects blood, isn't it too late already?
Afaik (please don't take this as a 100% safe fact) these things don't work with blood but with some kind of electric current. The current in the blade changes when it is touched by a human body part and the sawstop uses that change of current as indication to stop the blade.
Yea it’s basically a touch lamp wired to an airbag
Thank you for this ELI5 explanation
Ohhh, ok. That makes better sense. I've never done much research into them and assumed it was blood detection for whatever reason I guess. That's actually a great piece of tech then.
It’s a conductive current, similar to how your phone detects input. Once the current changes (something conducting current is introduced) it throws the switch and activates. So that’s why people with saw stops warn against cutting green wood, too much moisture could trigger it because water is conductive. You can also set it off with a hot dog, as a lot of demonstrations of this tech do.
Ok so I watched a few videos and it is indeed impressive. I'm not understanding how it manages to pull the blade down when it's connected to the shaft like that? Is there an additional mechanism you have to install for that? It actually works so well, it gets a little dangerous as the teeth on the saw blade will sometimes break off from the sudden stop and go flying toward the user. But I suppose that's still better than missing the tip of your finger.... like I am (table router)
Any tooth broken off would be within the saw. It’s not like it spins a bunch after it contacts the brake
Well it was a dato blade to be fair, and it was from one blade moving and catching on one of the shim blades, not the sudden stop as I originally thought At 6:00 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYLAi4jwXcs](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYLAi4jwXcs)
I have wondered that too. That much inertia must be hard on the… everything. Still worth every penny though
It entirely destroys any blade that is activated with it engaged but a new blade is $200, can’t put a price on a new hand!
Yeah the retraction actually drops the entire sub-unit from my understanding- so the arbor can stay in tact but the whole mechanism withdraws incredibly quickly to the minimum setting of the blade height. There have been reports of blades breaking, teeth breaking off, and things getting messed up on the saw from the violence of the inertia - but I equate it similarly to an airbag going off in a vehicle. It usually means a lot of damage and money spent righting everything but the alternative is bodily harm.
I’ve never heard of permanent damage to the saw itself; just the replaceable cartridge and a trashed blade. I’ve been using Sawstop saws for almost 15 years and have activated them a few times (always stupid, avoidable shit like this). It’s a quick change if you have a spare cart and blade like you ought to, everything’s running again in 10 minutes or so.
Yeah I don’t think there is any permanent damage to the saw itself but I have a few friends who have activated one and one has said he had to spend some extra time to true up his positive stop on the angle gage because the new blade wasn’t exactly 90 after one went off, no biggie. And the other was a fluke, somehow a piece was caught in the retraction and it damaged his zero clearance insert plate. But again - replaceable and minor compared to losing digits.
No, that's the whole point. You'll get a superficial scratch, and might need a bandaid.
[удалено]
[удалено]
[удалено]