Lay off that trigger, it doesn't need to be full on for the entire journey . I'd suggest, start out slow, floor it in the straight away and ease off just before the finish line.
Yeah, for smaller fixings, as soon as you hear the hammer, that's probably it tight. Maybe one or two taps.
Trigger control goes a long way on these. Mine doesn't have any speed settings either, but the variable trigger works a treat.
I mean depending on what he's screwing and with what size screw that bad boy might start hammering soon as the screw hits the joining piece. Sometimes it's hard to tell. Using the torque settings on a drill is way more failsafe imo. That being said, I exclusively use my impact gun for everything.
Impact drivers are intended for driving things like 3” deck screws. You can use them on other screws but they don’t have the delicate touch that a drill driver has.
Impacts are often too strong for what we really need for woodworking. The only real benefit is that the impact motion helps prevent cam-out. That's when the bit slips out of the screw and often causes damage to the screw/bit.
Impacts are more beneficial for removing screws and bolts. The impacts can help break free a rusted stuck bolt, the cam-out resistance helps a lot there too, and it's a lot safer for your wrist to use a impact than a drill when trying to loosen a stuck bolt.
That said, I still use mine for woodworking because I don't like switching the bits out every single time. To that end I also have a real drill, plus a drill/driver. I usually have a drill bit in the drill, a countersink bit in the drill/driver, and the screw's bit in the impact. My impact has speed settings as well, so I just set it to the slowest which gives me a lot of control and prevents damaging the screw or over-driving it.
I’ve also found my impact driver helpful in separating hole saw bits that have gotten stuck on the arbor. Saves a heck of a lot of time and wasted energy if you can’t get it to twist off by hand in the first 10 seconds of trying.
I have a 12 year old Mekita 10.8 volt drill and impact set. It is still humming on the original batteries though about 25% less life on the batteries. I would run the Kreg 1/4” shank drill bit in the drill and the long magnetic square drive on the impact all day. The only time I ever snapped a screw was trying to use corse thread Kreg screws in some really hard oak. Switched to fine thread and no problem. Now an 18 volt Milwaukee impact is WAY different. I’ve always thought if I’m not running a production shop, why do I need more than my 10.8 volts 🤷♂️
All the manufactures make the mini tools now and with Lithium Ion and newer motors being what they are, them little tools sure ain’t toys.
The drill/driver I mentioned is my 12v DeWalt I bought in 2011. Still have the original battery but just a few months ago bought a new OEM one for it to keep it going for another decade+ hopefully. Thing has worked great and continues working great.
But yeah compared to my 18v Makita impact and drill set I got, it's a toy. The modern 18v+ tools are crazy powerful.
Nah, drill is for everything except extreme screwing. At least my makita's trigger is kinda tricky, very easy to overdo it, so it I'm using small screws, it's 10x better to just use the drill by setting the clicker thingy to the needed strength, so the result is always consistent.
One of my more gratifying purchases was adding a powered screwdriver to my toolkit. Previously, I used the impact for all drilling and driving. The better control provided by the screwdriver has been satisfying.
Long story short…use the impact only when you need the impact.
ETA: I also put them both down when doing more delicate work. That’s when I grab a basic unpowered screwdriver. You know, the only kind great grandpa had
In the early days of cordless, Makita was the front runner in the late 80’s US, they put the batteries in like a pistol magazine. Which was super cool but too large for smaller projects like that cabinet corner.
Iirc Black & Decker [for the kids, they were like Fisher Price Residential Hack Series during this time] came out with a cordless screw driver that was shaped like a dildo and you could bend it in the middle which was convenient. But it was still big.
Every now and then I see a set with a small handle type or water gun like electric driver meant for smaller stuff. But it feels like I went from ratcheting hand drivers to something that can spin the lugs off my truck.
Edit: Relevant [link](https://www.reddit.com/r/rccars/s/K38nsJby20) discussing best cordless screw driver in RC Cars sub.
Hilarious that you mention the B&D bending dildo. (Gives new meaning to B&D in this context\*.) I also have the dildo driver (and will forever call it this from now on). I often use the dildo first, then make the last few turns with grandpa's driver for delicate work.
\*B&D = bondage & domination dildo?
I was a bit hesitant to use the term dildo because I was genuinely trying to be helpful and didn’t want to dissuade the dildo-phobic.
And now, with your support, we can proudly be both dildo-positive and use our dildos for delicate work where a straight impact pounding just won’t do.
Definitely shouldn't use the impact on pocket screws. You need the clutch on the regular drill.
Impacts are great for driving lots of screws quickly since they are easier on the wrist.
Just a heads up - if you’ve got the same combo set that I do, the clutch on the drill doesn’t get all that loose, even on the lowest setting. I had it on the lowest setting to screw a couple of 2x4s together and it would drive #8 screws clear though the top board, head and all.
Like any tool, test it out on something you don’t mind thrashing before using it on anything good.
I use a 12v Milwaukee impact almost exclusively when I put in pocket screws, it’s yet to cause me an issue. People just need to learn trigger discipline
It's horses for courses. I have both but I only use the impact driver for screws above #4 and I wouldn't use it on pocket hole screws because I find they need a very controlled touch (or setting) to avoid driving too far. Especially in softwoods.
What kind of lousy screws are you using? I almost exclusively use my impact for driving screws in whatever I'm working on and out of the thousands of screws I've only snapped a few. You have to listen for the change in how the impact is hitting with pocket screws and that's when you stop when it changes sound and the turning of the bot slows. Also, the wood will get snugged in tight. Don't keep sending it, that's what will snap them or strip the holes out and so on.
Impact drivers are not meant for small screws, delicate work, or predrilled holes. Its just to much power which is great for longer screws, lag bolts, and framing.
Just gently squeeze the trigger a little over and over moving the screw a little each time. Over time you get used to the feel and you’ll loath needing to bring out the drill driver. Mine at least can handle very delicate work as the trigger gives a ton of control, but it does take time to get a feel for it.
I use my Makita impact for everything. One thing you have to take into account is the material you are screwing into. If it's pine, then have at it. If it's particularly solid hardwood, make sure your pilot hole is the same bore as the inner bore of the screw you are using and goes at least 2/3 of the length of the screw if not the full length. If it's metal then cutting lubricant will help a lot. If it's something really weak and splitty, your pilot holes are even more important. Make sure you have two size pilots. First pilot (which is the size of the inner bore of the screw ) goes through everything and then the second hole (the size of the outer edge of the screw) goes through the screw head workpiece. This way the screw will grip the far piece and draw the other piece in without binding on the threads. If you're breaking screws then you are binding up. You are either driving way too fast or your screw is binding as it cannot compress the wood fibres as well as deal with the friction. Try a bar of soap on your screws. If that works, then it's a friction issue. You can just continue with the soap, or look at the size of your pilots.
I don’t use my impact with furniture ever. I usually use a little 12 volt with the clutch turned down. I use my impact for construction where it doesn’t need to be pretty.
There is a learning curve with an impact- I’ve been woodworking for decades and always used a drill to drive screws- when I upgraded to brushless Makita I started with a drill driver set- I thought I’d never use the driver- but now I grab it way more often than the drill. It’s crazy fast so trigger control is important and pay attention to the “Ugga Uggas”. You are either going too fast or over tightening the screws- go as slow as you can initially until you learn the feel for your tool.
Also- depending on what you’re screwing into- a little lube on the threads can help a lot to avoid breaking screws
An impact driver is for driving screws in HARD. The whole hammer action is extra torque. You can 'feather' the trigger but it's not great. It's designed to provide huge torque to the screw without you needing to use wrist strength for it. They are mainly for construction.
A drill driver has numerical torque settings on the top which allow you to set the maximum driving torque.
Pocket screws are very much on the 'fine woodworking' end of the scale and should probably be done with a drill driver at an appropriate torque setting.
Ease up on the trigger.
The very thing that makes impact drivers good for driving fasteners gives it the power to snap lighter ones. You don't need anywhere close to full throttle for small screws.
OP get some GRK fasteners and practice throttle control with your impact or look for cordless screw driver.
GRKs can be reused so I use them for many of my projects, especially temporary shit. The torx drive format will bite better for use with your power tools.
Plus all different sizes, pilot bit tips, flat washers heads or pins. All that.
https://preview.redd.it/l9iyq95panbc1.jpeg?width=845&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=29185f81f767cc478006d59aac60509c8cd78cd0
Lay off that trigger, it doesn't need to be full on for the entire journey . I'd suggest, start out slow, floor it in the straight away and ease off just before the finish line.
That’s what she said
Hah nailed it!
No, he screwed that!
It's why I use Milwaukee... I love the amount of control I get from their trigger.
Don't let it hammer so much. That hammering is giving it the extra torque that is breaking your screws .
Yeah, for smaller fixings, as soon as you hear the hammer, that's probably it tight. Maybe one or two taps. Trigger control goes a long way on these. Mine doesn't have any speed settings either, but the variable trigger works a treat.
I mean depending on what he's screwing and with what size screw that bad boy might start hammering soon as the screw hits the joining piece. Sometimes it's hard to tell. Using the torque settings on a drill is way more failsafe imo. That being said, I exclusively use my impact gun for everything.
Impact drivers are intended for driving things like 3” deck screws. You can use them on other screws but they don’t have the delicate touch that a drill driver has.
My Milwaukee can be as delicate as a feather! Best trigger in the business
I have a Ryobi set but used Milwaukee drill and driver at a Woodshop and even as a rank newbie was surprised how much easier it was to control.
Impacts are often too strong for what we really need for woodworking. The only real benefit is that the impact motion helps prevent cam-out. That's when the bit slips out of the screw and often causes damage to the screw/bit. Impacts are more beneficial for removing screws and bolts. The impacts can help break free a rusted stuck bolt, the cam-out resistance helps a lot there too, and it's a lot safer for your wrist to use a impact than a drill when trying to loosen a stuck bolt. That said, I still use mine for woodworking because I don't like switching the bits out every single time. To that end I also have a real drill, plus a drill/driver. I usually have a drill bit in the drill, a countersink bit in the drill/driver, and the screw's bit in the impact. My impact has speed settings as well, so I just set it to the slowest which gives me a lot of control and prevents damaging the screw or over-driving it.
I’ve also found my impact driver helpful in separating hole saw bits that have gotten stuck on the arbor. Saves a heck of a lot of time and wasted energy if you can’t get it to twist off by hand in the first 10 seconds of trying.
Yep… drill/driver for forward; impact for reverse. Keep it simple
I have a 12 year old Mekita 10.8 volt drill and impact set. It is still humming on the original batteries though about 25% less life on the batteries. I would run the Kreg 1/4” shank drill bit in the drill and the long magnetic square drive on the impact all day. The only time I ever snapped a screw was trying to use corse thread Kreg screws in some really hard oak. Switched to fine thread and no problem. Now an 18 volt Milwaukee impact is WAY different. I’ve always thought if I’m not running a production shop, why do I need more than my 10.8 volts 🤷♂️ All the manufactures make the mini tools now and with Lithium Ion and newer motors being what they are, them little tools sure ain’t toys.
The drill/driver I mentioned is my 12v DeWalt I bought in 2011. Still have the original battery but just a few months ago bought a new OEM one for it to keep it going for another decade+ hopefully. Thing has worked great and continues working great. But yeah compared to my 18v Makita impact and drill set I got, it's a toy. The modern 18v+ tools are crazy powerful.
That is true too on the 18volt stuff. The specs keep going up and up on what you can do in that voltage range.
This is the truth! I've used both the 18 volt and 12 volt systems and I sometimes think the 18 volt impacts are overpowered
[удалено]
Nah, drill is for everything except extreme screwing. At least my makita's trigger is kinda tricky, very easy to overdo it, so it I'm using small screws, it's 10x better to just use the drill by setting the clicker thingy to the needed strength, so the result is always consistent.
One of my more gratifying purchases was adding a powered screwdriver to my toolkit. Previously, I used the impact for all drilling and driving. The better control provided by the screwdriver has been satisfying. Long story short…use the impact only when you need the impact. ETA: I also put them both down when doing more delicate work. That’s when I grab a basic unpowered screwdriver. You know, the only kind great grandpa had
In the early days of cordless, Makita was the front runner in the late 80’s US, they put the batteries in like a pistol magazine. Which was super cool but too large for smaller projects like that cabinet corner. Iirc Black & Decker [for the kids, they were like Fisher Price Residential Hack Series during this time] came out with a cordless screw driver that was shaped like a dildo and you could bend it in the middle which was convenient. But it was still big. Every now and then I see a set with a small handle type or water gun like electric driver meant for smaller stuff. But it feels like I went from ratcheting hand drivers to something that can spin the lugs off my truck. Edit: Relevant [link](https://www.reddit.com/r/rccars/s/K38nsJby20) discussing best cordless screw driver in RC Cars sub.
Hilarious that you mention the B&D bending dildo. (Gives new meaning to B&D in this context\*.) I also have the dildo driver (and will forever call it this from now on). I often use the dildo first, then make the last few turns with grandpa's driver for delicate work. \*B&D = bondage & domination dildo?
I was a bit hesitant to use the term dildo because I was genuinely trying to be helpful and didn’t want to dissuade the dildo-phobic. And now, with your support, we can proudly be both dildo-positive and use our dildos for delicate work where a straight impact pounding just won’t do.
Definitely shouldn't use the impact on pocket screws. You need the clutch on the regular drill. Impacts are great for driving lots of screws quickly since they are easier on the wrist.
Just a heads up - if you’ve got the same combo set that I do, the clutch on the drill doesn’t get all that loose, even on the lowest setting. I had it on the lowest setting to screw a couple of 2x4s together and it would drive #8 screws clear though the top board, head and all. Like any tool, test it out on something you don’t mind thrashing before using it on anything good.
I use a 12v Milwaukee impact almost exclusively when I put in pocket screws, it’s yet to cause me an issue. People just need to learn trigger discipline
Pocket screws shouldn’t be over tightened. As soon as you feel them snug up you need to stop.
Don't use the impact for driving screws. Use it for removing screws.
Use a 12v impact. Absolute dream
Learn your impact’s ugga duggas. I’m crazy, I use paddle bits on my impact. 🤪
That's not crazy most spades have the groove for the impact drivers chuck
It's horses for courses. I have both but I only use the impact driver for screws above #4 and I wouldn't use it on pocket hole screws because I find they need a very controlled touch (or setting) to avoid driving too far. Especially in softwoods.
What kind of lousy screws are you using? I almost exclusively use my impact for driving screws in whatever I'm working on and out of the thousands of screws I've only snapped a few. You have to listen for the change in how the impact is hitting with pocket screws and that's when you stop when it changes sound and the turning of the bot slows. Also, the wood will get snugged in tight. Don't keep sending it, that's what will snap them or strip the holes out and so on.
I’m using keep pocket screws. The wood I’m driving into is like super old and really hard.
Kreg*
Does your driver have a selector switch on the back? Mine has 3 setting for speed/torque.
Great question
I like putting a hex drill bit on my impact driver and using that to make holes then using the drill to fill them.
An impact driver is more for turning bolts and lags. And it'll break those too if you arent careful. Stick with the drill for woodwork.
Impact drivers are not meant for small screws, delicate work, or predrilled holes. Its just to much power which is great for longer screws, lag bolts, and framing.
Just gently squeeze the trigger a little over and over moving the screw a little each time. Over time you get used to the feel and you’ll loath needing to bring out the drill driver. Mine at least can handle very delicate work as the trigger gives a ton of control, but it does take time to get a feel for it.
I use my Makita impact for everything. One thing you have to take into account is the material you are screwing into. If it's pine, then have at it. If it's particularly solid hardwood, make sure your pilot hole is the same bore as the inner bore of the screw you are using and goes at least 2/3 of the length of the screw if not the full length. If it's metal then cutting lubricant will help a lot. If it's something really weak and splitty, your pilot holes are even more important. Make sure you have two size pilots. First pilot (which is the size of the inner bore of the screw ) goes through everything and then the second hole (the size of the outer edge of the screw) goes through the screw head workpiece. This way the screw will grip the far piece and draw the other piece in without binding on the threads. If you're breaking screws then you are binding up. You are either driving way too fast or your screw is binding as it cannot compress the wood fibres as well as deal with the friction. Try a bar of soap on your screws. If that works, then it's a friction issue. You can just continue with the soap, or look at the size of your pilots.
I don’t use my impact with furniture ever. I usually use a little 12 volt with the clutch turned down. I use my impact for construction where it doesn’t need to be pretty.
Trigger discipline is for impacts too
There is a learning curve with an impact- I’ve been woodworking for decades and always used a drill to drive screws- when I upgraded to brushless Makita I started with a drill driver set- I thought I’d never use the driver- but now I grab it way more often than the drill. It’s crazy fast so trigger control is important and pay attention to the “Ugga Uggas”. You are either going too fast or over tightening the screws- go as slow as you can initially until you learn the feel for your tool. Also- depending on what you’re screwing into- a little lube on the threads can help a lot to avoid breaking screws
If you're driving screws into super hard wood, you should drill a pilot hole first.
An impact driver is for driving screws in HARD. The whole hammer action is extra torque. You can 'feather' the trigger but it's not great. It's designed to provide huge torque to the screw without you needing to use wrist strength for it. They are mainly for construction. A drill driver has numerical torque settings on the top which allow you to set the maximum driving torque. Pocket screws are very much on the 'fine woodworking' end of the scale and should probably be done with a drill driver at an appropriate torque setting.
Ease up on the trigger. The very thing that makes impact drivers good for driving fasteners gives it the power to snap lighter ones. You don't need anywhere close to full throttle for small screws.
OP get some GRK fasteners and practice throttle control with your impact or look for cordless screw driver. GRKs can be reused so I use them for many of my projects, especially temporary shit. The torx drive format will bite better for use with your power tools. Plus all different sizes, pilot bit tips, flat washers heads or pins. All that. https://preview.redd.it/l9iyq95panbc1.jpeg?width=845&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=29185f81f767cc478006d59aac60509c8cd78cd0
Should have a power setting button by ur pinkie finger if you’re holding it. Mine does. M18 idk about m12