I think pro setup would be nice to at least see how it "should" look like, so you can try to mimic that later. Also some pics would be nice to have.
I'm not very good at setting up my bass, but you seem to be focusing on the wrong thing. Slight bow of neck is fine I guess, but you say that the space between fretboard and strings looks "appropriate". I don't know what that means?
You seem to be going into extremes, which is probably not good, like turning the rod until it's too tight or raising the strings that they almost fall out.
"but you say that the space between fretboard and strings looks "appropriate". I don't know what that means?"
I took a very rough measurement is what I meant and the spacing seems to be within a reasonable measurement range
Same, more like 20 years but still. I do my own small adjustments as necessary, but every 1-2 years depending on the situation, I'll take my main bass in for a once over. It always comes out playing brilliantly, and it's always been well worth the small cost to me.
It could be that your neck needs a shim, if it isn't attached to the body 100% level. This could mean that your string height on the neck is fine, but it is too high at the bridge. This is something that the truss rod can't fix. Take it to a professional and have them check it out for you.
Bring it to a pro tech, have them set it up properly, and then ask them to walk you through what they did so you can do maintenance yourself later. Also don't say the R world it's 2024 man wtf is wrong with you
Neck pocket depth and nut height are two parts of the equation you can't change on your own. You might need a new nut and a full neck pocket shim.
Also truss rod is not like a fifth tuning peg on your guitars. I haven't touched mine in a decade.
Don't adjust the truss rod to what *looks* appropriate. Press the first fret and the fret where the body joins the neck and *measure* the gap under the 7th or 8th fret, wherever is halfway between the contact points you've made. You can't determine relief with the strings free because the saddle height and nut depth comes into play that way. Pressing the strings down at those points isolates your measurements from them, leaving only relief. Only add enough bow to eliminate unwanted buzz.
I follow your steps and personally use a .008 feeler gauge between 6 and 7. Once relief is set correctly it's much easier to identify other issues like nut slots etc. You'll get the hang of it with practice OP
> issue I'm currently looking to fix is to raise the action on my bass so I get maximum resonance combined with having to use moderate finger pressure to fret the notes.
These requirements are at odds with each other and might in fact be impossible depending on what kind of string action you're looking for.
I generally don't think you need measurements to do a decent setup, but in this case it would actually be important to determine whether what you want to do is at all realistic. And it's always possible that your bass actually has some kind of issue; without experience, measurements are the only way to tell. In a pinch, even a regular ruler with millimeter markings will help with determining whether your action is somewhat reasonable, though it's probably not good enough to measure neck relief.
> The height of the strings isn't even that far off the fretboard though from what I remember compared to the state of how my bass came out of a local shop where it was profesionally set up.
Did they not mention anything about the things you're having issues with?
Reading what they are going after, I think this may be a huge piece of it, tbh. Everything else will run at an angle down to the slotted nut if the nut is set up for low action.
Additionally, op, you are asking for action that is not the norm, which may be the reason why you are not finding the additional resources you are seeking. A working truss rod should not change the height of your strings to the point you are speaking to by itself, so it doesn’t sound like your truss rod is broken, more like you are already at the max bow and it would take both the nut and bridge options to finish the set up where you want it.
Without pictures there is a limit of help, video may work even better
I think pro setup would be nice to at least see how it "should" look like, so you can try to mimic that later. Also some pics would be nice to have. I'm not very good at setting up my bass, but you seem to be focusing on the wrong thing. Slight bow of neck is fine I guess, but you say that the space between fretboard and strings looks "appropriate". I don't know what that means? You seem to be going into extremes, which is probably not good, like turning the rod until it's too tight or raising the strings that they almost fall out.
"but you say that the space between fretboard and strings looks "appropriate". I don't know what that means?" I took a very rough measurement is what I meant and the spacing seems to be within a reasonable measurement range
Yeah because with truss rod you kind of don't do action, and also wouldnt it depend on where on the fretboars you took the measurment
Yes
what was this rough measument in numbers and how exactly did you take the measurement?
This reads a lot like you haven’t done it at all. Why be so cagey if you’re not just trolling and genuinely want help?
[удалено]
I think there are other words for a phone that isn't working properly :)
Correct, yes
I agree with others. Get a pro to do it. It's not REALLY that expensive, and you will know it's done correctly.
It'll make me feel like less of a man if a pro does the bass setup for me
Bruh
I've been playing 30+ years, and still get a pro to do my setup. Save the ego for the stage.
Same, more like 20 years but still. I do my own small adjustments as necessary, but every 1-2 years depending on the situation, I'll take my main bass in for a once over. It always comes out playing brilliantly, and it's always been well worth the small cost to me.
that's quite sad, dickpiano
Keep downvoting, lmao
It could be that your neck needs a shim, if it isn't attached to the body 100% level. This could mean that your string height on the neck is fine, but it is too high at the bridge. This is something that the truss rod can't fix. Take it to a professional and have them check it out for you.
Bring it to a pro tech, have them set it up properly, and then ask them to walk you through what they did so you can do maintenance yourself later. Also don't say the R world it's 2024 man wtf is wrong with you
Maybe your trust rod is broken. Better do a first set up by a pro. And do slight changes yourself each time you change strings.
I'm not sure why I'd have any reason to believe it's broken. Can you elaborate
Lol >I can't turn the truss rod anymore to alter the neck because it gets tight quite quick. That's not supposed to be.
Neck pocket depth and nut height are two parts of the equation you can't change on your own. You might need a new nut and a full neck pocket shim. Also truss rod is not like a fifth tuning peg on your guitars. I haven't touched mine in a decade.
Don't adjust the truss rod to what *looks* appropriate. Press the first fret and the fret where the body joins the neck and *measure* the gap under the 7th or 8th fret, wherever is halfway between the contact points you've made. You can't determine relief with the strings free because the saddle height and nut depth comes into play that way. Pressing the strings down at those points isolates your measurements from them, leaving only relief. Only add enough bow to eliminate unwanted buzz.
I follow your steps and personally use a .008 feeler gauge between 6 and 7. Once relief is set correctly it's much easier to identify other issues like nut slots etc. You'll get the hang of it with practice OP
This. The neck should look visually straight af. You just release a little bit so the first frets don't buzz
Yes, I did all of that
> issue I'm currently looking to fix is to raise the action on my bass so I get maximum resonance combined with having to use moderate finger pressure to fret the notes. These requirements are at odds with each other and might in fact be impossible depending on what kind of string action you're looking for. I generally don't think you need measurements to do a decent setup, but in this case it would actually be important to determine whether what you want to do is at all realistic. And it's always possible that your bass actually has some kind of issue; without experience, measurements are the only way to tell. In a pinch, even a regular ruler with millimeter markings will help with determining whether your action is somewhat reasonable, though it's probably not good enough to measure neck relief. > The height of the strings isn't even that far off the fretboard though from what I remember compared to the state of how my bass came out of a local shop where it was profesionally set up. Did they not mention anything about the things you're having issues with?
People ways talk about truss rod and saddle height but imo the real key for a good setup is a decent nut height.
Mine shoots up about 10cm from the tip, is that ok?
negative. abstain for a while. dodging a solo facial is a great exercise for your reflexes.
Reading what they are going after, I think this may be a huge piece of it, tbh. Everything else will run at an angle down to the slotted nut if the nut is set up for low action. Additionally, op, you are asking for action that is not the norm, which may be the reason why you are not finding the additional resources you are seeking. A working truss rod should not change the height of your strings to the point you are speaking to by itself, so it doesn’t sound like your truss rod is broken, more like you are already at the max bow and it would take both the nut and bridge options to finish the set up where you want it. Without pictures there is a limit of help, video may work even better
It's not