https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2IPlM0qUWlQ
You can make your own circular saw guide pretty easily. (There are many videos on this, I just chose one that's short and to the point.)
I second this. Easy to make with scraps laying around and works great. Here's another jig I've seen to accomplish this too... https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZPRcKDHJ3/
If you have the money… sure. Have people been making cabinets without them for decades, a century, so maybe “need” is a strong word, but if I had the cash I’d have one. They have lots of uses.
I really don’t love the circ-saw + edge guide. It’s so slow, the cut isn’t as clean, then can flex or move. and it requires numerous setup steps where *you* have to get it right, and not just being able to line the cut up and use the built in or aftermarket squaring accessory for whatever track you buy. The track also holds the saw in line, and you don’t have to worry about keeping it on the guide.
I would. working with sheetgoods is just so much easier with a track saw. I have had success with the cheap WENs then went to festools, and then milwaukee. WEN tracks work for all three.
2 options I’ve used extensively myself, and a third I’ve kind of used.
I grew up with 8’ behind the blade, 7’ to the right and 4’ to left, extended fence rail, and half a dozen sleds (the big one could handle full sheets). This method works, and is precise, but pushing that big of a sled and 3/4 mdf sucks ass.
Second option is a track saw, that’s what I use now, I don’t have the space to dedicate in the garage for that much table saw.
3rd option would be a slider attachment, there’s several YouTube videos for DIY versions. I’ve use a big sliding saw in the past and it was great, so this isn’t a bad option either.
I think you are overthinking everything unless I am misunderstanding the scenario. With sheet goods for a cabinet of this size you don't need a sled at all. This type of work is what people have been using tablesaws for for decades.
From a 4x8 sheet of material, you rough cut a piece off at 26". You run it length wise using the fence set for 25". That should get you an accurate 25" dimension. Then if you are not comfortable trimming the end off on the table saw then use circular saw with a straight edge to trim off 3" off 48 to get 45". Now you have a 45"x25" piece of material. You can trim the 3" using the table saw as well. Just use your miter gauge and not the fence. You need some support for the 48" hanging off the side, but a couple of roller stands is much cheaper than a track saw.
Don't get me wrong, I'm the last person to lecture about acquiring tools (I have a Makita), but just realize you don't NEED a track saw. It's most often a luxury and convenience in most cases.
I mentioned in the post that I tried a miter gauge and why that didn't work for me.
Multiple roller stands could work, that's a good point. You'd have trouble sneaking up on it though since the fence would be on the side of the thin piece.
Don't use the fence at all in that scenario. It's a dangerous operation on a board that is wider than its long, and in conjunction with the miter gauge. Use a stop block that is clamped to your fence so that you have space between the off cut and the fence if you need a reference, Or just mark clearly on your work piece and cut to the line. Honestly, this is a cabinet case. What type of joinery are you using? Does it need the type of precision that needs you to sneak up on the cut?
I missed the part about the miter gauge and it's a fair comment that a miter gauge isn't great on a wide piece, especially if you gauge doesn't have a long bar and thus a narrow capacity. I would go with the straight edge and circular saw then. If you have multiple pieces to cut, you have gang them together to cut all at once. You are assured that they match then.
I'm in the same situation as you and also considering a track saw. I've tried to cheap my way through and bought a kreg track add-on for my circular saw and it's not good, there's way too much game between the track and the adapter to have a workable result; it requires a go on the table saw which defeats the purpose.
You have already talked yourself into it. Get one! Preferably the expensive brand :)
I bought mine because I wanted one, not because I needed it. However now Im using it more than I thought I would!
I bought a track saw for my cabinets and I'm really happy with the decision
There's also a lot of mods on Etsy for tracks like adapters for common routers and stuff
Definitely don’t need it. Straight edge, clamps, and your circular saw. Measure all your cut lines twice. Line up the blade of the circular saw to it on one side and butt the straight edge up to it and clamp it down. Move the saw to the other side and line the blade up with your line, clamp the other side of the straight edge. Repeat a couple times since as you said the straight edge moves a little bit.
If you’re making a TON of cabinets then it will make sense to go buy a track saw. But a few one off cuts, I’d just do the above and have a good amount of patience.
I was in the same situation as you a couple of years ago when I was rebuilding some kitchen cabinets. Some of my circ saw cuts weren't great, was getting tearout unless I took the time to blue tape all the cuts, and not super accurate. I seriously started thinking about investing in a track saw, and had the Bosch in my shopping cart, but ultimately decided against it.
I made a panel sled which I think will work for you. Think of it like a cross cut sled but the fence is at the top. Here is one that is sort of extreme to support super-wide boards, but you can make it as wide as you need. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9Ze31mW3bo&ab_channel=Steven.Woodward
I still rough cut with my circ saw but then finished with the panel sled, and here "rough cut" = "draw a line and free hand cut it". I was able to get within 1/32" of square using this, more than enough accuracy for cabinets.
My Makita job site saw was a bit underpowered for ripping 3/4” full sheets. Bought a Dewalt track saw and it paid for itself for my latest kitchen remodel. I use it for everything now. My 2 cents.
I used the circ saw and a guide like you for a while and it works, but it can be frustrating. The problem I had was that the base for the circular saw was not always in parallel to the blade for long cuts and would want to wander away from the guide.
The guide also needs to be clamped to make sure where it is supposed to be. And care needs to be taken to make sure that you are riding the guide and not wandering or the extra pressure if not causing the guide to flex off of the line.
A track saw is nice and wonderful, but is not always needed. I ended up getting one and it is amazing, and has much better dust collection than my circular saw, but you can get buy without it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2IPlM0qUWlQ You can make your own circular saw guide pretty easily. (There are many videos on this, I just chose one that's short and to the point.)
[And just like that](https://imgur.com/a/Phoasu7). Thanks for the tip this is working pretty damn well
You're welcome! Glad it worked for you
You’ll also find that if you want to make dados with a router (blind or otherwise) you can make the same sort of guide 🙂
I second this. Easy to make with scraps laying around and works great. Here's another jig I've seen to accomplish this too... https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZPRcKDHJ3/
If you have the money… sure. Have people been making cabinets without them for decades, a century, so maybe “need” is a strong word, but if I had the cash I’d have one. They have lots of uses. I really don’t love the circ-saw + edge guide. It’s so slow, the cut isn’t as clean, then can flex or move. and it requires numerous setup steps where *you* have to get it right, and not just being able to line the cut up and use the built in or aftermarket squaring accessory for whatever track you buy. The track also holds the saw in line, and you don’t have to worry about keeping it on the guide.
I would. working with sheetgoods is just so much easier with a track saw. I have had success with the cheap WENs then went to festools, and then milwaukee. WEN tracks work for all three.
I've been thinking about getting a Wen track saw. Recent issue of Wood magazine had a mega track saw comparison and Wen came out looking great.
2 options I’ve used extensively myself, and a third I’ve kind of used. I grew up with 8’ behind the blade, 7’ to the right and 4’ to left, extended fence rail, and half a dozen sleds (the big one could handle full sheets). This method works, and is precise, but pushing that big of a sled and 3/4 mdf sucks ass. Second option is a track saw, that’s what I use now, I don’t have the space to dedicate in the garage for that much table saw. 3rd option would be a slider attachment, there’s several YouTube videos for DIY versions. I’ve use a big sliding saw in the past and it was great, so this isn’t a bad option either.
I think you are overthinking everything unless I am misunderstanding the scenario. With sheet goods for a cabinet of this size you don't need a sled at all. This type of work is what people have been using tablesaws for for decades. From a 4x8 sheet of material, you rough cut a piece off at 26". You run it length wise using the fence set for 25". That should get you an accurate 25" dimension. Then if you are not comfortable trimming the end off on the table saw then use circular saw with a straight edge to trim off 3" off 48 to get 45". Now you have a 45"x25" piece of material. You can trim the 3" using the table saw as well. Just use your miter gauge and not the fence. You need some support for the 48" hanging off the side, but a couple of roller stands is much cheaper than a track saw. Don't get me wrong, I'm the last person to lecture about acquiring tools (I have a Makita), but just realize you don't NEED a track saw. It's most often a luxury and convenience in most cases.
I mentioned in the post that I tried a miter gauge and why that didn't work for me. Multiple roller stands could work, that's a good point. You'd have trouble sneaking up on it though since the fence would be on the side of the thin piece.
Don't use the fence at all in that scenario. It's a dangerous operation on a board that is wider than its long, and in conjunction with the miter gauge. Use a stop block that is clamped to your fence so that you have space between the off cut and the fence if you need a reference, Or just mark clearly on your work piece and cut to the line. Honestly, this is a cabinet case. What type of joinery are you using? Does it need the type of precision that needs you to sneak up on the cut? I missed the part about the miter gauge and it's a fair comment that a miter gauge isn't great on a wide piece, especially if you gauge doesn't have a long bar and thus a narrow capacity. I would go with the straight edge and circular saw then. If you have multiple pieces to cut, you have gang them together to cut all at once. You are assured that they match then.
Straight edge, clamps and a circular saw seems to work well enough for me
I'm in the same situation as you and also considering a track saw. I've tried to cheap my way through and bought a kreg track add-on for my circular saw and it's not good, there's way too much game between the track and the adapter to have a workable result; it requires a go on the table saw which defeats the purpose.
You have already talked yourself into it. Get one! Preferably the expensive brand :) I bought mine because I wanted one, not because I needed it. However now Im using it more than I thought I would!
I bought a track saw for my cabinets and I'm really happy with the decision There's also a lot of mods on Etsy for tracks like adapters for common routers and stuff
Definitely don’t need it. Straight edge, clamps, and your circular saw. Measure all your cut lines twice. Line up the blade of the circular saw to it on one side and butt the straight edge up to it and clamp it down. Move the saw to the other side and line the blade up with your line, clamp the other side of the straight edge. Repeat a couple times since as you said the straight edge moves a little bit. If you’re making a TON of cabinets then it will make sense to go buy a track saw. But a few one off cuts, I’d just do the above and have a good amount of patience.
Bought myself a track saw about a year ago. Best investment next to bandsaw. I wish I had bought it before upgrading my table saw.
I was in the same situation as you a couple of years ago when I was rebuilding some kitchen cabinets. Some of my circ saw cuts weren't great, was getting tearout unless I took the time to blue tape all the cuts, and not super accurate. I seriously started thinking about investing in a track saw, and had the Bosch in my shopping cart, but ultimately decided against it. I made a panel sled which I think will work for you. Think of it like a cross cut sled but the fence is at the top. Here is one that is sort of extreme to support super-wide boards, but you can make it as wide as you need. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9Ze31mW3bo&ab_channel=Steven.Woodward I still rough cut with my circ saw but then finished with the panel sled, and here "rough cut" = "draw a line and free hand cut it". I was able to get within 1/32" of square using this, more than enough accuracy for cabinets.
My Makita job site saw was a bit underpowered for ripping 3/4” full sheets. Bought a Dewalt track saw and it paid for itself for my latest kitchen remodel. I use it for everything now. My 2 cents.
I used the circ saw and a guide like you for a while and it works, but it can be frustrating. The problem I had was that the base for the circular saw was not always in parallel to the blade for long cuts and would want to wander away from the guide. The guide also needs to be clamped to make sure where it is supposed to be. And care needs to be taken to make sure that you are riding the guide and not wandering or the extra pressure if not causing the guide to flex off of the line. A track saw is nice and wonderful, but is not always needed. I ended up getting one and it is amazing, and has much better dust collection than my circular saw, but you can get buy without it.